lliaMMIMIltllllUl l lf i tMri i WBIIMffi ^^ 





■HHMMHMMM 





Class 


I JLiOg 


Book 


.Bib 


CopyrightN' 


► 


COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 



ASK ME << ^ ^ << 

FOR EVERYTHING 

A WOMAN'S ENCYCLOPEDIA 

AND 

HOUSEHOLD MANUAL 
Consisting of Useful Information Concerning: 

Food, Household, the Toilet, Laundry, Clothing, 
Children's Care, Medical, Needletvork, Edu- 
cation, Etiquette, Floriculture, Domestic 
Fets, Latv, Sports, Art, Games, 
Dances, etc., etc. 

GLEANED FROM THE FOUR QUARTERS OF THE GLOBE 

BY 

SARA DAMSEAUX 



THE 

Mhhcy IPress 

PUBLISHERS 

114 

FIFTH AVENUE 

Condon NEW YORK montreal 



THE LIBRARY OF 
CONGRESS, 

Two Copies Received 

APR 11 '903 

Copyright Entry 
CLASS ^ XXc. No. 

s ^ xz s 

COPY B. 



Copyright, 1903 

by 

THE 

ABBEY PRESS. 






^ 



TABLE OF CONTENTS 



PAGE 

Animals, Bikds, Domestic Pets 166 

Art 300 

Card Games 313 

Clothing and its Care 89 

Culinary Hints 39 

Dances, Figures and Steps 318 

Education 184 

Etiquette 175 

Floriculture and Gardening 170 

Food , , 1 

Games 304 

General Information 194 

Household 53 

Laundry Work 98 

Law 193 

Maladies and Their Treatment 153 

Medical Information 137 

Medicines and Their Properties 139 

Needlework and Fancy-work 104 

Nursery, Children's Care 117' 

Pantry 43 

Physical Culture 182 

Sports 308: 

Toilet Hints 75. 



PREFACE. 

How many valuable suggestions and ideas are daily being read, 
then thrown aside and seldom thought of again until the occasion 
calls for their use ? I have, therefore, deemed it a necessity to ac- 
cumulate and publish a collection of instructive and interesting 
material that will appeal to every woman, and every woman will 
surely recommend the book to her friends. 

This work contains valuable information selected from the very 
highest authorities on all matters pertaining to the household, toilet, 
hygiene, nursery, amusement, art, culture and education, and can 
be used as a daily reference in every home. 

It will be of inestimable service to the mother, the housewife and 
the nurse, for in one small compact volume will be found all that 
belongs to her sphere, be it in sickness or in health. 

This is no cook-book, for almost every family possesses one or 
more, but the Culinary Dictionary and other useful information in 
the food section will be most welcome to all good housekeepers. 

In every family a medical treatise is a necessity when sudden and 
unexpected sickness visits one's home. The information found 
herein is not only trustworthy, but indispensable. 

The needlework part treats of all that is most novel in ladies' 
handiwork. 

The art contains the newest ideas in photography, painting, etc. 

The toilet is all that is needed for the enhancement of woman's 
beauty. 

The etiquette and educational information will be of great service 
to ladies who wish to learn all that is correct in these branches, 
and are loth to consult larger and more cumbersome books. 



iV PREFACE. 

Every up-to-date fad can be found within these pages, including 
golf, tennis, bicycling, graphology, palmistry, gardening, physical 
culture, games, etc. 

I must thank the many authors whom I have been compelled to 
consult in order to have my work complete. 

In conclusion, I beg of my readers that when in need of any in- 
formation to kindly open these pages and "ask me for everything,'* 
and the inexhaustible index will help to show them precisely where 
to find it. S. D. 



FOOD 



Culinary Dictionary 



ABATIS.— Giblets. 

A LA.— The style of. (A la Fraagaise 
— French style.) 

A LA MODE.— In the style of. (A la 
mode de Paris — in the style of Paris.) 

ALLEMANDE. — A rich white sauce 
or stock. 

APPETISANS. — Appetizers. Small 
appetizing dishes served before and dur- 
ing the dinner, to stimulate the appetite. 

ASPIC. — A seasoned meat jelly, used 
principally for decorating. 

ASSIETTE.— A plate. Fruits, nuts, 
cheese or crackers served on a plate are 
called "assiettes." 

ATELETS, OR HATELETS.— Small, 
ornamental skewers used for decorating. 

AU. — To it, when that which follows 
means one thing, as "au supreme." 

AUX.— To it, when that which fol- 
lows means several things, as "aux 
pommes," meaning several apples. 

— B— 

BABA. — An exceedingly light cake 
made with yeast. 

BAIN-MARIE. — A large open pan 
filled with boiling water, in which smaller 
pans containing sauces, etc., are placed to 
keep them almost at boiling point. 

TO BARD.— To cover the breasts of 
game or poultry with a thin slice of fat 
bacon, so as to keep it moist. 

BATTBRIE DE CUISINE.— A full 
set of kitchen utensils. 

BAVAROISE.— Very rich kind of 
creams, usually made from a custard. 

BECHAMEL. — A white sauce made 
with milk. 

BEEF A LA MODE.— A piece of beef 
cooked till tender, with vegetables and 
gravy, 

BEIGNETS.— Fritters. 

TO BIND. — Is to mix sufficient thick- 
ening with the whole to keep the different 
ingredients together. 1 



BISQUE.— A thick soup, generally- 
made of shellfish. 

BISQUE ICE CREAM, or biscuit ices, 
have a paste of nuts or fruits mixed witk 
the cream. 

TO BLANCH.— To put anything into a 
saucepan with cold water, bring it to the 
boil, then strain off the water. Usually 
done to remove some particular flavor or 
to assist in cleaning it. 

BLANC MANGE.— A white, cold des- 
sert, made in various ways. 

BLANQUETTE.— A white stew of 
veal, chicken or fish. 

_ AU BLEU.— Term used for fish boiled 
m wme and water and flavored with 
herbs. 

BONDONS.— Cylindrical moulds filled 
with various forcemeats, served as hot 
hors d'oeuvre. 

TO BONE.— To take out all the bones 
of fish, fowl, etc. 

BORDERS.— Ornamental designs of 
potato, paste, rice, forcemeat, etc., placed 
around the dish to improve the appearance 
and increase the bulk. 

BORDURE.— French for border. 
BOUCHEES.— Small puff paste patties 
filled with a stew of fish, meat or fruit. 
BOUDINS.— Black blood sausages. 

BOUILLABAISSE.— A stew of many- 
kinds of fish. 

BOUILLIE. — Beef or other meat boiled 
plain. 

BOUILLON.— A thin soup or broth. 

BOUQUET GARNI.— A bunch of herbs 
tied together, consisting of parsley, thyme, 
bayleaf, marjoram, etc.; placed in some 
soups, stews and sauces to impart a pe- 
culiar flavor, and removed before serv- 
ing. 

TO BRAISE.— To stew meat, poultry 
or other article on a layer of vegetables 
with very little liquid, in a stewpan hav- 
ing a closely fitted cover. 

BRAISIERE.— The French for a brais- 
ing pan. 



A DESSERTSPOONFUL IS TWO FLUID DRACHMS. 



BRAISING PAN. — A stewpan made 
specially for braising, having a sunken 
lid in which hot ashes may be placed. 

TO BREAD. — To cover with bread 
crumbs and egg, or flour, or cracker dust, 
previous to frying. 

BREAD RASPINGS.— Grated and 
pounded bread crumbs. The brown is 
made with the crust, and the white with 
stale crumbs. 

TO BREAK FLOUR.— Is to mix a 
very small quantity of cold liquid gradu- 
ally into the flour, stirring till it is quite 
smooth. 

BRESSOLES,— A stew, specially of 
veal. 

BRIDER. — To pass a string through 
the members of poultry, game, etc., in or- 
der to keep them in place. 

BRINE. — Salted water containing salt- 
petre, used for salting meats, etc, 

BRIOCHE. — A light breakfast cake, 
made with yeast, eaten hot or cold, plain 
or with butter. 

BROCHETTE. — ^To string on skewers 
before cooking. 

TO BROWN MEAT. — Is when frying 
it, not to turn till one side is browned. 

BUISSON.— A pyramid, generally of 
lobsters or crawfish. 

— C— 

CAFE NOIR. — Black coffee. 

CALIPASH. — The glutinous meat found 
in the upper shell of the turtle. 

CALIPEE.— The glutinous meat fonnd 
in the under shell of the turtle. This is 
more delicate than the other, and requires 
very little cooking. 

CANAPES. — Pieces of buttered and 
fried or toasted bread, of various shapes, 
on which are served small birds or hors 
d'oeuvre. 

CANNELONS. — A tube shape of paste 
filled with meats or sweets. 

CAPON. — A castrated cock. 

CARAMEL. — Burnt sugar, used for 
coloring brown. 

CASSEROLE.— A stewpan. Also a 
shape made of rice or other material, to 
be filled with a rich stew or puree. 

CAVIAR. — Salted roe of sturgeon. 

CHARLOTTE.— A shape made of slices 
of bread or cake, filled with a compote of 
fruits. 

CHARLOTTE RUSSE. — Means a 
Russian custard. 

CHATEAUBRIAND.— The piece of 
meat taken from the inside of a large 
tenderloin. 



CHAUDFROID.— Cold meats or fish 
covered with a rich, thick, gelatinous 
sauce. 

TO CLARIFY.— To clear a liquid with 
white of egg or chopped beef. 

TO CLARIFY BUTTER.— To melt the 
butter, then using the upper part only, 
leaving the sediment. 

CLOUTER.— To insert or stud with 
nail-shaped pieces of truffle, tongue, etc., 
either meat or poultry. 

COMPOTE. — A fruit, game or pigeon 
stew preserved in jelly. 

COMPOTE OF FRUITS.— Stewed 
fruits. 

CONFITURE.— Preserves. 

CONGER-EEL.— A large sea eel. 

CONSOMME.— Rich, clear soup. 

CONSOMME DB VOLAILLE.— Rich 
chicken broth. 

TO CORE.— To remove the heart of a 
fruit. 

CORER.— The utensil used for coring. 

COULIS. — A rich brown gravy used 
for coloring. 

COUVERT.— Th? plate, knife, fork, 
spoon and glass. 

CRAWFISH, OR CRAYFISH. — A 
fresh water fish resembling the lobster, 
only much smaller. They are considered 
quite a delicacy, and are much finer in 
Europe than in this country, where they 
are very little used. 

CREAMS. — Sweets made principally of 
milk and eggs. 

TO CREAM.— To beat two articles, as 
butter and sugar together to a cream. 

CREOLE. — A term used for Southern 
cookery. 

CROMESQUIS.— «alpicons wrapped 
in veal udder or bacon and then fried. 
Also called kromesquis. 

CROQUETTES. — A ball or cork shape 
of rice, minced meat, potato, etc., fried 
in fat. 

CROUSTADES.— Oval shaped slices 
of bread scooped out and filled with 
meats, etc. 

CROUTONS.— Fried sippets of breads. 
CRUSTS. — Fried bread of various 
sizes and shape, used for decorating. 

CUISINE.— The kitchen or the cook- 
ing. 

CURRY. — An East Indian condiment 
used for imparting a peculiar pungent 
taste to chicken and rice and other dishes. 

— D— 

DARIOLES. — Small round bottomed 

moulds. 



A TABLESPOONFUL IS ABOUT HALF A FLUID OUNCE. 



DARNB. — A large slice of salmon, 
etc. 

DAUBES. — Meat or fowl stewed in a 
special way with a sauce. 

DAUBIERB. — An oval stewpan in 
which daubes are cooked. 

TO DECORATE. — To ornament a 
dish in order to improve its looks. 

DEJEUNER A LA FOURCHETTE. 
— The midday meal or luncheon. 

DBSOSSER.— To bone or take out the 
bones of fish, etc. 

TO DESPUMATE.— To skim off the 
impurities from a liquid that is simmering 
gently. 

TO DEVIL. — Broils or grills highly 
seasoned with mustard and red pepper. 

DOMESTIC— Native or tame. 

TO DREDGE. — To sift over or strew 
with. 

TO DRESS. — To arrange meats, etc., 
on a dish in order to serve them. 

— E— 

ENTRE-COTE.— Choice middle ribs of 
beef. 

ENTREES. — A course of small meats, 
made dishes, etc. 

ENTREMETS.— Dishes of sweets, 
such as puddings. 

BPICES.— Spices. 

EPICURE.— One fond of good living. 

BPIGRAMMBS.— Breasts of lamb or 
mutton cooked in a certain way. 

ESOALOPS. — Small round thin pieces 
of meat or fish beaten to make tender. 

ESCARGOTS.— Snails. 

ESPAGNOLE. — A sauce, also a rich 
stock made of reduced meat and vege- 
tables. 

ESSENCE.— A preparation of the ac- 
tive portion of a substance, prepared by 
powdering, bruising or slicing solid in- 
gredients so as to expose them completely 
to the action of the spirit. 

ESSENCE OF MEAT.— An extract 
from the most nutritive parts of meat. 

EXTRACT.— Preparations of vegetable 
or other juices obtained by decoction, ma- 
ceration or infusion, and then reduced to a 
solid or semi-solid consistence. The terms 
simple or compound distinguish whether 
one or more substances have been ex- 
tracted. 

EXTRACT OF MEAT.— The same as 
an essence of meat. 

_F— 
FARCE. — Forcemeat. 
FEUILLETAGE.— PufE paste. 



FILLETS. — A large slice of meat. A 
fillet of veal is a part taken from the 
leg. Chicken fillets are the large breasts 
of the fowl. 

TO FILLET.— To lard with red beef 
tongue, fat bacon, etc. 

FILLET MINIONS.— A small slice 
of the breast, lying under the large fillets, 
close to the bone. 

FINES HERBES.— Fine fresh herbs 
consisting of parsley, shallot, chervil, 
chives, tarragon, etc. 

FLAMBER.— To singe. 

FOIES-GRAS.— Fat livers of ducks 
and geese. 

PATE DE FOIES-GRAS.— A potted 
meat made in Alsace, Germany, of goose 
livers fattened while alive, then mixed 
with truffles and forcemeat. Considered 
a great delicacy. 

FONCER.— To line the bottom of a 
saucepan with slices of veal, ham, bacon, 
onions or carrot. 

FONDANT. — A sweet preparation 
for making candies. 

FONDUE. — Certain dishes prepared 
with cheese. 

FORCEMEAT.— Chopped and pound- 
ed meats used for filling, stuflBng, etc. 

FRANGIPANI.— A cream made with 
eggs, etc., used for filling cakes or tarts. 
Also a perfume. 

FRAPPE.— Iced or chilled, by pound- 
ed ice. 

FRICANDEAU.— Stewed or braised 
larded veal. 

FRICASSEE.— A white stew of veal, 
chicken, fish, etc. 

FRITOT.— A dish of fried chicken, 
fish, etc. 

FROMAGE.— Cheese. 

AUX FRUITS.— With fruits. 

FUMET, or flavor, is a steam arising 
from raw or cooked meats imparting an 
agreeable smell and taste; less watery 
than essence. 

— G— 

GALANTINE. — Boned meat, fowl, 
game or fish boiled, and served cold gar- 
nished with aspic jelly. 

GALETTB. — A broad, thin cake used 
for dessert. 

GARNISH. — To decorate a dish or its 
contents. 

GARNISHINGS.— Additions made to 
a dish either to improve its appearance 
or its bulk. 

GATEAU. — A cake, pudding or tart. 

GELATINE. — Transparent glue made 



A TUB OF BUTTER IS 84 LBS., A FIRKIN 56 LBS. 



of fish or calves' feet, for making jellies, 
creams, etc. 

GIBELOTTB. — A certain way of 
stewing rabbit or hare. 

GIGOT DE MOUTON.— A leg of 
mutton. 

GLACE. — To cover hot meats with a 
thick, rich glaze. 

GLACER. — In confectionery it means 
to candy the fruits with sugar to give 
them a sparkling appearance. 

GLAZE. — Gravies boiled down to a 
thick consistence. 

GODIVEAU.— A fine forcemeat made 
with white meats. 

AU GRAS. — Cooked with meat or fat. 

GRAS-DOUBLE.— Tripe. 

GREASE A DISH.— Rub soft fat or 
butter over it to prevent the contents 
from sticking. Use the fingers or a 
piece of paper to do this with. 

GRILL, — To broil over an open fire. 

— H— 

HARICOTS.— Beans. 

HARICOT DE MOUTON.— A mutton 
stew. 

HEAD CHEESE.— Pig's head pressed 
and .seasoned. 

HORS D'OEUVRE.— Small dishes laid 
on the table containing appetizers, such as 
olives, radishes, salted almonds, anchovies 
or similar relishes. 

HOT HORS D'OEUVRE.— Small hot 
dishes such as croquettes, cannelons, riso- 
lettes, timbales, etc., served after the fish. 

— I- 

ICED.— Frozen or chilled. 

ICING. — To cover cakes with whipped 
egg whites, sugar, flavoring or other in- 
gredients. 

INCISIONS.— Cuts made either in 
meats or fish to insert lardings or season- 
ings. 

— J— 

JUGGED. — A very rich hare or rabbit 
stew. 

JUMBLES. — Ring-shaped cookies. 

K. 

KNEAD. — To work the ingredients to- 
gether, usually with the hand. 

KNEADED BUTTER.— A ball of but- 
ter, made with flour and butter mixed to- 
gether. Used for thickening soups, gravies 
and sauces. 

KRULLER OR CRULLER.— A curled, 
crisp cake fried in fat. 



LARD MEAT.— To stick small pieces 
of fat pork into the flesh with a larding 
needle. 

LARDING NEEDLE.— A long needle 
tapering to a point, the blunt end having a 
long eye to hold the larding, or four catches 
to grasp the fat. 

LIAISON.— A thickening for Soups and 
sauces, usually of egg yolks, cream or 
butter. 



-M - 

MACEDOINE.— Vegetables mixed to- 
gether and used for a vegetable or a gar- 
nishing, also applied to a mixture of fruits. 

AU MAIGRE.— All broths, soups and 
gravies made without meat. 

MAITRE D'HOTEL.— Fresh butter 
kneaded with lemon juice, chopped parsley, 
pepper and salt, usually used on broils. 

MARINADE.— A pickle for meats and 
fish composed of various ingredients. 

MATELOT.— A rich fish stew made 
with wine. 

TO MARINATE.— To put into the 
marinade or pickle. 

MAYONNAISE.— A cold sauce made 
principally of eggs and oil, and used for 
salads, lobsters, salmon, etc. 

MENDIANTS.— A dessert of almonds 
and raisins. 

MENU.— The bill of fare. 

MERINGUE.— An icing made of 
white of egg and sugar. 

MIGNONETTE.— A coarsely ground 
pepper. 

MILANESE.— An Italian style of cook- 
ing with tomatoes and cheese. 

MILLEFEUILLES. — A very flaky 
pastry. 

MIREPOIX.— An essence of meat and 
vegetables. 

MIROTONS.— Slices of beef, stewed. 

MOISTEN.— To wet or to add water 
during the cooking. 

MOUILLER.— To French for moisten- 
ing. 

TO MOULD.— To turn a jelly or pud- 
ding into a mould to cook or to harden. 

MOUSSE.— Flavored whipped double 
cream freezed in the ice cream freezer. 

MOUSSE OF MEATS, ETC.— These 
are pounded and beaten lightly with cream, 
eaten cold, made also of fish, etc. 

MOUSSELINES.— Oval shaped moulds 
filled with certain preparations, then 
poached and served with sauces. 



THE JUICE OF A GOOD LEMON IS A TABLESPOONFUL. 



— N— 

AU NATUREL. — Anything cooked 
plain without any sauce. 

NOISETTES. — Round pieces of tender- 
loin of beef fried, and served with garnish- 
ings. 

NOISETTES— Hazel nuts. 

NOIX.— The kernel or nut. 

NOUGAT.— An almond and sugar 
sweetmeat. 

— O- 

OILED-PAPER.— A sheet of buttered 
white paper, laid on tops of dishes, cakes 
or joints when not required to brown 
quickly. 

OISEAUX.— Birds. 

OSMAZONE.— The muscular fibre of 
meat which gives the flavor to soups and 
broths. 

-P— 

PAIN.— Bread. 

PAINS.— Certain cold dishes moulded 
in square moulds. 

PALMETTES.— Palm shaped moulds 
filled with forcemeat and cooked in vari- 
ous ways. 

PANER.— To breadcrumb meats, fish, 
etc., before broiling, 

PAPER FRILLS.— Paper cut out in 
patterns to decorate the bone end of either 
a leg of meat or chops. 

PAPILLOTTE.— Well greased white 
paper used for wrapping cutlets, sausages 
or small fish that are to be broiled with- 
out spoiling; they must be well enclosed 
in the paper. 

PAPRIKA.— An Hungarian pepper. 

PARBOIL.— To boil anything until 
partly cooked. 

PARE AIT AU CAFE.— Frozen coffee 
cream. 

TO PASS. — Straining a liquid or any- 
thing else through a sieve, a tammy, a col- 
ander, or a napkin. 

PATE.— A small pie. 

PATE-DE-CHOU.— Paste for making 
eclairs and cream cakes. 

PATE DE FOIES GRAS.— A potted 
meat with truflies. 

PAUPIETTES.— Is the name given to 
thin slices of meat, flattened and cut to a 
proper size. Veal is generally employed 
for paupiettes, but any other meat serves 
as well. 

TO PEEL. — To remove the skin from a 
vegetable or fruit. 

PETITS FOURS.— Small fancy cakes. 



PILAU.— Meats cooked with rice in a 
Turkish fashion. 

PIQUER.— To lard meats, game, etc., 
with thin bits of fat pork. Always lard 
according to the grain of the meat, so 
some of the larding will be served with 
each slice. 

TO PLUNGE.- To dip an article in a 
liquid that will cover it, like plunging a 
fritter in fat. The word plunge means 
that there is plenty of liquid. 

TO POACH.— To boil in water until 
cooked; the water should not come in con- 
tact with the article. Place the moulds 
to be poached in a pan of enough water 
to reach to half their height and let this 
boil very slowly over the fire or in the 
oven. Eggs are poached in a shallow pan 
of boiling water. 

POELER.— A manner of cooking re- 
sembling braising. 

POLENTA. — A dried and crushed corn 
resembling semolina. 

POTAGE.— Soup. 

POT-AU-FEU. — A strong broth made 
with meats, bones, vegetables and season- 
ing. 

POT-PIE.— Stewed meats with dump- 
lings. 

POTTED MEATS. — Cooked seasoned 
meats, pounded to a paste and put away 
in pots. 

POULARDB.— A fat pullet. 

PULLET. — A young hen of the do- 
mestic fowl. 

PUREE. — Meat, vegetables, etc., re- 
duced to a pulp by pressing through a 
sieve. 

— Q— 

QUENELLES.— Small forcemeat balls, 
used for garnishing, usually moulded in 
two spoons. 

— R— 

RADIS. — Radishes. 

RAGOUT.— A stew. 

RED BEEF TONGUE. — A boiled 
tongue. 

REDUCE. — ^To boil until the quantity 
has diminished. 

REFRESH. — ^To throw into, or have 
cold water thrown over after boiling. 

RELEVES. — ^A course following the 
entrees. 

REMOULADE. — ^A well seasoned salad 
dressing. 

REMOVES.— The English of releves. 

TO RENDER. — To fry out fat and 
suets. 



A BREAKFAST CUPFUL OF BREADCRUMBS IS 4 OUNCES. 



RISOT. — Rice cooked in broth with to- 
matoes and cheese. 

RISSOLES. — Balls of minced meat 
placed between two layers of puff paste, 
then fried. 

ROUX. — Brown and white. Thicken- 
ing for soups, stock, gravies and sauces 
made by frying flour in butter till it at- 
tains the right color. 

— S— 

SABAYON.— A sweet sauce made of 
eggs aud wine, or liquor. 

SACCHARINE.— Sugar. 

SACCHAROMETER.— An instrument 
for weighing sugar. 

SALADE DE SAISON.— Any salad 
that is in season. 

SALMI. — A rich stew made from pre- 
viously roasted game or poultry. 

SALPICON. — Meats, etc., cut up into 
small dice. 

SAUCE PIQUANTE.— A sharp sauce 
fx^utaining fine herbs and high seasoning. 

SAUMON.— Salmon, 

SAUMURE.— Brine for pickling. 

SAUTER. — To toss continually in the 
pan. 

SAUTEUSE.— A stew pan. 

SCALD MILK.— Bring it almost but 
not quite to the boil. 

SCALD VEGETABLES.— To place 
til em for a few moments in boiling water, 
and then throw this away. 

TO SCALE.— To scrape off the scales 
of fish. 

TO SCORE.— To make incisions in fish 
or meats. 

SEASONINGS.— This comprises all 
condiments that are either salted, sweet- 
ened or spiced. 

SHALLOTS OR ESCHALOT. — A 
small, delicate onion. 

SHERBETS.— A frozen punch. 

SHRED SUET.— To slice suet very 
finely with a sharp knife, so the fragments 
are fine and thin. 

TO SIMMER.— To cook very gently on 
one side of the pot only. 

TO SINGE.— To burn off all the hairs 
from fowl or game with alcohol or a gas 
flame. 

SIPPETS.— Small squares of fried 
bread, usually used for purge soups. 

TO SKIM. — To remove the scum from 
the surface of a boiling liquid. 

SMOTHER.— To cook slowly with the 
cover on. 

SNAILS. — Edible snails are usually pre- 



pared at a delicatessen. The broth is use- 
ful for consumptives. 

SOAK. — To place meat, fish, vegeta- 
bles or fruit in hot or cold water for a 
certain time in order to soften, whiten or 
cleanse it. 

SOCLES. — Stands used for raising the 
height of certain dishes in order to improTe 
their appearance. Usually made of fat, 
rice, wood, tin, etc. 

SORBETS. — Frozen punches containing 
wines or liquors. 

SOUBISE. — A preparation of mashed 
onions. 

SOUFFLE.— Puffed. 

SOUPFLEE. — A light preparation 

made with eggs. 

SOUSE.— To put in pickle. 
SPATULA.— A broad, thin wooden 
spoon. 

STOCK.— The broth from which soups 
are made. 

TO STONE.— To take out the seeds 
from such as raisins. 

TO STUD.— To insert nail shaped 
pieces of truffles, tongue, etc. 

SUPREMES.— Dishes of chicken, etc., 
covered with the richest white sauce that 
is made. 

SWEETBREADS.— A gland found in 
young calves, either in the throat or 
breast, the latter being the most deli- 
cate. 

— T— 

TABLE D'HOTE.— A dinner prepared 
in a restaurant or hotel, where every one 
is served alike. 

TAMMY OR TAMIS.— A close cloth 
sieve through which purges, broths and 
sauces are strained. 

'x ARRAGON, — An aromatic plant, 
estragon in French. 

TART OR TOURTE.-A fruit pie. 

TARTARE.— A mayonnaise sauce con- 
taining mustard and well chopped fine 
herbs. 

TENDERLOIN.— The inside of the 
short loin under the spinal bone. 

TENDONS.— The gristle of veal. 

TERRINE. — The jar in which the pot- 
ted meats are put. 

TIMBALES.— A raised crust of pastry 
or macaroni filled with meat or game. 

TONGUE, RED BEEF.- A boiled bul- 
lock's tongue. 

TORTUE VERTE.— Green turtle. 

TOURNEDOS.— Small round pieces of 
the tenderloin, cooked and served with dif- 
ferent garnishings. 

TROTTERS. — The feet of the sheep. 



A BEEAKFAST CUPFUL OF CHOPPED SUET IS 4 OUNCES. 



TRUFFLED.— To stuff or lard with 
truffles. 

TRUFFLES.— A rare plant found in 
France, used for imparting certain flavors 
to a dish. 

TRUSS. — To put together the body, and 
tie the wings and thighs of poultry or 
game in order to round their shape for 
roasting, boiling, etc. 

— U— 

UNTRUSS.— To cut the strings and pull 
them out after cooking. 

—V— ■ 

VBLOUTE.— A white stock sauce. 

VINAIGRETTE.— A sharp sauce fin- 
ished with chopped pickles, etc. 

VOL-AU-VENT.— A rich puff paste 
crust to be filled with delicate stews or 
fricassees of fish, flesh or fowl. Fruits can 
also be used for filling a vol-au-veut. 

WAFFLES.— A thin cake cooked in 
irons. 

WHIPPED CREAM.— Fresh cream 
whipped to a froth. 

WHISK. — To beat to a froth, such as 
whites of eggs. 

WHITE WATER.— Water mixed with 
flour, vinegar, onions, salt, and parsley, 
for cooking white foods that are to remain 
white, such as calves' head and feet, 
oyster plant or cardoons. 

ZEPHYR. — A preparation made with 
rice, served hot for dessert. 

ZESTS.— The peels of oranges and 
lemons. 

-SEASONS- 
JANUARY. 

FRESH FISH.— Bass, black, sea and 
striped, butterfish, codfish, eels, flounders, 
frostfish, grouper, haddock, halibut, her- 
ring, perch, pike perch, red snapper, sal- 
mon trout, skate, smelts, spot fish, white- 
fish. 

SHELL FISH.— Hard clams, hard 
crabs, lobsters, oysters, scallops, frogs, 
terrapin, turtle. 

MEAT. — Beef, best November 1 to 
March 1, yearling lamb, mutton, pig, veal. 

POULTRY.— Capon, chickens, ducks, 
fowl, geese, pigeons, pullet, squab, turkey. 

GAME. — Ducks of all kinds, grouse, 
hare, partridge, pheasants, quail, wild 
squEJbs, squirrel, woodcock. 

VEGETABLE S.— Jerusalem arti- 
chokes, string beans, beets, caobage, car- 
rots, cauliflower, celery, cranberries, egg 
plant, leeks, onions, oyster plant, parsnips. 



potatoes, sweet potatoes, pumpkins, sor- 
rel, spinach, squash, turnips. ■ 

SALADS. — Celery, chicory, dandelion, 
escarolle, lettuce, watercress. 

FRUIT. — Apples, bananas, chestnuts, 
cocoauuts, lejnons, limes, oranges, man- 
darines, pineapples, pomegranates, tanger- 
ines. 

FEBRUARY. 

FRESH FISH.— Bass, black, sea and 
striped butterfish, German carp, codfish, 
eels, flounders, frost fish, grouper, had- 
uock, halibut, herring, perch, pike perch, 
red snapper, salmon trout, shad, skate, 
smelts, spot fish, American turbot, white- 
bait, whitefish. 

SHELIi FISH.— Hard clams, hard 
crabs, crawfish, lobsters, oysters, scallops, 
frogs, milts, terrapin, turtle. 

MEAT. — Beef, spring and yearling 
lamb, muttou, pig, veal. 

POULTRY. — Capon, chickens, ducks, 
fowl, geese, pigeons, pullet, squab, tur- 
key, suckling pig. 

GAME. — Doe, rice birds, all kinds of 
ducks, teal, wild geese, English hare, 
ptarmigans, wild turkey. 

VEGETABLES .—Imported arti- 
chokes, hot house asparagus, string beans, 
butter beans, beets, Brussels sprouts, new 
white cabbage, cardons, carrots, cauli- 
flower, celery, egg plant, cultivated mush- 
rooms, okra, Bermuda onions, oyster 
plant. Southern peas, Bermuda potatoes, 
rhubarb, spinach, tomatoes. 

SALADS. — Celery, chicory, fetticuSj 
dandelion, lettuce, watercress. 

FRUITS. — Apples, bananas, chestnuts, 
hot house grapes, grape fruit, lemons, 
oranges, pineapples, hot house strawber- 
ries. 

MARCH. 

FRESH FISH.— Black, sea and stri- 
ped bass, butterfish, codfish, eels, fiound- 
ers, frost fish, grouper, haddock, halibut, 
herring, perch, pike perch, red snapper, 
Oregon salmon, salmon trout, skate, 
smelts, spot fish, American turbot, white- 
bait. 

SHELL PISH.— Hard clams, hard 
crabs, crawfish, lobsters, oysters, scallops, 
nyster crabs, frogs, terrapin, turtle. 

MEA.T. — Bet'f, kid, spring and year- 
ling lamb, mutton, pig, veal. 

POULTRY. — Capon, chickens, duck, 
fowl, geese, pigeons, pullet, turkey, suck- 
'.ing pig. 

GAME. — Doe birds, all wild ducks, 
wild geese, pigeons, ptarmigans, wild tur- 
key. 



A BREAKFAST CUrFUL OF BKOWX SUGAR IS -J LB. 



VEGETABLES .—Imported arti- 
chokes, asparagus, string and wax beaus, 
beets, green kale cabbage, rtw white cab- 
bage, carrots, cauliflower, celerj"^ cucum- 
bers, egg plant, leeks, cultivated mush- 
rooms, okra, Bermuda onions, oyster plant. 
Southern peas, Bermuda potatoes, pump- 
kins, radishes, sorrel, spinach, Southern 
tomatoes, turnips. 

SALADS. — Celery, chicory, fetticus, 
dandelion, romaiue, watercress. 

FRUITS. — Apples, bananas, hot hous'i 
grapes, shaddock, lemons, oranges, pine- 
apples, strawberries. 

APRIL. 

FRESn FISH.— Black, sea and stri- 
ped bass, blackfish, butterfish, codfish, 
eels, flounders, haddock, halibut, herring, 
lamprey, fresh mackerel, porch, pike 
perch, Oregon salmon, shad, skate, spot 
fish, brook and wild trout. 

SHELL FISH.— Hard clams, hard 
crabs, crawfish, lobsters, oysters, frogs, 
terrapin, turtle. 

MEAT. — Beef, kid, spring and yearling 
Iamb, veal. 

POULTRY.— Capon, chickens, ducks, 
fowl, geese, spring turkey. 

GAME.— Ducks of all kinds, wild 
geese, ptarmigans, wild tuikey. 

VEGETABLES.— Asparagus, string and 
butter beans, new be<ets, green kale and 
white cabbage, new carrots, cauliflower, 
celery, cucumbers, egg plant, leeks, field 
mushrooms, okra, Bermuda onions, oy- 
ster plant. South peas. Long Island pota- 
toes, sweet potatoes, radishes, rhubarb, 
sorrel, spinach, Southern tomatoes. 

SALADS.— Fetticus, dandelion, lettuce, 
watercress. 

FRUITS. — Apples, bananas, hot house 
grapes, grape fruit, lemons, limes, or- 
anges, pineapples, strawberries. 

MAY. 

FRESH FISH.— Black, sea and stri- 
ped bass, blackfish, bluefish, codfish, eels, 
flounders, haddock, halibut, kingfish, lam- 
prey, fresh and Spanish macktrel, perch, 
pompano, Oregon salmon, shad, skate, 
spotfish, trout, American turbot, white- 
bait. 

SHELL FISH.— Hard and soft clams, 
hard and soft crabs, lobsters, mussels, 
slirimp^;, oyster craus, frogs, terrapin, 
turtle. 

IMEAT.— Beef, kid, spring and yearling 
lamb, mutton, pig, veal. 

POULTRY.— Capon, chickens, broilers, 
tame duck, duckling, fowl, geese, pigeons, 
spring turkey, suckKng pig. 



GA^IE. — Doo birds, pigeons. 

VEGETABLES.— Asparp.gus, string, 
wax and butter beans, new beets, new 
cabbage, new carrots, cauliflower, celery, 
cucumbers, egg plant, fresh mushrooms, 
Bermuda onions, oyster plant, parsnips. 
Southern peas, new potatoes, radishes, 
rhubarb, sorrel. Southern tomatoes, tnr- 
nips. 

SALADS. — Dandelion, lettuce, romaine, 
watercress. 

FRUITS. — Apples, bananas, cherries, 
hot house grapes, lemons, limes, oranges, 
hot house peaches, pineapples, strawber- 
ries. 

JUNE. 

FRESH FISH.— Black, sea, striped 
and lake bass, blackfish, bluefish, bonito, 
codfish, eels, flounders, haddock, halibut, 
kingfish, lamprey, fresh and Spanish 
mackerel, mullet, muscallonge, pike, pom- 
pano, Kennebec salmon, skate, sturgeon, 
trout, weakfish, whitebait. 

SHELL FISH.— Hard and soft clams, 
hard and soft crabs, lobsters, mussels, 
turtle, prawns. 

MEAT. — Beef, kid, spring and yearling 
lamb, mutton, veal. 

POULTRY.— Capon, chickens and 
broilers, ducks, duckling, fowl, spring 
gcfsp, squabs, turkeys. 

GAME. — Doe birds, pigeons. 

VEGETABLES.— Asparagus, string, 
wax and butter beans, new white cab- 
bage, carrots, cauliflower, cucumbers, 
egg plant, field mushrooms, okra, Ber- 
muda onions, Southern peas, Bermuda 
potatoes, radishes, rhubarb, sorrel, to- 
matoes. Rutabaga turnips, new white 
turnips. 

SALADS.— Lettuce, romaine, water- 
cress. 

FRUITS. — Apples, bananas, cherries, 
hot house grapes, grape fruit, lemons, 
limes, orangps, hot house peaches, rasp- 
berries, strawberries. 

JULY. 

FRESH FISH.— Angel, bass of all 
kinds, blackfish, bluefish, bonito, codfish, 
eels, flounders, haddock, halibut, kingfish, 
mackerel, Spanish mackerel, mullet, 
muscallonge, pike, pompano, Kennebec 
salmon, sheepshead, skate, sturgeon, 
trout wild and brook, weakfish, whitebait. 

SHELL FISH.— Clams hard and soft, 
crabs hard and soft, lobsters, mussels, 
turtle, prawns. 

]\IEAT.— Beef, kid, lamb, mutton, veal. 

POULTRY. — Capon, chickens and 
broilers, ducks, fowls, pigeons, pullet, 
squab, turkey. 



A BREAKFAST CUPFUL OF STONED EAISINS IS -J LB. 



9 



GAME— Doe birds. 

VEGETABLES.— Asparagus, string, 
wax and butter beans, carrots, caulif- 
flower, celery, corn, cucumbers, egg plant, 
mushrooms, small onions. Long Island 
peas, Long Island potatoes, radishes, 
sorrel, spinach, summer squash, tomatoes, 
new turnips. 

SALADS.— Celery, chicory, lettuce, ro- 
maine, watercress. 

FRUITS. — Alligator pears, apricots, 
bananas, blackberries, cherries, black and 
red currants, gooseberries, Brighton, Dela- 
ware, Hauteford, Ives, lona. Muscatel, 
Niagara, and Pokington grapes, huckle- 
berries, watermelon, nectarines, peaches, 
plums, raspberries and strawberries. 

AUGUST. 

FRESH FISH.— Angel, bass of all 
kinds, blackfish, bluefish, bonito, carp, cod- 
fish, eels, flounders, haddock, halibut, 
kingfish, mackerel, mullet, muscallonge, 
pike, porgies, salmon, sheepshead, stur- 
geon, trout, weakfisli. 

SHELL FISH.— Hard and soft clams, 
hard and soft crabs, lobsters, mussels, 
turtle, prawns. 

MEATS.— Beef, kid, lamb, mutton, 
veal. 

POULTRY.— Chickens, tame ducks, 
fowl, geese, pigeons, squab, turkey. 

GAME. — Venison, doe birds, grouse, 
partridge, squirrel. 

VEGETABLES.— Broad beans, lima 
beans, string beans, red cabbage. Savoy 
cabbage, celery knobs, corn, cucumbers, 
pickling cucumbers, egg plant, kohl-rabi, 
small onions, oyster plant, parsnips. Long 
Island peas, sweet potatoes, radishes, 
spinach, squash, tomatoes. 

SALADS. — Celery, chicory, escarolle, 
lettuce, romaine, watercress. 

FRUITS. — Alligator pears, apricots, 
bananas, blackberries, currants, ginger, 
grapes, greengages, mangoes, melons, 
watermelons, peaches, pears, pineapples, 
plums, raspberries, tamarinds, winter- 
green. 

SEPTEMBER. 

FRESH FISH.— Bass of all kinds, 
blackfish, bluefish, bonito, German carp, 
codfish, eels, haddock, halibut, kingfish, 
Lafayette, mackerel, mullet, muscallonge, 
perch, pike percii, porgies. salmon, sheeps- 
head, skate, smelts, spotfish, sturgeon, 
weakfish. 

SHELL FISH.— Hard and soft clams, 
hard and soft crabs, crawfish, lobsters, 
mussels, oysters, scallops, shrimps, turtle. 

MEAT.— Beef, lamb, mutton, val. 

POULTRY.— Chickens, mongrel duck. 



duckling, geese, Guinea fowl, pigeons, 
pullet, squab, turkey. 

GAME. — Venison, doe rail, doe reed, 
doe rice birds, all kinds of wild ducks, 
grouse or prairie hen, English hare, part- 
ridge, pigeons, plovers, snipe, squabs, 
squirrel, woodcock. 

VEGETABLES.— Broad, lima, and 
string beans, beets, red and white cab- 
bage, carrots, cucumbers, egg plant, kohl- 
labi, girolles and moril mushrooms, oyster 
plant, sweet potatoes, spinach, squash, 
tomatoes, white turnips. 

SALADS. — Celery, chicory, escarolle, 
lettuce, romaine, watercress. 

FRUITS. — Alligator pears, bananas, 
figs, Malaga grapes, greengages, mangoes, 
melons, watermelons, peaches, pears, 
pineapple, plums, quinces, tamarinds, 
wintergreen. 

OCTOBER. 

FRESH FISH.— Bass of all kinds, 
blackfish, bluefish, bonito, butterfish, fjarp, 
codfish, eels, fiounders, frostfish, haddock, 
halibut, herring, kingfish, Spanish mack- 
erel, perch, pike, porgies, red snapper, Ore- 
gon salmon, salmon trout, sheepshead, 
skate, smelts, weakfish. 

SHELL FISH.- Hard clams, hard 
crabs, crawfish, lobsters, oysters, scallops, 
shrimps, codfish, tongues, oyster crabs, 
turtle. 

JktEAT. — Beef, Iamb, mutton, pig, veal. 

POULTRY.- Chickens, ducks, fowl, 
geese, pigeons, turkey. 

GAME. — Doe birds, wild ducks of all 
kinds, teal, grouse, English hare, part- 
ridge, pheasants, pigeons, plovers, snipe, 
squabs, squirrels, woodcock. 

VEGJETABLES.- Lima beans, string 
and butter beans, cabbage, cauliflowei-, 
cranberries, hot house cucumbers, egg 
plant, mushrooms, onions, oyster plant, 
peas, sweet potatoes^ squash, tomatoes, 
teltow turnips. 

SALADS. — Celery, chicory, escarolle. • 
lettuce, romaine, watercress. 

FRUITS. — Apples, bananas, figs, gin- 
ger, grapes, grape fruit, lemons, melon, 
peaciies, persimmons, quinces. 

NOVEMBER. 

FRESH FISH.— Bass of all kinds, 
butterfish, codfish, eels, flounders, frost- 
fish, grouper, haddock, halibut, herring, 
kingfish, mascallonge, pike perch, pom- 
pano, red snapper, salmon, sheepshead, 
skate, English sole, spotfish, whitefish. 

SHELL FISH.— Hard clams, hard 
crabs, crawfish, lobsters, oysters, oyster 
crabs, scallops, terrapin, turtle. 



10 



COALS ARE SOLD BY THE TON OF 2,000 LBS. IN TEN SACKS. 



MEAT. — Beef, lamb, mutton, pig, veal. 

POULTRY. — Chickens, ducks, fowls, 
geese, pigeons, squab, turkey. 

GAME. — Antelope and venison, bear, 
doe birds, wild ducks of all kinds, teal, 
grouse, hare, partridge, pheasants, 
plovers, quail, rabbits, snipe, squabs, 
squirrel, wild turkey, woodcock. 

VEGETABLES. — String beans, beets, 
cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, celery, 
cranberries, egg plant, kohl-rabi, mush- 
rooms, onions, peppers, potatoes, sweet 
potatoes, sorrel (hot house), spinach, 
squash, hot house tomatoes, 

SALADS.— Celery, chicory, escarolle, 
lettuce, romaine, watercress. 

FRUITS. — Apphs, bauanas, chest- 
nuts, figs, ginger, Malaga grapes, shad- 
dock, lemons, limes, Spanish melon, nuts, 
Florida oranges, pineapples, persimmons, 
quinces, tangerines. 

DECEMBER. 

FRESH FISH. — Bass, black, sea and 
striped, butterfish, codfish, eels, flound- 
ers, frostfish, grouper, haddock, halibut, 
herring, muscallonge, perch, pike, perch, 
pompano, red snapper, Oregon salmon, 
skate, smelts, English soles, white fish. 

SHELL FISH.— Hard clams, hard 
crabs, codfish, tongues, crawfish, frogs, 
lobsters, oysters, scallops, terrapin, 
turtle. 

MEAT. — Beef, lamb, mutton, pig, veal. 

POULTRY. — Chickens, durks, fowl, 
geese, Guinea fowl, peacock, pigeons, 
pullet, squab, turkey, suckling pig. 

GAME.— Bear, doe birds, wild ducks, 
teal, wild geese, grouse, hare, partridge, 
pheasants, plovers, quail rabbits, snipe, 
squabs, wild turkey, woodcock. 

VEGETABLES.— String beans, beets, 
Brussels sprouts, white cabbage, car- 
rots, celery, cranberries, hothouse cu- 
cumbers, egg plant, leeks, okra, 
onions, oyster plant, parsnips, peppers, po- 
tatoes, sweet potatoes, pumpkins, sorrel, 
spinach, winter squash, hothouse tomatoes, 
turnips. 

SALADS.— Monk's beard, celery, chic- 
ory, dandelion, escarolle, lettuce, water- 
cress. 

FRUITS.— Apples, bananas, chestnuts, 
figs, Malaga grapes, shaddock, lemons, 
Florida oranges, pears, pomegranates, tan- 
gerines. 



SEASONS FOR HERBS.— The best 
months for gathering herbs are: 

Basil. August 1st to November 1st. 

Bay-leaves. To be had all the year 
round. 



Borage. Green in the summer and fall. 

Burnet. June 1st to Oct. 1st. 

Chervil. All the year rouud, poor dur- 
ing hot weather. 

Chives. Oct. 1st to June 1st. 

Dill. Green in summer and fall. 

Fennel. August 1st to Nov. 1st. 

Garlic. All the year round. 

Marjoram. August 1st to Nov. 1st. 

Mint. Nearly all the year; scarce in 
December and January. 

Parsley. Best from August to Novem- 
ber. 

Rosemary. August 1st to Nov. 1st. 

Sage. Green in summer and fall. 

Savory. Green in summer and fall. 

Shallots. Green in spring and summer. 

Tansy. Green in summer and fall. 

Tarragon. From March until Decem- 
ber. 

Thyme. July 1st to December 1st. 

The dried herbs are found during the 
balance of the year. 

WINTER HERBS. — These are the 
most useful: Parsley, lemon thyme, basil, 
tarragon, mint, chervil and sage. Gather 
the herbs on a dry day, and after cleans- 
ing them thoroughly, dry gradually in a 
moderate oven. Then pick off the leaves, 
pound, sift and put into dry bottles; cork 
tightly and label. 

PINE HERBS.— This is a name given 
to all fine herbs that are used for either a 
salad, a sauce, etc., and usually are com- 
posed of chervil, parsley, chives, pimper- 
nel, tarragon and nasturtiums. These are 
to be chopped up very finely. Any one of 
them can be left out if found necessary. 

—FRESH HERBS.— 

BASIL.— The plant is picked before 
blossoming and dried in the shade or a 
very dry place, afterwards powdered. It 
is thus used with other aromatics or else 
can, while still green and tender, be used 
for cooked salads, such as beans, potatoes, 
beets, etc. 

CHERVIL.— An aromatic, kitchen gar- 
den plant, used for seasoning only, it being 
besides most healthy as n diuretic and de- 
purative. Use it when directed, but with 
caution. 

CHIVES OR SCALLION is a well 
known plant used for making kitchen bou- 
quets that are placed in soups, stews and 
sauces, and also used in certain salads. 

FENNEL. — The seeds of this plant 
somewhat resemble the aniseed; they are 
used for various liquors. The leaves are 
very aromatic, but are only used sparingly 
as a seasoning. 

GARLIC— An oleraceons plant; the 
bulbs, called cloves, being used for various 
seasonings. It contains a certain mucilage 
combined with a volatile oil of a most 



200 LBS, OF BEEF, PORK, ETC., MAKE ONE BARREL. 



11 



acrid and irritating nature. A leg of mut- 
ton is improved by inserting a little garlic 
in it before cooking, and many like the 
flavor of it in a chicory or cucumber 
salad. This is done by rubbing a piece of 
it onto a crust of bread and either leaving 
it in the salad or rubbing the bowl with it. 
It is called a "Chapon." 

MINT.— There is a large variety of this 
plant, but the pepper-mint is most largely 
used; from it is distilled the essential oil 
for mediciues and for making pepper-mint 
candies. Mint is very calming for the 
nerves, especially when combined with 
orange flower water. It is used cautiously 
in cooking, except for sauces for lamb and 
mutton, and to flavor fresh green peas 
while cooking; spearmint is the common 
garden mint used for this purpose, also 
used in special drinks. 

PARSLEY.— Parsley is a most useful 
herb, as it imparts a subtle flavor to many 
dishes, and is used in almost all stews and 
sauces. There are various species of the 
plant. 

SAGE. — An aromatic herb rarely used 
in fine cooking, excepting in brines or 
marinades for large pieces of venison, yet 
it is considered to be an excellent season- 
ing for roast pork, ducks or geese. 

SAVORY.— The leaves resemble the 
hyssop; used cautiously for certain flavor- 
ings. 

SHALLOT, — Used only for seasoning. 
It is stronger than the onion, but less acrid 
than garlic. Shallot is needed in all sharp 
sauces. 

TANSY. — ^Used for aromatizing vinegar, 
and formerly employed for making certain 
liquors. 

TARRAGON.— An aromatic plant. The 
best and the healthiest is that which is cul- 
tivated in the vegetable garden. Tarragon 
facilitates digestion, exciting the secretion 
of the gastric juices. It is used for season- 
ing certain meats by placing it in the 
sauces, and also for flavoring aromatic 
vinegars. 

THYME.— Used for seasoning. Very 
little of it should be employed on account 
of its acrid aroma. The lemon thyme is 
the best. 

BOUQUET OF SWEET HERBS.— 
Is composed of a few sprigs of parsley, a 
sprig of thyme, a clove of garlic, a bayleaf , 
a couple of cloves and some peppercorns. 
Wrap the parsley around the other herbs 
and tie with a thread. Put this way into 
soups or sauces, it is more easily removed. 

AROMATICS.— Saffron, vanilla, cinna- 
mon, cardomous, aniseed and ambergris 
are aromatics. They are cordial, spicy 
and agreeably flavored. 

SPICES.— A generic name given to cer- 
tain aromatic substances employed for 



preparing meats and other culinary arti- 
cles. Pepper, nutmeg, mace, cloves, red- 
pepper and ginger are spices. 

MIXED SPICES.— Pound separately a 
quarter of a pound of pepper, two cloves, 
half a nutmeg and one ounce of ginger. 
Pass all together through a sieve to mix 
them thoroughly and keep in a well closed 
tin. This is much better than buying 
them already mixed. 

CONDIMENTS.— Are substances that 
flatter the taste, excite the appetite and 
improve the state of the stomach by caus- 
ing digestion to be more easily performed. 
Each condiment possesses a special feat- 
ure and produces either a good or a bad 
effect, therefore the nature of every one 
should be known. 

SIMPLE CONDIMENTS.— Are those 
used in their natural state, without any 
mixing. The principal ones are: Salt, 
sugar, pepper, cayenne, cinnamon, vanilla, 
cloves, nutmeg, bayleaf, thyme, garlic, 
onions, leeks, fine herbs, such as parsley, 
tarragon, chervil, chives and fennel, ani- 
seed and acids, such as lemon, orange, etc. 

AI/LSPICE.— The berry of the pimento 
tree, uniting the flavor of nutmegs, cin- 
namon and cloves. The berries are picked 
when full grown, before they begin to 
rii>en and are then carefully dried. It is 
sometimes called Jamaica pepper. 

ANISEED. — Is a useful condiment, but 
very little used. The essence is made by 
mixing one ounce of oil of aniseed with 
eight ounces of rectified spirit. Bakers 
frequently introduce it in rye bread, and 
for the sick, aniseed mixed in boiled milk 
is excellent. 

BAYLEAF AND THYME.— Used only 
for flavoring certain dishes or soups. They 
are not unhealthy if used sparingly. 

CINNAMON. — ^Is an aromatic sub- 
stance, used for flavoring food. Moder- 
ately used it facilitates digestion. It 
comes in a powder, a shell or small sticks. 
The best cinnamon comes from Ceylon, 
and the druggists generally sell the purest 
kind. 

CLOVES.— Have an agreeable taste 
and smell. They should be used spar- 
ingly; being of an irritating nature, would 
easily provoke inflammation. 

LEEK.— Is of the same family as the 
onion, and can only be used when cooked. 
The green stalks are less exciting than 
the white ones, which constitute the onion. 

NUTMEG. — This is much healthier 
than cloves and can be used more fre- 
quently, but a very small pinch of the 
grated nutmeg will suffice to flavor. 

PEELS OF ORANGES AND LEM- 
ONS. — Are inoffensive condiments, used 
generally for flavoring. The juices of 
these fruits are much more active. Dried 



12 



19G LBS. OF FLOUR MAKE ONE BARREL. 



orange peel added to camomile flowers in 
the proportion of half the quantity of 
the flowers improves the tonic. Lemon 
rind forms a nice mild tonic and stom- 
achic in certain forms of dyspepsia. 

PEPPER. — Ground or whole pepper is 
a bitter, sharp substance, which should be 
used sparingly, and never given to the 
sick unless prescribed by the doctor. It 
is adulterated with inferior grain, husks 
of seeds and even dust. The best way 
to obtain it pure is to purchase it whole 
and grind it in a pepper mill. The pure 
article will be obtained at a moderate cost. 

RED PEPPER OR CAYENNE.— A 
very pungent pepper, the product of sev- 
eral species of capsicum. The best way 
to obtain the pure pepper without half 
the heat is to make it oneself of capsi- 
cums or chillis, as follows: Remove the 
stalks and put the pods in a colander, set 
them in front of the fire, and let dry for 
twelve hours, then put them in a mortar, 
with one-fourth their weight of salt, and 
rub as fine as possible; pour the powder 
into a well corked bottle. It is better 
flavored when fresh ground. 

SALT. — Common salt, or sodium chlor- 
ide, is a compound that when pure is 
transparent and colorless. It is obtained 
from three sources, beds of rock salt, salt 
springs and sea water. Salt makes a 
part of almost all kinds of food and is 
necessary to the health and life of man 
and animals, being nutritious and diges- 
tive. The best and most healthy salt is 
the common kitchen salt. 

SUGAR.— This, the same as salt, is 
used more than any other condiment. Al- 
though not as useful as salt, still it is 
most necessary, but its abuse may cause 
acidity of the stomach and slight consti- 
pation. If only pure sugars are used they 
will have no evil effects on one's health, 
nor will they increase fat or be detri- 
mental to the teeth. Invalids are con- 
stantly using sugar in their teas. The 
best way to have it unadulterated is to 
crush loaf sugar, and even if it be not so 
fine to look at, it will be purer than the 
others. 

VANILLA. — Is an excellent condiment, 
but should never be bought in powder 
form nor in extract, for there are many 
ways of adulterating vanilla, and as those 
often contain artificial vanilla this fre- 
quently causes dangerous and momentary 
poisoning. 

MIXED CONDIMENTS.— Are those 
that have undergone a preparation, the 
principal ones being: Mustard, pickles, 
gherkins and vinegars. 

MUSTARD.— Is frequently adulterated 
with flour and tumeric; many prefer this 
mixture to the pure article. Mustard 
water is said to be excellent for cleansing 



the hands after handling odorous sub- 
stances. 

VINEGAR.— Is a weak acetic acid 
used for flavoring food and preserving 
pickles, etc. In the United States it is 
mostly made out of cider. In England 
much of it is made from malt and sour 
beer and ale, and in France from both red 
and white wines. It is also largely made 
from grain. It must be used with pru- 
dence, as its sharpness and acidity is 
harmful. 

CEREALS. 

FLOUR. — Flour is the powder obtained 
from different grains by a special prepara- 
tion, such as wheat, rye, oats, etc. The 
most common flours are: Oats, rye, 
wheat, corn, barley, rice, buckwheat. 

BARLEY.— This flour is not much used 
as a food; for bread it is too heavy and 
coarse, but when hulled it makes excellent 
broth and is useful for young children, be- 
ing a good astringent. 

BUCKWHEAT.— Is a nonrishing flour, 
but being somewhat laxative, is harmful 
to those suffering from stomach troubles. 
Buckwheat cakes are diflScult to digest. 

CORN. — Cornmeal is a light, agreeable 
flour, and is fattening for those who par- 
take much of it. 

OATS. — Hulled oats, when ground, is 
called oatmeal and is specially good for 
young children and to those suffering with 
diabetes. It is light and tonical. 

RICE. — Rice is a grain, the flour being 
a feculent. It is light, healthy, nourish- 
ing and very useful either for the sick- 
room, or employed tor pastry and desserts. 

RYE. — Rye is used for making a dark 
bread, which is heavy and indigestible, 
but is much healthier when eaten some- 
what stale. 

WHEAT.— This is the name given to 
the best kind of flour, and is universally 
used not only for making bread, but for 
all pastries and dishes in which flour en- 
ters. 

CHESTNUT FLOUR.— This is the 
staple food of many Italian peasants, with 
which they make their polenta, it being 
more nutritious than maize. The chest- 
nut is also used whole for soup, while in 
some districts the flour is baked like oat- 
cake. A quantity of chestnut leaves is 
collected from the trees, the meal being 
mixed with water, and the leaves placed 
on a hot iron plate to receive the dough; 
it is then covered with another layer of 
leaves and a hot iron placed over the 
whole. Infants thrive remarkably well 
on food made from chestnut flour. 

FECULA.— Is a powder extracted from 
various plants, such as rice, potatoes, etc. 



COTTOlSr PLANTED IN" THE U. S. IIST 1759. 



13 



There are two kinds of feculas, the native 
and the exotic. The native are the potato 
t-nd rice. Tiie exotic, arrowroot, tapioca, 
salep, hominy and sago. 

GRITS. — Are coarsely ground grains, 
better adapted to simple cookery than fine 
flours, they merely requiring to be cooked 
soft in water. These grains are cracked 
wheat, wheat grits or farina, oatmeal, 
oornmeal and hominy. They ar€ all cooked 
the same way; oatmeal and corn cannot 
be overcooked; they are best steamed to 
prevent burning, and all except corn ab- 
sorb from three to four times their bulk of 
water, corn a little over twice. 

MACARONI.— This forms one of the 
chief foods of the Italians, being nourish- 
ing and very cheap. Naples and Genoa 
rival each other as to the enormous quan- 
tities they export, and it is hard to tell 
which city turns out the best quality. It 
is composed of wheaten flour, mixed with 
water to a paste, and then by various 
processes it is forced by machinery into 
its characteristic shapes, afterwards being 
carefully dried. Some say that the Italian 
flour being particularly hard grained is 
specially suited for its manufacture. 
Naples macaroni is usually in long, straight 
pipes, and that of Genoa twisted. There 
are many varieties, such as the "ribbon" 
or '"Lasagna." A finer pipe is known as 
"Spaghetti," and the finest of all, which 
is in a sort of tangle, is called vermicelli. 
The length of time required for its cook- 
ing depends greatly on the variety and 
freshness. That which has been kept a 
long while is inferior in flavor, and ex- 
tremely hard to boil so to have it soft. 
Flour in the form of macaroni and noodles 
is more perfectly digested than even in 
bread. 

STARCH.— Starch forms a large part 
of the food of man; it is in all vegetable 
substances and grains, which are princi- 
pally made up of it. Rice is nearly uine- 
tenths starch. Indian corn and barley 
more than two-thirds. Rye, oats and 
wheat nearly two-thirds. Potatoes are 
nearly one-fifth. Arrowroot, tapioca and 
sago are starchy plants. Starch looks 
like a white powder, but it is actually 
made up of small round or oval grains. 
The grains of potato starch are three 
times as large as those of wheat starch 
and ten times as large as rice starch. 
When boiled the covering of these small 
grains burst and swell into a thick jelly. 
This is why rice, beans, peas and other 
grains swell up when they are cooked. 

FRUITS.— Fruits are divided into 
many species. There are the acid, the 
acidulated, the watery, the aromatic, the 
astringent, the oily, the dry and the sweet. 
They make an excellent food and can be 
employed fresh, cooked or dried. Some 



are digestible, others are not, and their 
ripeness must be of more consideration 
than their appearance. Such fruits as 
the peach, pear, orange, etc., should al- 
ways be peeled with a knife; others, such 
as plums, that cannot be peeled, should 
be washed. Strawberries, cherries, cur- 
rants, etc., should be put in a colander 
and cold water poured over. Then dry 
them on a cloth. Cold water does not 
injure either the flavor or aroma of the 
fruit, but cleanses it free of sand, dust 
and the contact of hands that may have 
previously handled it. Red fruits, such 
as strawberries, currants, raspberries and 
cherries, are more indigestible than other 
acid fruits. They are not to be eaten by 
those having delicate stomachs nor by 
those who have a tendency to skin dis- 
eases, such as eczema, ringworms, pim- 
ples, etc., rheumatism or gout. 

—ACID FRUITS— 

CHERRIES.— The light, clear, trans- 
parent cherries are the most acid, and 
the dark ones are heavy. Cherries can 
be prepared in many ways. 

CURRANTS.— There are three varie- 
ties of these, the red, white and black, 
the first being the most common. 

GOOSEBERRIES.- These are gener- 
ally very tart and very indigestible. They 
are usually cooked, and rarely eaten raw 
in this country, where they do not attain 
a very large size. 

LEMONS.— These are not eaten; they 
are condiments for syrups, sauces, lemon- 
ades, etc. Select them of a medium size^ 
heavy, dark color and a smooth skin. 

ORANGES.- This is a fruit suitable 
for the sick and the well. Select them 
of a medium size (too small they are un- 
ripe, too large they are tasteless), and 
having a dark skin. The navel or seed- 
less oranges are the best; the mandarin 
is sweeter, but less refreshing. 

PINEAPPLE.— This is a very cheap 
fruit in this country, very dear in Eng- 
land and Franco. It must be of a good 
color, its scaly skin not too dry, other- 
wise the fruit will have lost its beauti- 
ful flavor. The pineapple is remarkably 
healthy, as it is a sort of vegetable pep- 
sin and strengthens the digestive organs. 
It will relieve an acute attack of dys- 
pepsia if the juice is taken every fifteen 
minutes in teaspoonful doses. It has also 
antiseptic qualities and should be used in 
diphtheria cases. 

RHUBARB. — The acid of common 
ihubarb is more valuable as an article 
of food in spring than most of us imagine, 
as it comes at a season when acids are 
wholesome after the heavy diet of winter. 
Limes and grape-fruit must be classed 



14 



COAL WAS DUG FOR FUEL IN 1234. 



among the acid fruits. The former is a 
wild fruit grown in the West Indies, the 
latter resembling a very large orange, is 
very healthful, especially eaten at the 
morning meal. 

—ACIDULATED FRUITS- 
APPLES. — There are many varieties 
of the apple, and can be eaten either 
cooked or raw. It is considered heavy 
and indigestible, although many persons 
find it agrees with them as it acts on the 
bile of the liver. Apples will often re- 
lieve cases of nervous dyspepsia. 

PEACH. — This being a very cold fruit 
is indigestible. It originally was a 
poisoned fruit, but cultivation has pro- 
duced the perfect fruit of to-day. Prussic 
acid is made from the kernels. 

PLUMS. — These are indigestible even 
when cooked, but in preserves they lose 
some of their tartness, and are much 
more healthy. 

The beach plum although a little bit- 
ter makes good preserves. 

The greengage is the best of the cul- 
tivated plums. 

The damson is a small black plum, is 
derived from the word Damascus from 
whence they originally came. 

Other common ones are the yellow or 
green plum, which grows wild. The 
beach plum grows in the sand on the 
Atlantic Coast. 

RASPBERRY.— Of the same family 
as the strawberries, possesses the same 
qualities and the same faults. It moulds 
quickly, so must be eaten soon after it is 
picked. It is sweeter than the straw- 
berry. 

STRAWBERRi. — Is a luscious fruit 
that does not agree with every one. They 
are acid and indigestible. 

—WATERY FRUITS- 
MELON AND WATERMELON.— 

Are cold indigestible fruits even when 
very ripe, and should never be given to 
the sick. 

—AROMATIC FRUITS- 
APRICOTS — These are ripe when the 
skin is of an orange yellow, slightly red 
on one side, and so soft to the touch, 
that they can easily be broken in two. 
They have a very strong aroma. 

NECTARINES.— These are of the 
same family as the apricot. 

—ASTRINGENT FRUITS— 

These are excellent for stopping diar- 
rboeal complaints, and should not be 



eaten by those subject to constipation 
or else in very small quantities. 

BLACKBERRIES.— A common fruit, 
of a sweet nature and grows wild. A 
good brandy is made from them. 

HUCKLEBERRIES.— These, as bar- 
berries, are never eaten uncooked. 

QUINCES.— To be cooked for jam, 
jelly, marmalade, etc. 

CRANBERRIES.— A red, sour fruit 
much used for making sauces, pies, etc. 
They are excellent for malaria, and a 
cranberry poultice is recommended for 
erysipelas. 

QUINCE. — The same family as the 
pear and apple. They are unfit to eat 
raw, but are excellent for marmalades 
or jellies. 

Quince seeds contain much mucilage, 
and are made into bandoline for the hair 
by boiling them in water, then mixing 
with alcohol and scent. 

—OILY FRUITS- 
ALMONDS.— Dry, sweet or bitter are 
heavy, indigestible and are better when 
used as juice, in milk or decoction. 

COCO ANUT.— Shake the nut before 
opening it to learn whether it is full of 
milk, otherwise it is dry and rank. It 
is excellent for making light, sweet des- 
serts. 

NUTS. — Nuts are very indigestible 
and frequently cause colics. Fresh nuts 
are healthier than dried ones. Pistachio 
nuts are used for cooking exclusively. 

—DRY FRUITS— 

These consist of raisins, nuts, dried 
figs, almonds, prunes and dates. 

DATES.— Are nourishing and light, 
but astringent, and are not suitable for 
those suffering from constipation. 

FIGS. — Are easy to digest and have 
a contrary effect to dates, being a mild 
aperient. 

PRUNES. — Refreshing and laxative 
and on many produce a light purgative. 

RAISINS. — Are heavy and indigesti- 
ble. They should be eaten sparingly 
and are always better when cooked. 

—SWEET FRUITS- 
BANANAS. — A cold, easily digested 
fruit; it must be eaten ripe, and this is 
when the skin is of a dark yellow, having 
black spots scattered over. If the fruit 
itself is soft and black, this does not con- 
demn it., 

GRAPES. — These are always healthy, 
especially the white ones. Always throw 
aside the skins and seeds, as these cause 



OXE OUNCE OF CELERY SEED GIVES 7,000 PLANTS. 



15 



any bad effect the grapes may have on 
the digestive organs. 

PEARS. — Pears are very healthy 
when they have attained a perfect ripe- 
ness. They are at their best in Septem- 
ber, as before that they still retain a 
little acidity. In winter they should be 
kept in a warm room, as a very cold 
pear is unpleasant to eat. 

POMEGRANATE.— The bark of the 
root, and the rind of the fruit contain 
much tannin and are used for tanning 
fine morocco. The bark is also used for 
medicine, especially beneficial for worms. 
The fruit is about the size of a large 
orange, and has a deep orange colored 
hard skin. The pulp and seeds alone 
are eaten. 

Cooling drinks can also be made from 
the fruit. 

ALMONDS.— The kernel of the nut 
is used considerably in cooking on ac- 
count of its delicate flavor. The sweet 
and the bitter almond can only be dis- 
tinguished by the taste. The sweet 
variety are harmless, but the bitter con- 
tain prussic acid, therefore must be used 
with great discretion. The best almonds 
are the Jordan. Valencia are of the 
second quality, consequently cheaper. 
Spanish almonds are of mediocre quality 
and are usually imported in baskets. 
Never buy any almonds that are dry, 
broken, worm-eaten or smell iu the least 
degree rancid. 

CHESTNUTS. — Chestnuts are the 
most farinaceous, and least oily of all 
nuts, and therefore claim to be the most 
digestible. Many never try cooking 
them in any way, except as a stuflSng or 
sauce for turkey, or roasting them for 
dessert, but they can be prepared in vari- 
ous manners and will always be found 
deliciouB. 

PEANUTS.— Is the fruit of a plant 
grown in warm climates. It has a trail- 
ing vine with small yellow flowers. 
When these fall, the stems grow longer, 
bend downwards and the pod on the end 
ripens in the ground where it has forced 
itself. It takes its name from the shape 
of the pods, which resemble the pod of 
the pea. 

OLIVES. — This fruit is much appre- 
ciated by many, though it is a taste, per- 
haps, that has to be acquired. Italian 
olives are the best, being large, firm and 
of excellent flavor. The French and 
Spanish come next. They are the un- 
ripe fruit of the olive tree pickled in 
brine. Should they be too salty, allow 
them to steep in cold water for about 
one hour before using. 

Serve them here and there on the ta- 
ble in small glass or silver dishes, neatly 
arranged, and with a little of their own 



liquor or some water. It is usual to 
place a small silver fork with each dish. 
Bear in mind that those remaining over 
will quickly mould and be worthless un- 
less at once replaced in the liquor in 
the bottle and corked down. 

Serve them as soon as possible after 
opening. 

HONEY.— The sweet juices of plants 
collected from flowers by honey bees and 
by them put into the cells of honey 
combs. Sweet flowers give the honey a 
pleasant taste, others only a bad and un- 
wholesome taste. The best honey is 
made by young bees, and is a clear, white 
fluid which is sometimes called virgin 
honey. Older honey gets darker in color. 

Honey is used for sweetening tobacco 
and is also made into a wine called mead. 

—PROPERTIES OF CEREALS— 

Food in which fecula abounds: Salop, 
rice, sago, corn, barley, arrowroot, tapio- 
ca. 

In which fecula abounds combined with 
a sweet substance: Oatmeal, buckwheat, 
peas, lentils, beans, chestnuts. 

Where fecula is combined with an oily 
substance: Almonds, nuts, cocao, pis- 
tachios. 

Where fecula is united with gluten: 
Wheat, rye, barley. 

—PROPERTIES OF ROOTS— 

Roots containing a quantity of sugar: 
Beets, carrots, turnips, parsnips, chest- 
nuts. 

Mucilaginous roots containing a milky 
juice: Salsify, viper's grass, Jerusalem 
artichokes. 

-PROPERTIES OF VEGETABLES— 

Alimentary vegetables containing a 
slimy juice: Beets, spinach, purslain, 
corn, salad. 

Alimentary vegetables containing a 
bitter extractive matter combined with a 
milky juice: Lettuce, endive, chicory, 
escarole. 

Vegetables containing a bitter extrac- 
tive substance: Artichokes, cardoons, 
beetroots. f 

Vegetables only eatable when first 
ripe: Asparagus, hops, capers. 

Vegetables containing an ammoniacal 
substance: Radishes, horseradish, cabbage,, 
cauliflower, watercress, nasturtium. 

Vegetables in which the mucilage is- 
combined with a volatile substance: Gar- 
lic, onion, shallot, leek, chives, chervil. 

Vegetables containing an aromatic 
principle: Parsley, chervil, celery, fennel, 
thyme, savoy, tansy, basil, tarragon, pim- 
pernel, bayleaf, wormwood, mint, sage,, 
balsam, rosemary, marjoram. 



IG 



ONE OUNCE OF CABBAGE SEED GIVES 2,500 PLANTS. 



Vegetables haviug the mucilaga com- 
bined with an acid: Sorrel, oxalis. 



—PROPERTIES OF VEGETABLE 
PLANTS— 

Cucubitaceous plants: Melon, water- 
melon, pumpkin, cucumber, squash. 

Solanaceous plants: Potatoes, toma- 
toes, egg-plant. 

Fungus: Mushrooms, morils, cipes, 
truffles. 

VEGETABLES. — Are a light food of 
variable taste, and with the exception of 
a few rare cases are considered most 
healthful, although not very nourishing. 
Vegetables can be prepared in sis or 
seven different ways: Baked, boiled, 
broiled, fried, mashed, with gravy and 
in salad. 

FARINACEOUS VEGETABLES.— 
Are dried green vegetables, containing a 
large proportion of flour. They are in- 
digestible and not very nourishing; usu- 
ally used for soups. They include beans, 
lentils, dried peas, kidney beans, etc^" 

WINTER VEGETABLES.— If there is 
space in one's home to store winter vege- 
tables it is decidedly more economical to 
buy such ones as carrots, turnips, onions, 
potatoes, beets and parsnips in large quan- 
tities in the autumn and store them for 
winter use. The vegetables should be 
buried either in sand or straw to keep 
them free from frost. If placed in a dry 
room they will keep for a long time. 

Onions should be kept hung in a cool, 
dry place. Apples should be spread out on 
a flat surface, covered thickly with straw, 
not close enough to touch one another. 
Remove the decayed ones at once. 

ARTICHOKES— A plant used for food, 
supposed to have come first from Asia. 
The flower-heads are boiled and the lower 
fleshy part of the leaves are eaten; also 
the soft bottoms, which are used in fine 
cooking. 

JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES.— Ts a 
kind of sunflower with a root like a potato; 
this is boiled or eaten raw cut up with 
vinegar and salt. 

ASPARAGUS.— Is a healthy, light 
vegetable, very easy to digest. These are 
cooked from twenty to thirty minutes in 
boiling water containing a handful of salt. 
Watch the exact time of their becoming 
tender and take them up that instant. 
Serve winh any desired sauce. 

Asparagus purifies the blood. 

BEANS. — The seed of several kinds of 
plants which bear pods. There are many 
kinds with seeds of different shapes, sizes 
and colors, some grow on running vine^ 
and some on shrubs. The French kidney 
bean, or haricot and the Lima bean are 



the seeds of plants entirely different from 
<hfc common bean. 

CABBAGE.— Is heavy, acid and indi- 
gestible. It is rendered more wholesome 
by being boiled in two waters, because it 
contains an oil which is apt to produce 
bad effects and prevents some persons 
from eating any green vegetables. When 
boiled iu two waters, the greater part of 
this oil if. carried away. 

CARROTS.— Whether used purposely 
for seasoning a dish or as a vegetable, is 
refreshing, easy to digest, and beneficial 
to those having liver trouble. Like other 
garden vegetables, cooked more or less 
alike by putting into boiling water and 
kept at a rapid boil until tender, the length 
of time varying according to the freshness, 
size and degree of maturity. If vegetables 
are a minute or two too long over the fire 
they lose their beauty and flavor, and are 
indigestible if not thoroughly boiled. 

CAULIFLOWER.— Is much more di- 
gestible and much more delicate than the 
cabbage, although of the same family. It 
must be well cleansed to free it of worms, 
and when boiling add a little milk to the 
water, which will improve its color. Cauli- 
flowers discolor if boiled too long. 

CELERY.— Celery when old has me- 
dicinal virtues, being an active nervine. 
It is known to be an excellent remedy for 
neuralgia and rheumatism. The seeds 
dried and pulverized make celery salt, and 
this mixed with powdered pepsin, makes 
an invaluable remedy for many kinds of 
dyspepsia. Several new medicines are 
now extracted from the plant. The outer 
green leaves can be dried and powdered 
and then used for flavoring. The root, 
washed and boiled, is a very wholesome 
and palatable dish. Raw celery is a fine 
appetizer, and a delicious vegetable either 
boiled, fried, baked or steamed. 

CHICORY.— When cooked this is a 
healthy vegetable, and on account of its 
bitter taste is a tonic, besides being re- 
freshing and anti-bilious. Raw in a salad 
it is not good to eat when the stomach is 
in a disordered condition. 

NO. 2 CHICORY.— The wild endive, 
having a thick, milky root, which when 
cut up and dried, roasted and ground, is 
used either for coffee or mixed with 
coffee. Too constant use of it brings on 
nervousness. 

CUCUMBER. — Eaten ponerallv raw 
in a salad, is a heavy, indigestible vege- 
table, disagreeing with a great many peo- 
ple. The smaller ones intended for 
pickling should never be eaten in their 
raw state. However, fresh cut cucumbers 
cool the system. 

EGG PLANT.— Is a light, digestible 



ONE OUNCE OF TOMATO SEED GIVES 2,500 PLANTS, 



17 



vegetable, which roquires plenty of sea- 
soning to make it lasty. 

GREEN PEAS. — These, when fresh 
and have been quickly grown, are a de- 
licious vegetable being both sweet and 
<;risp, and retain these qualities by being 
merely boiled in salt and water, but when 
a little older they become coarse and 
tough, losing their flavor and sweetness. 
They will then require a more elaborate 
preparation, and a little sugar can be 
added to advantage. 

All green peas can be made appetizing 
if treated properly. 

HORSERADISH.— Scrape it only just 
before it is required, for it possesses a 
peculiar volatile oil which quickly evap- 
orates and leaves the vegetable substance 
dry and msipid. 

LEEK, — The leek has no bulb, but the 
stem thickens somewhat like one. It is 
of a milder flavor than an onion, and is 
much used in cooking. 

LETTUCE.— Cooked lettuce is easy to 
digest, and contains soothing, refreshing 
and calming properties, and can be ob- 
tained, although small, all the year round. 
Raw lettuce is one of the easiest digested 
salads that exists. Lettuce produces sleep, 
especially if the stalk be eaten. 

ONION. — A bulbous root much used as 
an article of food. It is a biennial herba- 
ceous plant, with long tubulated leaves 
and a swelling, pithy stalk. The peculiar 
flavor varies much according to the size 
of the bulb, the small reddish onions being 
much more pungent than the larger ones. 
There are at least twenty varieties. They 
are recommended for the cure of dropsical 
swellings. 

OYSTER PLANT OR SALSIFY.— 
This belongs to the lettuce family, the 
roots alone being eaten. It is very digesti- 
ble and useful in winter, when other veg- 
etables are scarce. 

POTATO.— The potato is a useful vege- 
table and requires to be treated with care. 
On account of the large amount of starchy 
substance it contains, when eaten to ex- 
cess, it swells the stomach and causes 
dilatation and constipation, especially for 
those leading a sedentary life. Potatoes 
are often spoiled in cooking by being al- 
lowed to absorb steam and become sodden. 
They should be drained as soon as tender, 
dried out for a few moments, sprinkled 
with salt, and the saucepan covered close- 
ly with a towel until they are served; then 
sent to the table in a napkin. Potatoes 
should not be eaten by those disposed to 
get stout and many who suffer from de- 
rangement of the liver eschew them alto- 
gether. 

SWEET POTATOES.— These are ex- 

■oeedingly healthy, possessing all the qual- 



ities and defects of the ordinary potato, 
meaning that if abused of they are in- 
jurious for those suffering from gastric 
trouble or constipation. 

PUMPKIN.— The fruit of the pumpkin 
is red and sometimes acquires the diam- 
eter of two feet. There are two varieties 
of the plant, one with roundish, the other 
with oblong fruit. This fruit is eaten in 
a cooked state. 

RADISHES.— Raw, eaten with salt or 
sliced and served with oil and vinegar, is 
a very indigestible, heavy food, and should 
never be given to the sick, although they 
are considered good for those troubled 
with gravel. 

SORREL.— This vegetable should never 
be eaten by those complaining of gout, 
gravel, gastralgia, skin diseases, rheuma- 
tism and liver troubles. As a soup it is a 
laxative. 

SPINACH.— Is one of the most healthy 
vegetables, and is an excellent food for 
the sick and convalescent, especially those 
leading a sedentary life, as it is laxative 
and anti-bilious. The leaves are boiled 
and eaten. Spinach is supposed to have 
been first grown in Western Asia, and 
brought into Spain by the Arabs, then 
carried to different parts of Europe. 

SQUASH.— The same family as the 
pumpkin and melon, the chief kinds be- 
ing the round flat ones, with scalloped 
edges, called crook-necks. The best win- 
ter squashes are the Boston marrow and 
the Hubbard. The summer squashes are 
generally called the bush squashes. 

STRING BEANS.— Select small, ten- 
der, stringless beans, split them length- 
wise in two and let cook for a long time. 
Their freshness is known by breaking a 
bean in two, the stalk should not bend, 
but snap off at once, the bean to be firm 
on the outside and watery inside. If not 
quite fresh throw them into a basin of 
cold water with a little salt dissolved m 
it, and as the beans are cleaned and 
stringed, throw them in, then boil from 
twenty to thirty minutes in boiling salted 
water. 

Beans have a strengthening quality. 

TOMATOES.— On account of its ex- 
treme acidity this vegetable is forbidden 
to those suffering from rheumatism, gout, 
gravel, eczema, gastralgia, dyspepsia, 
etc. 

TRUFFLES.- A truffle is more of an 
animal than a vegetable production, re- 
sulting from the sting of an insect on 
the root of various species of the oak, the 
same as the gall nut is the sting of an- 
other insect on the leavis of the same 
tree. The truflle, like the mushroom is 
one of the most favored of culinary prod- 
ucts, admired for the peculiar aroma it 



IS 



THERE ARE 36 CHANCES UPON TWO DICE. 



imparts to those dishes with which it is 
ccmbiiied. 

TUKNirS.— The turnip belongs to the 
cabljiiije family, the rjots being eaten iu- 
Btead of the leaves. Although more di- 
gesuule than otlier cabbageii, s>till it 
causes acidity and should only be given 
to those having healthy stumacas. In 
soup it is quiie inoffensive and imparts an 
agreeable taste. 

"WATEUCUESS.— The watercress con- 
LiJiis very many sanitary and medical 
qualities. A curious characteristic of it 
is that if grown in a ferruginous stream, 
it absorbs into itself five times the iron 
tliat any other plant does. It also con- 
tains proportions of garlic and sulphur of 
iodine and phwsphates, and is therefore 
u.ost valuable as a bh'od punher. 

FAMILY MARKETING.— The best 
plan for a thrifty housewife is to do her 
cwu mariceting, and learn by experience 
which are tne best pieces and how to 
purchase them at the lowest price. 

Endeavor to vary the day's provisions, 
buy Ihosj most suitable to the season, 
and thoso that are most enjoyable to the 
taste of the family. Always consider 
which are the most profitable joints, and 
never be tempted by very low prices, for 
as a rule the marked down pieces have 
much bone and fat, and consequently are 
ihe m< St extravagant in the end. 

Marketing economically dees not mean 
purchasing things at the cheapest rate, 
it really involves the higher talent of 
choosing wisely and well. 

Generally speaking it is a good plan to 
deal at one place; if the butcher is an 
honest one he will recommend what cuts 
are the best. Meat that has been frozen 
should be thawed before being cooked, 
this is done by placing it in a warm 
kitchen for a few hours previous to us- 
ing It. Allow a longer time to cook 
frozen meat than would be necessary for 
freshly killed meat. 

POULTRY.— Avoid all poultry that 
has even a very slight purple tinge show- 
ing through the skin of the thigh, as 
this denotes age, and consequently will 
be tough. 

J"'owls, geese, ducks and turkeys which 
Lave broken breasts should be looked up- 
on with suspicion, for the chances are 
that they are stale. 

Fowls and chickens should have plump 
breasts, fat backs and white legs. The 
tip of the breast bone of all poultry is 
tender when under nine months old. After 
this it becomes hard. Never purchase 
the same sort of fowl for a fricassee as 
you would for roasting, the former may 
be a year and a half old, and is much 
cheaper than the year old one required for 
roasting. 

A fowl is the female of the cock. 



smaller and having different kind of 
feathers. 

A chicken is a young cock after the 
down is replaced by feathers. It is a 
cock after five or six weeks. Young hen 
is a young fowl not yet having laid eggs. 

A fat pullet is a young fowl; its ovaries 
are extracted so it cannot lay any more; 
in this way it fattens, and its meat be- 
comes tender and delicate. 

A capon is a castrated chicken over 
six weeks old, its reproducing faculties 
having been removed. 

DUCKS. — They should have supple 
feet, and plump breasts; the fat ones are 
the most tender and juicy. 

Tame ducks have yellow feet, wild 
ones red. The most popular wild ducks 
are the canvas-back, the mallard, and 
the red head; these are also the most ex- 
pensive and come under the head of 
game. 

GEESE. — A good goose should have a 
pluiup breast, clean wliite skin, yellow 
feet (the red ones are old), and the upper 
bill should be easily broken across with 
the finger and thumb. The feet in an 
old bird will also have a coarse, well- 
v/crn look about them. 

When possible, if the weather be 
favorable, hang them for a few days; it 
improves the flavor. The fat of the 
goose «r "goose grease" is much valued, 
and is frequently used for medicinal pur- 
poses. 

Green geese are those from two to four 
mouths old. 

PIGEONS.— These should be young 
and perfectly fresh. See that their feet 
are smooth and pliable, and the birds fat 
and plump. If the feet are rough and 
dry they are old and will be tough, and 
not even satisfactory for a stew. 

TURKEY. — To select, draw and pre- 
pare for the table: Always bear in mind 
that those with black feathers are the 
best, also that the hen-turkey, though 
smaller than the cock, is considered the 
best flavored and most delicate and 
should alwa.i s be chosen for boiling. 
Other signs to guide you are that the eyes 
must be full and clear, the wattles a 
bright olor, the legs black and smooth, 
and the feet soft and supple. 

In the cock bird take care that the 
spurs are short. Old birds, like old 
fowls, are only fit for stewing or for 
stock. Hang them for at least a week, or 
they will be neither tender nor white- 
fleshed. Of course if tiie weather is mild 
and damp, three or four days will sufBce 
for on no account mr.st they be the least 
"high." 

To draw after singeing and cutting off 
the head, draw it the same as a fowl only 
more strength is required. The great 
difficulty 5s to draw the sinews from the 



THE STRENGTH OF FIVE MEN" IS EQUAL TO ONE HORSE. 



.19 



legs; this is imperative as otherwise the 
drumsticks are uneatable. Cut through 
the skin only at about one inch below tJe 
leg joint, bend the kg backwards at the 
joint till you have disjointed it, then 
hang the bird through the foot on a 
strong hook and next bring all your 
strength to bear on it, when it will come 
away with the sinews hanging in a 
fringe round it. 

GIBLETS.— The giblets ar« the less 
valuable parts of the meat, if not in taste 
at least in nourishment. Some are con- 
sidered too heavy or too fat to use for 
food. 

In butcher's meat, the g'blets are the 
brains, tongue, head, feet, liver, heart, 
crow, lights, kidneys. 

m poultry the giblets ore, the neck, 
head, feet, pinions, bones, gizzard, liver 
and heart. 

Giblets of fowl are as a general rule an 
excellent food for sick people and con- 
valescents, those with weak stomachs, 
and children. A very good broth is made 
from giblets alone or combined with other 
meats, 

BACON. — ^The best bacon is fine in the 
grain and of a bi'ight pink, the fat firm 
and quite white. Should the lean be very 
highly colored, the chances are that it is 
old and oversalted. Bacon, having yellow 
marks in the fat and a slight musty odor 
must be looked upon with suspicion. 

PARTS OF BACON.— The cured sides 
of the hog; the thin parts of the ribs and 
belly make the best bacon. 

TO CURE BACON.— Rub into the 
flesh a mixture of eight parts of salt, and 
one part of saltpetre every day for three 
weeks, keeping the meat always in a cool 
place; a little brown sugar is an im- 
provement. After the salting is done, dry 
or smoke the bacon. 

HAM. — The rind should be thin, the 
meat a fine red and the fat firm. To find 
out the state of a ham, plunge a skewer 
or knife steel as far down as the bone, 
and if when withdrawing it particles of 
meat adhere to it, or it has a disagreeable 
smell, then reject it, as the ham is bad. 

Always select a small ham in prefer- 
once to a large one 

BEEF. — It is of the greatest con- 
sideration that a housekeeper should be 
able to distinguish good from inferior 
meat. Of course it needs some experi- 
ence, but if certain rules be borne in 
mind, and the best use made of the eyes, 
it will soon become easy to select the 
best — which is always the most economi- 
cal in the end. The best beef should 
have the lean of a bright red color and 
firm and elastic to the touch. Fine veins 
of fat should rwio mingle with the lean, 
jgiying it a mottled appearance. 



The fat should be of a yellowish tint. 
The suet fat, that which suri-ouuds the 
kidney, should be firm, dry and of a 
pinkish tinge. 

In dry weather beef may bt^ hung for 
some days, but it soon spoils if the 
weather be at all damp. The sirloin is 
the best joint and is almost invariably 
roasted. Some consider it wasteful and 
many prefer for a family the top sirloio 
or round without bone or much fat. 

For steaks those from the sirloin are 
considered the best for broiling or the 
ttnderloin steaks cut from under the sir- 
loin: these are exceedingly tender. The 
porterhouse steak is the most used 
where economy is not considered. Rump 
and round steaks are the cheapest as they 
contain no bone. The brisket is cheap, 
and is excell-ent when braised. 

LAMB. — Lamb is considered in its 
finest condition when at)out tw© months 
old. 

The freshness of lamb can bo ascer- 
tained by the fullness and brightness of 
the eyes of the animal, by the blue, and 
in part bright red of the vein of the neck, 
which must have no suspicion of green 
about it, and also by the firmness and 
whiteness of the kidney fat. 

If it is at all discolored it is a sign the 
lamb is not freshly killed. 

All young meat is less nourishing and 
digestible than old, although in this re- 
spect lamb is better than veal. Always 
remember that as a rule the flesh of young 
animals requires more cooking than older 
ones to rendtr it digestible. 

MUTTON. — When buying mutton 
choose the leg, for although dearer, the 
meat is more solid as it contains very 
little bone. 

Both the shoulder and neck are ex- 
travagant, not as regards price, but be- 
cause half the weight consists of bone and 
fat. 

The breast is cheaper, for it can be 
boned and stuffed. 

Good mutton is very nutritious and 
easily digested. 

Avoid coarse, stringy mutton with little 
fat; it should be firm, closely grained, red- 
dish in color, and the fat hard and white. 
If too young the flesh has a tender feel- 
ing, if too old it wrinkles up when 
pinched. 

Its fat cannot be used for cooking on 
account of its strong flavor. 

PORK. — When selecting pork ascer- 
tain whether it is in good condition, or it 
is not wholesome. Never keep it long 
uncooked as it soon becomes tainted. 
Good pork should be a pale, pinky-white 
color, the fat white just tinged with pink. 
The flesh fine and firm; if it is at all 
flabby or clammy to the touch it is not 
fresh. 



20 



CRUSTACEANS HAVE TEETH WITHIN THE STOMACH, 



When the pig is old thft skin is hard 
and touffh, and reject it if there are any 
little kernels in the tat. 

Small or medium sized pork is gen- 
erally better than the large. 

VEAL. — When choosing veal see that 
the flesh is a d-elicato pink, the fat white 
and that there is plenty of it. 

Notice especially the whiteness of the 
fat round the kidney, as this indicates 
whether the meat is prime. Veal will 
not keep as long as older meat, its fat 
softens and moistens, and the meat gets 
flabby, spongy and spotted. 

The loin and best end of the neck are 
usually roasted, though the latter is 
wasteful on account of its bone. 

The fillet is the most economical joint 
for roasting if for a large family, also 
the cutlets. Many are not aware that 
veal suet is much more delicate than 
beef, and may always take its place. 

Veal is neither nutritious nor digesti- 
ble. 

VENISON. — The haunch is the best 
part to use, choose it with clear, bright 
and thick fat, and see that the cleft of the 
hoof be smooth and close; the more fat 
there is the better is the meat. Run a 
sharp skewer into the meat close to the 
bone, and when withdrawn its sweetness 
can be judged of. Keep it perfectly dry 
by wiping it with clean cloths till not 
the least damp remains, then sprinkle 
over pepper or ginger as a preventative 
against the fly. When required for use, 
wash it in warm water, dry it well with 
a cloth, butter a sheet of white paper, lay 
it on, and tie down firmly, then roast the 
haunch. Serve with very hot plates, as 
the fat soon chills. The neck and 
shoulder may be roasted in the same man- 
ner. 

TO COOK MEAT— Meat contains 
protein and fat, the former being the most 
valuable ingredient of food. All com- 
pounds containing nitrogen are called pro- 
tein. All the protein and nearly all the 
fat of meat are digested by a healthy 
person. The reason we cook meats is to 
loosen and soften the tissues, making 
digestion more easy; at the same time to 
kill the small germs contained in most 
animal matter. Cooking also coagulates 
the blood and albumen, making it more 
palatable to the taste. Meat intended for 
a meal should be either roasted, braised, 
broiled or fried, as in this way all the 
juices are saved and it is more nutritious 
than when boiled or stewed. 

TO BOIL MEAT.— Tt is to be borne in 
mind that it is impossible to obtain both 
a rich broth and at the same time a well 
flavored piece of meat, one or the other 
has to be sacrificed. 

If the meat is intended for eating, then 
plunge it into boiling water and keep it 



at the boiling point for ten minutes, then 
after skimming it thoroughly, let it sim- 
mer gently, and the meat will be tender 
and juicy instead of dry and tough, as it 
would have been had it been kept on a 
liard boil. Remember always that the 
slower the meat boils the tenderer, 
plumper and whiter it will be, 

TO BRAISE MEAT.— To braise any 
kind of meat, put it into a stewpan of a 
proportionate size to hold it, having the 
bottom of it covered with slices of fat 
pork, veal or other meat. Season and 
cover with more fat pork, etc., then add 
such vegetables as carrots, onions and a 
bunch of parsley. Moisten with a very 
little broth, cover it closely to prevent all 
the evaporation possible and place the 
sauce pan where it will cook very slowly. 
This way the meat retains all its juices 
and the liquid will reduce to a glaze. 
Braised meats are tender, easy to carve, 
and as they contain all their own juice, 
they are nourishing and easy to digest. 

Another way, and even simpler, is to 
cover the bottom of the pan with a few 
sliced onions and carrots, fry these slight- 
ly in butter; then lay in the meat, and 
when browned on both sides, cover to half 
its height with water or broth, bring to a 
boil, cover and let cook slowly on the fire 
or in the oven after seasoning properly. 
When well cooked and the liquid is re- 
duced, take out the meat, strain the gravy, 
if too oily add a very little water, remove 
all the fat, and thicken with a little flour 
and cornstarch dissolved in cold water. 
Put back the meat and let simmer slowly 
for fifteen minutes. Serve the meat and 
strain the gravy over. 

TO BROIL MEAT.— The same rule 
holds good for broiling as for roasting re- 
garding the heat. A steak requires to be 
cooked for ten minutes over a very in- 
tense fire; it will then be properly cooked 
and yet be juicy and rare when cut. Add 
salt to broiled meats after cooking only. 

TO FRY MEAT.— Prying meat is the 
most objectionable manner of preparing 
it, as the fat employed undergoes chem- 
ical changes. If the meat is very juicy 
it will not fry well, because it becomes 
sodden before the water is evaporated, 
and will not brown because the tempera- 
ture is too low to scorch it. Meat should 
be frequently turned during frying to pro- 
mote the evaporation of the watery par- 
ticles. 

TO ROAST MEAT.— Roasted meat is 
more digestible than boiled meats. The 
smaller the piece to be roasted, the hotter 
should be the fire. When a piece of meat 
is put into a very hot oven, or before a 
very hot fire, the coagulation forms a 
thick crust on the outside, and prevents 
the inside juice from drying up. Frequent 
Imsting is necessary, using the fat that 



IN" SERPENTS AND EISH BOTH JAWS ARE MOVABLE, 



21 



has exuded from the meat and a little salt 
and vrater — otherwise the meat will burn 
and become hard and tasteless. 

TO SAUTE MEAT. — Corresponding 
with the English term of "toss," v/hich 
means to fry lightly or partially in butter 
iisiita: a shallow pan and moving the ma- 
terial to be fried, or, rather, "tossed," so 
as to p. void the production of a temperature 
high enough to brown the surface — a con- 
dition which is intended to be produced by 
frying; that is, by immersing the material 
in heated oil. 

TO STEW MEAT.— In stews, as both 
the broth and meat are to be used, then 
the pi'ocess is different from boiling. 
The meat should be cut into small pieces 
and put into cold water so as to dissolve 
as much of the juice and natural material 
as possible. Let the stew simmer only at 
a temperature of not higher than 180 de- 
grees Fahrenheit, otherwise the meat will 
be dry and fibrous. A higher temperature 
will change the tissues into gelatine and 
be partly dissolved away, and the meat 
will fall to pieces when touched with a 
fork. Less liquid is used for stewing than 
for boiling; the meat need not be covered, 
because the moderate heat required for 
stewing wastes little by evaporation. It 
is better to cook the vegetables separately 
and add them afterwards to the stew, this 
removes their acrid taste. 

TO SKIM MEAT.— When the water is 
coming to a boil, a scum will always rise 
to the top, proceeding partly from the 
imourities of the meat, and partly from 
the water. This must be carefully re- 
moved as soon as it rises, otherwise the 
meat and the broth will have a muddy, 
dirty appearance. After skimming it well, 
throw in a little cold water, and the rest 
of the scum will rise. The more it is 
skimmed and the clearer the surf a c? of 
the water is kept, the cleaner will be the 
meat. If not taken off, this scum boils 
down and settles on the meat, giving it a 
coarse appearance. 

ALBUMEN. — Albumen is of the same 
nature as the white of egg; it is soluble in 
cold or lukewarm water, and coagulates in 
a degree of heat below the boiling point. 
Albumen is in blood and in all parts of the 
flesh. It is albumen that coagulates after 
being dissolved that forms the scum on 
the top of the liquid in which meats are 
cooked. If meats should be put in boil- 
ing water and this allowed to cook rapidly, 
the albumen which is the nutritive prin- 
ciple of meat, coagulates on the surface of 
the water and prevents the gelatin and 
Gsmazone from dissolving, thereby pro- 
ducing a very insipid broth having no sub- 
stantial foundation. The white of eggs 
contains twelve per cent, of albumen, and 



the fluid portion of blood seven per cent. 
The uses of albumen are numerous. It is 
necessary for clarifying wines, liquors, 
soups, broth and for sugar refining. It is 
a constituent of all animal fluids and 
solids. Photographers use albumen for 
preparing paper for printing. For mak- 
ing varnish both egg and blood albumen 
are employed, sometimes replaced by 
caseiue. 

FIBRIN is coagulated albumen. It 
occurs in the vegetable kingdom, in the 
sap or juice of many plants, such as the 
potato, turnip, carrot, cabbage, in the 
green stem of peas, in the seeds of cereal 
grasses, and in many nuts. Fibrin is in- 
soluble. When a large piece of meat has 
been boiling for a long time in plenty of 
water, what remains of it is pure fibrin. 
It has little nourishment, no taste, and is 
diflBcult to digest. 

GELATIN.— This can only be dissolved 
in boiling or very hot water. In lukewarm 
water it swells, but does not dissolve com- 
pletely; in cold water it softens without 
dissolving. It is the nutritious part of 
broth, and when enough of it is used it 
causes the liquid to jellify when cold. 
Gelatin exists in all meats, but principally 
in gristle and bones. Pure gelatin is in- 
sipid to the taste. 

OSMAZONE.— Is very soluble, even 
when cold, and is the tastable parts of 
the meat. It seems to exist only in the 
flesh and blood; gristle, fat and bones are 
entirely free of it. It is the osmazone that 
gives the peculiar characteristic flavor to 
broths; it is stimulating, excites the appe- 
tite and makes digestion easy. 

BONE. — Bone is chiefly made up of 
gelatin, a kind of tasteless and colorless 
jelly, of phosphate of lime, which com- 
prises half its weight, and some other 
earthy matter. When animals eat grasses 
and plants, the salts of them are formed 
into bone. 

FAT. — Is insoluble in water, but melts 
by the heat and arises to the surface of a 
liquid, but as it is enveloped in the cells 
of a very thin skin which does not dis- 
solve, a part of the fat always remains 
adhering to the fibres unless it has been 
boiled for a long time, then it breaks away 
from the skin and comes to the surface. 
The fat is separate from the flesh in m^iny 
parts of the animal, while in other parts 
it is mingled with the fibres. Tiiis is the 
most nourishing and the most digestible. 

ECONOMICAL JOINTS OF BEEF.— 
Round of beef, or top side, is economical 
for a large family, it being solid meat. 

Leg of beef is only used for making 
soup stock, or the lean part is used for 
stews; only buy a few pounds at a time, 
not a whole leg. 



22 



ALL HAIR IS HOLLOW AXD CYLINDRICAL. 



Ribs go further if boned and rolled. 
Use the boues for soups. 

Porterhouse or rumpsteak is best for 
broiling. 

Roundsteak is good for stews. 

Skirtsteak makes good pies and pud- 
dings and is very cheap. 

The aitch bone may be almost as dear 
as the sirloin when a huge piece of bone is 
left in it. 

ECONOMICAL JOINTS OF MUT- 
TON.— Loins of mutton are more expen- 
sive than the leg. 

Legs of mutton are the most economical 
of all, even when the shankbone is left 
on and weighed, for loins have more bone 
and fat. 

The neck of mutton is not cheap, on ac- 
count of the large amount of bone, and as 
it is always very fat. 

Lamb is never very cheap, and in the 
leg the shank and foot is often left on, 
which makes it an expensive joint. 

TIME FOR BROILING MEATS.— A 
rumpsteak one and a half inches thick 
takes eight to ten minutes to broil. 

A tenderloin steak about half a pound 
weight, seven to ten minutes. 

A mutton chop, about five ounces 
weight, eight to ten minutes. 

A veal cutlet about seven ounces 
weight, seven to nine minutes. 

A pork cutlet, about seven ounces 
weight, nine to ten minutes. 

A sheep's kidney, four to ten minutes. 

TIME REQUIRED FOR BOIIING. 
H.M. 
A 20 lb. ham, requires. . .5.30 

A soaked tongue 3.00 

A pickled 2% lb tongue. .3.00 

A. chicken 0.20 

A large fowl 0.45 

A capon 0.35 

A leg of mutton 0.15 per pound. 

Fresh killed meat takes longer to boil 
than that which has been kept to ripen. 
If the meat is frozen, it must be thawed 
before cooking, otherwise it will be tough 
and hard. 

TIME REQUIRED FOR ROASTING. 

BEEF.— Twenty pounds, 4 hours; 10 
pounds, 2 hours; C pounds, 1^2 hours. 

VEAL. — Ten pounds, 8 hours ; 5 pounds, 
2 hours. 

MUTTON.— Ten pounds, 2 hours; 6 
pounds, ll^ hours; 4 pounds, 1 hour. 

PORK (fresh). — Eight pounds, 3 hours; 
4 pounds, 1% hours. 

LAMB. — Saddle or hind quarter, 2 
hours ; fore quarter, 1 hour. 

TURKEY (stuffed). — Twc hours, me- 
dium, lYi hours. 

CAPON.— One hour. 



PULLET. — One and one-quarter hours. 
CHICKEN.— One hour. 
GUINEA FOWL.— Three-quarters hour. 
GOOSE. — One and one-half hours. 
GOSLING.— One hour. 
DUCK.— One hour. 
DUCKLING. — Three-quarters hour. 
PIGEON.— One-half hour. 
SQUAB.— Twenty minutes. 
HARE. — One and one-half hours. 
RABBIT.— Three-quarters hour. 
PARTRIDGE —OLe-half hour. 
PHEASANT.— Three-quarters hour. 
SNIPE.— One-half hour. 
WOODCOCK.— Twenty minutes. 
PLOVER. — Twenty minutes. 
TEAL. — Twenty minutes. 
QUAILS.— Twenty minutes. 
LARKS.— Twenty minutes. 
WILD DUCKS.— Twenty minutes. 

LOSS OP MEAT BY BOILING.— The 

loss by boiling varies from 6^ to 16 per 
cent. The average loss on pork, ham, 
bacon and butcher's meat is 12 per cent. 
On domestic poultry, 14% per cent. 

Boiled beef loses 1 podbd in 4 pounds. 

Bailed mutton loses; 14 ounces in 4 
pounds. 

ijegs of mutton, 10 per cent. 

Knuckles of veal, 8 1-3 per cent. 

Turkeys, 16 per cent. 

Chickens, 13i/^ per cent. 

Hams. 121/^ per cent. 

Salt pork, 13 1-3 per cent. 
LOSS OF MEAT BY ROASTING. 

The average loss on butcher's meat is 
22 per cent. 

Roast beef loses 1 pound and 3 ounces 
in 4 pounds. 

Roast mutton loses 1 pound 6 ounces 
in 4. 

Ducks lose 27 1-5 per cent. 

Chickens lose 14 3-5 per cent. 

Geese lose 19 V2 per cent. 

Turkeys lose 20^^ per cent. 

Legs and shoulders of mutton together 
24 4-5 per cent. 

Forequarters of lamb, 22 1-3 per cent. 

The variation of loss may be accounted 
for by the difference in the fatness of the 
meat," and the duration and degree of heat 
employed. 

LOSS OF WEIGHT IN MEATS 
WHILE COOKING.— All meat loses 
weight when cooked, but mutton loses more 
than beef. 

Meat roasted before the fire loses about 
514 ounces to each pound. Meat roasted 
in the oven loses only about dV^. oiuncea 
in a pound. 

Boiled meat loses about 4^4 ounces m 
each pound, but the liquor can be utilized. 



ALL HORNED ANIMALS HAVE CLOVEN FEET. 



23 



THE WEIGHTS OF MEATS FOR A 
HOUSEHOLD OF THREE. 

Sirloins of beef from six to seren pounds 
or even less. 

Steaks, from one and a half to two 
pounds. 

One pound and a half of skirtsteak and 
half a pound of beef kidney for a pie or 
pudding. . 

Legs of mutton, from five to six pounds. 

Shoulders of mutton, from four to five 
pounds. , 

A loin of veal, from four to five pounds. 

A loin of fresh pork, from four to five 
pounds. 

These weights are a guide for other 
joints. 

MEATS AND THEIR ACCOMPANI- 
MENTS. 

Roast beef should be served with grated 
horseradish. 

Roast mutton with currant jelly. 

Boiled mutton with caper sauce. 

Roast lamb with mint sauce. 

Roast pork with apole sauce. 

Roast goose with apple sauce. 

Roast turkey with cranberry sauce. 

Roast game with currant jelly and bread 
sauce. 

Roast venison with currant jelly. 

Broiled fresh mackerel with parsley 

Boiled fresh salmon with cream sauce 
and cucumbers. 

Broiled blue fish with maitre d hotel 
sauce. 

REMARKS ON GAME. 

Woodcock, snipe, plovers and ortolans 
are never drawn. 

Hen birds are usually the most tender. 

Pheasants need hanging longer than most 
birds. 

Woodcock spoil if hung long. 

Never wash the bird, merely wipe with 
a clean, damp cloth. 

Hang no game for long in damp 
ireather. 

Wild duck and teal are liked when un- 
derdone. 

Baste all game frequently. 

A slice of fat bacon tied over the breast 
prevents dryness. 

Serve game on neatly cut toasts, cut in 
divisions suflacient for each person. 

Serve the gravy in a tureen, not in the 
dish. 



AVERAGE TIME FOR COOKING 
GAME. 

Pheasants, 40 minutes. 
Grouse, partridges and ptarmigan, 30 
minutes. 



Wild duck, woodcock, ortolans and quail, 
20 minutes. 

Widgeon, teal, snipe and plovers, 15 
minutes. 

STOCKPOT AND STOCKS.-Every 
household should have a stockpot in order 
to follow recipes for all kinds of savory 
dishes where stock is required. 

Many substitute water or water with 
a little meat extract, but this is not satis- 
factory, and a good cook will always have 
on hand material for her ordinary soup, 
sauces, etc. 

The best kind of vessel to use is a deep 
copper pot, tinned inside, having a flat, 
tight fitting lid and a tap at the bottom 
to draw off the stock. These are quite ex- 
pensive, so a large iron saucepan can be 
made to answer the purpose and is most 
frequently used. 

Scald the pot with boiling water and 
soda; next fill it about a quarter full of 
cold water and throw iu one teaspoonful 
of salt. After dinner, look over the scraps 
on the dishes, pick out any good pieces of 
vegetables (not potatoes, for taey turn 
sour); some drops of gravies and sauces, 
outside pieces and trimmings of meat, 
game and poultry, raw and cooked bones, 
bacon bones and rinds. Look these over, 
cut away any fat, dip the bacon rinds in 
boiling water and scrape them. Put all 
these into the pot on a slow part of the 
fire and bring gently to a boil. Let it 
simmer all day, adding more scraps as 
they come in. Turn the contents into a 
china basin at night, clean out the pot 
and leave it without its lid. 

Before putting the stock back to cook, 
take off any fat that has settled on the 
top. Add water whenever required. Once 
a week, or twice in hot weather, strain 
all the stock into another clean pan; put 
it on a quick fire without the lid, boil it 
fast, and skim it well till the stock is 
much darker and looks thick and gluey. 
Then pour it into jars or basins and when 
cold it is like a very stiff brown jelly. 
This is glaze and of great value in the 
kitchen. 

Never put flour or potatoes m the stocK 
or it will not be clear, nor no fish or fish 
sauces must be added. However weak 
the stock may be, it is far better to use 
than water for soups, gravies, etc. 

Meats can be boiled in the stockpot; 
they will be better flavored and their 
juices add to the strength of the stock. 

TO MAKE SOUP.— Lean, fresh beef 
is the best to use; then bones, both the 
rib and the marrow. Soft water is better 
than hard. Put the meat into cold water, 
heat gradually and keep simmering after 
the scum is removed. Let cook for a long 
time to get all the nutriments from the 
bones. Salt and add soup vegetables, con- 
sisting of leek, onion, carrot, celery, turnip 
and parsley, either cut up small or whole 



24 



ELEPHANTS AND HIPPOPOTAMI ARE FOND OF MUSIC. 



if tlie.v hnve to be removed. When done, 
stniin and skim off the fat, then add any 
additions needed. 

Mutton makes a strong initri'tlous soup, 
and veal makes a delicate soup. 

SPECIES OF SOUPS. — Although 
there are many hundreds of soups, with 
titles which denote the numerous varieties, 
analytically there are but five leading 
species, from which all these are pro- 
duced by slight additions and combina- 
tions of flavor. 

1. A clear decoction (weak, or "broth," 
strong or consomme) of meat, of beef, 
veal, sometimes mutton, and of pork in 
the form or ham and bacon. 

2. A clear decoction of fowl. 

3. A clear decoction of game. 

4. A decoction of fish or shell fish. 

5. A decoction of vegetables only, com- 
prising also herbs, roots, grains and fari- 
naceous substances. 

TO CLARIFY WITH EGG WHITES. 
— Whisk the whites in a deep pan to a 
stiff froth, then gradually add a little of 
the liquid to be clarified, and keep whip- 
ping until it is all absorbed, then put the 
whole back into the saucepan, give one 
or two quick boils, and the impurities will 
come to the top; skim and then strain. A 
few drops of h^mon juice will assist the 
operation. 

TO CLARIFY BROWN SOUP.— Re- 
move the fat from the stock, put it into 
a clean saucepan. Cut off every particle 
of fat from half a pound of lean beef, this 
quantity being for two quarts of stock. 
Mince the beef finely or pass it once 
through a chopping machine. Put this 
meat into the soup and let stand for ten 
minutes; whisk all over the fire till it 
boils. 

Add one large carrot, an onion, half a 
turnip and seasoning. After it has boiled 
for twenty minutes, ladle the soup gently 
out of the pan into a clean, fine cloth, tied 
over the legs of a chair turned upside 
down with a basin put under the cloth. 

The soup should now be quite clear. If 
not, reclarify it. 

FISH STOCK.— Put any bones or trim- 
mings of fish into a pan with a small csu-- 
rot, turnip and onion, cut in slices, a 
bouquet of parsley, thyme, marjoram and 
a bayleaf tied together, a few pepper- 
corns, a little salt and enough cold water 
to well cover the fish. Simmer this for 
half au hour, then strain off and use. 

W' HITE STOCK. — Trimmings and 
bones of poultry or rabbits either raw or i 
cooked are a great improvement, but if 
cocked they must not be roasted, or if so 
no burnt bones or brown pieces must be 
put in. Use knuckle of veal instead of 
beef. A slice or two of ham is a good 
iiddition. Make it the same as the brown 
stock. 



ESPAGNOLE OR BROWN SAUCE.— 
This is used for many cooking purposes. 
Melt a quarter of a pound of butter in a 
saucepan, then add four or five tablespoon- 
fnls of flour; stir with a wooden spoon 
till it becomes dark, then let cool a little,, 
and moisten it with broth. Stir in some 
very rich gravy or hot meat juice, set it 
on the side of the range, and add a bunch 
of herbs, cloves, garlic and nutmeg. Cook 
it slowly for three hours, skim, strain 
through a fine sieve and set it aside to 
cool. To be used to enrich sauces, 
stews, etc. 

FRESH FISH.— When fresh fish is 
firm and yet elastic, the eyes bright, and 
the gills a clear red, although it may have 
a fishy odor, yet this is no indication that 
the fish is stale, the above signs being 
infallible as to its freslmess. All fisli 
should be well cleaned before being cooked, 
and still not soddened by too much wash- 
ing. When the fish has a muddy smell 
it can be removed by first cleaning, then 
soaking in strong salt water. Only very 
small fish should be put on to cook in 
hot water; always use cold, and never 
pour water upon the fish, as it is liable 
to break the skin. 

TIME FOR COOKING FISH.— The 
exact time for cooking fish can scarcely 
be given as much depends upon its size 
and species. 

A piece of fresh cod weighing three 
pounds will take from 18 to 20 minutes. 

Salmon takes longer to boil. 

Mackerel from 10 to 12 minutes. 

White flesh fish require less time for 
boiling than dark fish. 

Fish is done when the meat separates 
easily from the bone, testing it with a 
fork. 

It should never boil quickly but merely 
simmer. 

SHELL FISH. — Lobsters, shrimps, 
and prawns should be very stiff; if the 
tail is relaxed instead of being turned 
inwards, and the flesh is soft, then do not 
purchase it, as it has lost its freshness. 
Light lobsters are watery and poor. 
Crabs when fresh have a nice smell; 
never buy either these or lobsters if dead. 

Prawns and shrimps are firm and crisp. 

Oysters when fresh have their shells 
well closed; if open they are dead and 
rot fit to use; the same of mussels and 
clams. 

LOBSTERS.— Are found along the 
Atlantic coast, north of New York, from 
spring to autumn, when they go into 
deeper water to pass the winter. They 
usually weigh from two to five pounds, 
and are chosen more by weight than by 
size; the heaviest are best. The male is 
best for boiling, the flesh being firmer, 
and the shell redder. It is distinguished 
from the female by having a narrower 



THE HAHE IS POND OF THE DRUM. 



25' 



,tail and two fins within the tail are stiff 
and hard. A hen lobster has a broader 
tail; these are chosea for salads ou ac- 
count of their coral. 

Lobsters shed their shells every year, 
and during this time they hide among 
rocks to escape from fishes. 

OYSTERS.— If fresh the shell is firmly 
closed; when open they are dead and un- 
fit for food. This applies to all mollusks, 
such as clams, mussels and scallops. 

To open oysters, place the deep shell 
5n the palm of the left hand, and break 
them on one side with a stabbing knife, 
or if none be handy use a small block 
that the oyster ca.a fit into and stab it 
• ©n the edge. 

The varieties of oysters are Blue 
Points, E-ist River,3, Shrewsburys, Mill 
Ponds, Boston Bays. 

Oysters are eaten only during the 
mouths containing the letter R, abstain- 
ing from them in May, June, July, 
August. 

SNAILS.— As these are a difficult task 
to prepare at home, it is advisable to pur- 
chase them at an establishment where 
delicatessen foods are kept, as they are 
then ready to warm up merely in the oven. 
Snails are used for a broth to be given to 
consumptive patients. 

TERRAPIN.— Like lobsters and crabs, 
the terrapin is thrown alive into boiling 
water, and boiled till the outer shell and 
toe nails can be removed. Then wash and 
boil it in salted water till the fleshy part 
oi: the leg is tender. Put the terrapin 
in a deep dish, take off the second shell, 
aemove the sandbag and gall bladder, and 
cut off the spongy part, then cut up the 
meat and cook it as required. 

TURTLE, HOW TO DRESS.— Take 
the opportunity when the head is out to 
cut it off, before it has a chance to draw 
it in again. This should be done the night 
before it is wanted. Save the blood. Next 
morning cut off the fins with a sharp, clean 
knife, then take off the head, being care- 
ful to hit the exact joint, thereby avoiding 
jags in the flesh. Cut the hind fins at the 
joint ; give them a slight twist, and they 
will come off easily. Divide the callipash 
or back shell from the calipee or belly 
shell at about two inches round the calipee, 
which is some of the prime of the turtle. 
Take out the entrails with care not to 
injure the gall bladder; throw the inwards 
into a vessel of cold water, wash them well, 
Jr)pen them from end to end with a pen- 
knife, draw them several times through 
fi cloth to cleanse them, then put them 
into fresh, cold water till ready for use. 

The meat from the calipee should be cut 
in pieces the size of the palm of the hand, 
and the lungs, kidneys, etc., cleared from 
the back shell. Put the shells and fins into 
I scalding water until the scales can be 



scraped off with a knife, and all the meat 
be taken clean off. Keep the different 
parts of the turtle separate, ready for use. 
BASTINGS.-l, butter; 2, clarified 
suet ; 3, water and salt ; 4, broth. 

BROWNINGS.— Burnt or fried flour, 
burnt onions or burnt sugar cau be used 
for this purpose. 

Onion skins are also useful, as they 
contam much coloring and very little flavor. 

Burnt sugar is loaf sugar dissolved 
o\er the fire in an iron spoon ; this is called 
caramel. 

There are several colorings that can be 
purchased, either in liquid or in solid form. 

DREDGINGS.— This consists of cover- 
ing with bread crumbs or raspings, meats 
and fish that are to be broiled or fried 
The principal dredgings are: flour, cracker 
dust, sifted grated bread or grated bread 
browned in the oven, and mingled with fine 
herbs, salt and spice, called bread rasp- 
ings. 

SEASONINGS.— Salt, whole or ground 
pepper (black and white), cayenne, all- 
spice, nutmeg, mace, cloves, ginger, cinna- 
mon, celery salt and paprika. 

crfr^^F^S,^'^^^^ O^ LIAISONS FOR 
bUUFb. — These consist of flour, arrow- 
root, cornstarch, bread crumbs, sago, rice 
barley, maize, macaroni, vermicelli, Italian 
paste and oatmeal. These must all b& 
added to soups while they are boiling in 
order to burst the starch granules. Floury 
substances are to be mixed smooth in a 
ittle cold water, milk or broth, before 
bemg added. 

Eggs must be beaten, with a little of the 
warm liquid, and not allowed to boil or 
they curdle. Butter added at the last mo- 
ment before serving is sometimes called a 
liaison, but it is not a thickening. 

THE KITCHEN.— Arrange the kitchen 
so as to save as many steps as possible. 
Have table, range and shelves so near that 
there is but a step or two between them. 
Put a shelf for flour, sugar and spice box 
over or under the table, and one for 
flavorings, rolling pin, baking powder, salt, 
pepper and baking dishes close by. 

If you use lamps, have a shelf" for them 
over the sink, keeping the oilcan beneath. 

Pails and household tools should be kept 
near the range. 

Pour boiling soda water down the sink 
at least twice a week to clear the pipe of 
all fatty matter. 

Scald all wooden tubs constantly. 

Keep the tinware dry. 

The utensils' one needs are few, but these 
mu.st be had. 

Have saucepans kept on the pot stand or 
shelf, turned downwards with lids off. 

Clean and replace all dirty utensils as 
speedily as possible. 

KITCHEN STORES.-Blaciiiead, blue, 



!S6 



COMPOUND STOMACHS EXIST IN RUMINANT ANIMALS. 



etc., will keep indefinitely, and are cheaper 
boug-ht by the dozen, also kitchen soda. 

Candles. Keep dry. They burn better 
if stored for some time. 

Coffee. Is! better when roasted and 
ground at home. Keep well covered, away 
Irom any spices. 

Hams, etc. To be hung in a dry, cool 
place. 

Herbs. Tie the dried herbs in a muslin 
hag and hang them up. This keeps them 
free of dust. 

Jams, jellies, etc. To be kept in a dry, 
cool place. 

Macaroni will not keep very long. 

Matches. Keep in a drv place. The best 
are the cheapest. 

Oil and vinegar. Buy them in small 
bottles. The oil should be of the best. 

Raisins and currants. These do not 
keep well ; raisins mould and currants 
dry. Buy only a little at the time. 

Rice, and all seeds. Keep closely covered 
to prevent them from insects, in a dry, 
cool place. 

Soap. Should be stored for two or three 
months before using, as it lasts much 
longer when dry. Cut the bars into small- 
ish blocks and place in tiers, one above, thfl 
other, with space for the air to reach and 
dry the blocks. 

Spice and pepper. Should be pur- 
chased in small quantities, as they de- 
teriorate after a time. 

Sugar, Is best bought in small quan- 
tities. It dries and loses flavor with 
keeping. 

Tea. Will keep any length of lime in 
a tin. 

Vegetables. Must be kept on a stone 
floor, if air be excluded. If crowded to- 
gether they will soon spoil and decay. 
String bags or nets are better than a bos 
or basket to keep them in. 

FOR KITCHEN USE.— A few little 
necessities in a well-ordered kitchen should 
always be on hand, and their previous 
preparation will save much time and labor 
when the meals are to be made ready, for 
instance" 

BROWN AND WHITE BREAD 
CRUMBS.— When the bread pau is 
cleared out in the morning, separate the 
state crumbs from the crust of the left 
over loaves, and dry them in the oven, 
tlien pound the bread and crusts separate- 
ly, sift and put away in tins for future 
use. 

MARINADE.— A bottle containing a 
marinade will save the trouble of making 
it fresh each time it is needed for picklins- 
meats, etc.; and it can be used several 
times over, so this is the most economical 
way. 

Mix one tablespoonful of wine vinegar 
with three tablespoonfuls of salad oil, a 
small sliced onion, one bayleaf, two tea- 



spoonfuls of chopped parsley, ten wholA 
peppers, a pinch of mixed herbs and a few 
thin slices of lemon peel. 

SPICED PEPPER.— Mix together an 
ounce and a half of thyme, the same quan- 
tity of bayleaf, grated nutmeg and pap- 
rika, three-quarters of an ounce of mar- 
joram and black pepper, and a quarter of 
an ounce of red pepper. Pound all in a 
mortar to a fine powder, pass through a 
sieve and put away in a tightly corked 
bottle. 

KITCHEN UTENSILS.— Copper kitch- 
en pots and pans are certainly the pretti- 
est and the most durable, but are also the 
most dangerous and the most unhealthy, 
f they are constantly requiring to be re- 
tinned, and should be abolished in small 
kitchens, where the cook's time can be 
better employed than iu scouring them 
bright. However, one or two copper pans 
are indispensable, such as a braising pan 
and an untiuued one for making preserves. 
Earthern ware is good on account of its 
thickness, which prevents burning, but it 
must be used carefully not to crack, or 
othei'wise it imparts a disagreeable taste 
to the food. 

Do not use tin, as it takes too long to 
cook in them, and they scorch easily. 
Gray or blue enamelled ware does not 
stand great heat and easily chips and 
cracks, but, however, it is the cleanest and 
the safest to use, although it requires 
watching, as food easily burns iu it. 

It is said that salt should only be added 
to the water after it comes to a boil when 
using this ware. This will prevent the 
pans from cracking. A flat bottomed iron 
pot with a close fitting iron lid is neces- 
sary, for in it may be cooked anything 
that is not acid. There would be two dif- 
ferent size? of these. 

Iron utensils are considered somewhat 
cumbersome and old-fashioned, still there 
are no others so satisfactory. 

LIST OF KITCHEN UTENSILS.— 
The quantities needed depend of course 
on the means and size of the family, and 
every kitchen should be as well stocked as 
possible. The best way is to consult a 
catalogue found in every furnishing hard- 
ware store, and from that select the ar- 
ticles mostly needed, purchasing the new- 
est and most practical ones. 

A few suggestions on those in ordinary 
use will perhaps be found useful. 

BASINS.— A wide, deep, half spherical 
uteusil. They are made in untinned cop- 
per for making creams and preserves and 
in china for beating eggs and other prep- 
arations. Smaller untinned copper ones 
are used for vegetables only, when it is 
necessary to retain their color. 

FISH KETTLE.— Is a long, narrow 
saucepan, contaiuin? a raovab!p t^-ater. 



WILD DUCKS FLY 90 MILES AN" HOUE. 



sr 



The fish is placed on this aud drawn out 
gently when cooked, so that it does not 
break. 

CHOPPER AND BOWL —The former 
is now made with a combination of sever- 
al knives from four to eight; this expe- 
dites the work. The bowl is round, made 
of hard wood, although for some purposes 
an oblong one is preferred. 

FRYING PANS.— The best ones are of 
thin, light iron. There must be at least 
two, one flat and shallow for omelets and 
pancakes, the other a deep one for frying 
meats and fish. Never wash a frying- 
pan, but merely wipe it with paper aud 
then with a cloth. 

GRA'j."ERS.— Slightly rounded utensils 
perforated with holes on which are grated 
the articles that are to be reduced to 
crumbs or to a coarse powder, such as 
bread, cheese, nutmegs. A special grat- 
er is needed for oranges and lemons. 

They are washed by dipping them in 
hot water and rubbed with a hard brush. 

LARDING NEEDLES.— Are large tin 
or iron needles. One end is pointed and 
the other divided into four splits, through 
which the piece of larding pork is inserted 
and then enclosed by the pressure of the 
splits. Some are made with a very long, 
wide eye, and through this the piece of 
pork is threaded. 

KITCHEN MEAT SAFE.— This is a 
kind of wire cage, provided with shelves, 
in which is placed those articles that re- 
quire to be exposed to the air. It must 
be placed facing the north, and in a direct 
current of air. Should there be no heavy 
cover, put on a piece of oilcloth to protect 
it from the rain. Always keep it in a 
cool, shady place. 

KITCHEN TABLE.— It should be 
heavy and thick so to remain steady while 
working on it. The best ones are un- 
varnished pine wood, as they can con- 
stantly be scrubbed. Cover with a cloth 
or oil cloth to give a neat appearance. 

A board covered with zinc is useful to 
put on the kitchen table, on which t© 
stand hot saucepans and dishes when din- 
ner is being prepared. It saves the table. 

MORTAR AND PESTLE.— A deep 
marble or woodware vessel to pound all 
matters that require to be pulverized. 
Also used for mixing or incorporating 
medicines. Never use acids in a marble 
mortar, and do not powder galls or any 
other astringent substance in any but a 
brass mortar. The china ones with a 
rough interior surface are the best. The 
pestle is either made «f china or box- 
wood. 

PRESERVING PANS.— Jams, jellies, 
marmalades and preserves are made in 
these. They must be kept scrupulously 



clean and be well examined before being 
used. 

SALAD BASKET.— A tinned wire 
cage in which the salad is placed aud then 
shaken dry. As those are somewhat diffi- 
cult to keep free of dust, they must al- 
ways be kept in a closet. A good sub- 
stitute is a clean cloth. The salad is 
placed in it, the four corners held in the 
hand, and it is then well shaken up and 
down, whin the salad will be perfectly 
dry and clean. 

COPPER SAUCEPANS.— These re- 
quire retinning at least once a year, and 
special care must be taken to keep them 
scrupulously clean or copper-poisoning will 
be the result; there are various ways of 
doing this whicu is explained in the 
household matters. 

SCALES should be found in every 
kitchen to test the weight of purchases as 
well as to carefully follow out the exact 
quantities of various recipes. 

SKEWERS.— Small metal or wooden 
sticks of various lengths, shaped like a 
sword, they are intended for fastening one 
object to another; they are used for run- 
ning through birds, kidneys, etc., in order 
to keep them open while cooking. 

SKIMMER.— A round, flat spoon, 
pierced with small holes and provided 
with a handle. A useful utensil for lift- 
ing a solid mass out of a liquid aud letting 
it drain. Skimmers for preserves are of 
untinmed red copper. 

STRAINERS.— Every kitchen should 
contain three different sized strainers. 
The finest one to be kept for broths. 
These can be of tin, enamelled ware, or 
fine wire or hair. 

WHISKS.— These are used for beating 
a preparation to make it frothy such as 
milk, eggs, cneam, etc. They are usually 
made of tin wire, but there are newer ones 
that turn with a crank which are both 
rapid and simple, and reduce the labor by 
half. 

KITCHEN WEIGHTS AND 
MEASURES. 

1 pound of butter equals 2 cupfuls. 

1 pound of flour equals 4 cupfuls. 

1 pound of liquid equals 1 pint. 

1 pound of granulated sugar 2% cup- 
fuls. 

1 pound of powdered sugar equals 2^ 
cupfuls. 

1 quart of butter equals 1% pounds. 

1 quart of flour equals 1^4 pounds. 

1 quart of brown sugar equals 2% 
pounds. 

1 quart of white sugar equals 2 pounds. 

16 tablespoonfuls of liquid equals Y^ 
pounds. 



THE ROE OF THE CODFISH CONTAINS Si MILLIONS OF EGGS. 



16 tablespoonfuls of liquid equals 1 
tumblerful. 

16 tablespoonfuls of liquid equals 1 tea- 
cupful. 

8 tablespoonfuls of liquid equals 1 gill. 
4 tablespoonfuls of liquid equals 1 wine- 
glassful. 

1 teaspoonful liquid equals % ounce. 

1 tablespoonful salt equals 1 ounce. 

1 tablespoonful most solids equals 1 
ounce. 

2 dessertspoonful equals 1 tablespoon- 
ful. 

3 teaspoonful equals 1 tablespoonful. 
2 teaspoonful equals 1 dessertspoon. 
1 teaspoonful equals 60 drops. 

1 large wineglass equals 2 ounces. 

1 common wineglass equals % gill. 

1 cupful breadcrumbs (pressed in) equals 
4 ounces. 

1 cupful butter or lard (pressed in) 
equals 5^ ounces. 



X cupful flour, cornstarch, etc., (level) 
equals 4 ounces. 

1 cupful raisins (stoned, pressed in) 
equals 7 ounces. 

1 cupful rice equals 6 ounces. 

1 cupful sago, tapioca, etc. (heaped) 
equals 5 ounces, 

1 cupful suet (chopped and heaped) 
equals 4 ounces. 

1 sack flour equals 224 or 280 pounds. 

1 barrel flour equals 196 pounds. 

1 gallon flour equals 7 pounds. 

1 barrel rice equals 600 pounds. 

1 barrel pork equals 200 pounds. 

1 firkin butter equals 56 pounds. 

1 barrel butter equals 224 pounds. 

10 medium eggs weigh 1 pound. 

When a spoonful is mentioned it means 
a tablespoon. 

When a cup, an ordinary tea or break- 
fast cup. 



ciiildee:^ lose weight during tee fiest 3 days after bikth. 39 



Culinary Hints 



EGG AND ITS USES.— For a boil 
apply the white skin that lines the egg- 
sliell. This is said to be good. 

A fish-bone that cannot be extracted 
will be carried down by immediately 
swallowing a raw egg. 

For bowel troubles, a partly beaten 
law egg taken at a swallow is an ex- 
cellent remedy. Take four doses every 
twenty-four hours. 

An egg in the morning cup of coffee 
is a good tonic. 

For convalescents drop an ujibroken 
raw egg into a glass of wine and let it 
be taken in one swallow. 

An excellent substitute for cream is 
to beat the white of an egg to a froth, 
add very small lump of butter and stir 
this gradually into tea or coffee, so that 
it does not curdle. 

A most nutritious food and a very 
palatable one is a raw egg having the 
jolk unbroken. It can be seasoned with 
a little grated nutmeg or a few drops of 
lemon juice, salt, cayenne or a little 
chopped parsley. 

To relieve hoarseness take every hour 
a tea&poonful of whisked white of egg 
beaten with lemon juice and sugar. 

A mustard plaster made with the white 
of an egg will not leave a blister. 

An excellsnt paste is the white of a 
raw egg. It is better than any other for 
securing papers put over jelly and jam 
glasses, for they are air-tight if dipped 
in the white of an egg. 

A good shampoo is lime water and 
egg yolk. 

Spots can be taken out of wash goods 
by rubbing them with the yolk of an 
egg before washing. 

LEMON AND ITS USES.— A bilious 
.attack can soon be cured by taking the 
juice of one or two lemons in a goblet 
of water before retiring and before rising; 
continue its use for several weeks. 

For a slight attack of biliousness, 
isqueeze the juice of a small lemon into 
half a glass of cold water, stir in a 
pinch of soda and drink while efferves- 
cing. 

The irritation caused by the bites of 
gnats and flies is greatly reduced if lemon 
jnice be outwardly applied. 

Brass work of all kinds can be cleaned 
with a cut lemon and afterward wiped 
cff Aviih a chamois. 

To cure ofTeusive breath arising from ! 



a disordered liver, squeeze the juice of 
a lemon in a glass of hot water and 
take it before breakfast; repeat tnree 
times a week. 

To break up a bad cold take a strong 
L'Ot lemonade at bed time. 

To aid digestion, te.ke lemon juice ia 
water after meals. 

In certain forms of dyspepsia an in- 
fusion of lemon peel forms a mild tonic 
and stomachic. 

For tired feet, rub the soles with lemon. 
This not only softens, but eases them 
greatly. 

To make a good lemon flavoring, fill 
a wide mouthed pint bottle half full 
of brandy and put in any bits of waste 
lemon rind. Pare the yellow part very 
tliiu and drop it into the bottle. A few 
drops makes an excellent flavoring for 
tarts, custards, etc. 

To ke?p lemons fresh, put them ic 
cold water and change this every day. 

For decorating fried fish, cutlets, etc., 
very thinly sliced lemons are used; they 
may be dipped in very finely chopped 
parsley. 

Correct the taste of gelatin with lemon 
juice. 

To cure tender gums, paint on lemon 
juice with a camel's hair brush. Do not 
touch the teeth. 

Hair will often be stepped from fall- 
ing out if lemon juice is rubbed onto the 
roots. 

Stains from the hands are removed with 
lemon juice, it also whitens them and 
softens the nails. 

A nervous headache can be cured by 
drinking a cup ©f strong tea with two or 
thr?e slices of kmc:! in it. 

A sick headache can be remedied by 
drinking a cupful of black coffee with the 
juice of half a lemon added to it. 

To allay hysterical palpitation of the 
heart, take a tablespoonful of lemon juice 
occasionally. 

Ink stains can be removed from marble 
by the use of lemon juice. 

The kidneys and skin can be kept in, 
working order by drinking a hot lemonade' 
at night. 

Rub lemon pulp ©n the kitchen table to» 
clean it with. 

For an inactive liver, lemons are na- 
ture's stimulant. 

A fine manicure acid is a teaspoonful of 
lemon juice in a cup of tepid water. It 



30 



AT THE AGE OP A WEEK THEY SENSIBLY INCREASE. 



removes all stains from nails and skin 
and loosens the cuticle better than any 
instrument. 

Rub tough meat with a cut lemon. 

The juice of a lemon taken with a tea- 
spoonful of cooking soda alter each meal 
will reduce the flesh of the stoutest per- 
son. (Obesity.) 

Lenxon and orange peelings should all 
be saved and dried. They are a capital 
substitute for kindling wood. A handful 
will revive a dying fire. 

To keep the grains of rice separate, 
lemon juice should be added to the water 
in which it is boiled. 

For scurvy caused by eating too much 
salt food, lemon juice is useful but must 
be takeu with sugar. 

To soften and smooth a skin roughened 
by the wind, rub Indian meal moistened 
with lemon juice well over the face and 
hands, then wash eff with warm water. 

To cleaase a sponge perfectly rub half 
a fresh lemon thoroughly iuto it, then 
rinse several times in luke warm water. 

To allay vomiting give lemon juice with 
carbonate of potash (half an ounce of 
the juice to twenty grains of the salt), 
and drink ^vhile effervescing. 

SALT AND ITS USES.— For a salt 
bath put salt in a bag and shake it in the 
water. 

A handful of rock salt added to the 
bath is the next best thing to an ocean 
dip. 

When broiling a steak, etc., if a pinch or 
two of salt be thrown on the fire, it will 
quench the flames arising from the drip- 
ping fat. 

To destroy bed bugs, flU every crevics 
with salt. 

Soak new calicoes in a strong solution 
of salt for one hour before washing to 
set the colors. 

Salt cleanses and brightens carpets and 
keeps out moths. 

Salt is a cleanser. Freely used in the 
kitchen it keeps sink and vessels clear 
from grease and smell. 

A few grains of salt sprinkled on 
coffee before adding the water brings out 
and improves the flavor. 

To cure cold in the head, inhale a solu- 
tion of salt. 

Consumptive night sweats may be ar- 
rested by sponging the body nightly in 
salt water. 

Use salt and water for a dentifrice, it 
hardens the gums and whitens the teeth. 

To remove the discoloration of tea and 
the like in badly washed dishes, usje 
damp salt. 

An excellent disinfectant in bedrooms is 
cold wate.- containing salt and camphor. 

Eggs keep well in the salt jar. 

Add a little salt to the white of an 



egg when whipping it. Salt coola and 
cold eggs froth rapidly. 

Clean egg spoons with salt. 

For aching eyes a good lotion is salt 
dissolved m soft water. 

Before re-curling ostrich feathers with 
a knife, sprinkle salt on before the fire. 

To revive a coal fire, throw salt on. 

A fire extinguisher is salt added to a 
bucket of water. 

To reduce flesh, heat dry salt, put it in 
the folds of a towel and nightly lay it 
over the abdomen. 

Stand thv; stalks of flowers in warm 
salted water to revive the blossoms. 

When grease has been spilled on the 
fire, and raises a disagreeable smell, 
throw salt on. 

To remove grease spots from cloth, ap- 
ply salt in alcohol. 

To prevent the hair from falling out, 
use salt in the water it is washed with. 

A sick headache is often cured by put- 
ting a pinch of salt on the tongue and 
following it ten minutes after by a drink 
of cold water. 

Indigestion can be relieved by taking 
regularly before breakfast a cup of hot 
water with a teaspoonful of salt. 

If flat irous become rough or smoky 
lay a little fine salt on a flat surface and 
rub them well. It cleans them and pre- 
vents sticking. 

Kerosene will give a brighter light if a 
teaspoonful of salt is put iu the oil. 

Lemons will keep for some time in the 
salt jar. 

Moths are kept out of carpets if salt is 
used in sweeping them. 

Nuts eaten with salt are more easily 
digested. 

In pastry or anything containing flour 
requires a pinch of salt in it. 

For rheumatic pains, apply a hot salt 
poultice. 

Wash ribbons in salted cold water. 

Put salt in the sink where vegetable 
water has been poured down; it will re- 
move all odor. 

Put salt in the corners where snails 
frequent. 

To prevent soot that has fallen on a 
carpet making stains, throw salt on. 

A little salt in raw or boiled starch will 
prevent the irous from sticking and 
whitens the starch. 

For stings of bees or spider bites, salt 
and soda are an excellent cure. 

Soak black stockings in salt and water 
before washing to prevent fading. 

For a sore throat gargle with a weak 
solution of salt, adding a few grains of 
red pepper. .... 

Salt added to water will make it boil 
quicker. 

Clean wicker work, rattan and matting 
with salt and water. 



THE SKELETON OF A MAN WEIGHS PROM 12 TO 16 LBS. 



Salt in whitewash makes it thick. 

ONION, REMARKS ON THE.— To 
remove the odor of onions from the breath, 
drink a cup of strong coffee. 

Before frying sliced onions dip them 
in milk. 

Place onions in an invalid's room; they 
m,ust be sliced and put near the bed. 
In cases of great contagion they will turn 
black in a few moments. 

To remove the odor of onions from the 
hands and cooking utensils, wash them 
immediately in cold water. 

To improve a roast leg of mutton, slice 
half an onion in the basting juice, and 
note the improvement in the flavor. 

Leaves of parsley eaten with vinegar 
will prevent the disagreeable conse- 
quences of eating onions. 

When peeling onions, hold the hands 
under water. This will prevent weepin:; 
eyes, and always peel from the root up. 

BREAD, HOW TO MAKE IT.— There 

is nothing complicated in the successful 
manufacture of bread, providing the flour 
is good and the yeast strong, pure and 
fresh. A fairly good oven is also a neces- 
sity. Brewers' yeast can be used, but dry, 
compressed yeast is far less trouble and 
a great deal more reliable. 

Testing the oven and baking the bread 
are very important points, and can only 
be thoroughly learned by experience, some- 
times dearly bought. 

If there be no oven thermometer to test 
the heat of the oven, throw in a handful 
of flour ; if it browns quickly without 
burning the heat is right, or if you can 
just keep your hand in whilst slowly count- 
ing twenty-five. The heat should be de- 
creased after a while, so as to cook the 
loaf thoroughly through, without burning 
the crust. 

BREAD-MAKING.— Not a speck of 
flour should be kneaded into bread after 
it has once been^ set to rise. Kneading 
more flour into the dough only adds un- 
leavened flour to the mass, and is almost 
sure to make the bread heavy. 

TO BREAD-MAKERS. 

1. Our finest white bread contains little 
else but starch, so should not be called 
"the staff of life." 

2. Good flour, white or brown, should 
contain none of the outer husks or bran. 

3. Flour of good quality clings to the 
Jhand ; when pressed tightly remains in 
shape and is of a creamy tint. 

4. Milk is a great improvement to bread. 

5. When used, it is best scalded, then 
cooled to prevent souring. 

6. A damp pantry and warm closet are 
bad for keeping bread. 

,7- A large earthenware crock with a 
lid IS the best for the purpose. 



8. Bread dough loses one-sixth of its 
weight in baking. 

9. If bread is covered when hot, the 
crust will not be crisp. 

10. Stale bread may be made soft and 
tresh by soaking it in cold water or milk 
and then baking slowly for one hour. 

TO CUT HOT BREAD AND CAKES, 
—Heat the knife slightly, and they will cut 
as if they were cold. 

TO BAKE BREAD.— Small loaves are 
much easier baked than large ones, and 
are usually more wholesome, as the dough 
gets more perfectly cooked. Should the 
outside of the bread get too dark, grate it 
off lightly ; bakers have a rasp made for 
this purpose. The length of time for the 
baking depends on the oven and the size 
of the loaf ; usually from three-quarters 
of an hour to an hour and a half. To tell 
when the bread is cooked through, knock 
it sharply underneath with the knuckles ; 
if it gives out a hollow sound it is done ; 
if it sounds dull and "leadeny," as it is 
called, the dough is not cooked through. 
When baked, lay the loaf on its side, to 
let the steam escape. 

HOME-MADE YEAST.— Boil fior one 
hour in one gallon of water, half a pound 
of the best white flour, two ounces of 
brown sugar and a little salt. Let this 
stand to cool, and when lukewarm bottle 
and cork closely. In twenty-four hours it 
will be ready to use. A pint of this yeast 
will be sufficient for eighteen pounds of 
bread. 

HOP YEAST.— Pare four middling 
sized potatoes and put them into one quart 
of water. Put two handfuls of hops in a 
cloth and boil it with the potatoes. Stir 
together in a pan four large spoonfuls of 
flour, half a teacupful of molasses, a table- 
spoonful of ground ginger and a little salt. 
Mas'h the boiled potatoes soft, stir them 
in the pan, and when cool add half a tea- 
cup of yeast. When it has done rising 
cork it up tight in bottles and put it away 
in a cool cellar for use. 

POTATO YEAST.— Boil and mash fine 
a dozen good potatoes; add one cup of 
white suarar and a quart of boiling water. 
Let it stand ten minutes, then add a quart 
of cold water and half a pound of yeast : 
bottle it. 

TO KEEP YEAST.— Fill a champagne 
bottle with the thick portion of the yeast, 
and on top of it pour half an inch of olive 
oil. Close the bottle by tying a bladder 
over the top, and prick this with a pin to 
protect it from explosion. The yeast will 
keep for a long time if stored in a cold 
place. 

CAKES— HOW TO MAKE THEM. 

Eggs— Always break the eggs separately 
into a cup, and not straight into the basin 
in which they are to be whisked ; in this 
way a bad one does not spoil the good 
ones. Eggs should always be well 



33 A FEMALE SKELETON AT THE SAME AGE IS SMALLER THAN A MALE. 



whisked before using. The whites of the 
eggs should be beaten separately, and 
added to the yolks at the last moment. 

Sugar — If loaf sugar is used, pound it 
well and pass it through a sieve, but cas- 
tor sugar is better if procurable. 

Butter — Always use good butter, as an 
inferior quality will spoil a cake. If the 
butter is beaten to a cream, first warm, but 
not melt it, and this saves time and labor. 
If butter is too expensive, use good clari- 
fied dripping, which is an excellent substi- 
tute for ordinary household or nursery 
cakes. 

Currants — These should be washed and 
carefully picked over, then dried in a 
cloth, for if used either damp or hot the 
cakes are apt to be heavy. 

Candied Peel — If this has hardened, 
soften it in boiling water and dry well. 

The Tin — When making any kind of 
sponge or rich cake the tin should be 
lined with buttered paper, or any un- 
salted fat can be used. 

The Oven — See that the oven is the 
right heat; this is of great importance, 
especially in case of large cakes, for if the 
heat is not tolerably fierce the cakes will 
not rise properly. If it is too hot lay a 
sheet of clean paper over the top of the 

Tlie Oven Door — Don't open the oven 
door for the first twenty minutes, nor 
after that oftener than is absolutely nec- 
essary, for sudden chills are as fatal to 
cakes as they are to people. 

CAKE BAKING.— If a dish of water 
is set in the oven while the cake is baking 
it will seldom scorch. The richer the cake 
the slower should be the oven. 

TO MAKE CAKES BROWN better and 
obviate the necessity of lining the tins with 
paper sift a little flour over them after 
they are well greased. 

TO FRESHEN A CAKE.— A dry or 
stale cake can be freshened so as to seem 
like newly-baked by putting it in a tin, 
covering the tin with another pan and 
leaving the whole in a warm oven about 
twenty minutes. 

TO ICE CAKES.— To prevent the 
icing from running down the sides of a 
cake double a piece of oiled naper three 
inches wide and pin it closely around the 
cake letting the band come up half an inch 
above. Then spread the icing thickly and 
evenly and do not take away the band un- 
til the icing is entirely dry. 

Another way is to sift flour over the 
cake and then wipe it off with a soft 
cloth before applying the icing. 

TO KEEP CAKE MOIST.— Two ap- 
ples kept in the cake box will keep mod- 
erately rich cake moist for a time, if the 
apples are replaced when withered. 

HOME-MADE CANDIES.— Use either 
an iron or a porcelain-lined kettle. Gran- 
ulated sugar is preferable. Never stir the 



sugar candy while it is boiling. Cream of 
tartar should never be added until the 
syrup is boiling. Butter should be put in 
only when the candy is nearly done. Soda 
and flavors to be put in when the syrup 
is taken from the fire. 

TO CLARIFY HONEY FOR MAK- 
ING SYRUPS.— Put the honey on the fire 
in a thick pan, skim it well when it comes 
to a boil. Place in it an unbroken egg; 
if it sinks, the honey is not cooked; if it 
floats it is done, and it can then be used 
in place of sugar for preserving all kinds 
of fruits. Keep the honey well stirred, 
as it is very liable to burn. 

TO CLARIFY SUGAR FOR 
SYRUP.— Allow half a pint of water 
and the white of half an egg to every 
pound of sugar. Put the water, sugar and 
the well whipped white into a lined sauce- 
pan, putting it on the hot fire only after 
the sugar is dissolved; then put it on and 
when it comes to a boil throw in a teacup- 
ful of cold water, and after this do not 
stir again. Bring it to the boiling point, 
then put the pan on one side of the fire 
for the preparation to settle. Remove all 
the scum, and the sugar will be ready to 
use. Place the scum on a sieve and use 
again the syrup that runs down from it; 
skim this also. The sugar will take 
twenty minutes to dissolve and five min- 
utes to boil. 

CANDY, OR THREAD SUGAR (1st 
degree). — Clarify the sugar as for syrup, 
put it on the fire and boil till smooth. Dip 
the hand into cold water, plunge the 
skimmer into the sugar, touch it with the 
thumb and forefinger and open them in- 
stantly, when a fine, short thread of sugar 
will form; boil for a few moments longer 
and the thread will be firmer and longer 
and has attained the first degree. 

LARGE THREAD, OR SOUFFLE 
SUGAR (2d degree).— Boil the sugar 
longer, dip in the skimmer and blow the 
sugar off into the pan. If it is boiled long 
enough, bubbles will form on the holes 
of the skimmer. The second degree is 
reached. 

FEATHERED SUGAR (3d degree).— 
Boil still longer, again dip in the skim- 
mer, shake it and give it a sudden toss. 
If boiled enough the sugar will fly off like 
small feathers or down. 

CRACKLING SUGAR (4th degree).-- 
Boil still longer, till on dipping a stick 
into the pan and plunging it into cold 
water, the sugar snaps and becomes hard 
at once. 

CARAMEL SUGAR (5th degree).— To 
every pound of sugar allow one gill of 
water. Boil together very quickly over a 
hot fire, skimming well as s( on as it boils. 
Keep boiling until the sugar siiaps v.hen a 



A MAN" IS TALLER IN" THE MORNING THAN AT NIGHT. 



33 



little is dropped into cold water. If it 
hardens then the right degree is reached; 
squeeze in a little lemon juice and let rest 
on the fire for another moment. Set the 
pan in another one of cold water and the 
caramel is ready to use. The sugar must 
be carefully watched and taken up the in- 
stant it is done. This sugar is used for 
ornamentation. 

TO BLANCH ALMONDS. — Throw 
them into a pan of boiling water and let 
stand on the fire till the skins slip off read- 
ily when rubbed between the finger and 
thumb. Then drain them off, plunge into 
cold water for a minute or two, drain 
again, and the skins can be rubbed off with 
a cloth. As they are blanched throw them 
into cold water with a little salt in it, leave 
for a couple of hours, take out and dry 
them. They can easily be split with a 
knife or may be cut lengthwise into long 
shreds according to the purpose required. 

TO POUND ALMONDS.— After they 
are blanched soak them for an hour in 
cold water, to keep them from oiling. 
While pounding add now and then a few 
drops of water, lemon juice or orange- 
flower water for the same purpose; they 
are ready to use when reduced to a sottish 
pulp. 

TO PEEL APPLES without waste 
pour scalding water over; let stand one 
minute, and the skin will come off quite 
easily. 

TO CHOOSE APPLES.— Always be 
guided by the weight. The heaviest are 
the best and if large ones are bought, there 
is less waste in paring. 

HARICOT BEANS.— Do not add the 
salt till the beans are nearly cooked, other- 
wise they are apt to crack. 

TO COOK CORNED BEEF.— Put it 
into cold water, let simmer very gently and 
change the water twice while boiling. It 
will be juicy and not too salt. 

TO CURE BEEP WITHOUT BRINE. 
— Take seven pounds each of sugar and 
salt and four ounces of saltpetre. Pack 
the beef in a jar or small barrel, according 
to the quantity and sprinkle the mixture 
over it. Be careful to pack solid. 

BLOATERS.— Always keep these sep- 
arate from other food, or anything they 
come in contact with will be sure to taste 
of them. 

TO MAKE BUTTER. — The milk 
should be scalded as soon as it is brought 
in from the cows, as that always makes 
cream better and faster. The churn 
should be as nearly as possible straight up 
and down, and the temperature between 
55 degrees and 60 degrees. As soon as the 
butter has come, take it from the churn 
immediately, and put it in a large wooden 



bowl; then put it in cold, soft water— rain 
water is the best— and pull the butter over 
gently with a wooden ladle so not to break 
the grain, for if this is done the butter is 
oily. Wash out every particle of milk, 
and season with the best salt. Set the 
bowl away till the next day, and when 
suflBciently cool work the mass thoroughly, 
but without breaking the grain, and on 
the third day pack away if it has assumed 
the right color. Be careful that there is 
no milky water left in it. 

TO MAKE BAD BUTTER GOOD.— 
Put it in a large dish with a very little 
baking soda; pour over plenty of soft 
water and let it stand for several hours. 
Then work the butter thoroughly, so as to 
wash out all the milk, which is the reason 
of the rankness. Afterwards break it up 
in small pieces, put them in another bowl, 
pour on cold water, work it a short time 
and then salt it a little and put it away 
for use. This will keep perfectly sweet 
for a reasonable length of time. 

TO KEEP BUTTER.— An excellent 
plan is to buy a lot of good butter in 
summer t'me when it is cheap and give 
it a gentle washing. Pack it away very 
tightly in stone jars, and pour over a 
brine made as follows: Boil some soft 
Avater, then throw in a good quantity of 
the best salt, and keep stirring occasion- 
ally while it is cooling. When this is cold, 
pour it over the butter, covering it to the 
depth of at least three inches, then on top 
of the water pour a little sweet oil, which 
makes a perfectly air-tight film. 

TO KEEP BUTTER AND MILK 
FRESH.— They can both be kept fresh a 
long time in warm weather without any 
ice by wrapping a large porous pot in a 
wet cloth and inverting it over the butter 
or milk. The external evaporation cools 
the interior. 

SALT FOR BUTTER.— This is made 
as follows: the ingredients being more or 
less according to the quantity of butter to 
be salted. Two quarts of the best salt, 
one ounce of white sugar and one ounce 
of saltpetre. Mix well together and use 
one ounce for every pound of butter. 

TO SWEETEN BUTTER.— To sweet- 
en butter that is not entirely sweet, put it 
into a china dish with a little salt and a 
very small bit of soda, place it over the 
fire and bring to a boil. Turn it into a 
stone jar and put it in a cool place. The 
impurities will settle to the bottom and the 
butter will be perfectly sweet and not too 
salt for cooking purposes. 

TO COOK CABBAGE OR GREENS. 
—Cook them in plenty of boiling water 
with a tablespoonful of salt to every half 
gallon. Boil with the lid off, and very 
fast, constantly pressing them under the 



34 



THERE HAVE BEEN RACES 8 TO 10 FEET HIGH. 



water with a spoou. If the water is very 
hard, add a very small lump of soda to a 
large potful of water. Split the stalks in 
four when thick and cut out the hard heart 
part. 

CABBAGE SMELL.— A saucer of vine- 
gar placed on the range while cabbage is 
being boiled will prevent the odor from 
penetrating through the house. 

CELERY SEED.— May be used for 
flavoring soups in place of celery. 

CHAFING DISHES.— Although rather 
expensive to purchase, yet these are re- 
markably fashionable, but then they are 
made of good nickel plate, and usually 
with first class ebony mounts and stands. 

They are heated by spirits, and are in- 
tended for preparing at the table such 
dishes as are best eaten directly they are 
made, also for re-warming or keeping any- 
thing hot. 

Poached eggs, all kinds of omelets, 
scrambled eggs, Welsh rarebit, tish and 
meat toasts, lobsters, oysters or clams 
stewed, mushrooms, etc., can all be easily 
and cleanly prepared in this way. A 
kettle to fit over the lamp can be used for 
boiling water. The under dish is a hot 
water pan in which the upper pan stands. 
But for rapid cooking, such as omelets, 
etc., only the upper one is required, the 
under being removed. 

TO PREVENT CHEESE FROM 
MOULDING.— Dip a cloth in vinegar and 
wring as dry as possible. Wrap the 
cheese in this and then in paper and keep 
in a cool place. 

CHICORY OR ENDIVE.— Must be 
washed and dried quickly, as leaving it in 
the water makes it bitter. 

TO KEEP COFFEE.— Coffee should 
always be kept closed from the air and 
apart from other substances. Pepper, 
spices and any strong ingredient will im- 
part an unpleasant taste to coffee if left 
near it. 

TO TEST COFFEE.— To test the pur- 
ity of coffee, pour cold water over it. If 
the water assumes a brownish hue then it 
may be concluded that it contains chicory. 

TO KEEP CREAM SWEET.— Add a 
little white sugar to the cream and then 
heat it slowly, and it will keep for a long 
time. 

USE FOR DRY CRUSTS.— Put away 
crusts or broken pieces of bread in a tin; 
brown in the oven, grate them fine apd 
put in a closely covered jar. They are in- 
valuable for breading croquettes, etc. 

TO CLEAN CURRANTS.— Put them 
in a colander with holes not too large; set 
that down in a pan half full of warm 
water and stir the currants about vigor- 
ously; the dirt will go through the holes. 



Pour the water away two or three times; 
spread the currants out on a pan, pick 
them over and let dry for use. 

CUSTARD BOILED.— Never let it 

reach the boiling point or it will curdle. 

BAKED CUSTARD.— Always put the 
dish in a pan of hot water, and place them 
both in the oven. This will prevent the 
eggs from separating from the milk and 
forming into water. 

TO TEST CUSTARD.— An egg will 
cook just under the boiling point, but if it 
boils it is likely to curdle. To tell when 
it is just correct, dip a spoou into the hot 
custard, and if a coating remains on the 
custard must be taken off at once; if the 
spoon comes out clean, cook it a minute 
more and test it again. 

SOUP DRIPPING. — Carefully re- 
moved, rendered down and clarified is 
very good for all sorts of frying. 

HOW TO PREPARE A CANVAS 
BACK DUCK.— To clean. Pluck the 
duck except the wings and head; cut off 
the wings and draw out all the inside and 
windpipe. Pour alcohol in a small flat 
pan, set fire to it and hold the duck over 
one minute, or it can be held over the 
flame of a gas stove. Clean the duck by 
rubbing with a dry cloth; cut off the neck 
and head; take the skin off the head and 
remove the eyes. 

To truss. Push the head inside the 
duck with the end of the bill just sticking 
out; season inside with salt and pepper 
and truss in the ordinary way. The web 
feet are not cut off. 

To roast. Roast for fifteen minutes 
more or less according to size; the meat 
must be rare. 

To broil. Clean it as for roasting; split 
the duck through the back, season and 
smear with sweet oil. Put the duck in a 
hinged double gridiron, and broil for 
about fifteen minutes over a very bright 
fire. 

To serve. Place it on a hot dish, pour 
melted butter with lemon juice, salt, 
pepper and chopped parsley added over 
and serve with very hot plates. The roast 
canvas back is dressed on a hot dish, and 
red currant jelly served at the same time, 
also some of the red blood juice that flows 
from the bird. 

Canvas backs must always be eaten off 
very hot plates. 

CRACKED EGGS.— Eggs with very 
thin shells are not so likely to crack lu 
boiling if they are put on in cold water 
nnd brouglit gently to the boil. 

TO BOIL A CRACKED EGG.— A tea- 
spoonful of vinegar put into the water will 
prevent a cracked egg from boiling out, uo 
matter how much it is ci-acked. 



THE BLOOD OF BLACKS AND WHITES IS THE SAME COLOR. 



35 



EGGING AND CRUMBING.— When 

crumbing croquettes or anything else that 
requires egging and crumbing, a tablespon- 
ful of milk may be added to each egg used. 
This is more economical when eggs are 
dear and quite as effectual. 

TO KEEP EGG YOLKS.— When the 
the white and not the yolk of an egg is 
required for use, make a small hole in 
the shell, and let the white run out, then 
stand the egg in an egg cup and set it in 
the ice box. The yolk will keep its color 
and freshness for some days. 

TO KEEP EGG YOLKS.— When the 
white of an egg is used and the yolk left 
it can be kept good for several days by 
placing it in a cup which has been rinsed 
in cold water and covering it with a wet 
cloth. Eggs to beat well should be cold. 

A little salt added to the egg will facili- 
tate the process of whipping. 

TO LIME EGGS.— Put a quart or a 
gallon of quick lime (according to the 
quantity of eggs to be put up), into a large 
vessel, and pour over a gallon or more of 
water. Let it stand for twenty-four 
hours, then turn off the water and put iu 
the eggs, the pointed end down, pour back 
the water and put away for use. 

TO PRESERVE EGGS.— Unslacked 
lime and salt is used to preserve eggs. 
Purchase them when they are cheap, put 
a layer of the above mixture in a deep 
box, then a layer of eggs far apart from 
each other, standing on end, the broad side 
up in the lime. Alternate layers of eggs 
and lime to fill the box and fasten it up. 
If properly packed they will easily keep 
for one year. 

TO BARD A FOWL OR GAME.— 
This is done to have the game and 
poultry less dry, when baking or roasting. 
Bard means a breast plate, and in this 
case it is a thin slice of raw fat bacon 
cut square and large enough to cover 
over the breast of the bird. Keep it in 
place with two pieces of fine thread or 
string tied round, and remove this bacon 
about five minutes before the cooking is 
completed. 

TO DRAW FOWL OR POULTRY.-^ 
Cut a lengthwise slit in the vent, not too 
large but enough to introduce the hand; 
pull out foi'cibly all the entrails, liver, be- 
ing careful not to break the gall bladder 
attached to it, the heart and the gizzard, 
Another hole must be made in the lower 
part of the neck to remove the windpipe 
and pouch; these may sometimes be pulled 
through the vent hole. Draw out the 
lights attached to the breast part. Cut 
the bladder from the liver, the veins from 
the heart and open the gizzard and pull 
away the inner skin. Singe the fowl over 



alcohol, gas or burned paper, clean and 
dress. 

TO WHITEN A FOWL.— Place it in 
a saucepanful of slightly salted cold 
water. Remove the fowl as soon as the 
water comes to a boil plunge it into cold 
water, and let it stand half an hour, then 
put it back to cook in clean cold water, 
and the fowl will be the desired white- 
ness. 

TO CLARIFY FAT.-Cut up any piece 
of cooked or uncooked fat and place i^ in 
a stewpan with cold water to cover; boil 
for two hours and strain into a basin. 

When cold a solid lump of perfectly 
white fat will be found, which can be 
used for plain pastry and cakes, and is 
much better and purer than ordinary but- 
ter or lard bought for this purpose. 

TO CLEAR FRYING FAT.— The dis- 
coloration of frying fat is due to the 
burning crumbs and particles that fall 
from off the fish, croquette, etc., and so to 
keep it nice it is a good plan to slice a 
potato thinly and fry it after the fish, etc., 
then strain the fat into a clean pan. 

Another way is to add a quart of warm 
water in which half a teaspoonful of car- 
bonate of soda is dissolved to the melted 
fat; stir thoroughly, and remove the scum 
after it has boiled for a few minutes; this 
must not be added when the fat is very 
hot or it will boil over. Pour both water 
and fat into a large basin and set it aside 
till the next day. Remove the cake of 
fat, scrape off all the discolorations and 
remelt it on the fire; after the bubbling has 
ceased pour the clear fat through muslin, 
leaving the residue in the pan. It is now 
fit to use again. 

TEMPERATURE OF FAT,— If the 
fat begins to foam while cooking fish or 
croquettes, the temperature is too low. 
Finish cooking what is already in the 
pan, and heat till a blue smoke rises before 
putting in more. 

DRIED FIGS, TO FRESHEN.— Figs 
that have become dry may be freshened 
by steaming them till tender, then roll 
them iu sifted sugar and put in a warm 
room for a time. 

CRIMPED FISH.— Take any firm fresh 
white fish and soak it in very strong salted 
water, then boil it in sufficient salted 
boiling water to cover, adding two table- 
spoonfuls of vinegar. Drain and dress on- 
to a dish. 

TO FILLET FISH.— When the fish is 
cleaned and dried lay it flat on the table 
with either side uppermost. Take a sharp 
pointed knife and cut off the head, then 
the tail and fins. Make a cut along the 
backbone, only far down enough to feel 
the bones, but do not cut through them, 
then turn the fish over and make a similar 



36 



RED OR WHITE HAIRED PERSONS HAVE BLUE EYES. 



cut on the other side. Lay the fish with 
the tail towards you, and begin taking off 
the left hand fillet; hold the knife very flat, 
cut back a corner, laying bare the bones 
under the flesh, and continue to cut off 
the flesh till the fins are reached, then with 
a stroke or two more the fillet is off. Turn 
the fish round and take off the other fillet, 
thus having two fillets from each side of 
the fish, then turn it over and take two 
more from the other side. The object ia 
to cut the flesh off the bones as neatly as 
possible, leaving none on. Be careful not 
to raise any of the short bones near the 
fins with the point of the knife; should 
there be any, cut them off neatly. Usually 
the fillets are too large to leave whole, so 
cut them into two or three pieces according 
to the size. A sharp knife is essential; 
keep re-sharpening it, as raw fish soon 
blunts it. 

TO SCALE FISH.— To scale fresh fish 
easily pour vinegar over and the scales 
will come off. 

TO CHOOSE GOOD FLOUR.— First 
look at the color, for good flour has a 
creamy tint; bad flour has a dead white 
color with a bluish tint and white specks 
all through it. Then try the adhesive- 
ness of the flour. Wet a little and knead 
it between the fingers; if it works soft and 
sticky it is bad, but if it is stiff and 
plump it is good. If a little good flour is 
pinched up it will cling to any wall or 
smooth surface onto which it is thrown, 
while if bad, it will fall to the ground in 
a dust. Flours that stand these tests are 
sure to be good. 

TO BROWN FLOUR.— Place a quart 
of flour in a pudding tin in a moderate 
oven, and stir it about at intervals till 
brown. Keep the jar well covered and 
dry. 

TO KEEP THE FLOUR JAR.— When 
it is empty it should always be scalded out 
and dried in a good hot oven before being 
refilled. This will kill any mites that have 
got into the last supply of flour and will 
keep the fresh flour perfectly sweet. This 
is very important for the health of the 
household. 

BURNT FOOD.— When food scorches 
in the saucepan and seems ruined beyond 
redemption, a possible remedy is to take 
the pan at once from the fire and set it iu 
a pan of cold water. This treatment 
will nine times out of ten remove the 
burned taste entirely. 

TO PREVENT FOOD BECOMING 
DRY. — When it is necessary to keep a 
warm meal for a late comer, do aiot set 
the food in a hot oven, thus discoloring the 
china as well as drying the food. Instead 
place the plate or dish over a pan of boil- 
ing water, covering with a cover that will 



just fit over the edge. The food will keep 
hot, and there will be enough steam from 
the boiling water in the lower pan to pre- 
vent the food getting dry. 

CANNED FOODS.-There is an enor- 
mous variety of these in tho market at 
present, and they are most useful for 
serving either cold or warmed over. The 
fish variety includes cod's roe, lobster, 
oysters, salmon, sardines, and tunny fish. 
The meats are hams, chicken, beefs of all 
kinds, potted meats, corned meats, etc. 
The vegetables include all those that 
grow, aud the frjiits are of every kind. 

Canned foods require very little cook- 
ing, corn and tomatoes only heating thor- 
oughly. String beans, limas or peas 
should have the liquid poured off and the 
vegetables freshened for a few minutes in 
cold water, then cook for a few moments. 

FRITTERS.— Are much better fried in 
dripping than in lard. 

CANNING FRUIT.— The usual quan- 
tities to use in canning fruits is one pound 
of sugar to four of fruit, and just enough 
water to keep from burning. More sugar 
can be added for very acid fruit. Have 
the cans air tight, either of glass or tin. 

TO COOK FRUIT.— Much fruit is 
nicer if cooked in the syrup, but hard 
fruit, such as quinces, hard pears, etc., 
should be first cooked in clear water and 
when done removed to the syrup and sim- 
ply scalded through. 

FRUIT EATING.— Never eat more 
than one kind of fruit at a meal, and let 
this one be sound and ripe. Uncooked 
fruit should be eaten without sugar to be 
perfectly wholesome. Raw fruit should 
be eaten early in the day by those of deli- 
cate digestion. 

FECULENT FRUITS.— Are names 
given to certain fruits, such as the chest- 
nut, that contains a certain amount of 
fecula; sweet potatoes may be included in 
these. 

STEWING FRUIT.— When stewing 
fruit it takes nearly twice as much sugar 
to sweeten it if added before cooking. 
Cook first, then sweeten to taste. 

HOW TO PACK FRUIT.— All fruit 
should be packed as it is gathered; do not 
let it stand for hours before sending it 
away, as it becomes flabby aud loses its 
flavor, especially small fruit. All fruit 
that has a bloom on should be first rolled 
separately in cotton wool, then put in a 
box with plenty of crumpled paper to pre- 
vent shaking. 

Fine pears and plums treated the same. 

Apples, plums aud ordinary pears to be 
rolled separately in paper. 

All small fruits to be packed in boxes 



GREY OR BLUE EYES AT BIRTH OFTEN" BECOME BROWN. 



37 



or baskets with layers of their own leaves 
between, and be well shaken down. 

Each kind of fruit to be packed by it- 
self, or if room is an object, never put the 
light ones with the heavy ones. 

Write two legible labels and tie on 
firmly; add the words "Fruit. Perishable, 
to be delivered at once." 

Send them in proper time to catch the 
train, so they do not lie in the station 
hours before leaving. 

WHEN AND HOW TO PICK 
FRUIT.— Fruit that has to be sent away 
by train or by express, should be picked 
on a perfectly dry day, and all hard- 
skinned fruit, like apples and pears should 
be wiped with a dry towel. The fruit 
must be ripe, but not over-ripe, or it will 
bruise at once, and spoil all the others. 

Pears should be one degree from hard- 
ness, as they ripen after they are picked. 

Plums to be gathered when ripe, but 
not over soft. 

Strawberries should be firm and red but 
not over-ripe. All small fruits the same. 
Be careful not to destroy the bloom ou 
peaches, apricots, plums, grapes and nec- 
tarines. Do not pick imperfect specimens 
of fruits. 

STORING APPLES AND PEARS.— 
Fern leaves when properly dried form 
an excellent bed for fruit to lie on and has 
not the same objection as straw, whie^i 
imparts an unpleasant flavor to the fruit. 
Fern leaves are a good protection against 
frost. 

They may also be put away in boxes or 
barrels with sawdust or excelsior; also in 
deep drawers one on the other without 
anything between, or else sheets of paper; 
that is, if the fruit be stored sound and 
dry, for they will certainly not keep if the 
least wormy. 

All fruits to be stored must be hand- 
picked, as those that fall from the trees 
are apt to be bruised and besides spoil 
easily. 

FRYING MATERIALS. — All fat 
skimmed from boiled meat and stock 
should be run down in a jar and saved for 
frying. 

Bacon fat is excellent for frying 
chicken and game. 

Fritters are much better fried in drip- 
ping than in lard. 

Never allow the frying material to run 
short. 

Olive oil is most hygienic for frying pur- 
poses. 

GOOSE FAT, TO RENDER DOWN.— 
Take all the fat that was removed from 
the inside of the bird when drawing it, or 
any other superfluous pieces. Put all in- 
to cold water and leave one day. Drain 
off the water and cut the fat into small 
pieces. Put these in a stewpan and melt 



slowly until nothing but skinny pieces re- 
main and the liquid fat. 

Strain it into a jar through a piece of 
fine muslin. When cold, cover tightly and 
keep in a cool place. Some put two sliced 
and peeled apples into the pan while the 
fat is melting. 

TO PREVENT GAME FROM 
TAINTING.— Pick and draw the birds, 
then rinse and aftei-wards rub them out- 
side and inside with salt, then take each 
one by a leg and plunge the birds one by 
one into boiling water. After they have 
been in five to six minutes take them out 
and hang them in a cool place till thoi-- 
oughly drained, when rub them inside and 
out with black pepper. 

These birds should be well washed be- 
fore cooking. 

Game can frequently be made fit to eat 
when apparently spoiled by cleaning nicely 
and washing with vinegar and water. 

GARNISHES FOR DISHES.— Garn- 
ishings not only improve the appearance 
of a dish, but in many cases they increase 
the nutritive value or bulk; for instance, 
a chicken might not be sufficient for six 
persons, but when stuffed and moderately 
garnished there would be enough. This 
applies to such garnishings as croutons, 
mushrooms, truffles, forcemeat balls, etc. 
Parsley, sliced lemon or watercress are 
merely accessories to improve the looks of 
the dish. 

BOILED HAM, TONGUE OR BEEP. 
— Should be cooled in the water in which 
i*- was boiled, as this makes it moist and 
tender. 

TO CURE HAMS.— The best season for 
curing and salting hams is from the 
month of October till the end of March. 

Begin the operation only after the ani- 
mal has been killed twenty-four hours, so 
that the flesh be perfectly cold and firm. 

Reject all bruised meats, made either 
by blows or by cuts. 

Rub each leg all over vigorously with 
ground saltpetre, and then with fine salt 
for ten minutes each, then lay them 
symmetrically one beside the other, so they 
keep their shape, and cover with a layer 
of salt; repeat the operation every three 
or four days. If the hams be large, this 
must continue for three or four weeks; if 
small eight to eleven days is sufficient. 
After each time, lay them as before, and 
recover with a layer of fine salt. This 
operation is called "Dry salting." 

Dry the hams before smoking them, 
and wrap them up in straw or in a cloth. 

"Wet salting." Put in a large cauldron 
the following ingredients: 25 quarts of 
water, 20 pounds of white salt, 2 pounds 
of rock salt, 6 pounds of sugar, 1 pound 
of saltnetre. Let boil for twenty minutfs, 
until all is well dissolved; take from the 



38 



SHELLS CONSIST OF CARBONATE OF LIME. 



fire aud leave to cool. To it add an in- 
fusion made of 2 ounces of thyme, 2 
ounces of sage, 2 bay leaves, 1 ounce 
of whole black peppers, 1 ounce of mar- 
joram, 1 ounce of basil, 1 ounce of cloves 
and 1 pint of boiling water; when this is 
cold, strain and put into the above brine. 
After the hams have been rubbed as for 
dry salting lay them one beside the other, 
pour the brine over to cover well, and turn 
them every three days. 

NO. 2. TO CURE HAMS.— To each 
moderate sized ham put half a pound of 
bay salt, half a pound of common salt, 
two ounces of saltpetre, one ounce of 
black pepper, half an ounce of Jamaica 
pepper, quarter of an ounce of cloves and 
half an ounce of nutmeg; stir all well to- 
gether and rub the ham well with the mix- 
ture, and let it lie for four days, turning 
and rubbing it well every day. On the 
fourth day pour over one and a half 
pounds of treacle, let it lie in this for one 
mouth, turning and rubbing frequently, 
then put the ham to soak in cold water for 
twenty-four hours. After that time take 
it out and hang up to dry but not to 
s-moke. 

When this ham is boiled put it into 
boiHng water and let boil for two and a 
half to three hours if it is a moderately 
sized one. 

TO SMOKE HAMS.— A wooden hut 
is needed with a chimney in the centre or 
simply a small opening. In the middle of 
the room make a bed of earth or stones; 
on this lay plenty of wood shavings or 
twigs cut short, well packed together. 
Set this on fire and cover at once with wet 
sawdust, then cover the whole with plenty 
more of it. This fire has to be kept con- 
tinuously smoking for eight days. Should 
the sawdust catch fire, put more of the 
wet on. Hang the hams that have been 
taken from the brine aud wrapped up in 
fetraw in such a way that the acridity of 
the smoke does not penetrate, and leave 
them hanging for two weeks. 

HOW TO MAKE ICE CREAM.- 
There are many inexpensive freezing ma- 
chines in the market, so that ices can be 
cheaply made at home, the process not 
being at all difficult. 

Do not fail to open the inside division 
frequently and well scrape down and mix 
the mixture. This is most essential, for 
being of tin it would otherwise freeze too 
quickly, thus causing the ice to be rough 
and lumpy, and the flavors not well 
blended. 

The ice and salt are put in at one end, 
and the mixture to be frozen in the other, 
so tlipfp is no danger of the salt getting 
into the latter. 

THE INGREDTENTS.-Shonld be of 
the best, good cream, ripe fruit, or, in 



winter, good canned fruit or jam of fine 
quality. No good ice can be made from 
second rate ingredients. Do not use any 
thickening substance, such as cornstarch, 
gelatine, etc. 

FREEZING MIXTURES.— Use half 
as much common salt as ice, putting them 
in layers. Break the ice in small pieces; if 
there be no proper ice pick, break it by 
gently hammering it with a hat pin or 
darning needle. When the mixture is 
frozen, allow it, if possible, to stand in the 
ice for about two hours to ripen. The 
flavors are then better blended. 

A SUBSTITUTE FOR A FREEZER. 

— If there is not a proper freezer on hand, 
pack a wooden tub or zinc bath with salt 
and ice; put the mixture in a milk pail and 
place it in the middle of the ice, then turn 
it rapidly round and round by the handle. 
This makes a capital substitute. 

STRAWBERRY AND VANILLA ICE 
CREAM.— Take the stalks from a pound 
of fresh strawberries and rub through a 
sieve. If jam is used, wai"m it, and rub 
ic through a sieve, this latter requiring no 
sugar. For the fresh fruit add a quarter 
of a pound of sugar aud one teaspoonful of 
lemon juice. Whip half a pint of cream 
till it will just hang on the whisk, then 
stir it thoroughly into the fruit, put the 
mixture into the freezer, shut down 
tightly, aud keep turning quickly or 
the thick part will settle. Every now and 
then open and with a knife or spatula 
scape from the sides and mix in any of the 
frozen particles; continue till all is eveuly 
frozen. Pack well round with salt and 
ice, cover over with a piece of old carpet 
aud leave for two hours, unless wanted im- 
mediately. Vanilla. — For the vanilla a 
boiled custard is required, which may be 
made the day before. When it is half 
frozen, add half a pint of whipped cream; 
beat this well in and continue the freez- 
ing. All unmoulded ices should be well 
beaten up before serving. 

WATER ICES.— These are made by 
putting one pound of loaf sugar with one 
quart of water on to boil; when a thifk 
syrup, take off and let get cold; add the 
flavoring, and freeze in the freezer, and 
add the well whifked white of four eggs. 
Beat well in and fre-jze till requu-ed. 

TO PRESERVE ICE.— Put the ice in a 
dish and cover it with a napkin, then set 
the dish upon a feather bed or pillow, and 
place another one on top. In this way a 
few pounds of ice may be kept for a week 
or more. 

No. 2.— Wrap the ice in a piece of old 
flannel, and if not required immediately, 
bury it in the ground. 

TO IMOULD JELLIES.— Soak the 
mould in cold v/ater, drain for hnlf a sec- 



THE HEAD HAS 77 MUSCLES. 



39 



ond, pour !n the jelly and put it away in 
a cool place to set. If placed directly on 
the ice it will harden sooner and be firmer 
when turned out. 

China moulds are preferable to tin ones, 
especially for red jellies; their color and 
transparency being often spoiled by the use 
of the metal. 

If fruits are to be added, put them in 
when the jelly is half set. 

TO UNMOTJLD JELLIES.— Dip the 

mould in hot water for one minute; wipe 
off the outside with a cloth, lay a dish on 
top of the mould, turn it over quickly and 
• the jelly should slip out easily. 

TO STRAIN JELLIES.— Wring a jelly 
bag out in hot water, fasten it onto a re- 
versed stool or chair, place it near the fire 
with a large basin under and run the jelly 
through. Repeat until the desired clear- 
ness and brilliancy is obtained. 

TO PURIFY RANCID LARD.— Take 
an ounce or two of chloride of soda and 
put it in a gallon of soft water. Make it 
almost boiling hot, then put in the rancid 
lard and let it boil for two hours— if there 
is much of it. Take it off and set it aside 
to cool. When cold, take the lard off the 
water, boil it up by itself, let it cool again 
and the lard will be as sweet as when first 
new. 

LEMON PEEL AS A FLAVORING. 
— A little of the lemon peel makes a de- 
licious flavoring for puddings, sauces, 
croquettes, etc., and is useful to have on 
hand. When the juice only of a lemon is 
used, save the peel, rinse it in clear water 
and let get dry. Grate it and put it in a 
glass bottle with a close cover. It will 
always be ready for use. 

TO BOIL A LOBSTER.— Put enough 
water into a large kettle to cover the lob- 
ster and a tablespoouful of salt to each 
quart of water, and a cupful of vinegar 
added. When it boils fast, put in the 
lobster, head first, this being the most 
humane way of killing it. Boil it briskly 
for about half an hour, then lift it out 
with a pair of tongs and lay it to drain. 
Wipe off the scum, tie a piece of butter in 
a cloth and rub the shell with it to make 
it nice and glossy. A two pound lobster 
will take twenty-five minutes to cook. 

TO SERVE A LOBSTER.— Break off 
the great claws crack them carefully in 
each joint, so tney may not be shattered 
and yet separate easily. Cut the tail down 
the middle with a sharp knife, place the 
body upright in the centre of a dish on a 
napkin, arranging the tail and claws on 
each side. The lady or stomach found 
under the head must be thrown away. 
This, the small vein running through the 
back of the tail, and the spongy pieces be- 
tween the body and shell, are the only 
parts not eatable. 



MARINADE— COLD.— Put meat or 
fish in a combination of oil, vinegar, salt, 
pepper, spice, lemon sliced and bayleaves. 
Leave in for more or less time, usually 
two days. 

HOT.— Boil for a quarter of an hour 

and then use for meats or fish; vinegar, 
water (half of each), sliced carrots, onions, 
salt, pepper and spice. 

MAYONNAISE.— In making a mayon- 
naise dressing, half a teaspoonful of white 
of egg, added before the oil, will prevent 
its curdling. 

FRIED MEATS.- A common error 
among inexperienced cooks is to put the 
chop or steak, or whatever meat has to be 
fried, into the pan with the cold butter 
or dripping, and then place it on the fire. 
Consequently, when the pan gets hot the 
juice of the meat is drawn from it, and 
by the time it is cooked it will be both 
dry and tough. 

FROZEN MEAT.— When meat is 
frozen it should be soaked in cold water 
until the frost is extracted. If not ex- 
tracted previous to cooking it will be 
spoilt. 

TO LARD MEATS.— Larding is often 
extremely useful, as in case of very lean 
meat or poultry. It adds to the nutritive 
value and flavor. Larding may be done 
with bacon, ham, tongue, truffles, gherkin, 
etc. 

THE NEEDLE.— The needle with 
which the strip is drawn through is called 
a larding needle; the strij) itself is called 
a lardoon, and this is inserted in the 
prongs of the needle. Needles of all sizes 
can be bought for a trifling cost. 

THE LARDOON.— To be a little 
smaller than the needle, and as cold as 
possible. If bacon it must be firm and 
free from lean. Larding bacon is cured 
without saltpetre, which reddens white 
meat. Cut off the rind from the slices 
and cut these in lengthwise strips; if cut 
r.cross, the tops of the lardoons will break 
off. Lean meat should be larded with fat 
and vice versa. Cut them all the same 
length and thickness. A useful length for 
lardoons is about two inches and an eighth 
of an inch thick, but, however, they vary 
according to the size of whatever is being 
larded. For a large fowl they must be 
longer and thicker than if for a thin slice 
of meat. 

TO LARD.— If a small piece of meat 
like a veal cutlet is to be larded, lay it 
upon a board and mark the three rows 
across it with the needle point; they 
should be about half an inch apart. Thread 
the needle and pass it through the meat; 
pull it gently, leaving half the lardoon out 
at each end; rethread the needle and con- 
tinue until all the larding is finished. Do 
not have the second row of stitches come 



40 



A HEALTHY MAN'S LIVER WEIGHS NEARLY 4 POUNDS. 



directl}' under the first, but between the 
spaces, so it presents an even checked ap- 
poarauce whtn finished. 

All larding is done the same way, but 
the number of rows varies, some having 
more than others. When finished, care- 
fully cut all the lardoons the same_ length, 
leaving about a quarter of an inch on 
either side. With a little practice it will 
be found very easy to execute. 

TO KEEP MEAT FRESH.— Cut the 
meat into slices as for frying; pack it in a 
jar with enough salt and pepper between 
each layer to make it palatable, then lay 
a thick cloth over. On this press a layer 
of salt an inch thick. Meat kept in this 
way will remain fresh for almost a month 
in the hottest weather. 

TO KEEP MEAT SWEET.— There 
are two ways of doing this; one is to 
cover the meat with milk, sour milk, but- 
termilk or sweet milk being equally effica- 
cious. 

Another highly recommended way is to 
cover it with sweet oil; it will keep for 
several days even where there is no ice. 
This is applicable especially for small 
pieces, such as kidneys, sweetbreads, cut- 
lets, etc. The oil can be used over again 
if strained and bottled. 

ROASTING MEAT should always be 
turned with a spoon instead of a fork, as 
the latter pierces the meat and lets the 
juice escape. 

TO ROAST MEAT.— The smaller the 
joint the hotter the oven should be. Of 
course the time required for roasting the 
joint is proportionately less than that 
needed for a large one. 

TOUGH MEAT.— Vinegar has the 
properties of softening and even dissolving 
the muscular fibre. Set a piece of very 
tough meat in a deep dish, cover it with 
diluted vinegar and the following morning 
it will be found to be quite tender. 

TO BROWN A MERINGUE.— Never 
place it in a hot oven; let it brown slowly 
in a cool oven, when it will rise and be 
light and spongy. 

BOILED OVER MILK.— If milk boils 
over on the stove a very unpleasant smell 
is the result. This may be cured by 
sprinkling a little common salt on the 
stove. 

CONDENSED MILK is preferable to 
inferior cow's milk for artificial feeding 
of infants, but it is never so good as tho 
ordinary milk. It is apt to contain too 
much sugar to be food for the baby's stom- 
acii, and never has the required quantity 
of fat constituent. 

TO KEEP MILK.— To keep milk for 
a long time sweet, or to remove the 
sourness when it has already appeared, 
add to it a small quantity of common 



soda, pearl ash or magnesia purchased 
at the druggist's. 

TO PRESERVE MILK.— Take clean, 
dry bottles and fill them with new milk, 
place them in a large stew-pan and put 
clean cloths between each to prevent 
breaking; set the pan filled with cold 
water on the fire and after it comes to 
a boil let it continue to cook till the milk 
has boiled for fifteen minutes. Remove 
the bottles, wipe carefully and cork 
tightly with very clean corks. 

TO PREVENT MILK FROM BURN- 
ING. — Rinse the pan with cold water 
before putting m the milk, or else add 
?ugar if the milk is to be sweetened. This 
prevents the bottom of the milk from 
scorching and the pan remains perfectly 
clean. 

TO STERILIZE MILK— Place a bot- 
tle of milk in a deep saucepan filled with 
cold water, bring it to a boil and let it 
continue to boil for ten minutes. Remove 
the bottle, allow to cool, then put it oa 
ice. 

TO DISTINGUISH MUSHROOMS 
FROM TOADSTOOLS.— (1) Sprinkle 
salt on the under side; if it turns them 
black the vegetable is edible, if yellow 
it is poisonous. Allow the salt time to 
act. 

(2) The gills of the mushroom are of a 
pinky red, changing to a liver color. The 
flesh is white; so is the stem, which is 
solid and cylindrical. 

(3) Toadstools have a warty cap and 
the fragments of membrane adhering to 
the upper surface are heavy and emerge 
from a valve or bag. They have an as- 
tringent, disagreeable taste; when cut they 
turn blue; their surface is moist and gen- 
erally of a rose or «»range color. 

TO MIX MUSTARD.— Add a salt- 
spoonful of salt and as much sugar and 
mix with boiling water. It will keep 
moist much longer and have a better taste. 
Or, mix with milk instead of water; it 
will not dry up so quickly. 

TO TEST NUTMEGS.— To test nut- 
megs prick them with a pin and if they 
are good the oil will instantly spread 
around the puncture. 

TO REMOVE ODOR OF ONIONS.— 
Rub the hands on celery after using on- 
ions and the smell will instantly disappear. 
The outer leaves may be saved for this 
purpose. 

ORANGE RINDS.— Saved and dried 
make the best of kindling, owing to the 
volatile oil contained in the skin. 

HEAT OF THE OVEN.— To judge 
of an oven's heat try it every ten min- 
utes with a piece of white paper; if 
too hot the paper will b'aze up or blacken. 



THE STOMACH CONVERTS FOOD INTO A PULP CALLED CHYME. 4l 



When the paper becomes dark brown 
the oven is fit for small pastry. When 
light brown it is ready for tarts. When 
the paper turns dark yellow you can 
bake bread, large meat pies or large pound 
cakes, while if it is just tinged the oven 
is fit for sponge cake, meringues, etc. 

TO KEEP PARSLEY A GOOD COL- 
OR. — For parsley sauce tie it in a bunch, 
throw into boiling water and boil five 
minutes. Chop finely and add to the 
sauce in the usual manner, but de not 
let it boil after the parsley has been 
added. 

PARSLEY JUICE FOR COLORING. 

— Pound some parsley leaves in a mortar, 
strain the juice into a jar, stand this 
in a saucepan of boiling water, or in a 
double boiler, as the water must not boil 
over the edges, and keep it by the side 
of the fire till the parsley juice is warm. 
It is then ready for use. 

TO POWDER PARSLEY.— Dip the 

bunch quickly into boiling water to make 
the parsley a brilliant green, then put 
in a hot oven for a few minutes to dry 
thorougiily. After this it may be broken 
into fine flakes and passed through a 
coarse sieve. 

Parsley will keep doubly as long if 
put in an airtight tin instead of in wa- 
ter. 



POTATO PEEL, HOW TO DISPOSE 
OF. — This is often a serious question 
when garbage has to be economized. The 
following system is good for two reasons, 
it saves money and clears rubbish. Di- 
loctly the potatoes are peeled put the 
peelings where they will drain a bit and 
at night before retiring place in the oven 
so as to bake them quite hard. 

These crisp shavings will be found ex- 
f-ellent for lighting fires and diminish the 
quantity of wood required. Peels thus 
treated have no smell and are always 
acceptable. 

POTATO PEELINGS.— Intended f«r 

ciiicken food should always be boiled ten- 
der in an old saucepan kept for the pur- 
pose. 

TO JUDGE TENDER POULTRY.— 
An excellent test is to press the windpipe 
iiad if a crackling noise issues the fowl 
ir- young and tender, but if it makes no 
; ;iund then it is old and therefore tough. 

PIES. — Raised pies should have a 
naick oven, well closed, or they will 
fall in at the sides. 

No pie should have water put in till 
nady to be put in the oven, as it makes 
the crust bad and is almost certain to 
Make the pie run. Light paste requires 
R moderate but not too slow oven, as 
that will tend to make it soggy. 



A quick oven will scorch and burn and 
not give it time for a second rising. 

Tarts that are iced require a slow oven 
or the icmg will brown and the paste 
not be baked. 



PUDDINGS. 

BAKED.— Bread and custard puddings 
reqmre time and a moderate oven that will 
raise and not burn them. Batter and rice 
puddings require a quick oven, and always 
butter the pan or dish before putting tlhem 
in. 

BU1LP:D.— In boiling, be careful the 
cloth IS clean, dip it in boiling water, flour 
it well and give it a shake. 

If the pudding is boiled in a basin, butter 
it over, and have plenty of water, turn it 
often and do not cover the pan. 

When done, take it up in the basin, untit 
the string, wrap the cloth round the basin, 
lay the serving dish over it, turn the pud- 
ding out. Take off the basin and cloth 
carefully, or the pudding will break and 
be disfigured. 

BATTE* PUDDING.— When making 
either a baked or boiled batter pudding, 
never add sugar till it is cooked. 

TO BOIL A PUDDING.— Always turn 
a pudding on its side wlhen putting it on 
to boil, if an enamelled saucepan is used. 
Turned right way up is likely to make the 
enamel chip. 

PUDDING BOILED IN A MOULD.— 

Take it from the saucepan when done, 
plunge it into cold water, then turn it out 
immediately. This will prevent sticking. 

PUDDING CLOTHS should never be 
washed with soap, but should be wrung 
out in hot water and dried quickly. 

STEAMED PUDDINGS are lighter 
than boiled ones, but longer time sbotild 
be allowed for cooking them. 

TO STEAM PUDDINGS.— Stand the 
moulds with the contents upwards on a 
fold of paper in a stewpan containing 
boiling water to reach up to about tlhree 
parts of the depth of the mould. Watch 
the water come again to the boil, put the 
cover on the pan, then withdraw it to 
one side of the fire and let the contents 
simmer the necessary time. 

TO STONE RAISINS,— Soak them for 
a minute or two in boiling water and then 
the seeds can easily be removed with the 
fingers, taking care not to break the fruit, 

TO KEEP SALT DRY AND FINE.— 
When table salt becomes caked, mix with 
it a pinch of ground arrowroot and the salt 
will remain perfectly dry and fine what- 
ever the temperature. 

TO PREVENT SALT FROM CAK- 
IN(j._After each meal turn the salt out 
of the salt-cellars and mash it well in a 



"42 



THE BRAINS OF BLACKS AND WHITES ARE THE SAME COLOR. 



mortar, then put it back and smooth over 
with the back of a knife. The salt will 
then look like adamant, which it very 
seldom does. 

POISONOUS SALT.— Do not keep salt 
in a tin can. Its moisture forms a rust 
that is fatal and produces the worst kind 
of blood poisoning. 

TO COOK A SAUCE.— Too rapid 
boiling ruins the flavor of any sauce. It 
must boil once, and never do more than 
simmer afteiTvards. 

SPOONFULS OR SPOONSFUL.-A 
common error is frequently made by the 
misappropriation of these words, yet a 
little thought will quickly show which one 
to use. Two spoonsful means two distinct 
spoons, while two spoonfuls means a cer- 
tain quantity doubled, therefore spoon- 
fuls must be the right expression. 

STUFFING FOR ROAST GOOSE 
OR DUCK is much improved if a finely 
chopped apple is added to the other in- 
gredients. 

TO RENDER SUET.— Cut fresh suet 
into pieces and cover with cold water; let 
it stand a day, changing the water once. 
This removes the strong taste. Put it iuto 
an iron kettle with half a teacup of milk 
to each pound of suet and cook slowly till 
the fat is clear and of a light brown color 
and until the crackling noise has ceased. 
Loosen the pieces from the bottom with a 
spoon, but do not stir. Let stand till 
partly cold, then pour into a vessel to cool 
thoroughly. This is equal to butter and 
can easily take its place. 

TO COOK FRUIT TARTS.— To pre- 
vent the juice from running out of the 
tarts in the oven, make a little opening in 
the upper crust and insert perpendicularly 
a straw or thin roll of white paper. The 
steam will escape through it as a chimney 
and all the juice will be retained in the 
pie. 

SUGAR IN TARTS.— Always put the 
sugar used in the centre of the fruit, not 
on top, for it makes the crust sodden. 

TO COOK TOMATOES.— Cook them, 
if possible, in earthenware and enamelled 



saucepans. Avoid using tin and iron, as 
the juice is acid. 

TO COOK TURNIPS.— When cooking 
turnips always put a little sugar to the 
water in which they are boiled. 

TO BOIL VEGETABLES.— Vegetables 
contain large amounts of sugar and starch 
called carbohydrates. 

Soft water will best preserve the color 
of green vegetables. Boil the water with 
a little salt first, skim it perfectly clean be- 
fore putting in the greens, adding them 
only when the water boils briskly; the 
quicker they boil the greener they will be. 
When the vegetables sink they are gen- 
erally done enough, if the water has been 
kept constantly boiling. Take them up im- 
mediately, and drain off the water thor- 
oughly. If they remain a minute or two 
too long over the fire, they lose their 
beauty and flavor. 

COOKING VEGETABLES.— A piece 
of red pepper pod the size of a pea 
dropped in with the vegetables when cook- 
ing will help to kill the odor. This should 
be remembered in cooking cabbage. 

FROSTED GREEN VEGETABLES 
may be restored by steeping in cold water 
twelve hours before boiling. Potatoes and 
other roots should be peeled, then steeped 
for an hour, and when boiled a small piece 
of saltpetre should be added to the water. 
To extract frost from vegetables, cover 
over with salted water after prepared for 
cooking. 

TO REMOVE VEGETABLE STAINS. 
— To remove stains from the hands after 
peeling apples, pears or potatoes, first 
wash the hands without any soap, and, 
while still wet, rub them with pumic? 
stone and afterwards wash with soap and 
water. 

VINEGAR.— A little vinegar added to 
water in which fish is boiled will make 
the fish firmer and add to its flavor. 

It will also make tough meat more ten- 
der. 

WINE IN COOKING.— Wine increases 
the taste of salt, so when it is used for 
flavoring, very little salt should be put in 
till after the wine is added. 



QUARANTINE WAS CONTKIVED BY THE VENETIAN'S IN 1437. 



43 



The Pantry 



JAMS. — It is important that the fruit 
to be used for makiug jam be perfectly 
tresh and sound and not over-ripe. For 
strawberries, raspberries, gooseberries, 
currants, plums and damsons an equal 
Aveight of suirar and fruit should be used 
to ensure the jam keeping. 

THE SUGAR.— It is poor economy to 
use inferior sugar. Well crushed sugar 
is the best kind. Common sugars spoil 
the Havor. 

THE PAN. — An enamelled preserving 
pan is the next best to a copper pan. 
Have it in perfect condition and quite 
dry, and never put in any -tvater with 
the fruit. 

TO MAKE THE JAM.— Pack the pan 
with a layer of fruit and a layer of 
sugar until it is three parts full. Stir 
Avhen necessary with a wooden spoon and 
when the sugar is melted and the fruit 
has boiled up, three-quarters of an hour's 
quirk boiling (stirring constantly during 
the time), is, as a rule, sufficient for most 
fruits. 

Boiling the jam longer than is neces- 
sary will diminish the flavor and spoil 
the color. 

TO SKIM. — Remove all the scum 
which rises during the boilins> process, 
and if placed on a sieve the clear liquid 
which runs from it can be poured back 
into the preserving pan. 

TO KNOW WHEN DONE.— To know 
this follow the old but sure test of put- 
ting a little on a plate, and if, when cool, 
it is rather firm and inclined to "jelly" 
it is ready to be taken off. 

TO BOTTLE.— Allow the jam time to 
cool a little, then pour it into warm, dry 
jars or bottles, but do not cover until it 
has stood for at least twelve hours. Then 
use rounds cf foolscap paper soaked in 
brandy or gin and parchment covers un- 
less the patent covered jars are used. 

Many persons cover the jars while the 
jams are boiling hot, as they say it in- 
sures their safe keeping, but also they 
must be airtight. 

JAM MAKING TABIiE.— The follow- 
ing table will give the quantity of w&ter 
and sugar required for ordinary jams, 
although no strict rule should h'^ adhered 
to, as so much depends on the condiiion 
of the fruit. If over-ripe or moist, leave 
out all or part of the water; if very sour 
add more sugar. 



Apple— % of a pound of sugar when 
peeled and cored, 1 giU of water to a 
pound. Apricot— Equal weight of sugar 
after stoning, 1 gill of water to 1 pound. 
Blackberry— Equal weight of sugar no 
water. Cherry— % pound of sugar to a 
pound, % pint of red currant juice 
to each 2 pounds fruit. Currant (red)— 
Equal weight of sugar, no water. Cur- 
rant (black) — Equal weight of sugar, ^ 
gili of water to 1 pound. Damson- 
Equal weight of sugar, no water. Green- 
gage— % pound before stoning, no water. 
Gooseberry— Equal weight of sugar, ^ 
gKi of water to 1 pound. Plum— % pound 
of sugar to a pouud, no water. Rasp- 
berry-Equal weight of sugar, no water. 
Rhubarb— Equal weight of sugar, % gill 
of water to 1 pound. Strawberry— Equal 
weight of sugar, no water. 

HINTS FOR JAM-MAKING.— See 

that the fruit is dry. 

Free from dust, nor yet over nor under- 
ripe. 

Gather it in the early morning. 

Keep it in a cool place if not boiled at 
once. 

If two fruits are mixed together, put the 
hardest kind in first. 

Remove all scum as it rises, and stir 
gently, but thoroughly now and then. 

The time of boiling depends on the 
quantity. 

It should boil fast, as slow cooking will 
spoil the color of the fruit. 

Boil till if a spoonful is put on a cold 
plate it jellies when cold. 

To most fruits and all acid kinds allow 
equal quantities of fruit and sugar. 

It is said if the fruit is boiled before 
being added to the sugar, it will never 
ferment. But if over-ripe and put on with 
the sugar, it will surely do so. 

Butter the bottom of the pan, this will 
prevent the jam from sticking and burn- 
ing. Pour the jam into clean, dry jars 
and cover when hot. 

Keep ia a cool, dry place. 
COMBINATIONS OP FRUIT FOB 
JAM. 

Black currant and apple 

Black currant and rhubarb. 

Red currant and ra&pberry. 

Red and white currants. 

Cherry and raspberry. 

Blackberry and apple. 

Apple and quinct\ 

Gooseberry and raspberry. 

Rhubarb and orange. 



44 



MEDICINE IS AS OLD AS MAN. 



JELLIE5. — In makiug jellies be care- 
ful that uoao of the seeds of the fruit shall 
fall iuto t!i-iui, neither squeeze too tight or 
the jelly instead of beiug clear is clotty 
f.ud discolored. lu adding the sugar al- 
ways let it dissolve in the juice or syrup 
before puttiug it on the fire. Never boil 
the fruit furiously or the color will be 
spoiled. 

i'ut the fruit into a clean preserving pan 
and stir over a clsar fire till the juice 
Mows from them fr-iely, then turn it out 
into a fine hair sieve, and let drain well 
without pressure; strain through a jelly 
bag, weigh the liquid and boil it up fast 
for fifteen minutes; then to each cupful 
put in a cupful of coarsely powdered 
fcugar, stii- this to it off the tire till it is 
dissolved; boil again quickly for eight min- 
utes, then pour it out. 

Be sure and clean off the scum as it 
rises, both before and after the sugar is 
put in or it will not be clear. 

CLARIFIED SYRUP FOR JELLIES. 
— Have little more than a pint of water 
for every pound of loaf sugar, and w.>ien 
this is dissolved, add cold water. Stir all 
together on the fire and when the syrup be- 
gins to boil, remove it vuq side to con- 
tinue gently boiling until it has thrown up 
all the scum; skim this off as fast as it 
rises to the surface, strain the syrup 
through a napkin into a basin and set it 
in a cool place for use. 

PRESERVES.— A very economical way 
for making preserves is to boil the fruit 
for a long time and skimming it well with- 
out any sugar and without a cover, for in 
this way the bulk of the scum rises from 
the fruit and not from the sugar. Boil- 
ing it without a cover allows the evapora- 
tion of all the watery aprticles and ren- 
ders the preserves firm and well-flavored. 

PROPORTIONS.— The proportions are 
three-quarters of a pound of sugar to 
every pound of fruit, adding the sugar 
after the skimming is completed. 

TTTENSTLS. — The best pans are eartli- 
ern or else those lined with glass or porce- 
lain. Copper or brass are apt to give the 
preserves a bad color and taste. 

TO KEEP PRESERVES.— Keep them 
in a cool but dry place, for if put in a hot 
or damp closet, they will become candled. 

If they are not put up in patent jars, 
they can be kept by wetting a piece of 
clean white paper with brandy; lay it on 
top of the preserves, and then take two 
thicknesses of tissue or blotting paper 
soaked in white of egg, and a third sheet 
laid on top of these so that it will adhere, 
and lay these three papers over the jar. 
and fit "it down close and tight. When dry 
this forms an airtight cover without 
tying; it should lap over about two inches. 



APPLE BUTTER.— Reduce some 
sweet cider to two-thirds and in this put 
peeled, sliced and cored apples. Put it 
back on the fire, and boil carefully, while 
stirring to prevent burning. When the 
apples are dissolved and the marmalade 
forms a jelly, take from off the fire and 
pour it into pots the same as for jams or 
jellies. 

APPLE JELLY.— Core, but do not peel 
the apples; cut them in two or more 
pieces and discard any decayed portions. 
Wash the apples and put them in a large 
preserving pan with sufiicient water to pre- 
vent burning. Let simmer while stirring 
occasionally till they are reduced to a 
pulp. Pour this into a cheesecloth bag. 
Place this over a deep pan, suspended on 
a broom-handle, laid across the backs or 
two chairs; let it drip through all night, 
without touching or else the liquid will bi' 
cloudy. In the morning measure the liquid 
and allow a cup of sugar to each cup of 
liquid. Boil the liquid alone for about 
twenty minutes or until it becomes slightly 
syruped, then add the sugar and boil for 
ten minutes longer. Pour into glasses and 
cover with paper smeared with sweet oil. 

CANDIED CITRON AND LEMON 
PEEL. — Cut the citron into convenient 
slices for drying, remove all the pits, then 
boil in water till they can be pierced with 
a fork, drain through a colander. Pour a 
pint of boiling water over the rind of four 
lemons, and let stand over night, then add 
four pounds of sugar and set it on the 
fire. When hot put in all the citron the 
syrup will cover, and boil till the fruit is 
clear or the syrup has penetrated through 
it. Drain, and lay the citron on plates to 
dry, and keep adding more fruit to the 
syrup till all is used up. Dry the lemon 
and this makes candied lemon peel. 

GREENGAGES IN BRANDY.— The 
fruit should not be over-ripe but quite 
sound. Allow ten ounces of sugar for each 
pound of fruit; boil the sugar with a quar- 
ter of a pint of water to each pound, and 
when dissolved, pour it when boiling over 
the fruit. 

Let it remain in this syrup for two 
days, then boil the plums very carefully 
for about twenty minutes, till clear but 
not broken. Take them from the pan 
with a spoon and put them into wide 
mouthed bottles; boil the syrup up again 
for ten mmntes, let it cool, then add as 
much good brandy. When cold fill the 
bottles, cover with a bladder and keep in 
a cool, dry place. 

Plums of all kinds are prepared the 
same way. 

TO DRY CHERRIES.— Take the 
stems and stones from ripe cherries; 
spread them on flat dishes and dry them m 
the hot sun or warm oven. 



HIPPOCRATES EXTENDED SURGERY IN" THE 4tH CENTURY B. C. 



45 



Whatever juice runs from them, keep 
pouring over and stir them about that they 
may dry evenly. When they are perfectly 
dry, line boxes with white paper and pack 
them close iu layers, or jars will answer 
for this. Strew iu a little brown sugar, 
fold the paper over and keep them in a dry 
place. 

They may be put in muslin bags and 
hung in an airy place. 

BRANDY CHERRIES.— Choose good, 
sound, not over-ripe cherries; cut ofE half 
their stalks, and lay the fruit in a basin 
with a few cloves and a little cinnamon 
stick. Clarify a quarter of a pound of 
sugar for each pound of cherries and each 
quart of brandy. When the sugar is well 
cooked, pour the brandy over it; mix well 
together and when cold pour it over the 
cherries. Cork the bottles, cover with a 
wet paper, then tie. 

FRUITS BOTTLED WITHOUT 
SUGAR. — Pick the fruit when quite dry 
and ripe, free them from stalks and put 
them in very dry, wide-necked bottles, giv- 
ing an occasional shake so the bottle may 
be well filled, then cork down tightly. 
Have a large pan of boiling water, stand 
in the bottles so that they are partly cov- 
ered, place some hay between each bottle, 
and see that the corks do not get wet, 
otherwise the fruit will not keep. 

Stand the pan in a very moderate oven, 
or on the side of the range for three and 
a half to four hours, then set aside until 
cold. Take the bottles from the water, 
—knock the corks in tightly and tie down 
with a bladder or piece of leather. Keep 
in a dry, cool place. 

CURRANT JAM.— Have equal quanti- 
ties of good picked fruit and loaf sugar. 

Boil the fruit first with two tablespoon- 
fuls of water to each pound of currants, 
keep it skimmed till quitr clear and bright, 
boil for twenty minutes, then add the sugar 
and stir occasionally to keep from bui'uing. 
Continue the boiling and skimming from 
twenty-five to thirty minutes, then put into 
<lry, clean jars and cover when cold with 
foolscap paper steeped in brandy. Tie 
down with brown paper or bladder and 
store away in a cool, dry place. 

Red, white or black currants are pre- 
pared all in the same way. 

QUINCE JELLY.— Pare and slice suffl- 
ciem quantity of quinces. Put them in a 
preserving pan with just enough boiling 
water to float them. 

Boil till quite soft; strain off the juice, 
but do not rub the pulp through. 

Measure the juice back into a clean pan, 
and to each pint allow one pound of loaf 
sugar. Boil and skim well for about three- 
quarters of an hour, or till when some of 
it is poured onto a plate, it jellies when 
cold. 



The pulp makes a good common marma- 
lade for immediate use, by putting it into 
a saucepan with half a pound of sugar to 
each pound of pulp. 

ORANGE MARMALADE.— Well wash 
and wipe twelve bitter oranges, four sweet 
oranges and two lemons. Divide all in 
quarters and carefully remove every pip. 
Slice them all very thinly and put the 
slices to soak in six quarts of cold water 
for twenty-four hours. Put all into a pan 
aud add ten pounds of lump sugar; boil 
carefully for an hour and a half or until 
some will jelly on a plate when cool. Put 
in jars, and when cold, tie down tightly. 
The most common fault in homemade 
marmalade is that the fruit is sliced too 
thickly. Before cutting up the fruit, have 
the knives thoroughly sharpened. 

PRESERVED GINGER.-Place the 
root-ginger in boiling water every night 
and morning for fifteen days, then remove 
the outside skin with a sharp knife. Boil 
the ginger in water till quite tender, and 
after cut it in lengths. Prepare 4 syrup of 
one pound of sugar to half a pint of water, 
clarify it and put in the ginger. Boil till 
quite clear. Allow the preserve to get 
quite cold before putting it into jars. 

WATERMELON PRESERVE.— Cut 
a good, sound watermelon into inch thick 
slices, then in inch squares; take out the 
seels with a small skewer, being careful 
not to tear the pieces, which must be of 
the red part only. Have three pounds of 
sugar to five of the fruit, cover the melon 
with clear, cold water and let boil slowly 
for two hours, then add the sugar and 
boil slowly till it forms into a syrup. 
Take from off the fire, add a teaspoonful 
of vanilla extract or a few slices of lemon. 
Finish and bottle the same as for other 
preserves. 

SPICED STRAWBERRIES.— These 

make an excellent relish. Allow two 
pounds of sugar for three pounds of the 
hulled fruit, half a pint of vinegar and 
a tablespoonful each of cinnamon and 
cloves. Put all in the pan together, bring 
to a boil, then cook slowly for half an 
hour. Put them up in small half-pint 
jars. 

PICKLES, — Avoid using copper or 
brass vessels to make them a handsome 
green color, for this can be done by pour- 
ing the vinegar on hot instead of cold, and 
the action of the chemical vinegars upon 
copper and brass kettles produces the 
most frightful poisons. 

THE VINEGAR.— There are three 
methods of pickling; the most simple is to 
put the article into cold vinegar. The 
strongest white M'ine vinegar should be 
vised. For white pickles use distilled vine- 
gar. 



46 DR. JEXNER MADE THE FIRST EXPERIMENT IN VACCINATION IN 1796. 



COLD VINEGAR.— The cold vinegar 
is for those vegetables hot in themselves 
that do not require the addition of spice 
nor do not require to be softened by heat. 
Half till the jars with best vinegar, iill 
them up with such vegetables as capsicum, 
garlic, shallots, nasturtiums, small onions, 
horseradish, etc., and tie down immedi- 
ately. These vegetables are all much bet- 
ter "when pickled quite fresh and all of a 
size. The onions should be dropped in 
ihe vinegar as fast as peeled; this secures 
their color. The horseradish should be 
slightly scraped and cut up in half inch 
thick rounds. 

HOT VINEGAR.— Heat the vinegar 
and spice and pour them hot over the 
vegetables to be pickled, these being al- 
ready prepared by sprinkling with salt or 
immersing in brine. Do not let the vine- 
gar come to a boil or its strength will 
evaporate. The best way is to put the 
vinegar and spice in a well covered jar, 
tie a bladder over and let it stand on the 
edge of the range or on a trivet for three 
or four days, shaking it well three or four 
times a day. 

This is for cauliflower, cabbage, string 
beans, onions, gl.erkius, etc. 

PAR-BOILED PICKLES.— This pick- 
ling is done over the fire to a greater or a 
less degree in order to scald the vegetables, 
such as beetroots, cabbage, walnuts, 
mushrooms, and sometimes onions and 
cauliflower. 

HINTS ON PICKLING. 

1. Vinegar for pickling should be sharp, 
but not the very sharpest, as it injures 
the vegetables. 

2. If copper, or any metal vessels are 
used, never allow the vinegar to cool in 
them; this is poisonous. 

3. Keep pickles only in wood, stone or 
glassware. 

4. Any vessel that has held grease will 
spoil pickles. 

5. Keep enough vinegar in the jars to 
cover the pickles. 

6. Stir pickles occasionally, remove any 
soft ones, rescald the vinegar, and pour it 
back hot. 

7. Do not boil vinegar and spice above 
five minutes. 

8. Prepare vinegar for pickling by add- 
ing a teaspoonful of alum, a teacupful of 
salt to three gallons of vinegar, and a 
bag containing pepper, ginger root and 
other spices. 

PICKLED RED CABBAGE.— Quarter 
the cabbages, remove all the outer leaves 
and the stalks and cut them into fine 
shreds. Spread on a dish and sprinkle 
thickly with salt and let remain for 
twenty-four hours. Drain the cabbage on 
a cloth. Put it in bottles and fill up with 
cold spiced vinegar. 



PICKLED CUCUMBERS.— Leave at 

least an inch of stem on each cucumber, 
and wash well in cold water. Put a layer 
of salt on the bottom of a keg, then a 
layer of cucumbers, and so on, finishing 
with a layer of salt. Cut a board to fit 
inside the barrel, bore half-inch holes here 
and there over it, lay this over with a very 
heavy weight on top. Each day take off 
the scum that rises. Keep the keg in a 
shady place for four weeks, when the cu- 
cumbers will be fit for use. They can be 
covered with boiling hot vinegar, after 
washing them well. 

TO PICKLE NASTURTIUM SEEDS. 
— Gather the pods on a dry day and rub 
them clean in a dry cloth, fill a glass jar 
or bottle nearly full with them. Boil 
some vinegar with salt and whole peppers 
in the proportion of half an ounce of salt 
and six peppers to each pint of vinegar. 
Pour the boiling vinegar into the jar; when 
cold cork and tie down tightly. Should 
there not be enough seeds to fill the jar, 
pickle and tie down as many as there are, 
and add fresh ones as they are gathered. 
They require to be left about a year be- 
fore using. 

VINEGAR PICKLES.— Brush the 
pickles off one by one, cutting off the 
stalks; sprinkle freely with fine salt and 
wrap them in a white muslin bag. Shake 
this well to allow the salt to reach them 
all, then hang the bag in a cool place for a 
few days. Put the pickles into their bot- 
tles with only a few small, raw, white 
onions and fill up with the best cold vine- 
gar, adding half a glassful of strong 
brandy to each bottle. These are far 
superior to those prepared with hot vine- 
gar. 

TO DETECT COPPER IN PICKLES. 
— Immerse a clean, bright iron wire for a 
few hours in the vinegar of the pickle. If 
there be any copper, it will have formed 
a very thin crust on the wire. 

ESSENCE OP ANCHOVIES.— Bone 
one pound of anchovies, pulp in a stone 
mortar and pass through a hair or wire 
sieve. Boil the bones and the portion that 
will not go through the sieve in one pint 
of water for fifteen minutes, then strain. 
To this strained liquor add two and a half 
ounces each of salt and flour, as well as 
the pulp, and simmer the whole for three 
or four minutes. Remove from the fire, 
cool and mix in half a pint of strong pick- 
ling vinegar. Bottle and secure with wax 
or bladder. 

LIEBIG'S EXTRACT OF MEAT.— 
Take one ounce of freshly killed lean beef 
and chop it very small, put it with eight 
ounces of cold water, shake well for ten 
minutes; heat gradually to boiling, let sim- 
mer gently for a few minutes, and while 
hot strain through a hair sieve; reduce it 



MILK CONTAINS A QUANTITY OF LIME. 



47 



to a soft mass. One pound of meat yields 
barely one ounce. 

TO BOTTLE STRING BEANS.— Cut 
the beans into convenient lengttis and boil 
them until almost tender, allowing a table- 
spoonful of salt to every quart of water. 
Bottle them at once and fasten down 
tightly. The next morning turn the bot- 
tles over, and if the slightest moisture is 
on the edges, open, boil them once more 
and rebottle again while steaming hot. 
Other vegetables can be prepared the same 
way. 

TO BOTTLE GREEN PEAS.— HavQ 
the peas as perfect and as even sized as 
possible; put them in very dry, wide- 
mouthed bottles, cork down and place 
them in a large saucepan of cold water. 
Bring' this gradually to boiling point and 
simmer till the peas look tender, then 
take out the bottles, fill up with boiling 
water salted as if the peas were being 
boiled, and cork quite airtight, covering 
the tops with sealing-wax. Then put the 
bottles back again into the boiling water 
and let them remain till cold. To prevent) 
the bottles knocking together, they should 
be wrapped round with straw before put- 
ting them in the saucepan. 

FRENCH MUSTARD.— Take a quar- 
ter of a pound of the best yellow mustard; 
pour over enough equal parts of vinegar 
and water to make a very thin paste; add 
a pinch of salt and a bit of calamus root 
not larger than a small pea. Set it on the 
stove, and while it boils, stir in a table- 
spoonful of flour. Let it boil twenty min- 
utes, stirring constantly. Just before it is 
done mix in a small teaspoonful of honey. 
When cool, put it in bottles and cork 
very tight. This is the real French mus- 
tard, for which a high price is paid, 

CHILI SAUCE.— Scald and peel six 
large tomatoes; chop finely together four 
green peppers and one peeled onion, and 
mix with one tablespoonful of salt, one of 
sugar and a cup and a half of good, strong 
vinegar. Boil all together for one hour 
and bottle while hot. This sauce will 
keep for years. 

CHUTNEY SAUCE.— Pound one pound 
each of sour apples, figs, tomatoes and 
brown sugar. Add one ounce of ground 
ginger, two ounces of garlic, the same of 
onions, one ounce of cayenne pepper and 
half pound of salt. Put the ingredients, 
after they are pounded, in a large jar, mix 
in a quart of lemon juice and three quarts 
of vinegar. Set the jar in a place warm 
enough to raise bread, and keep it there 
a month, stirring it twice a day. Pour off 
the top liquor, keep it tightly corked in 
bottles for seasoning and put the chut- 
ney — the thick bottom portion — in wide 
mouthed bottles for table use. 

SPICED PEPPER.— Carefully pick the 
stalks from one and a half ounces of bay- 



leaves, the same quantity of dried thyme, 
and three-quarters of an ounce of mar- 
joram. Pound these in a mortar with one 
and a half ounces of grated nutmeg, one 
and a half ounces of paprika, three-quart- 
ers of a pound of freshly ground black 
pepper, and a quarter of an ounce of red 
pepper. When all is reduced to a fine 
powder, pass through a sieve and bottle, 
using a very sound cork. This is useful 
for forcemeats, pies, braised meats, etc. 

SPICED VINEGAR.-Put a quart of 
good, strong vinegar in a jar with an 
ounce of ginger, a teaspoonful of salt, two 
ounces of whole black peppers, half an 
ounce of allspice berries and a bayleaf or 
two. Cover the jar and let it stand in a 
warm corner near the stove for two or 
three days, then place it in a saucepan of 
boiling water and simmer it for one or two 
hours. 

TO CAN TOMATOES.— The cheapest 
and best way is to put them up in stone 
jugs, and if well sealed and kept in a cool, 
dry place, but not allowed to freeze, they 
will last over a year in a perfect condition. 

Cook the tomatoes as for a stew but 
without any seasoning whatever; after 
they are thoroughly cooked, pour them into 
the hot jugs while still hot and seal them 
down. 

TO CAN TOMATOES WHOLE.— 
Take good, sound, solid, red tomatoes, but 
not over-ripe; scald and skin them; put 
them in a pan and pour boiling water 
over. Let them stand on the range till 
they are well scalded and the water comes 
to a boil. Have the cans warm, put the 
tomatoes in and seal securely. They will 
slice up like fresh in a year. 

TOMATO CATSUP.— Put some sound, 
ripe tomatoes into a deep stone jar, 
cover it and set it in a saucepan of 
water, and simmer over the fire until the 
tomatoes are quite soft; pass them through 
a sieve, and measure pulp and juice. To 
every three pints allow one pint of chili 
vinegar, one ounce of bruised ginger, three 
or four cloves of garlic, half a teaspoon- 
ful of celery seed, a small piece of mace, a 
dozen whole peppers and a teaspoonful of 
salt. Tie the spices in a muslin bag; 
boil them in vinegar to extract the fiavor 
before adding them to the tomatoes. Put 
pulp, vinegar and spices into an enameled 
pan, and boil gently for three-quarters of 
an hour. When done, remove the spice 
bag, and bottle the catsup. The follow- 
ing day cork and keep in a dry place. 

CARVING.— A bad carver is a ruina- 
tion in a family, for we all know how 
much farther a joint or a bird will go 
when skillfully cut up, than when ruth- 
lessly slashed against the grain without 
any attempt to judiciously mingle fat and 
lean, superior with inferior cuts. 



48 THE ASIATIC ELEPHANT IS MORE RATIONAL THAN THE AFRICAN. 



Insist that only a very small quantity of 
gravy be sent up in the dish; let the rest 
be in a sauceboat. Gravy adds greatly to 
a bad carver's difficulties. A good carver 
should sit, not stand. Have a chair some- 
what higher than the usual one. See that 
your carving knife is sharp. 

There lies half the battle. 

The carving fork must be two-pronged 
and with a spring-guard to prevent the 
knife slipping and cutting the left hand. 

Many find it a terrible difficulty to re- 
member which are considered the best cuts 
in different joints, especially poultry and 

The followmg directions are somewhat 
limited, but will help to guide and assist 
those who are learning the art of carving. 

Remember that beef should always be 
cut thin. 

Mutton and lamb about a quarter of an 
inch thick. 

Veal and pork a little less. 

FISH.— Fried fish should be divided into 
suitable slices before brought to table. 

SALMON.— Serve a slice of the thick 
with a smaller slice of the thin part. 
Keep the flakes of the thick part as un- 
broken as possible. 

COD AND HALIBUT.— Strike the 
fish, slice along the back bone which runs 
from head to tail, and then serve square 
slices from the thick part. 

MACKEREL should be served in pieces 
cut through the side, when they are large. 
If small, divide through the back-bone, 
and serve in halves. The shoulder part is 
considered the best. 

BEEF. ROUND AND AITCHBONE. 
— Cut straight across in a horizontal di- 
rection. Keep it as level as possible. 

SIRLOIN AND RIBS.— Cut down side- 
wise the length of the bones, serving some 
slices off the underflap with the top ones. 
Loosen the meat off the bones before 
starting by slipping the point of the knife 
in and along. 

The undercut in the sirloin is a very 
favorite cut, so turn the joint carefully 
over, and cut slices from it straight down 
to the bone. 

rORTERHOUSE.— Detach the fillet 
from the bone; remove the bone from the 
sirloin part, then cut the meat into tho 
desired sizes, taking care that each one 
receives a piece of fillet and one of sir- 
loin. 

BRISKET OF BEEF.— Cut off the out- 
side and servo long slices cut the whole 
length of the bones. 

TENDERLOIN OF BEEF.— A tender- 
loin or fillet of beef should be placed 
lengthwise on the dish and sliced per- 
pendicularly, taking care not to have the 
slices too thick. 



MUTTON. — LEG OF MUTTON.— 
Hold the thick end firmly with the fork 
and cut slices through down to the bone. 

Si'iGJl^DER.— Make a cross incision on 
the fore-part of the shoulder, and serve 
slices from both sides of the incision. 
Then cut slices lengthwise along the 
shoulder blade. Cut slices of fat from the 
round corner. There are some good slices 
to be cut from underneath. 

LOIN. — Cut down between the bones 
into chops. Have the cook joint it be- 
fore it is sent to table. 

SADDLE.— Draw the blade of the knife 
from one end of the back-bone to the other, 
cutting through the flesh. Loosen the 
meat or the fillet, from both sides of the 
back-bone. Divide each fillet into two or 
three parts, and cut each of the latter into 
strips about one-fourth of an inch in thick- 
ness. 

FORE-QUARTER OF LAMB.— Lay 
the knife flat and cut off the shoulder. 
The proper point for incision will be seen 
by the position of the shoulder. Next sep- 
arate the short bones by cutting lengthwise 
along the breast, and serve from either 
part as desired. 

VEAL— LOIN.— Cut across the thick 
part, or slices may be taken in the direc- 
tion of the bones. Serve a piece of kid- 
ney and of fat with each plate. 

Breast. — Divide by cutting the brisket 
or soft bones the same as the brisket of 
lamb. 

Fillet.- Is carved as a round of beef. 
Calves' heads are carved across the 
cheeks and pieces taken from any part. 
The tongue and brain are to be served at 
the same time. 

PORK.— Leg.— Carved like mutton. But 
it is easier to first lift off the crackling 
and to cut a strip from it with each help- 
ing. It is awkward to cut through it and 
ruins the knife. 

Loin. — Is carved the same as a loin of 
mutton. 

Spare-ribs. — Separate the chops, which 
have been previously jointed. Cut as far 
as the joint, then return the knife to the 
point of the bones and press over to dis- 
close the joint, which separate with the 
point of the knife. 

Ham.— A ham is to be carved the samo 
as a leg of mutton. Cut the ham in two 
by drawing the edge of the knife from the 
top to the bottom\_of the bone, which can 
now be easily removed, and the ham cut 
into very thin perpendicular slices. 

CHICKEN.— Fix the fork firmly into 
the breast, then slip the knife under the 
legs, and disjoint; do the same on both 
sides. Detach the wings in the same 
manner. Find the joints carefully before 
beginning to cut. The wings and breast 
slices are the best. When the wishing- 



SOME DOGS HUNT BY SIGHT, OTHERS BY SMELL. 



49 



bone has been removed by dipping the 
knife through at the point of the breast, 
turn the carcass over and divide it by 
thrusting the knife through the back-bone. 

DUCK. — Slices from the breast and 
legs are the best cuts. Carve the same as 
a. goose or chicken. 

DUCKLINGS.— Are usually cut into 
four pieces lengthwise and then across. 
One piece constitutes one helping. 

CANVASBACK AND WILD DUCKS. 
— Only the breast is served by many. This 
is sliced after removing the wings. 

TEAL AND WIDGEON are treated 
the same as wild duck. 

GOOSE.— Turn the breast of the goose 
towards the carver and cut the meat on 
both sides of it into lengthwise slices. De- 
tach the leg the same as a turkey. Help 
the stuffing by cutting through the skin, 
or "apron," just above the tail. 

TURKEY.- Stick the fork into the 
wing, run the knife close to the body and 
through the joint of the wing, removing it 
from the carcass. Remove the leg from 
the body, and cut slices from each side of 
the breast down to the ribs. Divide the 
joints of the legs. The thighs, the pinions 
and the breast ai:e the best pieces, the 
drum-sticks generally being tough. 

PARTRIDGES.— Detach the legs and 
slice each breast lengthwise to the bone 
into three or four parts. Then run the 
knife along the breastbone, detaching the 
meat from the carcass. When small cut 
through lengthwise and serve one half for 
each helping. 

PHEASANTS.— Carve like a chicken. 
The slices from the breast are the prime 
cuts. 

QUAIL, WOODCOCK, SQUABS, Etc. 
are generally served whole, but they may 
be cut straight through in half. 

Be careful when any game is sent to 
table on toast that a small division is 
served with each portion of the bird. 

CHEESE.— Cheese being so low in 
price should be a treasure to a poor man 
in replacing the more expensive meat. 
One pound of cheese is equal in food value 
to more than two pounds of meat. It 's 
usually eaten uncooked, but can be uti- 
lized in a great variety of dishes of cooked 
food. If eaten in moderation it is as well 
digested as meat or eggs. American 
cheeses have a sharper flavor than foreign. 
A large quantity of English-named 
cheeses are now being made in this coun- 
try, and many, in fact, are being exported 
to England and sold in competition with 
the English cheeses. 

BRIE CHEESE comes from a town 
near Paris, France, whose name it bears. 
It is made from new cow's milk. Very lit- 
tle of it is now imported from France. 



One gallon of rich milk makes a large 
cheese. 

CAMEMBERT CHEESE.— A small, 
round cheese, covered with a blue mould on 
top of a white one. Made chiefly in Cal- 
vados, Normandy. Temperature and hu- 
midity are the important necessities for the 
manufacture of this cheese. 

CHEDDAR CHEESE.— The best come 
from Somerset, England, and the west of 
Scotland. It is a pale yellow and nutty in 
flavor. Also made in the cheese-making 
districts of America, Canada and Aus- 
tralia. 

GORGONZOLA CHEESE.— Made in 
Italy. It somewhat resembles the Stilton, 
but not in shape. It should be firm, 
creamy, with two flat, level surfaces; the 
inferior ones sink in the centre. 

GRUYERB OR SWISS CHEESE.— 
The best are imported from Friebourg. It 
is a large, round, flat cheese, and cuts firm, 
with large holes. Has a nutty flavor, the 
same as Cheddar. 

NEUPCHATEL CHEESE.— The small- 
est cheese imported; known also as Bon- 
don. It is dry and salty, but the real Neuf- 
chatel, from France, is rich, well flavored 
and blue veined. 

PARMESAN CHEESE.— From Parma, 
ir. the north of Italy. A very large cheese, 
generally weighing about a hundred and 
eighty pounds. Used principally for culi- 
nary purposes. 

PONT L'EVEQUE CHEESE.— Named 
after the place where it is manufactured. 
A cheese very inferior to Brie. 

ROQUEFORT CHEESE.— Made of 
ewes' milk, which gives it a peculiar pun- 
gency. The mould is procured by intro- 
ducing mouldy bread crumbs, and byj 
pricking to admit the air. 

STILTON CHEESE.— Named after a 
town in Huntingdon, England, but manu- 
factured near Melton-Mowbray. It is the 
king of English cheeses. When cut the 
cheese should be white, friable, mellow and 
marked with greenish-blue veins. 

CHOCOLATE.— Chocolate is an excel- 
lent food, containing plenty of nourish- 
ment, although as a drink it is considered 
i-ather heavy. As the various kinds differ 
very much from each other they are best 
prepared according to the recipes found on 
the packages. 

Invalids should only take it after they 
have changed the absolute diet for a mod- 
erate diet. 

COFFEE— HOW TO MAKE IT.— To 
obtain good coffee, the berries must be 
freshly ground the last thing before the 
water is poured on them. Cheap coffee 1^ 
the dearest, as it takes more to make it 
with and the result is always unsatisfac- 
tory. For ordinary household use Java 



50 



EABBITS DO NOT BURROW IN HOT CLIMATES. 



and Mocha will be found very good. There 
is no better coffee pot than the French one, 
and this must be kept scrupulously clean 
and free of stale coffee grounds. Make 
the pot quite hot before the freshly-ground 
coffee is put into it. A liberal quantity 
should be allowed and should be pressed 
down with the upper strainer, and the 
water, actually boiling, poured very gently 
over the top, so that it does not drop down 
into the coffee pot until the essence of the 
coffee has been extracted. While the cof- 
fee is filtering through keep the pot in a 
pan or basin of boiling water so that it re- 
tains its heat without destroying the 
aroma, which would be the case if it were 
placed on the hot fire. 

Coffee and milk should be poured into 
the cup at the same time, for so doing 
causes them to amalgamate in a way that 
is impossible if the coffee was poured in 
first and the milk afterwards. 

Always have the milk boiling, as merely 
hot milk fails to bring out the full flavor of 
the coffee. 

ESSENCE OP COFFEE.— Four ounces 
of coffee, two ounces of chicory, one 
ounce of burnt sugar (caramel). Make the 
coffee with boiling water and gently and 
quickly reduce it to a third or a quarter of 
its bulk, add a thick liquid extract of the 
chicory and the sugar, and evaporate till 
it becomes of a treacly consistence. 

MAZAGRAN.— Make the coffee the 
same as black coffee, and when cold pour 
it into glasses filled with cracked ice, add a 
pony of cognac to each glass; mix well 
with a spoon, sweeten if liked and serve. 

TO MAKE TEA.— To make tea prop- 
erly, first scald the pot, drain it well, and 
while it is still hot put in one teaspoonful 
of tea for each half pint of water; pour the 
water over at the first boil; cover for five 
minutes and then use. Always allow one 
teaspoonful of tea for each person and one 
for the pot. Never make tea in a metal 
teapot. Remember that the better the 
quality of the tea the longer it should 
brew. Cheap teas draw very quickly. 

TIME FOR DRAWING VARIOUS 
TEAS. — Green tea, five minutes; Oolong 
tea, eight minutes; English breakfast tea, 
fifteen minutes. 

Tea should draw long enough to bring 
out the essential oil which gives it its 
aroma, but not long enough to dissolve the 
tannin, which gives an acrid, disagreeable 
taste. 

No tea should be boiled. The teapot 
should be heated, and the tea not made 
with water that has been long standing on 
the stove. 

RUSSIAN TEA is generally served in 
glasses and flavored by adding some thin 
slices of fresh lemon and a lump of sugar 
with each glass. The tea should be of 
good quality and not strongly brewed. 



WINES, ETC. 

DRINKS AND COCKTAILS.— These 
can invariably be made at home with a lit- 
tle attention and care. Nearly all of them 
require to be first mixed in a large glass, 
then strained into a serving glass and 
drank while still very cold; others, such as 
milk punch, etc., are not strained, only- 
shaken. 

A metal shaker is necessary to have. 

A dash means about ten drops. 

Never stir drinks and cocktails too long, 
the water from the ice melting will weaken 
the liquor. 

A pony is a small glass. 

ABSINTHE COCKTAIL. — Three 
quarters of a wineglass of absinthe, four 
dashes gum syrup, one dash bitters, one 
dash aniseed, a third of a wineglass of 
water poured on by drops; fill the glass 
with shaved ice, stir thoroughly, strain into 
a cocktail glass and add lemon peel. 

MANHATTAN COCKTAIL.— A pony 
and a half of whiskey, a pony of vermuth, 
cracked ice, three dashes of bitters, three 
dashes gum syrup, stir, strain, squeeze in 
a bit of lemon peel, and twist a piece on 
the edge of the glass. 

A preserved cherry or strawberry adds 
to the flavor. Some like a small olive 
instead. 

SODA COCKTAIL.— This is not sha- 
ken nor strained. One teaspoonful of 
sugar, three dashes of bitters, a few innips 
of ice, a slice of orange, and a bottle of 
plain soda. Drink at once. 

WHISKEY COCKTAIL.— One wine- 
glass of whiskey, cracked ice, two dashes 
of bitters, three dashes gum syrup, stir, 
strain, add the juice of a bit of lemou peel, 
and twist a piece on the edge of the glass. 

A cherry may also be added. 

EGGNOG.— One tablespoonful pow- 
dered sugar, one of cold water, one egg, .a 
third of a glass of fine ice, a wiueglassful 
of brandy, a pony of rum; shake well, 
strain, grate nutmeg on top. 

GIN FIZZ.— Two teaspoonfuls of sugar, 
four dashes lemou juice, fill the glass half 
full of ice, add a wineglass of gin, shake, 
strain, and drink at once. 

GOLDEN GIN FIZZ.— Add the yolk of 
an egg before shaking. 

SILVER GIN FIZZ.— Add the white of 
an egg before shaking . 

POUSSE-CAFE.— In this the liquors 
lay in separate layers, and the heavy ones 
must be on the bottom to prevent them 
from mixing. Made with a quarter each 
of maraschino, curacao, chartreuse (green) 
and brandy on top. Set on fire before 
serving if liked. In compounding -the 
above it is well to use a small wineglass 
for pouring in each article separately, so 



HEEDS OF SEALS KEEP SENTINELS. 



51 



that every one may be separate. Serve 
.without mixing. 

SHERRY COBBLER.— Put into a 
large glass one tablespoouful of sugar, 
two or three slices of orange, fill glass 
with fine ice, then fill up with sherry. 
Shake well and dress the top tastily with 
fruit; serve with a straw. 

SHERRY FLIP.— Two teaspooufuls 
of sugar, one egg; fill the glass half full 
of cracked ice, add a glass and a half 
of sherry, shake well, strain, and grate 
nutmeg on top. 

BRANDY PUNCH.— Three teaspoon- 
fuls of fine sugar in just enough water to 
dissolve. One dash of rum, one dasii 
raspberry syrup, one and one-half glasses 
of brandy, juice of half a lemon; fill the 
glass with fine ice, trim with two slices 
of orange and a piece of pineapple. Sip 
with straws. 

CLARET PUNCH.— Fill a large goblet 
half full of ice, add a pony and a half of 
brandy, two teaspoonfuls powdered sugar, 
fill up with claret, shake well and trim 
with fruit. 

FRUIT PUNCH. — Put on to boil one 
pint of water, one pound of sugar and the 
chopped yellow rind (af a lemon; after it 
has boiled fife minutes, strain and while 
hot slice two bananas into it, Jiddiug one 
grated pineapple and a quarter of a pound 
of stoned cherries. When ready to serve 
add the juice of six lemons. Put a square 
block of ice in the centre of the punch 
bowl, pour over it two quarts of Apol- 
linaris or other mineral water, add the 
fruit mixture and at the last moment a 
dozen sliced strawberries. This is a deli- 
cious temperance panch, 

MILK PUNCH.— Three teaspoons of 
sugar, a third of a glass of broken ice. a 
wineglassful of rum, fill up with milk 
shake to a good fi'tth, squeeze in a bit ot 
lemcn, and grate nutmeg on top. 

GINGER BEER.— In a deep earthen- 
ware pan, slice four lemons, add a poun<l 
and a half of crushed loaf sugar, an ounce 
and a half of root ginger, slightly bruised, 
and over all pour two gallons of boi'ing 
water. When the water is nearly cold, 
stir in two teaspoanfnls &f fresh yeast, 
cover with a cloth and let tlie mixture 
stand for twenty-four hours. Have ready 
some clean and perfectly dry bottles and 
plenty of sound corks, and bottle the gin- 
ger beer at the expiration of the time 
named. Cork tightly, securing the corks 
with string. Do uot quite fill the bottles 
er they will be liable to burst. 

RASPBERRY CORDIAL. — Squeeze 
the fruit through a flannel bag and to 
every quart of juice add a pound of loaf 
sugar. Put it in a stone jar and stir con- 
stantly for half an hour; let stand for 



three daj's, then strain and to each quart 
of juice add a quart of fine brandy. 

KUMMEL. — To make tlis liqueur at 
home, .Add to a bottle of gin, one ounce of 
caraway seeds and half a pound of sugar 
candy. Keep tightly corked, and after 
two months strain it into a clean bottle, 
and it will be ready to use. 

HOT LEMONADE.— Pour the hot 
water over the lemon juice and sutrar, and 
have it perfectly free from rind or seeds. 
Boiling lemonade changes the properties 
of the acid it contains, and is very in- 
jurious to the stomach, often causing in- 
flammation. 

LEMONADE POWDERS.— To two 
pounds of powdered sugar, add one ounce 
of tartaric acid or citric ac'd, and twenty 
drops of essence of lemon. Mix well. 
Two or three teaspoonfuls in a glass of 
cold water makes a good extemporaneous 
lemonade, and is useful for picnics, camp- 
mg or wherever fresh lemons are not to be 
obtained. Keep it dry. By adding an 
ounce of soda to this quantity of powder, 
an effervescing drink is instantly made. 

ORANGE LIQUEUR.— Cut the peel 
very thinly off half a dozen bitter oranges, 
and put these in a gallon jar with two 
quarts of good brandy, add one pound of 
lump sugar and cork the jar. Pass the 
orange juice through a thick straining bag 
and add it to the peel. Shake the jar con- 
stantly tvvice a day, for three or four 
weeks. Then pass the liquor through mus- 
lin into a clean jar. Put three pounut, of 
sugar iuto a basin, pour over hale a pint of 
boiling water and stand it near the fire 
till Lhe sugar is dissolved. When cold add 
to the spirit in the jar, cork tightly, and 
shake the jar two or three ti.mes a day 
for five days, then bottle for storing. 
This liqueur should be kept at least seveu 
er eight months, the longer the belter. 
The peel can be saved and dried for flavor- 
ing cakes, etc. 

GUM SYRUP. — Four ounces of very 
white gum arable, one pound of y-igar 
and a pint of water. Soak the y"i i in 
water for twenty-four hours, and pc;i:- the 
(dissolved mixture into .i pan; add the 
sugar, and the white of an egg beaten 
up with a glassful of water. Heat sir wly 
till the sugar is entirely melted, then 
boil quicker; skim off the top as faft as 
the scum appears and when only Inilibles 
appear produced by the boiling, then strain 
the syrup into a vessel. Flavor it with 
cne ounce tf orange flower water added 
when it has partly cooled off, 

BLACKBERRY W INE.— Measure and 
bruise the berries, then to every gallon 
add one quart of boiling water. Let stand 
for twenty-four hours stirring occasionally, 
then strain the liquor off into a cask. To 
every gallon add two pounds of sugar. 



52 



THE SOXG OP FREE BIRDS IS SUPERIOR TO THOSE IN" CAGES. 



Cork up li'^htly and let it rcnain in tin 
cellar one yera- before using. Tnis mo.kes 
a capital wine. 

CURRANT WINE.— Press the jaice 
from the currants and to tvery quart of 
this, add four pounds of sugar and three 
quarts of water. Filter the water throuph 
tie currant pulp as it adds much to its 
strength. Put in a keg nust 1 enoush 

to have it filled, and after it has done 
working, buug it up tight. Let it remain 
six months, then draw off and bottk. 

MULLED WINE.— Put one pint of 
pert wine iuio a very bright clean pan with 
three cloves and half an inch of cinnamon 
stick. If desired, add to the port rather 
more than a quarter of water; boil all 
these for three minutes; now take out th.e 
spices, sweeten and add grated nutmeg to 
taste. Serve very hot and have handed 
with it delicate finger-llKe sippets of dry 
toast. 

Proceed the same as with claret or any 
other kind of wine. 

TO REMOVE CHAMPAGNE CORKS. 
— Remove the wires, place a napkin over 
the cork and take it out carefully with the 
fingers; this will prevent the contents from 
flowing over. 

DECANTED WINES.— Port, sherry 
and Madeira are decanted. Hock and 
champagne are poured from their original 
bottles. Claret is handed round in a 
claret jug. Burgundy is poured from its 
bottle reclining in a special basket so that 
the wine is not disturbed. 

GLASSES FOR SERVING WINES. 

Bordeaux — White glasses, about five and 
a half inches high, including the stem. 

Burgundy — In Bordeaux glasses, or a 
trifle smaller. 

Champagne — White champagne glasses. 

Madeira — White glasses, a little smaller 
than Bordeaux. 

Hock or White Hungarian — Medium- 
sized goblets. 

Port Wine— Small white glasses contain- 



ing twice as much as an ordinary sherry 
glass. 

Dry Sauterne, Moselle or Rhine Wines 
— In medium-sized, fancy colored glasses. 

Dry Sherry — Small inverted cone 
shaped glasses. 

Sweet Sherry — Glasses a size or two 
larger. 

Tokay, Malaga, Muscatel and Angelica 
— Small white glasses. 

Cordials — In liqueur glasses. 

TEMPERATURES FOR SERVING 
WINES. — The following table is a guide 
for serving wines at various temperatures, 
which can be modified to suit individual 
tastes: 

Burgundy, red, 70 deg. F. 

Burgundy, white, 45 (leg. F. 

Champagne, 35 deg. F. 

Claret, 65 deg. F. 

Madeira, 65 deg. F. 

Port, 56 deg. F. 

Rhine or Moselle, 45 deg. F. 

Sauterne and White Clarets, 56 deg. F. 

Sherry, 40 deg. F. 

Ale, bottled, 60 deg. F. 

Beer, bottled, 40 deg. F. 

Never put ice in the wineglass. 

Claret is spoiled by being chilled. 

Champagne is the only wine to be drunk 
ice cold. 

Beer is better very cold. 

Ale should not be as cold as beer. 

WINE CELLAR.— Be careful that the 
cellar is not exposed to a continual sha- 
king caused by vehicles overhead, for theso 
shocks are liable to cause the lighter part 
of the dregs to ascend and this will fre- 
quently sour the wine. 

Wine will not keep if placed near a 
wood-pile of fresh, green wood or a store- 
room of fruits, nor near a place where con-« 
tinual fermentation is taking place. 

The wine cellar must be kept scrupu- 
lously clean. Remove all the drippings 
from the air-holes, and be careful not to 
have any onions, cabbage or other vegeta- 
bles in close contact with the wine. 



SPARROWS HAVE THREE BROODS IIST A YEAR. 



Household 



53 



TO CLEAN ALABASTER. — Use 
stroug soap and water. If too much dis- 
colored, make a paste of quicklime and 
water, cover the article well with it and 
leave it on all day. Wash off with soap 
and water, rubbing the stains hard. 

TO MEND AMBER.— Smear the parts 
to be united with linseed oil, and hold the 
oiled part carefully over a gas-light or 
small charcoal fire, carefully covering all 
the rest of the object loosely with paper. 
When the parts begin to warm, so as to 
feel sticky, press them together and hold 
them so till nearly cold. Only heat the 
edges that are to be united and repolish 
slightly. 

TO DESTROY ANTS AND INSECTS. 
— Dissolve a pound of alum in three pints 
of hot water and while hot apply with a, 
brush in all crevices where vermin harbor. 

To free closets of red ants, keep a small 
I)ag of sulphur on the shelves or strew 
cayenne pepper in the crevices. 

The shelves may be sprinkled with pow- 
dered borax mixed with a little sugar; this 
also serves to keep roaches away. 

TO DESTROY RED ANTS.— Place 
bits of the bark of hickory or sweet wal- 
nut wherever they haunt and they will 
very soon disappear. They are averse to 
stroug scents. 

Camphor, or a sponge saturated with 
creosote, will prevent their infesting a cup- 
board. Tobacco water has been found 
effectual; red pepper strewn in their 
taunts will also drive them away. 

RENOVATE A BLACK BAG.— Mix a 
tablespoonful of gin with a tablespoonful 
of sugar and thicken this with ivory black. 
Next add the yolk of an egg, and beat all 
together. Lastly add the beaten white of 
«gg. Stir well together and use the mix- 
ture the same as a kid reviver, leaving it 
for twenty-four hours to harden. 

TO CLEAN WITH BARK SOAP.— 
Dip a small piece of black cloth in warm 
water, rub it well with the soap and then 
rub spots on dark clothing with it; sponge 
off the latter, and the . irt will have disap- 
peared. It is perfectly harmless, and will 
answer as well as benzine, besides being 
much less dangerous and disagreeable. 

TO ENAMEL A BATH TUB.— Clean 
tub thoroughly with soap and water, rinse 
and dry it well. Apply the enamel thinly 
and smoothly, working it well away with 
the brush to avoid its running into lines. 



Let it remain fully four hours before ap- 
plying another coat. It will require three 
of these to give a satisfactory result, and 
even then there will be places that require 
retouching. Keep a cup of turpentine 
near at hand to dip the brush in occasion- 
ally. In this way the enamel that may be 
too thick in one place can be spread. Do 
not use the bath till the enamel is quite 
hard, which will take three or four clear 
days. 

TO CLEAN AN ENAMELLED 
BATH.— Moisten one heaped tablespoon- 
ful of salt with turpentine and with it 
scour the bath. Then rub with a clean 
cloth. Have the bath perfectly dry be- 
fore beginning the operation. 

Whiting and ammonia mixed to a soft 
paste and well rubbed in removes all 
marks. Scour well afterwards. Benzine 
applied on a rag and well scoured will re- 
move stains, wash after with soap and 
water. 

TO BRIGHTEN COPPER, TIN- 
WARE AND ZINC BATH TUBS.— Use 
a hot solution of salt and vinegar. 

TO REMOVE GREASE FROM ZINO 
BATHS.— Saturate a flannel well with 
kerosene oil and rub briskly, afterwards 
washing with soda water. It will re- 
move dirt and grease from any zinc article, 
making it like new. 

BEDBUGS. — There are several cures 
for these pests, cleanliness being one of 
the first. Each housekeeper has her own 
pet theory for their annihilation, ani. what 
sometimes succeeds with one does not ^ith 
another. 

A solution of corrosive sublimate ap- 
plied with a brush is good. It is a strou:; 
poison. Spirits of naphtha, rubbed with a 
small painter's brush into every part of the 
bed. Salt is said by some to be effectual. 
Wash every part that is infested with salt 
and water and fill up all the cracks and 
crevices with salt; the bugs cannot abidw 
where it is. Turpentine is liked by some 
persons, while others mix it with naphtha 
and corrosive sublimate. 

It is said if a small bag of camphor is 
suspended just in the centre over the head 
of the bed the bugs will all disappear. 

Benzine applied daily through a small oil 
can will keep them away. 

WHERE BEDBUGS HARBOR.— Ex- 
amine well the mattress and its binding, as 
the bugs generally harbor more in these 



54 



THE SWAX LIVES 200 YEARS, THE PARROT 100. 



parts than in the bedstead. They are also 
fond of anything white, such as sheets, 
nightrobes, etc. 

BEDCLOTHES should be frequently 
exposed to fresh air. As soon as the bed 
is vacated the clothes should be removed 
and hung over chairs, and the windows 
thrown open top and bottom. On dry, 
sunny days, the beds may be put in the 
open air, and it is good to let the sun shine 
upon the beds and bedding daily whilst 
being aired. 

TO AIR A BED.— To air a bed that is 
not in constant use, place hot water bottles 
in it once or twice a week, or else make a 
fire in the room every week and place the 
mattress before it. 

TO KEEP HALF BOTTLES OF 
BEER FRESH.— Put in the cork and 
place the bottle, neck downwards, in a 
tumbler or other vessel of water. The 
beer will open as fresh the next day as 
when first uncorked. 

RECIPE FOR BLACKING.— A good 
mixture for blacking boots is made from 
four ounces of ivory black, three ounces 
coarse sugar, one tablespoonful of sweet 
oil and one pint of beer. 

TO CLEAN VENETIAN BLINDS.- 
Let the blinds down; secure the pulling up 
cord to its hook at the side and untie the 
knots at the bottom of the blinds. Slip 
out the thin laths one by one, being careful 
to leave the two cords hanging very 
straight. In this way remove the whole 
blind except the thick lath at the very bot- 
tom, which is kept in its place by the web- 
bing, and the top of the framework. The 
former can be removed by taking out the 
nails at the bottom of the laddering, but 
this is quite unnecessary, for it can easily 
be wiped and washed, as also the frame- 
work, without this trouble. The ladder- 
ing and cords to be wiped with a damp 
cloth. Put the laths singly on a table and 
wash with a soft brush and soap and wa- 
ter. Dry them thoroughly, and restore to 
their places one by one, re-thread the cord 
and knot firmly. If the laths are to be 
painted, be careful they are quite dry be- 
fore re-threading them. 

TO CLEAN BOTTLES.— Tear a wet 
newspaper into shreds and put them inside 
a bottle, shake well, fill with water and 
pour all out; this is quite as good as if 
cleaned with shot. After it has been 
washed, put in a twisted piece of tissue 
paper; this will absorb every particle of 
moisture and leave it as clear as crystal. 
Let one end of the paper protrude above 
the neck so that it can be withdrawn 
easily. 

TO CLEAN GLASS BOTTLES.— If 
oily or greasy do not wash with water, but 
wipe with a dry cloth, removing as much 



of the grease as possible, and by changing 
the cloth for a dryer one, the bottle can 
be perfectly cleansed. To facilitate the 
removal of grease, wash with a strong so- 
lution of an alkali, such as pearl ash. If 
soiled by resin, turpentine or varnish, wash 
with a strong alkaline solution, or if this 
fails to act, employ a little sulphuric acid; 
this removes tar and pitch from glass ves- 
sels. Nitric or sulphuric acids are good for 
cleaning flasks that have contained oil. 

TO BREAK A GLASS BOTTLE.— 
Soak a piece of string in turpentine and 
tie it around the neck or any other part of 
the bottle or jar that is required to be 
broken; set fire to the string and the glass 
will snap along the heated line. 

GLASS BOTTLES WHICH HAVE 
CONTAINED KEROSENE.— Wash with 
thin milk of lime, which forms an emul- 
sion with the petroleum and removes every 
trace of it. By washing a second time 
with milk of lime and a small quantity of 
chloride of lime, even the smell may be so 
completely removed as to render the bot- 
tle fit for keeping beer in. If the milk of 
lime bo used warm instead of cold, the 
operation will be much shorter. 

TO CLEAN GREASY BOTTLES.— 
Two ounces carbonate soda, one ounce 
borax, three ounces alcohol, seven ounces 
solution of ammonia, two ounces sulphuric 
ether, four ounces shaved castile soap, and 
one gallon water. Boil the soap in the 
water, then add the other ingredients. If 
the bottle has contained oil, throw in some 
warm coffee grounds, sjiake well, rinse 
with lukewarm water, then with cold. Re- 
peat if necessary. 

TO CLEAN STAINED WATER BOT- 
TLES. — Fill them with scraps of potato 
peel, a tablespoonful of ammonia and a lit- 
tle cold water. Shake the bottle, and when 
the stains have disappeared, empty out the 
contents and rinse with plain, clear water. 
Polish cut glass with a piece of soft flannel. 

TO LOOSEN GLASS STOPPERS IN 
BOTTLES. — Rub a drop or two of sweet 
oil around the stopfer close to the mouth 
of the bottle, then place it about half a 
yard away from the fire; the heat will 
cause the oil to drop between the neck and 
the stopper. When warm strike the stop- 
per gently on one side, then try it with the 
hand, and if it will not move, repeat the 
operation, then strike again. However 
tightly a stopper is in a bottle or decanter 
this will loosen it if persevered in. 

FOR CLEANING BRASS.— One ounce 
of softsoap, one ounce of rotten stone,_one 
ounce of ammonia, one pint of boiling 
water. Pour the water over and mix the 
ingredients thoroughly. Put a small quan- 
tity on a flannel and apply to the tarnished 
metal, polish with a soft chamois. Lemon 
juice will also be found excellent. 



THERE ARE FIFTY SPECIES OF OWL, 



55 



TO CLEAN EMBOSSED BRASS.— 

Make a good lather of soap and very hot 
water, and to each pint add a drachm of 
strong liquid ammonia, and wash the ar- 
ticle with a sponge or soft brush if neces- 
sary. Then wipe and polish with chamois. 
BRONZE ORNAMENTS.— Dip in very 
hot water, and have ready a flannel and a 
good, warm soap lather. Pass the flannel 
over quickly and polish at once with a 
soft, dry flannel. This removes grease 
and revives the colors. 

TO BATHE BROOMS.— Brooms and 
brushes will last longer if given an occa- 
sional bath. Put four tablespoonfuls of 
ammonia in two quarts of lukewarm water, 
stand the brushes in this for half an hour, 
bristles downward. Rinse thoroughly m 
cold water and hang in a cool place until 
dry. 

TO BUY BROOMS.— A heavy broom 
should always be selected in preference to 
a light one for thorough sweeping, as the 
weight aids in the process. 

In buying a broom test it by pressing 
the edge against the floor. If the straws 
bristle out and bend, the broom is a poor 
one, for they should remain in a firm, solid 
mass. 

THE CARE OF BROOMS.— A broom 
should have a loop of cord passed through 
a hole in the handle and hung on a nail on 
the wall. If stood on the floor it should 
always be Avith the handle end down. 
Brooms that are choked with dust, hair 
and threads cannot do effective service. 
Do not sweep from one side of the broom 
alone, it will wear uneven and shorten its 
life. Salt, while it brings out the color 
of carpets, gathers dampness. Carpet 
sweepers should be freed of dust and 
threads before being put away. A very 
little oil will stop the wheels from squeak- 
ing. 

A BROOM HOLDER.— Put two large 
nails or screws into the wall about two 
inches apart, drop the broom between 
them, the handle downward. 

TO CLEAN HAIR-BRUSHES.— To 
wash these use lukewarm water with a 
little soda or ammonia; shake the brushes 
lip and down in this, taking care that the 
backs and handles do not go into the water. 
When the brushes are clean, rinse them in 
cold water, then shake well and dry them 
in the air. 

TO CLEAN PAINT BRUSHES.— To 
soften paint brushes that have become 
hard, soak them for twenty-four hours in 
raw linseed oil and rinse them out in hot 
turpentine, repeating the process till clean, 
or Avash them in hot soda and water and 
softsoap. 

SCRUBBING BRUSHES. — When 
these are new, heat a skewer and make 
a hole in the back of the brush; pass a 



string through this, and always hang the 
brush up after using and shaking dry. 

TO TIGHTEN THE BRISTLES IN A 
TOOTH-BRUSH.— If care is taken when 
using a new brush the unpleasant sensa- 
tion of having the bristles come off in the 
mouth will be avoided. It should be at 
once set, when new, brush end down in a 
cup of water and left there for one hour, 
no more nor less. After this there will 
be no annoyance from this cause. 

VARNISH BRUSHES.— Should never 
be allowed to touch water as it not only 
injures the elasticity of the hair, but a 
resin is deposited in the hilt of the brush 
which can never be thoroughly removed 
and which will work out little by little 
when the brush is used, destroying the 
glossy surface which is needed. 

CANDLES. — Improve by keeping them 
some time, and if wax caudles become 
discolored or soiled, rub them over with a 
clean flannel slightly dipped in spirits of 
wine; this restores their color. In lighting 
candles always hold the match to the side 
of the wick and not over the top. 

TO CLEAN METAL OR CHINA 
CANDLESTICKS.— Pour boiling water 
over the grease spots — it will instantly 
disappear — then polish with dry cloths; 
a little ammonia in the water is a great 
help. 

TO CLEAN PLAYING CARDS.— Rub 
the soiled cards with a piece of new rough 
flannel and a very little butter, as if polish- 
ing, until the butter has cleaned away all 
the dirt, then wipe all the butter off with 
a clean soft rag. To restore the cards to 
their former gloss, rub the surface sharply 
with a piece of clean flannel and some 
flour. Neatly cut the edges of the cards 
with a pair of sharp scissors and the 
renovating operation will be finished. 

CANDLE GREASE FROM CARPET. 
— This can be removed by covering the 
spot with a piece of brown paper and 
pressing gently with a moderately hot iron. 
For any grease spot whatever, cover 
first with powdered chalk, then place on 
the paper and press as above, changing 
the paper if necessary, or make a gallon 
of hot soapsuds, add half an ounce of 
borax, and wash the carpet using a clean 
cloth. Rinse with clear water, and wipe 
dry. 

CARE OF CARPETS.— If a carpet is 
taken up and shaken often it will last 
much longer. It is the dirt that accumu- 
lates underneath that wears out the 
threads. 

TO CLEAN CARPETS.— If carpets 
are stained and are not to be taken up, 
clean them by making a lather of soap 
bark, using half a pound in a pail of clean 
water; then add a quarter of a pint of 



56 



CARRIER PIGEONS ARE LARGER THAN" THE COMMON PIGEON. 



ammonia. Scrub with a new scrubbing 
brush, and leave the windows open until 
the carpet is thoroughly dry. 

Puller's earth is used for cleaning car- 
pets, and a weak solution of alum and 
water are good I'or reviving the colors. 

CARPETS TO CLEAN WITH OX- 
GALL. — Carpets of any size can be 
cleaned on the tioor with this process; the 
gall cannot possibly injure the most deli- 
cate colors. To remove any objectionable 
odor that may arise from the ox-gall, ob- 
tain it from a fresh killed bullock, and 
after cleaning, hang the carpet for a few 
hours in a current of fresh air; the smell 
will go off. Put a bag of very fresh 
bullock's gall into a pail containing two 
gallons of cold water with four ounces of 
pearl ash dissolved in it; mix well. Besides 
this, have two pails of cold water, a large 
sponge, two flannels and some dry cloths. 
Dip a brush in the mixture and scrub the 
carpet, a square yard at a time, as quick- 
ly as possible. Rinse, suck up the gall 
and dirt with the sponge, rinsing it in 
the cold water. Well dry with cloths be- 
fore beginning a second square. 

TO SWEEP A CARPET.— Before 
sweeping, sprinkle it with damp grass, cut 
into short lengths. It will make it 
sweeter and brighter than either salt or 
tea leaves. After sweeping, wipe it over 
with a cloth wrung out of ammonia and 
water. The right proportion is a table- 
spoonful of ammonia to a gallon of water. 
TO AIR CELLARS.— Air them at 
night, if possible. Close them at 9 in the 
morning, and they will be cool and dry the 
entire summer. Exceptions are to be 
made on windy days, as the rapid motion 
of the air does not allow of condensation. 
Keep the cellar perfectly clean and fresh. 
Frequent coats of kalsomine, with plenty 
of lime, are the greatest value in sum- 
mer. 

CEMENTS, now TO USE.— Take aa 
small quantity of the cement as possible 
and bring it in direct contact with the sur- 
faces to be united. 

Cements that are used in a fused state, 
as resin or shellac, will not adhere unless 
the parts to be joined are heated to the 
same heat as the cement. Less cement in 
a joint, the stronger it is. To unite broken 
substances with a thick cement is disad- 
vantageous, the object being to bring the 
surfaces as closely together as possible. 

If glue is employed, the surface should 
be made so warm that the melted glue is 
not chilled before adhesion. 

CEMENT FOR BROKEN CHINA.- 
To half a pint of milk put a sufficient 
quantity of vinegar in order to curdle it; 
separate the curd from the whey, and mix 
the whey with the whites of four esrgs. 
beating the whole well together. When 



mixed, add a little quicklime through a 
sieve until it acquires the consistency of a 
paste. With this cement broken vessels 
or cracks can be repaired; it dries quickly 
and resists the action of fire and water. 

CExMENT FOR MENDING CHINA, 

— Mix together equal parts of fine glue, 
white of egg and flour, and apply it to the 
edges of the article to be mended. Press 
them together, and when hard and dry, 
scrape off the superfluous cement. 

Another, — Mix enough plaster of Parisr 
with gum arable to make a thick paste. 
Apply with a brush to the broken edges, 
press firmly together and leave till dry. 

CEMENTS FOR CRACKS IN 
WOODS.— Dissolve one part of glue in 
sixteen parts of water, and when almost 
cool stir in a sufficient quantity of sawdust 
and prepared chalk. 

No. 2.— Make a paste of slacked lime, 
one part, and two parts of rye meal, with 
a sufficient quantity of linseed oil. 

No. 3.— Oil varnish thickened with a 
mixture of equal parts of white lead, red 
lead, litharge and chalk. 

Gi-.EATER CEMENT.— This cement 
is transparent, and will unite broken glass 
and china so firmly that the fracture can 
scarcely be seen. Melt a little isinglass in 
spirits of wine, add to it one-fifth its bulk 
of water and heat gently. Mix thor- 
oughly. 

CEMENT FOR IRON AND STONE. 

— Glycerine and litharge to be stirred to- 
gether in sufficient quantities to make a 
thick paste while still damp. This makes 
a durable cement for iron upon iron, for 
two stone surfaces, or for fastening irou 
onto stone. 

TO CEMENT IVORY.— Dissolve one 

part of isinglass and two of white glue in 
thirty of water; strain and evaporate to 
six parts; then add one-thirtieth part of 
gum mastic dissolved in half part of alco- 
hol and add one part of zinc white. When 
required for use warm and shake well. 
The broken edges to be joined must also 
be warmed. This is the same color as the 
ivory. 

CEMENT FOR JET.— Shellac is used 
by jewellers. Make the broken edgea 
warm before applying the shellac. By 
smoking the shellac before putting it on, it 
will be rendered the same color as the jet, 
and will thus hide any joins. Another 
way is to make a glue of gum arable and 
in it place pieces of garlic; when these 
have steeped well, use the gum. 

LEATHER CEMENT.— Dissolve gut- 
ta-percha in bisulphide of carbon un*^il it 
is the thickness of treacle. The two parts 
of leather to be joined must be wll 
thinned; spread a small quantity of the 
cement over the edges so as to fill the 



THE RAVEN" LIVES THROUGH THE ARCTIC WINTER. 



57 



pores of the leather, warm both parts 
over the fire for half a minute, join them 
and hammer well. The cement should al- 
ways be kept in a tightly-corked bottle in 
a cool place. 

LOCAL CEMENT.— Boil a piece of 
hard cheese three times in water, each 
time allowing the water to evaporate. 
Take the paste thus left and thoroughly 
incorporate with dry quicklime. It will 
effectually mend glass, wood, china, etc. 

CEMENT FOR MAHOGANY FUR- 
NITURE. — A cement or lute for stopping 
up holes in mahogany furniture can be 
made by melting four ounces of beeswax 
and one ounce of Indian red with enough 
yellow ochre to produce the desired tint. 
Melted shellac, colored as above, makes 
also a very hard cement for this purpose. 

MEERSCHAUM CEMENT. — Crush 
some garhc to form a kind of dough, rub 
it over the broken pieces of meerschaum 
and reunite them by drawing very closely; 
bind them with iron wire according to the 
streugth of the pieces, then boil for half 
an hour in a sufficient quantity of milk. 
Or, use quicklime mixed to a thick cream 
with the white of an egg. These cements 
will also unite glass or china. 

MILK CEMENT.— This is the simplest 
and best cement for repairing china and 
crockery. Tie the parts firmly together 
with tape, and pass a pencil or stout 
skewer in between it and the article, the 
same as a tourniquet; this will keep them 
together. Place it in a pan of cold milk; 
gradually heat it to the boiling point. 
Keep it at this temperature from forty to 
sixty minutes, being careful it does not 
burn. Allow the article to cool in the 
milk, take out, wipe dry, and leave for a 
day or two till the cement has become 
quite hard, then wash off with warm wa- 
ter, and the parts will be strongly ce- 
mented. 

SHELL CEMENT.— This is used for 
mending shells and other specimens of 
natural history. It is composed of five 
parts of gum arable and two of sugar 
candy, with white lead enough to color, 
dissolved in warm water. 

CEMENT FOR WOOD.— This will be 
as hard as stone when dry and will ad- 
here firmly to wood. Melt one ounce of 
resin and one ounce of pure yellow wax in 
an iron pan and thoroughly stir in one 
ounce of Venetian red until a perfect mix- 
ture is formed. Use while hot. 

For cracks in wood, one part slaked 
lime, two parts rye meal, made into a 
paste with sufiBcient quantity of linseed 
oil. 

Or, one part of glue dissolved in sixteen 
parts of water, and when almost cold stir 
in enough sawdust and prepared chalk to 
make the right consistence. 



TO CLEAN CANE CHAIRS.— Cane 

seats of chairs should be well washed with 
hot water and a sponge, using soap if very 
dirty. Let it dry in the open air or in a 
thorough draught, and the cane will be- 
come as firm and tight as when new. 

TO MEND A CANE-BOTTOMED 

CHAIR. — Procure a ball of strong twine 
and some varnish. Cut off all the old, 
broken cane; thread a large carpet needle 
with the twine, make a knot at the end, 
and pass the string through the holes in 
the chair, backward and forward, crossing 
over from one side to the other, and filling 
every hole from right to left, then working 
back again, weaving the same as a darn, 
in and out. Varnish the twine over and 
let dry. Cover the seats with small cush- 
ions and tie these on with ribbons. 

LEATHER-COVERED CHAIRS. -: 
When the leather becomes dull and 
shabby, its appearance may be greatly 
improved by being brushed over with the 
white of an egg, the same as for leather 
trunks. 

CHALK FOR CLEANING. — All 
chalks are excellent for cleaning purposes, 
such as grease spots, wall paper spots, 
food spots, such as molasses, and many 
others. Chalk pencil, drop chalk, tooth 
powder chalk, French chalk, can all be 
used. It removes dirt entirely, even hav- 
ing effect on wash goods. Rub on the 
chalk, put the garment away, and when 
ready to use again merely brush it off and 
the spot will have disappeared. 

TO CLEAN A SOILED CHAMOIS 
LEATHER.— Make a weak solution of 
soda and warm water, rub plenty of soft 
soap into the leather and allow it to re- 
main in soak for two hours, then rub it 
well until it is quite clean. Afterwards 
rinse in a weak solution of warm water, 
soda and yellow soap. If rinsed in water 
only it becomes hard when dry and unfit 
for use. The small quantity of soap left 
in the leather allows the finer particles to 
separate and become soft like silk. After 
rinsing wring it well in a rough towel and 
dry quickly. Then pull it about and 
brush it well and it will become softer and 
better than most new leathers. 

TO USE A CHAMOIS.— Never use a 
dry chamois skin for rubbing polished 
wood, for, no matter how soft it may be, 
it is a material that collects and retamsi 
the dust. . , , 

For Eyeglasses. — Glasses which are al- 
ways wiped with a chamois skin wiper 
will soon be hopelessly scratched. 

For Windows and Looking-Glasses. — 
For polishing windows and looking-glasses 
a chamois skin dipped in cold water and 
wrung out almost dry is invaluable. The 
secret lies in having it neither too wet nor 
too dry. 



58 A SWALLOW CAN FLY A MILE A MINUTE FOR 10 HOUES A DAY. 



TO CLEAN GAS CHANDELIERS.— 
Yery few of these are gilt; they are bur- 
nished and lacquered with yellow lacquer. 
For either one or the other, talie the chau- 
delier to pieces and boil in strong soda lye 
for a few minutes, brush over with a soft 
brush, pass it through a strong solution of 
cyanide of potassium (a deadly poison), 
wash through a tubful of boiling water, 
dry in clean sawdust, wipe bright with a 
chamois and re-lacquer. 

CHARCOAL makes a much hotter fire 
than wood, for it is nearly pure carbon, 
and wood contains other less combustible 
elements. The purer the carbon the more 
intense is the glowing heat it creates. 

CHEESECLOTH AND ITS USES.— 
Useful for cleaning silver, for polishing 
windows and mirrors, for cleaning and 
rubbing brasses and bronzes, for drying 
and polishing all kinds of glassware, for 
dust cloths, for strainers in cooking, for 
dish towels, for scrub cloths and for 
bread cloths. 

CHINA that has become stained may 
be cleaned by rubbing with salt, ashes or 
bath-brick. 

TO MEND CHINA. — Make a very 
thick solution of gum arable and water; 
stir into it plaster of paris until it be- 
comes of a proper consistency. Apply it 
with a brush to the fractured edges of the 
china and stick them together. In three 
days it caunot be broken in the same 
place. 

TO MEND FINE CHINA.— Take a 
tube of white oil paint, squeeze it out and 
mend the articles as soon as possible after 
they are broken. Paint the edges of the 
break with the white oil paint and press 
them securely together. Put the article 
away carefully for at least six weeks 
when it is said neither moisture, heat nor 
cold will affect the cement. Carefully 
scrape off all excess of paint. 

DUSTING CLOTHS must be washed 
often or they will carry more dirt in the 
rooms than they take out. 

TO WASH PUDDING, JELLY AND 
TAMMY CLOTHS.— Never wash these 
with soap and water. When done using, 
throw into clean hot water, and if plenty 
of time, scald them if greasy, with a small 
piece of borax in the water, then rinse 
carefully and hang up till quite dry. Fold 
neatly and put away. 

TO SAVE COALS.— Soak waste paper 
until it is thoroughly wet, squeeze and roll 
in balls, then put them on top of the fire. 
This gives out great heat and gets rid of 
untidy pieces of paper. 

ROACHES AND BEETLES.— A prep- 
aration of borax and sugar scattered upon 
papers and laid on the floor will rid an in- 
fested kitchen of roaches and beetles in a 



wonderfully short time. The various foods 
purchased in the stores are good extermi- 
nators of these pests. They should be 
driven away before they are too numerous. 

ROACHES AND WATER BUGS are 
apt to infest the bathroom. Scatter plain 
borax on the floor and in the crevices of 
the wall. This will exterminate them. 

TO CLEAN COINS.— These can be 
cleansed by immersion in strong nitric 
acid and washing immediately in water. 
If very dirty, or corroded with verdigris, 
rub them with the following: Half ounce 
of pure bichromate of potash, one ounce 
sulphuric acid, and one ounce of nitriq 
acid. Rub over, wash with water, wipe 
dry and polish with rotten stone or chalk. 

CLEANING COMBS.— Combs should 
not be washed, but can be thoroughly 
cleaned with a strong thread. 

TO CLEAN COPPER KETTLES.— 
Rub first with fine sand, then with am- 
monia and last Avith bath-brick and sweet 
oil mixed to a paste. Polish with a' 
chamois leather. 

TO CLEAN INSIDES OF COPPER 
PANS. — Boil up with soda water, rinse 
out and well scour with silver sand and 
soap. Should a speck of verdigris, looking 
like a small green patch, be discovered on 
a well-tinned pan, no harm will result if 
removed at once with a little household 
ammonia and then wtU rinsed out. If it is 
found on an old vessel do not use it till re- 
tinned. 

TO CLEAN COPPER VESSELS.— 
Use soft soap and rotten stone made into a 
stiff paste with water and dissolved by 
gently simmering in a water bath. Rub 
on with a woolen rag and polish with dry 
whiting and rotfen stone. Finish with a 
chamois and dry whiting. 

COPPER VESSELS. — The outsides 
may be effectively cleaned by rubbing 
them with half a lemon dipped in salt. 
They should then be rinsed in pure watai* 
and afterwards polished with a soft cloth. 
The disused halves of lemons dipped in sil- 
ver sand and rubbed well on, then well 
rinsed in soap and water, brightens them. 
Or a rag dipped in vinegar, salt and sand. 

CORKS TO FIT BOTTLES.— If a 
cork is too large for the mouth of the bot- 
tle for which it is intended, soak it in 
boiling water for a short time, and it will 
soften so that it can be easily pressed into 
the bottle. 

TO FILL CRACKS IN PLASTER.— 
Mix plaster of paris with vinegar instead 
of water to form a mass like putty. Push 
if- into the cracks and smooth off with a 
knife. The vinegar prevents the plaster 
from hardening at once, while if water is 
used it becomes hard before the work ia 
completely finished. 



THE BLACK OSTKICH STANDS SEVEN" EEET HIGH. 



59 



TO CLEAN SILK CURTAINS.— 

These may be made to look as good as 
new by washiug them In a liquid com- 
posed of half-pint of gin, four ounces of 
soft soap, two ounces of strained honey, 
well mixed. Spread the silk out on a 
table and apply the mixture with a sponge, 
rubbing thoroughly, then wash in soft 
water, into which put two tablespoonfuls 
of ox-gall to three gallons of water. Rinse 
the silk, but do not wring it; hang it out 
smooth to dry and iron when damp. 

DISH COVERS. — Rub the outsidi 
with a rag dipped in kerosene, then rub 
over with the same piece dipped in a little 
powdered whiting. Polish with a soft 
cloth. This is good for all tins. 

TO MEND BROKEN DISHES.— If a 
dish or plate is merely cracked in halves 
and not shattered, get some white house 
paint and brush it over the bottom of the 
dish. Cut a piece of tape the length of 
the crack, lay it flat, paint one side of it 
and lay this over the crack; press the 
tape down smoothly. Do not use the dish 
for two or three weeks, when it will be 
found perfectly cemented and will never 
break in the same place again, 

TO WASH DISHES.— First, remove 
all the scraps of food, sauce, etc., that are 
on the plates and dishes, then wash them 
in very hot water, this should be added a 
little at a time, so as to keep it always at 
the same temperature, for greasy, sticky 
water will never answer the purpose. To 
have the dishes very clean and clear and 
bright when dry, rinse them in cold water. 
Use as little soda as possible, for unless 
the dishes are well rinsed some is apt to 
stick onto them. A white dish rag, or a 
mop made of white cords are the best to 
use, but either must be very clean and 
scalded every day. Fine china cups, sau- 
cers, dessert plates and glass should be 
washed in cold water. Do not wash the 
knives; either place the blades in a pitcher 
of boiling water or else wipe them on a 
wet cloth, then rub them with brick-dust 
on a knife-board. 

HOUSEHOLD DISINFECTANTS. 

BORAX alone, or in water, poured 
down closets and sinks will act as a puri- 
fier, and even renders impure water whole- 
some. It is excellent to use when sewer 
gas is suspected. 

CARBOLIC ACID in a fluid state is a 
strong disinfectant and a strong, irritant 
poison. 

CHLORIDE OF LIME, a substance 
knovN-n for its bleaching properties, is a 
useful disinfectant. It will neutralize foul 
smells if, when mixed with water, it is 
poured down the drain pipes. When 
scrubbing rooms dissolve a little in the 
pail of water and it will render them 
sweet and wholesome. 



I COFFEE, as a disinfectant, destroys 
vegetable and animal eflBuvia. Dry tne 
raw bean, powder it in a mortar, roast this 
on a slightly warm iron plate and use it 
when it assumes a dark brown tint. 
Sprinkle it about sinks, etc., or lay it on a 
plate in the room to be purified. It acta 
like a charm. 

CHARCOAL.— Mix charcoal with clear 
water. This can be thrown down sinks, 
etc. Keep a small cup or saucerful in the 
ice-box to absorb any tainted odor, and 
keep provisions sweet. 

PLASTER OF PARIS used with three 
times its quantity of charcoal will absorb 
bad odors. 

Dishes of cold water placed in a room 
and changed frequently will absorb im- 
pure gases. 

Formaldehyde is an excellent disin- 
fectant. 

FOR A DRAWER THAT STICKS.— 
Rub soap over the wood where there is 
most friction. If that fails, have a little 
of the wood planed off. 

TO CLEAN ENGRAVINGS.— Put the 
engraving on a smooth board, cover it 
thinly with finely-powdered common salt; 
squeeze lemon juice upon the salt so as to 
dissolve a considerable portion of it. Ele- 
vate one end of the board to form an angle 
of about forty-five degrees with the hori- 
zon. On the engraving pour boiling water 
from the teakettle until all the salt and 
lemon is well washed off. The engraving 
will then be perfectly clean and free from 
stains. Dry it gradually on the board or 
some smooth surface; if dried by the fire 
or sun it will be tinged with a yellow 
color. 

TO RENDER FABRICS UNIN- 
FLAMMABLE. — Many substances are 
known that will render the thinnest wear- 
ing fabrics uninflammable. Chloride of 
sulphate and phosphate of ammonium, 
alum and many salts have been tried, but 
the best is this: Mix neutral tungstate 
of sodium with three per cent, of phos- 
phate of sodium. These salts protect the 
fabric, and do not make them harsh. 
They are cheap, and do not act on the 
colors, and the solution keeps well. The 
solution should contain twenty per cent, of 
the mixed salts. 

TO CLEAN FEATHERS FOR BEDS, 
PILLOWS, ETC.— Prepare a quantity of 
lime water as follows: Mix well one 
pound of quicklime to each gallon of 
water required and let it stand until all 
the undissolved lime is precipitated, as a 
fine powder, to the bottom of the tub. 
Then pour off the clear liquor for use. The 
number of gallons will depend on the 
quantity of feathers to be cleaned. Put 
the feathers into a clean tub, pour the 
limewater over and stir till they all sink to 



60 



HUMMING BIRDS ARE PECULIAR TO AMERICA. 



the bottom. There should be sufficient 
limewater to cover to a depth of three 
inches. Let stand for three or four days, 
take them out, draio on a sieve, and after- 
wards well wash aud rinse in clean water, 
Dry on nets having a mesh about the size 
of a cabbage net, shake it occasionally, 
and the dry feathers will fall through. 
When all are well dried, beat well to rid 
them of any dust. It will take three 
weeks to dry a sufficient quantity for a 
bed. 

BLACK POLISH FOR FENDERS is 
made by stirrin? enough ivory black into 
shellac varnish to make a mixture as thick 
as paint. Apply this to the fender with a 
paint brush and leave to dry. This should 
only be used during the summer when 
there are no fires iu the grates. 

A CHEAP FILTER.— Take a com- 
mon flower pot, as large as possible, plug 
the hole with a piece of sponge, theu put in 
a layer of powdered charcoal about an 
inch thick, the same of silver saud, and a 
layer of small stones and coarse gravel 
about two inches in thickness. 

A CLEAR BROILING FIRE can be 
quickly had by sprinkling over a little 
powdered saltpetre. 

TO LIGHT A FIRE.— All fires are lit 
the same way. Empty out all the ashes, 
brush up the hearth or fender, then lay on 
the grate the paper iu soft folds, uot press- 
ing it down too tight; on this place the 
wood lightly so that the air can circulate 
between, and on top lay a few pieces of 
coal. Set fire to the paper, and when the 
wood is well ablaze put on more coal, and 
let burn up well, adding more coal as the 
other falls, and close the damper when the 
fire is well lit. 

IN CASE OF FIRE.— Although it re- 
quires nerve, still the best way to act in 
case a lamp is blazing ceiling high is to 
take hold of it aud throw it out the win- 
dow. If that is impossible or if the boil- 
ing oil has reached the table cover or car- 
pet, a shovelful of sand or common soil 
will generally do all that is necessary. 

Should a person's clothing be covered 
with oil and on fire, have him lie down and 
shovel some soil on his clothes, then the 
fire will go out instantly, whereas water 
would be more injurious than the fire. 

A bucket of sand kept in a closet in the 
room wherfe a kerosene lamp is burned is 
a good precaution and may check at the 
start what might become a most disas- 
trous fire. 

IN CASE OF FIRE.— Hold a damp 
cloth over the mouth and nose, or envelop 
the entire head, and one can pass through 
the most dense smoke without suffoca- 
tion. Quickly close all doors and win- 
dows to check the draught. The fire may 
thus be confined to a single room. 



FIRE IN CHIMNEYS.— Throw sul- 
phur on the fire and let its fumes ascend 
the chimney. No fire can live under this 
treatment, for, as sulphur fumes con- 
sume all oxygen, the fire will die out 
speedily. 

THE CARE OF FLATIRONS.— If a 

fiatiron is once allowed to become red hot 
it will never retain the heat so well again* 

If the irons are rough put some salt on 
a piece of brown paper, lay a piece of 
muslin over it, and rub the irons on it till 
they are bright and smooth. 

To prevent irons from sticking, put a 
little salt in raw or boiled starch; this will 
also make the starch whiter. 

To prevent them rusting when not in 
use put them away in a clean, dry place, 
aud should they do so, rub them thor- 
oughly with lard aud beeswax and then 
with sandpaper. 

TO DESTROY FLIES.— Cold, strong 
tea, much sweetened with sugar, if set in 
open vessels about a room, will collect and 
destroy flies. 

No. 2. TO DESTROY FLIES.— Haif 
a teaspoonful of black pepper, oue tea- 
spoonful of brown sugar, aud one table- 
spoonful of cream. Mix well, put on a 
plate, set it where the flies are trouble- 
some and they will soon disappear. 

TO KILL FLIES.— Put some quassia 
chips on a saucer or plate, pour hot water 
over and sweeten with sugar or molasses. 
Set it in the places;nnost troubled with flies 
and they will soon be killed. 

BEDROOM FLOORS can be kept cool 
and fresh by wiping them daily with fresh 
water. This also destroys any moths, in- 
sects or microbes. Try salt and camphor 
ia cold water as a disinfectant in bed- 
rooms. 

PREPARING A FLOOR FOR DANC- 
ING. — Have it washed clean and perfectly 
dried, and all rough surfaces planed away. 
A wax candle should then be shreddtd fine 
aud flung all over the floor, after which a 
heavy weight should be dragged over it on 
a bit of carpet till the wax is well rubbed 
in. Get all the members of the house- 
hold to dance or slide on it. It may also 
be rolled with glass rollers, but that is far 
more laborious. A well waxed floor will 
keep in condition for years, provided it is 
carefully covered with paper before the 
carpet is replaced, and washed with milk 
every time it is to be used again after- 
wards. 

TO SCRUB FLOORS.— A little tur- 
pentine added to the water used for scrub- 
bing floors will give a delightfully fresh 
smell to the room. 

FLOUR thrown upon burning oil will 
instantly extinguish it, while water only 
spreads the flames. 



THE GILLS OP EISHES AEE COMPOSED OP 4 PLATES ON EACH SIDE, 61 



FLOWER VASES.— When these are 
stained they should be washed with vin- 
egar mixed with very hot water, or am- 
monia may be used instead of the vinegar 
if liked. A lump of ammonia should be 
dissolved in the water. 

GILT PICTURE FRAMES.— If new 
gold frames are varnished it improves 
tbeir appearance, and fly-marks can then 
be washed off with a sponge. The frames 
also last many times longer. Gilt frames 
can be washed with a small sponge wetted 
with hot spirits of wine or oil of turpen- 
tine, the sponge only to be sufficiently wet 
to take on the dirt and fly-marks, then 
left to dry without wiping. Old ale acts 
at once upon fly-dirt. Apply it with a 
soft rag, using a brush for the carvings; 
wipe nearly dry and do not use any water. 
This leaves a thin coating of glutinous 
isinglass on the gilt, preventing the flies 
from fastening to the frame. 

TO CLEAN GILT FRAMES.— 
These are best restored to their original 
brightness by rubbing with half a fresh, 
juicy onion. An hour or two later sponge 
the frame with a little tepid rain water 
and dry immediately without rubbing by 
pressing a soft linen on until all the 
moisture is dry. 

No, 2.— TO CLEAN GILT FRAMES. 
— Albumen will remove most of the specks 
from gilt frames. Beat the white of an 
egg with about two tablespoonfuls of cold 
water; moisten one side of the frame with 
a soft brush; take a piece of soft silk and 
wipe it perfectly dry. Continue until the 
entire frame is cleaned. If the frames are 
very old, buy gilt in small bottles and re- 
gild them. 

A gill of vinegar in a pint of cold water 
and applied with a soft brush, doing very 
little at a time, will also clean them. 

TO DESTROY FTJNGTTS.— To get rid 
of fungus in a cellar place some boxes of 
lime in it, and this will absorb the damp. 

FURNITURE CLEANING. — Use a 
clean flannel wrung out as dry as possible 
from warm soft water; the dampness of 
the cloth takes off any fly-specks and dust 
from the polished surface, and does no 
harm, if immediately rubbed dry. Then 
take equal parts of boiled linseed oil, tur- 
pentine and vinegar, and rub all parts of 
the furniture well, afterwards polishing 
with a dry, soft duster. 

The upholstered parts of the furniture 
should be thoroughly brushed and beaten 
before the polishing commences. 

TO CLEAN FURS.— Take equal parts 
of flour and salt (heated in an oven) and 
rub the fur thoroughly with it. Shake 
well to free it from the flour and salt. 

No. 2.— Lay the fur on a table and rub 
well with bran made moist with warm 
water. Rub until quite dry, afterwards 



rub in dry bran. The wet bran should be 
put on with flannel, the dry with a piece 
of lawn. 

No. 3. — Sprinkle every part with hot 
plaster of paris and brush well with a 
hard brush; beat with a cane, comb with 
wet comb and press carefully with a 
warm iron; when dry shake out all the 
loose plaster. 

TO CLEAN GREBE FUR.— Carefully 
take out the lining and wash with warm 
soap and water the same as for white 
feathers, but do not shake them until quite 
dry. Before remaking carefully repair 
any rents there may be in the skin. 

TO CLEAN WHITE FURS. — Rub 
ermine and minerva with a white soft 
flannel dipped in flour. Rub against the 
grain and continue until the fur is clean. 
Shake out and rub off the remaining flour 
with a clean flannel. Sable, mink, squir- 
rel, etc., are cleaned by rubbing with 
warm bran, then shake and brush till the 
fur is free of the bran. Lay the furs on a 
flat board or table, and, if possible, re- 
move the lining and stuffings. 

WHY GAS BLACKENS THE CEIL- 
ING.— The blacking of ceilings above 
gas-lights is not always due to poor gas; it 
is often because the gas-burners are worn 
out. They cost a trifling sum and should 
be often replaced by new ones. 

TO CLEAN DIRTY GLASS OF ALL 
KINDS. — This is useful for pendant drops 
of glass chandeliers, water bottles, globes, 
etc. Put a small quantity of spirits of 
salt (hydrochloric acid) into a basin of wa- 
ter, place the dirty articles in for a few 
minutes; the glass will then be found 
clean and require drying only. If globes 
are very dirty leave them in for a few mo- 
ments longer. 

Care must be taken not to drop the un- 
diluted acid on the clothes or hands. 

TO DRAW ON GLASS.— Grind lamp- 
black with gum-water and some common 
salt. Draw the design with a pen or hair 
pencil or use a crayon made for the pur- 
pose. 

TO CLEAN GLASS GLOBES either 
of lamps or chandeliers. — Put them to 
soak in warm soda water, then add to the 
water a few drops of ammonia, and wash 
the globes with a well soaped brush. 
Rinse in cold water, drain for a few mo- 
ments and dry with a linen glass cloth. 

Never wash globes in a bowl that has; 
any grease on it. 

TO WASH GLASS GLOBES.— Ruls- 
inside with a little wet pumice powder on 
a cloth and in a very short time they will 
look like' new. 

PACKING GLASS AND CHINA.- 
When straw or hay are used they should 



c? 



THE BRAIN" OF FISH IS SMALL AXD DOES NOT FILL THE SKULli. 



first be dampened, which prevents all 
slipping. 

TO PREVENT HEAT FROM 
CRACKING GLASS. — When pouring 
some very hot liquid in a glass or dish, 
first put in a silver or metal spoon. 
The heat touches this first and prevents it 
comiuij in direct contact with the glass. 

TO CLEAN GLASS IN FRAMES.- 
When a glass is so arranged that water 
cannot be used, moisten tripoli with 
bi'andy, rub it on the glass while moist, 
and Avhen dry rub off with a silk rag. To 
prevent the mixture from injuring the 
cloth or velvet frame, use strips of tin 
bent to an angle. Set these on the frame 
wiih one edge on the glass. 

When the frames will not be injured by 
water, rub the glass with water containing 
a little liquid ammonia, and polish with 
moist paper. 

TO REMOVE STAINS FROM 
GLASS GOBLETS.— Put in them the fol- 
lowing mixture and shake gently round, 
repeating it several times if they are badly 
stained: Two tablespoonfuls of fine salt, 
scrap of soda. Afterwards wash well 
with cold water and the stains will have 
disappeared. 

TO POWDER GLASS.— Make a piece 
of glass red hot in the fire, and while in 
tliis state plunge it into cold water. It 
will immediately break into powder, which 
must be sifted and dried. It is used for 
making glass powder, filtering varnishes 
and other purposes. 

GLUE. — When melting glue for nse, 
it is a gooJ plan to add a little finely pow- 
dered chalk to it. This will greatly aug- 
ment its strength. 

GRATE BARS.— When these are red, 
before cleaning them in the usual way, 
rub the red parts with, a raw onion. 

TO CLEAN A RUSTY GRATE.— 
Brush it over well with rather wet black- 
lead; leave this on for two or three days, 
then polish in the usual way. 

TO REMOVE CANDLE-GREASE.- 
To remove candle-grease from clothing, 
lay a piece of blotting paper under the 
spot and another piece on top, and iron 
with a warm iron till the grease is all 
draw out into the paper. Change the pe- 
pers as often as they become marked by 
the grease. Be careful not to let the iron 
touch the goods or the color might become 
injured. 

TO REMOVE GREASE SPOT.— To 
take out grease from delicately colored silk 
or wool, wet the mark slightly with the 
yolk of a fresh egg, then lay over it a bit 
of white linen wrung out of boiling water. 
Press the linen down upon the fabric and 
rub gently for a second or two; t'aen re- 
move it, wash it clean in more hot water, 



and lay it again over the spot. Repe.nt 
three or four times, putting on more egg it 
the stain is obstinate, then rinse carefully 
in cold water, using as little as possibles 
or circles will appear when the spot is 
dry. 

TO REMOVE GREASE SPOTS 
FROM BOOKS.— Gently warm the 
greased or spotted part of the book, and 
then press upon it pieces of blotting paper 
one after another, so to absorb as much 
of the grease as possible. Have ready 
some fine oil of turpentine heated almost 
to a boiling point; warm the greased leaf 
a little and then with a soft, clean brus-i 
wet both sides with the heated turpentine. 
By repeating the application the grease 
will be extracted. Lastly, go over the 
place with another brush dipped in recti- 
fied spirits of wine. 

GREASE SPOTS ON CLOTH.— 
Sponge with alcohol in which a little salt 
has been dissolved. If the cloth is a 
light one, remove the spots by rubbing 
with spirits of chloroform. 

TO REMOVE GREASE SPOTS 
FROM FLOOR.— Moisten some baking 
soda and rub it on the spots with a cloth, 
this will remove them. 

TO REMOVE GREASE FROM 
LEATHER. — Apply the white of an egg 
to the spot and dry it in the sun; repeat 
the application until the stain is removed. 

HOUSEMAID'S HANDS.— When the 
hands are very dirty they can be thor- 
oughly cleaned by uting a mixture of salt 
and vaseline, rubbing it in well, then wash 
with ordinary soap. 

HANDS STAINED WITH CHEMI- 
CALS. — For cleaning the hands when 
stained with chemicals, put a quarter of a 
pound of glauber salts, quarter pound of 
chloride of lime and four ounces of water 
into a small wide mouthed bottle, and 
when required for use, pour some of the 
thick sediment into a saucer, and rub it 
well over the hands with a pumice-stone or 
a nail brush. Stains of nitrate of silver 
can be removed by a solution of chloride 
of iron. 

BLACK INK.— One pound of extract 
of logwood, one ounce bichromate of pot- 
ash, one-half ounce of prussiate potasa 
and six gallons of water. Pulverize the 
ingredients, heat boiling hot while thor- 
oughly stirring, then strain through a thin 
cloth. Half or one-fourth can be made 
the same way by reducing the quantities. 

INK MARKS ON FURNITURE.— 
Wash them with sour beer and then rub 
on a little spirits of salt. Afterwards 
polish in the usual way with furniture 
polish. 

INK SPOTS, TO REMOVE from car- 
pets or woolen goods, sponge thoroughly. 



A man's heart beats 92,160 times in a day. 



63 



while still wet, with skimmed milk; wash 
ofE the milk at once with a spouge dipped 
in clear, cold water, then spouge with 
warm water and rub dry with a cloth. 

Prom white goods. — Sprinkle with salt, 
wet with lemon juice and expose to the 
sunlight, or else sponge with oxalic acid. 

SIMPLE COPYING INK.— Dissolve 
one ounce of pulverized sugar candy in 
three ounces of ordinary black ink. 

INVISIBLE INK.— Dissolve one fluid 
ounce of common oil of vitriol in a pint of 
soft water. Stir well and allow it to cool. 
Write with a clean pen. When dry it 
will be invisible; held to the fire it turns 
an indelible black. 

TO REMOVE INK FROM PAPER.— 

If the stain is not too old it may be re- 
moved in the following way: Pour over a 
teaspoonful of chlorinated lime just enough 
water to cover it; moisten a piece of old 
linen with this; do not rub, but pat the 
stain and it will slowly disappear. If 
one application does not remove the ink 
let the paper dry, then apply again. 

TO CLEAN JAPANNED WARE.- 

Wet a sponge in warm suds and wash the 
article, rubbing well with a soft cloth 
until dry. If it still looks smeared, dust 
on a little flour and rub it with a cloth. 
A little sweet oil well rubbed on with a 
piece of flannel will remove any marks on 
the polished surface. 

TO CLEAN JASPER, PORPHYRY, 
Etc. — Mix up a quantity of the strongest 
soap-lees with quicklime to the consistence 
of milk and lay it on the stone for twenty- 
four hours. Clean it afterwards and it 
will appear as new. Rub afterwards 
with fine putty powder and olive oil. 
Also good for marble. 

KITCHEN FLOOR.— To keep a kitch- 
en floor and tables a good color scrub oc- 
casionally with soft soap and silver sand. 

KITCHEN TABLE, TO CLEANSE. 
— Rub the greasy stains with the pulp of a 
squeezed lemon and they will speedily 
fade. 

KNIFE BLADES.— Polish them with 
a piece of raw potato and finely-powdered 
rotten stone. Always wash them as soon 
as possible after use so the stain may not 
sink in. Hold them quite flat on the 
knifeboard or the edges are likely to get 
turned. 

TO CLEAN KNIVES.— Mix a small 
quantity of baking soda with the brick- 
dust; this will polish the knives. 

TO KEEP KNIVES. — Place sifted 
quicklime in a box about eight inches deep 
and keep the knives not in use in this. 
They should be plunged in to the top of tlie 
blades, but the handles must not touch. 

TO POLISH KNIVES.— Knives will 



take a brilliant polish if rubbed with pow- 
dered charcoal. 

TO WASH KNIVES.— Do not put the 

handles in water; wash each blade sepa- 
rately. Have a jug filled with enough 
boiling water to nearly cover the blades, 
and stand the knives in this till they are 
ready to be wiped. 

TO WHITEN IVORY-HANDLED 
KNIVES. — When these have become yel- 
low from age or usage rub well with 
sandpaper to whiten them. 

TO KEEP LAMPS BRIGHT.— Clean 

and fill with oil. 

THE CHIMNEY.— Dust the inside of 
the chimney, using a stick with a sponge 
attached, rinse thoroughly with warms 
water, wipe dry with a clean cloth, and 
polish with another. When drying the 
chimneys do not touch the glass with the 
fingers, as they leave marks. 

THE BURNER.— All smoke and dirt 
should be thoroughly washed off, scraping 
ofE the crust that forms on the tube 
around the wicks, and in the air-holes. 
Boil the burner occasionally. 

THE WICK.— Trim the wick down- far 
enough to remove it both from inside and 
outside. To trim it, turn up as far as the 
blackened portion extends, then cut 
straight across to get it even. When the 
wick gets too short, put in another, and 
keep the small pieces which can be joined 
neatly to make a longer one. The wick 
must not be too long; let it rest comfort- 
ably at the bottom of the lamp. 

TO CLEAN. — As often as once a month 
the oil should be turned out of the lamp, 
and wash out all dirt that settles at the 
bottom or this will clog the wick and pre- 
vent the lamp from burning well. Lamps 
in daily use require daily attention, and a 
certain hour in the morning should be kept 
for this purpose. 

TO MAKE A LAMP BURN 
BRIGHTLY.— A little salt placed in the 
reservoir of a lamp will make the flame 
steady and clear. 

TO CLEAN A DUPLEX LAMP.— The 
lamp should be taken to pieces about once 
a month in order to keep it in good work- 
ing order, and all fragments of charred 
wick removed with a rag kept for the 
purpose. Push a small brad awl or the 
point of the lamp scissors under the dent 
at the side and remove the upper part of 
the burner; a grating is then to be seen; 
remove this also with the help of the scis- 
sors in order to clean away the accumula- 
tion of blacks from the wicks which have 
fallen through the grating; this can be 
done at once if the lamp is a common one. 
Should there be a patent extingiiisher it 
must be taken away. Withdraw the little 



G4 



A HUMAN BODY HAS 240 BONES. 



bolt, lift ofif the extinguisher, and when all 
is cleaned put together again. 

LAMP WICK.— If a lamp wick sticks 
and will not work easily try pulling out a 
thread at each edge. This will often 
mend matters without any more trouble. 

FOR SUDDEN LEAKS. — When a 
leak takes place and it is impossible to pro- 
cure the services of a plumber, mix yellow 
soap and whiting with enough water to 
make a thick paste and apply it to the 
leak. For temporary purposes it will an- 
swer as well as solder. 

This will answer for a leak in a gaspipe. 

TO CLEAN LEATHER COVERED 
FURNITURE. — Mix well together one 
tablespoonful of vinegar and two of boiled 
linseed oil. Apply a very little of this mix- 
ture with a soft rag, rub it well in and 
polish with a soft duster. 

LEATHER TRUNKS AND PORT- 
MANTEAUS.— Beat up the white of an 
egg to a stiff froth, and dip into it a piece 
of old linen or other soft rag, rub the 
leather well, without using too much force. 
Then leave the article to dry, 

TO PREVENT PATENT LEATHER 
FROM CRACKING.— Patent leather will 
often crack under a very slight pressure, 
therefore before putting on shoes of this 
leather, place them before but not too close 
to the fire for a short time to make the 
leather pliant. 

The shoes should be rubbed to the shape 
of the foot with the hand, and they will 
not then be so liable to wrinkle and crack. 
When they are getting dull and losing their 
gloss, rub white of egg on them, 

VARNISH FOR PATENT LEATH- 
ERS. — Put into a jug half a pint of claret, 
(stale will do), a quarter of a pint of black 
ink, two ounces of powdered gum arable 
and one ounce of sugar candy. Place the 
jug in a saucepan of boiling water and 
stir at times till the gum and sugar have 
dissolved. Then strain through muslin 
and when sl'ghtly cool add half a quarter 
of methylated spirit, and then put it away 
for twenty-four hours covered with a 
folded cloth. If too thick add a little 
more dissolved gum, if too thin a little 
more melted candy. Apply thinly and 
evenly with the finger and place the 
shoes by the fire till the varnish hardens. 

LIME FOR PIANO KEYS.— Un- 
slacked lime sprinkled on piano keys keeps 
them from dust. Dusted over steel grates, 
fire-irons and fenders after they have been 
cleaned will keep them bright till wanted. 

TO RENDER LINEN INCOMBUSTl- 
RLE. — All linen, cotton, muslins, etc., 
when dipped in a solution of lungstate of 
soda or common alum will become incom- 
bustible. 



TO CLEAN LINOLEUM.— Linoleum 
floor coveriug will look as good as new if 
lubbed with equal parts of salad oil and 
turpentine. Rub thoroughly with a flan' 
nel cloth, not using too much of the mix- 
ture, nor allow any of it to remain on. 
Polish with a soft duster. 

No. 2. — Never use soap or brush when 
washing linoleum. Use instead warm wa- 
ter and a soft cloth or flannel; rinse with 
water and skimmed milk, and wipe very 
dry with a soft cloth, 

TO SOFTEN LINOLEUM.— This 
may be made soft after it has been packed 
and rolled away by laying it as straight 
as possible without pressure on the floor 
in front of the stove; next morning it will 
roll and be quite pliable. 

Another way is to put it right side 
downwards on the floor in front of the 
kitchen stove for one hour and then walk 
over it; it can then be laid perfectly 
flat. 

TO CLEAN MACKINTOSHES,— 

Spread the cloak ou an unpainted table 
and scrub it carefully with soft water 
and soap till all stains of mud are re- 
moved. Rinse in clear, soft water and 
hang out to dry. 

TO CLEAN MAHOGANY.— Rub it 
with the following mixture: Mix half 
a pint of spirts of turpentine and half a 
pint of vinegar together and rub the wood 
according to the grain, then polish with 
a soft flannel colth, 

MAHOGANY FURNITURE POL- 
ISH. — Shred a quarter of a pound of 
beeswax fine, melt it in a stone jar in a 
hot oven. Stir half a pint of turpentine 
into it before it gets quite cold. This 
makes a cheap and excellent polish for 
mahogany. 

TO REMOVE STAINS FROM MA- 
HOGANY, — Mix six ounces of spirit of 
salt and half an ounce of powdered salt 
of lemons. Drop a little of this mixture 
on the stains and rub well with a cork 
until they disappear, then wash off with 
cold water. 

MAHOGANY TABLES are often very 
much disfigured by white marks caused 
by standing hot dishes upon them with- 
out a mat between. To remove the Btains 
rub on a few drops of sweet oil and 
afterwards polish with a little spirits of 
white wine and a soft cloth. 

TO CLEAN MARBLE.— When marble 
is spotted and stained clean it by cover- 
ing the spots with a paste composed of 
equal parts of soda, powdered pumice stone 
and chalk, mixed smooth with water. Al- 
low the paste to remain on over night 
and wash it off in the morning with clear, 
hot water, after which rub the marble 
dry with a woolen cloth. 



RABBITS WOULD INCEEASE TO A MILLION" IN" THREE YEAES. 



65 



TO CLEAN MARBLE WASH- 
STANDS AND MANTELS.— SJred 
one pound of yellow soap and put it into 
a saucepan Avith one pound of common 
soda and as much water as will cover both, 
let boil till all is dissolved, then add one 
pound of powdered whiting and two 
ounces of powdered potash. Let come to 
a boil, pour it into a jar and when cold 
use as a soap for the marble. 

MARKS MADE BY HOT DISHES.— 

To remove these from a varnished table 
pour some kerosene over the spot and 
J:ub well with a soft cloth. 

CARE OF MATTING.— Matting 
should be frequently lifted and shaken to 
free it of dust. Sweep with a broom 
and occasionally wash with salt and wa- 
ter. Alcohol removes stains from it. 

A MIRROR should never stand or be 
hung where the sun's rays fall on it. 
The light and heat produce a chemical 
disintegration of the quicksilver at the 
back, which injures the reflective power 
and makes the glass dull. 

TO KEEP OUT MOTHS.— This is an 
excellent manner of saving all woolen and 
other garments from the ravages of moths. 
Just before the season for putting them 
away begins a chest is to be procured 
having the seams very tight. On the bot- 
tom put a layer of cedar shavings, among 
which are placed little bags of camphor, 
on this lay a linen sheet. Wrap each 
article up in a sheet of paper and lay 
it in the sheet. When all are in draw 
the sheet tightly together and catch it 
with a needle and thread, then cover with 
more cedar shavings and camphor. This 
has never been known to fail. 

TO PREVENT MUCILAGE FROM 
MOULDING. — Solutions of gum arable 
are very liable to become mouldy, and 
to avoid this add a little sulphate of 
quinine, a very small quantity being 
sufficient to prevent gum mucilage from 
spoiling. 

NAILS may be driven into hard wood 
without bending if they are first dipped 
in lard or oil. 

NEWSPAPERS are most useful for 
cleaning windows. Take a piece of news- 
paper, dip it in cold water and wash 
the window with it, afterwards wiping 
it dry and polishing with other newspa- 
pers. 

OILCLOTHS will last twice as long if 
a layer or two of wadded carpet lining is 
placed under them. Also give a light coat 
of varnish when first laid down. Milk 
and tepid water will keep oilcloths bright 
and clean. This is also good for painted 
floors. 

OILCLOTH AND LINOLEUM.— These 
can be cleaned with cold tea, which is 



better than soap; then polish with linseed 
oil and a little turpentine. Worn spots 
can be painted, over and the life of the 
covering may be greatly prolonged. 

OX-GALL is an excellent and delicate 
cleansing agent, it is a liquid soda soap. 
It removes grease, is said to fix and 
brighten colors, but is useless for white 
goods on account of its leaving a greenish 
tint. 

VARNISHED PAINT. -Two gallons 
of lukewarm water softened with a table- 
spoonful of pearlirie and two of kero- 
sene, will clean varnished paint beauti- 
fully and leave it polished. A teaspoon- 
ful of kerosene in a quart of water cleans 
glass perfectly and leaves it shining. 

NEWLY PAINTED ROOMS.-The 
unpleasant smell of paint may be lessened 
by setting pails of fresh water around 
the floors. 

TO PREPARE DAMP WALLS FOR 
PAINTING. — Dissolve one pound of good 
glue in one gallon of water and thicken 
with red lead. Brush it on while hot. 

TO CLEAN PAINTINGS.— Rub the 
picture well with good whiskey, which will 
make the varnish come off in a froth ; then 
wash well with cold water, and wlien dry 
varnish again. This will restore the pic- 
ture to its original color, unless very old 
Keep the picture covered from dust till 
the varnish is dry. 

TO CLEAN OIL PAINTINGS.— Take 
the picture from the frame, lay it flat 
and cover with a cloth wrung out in rain 
water. This must be renewed until all 
the dirt on the picture has been absorbed 
by the cloth or is so saturated that it can 
be easily removed with the cloth. Then 
rub the picture very gently with a bit of 
cotton soaked in pure linseed oil. Never 
wash nor scrub a picture, as soap will 
spoil it. A drop or two of ammonia in 
the rain water will do no harm. 

PAINT MARKS ON CLOTHING.— 
When fresh these can be easily removed 
by rubbing with turpentine or kerosene 
applied with a bit of cloth. If the paint 
has dried on, rub with a mixture of equal 
parts of turpentine and pure alcohol, and 
clean with benzine. 

TO REMOVE FRESH PAINT FROM 
A COAT. — Take immediately a piece of 
cloth, and rub the paint spot with the 
wrong side of it. If no other cloth is at 
hand, part of the inside of the coat skirt 
will do. This simple application will gen- 
erally remove the paint when quite fresh; 
otherwise rub some other cloth on the 
spot with the finger. 

TO REMOVE FINGER MARKS 
FROM PAINT.— They can easily be re- 
moved on painted woodwork by rubbing 
with a cloth wrung out of ammonia and 



ee MACKEREL, ETC., PASS THE WINTER IX THE MUD IN DEEP WATER, 



dry whiting. This does not injure the 
paint. 

TO REMOVE THE SMELL OP 
PAINT — The unwholesome, di&aj;reeable 
odor of paint often affects persons and 
produces a severe headache, accompanied 
by nausea. To prevent the smell from 
penetrating the house, place two large 
pans containing warm water, mixed with 
a little carbolic acid, in the newly painted 
apartment; either the liquid or powdered 
form of carbolic will answer. Keep the 
windows open, if possible, the doors shut, 
and renew the carbolic and water twice 
during the day. 

No. 2.— Place a vessel of lighted char- 
coal in the room and throw in two or 
three handfuls of juniper berries; shut the 
windows, the doors and the chimney close. 
Twenty-four hours afterward, open the 
room, when the smell will have entirely 
disappeared. 

No. 3.— Plunge a handful of hay into a 
pail of water and let it stand in the newly 
painted room. 

CARE OF FRYING PANS.— Do not 
scrape, but rub well with salt directly 
after use, and wipe clean. If very black, 
rub well with a dry crust of bread and 
scour with sapolio and hot water, or fill 
with cold water and two teaspoonfuls of 
ammonia and a small lump of soda and 
let stand for an hour. 

CARE OF OMELET PAN.— This 
must never be washed or scratched in any 
way, and used only for omelets. When 
done with, rub well inside and out with 
pieces of soft paper till clean, then rub 
with a dry cloth. If any pieces have stuck 
to it, put in a tiny piece of dripping, allow 
this to heat over the fire, and the pieces 
will be easily removed. 

BROWN PAPER.— Brown paper can 
be made useful for many purposes. When 
put under a carpet it will wear twice as 
long and keep out draughts. If a layer of 
brown paper be stitched between two 
layers of cheap blanketing it will make a 
wonderfully warm quilt. For mounting 
pictures there is no better material, and 
a room may be papered with it with ex- 
cellent results. 

PASTE FOR ATTACHING LABELS 
TO METAL. — Take ten parts of traga- 
canth mucilage, ten parts of honey, and 
one part of flour. The flour appears *o 
hasten the drying, and renders the paste 
less susceptible to damp. 

PASTE FOR PAPER HANGING.— 
Mix four pounds of flour well with cold 
water as thick as possible. Boil two gal- 
lons of water, add a little alum, then 
take a little of this hot water and mix 
it into the paste, stirring the while till 
it is all added, then strain for use. Thin 



it with cold water. Size the walls with 
thin glue size. 

PASTE SUPERIOR TO GUM ARA- 
BIC. — A brilliant and adhesive paste for 
manufacturing fancy articles of any kind 
is made by dissolving caseine precipitated 
from milk by acetic acid and washed 
with pure water, in a saturated solution 
of borax. 

PASTE FOR POSTAGE STAMPS.— 
The mucilage used by the United States 
for coating the postage stamps is made 
by mixing two parts by weight of dextrine, 
one of acetic acid, five of water and one 
of alcohol. 

A USE FOR OLD PENS.— An old 
pen put mto the inkpot will, to a great 
extent, prevent the acid from wearing 
out the pens. 

A PENWIPER.— A piece of raw po- 
tato is an excellent penwiper; stand this 
iu a small cup on the writing desk. 

TO KEEP PIANO KEYS.— To keep 
the keys from turning yellow open the 
piano on bright sunny days and always 
keep it closed at night and in damp 
weather. 

TO WHITEN PIANO KEYS.— Apply 
finely powdered whiting to the keys with 
a damp cloth, then dry with a dry 
cloth, or chamois. Let the cover be left 
open and the keys exposed as much as 
possible to the sun and air. Rub any 
spots with lemon juice before applying 
the whiting. 

TO CLEAN A PIPE.— A very simple 
and effective plan for cleaning tobacco 
pipes is to cut half an inch from the end 
of an ordinary cork and fit it tightly 
into the bowl of the pipe. Then with a 
knife cut a hole through the cork wide 
enough to admit the nozzle of a water 
tap with a little pressure, turn on the 
water gently until the flow through the 
stem is sufficiently strong and let it run 
until the pipe is clean. 

TO CLEAN A MEERSCHAUM 
PIPE. — Place it in cold sweet milk and 
boil it over a very slow fire. 

TO CLEAN PLATE.— Wash the plate 
in a lather of common yellow soap and 
boiling water, dry it, then mix as muc'i 
hartshorn powder as will make a thick 
paste with cold water and smear this 
over the plate with a soft rag. When 
dry brush clean with a silver brush and 
polish with a dry chamois. 

PLATE GLASS SCRATCHES.— To 
remove slight scratches from plate glass 
clean off the surface by rubbing gently 
wth a pad of cotton wool, then cover 
the pad with cotton velvet charged with 
fine rouge. This not only removes the 
scratches, but imparts much brilliancy 
to the glass. Glass should always be 



GOLD AND SILVER FISH LIVE "WITH LITTLE TOOD, 



67 



kept brilliant as well as clear and this 
can only be obtained by polishing. 

GREASE ON PLUSH CURTAINS 
AND UPHOLSTERY.— Lay a damp 
cloth over a hot iron and stretch the 
plush over the face of it. Brush the pile 
into place with a soft brush dipped in 
salt water. 

PUTTY. — A cement used by glaziers 
made of whiting and linseed oil. The 
whiting is dried, pounded, sifted and 
stirred into the oil, then, when stiff, it 
is worked by the hand or a board until 
it is smooth. 

Colored putty has a mixture of red 
ochre, lampblack or other color with the 
whiting. 

When using putty always mix grease 
or fat of any kind into it and it will 
work much easier. 

TO EXTERMINATE RATS AND 
MICE. — Spread some very finely pow- 
dered plaster on a dish or plate and on 
this a thin layer of flour. Place this and 
also another plateful of water near the 
boles where the rodents come out. They 
will try to eat the flour and at the same 
time will swallow the plaster and will 
then quench their thirst with the water. 
They will never come back. 

TO DRIVE MICE AWAY.— Place 
some calomel in dry flour and put it 
where the mice can eat it; this soon drives 
them away; they go for water and never 
return. 

TO DRIVE RATS AWAY.— It is rec- 
ommended to put pulverized potash in all 
the rat holes about the house. This soon 
becomes sticky when exposed to the air, 
and the special detestation of a rat is 
anything which, injures his glossy coat. 

TO STOP UP MICE HOLES.— Wet 
a large cork and dip in cayenne pepper, 
securely fasten the hole with the cork 
and the mice will disappear. 

HOW TO DUST A ROOM.— Let the 
dust settle fifteen or twenty minutes be- 
fore dusting. Hold one end of the dust- 
ing cloth with the right hand, the other 
with the left; with the right hand gather 
the dust carefully into the folds of the 
duster and shake it out of the window or 
door. 

Remove the dust from everything on 
which it can settle — window panes, gas 
globes, lamp shades, etc., these being some- 
times neglected. 

Polish the furniture with beeswax and 
turpentine and the room will look fresh 
and bright again. 

HOW TO SWEEP A ROOM.— Arti- 
cles that can be removed, such as cur- 
tains, table covers and cushions, should 
be carried away after shaking them well. 
All upholstered furnituxe should be 



brushed with a whiskbroom and covered 
over; the books should also be protected. 
Brush down the ceilings and walls. Have 
a large earthenware bowl of water, to 
which is added a spoonful of ammonia. 
This will be more convenient than a pail, 
as the extra breadth across the top will 
admit the broom with more ease. 

Handle the broom gently; a light, short 
stroke is more effectual than a heavy 
one, besides being less injurious to the 
carpet. Dip the broom into the water 
and shake off all the water possible into 
the bowl. Sweep a small space, and as 
the dust collects on the broom, rinse off, 
changing the water as it becomes dis- 
colored. Go ovor the whole carpet in this 
way, brushing the dust well from the 
corners and edges. When the dirt is 
collected from off half the carpet take 
it up before sweeping the other half. This 
will save dragging it over the whole car- 
pet. Carpets having a nap should be 
swept the right way. This is easily de- 
termined by stroking it with, the hand. 

SWEEPING HINTS.— Newspaper col- 
lects dust better than anything else. Take 
one page at a timo, wet it in hot water 
and wring it between the hands till it 
ceases to drip, then tear it into pieces and 
throw them over the carpet. Most of the 
dust will gather on the paper while sweep- 
ing. 

When sweeping a matting push large 
pieces of wet newspaper in front of tlie 
broom; they will amass the light fluff and 
prevent it flying back. 

TO MAKE DOWN PILLOWS.— When 
making down piUows wax the inner cover- 
ing and then the down will not be able 
to work through the two coverings. To 
do this iron the wrong side of the tick 
with a hot iron rubbed with beeswax, 
rubbing the iron over the wax each time 
before putting it on the cloth. 

TO CLEAN LIGHT FUR RUGS.— 
Rub with bran moistened vr.th hot water; 
rub with a piece of coarse flannel till 
the fur is quite dry, and with a piece of 
thin lawn, apply dry bran in the same 
manner. It is best to tack the rug in a 
suitable position before starting the proc- 
ess. 

WHITE SKIN RUGS.— These can be 
cleaned with a sponge and naphtha, u&iug 
great care, as naphtha is ii.flammable. 

RUGS, TO PREVENT THE COR- 
NERS FROM CURLING.— A piece of 
narrow webbing, such as is used for hold- 
ing furniture springs in place, sewn upon 
the under edge of rugs, will prevent the 
corners from curling. 

TO TEST A RUG.— The best test and 
the one often employed by exporters in 
Eastern countries is to drop a piece of 
red-hot charcoal upon it. If singed wool 



68 



GOLD FISH WERE FIRST BROUGHT FEOit CHINA IN 1728. 



can be brushed off with the hand with- 
out leaving the slightest trace, then the 
carpet is of high quality. 

TO CLEAN RIDING SADDLES.— 
If much soiled wash the leather with a 
weak solution of oxalic ac'd and water, 
and when dry, with the watery portion 
of beef blood. The latter can be pre- 
served by adding a little carbolic acid 
and keeping it in a tightly corked bottle. 

Brown saddles may be cleaned to look 
as well as new by the use of tepid water 
and pure castile soap. 

BURNT SAUCEPANS. — Do not 

scrape them unless absolutely necessary. 
Fill them with cold water, changing it 
occasionally and removing the softened 
parts. Enamelled saucepans may be 
rubbed with brick to remove the stain 
if it will not yield to the other treat- 
ment. A little good soap powder in the 
•water will help the operation. 

CARE OF SAUCEPANS. — After 
eaucepaus have been thoroughly cleaned, 
place them to dry on the rack over the 
range. A saucepan must never be turned 
upside down on a shelf, as to exclude the 
air, otherwise it will not smell fresh when 
taken down for use. 

IRON SAUCEPANS.— Scour inside and 
out with soap, sand and soda; then rinse 
tvell and dry. 

TO WASH SAUCEPANS.— As soon as 
they are emptied, fill them with water 
and keep hot on the stove till washed. Be 
careful to wash them very clean or your 
cooking will be unsucce.ssful. Use a 
proper pot brush or birch twigs, some soda 
crushed to powder and mixed with an 
equal quantity of sand, and a clean, coarse 
cloth. Rub the insides with the brush, 
and if any bits stick to the pan, scour 
with the soda and sand. Brush the out- 
sides of the pan, using pleuty of soda 
water, then rinse and wipe dry with the 
above cloan clofh. Set the pans on th-f 
fire for a few moments to dry before put- 
ting away. Always turn the saucepans 
upside down, leaving a little space for the 
air to enter. 

TO WASH GREEN SHUTTERS.- 
When they are dingy and faded, wash 
them in the ordinary way, then rub with 
a little sweet oil. 

TO CLEAN HAIR AND WIRE 
SIEVES.— Wash with a brush in hot 
water, soap and soda; rinse well. Hold 
up to the light afterwards to see the holes 
are free. Dry very thoroughly. 

BLACK SPOTS ON SILVER.— These 
are caused by damp. Keep the silver- 
basket in a drawer with, some unslaked 
lime to absorb the damp. The lime must 
frequently be renewed. 



TO KEEP SILVER BRIGHT.— Oc- 
casionally soak it for several hours in 
strong borax water at boiling point; this 
must be poured over the silver, and after 
it has well soaked rub with a chamois 
leather. It will brighten it like new. 

TO KEEP SILVER FROM TAR- 
NISHING. — Never keep fut more silver 
than is required for daily use. The sur- 
plus should be well cleaned and polished, 
wrapped first in tissue paper, then in 
newspaper and put away in a box. Keep 
a piece of camphor in the box. If it is 
wanted in a burr.'* , it will be ready for use 
at a moment's notice. 

SILVER CLEANING LIQUID.- 
Eight ounces of prepared chalk, two 
ounces turpentine, one ounce alcohol, four 
drachms spirits of camphor and two 
drachms liquor of ammonia. Apply with 
a sponge and allow to dry before polish- 
ing. 

TO POLISH TARNISHED SILVER. 
— For badly tarnished silver, wet a soft 
cloth in sweet oil and then with a clean- 
ing powder rub till the dark places have 
disappeared. Then rub over with the 
powder and a dry chamois before finish- 
ing with a polishing brush. 

SILVER SPOONS AND FORKS for 
everyday use should be kept in a plate 
basket, with a chamois over the top, ready 
to give each one a rub before placing it on 
the table. 

SILVER TEAPOTS, MILK JUGS, 
ttc, are best kept in green baize bags, 
made to fit them loosely, from which they 
can be taken at any time. Put a piece of 
gum camphor in every bag, renewing it 
when it is evaporated. 

THE SINK.— This must be kept scru- 
pulously clean, washed and s^crubbed every 
time it is used, besides each day it must 
be washed out with soapsuds, and if 
necessary keep it clean with spirits of 
salt, being careful to rinse it afterwards; 
in this way it will always look like new. 

TO CLEAN A DIRTY SINK.— Apply 
a little kerosene rubbed on with a. cloth. 
The drain will be all the better for having 
a little hot, strong soda water poured 
down it the last thing at night, for this 
will dislodge any accumulated grease. Tea 
leaves and other solid matter must never 
be allowed to get into the sink-pipe, for 
they will remain and cause an unwhole- 
some odor. 

SOAP JELLY.— This is made by shred- 
ding half a pound of soap and boiling it in 
three pints of water till dissolved. Let 
stand till cold, when it will have the ap- 
pearance of strong jelly. This is used for 
washing all sorts of flannels and woven 
woolen garments. 

SHAVING SOAP.— Melt together one 



THE SALMON IS IN" THE EGG 4 MONTHS AND THE CARP 3 WEEKS. 



69 



ounce and a half each of almond oil and 
white wax, then gradually add three table- 
spoonfuls of rose-water with one ounce 
and a half of finely shredded castile soap. 
When all is thoroughly amalgamated, pour 
the soap into jars for use. 

SOFT SOAP— Take eight quarts of 
lye of sufficient strength to float an egg, 
four pounds of clean grease, and three 
quarters of a pound of resin. Boil all to- 
gether in a large kettle. At first it is apt 
to rise; if so add a little strong lye, and 
so continue to do until the materials are 
well incorporated. Then remove it from 
the fire, and stir by degrees weak lye, 
stirring it each time, till the kettle is full. 
This makes an excellent soft soap. 

SODA FOR CLEANSING.— Dissolve a 
cupful of soda in a gallon of water and 
leave in a jar near the kitchen sink. Into 
this throw all pieces of soap and remains 
tit packets of soap powders. Add this to 
the water used for washing and scrubbing 
very dirty pans, earthenware, tinware, 
woodwork (but not paint), f<nd for wash^ 
ing kitchen cloths and dusters. 

TO CLEAN DIRTY SPONGES.— Put 
a piece of soda the size of a walnut and a 
tablespoonful of salt in a basin and pour 
on boiling water. Allow dirty sponges to 
stand in this for a short time, when they 
will be clean and free of grease. Rinse in 
eold water. 

TO CLEAN GREASY SPONGES.- 
When sponges get greasy let them dry and 
then work them with a small quantity of 
turpentine, and after a few minutes wash 
them with warm soap and water with a 
little bit of soda. This cleanses them 
with very little trouble. 

No. 2.— P'ot a handful of salt on the 
sponge and rinse the salt well through the 
sponges. Let dry in a thorough draught 
of air. This keeps it free from sliminess 
unless saturated with soap. 

No. 3. — Dissolve some citric acid in 
water in a basin and wash the sponge in 
it, afterwards rinsing in clean water. 

TO WHITEN SPONGES.— Place a 
dessert spoonful of tartaric acid in a large 
bowl, pour over one quart of boiling water 
and stir with a spoon till the acid is well 
dissolved. Put in the sponges, squeeze 
and rinse them several times. When the 
slimy accumulation has disappeared take 
them out and rinse thoroughly in cold 
water. By this process sponges which 
were useless become equal to new. 

NO. 2. TO CLEAN SPONGES.— An- 
other method is to plunge them into cold 
buttermilk, soak for a few hours, then 
wash out in clean water. 

OAK STAIN.— Equal parts of Ameri- 
can potash and pearl ash; two ounces each 
to about a quart of water. It requires 
careful application, as the American 



potash is a strong solvent and will blister 
the hands. Use a very common brush, as 
it softens a good one once using. Keep it 
corked in a bottle, and it is always ready 
for use. If too deep a color, add more 
water. 

DARK BROWN FLOOR STAIN.— 
First wash the floor with hot wiater and 
soda — no soap. Brush all over with glue 
water and apply this stain when dry. 
Dissolve four ounces of orange shellac in 
one pint of methylated spirit, and enough 
dry brown-umber to get it the required 
tint. Apply another coat if necessary, 
and polish with beeswax and turpentine. 

WALNUT STAIN.— One quart of 
water; lan ounce and a half of washing 
soda; two and a half ounces of Vandyke 
brown; a quarter of an ounce of bichro- 
mate of potash. Eoil for ten minutes and 
apply with a brush either hot or cold. 

TO STAIN WOOD A FINE BLACK. 
— Drop a little oil of vitriol into a small 
quantity of water, rub this on the wood, 
then hold it to the fire till it becomes a fine 
black, and when polished it will be exceed- 
ingly beautiful. 

HOW TO REMOVE STAINS.— When 
using any liquid to remove a stain always 
begin on the outside of the stain, painting 
a ring of the liquid, whatever it may be, 
round the stain to prevent its spreading 
further. When the centre is touched first 
it spreads over the material, making it 
worse than the first. 

ACID STAINS.— Treat them with am- 
monia. 

ALKALINE STAINS.— Removed with 
acids. 

KEROSENE STAINS ON BILLIARD 
TABLES.— Pound some rough fuller's 
earth, lay it dry on the spot, press it down 
with the hands, and after a few hours re- 
move and apply fresh earth. Be careful 
to remove all the powder of one applica- 
tion before putting on another. 

FINGER STAINS.— To remove stains 
made by paring potatoes, rub them with a 
slice of hard, green apple. 

FLANNEL STAINS.— Soak for half an 
hour before the garment is washed in 
equal parts of glycerine and egg-yolk, 
after rubbing it on the stain. 

FRUIT STAINS.— Most of these yield 
juices which, owing to their acid, perma-^ 
uently injare the tone of the dye; but the 
greater part may be removed without leav- 
ing a stain, if the spot be rinsed in cold 
water in which a few drops of liquid am- 
monia have been placed, but this must be 
before the fruit stain has dried. Another 
way is to dip the stuff immediately in al- 
cohol, then hold it over a bowl and let 
boiling water be poured slowly over the 
stained p-art. 



70 



MANY FISH FEED CHIEFLY ON HERBS AND VEGETABLES. 



FRUIT STAINS ON HANDS.— Stains 
left on the hands from paring fruits, nuts, 
etc., can be removed by soaking in strong 
tea; brush vigorously with a nail brush 
and rinse in warm water. 

GRASS STAINS.— These are apt to be 
found on children's clothing, and are very 
difficult to remove. Dip the spot in mo- 
lasses until thoroughly soaked, then wash 
this out in clear tepid water. Should this 
fail to remove the stains, use a moderately 
strong solution of chlorine of tin and tepid 
water; after saturating with the solution. 
wash at once and thoroughly in lukewarm 
water. This chlorine water may be used 
as a last resource, but the article must he 
taken out at once and washed in clear 
water. Keep it from the hands as much 
as possible. 

INK STAINS.— These are difficult to 
extract if the material has been washed. 
When fresh the stains yield rapidly it 
salt be applied while the spot is still 
wet. When this becomes discolored brush 
it off, slightly dampen the material and 
repeat till all trace of the stain has dis- 
appeared. 

Oxalic acid in form of a concentrated 
aqueous solution will remove fresh ink or 
iron stains, or soak in fresh milk, chang- 
ing occasionally. Old ink stains^ are 
treated first with protochloride of tin to 
deoxidize the iron, then with diluted oxalic 
acid. On white goods touch with a dilute 
solution of chloride of lime and then 
wash it off thoroughly. 

INK STAINS ON FLOORS.— These 
can be removed by using either strong 
Tinegar or salts of lemon. 

STAINS ON LIGHT MATERIALS.— 
Wash the stain with cold water and Boap, 
then rub well with fine oatmeal. Leave 
this on till quite dry, then remove with 
a stiff brush and the stain or grease 
mark will be removed. 

LUBRICANT STAINS.— These gener- 
ally contain, besides grease, oxide of iron 
from machinery, etc. Extract the grease 
with benzine, ox-gall or ammonia and 
then treat the spot with oxalic acid or 
chloride of lime water, or lemon juice if 
the material is very delicate. Rinsing 
must always follow the application of 
either of these. 

NITRATE OF SILVER STAINS.— 
Photographers frequently stain their 
clothes and cloths with these. The im- 
mediate and repeated application of a 
very weak solution of cyanide of potas- 
sium and afterwards a thorough rinsing 
in clear water will generally remove these 
stains without injury to the colors. 

PAINT STAINS.— Treat them with oil 
of turpentine to remove the oil, with 
oxygenated water to oxidize the lead and 
finally with diluted acetic acid. 



PAINT STAINS ON GLASS.— Dis- 
solve common washing soda in water, put 
it onto the stain, let remain for about 
half an hour, then wash off. If it does 
not remove give it another application. 

Another way is to mix three parts of 
American potash with one part of un- 
slacked lime. Lay it on with a stick, 
leave for some time and it will remove 
either paint or tar. 

PAINT STAINS ON SATIN.— Rub 

with a flannel cloth dipped in turpentine. 

PERSPIRATION STAINS. — The 
stains produced by perspii-ation are to 
be treated first with weak ammonia and 
then with the bichloride of tin solution 
(eau gcarlate) which will, if not altogether 
destroyed, restore it. To remove perspi- 
ration stains from blouses put the stained 
part into strong soda water for a lew 
moments before washing, well rinsing 
afterwards in clean, hot water b.-f're 
soaping the material. 

STAINS OP RESINS, VARNISHES 
AND SEALING WAX may be removed 
by warming and applying strong methy- 
lated spirits. Care must always be laken 
that in rubbing the material to rcijiove 
the stains, the friction should always be 
applied the way of the stuff and not in- 
differently, backwards and forwards. 

STAINS FROM STONE.— To remove 
grease from stone steps or passages pour 
strong soda and water, boiling hot, over 
the spot, lay on it a little fuller's earth 
made into a thin paste with boiling wa- 
ter; let it remain all night, and if the 
grease is not all removed repeat the proc- 
ess. Grease may sometimes be taken 
out by rubbing the spot with a hard 
stone — not hearthstone — using sand and 
very hot water containing soap and soda. 

SWEET OIL STAINS.— These can be 
removed by washing in good soap suds 
and ammonia. 

TAR STAINS.— To remove tar and 
axle grease from white goods apply a 
heavy coating of butter, then wash with. 
soapy water containing borax. 

TAR AND PITCH STAINS.— These 
are easily removed by successive applica- 
tions of spirits of turpentine, coal tar 
naphtha and benzine. If they are very 
old and hard soften them by rubbing 
lightly with a bit of wool dipped in olive 
cil. The softened mass will then ea'-ily 
yield to the action of the other solvents. 

VARNISH STAINS ON HANDS.— 
To remove these from the hands rub on 
methylated spirit, dry with a rag and 
then wash thoroughly in soapy wat^^r. 

VARNISH STAINS, TO REMOVE.— 
Rub both sides of the stain with wet 
soap, mix some starch to a thick paste 
with cold water, spread it over the boaped 



THE WHITE SHARK HAS SWALLOWED A MAN" WHOLE. 



71 



places and expose the cloth to the air. 
If in three daj's the stains have not en- 
tirely disappeared repeat the process. 

WALL PAPER STAINS.— To remove 
oil stains or marks where people have 
rested their heads mix pipe clay with 
water to the consistency of cream, lay 
it on the spot and let it remain till the 
following day, when it may easily be 
removed with a penknife or a brush. 

WHITEWASH STAINS. — When 
these are on carpet they can be removed 
by sponging with strong vinegar. 

WINE STAINS.— These leave an ugly 
stain on white materials. Rinse in cold 
water, applying locally a weak solution 
of chloride of lime and again rinse in 
plenty of water. The dressing must be 
removed by steaming, starching and press- 
ing. 

When wine is spilled on a tablecloth 
Bhake plenty of salt over the stain; it 
.will disappear when washed. 

TO CLEAN STEEL BUCKLES.— 
Rub with a paste made of olive oil and 
whiting, leave till dry, then brush oS 
t»riskly. Polish with dry whiting. 

TO PREVENT STEEL FROM RUST- 
ING. — A small bag of quicklime put 
among steel articles will prevent their 
rusting. 

TO POLISH STEEL AND NICKEL 
ARTICLES. — Use emery powder mixed 
with a tablespoonful of sweet oil and 
a tablespoonful of turpentine. Take 
enough of the powder to make a thin 
paste and apply with a flannel. Finish 
with a pijce of flannel dipped in a little 
of the dry powder. 

TO REMOVE RUST FROM STEEL. 
— Put oil and quicklime on stubborn rust 
spots and let it remain several days. 
Then rub with oil and brickdust and pol- 
ish with some of the dry dust. 

TO BLACK A STOVE.— Use a pair 
of stout leather gloves or the rubber 
mitten with a woolley palm, and apply 
the blacking with the round of an or- 
dinary shoebrush. The other side of the 
brush to use for polishing. Always brush 
the dust off the stove before applyinj^ 
any polish. 

TO CLEAN A STOVE.— A stove 
rubbed daily with a soft cloth and a 
few drops of turpentine may be kept black 
and clean, though not polished. Sub- 
stances spilled on such a stove may be 
cleaned off with soap and water. 

MANAGEMENT OF A GAS STOVE. 
' — When a kitchen gas stove begins to 
smell and smoke find out whether it is 
Dot dirty. If so apply to the oven door, 
back, sides and shelves, a good washing 
of boiling water containing soda and a 
little household ammonia. These parts 



are sometimes coated with grease from 
various bakings. Sometimes the gas does 
not light properly. The flame has a very 
pale bluey yellow look; makes a noise 
when burning and seems to be alight in 
the pipes. This is often caused by a 
draught or bang of the oven door; it pro- 
duces a most unpleasant penetrating 
smell. Wlien this is noticed put it out 
then turn on the tap and let a very little 
gas escape before applying the match. 
Sometimes this requires to be done four 
or five times. 

Dirt and a too full pressure of gas 
turned on are toe reasons for gas stoves 
being condemned as objectionable. 

Wash the top of the stove at times with 
hot water and soda, then blaeklead it. 
Clean the steel parts with emery paper 
and if the taps are of brass use brick- 
dust and a chamois. 

TO REMOVE MARKS FROM A 
POLISHED TABLE.— When these have 
been made by hot dishes and plates rub 
them well with a little salad oil, letting 
it remain on for a while, then pour on 
a few drops of spirits of wine and polish 
till dry with a soft cloth. 

TO CLEAN TAPESTRY AND CRE- 
TONNE. — Clean tapestry with warm 
bran, rubbing it on with a piece of new 
flannel. 

Clean cretonne with warm flour, using a 
piece of clean flannel on the hand. When 
clean, brush off the flour with a brush. 
Another way is to apply a thick paste of 
fuller's earth and water; brush it off after 
it has been on for five minutes. 

TEA-KETTLE.— Water of every kind 
except rain water will speedily cover the 
inside of a tea-kettle with an unpleasant 
crust. This may easily be guarded against 
by placing a clean oyster shell or a piece 
of stone or marble in the kettle. It will 
keep the interior in good order by attract- 
ing the particles of earth or of stone. 

TO CLEAN TEA-KETTLES. — Tin 

kettles may be made as bright as new by 
simply rubbing them with a woolen rag 
dipped in oil and then wiping dry with a 
clean cloth. 

rORrOISE SHELL, TO POLISH.— 

Polish all shell goods, real or imitation, 
by rubbing first in alcohol, dry with a soft 
flannel and polish with bismuth powder. 
This makes it look as well as when new. 

TO KEEP A TEAPOT.— When put- 
ting away the best teapot drop a lump of 
sugar into it after it is well dried. This 
will prevent its smelling musty. 

TO CLEAN A TEAPOT.— Fill with 
boiling water and add some strong wash- 
ing soda; let it remain for a day or two, 
then rinse out well. 



THE GREEN SEA-TL'RTLE IS MOST PROLIFIC IN" SOUTH AMERICA. 



TO SCOUR TINS.— Cake tins, strain- 
ers, etc., that are greasy, should be first 
washed in hot soda water, and then 
scoured clean with a soapy flannel dipped 
into silver sand. When the surface is per- 
fectly clean, rinse in hot water, and dry 
with a soft cloth, then polish with a lit- 
tle dry whiting and finish with a chamois. 

COMMON VARNISH. —This is in- 
tended for protecting surfaces against at- 
mospheric exposure, especially for wood 
and iron. Powder three pounds of resin, 
put it in a tin can and add two and a half 
pints of spirits of turpentine; shake well 
and let stand for a day or two, shakingoc- 
casionaliy. Then add five quarts of boiled 
linseed oil; shake and stand it in a warm 
room till clear. Decant off the clear part 
and use or reduce with spirits of turpen- 
tine till of the proper consistency. 

VARNISH FOR FURNITURE. — A 
pound and a half of shellac, one gallon ot 
naphtha; dissolve and it is ready without 
filtering. To darken, benzine and dragon's 
blood are used. To make it lighter use 
bleached lac. 

TO VARNISH FURNITURE.— Clean 
the work well; fill up all the knots or 
blemishes with cement of the same color; 
see that the brush is clean and free from 
loose hairs; dip it in the varnish, stroke it 
against the pot and give the work a thin 
and regular coat; repeat twice, taking care 
not to pass the brush twice in the same 
place. Let it dry in a moderately warm 
place, that the varnish may not chill. 
After six or seven coats press the knuckles 
on it to prove whether it is quite hard (if It 
leaves a mark it is not sufficiently so), then 
with the first three fingers of the hand rub 
the varnish till it chafes, and proceed over 
that part of the work intended to be pol- 
ished, in order to take out all the streaks 
or lumps made by the brush. Give it an- 
other coat and let it stand another day or 
two to harden. 

MASTIC VARNISH.— One pint of spir- 
its of turpentine and ten ounces of the 
clearest gum mastic. Set it in a sand bath 
until all is dissolved, then strain through a 
fine sieve and it is ready for use. If too 
thick thin with spirits of turpentine. 

WHITE MARKS ON VARNISH 
should have the following polish applied; 
Shake in a bottle equal parts of linseed oil 
and turpentine, and apply a small quan- 
tity on a soft piece of rag until the original 
color is restored. Wipe it all off and pol- 
ish with a soft rag. 

VARNISH FOR WHITE PAINT.— 
This should give the appearance of enamel 
when dry. Mix together four ounces of 
white-lead paste, half an ounce of patent 
dryer, and six ounces of white spirit var- 
nish. This makes it the consistency of 



ordinary white paint. If too thick add a 
little turpentine to reduce it. 

SPIRIT VARNISH.— One pint of spir- 
its of wine, two ounces of gum sandarac, 
one ounce of shellac, half an ounce of 
mastic, half a pound of gum benjamin and 
one ounce of A''enetian turpentine. It may 
be colored red with dragon's blood or In- 
dian red, or yellow with saffron. Stand It 
in a warm place till the gums are dis- 
solved; then strain off. 

TO CLEAN VELLUM.— Apply ben- 
zine with a sponge. It will remove almost 
every stain and does not destroy the tex- 
ture in the least. 

TO CLEAN A VIOLIN.— Use soap and 
water but avoid running it through the 
"F" holes. Clean the interior with dry 
rice. Do not use spirit. Or use ordinary 
paraffin oil; slightly saturate a soft silk 
rag and wasii the violin with it; the par- 
affin dissolves the crust of dirt and resin 
and cleans the varnish without injuring. 

For the inside steep a handful of rice 
in a solution of sugar and water for five 
minutes; drain off, and nearly dry tne rice 
till just sticky. Put it in at sound holes 
and shake till tired; this will pick up all 
dirt; then turn it out. 

TO CLEAN VIOLIN BOWS.— Wet a 
small piece of flannel in cold water; rub It 
on some best yellow soap; double it; then, 
holding the hair gently between the finger 
and thumb, rub till clean, using plenty of 
soap. Rinse the flannel, wipe off the bow; 
then wipe dry with a piece of muslin or 
linen. In one hour it will be ready for the . 
resin. 

A solution of borax and water is also 
good. 

TO REPAIR BROKEN WALLS.- 
Take equal parts of white house sand and 
plaster of paris. Mix with water and fill 
up tne places quickly. 

TO MAKE A WALL DAMP-PROOF. 
— When a wall is found to be too damp to 
hold wall paper, prepare a coating of the 
following ingredients: A quarter of a 
pound of shellac and a quart of naphtha. 
Brush this over the damp spots, and when 
it dries the wall will be found to be im- 
pervious to moisture from the other side. 

TO CLEAN WALL PAPER.— Cut off 
the crust from a not too fresh loaf of 
bread, and use the bread the same as a 
scrubbing brush. When it becomes soiled 
cut off a slice. If the paper is greasy then 
dip the bread in ammonia and roll it into a 
ball; as this becomes soiled, knead it again 
till it gets white, then continue the process. 

TO CLEAN STAINED WALL PA- 
PER. — Fill a bag very tightly with pow- 
dered plaster of paris, tie it on the end of 
a broom handle, and rub the paper with it. 
This is much superior to any other process. 



THE BONY SCALE OF CUTTLE-FISH IS USED FOR TOOTLE POWDER. 



73 



TO PAPER A WALL that has been 
previously kalsomined, brush over every 
part with vinegar and water, or the paper 
will not stick. 

TO REMOVE WALL PAPER.— To re- 
move old wall paper effectually, wet the 
paper all over two or three times a day 
with a damp cloth. When it is quite wet 
it can be easily peeled off. 

If the walls are to be repaired, wash 
them first with soda and water to which a 
few drops of carbolic acid have been 
added, and keep the windows and doors 
open for a few days to air the room. 
Then paper or paint the walls. 

THE CARE OF WATER CANS.— 
Water cans or jugs made of tin will last 
very much longer if turned upside down 
directly they are emptied after rinsing 
with hot water. It is tne few drops re- 
maining at the bottom which rust and 
make the small holes so often found in 
them. 

TO SOFTEN WATER.— When soft 
water is not procurable, always keep pow- 
dered borax on the washstand and throw a 
pinch or two into the water. Califoruian 
borax, sold in small packets, is a very use- 
ful preparation for this purpose. 

TO SOFTEN HARD WATER.— Tie a 
small quantity of oatmeal in a muslin bag 
and leave it in a pitcher of water for about 
three days. Then replenish the bag with 
fresh meal. Orange, lemon or cucumber 
peel have a softening effect upon water. 
Throw the skins into the toilet jug at odd 
times. Another way is to simply boil it 
and leave it exposed to the atmosphere. 
This will purify river water. 

MILK AS A WATER SOFTENER.—. 
Milk is an excellent substitute for soap or 
soda when washing crockery. It softens 
the water and prevents one's hands be- 
coming grained and rough. Allow one tea- 
cupful to a gallon of water. 

A GOOD WHITEWASH.— Put half a 
bushel of lime in a clean, water-tigiit cask 
or tub. Slack it by pouring on boiling wa- 
ter to cover it five inches deep, stirring it 
briskly till thoroughly slacked. When this 
is done, dissolve in water and add two 
pounds of sulphate of zinc and one of com- 
mon salt. These will cause the stuff to 
harden and prevent cracking. A cream 
color may be made by adding to the above 
three pounds of yellow ochre. If to this 
wash glue be added it will cause it to stick 
and not rub off when touched. A half- 
pound of glue will answer for a wash tub 
full. 

TO CLEAN WICKER FURNI- 
TURE. — Wicker tables and chairs can be 
made to look like new by first scrubbing 
them with salt and water; rinse in plenty 
of cold water, then place in the sunlight 
and air to dry. 



TO CLEAN WINDOWS. — A little 
kerosene added to the water with which 
windows are cleaned will make the task 
much easier. It will give them a brilliant 
polish and enable them to be cleaned with- 
out a smear, even when the sun is shining, 
fully on them. 

TO PREVENT FROSTY WINDOWS. 
— Apply a very thin coat of glycerine oa 
both sides of the glass; this will prevent 
any moisture forming thereon in cold 
weather, and will stay until it collects so 
much dust that it cannot be seen through, 
therefore it should be put on very thin. 
Surveyors can use it on their instruments 
in foggy weather and there is no film to- 
obstruct the sight. Glycerine can in this 
way be used anywhere to prevent moisture 
from forming on a surface. 

TO MAKE WINDOV/ GLASS 
SHINE. — If your window glass is lacking 
in brilliancy, clean it with a liquid made 
of alcohol and whiting. A little of this 
mixture will remove specks and impart a 
high lustre to the glass. 

TO MAKE WOOD DURABLE.— 
Wood is made extremely durable and 
weather proof by covering it with hot lin- 
seed-oil varnish, applying several coats, 
each one after the preceding one is dry; 
then paint with the oil colors as re- 
quired. This will take longer to dry than 
the ordinary process of painting. 

TO SCRUB WOODEN ARTICLES.— 
Rinse well, sprinkle with silver sand, soap 
the brush and scrub with the grain of the 
wood. Carefully rinse and dry and stand 
in the open air for a time if possible. If 
it is the pastry-board do not soap it. 

TO SCRUB WOODWORK AND 
FLOORS.— See that all the dust is first 
wiped or swept, otherwise the wood can 
never be properly cleaned ; then begin th& 
scrubbing. Only do a little piece at a 
time, so no unnecessary stretching of the 
arms is required. First wet the wood, rub 
the soap over the scrubbing brush, dip it 
into clean sand and scrub the way of the 
grain. Remoisten the flannel and mop it 
up. Then wring the cloth as tightly as 
possible and wipe dry with it. Let the 
second piece wrap over the first one to 
avoid ugly dark stripes. Always wipe off 
the dash-board. Pastry boards, rolling- 
pins and breadboards must be aired in a 
dry place after scrubbing. When scrub- 
bing tables don't splash the water; it is 
not the quantity but the quality that 
cleanses, and don't forget the legs. 

Rules to observe: Good hot water, 
changed often. Sand and elbow grease. 
Good cloths. Overlap each piece. Dry 
perfectly. Scrub the way of the gram, 

SHEETS. — Sheets with a seam in the 
centre are the best for common use. 
When well worn they can be ripped and 



74 OYSTERS, UNLIKE MUSSELS, ARE ATTACHED WHERE THEY GROW. 



the outer selvedges sewn together. Hem- 
stitched sheets and pillow-cases are pretty, 
but they have a weak place where tue 
threads are drawn and split easily. 

TABLECI-OTHS. — White tablecloths 
must always be used for dinner. Colored 
ones are useful for breakfast and luncheon. 
Always put a double-faced canton flannel 
under the white one. Have two of these, 



and bind them with tape. The table- 
cloths will wear much longer, keep cleaner 
and look richer, besides saving the polish 
on the table from hot disnes. 

TOWELS. — Have plenty of lar^e tow- 
els. The huckaback are the best; they 
keep their color well and do not wet as 
easily as damask ones. Always keep a 
lump of camphor in the linen cupboard. 



OUK ART OF SAILING IS MERELY AN IMITATION OF THE NAUTILUS. 



75 



Toilet Hints 



TOILET HINTS.— It is every woman's 
duty to make herself look as well as pos- 
sible, even if nature has denied her the 
charms of her more envied sisters. This 
is only a natural vanity, for we all know 
the difference good looks make in our lives, 
and so every woman should study to im- 
prove herself. 

One of the principal standards of beauty 
is a good complexion, and its care s-iould 
be made a consideration. 

Positive ugliness can be compensated by 
the possession of a beautiful skin. How- 
ever, let it be remembered that every skin 
is of a different texture, and the same 
treatment will not suit all. 

For instance, tincture of benzoin, an ex- 
cellent cosmetic, is detrimental to oily 
skins. 

Rose water and glycerine, so soothing to 
some skins, parch up others and makes 
them dry and yellow. 

The hair, hands, nails and other parts of 
the body must not be neglected. 

The following hints will help to teach 
many how to improve and preserve their 
looks, much care having been taken in tne 
selection of the articles, and they have 
all received the approval of experienced 
persons in this branch. 

BRUSHES.— A good brush is known by 
its long and thickly set bristles. Carefully 
brush the hair twice a day for five minutes 
at the time. This is very necessary as the 
hair attracts dirt and dust which requires 
constant care to r>^move. Brushing toe 
hair strengthens and keeps it in good con- 
dition. 

COMBS. — Cheap combs never have 
smooth teeth and will not pass easily 
through the hair, therefore they will do 
much damage in the way of breaking it. 
Never use a comb that has some of the 
teeth missing, for it cannot be run through 
the hair wilhout breaking some of the 
hairs and dragging them out by the roots. 

ALMOND OIL is beneficial to a dry 
skin after washing. Very little soap 
fehould be used on a dry skin. 

CARE OF THE ARMS.— They should 
be washed from the armpits down each 
night in hot water with a teaspoonful of 
ammonia to the quart, using good soap, 
and friction afterwards with a towel. 
Exercise them by bringing together at full 
length above the head for five minutes at 
the time whenever convenient. Do not 
use pomade to whiten the aims. Squeeze 



the juice of three lemons into a pint of hot 
milk; wash the arms clean and sponge 
them with this. When nearly dry wash 
off with warm water and soap. Repeat 
this as often as possible for days until the 
skin whitens. The lemon and milk may 
be kept covered in a cool place and used 
several times, as it is better for standing. 

RED ARMS.— This can be very 
much reduced if every night and mornmg- 
the skin is well rubbed with a mixture of 
almond paste and honey. All almond 
preparations are excellent for keeping th& 
skin white; the honey makes it soft and 
prevents the weather having a harmful in- 
fluence on it. 

TO WHTTEN THE ARMS AND 
NECK. — A very good lotion may be made 
by mixing together three teaspoonfuls of 
powdered borax, three-quarters of an ounce 
of glycerine and twelve ounces of elder- 
flower water. Some ladies' arms are of a 
very good shape, but so red that it is 
alniost impossible to wear short sleeves in 
their evening dresses. The above lotion 
will be found excellent to remedy this, if 
used regularly each time the arms are 
washed. 

Oatmeal water should be used for this 
purpose and to make the process still more 
successful add an equal quantity of starch 
to the oatmeal water. This is rather 
troublesome as it must be prepared fresh 
everv day, but if patience is exercised a 
very good effect will be obtained. Some 
people's hands very quickly become rough 
and red at the least change of weather. 
Oatmeal water is very good to whiten and 
soften them with. 

A REMEDY FOR BALDNESS. — 
This is warranted to make hair grow on 
the most obstinate bare scalp. Fill a pint 
bottle nearly full of pure alcohol, and add 
all the fresh pine-wood shavings it will 
hold. As the wood absorbs the alcohol, 
many shavings can be inserted. Cork the 
bottle carefully and let it stand for fev- 
eral days, shaking at times. After about a 
week or ton days filter the fluid through 
a fine muslin or porous paper and it will be 
as clear as crystal. Add a few drops of 
glycerine, also a little perfume if desired. 
Use this tonic night and morning, rubbing 
it well into the scalp and saturate the hair 
witli it at least once a day. 

BLACKHEADS. — The simplest and 
surest remedy for these is to bathe one's 
face every night with very hot water, dry 



76 



LOBSTERS AXD CRABS CIIAXGi; THEIR SHELLS ANNUALLY, 



•with a soft towel and then gently rub in 
some cold crcair.. Jn the morning wash 
the face well with hot water and soap, and 
remove all the soapsuds with plenty of 
tepid water. 

BLUSHING.— This is largely a mat- 
ter of health, and as the nervous system 
strengthens so the trouble will lessen. 
Mingle in general society as much as pos- 
sible and forget oneself as far as possible. 

FOR SWEET BREATH.— Sometimes 
a heavy cold or other little ailment will 
affect the breath. To correct this, a mix- 
ture of myrrh and tincture of camphor may 
be used. Put a few drops of each in a 
glass of water and use to rinse the mouth. 

A COMPLEXION CLEARER.— For 
making th? complexion clear and bright, 
stir two ti^aspoonfuls of flour of sulpbur 
into half a pint of new milk. Let stand 
for a while, and then rub the face over 
■with it a rihort time before washing. 

DANDRUFF. — Dandruff is very con- 
tagious and may be contracted in many 
ways. Brushes and combs, padaed chairs, 
and hats and cans are often the means of 
conveying the infection. »Treat care should 
always be taken to keep the scalp scru- 
pulously clean. 

Treatment: Half an ounce of carbonate 
of potash, one ounce of alcohol, water 
enough to make eight ounces. Mix and 
use a little at the time. Rub this well 
into the S'''alp until it forms a lather, then 
wash it off in clear water. 

An excellent wash is one ounce of borax, 
half an ounce of camphor. Powder both 
Ter/ fine and dissolve thr-m in one quart of 
boiling water. Use when cold, dampen the 
hair frequently with it. It cleanses, beau- 
tifies and preserves the color. Do not 
miad if the jamphor does not all dissolve. 

CURE FOR DANDRDFF.— Beat up 
on egg, yolk and white together, and rub it 
well into the roots of the hair; rinse in 
plenty of warm water, renewing the water 
untU all tlie egg has disappeared. Comb 
the hair, wipe and dry quickly. This 
should be repeated once a week. At night 
dip the brush in a saucer of Florida water 
or bay runt and brush the haii well with it. 

ACHING EYES.— Often the glare of 
the summer light will cause the eyes to 
have an uncomfortable, prickly sensation. 
Great relief will be found bj bathing them 
twice or three times a day with soft water 
to which is added a pinch of salt. If they 
ache, close the eyelids ind rub gentl.v with 
the finger for five or ten minutes. Simple 
rose water is also another excellent appli- 
cation when the eves feel hot and inflamed. 
Washir.g them night and morning in hot 
water is a wonderful tonic. 

TO DRY THE EYES.— Dry them al- 
ways with a soft towel, wiping inward 
towards the nose, and never outward, as 



this has a tendency to forjti crow's-feet. 
Be careful not to press down the oyeball, 
as when the lens of tl;c eye is flattened it 
■.s a sign of approaching old age. 

FLABBINESS UNDER THE EYES. 
— To prevent or eradicate these unpleas- 
ant reminders of the passing years, dab 
tiiem twice a day with a soft linen dipped 
in very hot water; this will remove all the 
puffiness as well as the surrounding 
crow's-feet. 

A WASH FOR WEAK EYES.— Bathe 
tliem several times a day until relieved 
with a wash made fiom witch hazel and 
camphor water. 

EYEBROWS, WHAT THEY DE- 
NOTE. — Eyebrows chat are wide apart 
denote a frank, generous, unsuspicious and 
impulsive nature. 

When they meet the owr er's tempera^ 
ment is ardent, jealous and suspicious. 

Eyebrows, elevated at starting and con- 
tinuing in long, sweeping lines over the 
eyes, with a downward tendency, indicate 
artistic feeling. 

Straight eyebrows denote great deter- 
mination and will power. 

Those which begin rather strongly and 
terminate abruptly without passing beyond 
the eyes show an impatient and irascible 
nature. 

Slightly arched eyebrows i-how sensitive- 
ness and tenderness. 

Eyebrows, straight at the beginning 
and rather arched at the temples, show 
firmness of purpose and kindness of heart. 

Eyebrows of people utterly devoid ot 
mathematical power are raised at the ter- 
mination, leaving a a^ ide space between 
them and the corners of the eyes. 

If they are close to the eyes at the end, 
mathematical talent may be safely as» 
bumed. 

Eyebrows of the same color as the hair 
show constancy, firmi ess and resolution. 

If lighter than tiie hair, indecision and 
weakness. 

If darker .han the hair, »n ardent, pas- 
sionate and inconstant disposition. 

The nearer the eyebrows are to the eyes 
the firmer is the character, while the more 
remote the more volatile and flighty is the^ 
nature of their owner. 

EYEBROWS.— Good, defined eyebrows 
are a great improvement to every woman's 
appearance. Those who have weak, thin 
ones will strengthen and improve their 
growth by using, three times a day, a 
tonic made up of ten grains of sulphate of 
quinine and two ounces of alcohol. Cocoa- 
nut oil and vaseline are also good, but 
must only be used at night. Eyebrows 
should be cared for as particularly as the 
hair and be carefully smoothed every day. 

THIN EYEBROWS.— When they are 
thin stimulate them by the constant appli- 



THERE ARE TEN SPECIES OF SCORPION'S; THEIR BITE IS POISONOUS. 77 



cation of a mixture of cocoa butter and 
almond oil. If too thick or they grow ir- 
regularly, the defect may be remedied by 
removing some hairs by electrolysis. 

TO DARKEN EYEBROWS AND 
LASHES. — Take three-quarters of an 
ounce of almond oil, a quarter of an 
ounce or nutgalls, a quarter of a drachm 
of ammonia salt, mix and add six drops 
of vinegar. Apply very carefully with i 
camel's hair brush, taking care not to let 
the liquid touch the skin or get into the 
eyes. 

SCURF IN THE EYEBROWS.— This 

is sometimes caused by too great dryness 
of the skin. Rub in hazeliue at night. 
This will cure it. 

THE EYELASHES.— The eyelashes 
should never be clipped on adults, as it is 
apt to make them short and stubby. Only 
on children should this be adopted and 
then very carefully. If the eyelashes are 
inclined to come out, bathe them every 
morning in salt water. Do not rub them, 
las they are easily torn out by the roots. 
If clotted together apply sweet or almond 
oil or vaseline before retiring. 

RED EYELIDS.— Bathe them several 
times a day with a simple lotion made of 
eight grains of sulphate of zinc, one 
drachm of binum opii and eight ounces of 
rose water. 

Never expose them to a strong light or 
strain them by reading by gaslight or at 
any time, very small print. 

To prevent the eyelids becoming red 
bathe them night and morning with warm 
boracic lotion. The first lotion must only 
be used after the eyelids have become red. 

FACIAL MASSAGE.— Facial massage 
movements must he done quickly and with 
a light- firm touch. Avoid too much fric- 
tion on the cheeks unless plenty of super- 
fluous fat is to be removed and do not 
massage the face more than twice or 
thrice a week. 

MOVEAIENTS-CHEEKS. — Circular 
friction with tips of the fingers. 

FOREHEAD.— Up and down movement 
•with the first finger of each hand. 

LIPS.— Pinch with the thumb and first 
finger. 

CHIN.— Place the first finger of each 
hand, tip to tip, in the centre of the chin, 
and the thumb underneath the chin, tip to 
tip, and make long strokes towards the 
ears. 

NECESSARY ARTICLES FOR MAS- 
SAGING. — Good mild soap, eau de co- 
logne or boiled vinegar for douching the 
face; lily cream or lanoline for massage; 
powder, chamois leather, sponge and soft 
towels for drying. 



HOW TO PROCBED.-Sponge the 
face with hot water and soap, dry, then 
smear some of the cream on the face and 
massage thoroughly with the tips of the 
fingers; wash off the cream with clean 
hot water; now sponge the face for about 
five minutes with very cold water contain- 
ing a little eau de cologne and dry well. 
Apply a little powder with the chamois 
and wipe it off with a cleaner piece. 

FACE POWDER.— Powder should be 
used with great discretion, it is very bad 
for the skin to make a constant use of 
face powder, but when it is necessary it 
should be put on with a light hand and in 
fin artistic manner. The puff should not 
be dipped right into the powder, so that it 
comes out of the box full of it; a very 
small quantity is all that is necessary, and 
the puff must not be wiped on the skin, 
only just touch it in small, quick taps. 
Care should be taken not to touch the eye- 
brows or eyelashes with the powder, and 
wipe off the lips after. 

FOR A SHINY FACE.-R'ub well af- 
ter washing with a soft chamois leather. 

FOR SMALL SPOTS ON THE 
FACE.— Have an ointment made of half 
an ounce of glycerine of borax and an 
ounce and a half of oxide of zinc oint- 
ment. Rub a small quantity of this over 
the spots after washing the face at bed- 
time. In the morning wash with warm 
water, rinse well with cold water and 
wipe over with a homemade lotion made 
as follows: In half a pint of elderflower 
water add, drop by drop, stirring all the 
time, two drachms of simple tincture of 
benzoin; when well mixed add half an 
ounce of cologne water and half a tea- 
spoonful of powdered borax which has 
been dissolved in a very little hot water. 
This lotion may be used during the day 
instead of water. 

DAMP FEET.— Never keep on a pair 
of stockings which have become damp 
through perspiration. Those that suffer 
from constantly damp feet should put a 
tablespoonful of spirits of camphor into 
their footbath. This is said to have a 
tonic and cleansing effect, and also helps 
to prevent taking cold from damp. 

TO PREVENT TENDER FEET IN 
HOT WEATHER.— Soak them twice a 
day in tepid water in which powdered 
alum has been dissolved, a dessertspoon- 
ful to each pint of water. This hardens 
the feet. 

TIRED FEET.— When the feet are 
very tired from much standing, a warm 
footbath with an ounce of sea salt in it 
will be found most restful. Paddle the 
feet in this until it begins to cool, then 
iry them with a rough towel. Put on 
clean stockings and you will be as re- 
freshed as if you had indulged in a nap« 



78 REPTILES BECOME TORPID "WHEN THE TEMPERATURE IS BELOW 40' 



FRECKLES; THEIR CAUSE AND 
CURE.— Freckles arise from exposure to 
the summer sun and air. Fair persons, 
and especially those with red hair, are 
particularly liable to their development. 
Buttermilk and other remedies for sun- 
burn are useful for summer freckles. 

Carrots are said to be a specific for 
freckles, so freckled girls should make a 
point of eating plenty of them when in 
season. 

To disperse them, take one ounce of 
lemon juice, a quarter of a drachm of pow- 
dered borax and half a drachm of sugar, 
Mix, let stand a few days. Then use oc- 
casionally. 

FRECKLES.— The parsley cure is con- 
sidered very good. Put some fresh parsley 
in a basin and throw over sufficient boiling 
water to cover it. Let it stand till cold, 
then strain the water and bathe the face 
with it two or three times a day, and the 
freckles will soon disappear. 

FRECKLES — TO REMOVE. — Dis- 
solve in half an ounce of lemon juice one 
ounce of Venice soap, add a quarter of an 
ounce each of oil of bitter almonds and de- 
liquated oil of tartar. Place this mixture 
in the sun till it acquires the consistency 
of ointment. Theu add three drops of the 
oil of rhodium and keep for use. Apply it 
by washing the affected parts at night 
with elderflower water, then put on the 
ointment. In the morning wash plentifully 
with rose water. An ointment composed 
of ten grains of sulphate of zinc and half 
an ounce of elderflower water rubbed on 
the face at night is effacacious; apply this 
only to the freckled parts, and wash off in 
the morning with warm soap and water, 
then apply a lotion made by mixing fifteen 
grains of citric acid with five ounces of 
infusion of roses. 

SUMMER FRECKLES.— These may 
generally be removed by the nightly appli- 
cation of the following ointment: Four 
ounces of oil of citron and two ounces of 
pure white wax melted over a gentle heat. 

Great care must be observed after using 
any freckle remover, for the skin is more 
susceptible to the wind and sun, and there- 
fore a new crop is likely to appear. 

TENDER GUMS.— If the gums are 
tender paint them with a camel's hair 
brush dipped in lemon juice. Be careful 
not to let it touch the teeth. 

FOR BRITTLE HAIR.— If the hair 
gets dry and rough, and is inclined to split 
at the ends, rub a little olive oil iuto the 
scalp once a week. 

TO CLEANSE THE HAIR.— This also 
strengthens it. Make an infusion of rose- 
mary the same way tea Is made; make it 
quite strong, and to it add, while in the 
pot, a teaspoonful of honey and a piece of 



common washing soda the size of a hazel 
nut. To every pint add a wineglassful of 
rum. This will keep. Apply with flannel 
or sponge when cold, and rub well into the 
roots as often as possible. 

CUTTING THE HAIR.— It is very 
beneficial to clip the ends of the hair 
once a month after it has been well 
brushed, und then singe. 

TO KEEP THE HAIR IN CURL.— 

Dissolve four ounces of gum arable in 
eight ounces of water. Strain this through 
muslin and gradually drop enough cologne 
or lavender water into the clear liquid 
merely to keep it from spoiling. Moisten 
the hair with this before putting it up 
in curling papers. 

CURLING FLUID.— Take one ounce 
of borax, one drachm of gum arable, one 
pint of hot water and two tablespoonfuls 
of camphor, adding this after the other 
ingredients are dissolved, and slightly 
moisten the hair before curling. Another 
one is to mix twelve grains of carbonate 
of potash with a pint of warm soap and 
water; moisten the hair with this before 
curling. 

A CURLING WATER.— A very good 
and clear one is madj as follows: Place 
thii'ty crushed quince seeds to simmer 
for a couple of hours in a pint of distilled 
water, carefully strain and put aside. 
To this add a gill of alcohol, refined 
spirits of wine or brandy, a teaspoonful 
of alum water and an equal quantity 
of rose water or eau de cologne to per- 
fume it. 

TO DRESS THE HAIR.— To suit a 
long, narrow face, the hair should be 
dressed round and show a coil or so 
from the side behind the eai's; also try 
to fill up the nape of the neck as much as 
possible. 

FOR A ROUND FACE narrow dress- 
ings are becoming and can be taken well 
down the neck. 

FOR A BROAD FACE narrow dress- 
ings are best, keeping them somewhat 
high. 

FOR A SHARP FEATURED PACE 
avoid dressing the hair right at the top 
cf the back of the crown in a line with 
the nose, as this accentuates the severe 
outlines. Dress the hair low down or 
else quite on the crown top to meet the 
fringe. 

VERY TALL PEOPLE should dress 
the hair rather low and decidedly round. 

VERY SHORT PEOPLE can have 
their hair dressed high, as it gives addition 
to their stature. 

White hair is always prettier brushed 
off from the forehead and dressed with 
much care. 



THE CEANIUM OF A LARGE CROCODILE WILL ONLY ADMIT THE THUMB. 79 



DRYING THE HAIR.— In drying the 
hair, if possible sit in the sun and let 
it be fanned until quite dry. If towels 
are used they should be soft and heated. 

CARE OF FALSE HAIR.— Those who 
wear false hair must not forget that 
it requires as much attention as real 
hair. The best way of cleansing switches 
and other false pieces is to wash them 
in hot water softened with household am- 
monia. Soap will be necessary if the 
hair is very dirty; then sulphur soap is 
the best. Then dip the switch in a fresh 
basin of water, changing it until all the 
soap is rinsed out, and shake up and down 
before the fire until quite dry, when it 
will be frizzy and soft, the same as na- 
tural hair. Comb the tangles out care- 
fully. 

WEARING OF FALSE HAIR.— Do 
not wear the same switch year after 
year, as it loses its brightness and should 
be renewed about every two years. Be- 
sides, our own hair changes its color as 
we grow older, and the false piece must 
always match it, for nothing looks uglier 
than seeing a dark brown switch or front 
mixed with hair turning gray. 

PREMATURE GREYNESS.— To ar- 
rest the progress of the silver threads 
apply violet oil in the night and a tonic 
of jaborandi in the morning. Pour a few 
drops of the oil on a small brush and 
streak the hair where it is losing color. 
The next morning dip a sponge into a 
saucer containing a tablespoonful of the 
tonic and rub well into the scalp. This 
counteracts the greasiness of the oil and 
will clean and stimulate the hair. 

Both camomile flowers or a decoction 
of box leaves are recommended for the 
same purpose. 

TO USE HOT IRONS ON THE 
HAIR. — Always first try them on a piece 
of_ paper before putting them on the 
hair. Repeated use of the irons injures 
and breaks the hair, perhaps not at first, 
but it is when the same wave is repeated- 
ly pinched with the tongs that the mis- 
. chief is begun. 

HAIR DYES.— These dyes have all 
been thoroughly tested and are warranted 
to be perfectly harmless either to the 
hair or skin. 

No. 1. BLEACHING HAIR.— Wasa 
and dry the hair thoroughly, then with a 
toothbrush apply a mixture of three table- 
spoonfuls of peroxide to one teaspoonful 
of household ammonia. Dry the hair 
well before applying a second application, 
and continue until the desired shade is 
©btained. 

No. 2. TITIAN RED.— First wash the 
hair well, and if dark bleach it with the 
above bleaching until light; when dry 
use the following: Mix half an ounce 



of permanganate of potash in a pint of 
tepid water and apply it to the hair with 
a toothbrush; l?t it dry well before ap- 
plying another coat. Rub off any of the 
dye from the scalp or skin with vase- 
line. 

No. 3. BLACK OR BROWN.— Dis- 
solve half an ounce of pyrogalic acid In 
half an ounce of alcohol, add as much 
cold water as alcohol, and after the hair 
is washed and dried apply this with a 
toothbrush and when dry apply the fol- 
lowing No. 2: 

No. 2. — Put half an ounce of pulverized 
bluestone in a quart of cold water and 
when this is dissolved add half a pint 
of household ammonia and apply it the 
same as the first. For browner hair use 
more water. 

TO MAKE THE HAIR GROW.— 
This is an excellent lotion and cures the 
tendency to dandruff. Use it two or three 
times a week: Two drachms of canthar- 
ides vinegar, one ounce of spirit of rose- 
mary, half a teaspoonful of powdered 
borax, dissolved in a little hot water, and 
five ounces of distilled water. Have the 
hair shampooed before beginning to use 
the lotion. 

TO LIGHTEN THE HAIR.— To give 
the hair a bright sunny tint wash it in 
light wine or beer; this is better than 
peroxide of hydrogen, for although this 
has the effect still it eventually makes 
the hair brittle and impoverishes it in 
time. 

SUPERFLUOUS HAIR ON THE 
FACE. — All animal fats have a tendency 
to make the hair grow on the face, there- 
fore they should never be used; these in- 
clude vaseline, creams and oils; bayrum 
is also injurious. When glycerine is used 
it must be greatly diluted with rose water. 

HAIR TONIC— Tincture of canthar- 
ides, castor oil, liquid ammonia of each 
four drachms, spirits of rosemary two 
drachms and four ounces «f rose water. 
This was tried by a traveller after a 
severe illness in Africa, which left him 
almost bald, and in a few weeks the old 
fever hairs fell out; the new ones became 
\isible, and after a short time his hair 
was thicker than ever. It has never 
been known to fail. 

A WASH FOR FAIR HAIR.— One 
teaspoonful of borax and the same quan- 
tity of salt; two ounces each of spirits 
of wine and ammonia water, two drachms 
of tincture of cantharides and four ounces 
each of rose water and distilled water. 
If the hair is naturally dry add a little 
almond oil. 

No. 2. ANOTHER RECIPE.— Take 
one ounce of borax and half an ounce 
of camphor, dissolve both in one quart 
of boiling water; use when cool. 



80 



VEXOMOUS SNAKES AKE SLOW IN DOING MISCHIEF. 



ROSEMARY HAIR WASH.— Stew 
half a pound of rosemary free of stalks 
\ery gently for two hours in a pint of 
•water. Strain when cold, then add a 
gill of rum and an ounce of tincture of 
cantharides. Keep well corked. This is 
excellent for weak or falling hair. 

WASHING THE HAIR.— Some neg- 
lect washing their hair, while others 
wash it too often. This is apt to make 
the hair coarse. Once a month is quite 
sufficient, unless the hair is very fair, 
then it requires washing or shampooing 
a little oftener. Lather the hair well, 
then rinse it first with warm water and 
then with cold. Be careful that no soap 
be left on the hair, for the slightest bit 
will create a sticky gum difficult to re- 
move. One of the best hair washes is 
made from the yolks of three eggs beaten 
up in a pint of water. This makes the 
hair soft and glossy. 

WEAK AND BRITTLE HAIR.— 
Have the head shampooed and use the 
following lotion: One ounce of spirit of 
rosemary, half an ounce of tincture of 
quillaya, iwo drachms of cantharides vine- 
gar and sis ounces of rose water. Divide 
the hair and rub the lotion into the scalp 
three times a week for the first fortnight, 
then use it twice a week for some little 
time. No preparation will make the hair 
thicker after a few applications, but it 
will cease to fall in such quantities; then 
by degrees the new hair will sprout strong- 
er than the present ones. Have the ends 
cut from time to time to strengthen the 
growth. 

WHY THE HAIR FALLS OUT.— The 
hair falls out in spring because it has 
reached its maturity. It dies, then falls 
«ut, but is replaced by new ones. No 
one can make the hair grow longer than 
it will naturally, no more than they can 
increase their height after they have 
stopped gi-owing. Thickness can often be 
obtained, but at the expense of the length. 
To strengthen it cut the ragged ends oft 
about an inch every now and then. Use 
a soft bristle brush and a coarse, blunt 
comb; a sharp one will split and loosen 
the hair. 

Pine tooth combs irritate the scalp and 
produce dandruff. 

A HOME SHAMPOO.— A shampoo 
every second or fourth week is absolutely 
necessary for those who are troubled with 
dandruff. The shampoo requires a care- 
ful selection of soap, castile or any pure, 
uuscented soap will do. Borax and wa- 
ter or a mixture of egg yolks and lime 
water will make a good lather and soothe 
the scalp. Make a lather with plenty 
of warm water and rub it well into the 
scalp, either with the fingers or a mod- 
erately stiff, long haired brush. After 
the head is thoroughly cleansed wash off 



the lather with warm water, and if prac- 
ticable, use alternate douches of warm and 
cold water. Then dry the hair thoroughly 
with a good bath towel. The addition of 
one teaspoonful of vinegar to a quart of 
water in which the head is washed after 
shampooing will remove any excess of 
alkali in the soap remaining in the hair, 
and will render the hair soft. Do not 
dress the hair till it is perfectly dry, or 
it will become harsh and brittle. Part 
the hair and rub the scalp, repeating the 
operation till all the hair is perfectly dry. 
A small amount of some soothing salve 
on the scalp after the drying ia beneficial. 

SHAMPOOING MIXTURE. — Two 

tablespoonfuls of pure soft soap dissolved 
in one-half pint of boiling water. When 
cold add the juice of one lemon and a 
few drops of any pure scent. Shake well 
before using. 

CLEANING HANDS.— Don't depend 
entirely upon soap and water for cleaning 
the hands. Have a small brush to scrub 
them, a cake of pumice stone to remove 
stains and some borax to whiten them. 
Dirty lines will appear if the bauds are 
not carefully cleansed. Anoint them every 
night with equal quantities of glycerine 
and lemon juice; this whitens and re- 
moves the lines. 

FINGER STAINS.— These can be gen- 
crally removed with lemon juice, but 
when the^ are under the nails use an 
orange wood stick. For ink stained fin- 
gers rub them with the sulphur end of 
a match. Wash the hands in water to 
which a little oatmeal has been added. 
Never rub soap on finger stains of any 
kind. 

For tar stains use the outside peel of 
a freshly-cut lemon; rub till the spot be- 
comes soft, then wash in warm water. 

CHAPPED HANDS.— These are often 
caused by not properly drying the hands 
after washing, or else from using hard 
water. If rain water is unobtainable a 
pinch of Dorax in the water will soften 
it. 

Use warm water and very good soap, 
and in drying the hands take each finger 
separately and dry well between every 
one. Then rub the hands over once a 
day with a little lemon and rub a little 
cold cream on twice a week before going 
to bed, and in this way there will be 
little fear of the skin becoming cnapped 
and sore. 

DAMP HANDS. — Wash once a day in 
water in which has been added a little 
boracic acid. Dry thoroughly and powder 
with fuller's earth. 

PERSPIRING HANDS.— A little alum 
in the water used for washing perspir- 
ing hands and feet will alleviate unpleas- 
I antness. 



THERE ARE 1,000 SPECIES OF THE PLY. 



81 



If the perspiration of tlie hands and 
face is excessive apply the following lotion 
several times a day. It is perfectly harm- 
less: Fifteen grains tannic acid and fif- 
teen drops simple tincture of benzoin. Dis- 
solve both in one ounce of rectified spirits 
cf wine, add ten drops essential oil of 
lavender and fill up an eight ounce bottle 
with plain distilled water. Hard water 
will turn the lotion black. This tones 
the skin. 

TO KEEP THE HANDS SMOOTH. 

— Keep a basin of oatmeal on the wash- 
stand and after washing the hands dry 
them in the meal. The skin will be 
kept white and smooth and less liable 
to chap by this process. 

TO SOFTEN THE HANDS.— Melt 

thoroughly a quarter of a pound of mutton 
fat, half an ounce of camphor gum, and 
half an ounce of glycerine. Store in a 
covered pot. Rub the hands well with this 
mixture every night. 

FOR DISTRESSINGLY RED 
HANDS. — Apply nightly under gloves, 
equal parts of glycerine, lemon juice and 
rose water. Daily applications of lemon 
juice are sure to whiten the hands. Tight 
sleeves and tight finger rings are a fre- 
quent source of red hands; the cause 
should therefore be removed. Camphor ice 
is very soothing to the hands, and gloves 
worn at night increase the softening effect; 
always cut holes in the palms of these to 
allow ventilation. 

SUNBURNED HANDS— TO PRE- 
YENT. — Keep a jug of oatmeal gruel on 
the wash stand, and use it for washing the 
hands. Dry thoroughly, rub with a piece 
of lemon, and at night apply glycerine and 
rose water, half an ounce of the former to 
one ounce of the latter, adding a little 
lemon juice, and wear a pair of loose 
gloves. Make the gruel by boiling equal 
quantities of oatmeal and powdered starch 
in sufficient water to make a thin gruel. 
This should be made fresh every other day. 

CRACKED LIPS.— Lips are inclined to 
crack when the weather is cold and frosty, 
Tiuless they are kept very dry. Mix some 
honey and glycerine in equal proportions. 
Bathe the lips with warm boracic lotion 
and water, then apply the honey and glyc- 
erine. Put on a very little just before 
going out in the cold. When the lips are 
very dry this preparation will also keep 
them moist. Never moisten the lips with 
the tongue; it looks ugly, and is bad for 
them. 

RED LIPS. — Some people naturally 
have pale lips, but when this is the ease 
they must not bite them in order to makn 
them look red. This habit may have the 
desired effect for a time, but it is onlv 
-transitory, and biting the lips very soon 



makes them thick and coarse, and also in- 
clines them to chap and get sore. Besides 
it keeps the lips wet, which is in itself very- 
bad. 

FOR MOTH PATCHES.— Apply the 
following every night before going to bed. 
Two grams each of oxide of zinc and car- 
Donate of magnesia, four grams of gly- 
cerine, four grams of kaolin, and ten 
grams of lanoline. In the morning wash 
off with tepid water and pure soap. Re- 
peat until a cure is affected. 

MOLES. — These vary in character, and 
should be treated by a skilled dermatolo- 
gist, or physician. Strong acids may re- 
move, but they cannot be recommended, 
as great care must be taken in using 
them. 

MOUTH WASHES.— People should 
wash out their mouths once or twice a day 
with an antiseptic solution to prevent any 
illness; it prevents colds and other more 
serious complaints; for many of the com- 
mon throat and lung troubles arise from 
the lodgment of disease microbes withiu 
the mucous membranes of the mouth. 
Antiseptics will kill these germs, one of 
the best being a very weak solution of 
carbolic acid, gargled and held in the 
mouth for a moment or two. The mouth 
will feel much cleaner after this treatment. 

A STRENGTHENING MOUTH 
WASH. — This strengthens and hardens 
the gums and arrests decay of the teeth. 
Two drachms each of eau de cologne, 
tincture of myrrh and powdered borax, 
a quarter of a pint -of hot water. Bottle 
for use, adding the eau de cologne when 
cold. A few drops used on the tooth 
brush or a little in the water to rinse the 
mouth will be found excellent. 

MANICURING. — Always dry the 
hands thoroughly after washing and use 
a soft towel. 

THE NAILS.— Nails, to be beautiful 
should be pink in color, and have a white 
crescent at the root. Even if the nails 
are naturally beautiful, they require care- 
ful attention to keep them so. The ugli- 
est nails may be much improved by a 
little care. The nails should be cut regu- 
larly once a week with nail scissors; on 
no account try to cut them with other 
kinds or with blunt scissors, or the nails 
will be broken and ruined. Shape the 
nails to correspond with the tips of the 
fingers; as a rule fingers are oval at the 
tips and the nails should be cut to that 
shape. Never clean the nails with any 
sharp instrument. 

TO MANICURE THE NAILS.— A 
few manicure implements are all that 
are necessary to manicure the nails with, 
such as curved scissors to cut off any uailrs 
or hangnails and dry skin; small file, an 



82 



INSECTS LAY FROM TWO EGGS TO MANY MILLIONS A YEAR. 



orange stick and some sandpaper to 
smooth the nails with. When the nails 
are inclined to be brittle, rub on a little 
salve. A small chamois polisher and a 
box of manicure powder for polishing. If 
the nails are rubbed with lemon-juice 
every day, it will discourage the ugly 
growth of skin over them. 

The operation of manicuring consists in 
holding the tips of the fingers in hot soap 
suds for a few moments. Take the orange 
stick and push back the cuticle, which 
must never be cut. Trim and sandpaper the 
nails to shape them, keeping them a deli- 
cate oval, never a point, and if a high 
polish is desired, put on some pink salve, 
then the powder and polish; repeat this 
once more, then wash the hands. After 
they are well dried rub the nails witli a 
dry polisher having no powder on it. 

NAIL POWDER.— Mix in a mortar 
eight ounces of silicon, two ounces of oxide 
of zinc, one ounce of infusorial earth and 
enough lake to color pale pink. Sift 
through a fine sieve. 

PINK SALVE.— Melt in a hot water 
bath, one and a half ounces of spermaceti, 
nine drachms of white wax, two ounces 
alkanet root and twelve ounces of oil of 
almonds. Beat until nearly cold, then 
add one drachm of attar of roses. 

BRITTLE NAILS. — Housekeepers 
whose nails break easily should never 
stir anything on the hot stove without 
slipping" on a loose glove. The dry heat 
from the fire makes the nails brittle. 

WEAK NAILS.— Weakness of the nails 
often causes them to break and split. 
These should be cut with well sharpened 
scissors but never before they have first 
been soaked in warm water. The brit- 
tleness may be lessened by rubbing al- 
mond oil thoroughly into the nails and 
finger ends before retiring. A teaspoon- 
ful of lemon juice in a cupful of tepid 
water whitens and makes the nails supple 
and more easy to polish. 

TO WHITEN THE FINGER-NAILS. 

— Cleanse well with white soap; then dip 
the fingers into a mixture made of two 
drachms of diluted sulphuric acid; one 
drachm tincture of myrrh, and four ounces 
of distilled water. 

BROWN NECK MARK.— The real 
cause of this is the dress collar chafing 
against the skin, and the brown mark on 
the neck shows distinctly should a low 
dress be worn. 

The dress collar should never be made 
too tight and should always be lined with 
some soft white silk. 

Make a mixture of equal parts of lemon- 
juice, lime-water and Jamaica rum. or 
lemon-juice and milk will be almost 



equally good, and rub this on every night 
and morning after washing. 

PASTE FOR WHITENING THE 
NECK. — Equal parts of honey, powdered 
almonds and olive-oil and the yolks of 
three eggs to each quarter of a pound of 
the mixture. Spread on a piece of soft 
linen rag; tie round the neck at night and 
keep on till morning. 

RED NOSES.— These arise from vari- 
ous causes. Tight lacing sometimes, in- 
digestion at others. Oftentimes the gen- 
eral health is entirely ruined from the 
reprehensible habit of tight lacing, a red 
ncse being one of the least. When the 
nose is very burning and hot it can be 
considerably relieved by bathing it in very 
hot water and then applying a cooling 
lotion made up of one quart of orange 
flower water, six ounces of glycerine and 
one ounce of borax. Use it several times 
a day. Eat warming food, such as fat 
meat, butter, or else take cod liver oil. 
Have plenty of exercise, do not sit near 
the fire and wear flannel next to the skin. 
If the nose reddens directly after meals 
then the trouble arises from indigestion. 
Be careful of the diet; no new bread, crust 
puddings or potatoes being taken. Tho 
lood must be well masticated and eaten 
very slowly. It must not be taken after 
any active exercise or work. 

Always rest quietly about a quarter 
of an hour before eating. Rest a'so fOF 
a short time after a meal, if oniy for 
half an hour. Do not powder the nose, 
it will make it even more conspicuous; 
it does not cure it, but only conceals the 
redness. 

Another remedy is to paint the nose at 
night with a lotion made of simple tinc- 
ture of benzoin two ounces, half a spoon- 
ful of borax, three ounces of rose water 
and three ounces of cold water. 

Be sure and have the best quality of 
simple tincture of benzoin; the compound 
mixture is harmful to the skin and must 
never be used. 

PERSPIRATION UNDER THE 
ARMS. — For this unpleasantness there is 
nothing better to bathe them with than 
boracic lotion, which acts as a mild dis- 
infectant and removes the faint odor that 
always arises from this perspiration. Af- 
terwards powder over freely with boracio 
powder and starch mixed together in equal 
parts. 

Washable dress shields should be worn 
and these changed frtquently and as reg- 
ularly as any other part of ttie attire 
worn next to the skin. 

FOR A GREASY SKIN.— Wash the 
face daily with tepid water and a good 
toilet soap. Dry thoroughly and then 
rub with toi'et oatmtal mixed to a paste 
with rose water. Rub this well on the 



A SWAEM OF BEES CONTAINS FROM 10,000 TO 20,000. 



83 



face, massaging till the paste falls off 
in a dry powder; dust the powder off 
with a soft towel. 

Another way. — Pour half a pint 
of white wine vinegar upon one ounce of 
dried rose leaves aid let stand for a 
week; strain and add half a pint of rose 
water to the liquid. Either dab the face 
with it pure or put a tablespoonful to 
a cupful of water. 

OATMEAL FOR THE SKIN.— Thia 
is very softening and whitening to the 
skin. 

Place a handful of the finest meal 
in hot, soft water and use instead of 
soap. Aftar the face has been thoroughly 
dried dust a little of the powdered meal 
on the skin and then rub off. 

If toe face is powdered with a little 
oatmeal before exposing it to the sun or 
wind it will help to prevent any rough- 
ness. 

Another way to use it as a whitener 
for the skin is to mix it in skim milk, 
place on the fire and let it just come to 
a boil. When cool bathe the face in this 
mixture and then wipe gently with a soft 
towel. 

FOR A PEELING SKIN.— Sometimes 
the outer or scarf skin being extremely 
thin, peels off in flakes, causing much 
pain. To prevent this bathe the face two 
or three times a day in buttermilk or a 
good skin lotion, such as milk of roses, 
and wear a gauze veil as a protection from 
the strong rays of the sun. 

RELAXED SKIN. — A lotion to apply 
at night: Ten grains tannic acid, half an 
ounce rectified spirits of wine, eight 
ounces elderflower water, one drachm 
simple tincture of benzoin. Wash the 
face at oedtime with warm water and 
soap, rinse well with cold water and ap- 
ply the lotion. 

Use cold water in the morning with a 
little simple tincture of benzoin in it; a 
teaspoonful for nearly a basinful of wa- 
ter. 

ROUGHENED SKIN.— For chapped 
hands, faces or skins, or any form of 
roughened skin nothing like glycerine to 
effect a prompt cure. If the skin will 
not bear the application of pure glycerine 
this may be mixed with equal quantities 
of olive oil. This mixture is specially 
"valuable in cases of eczema. 

FOR A TANNED SKIN.— This acts 
like a charm and moreover is good gen- 
erally for the skin. Add one ounce of 
pure malt vinegar to a pint of good milk. 
Simmer together until complete coagula- 
tion takes place. Cool and filter. This 
is just like curds and whey, but use 
only the whey. To this add an equal 
volume of pure elderflower water, one 
ounce of rectified spirits of wine and 



fifteen drops of essential oil of lavender, 
first dissolving it in the spirits. Apply 
night and morning with the fingers, dab- 
bing it well in and let dry without wip- 
ing. 

THE USE OF SOAP.— The kind of 
soap that is used for the toilet is a 
matter of some consequence, as some 
soaps help to soften while others denude, 
or otherwise injure the cuticle. A white, 
tolerably hard and non-transparent soap 
is the best. Dyed soaps are not good. 

The use of soap is considered by many 
to be injurious to the skin, but if the 
face is thoroughly rinsed after lathering 
no harm can come. If allowed to re- 
main on it will harden the skin and make 
it look shiny. 

Lemon juice may be substituted for 
soap. 

SUNBURN. — Never wash the face in 
water more than twice a day, especially 
when rain water is not to be had. Wa- 
ter can be softened by means of a lump 
of borax or a teaspoonful of strong am- 
monia in the water pitcher. Have a bot- 
tle of glycerine and cucumber; dab the 
face lightly with this before going into 
the sun. Do the same on returning, but 
this time wipe it off directly. This will 
prevent the face from sunburning. But- 
termilk is a good remedy for sunburn. 
The face should be bathed in this at 
night. It is best suited to dry skins. 

Another remedy is to bathe the face 
each evening with a cold infusioa of 
fresh cucumbers sliced in milk. 

Italian ladies use the following simple 
remedy: They bathe the face in the white 
of an egg beaten to a froth, leave it on 
the skin for about a quarter of an liour, 
and then rinse off with fresh water. This 
must be done for several nights before 
retiring to bed. 

TAN OR SUNBURN.— May be treated 
by a lotion composed of equal parts of 
fresh lemon juice, rose water and rectified 
spirits. 

Lemon juice and magnesia appli'^d for 
ten ©r fifteen minutes while resting before 
dinner acts as a perfect bleach, and is 
more pleasant than applications of greasy 
creams. 

TEETH. — If we neglect our teeth wfr 
are in danger of losing them altogether, 
and it is lamentable to see how many peo- 
ple wear artificial teeth. Decay must be 
checked at once, as directly the enamel is 
cnce penetrated the dentine yields more 
rapidly to the dissolving acids which form 
in every mouth. Extremes of heat _ and 
cold crack the enamel, and the habit of 
eating very sweet, or very sour foods and 
condiments is very liable to start decay. 
Acids destroy the enamel. 

Many persons' teeth decay because they 



84 SEVERAL SPECIES OF WASPS PKODUCE GALL IN OAKS, EOSES, ETC. 



do not cleanse them often enough. Teeth 
should be brushed after every meal, and, 
most important of all, before going to bed. 
A quill toothpick should also be used to 
remove any particles of food lodging be- 
tween the teeth, or, in place of this, a ^ilk 
thread may be drawn through. There is a 
special one prepared for this purpose 
called dental floss. 

Never, on any account, pick or poke 
about the teeth with pins or any sharp in- 
strument. 

FALSE TEETH. — Nothing alters a 
face or makes one look so much older as a 
set of artificial teeth, not to mention the 
discomfort of them or the pain in the be- 
ginning. So take good care of your teeth 
as being one of the most important parts 
of your system. 

TOOTHACHE. — Decay is the most 
common cause of toothache, though sick- 
ness and sudden ciiauges of temperature 
will cause the teeth to aciie. Overfatigue 
or a low condition of bodily vigor caused 
by hunger will produce pain, and this kind 
of pain can generally be dispelled by a 
good meal. 

Wisdom teeth often cause severe pain 
when there is not room enough for them 
to take their proper place. Sometimes 
this pain is felt in different parts of the 
mouth. 

Treatment, — The successful treatment 
of toothache depends largely upon the se- 
lection of the right remedy. The causes 
are so diverse that what may cure one 
cause may have no effect in another. If 
the pain will not yield to external applica- 
tions, inward medicine will sometimes re^ 
lieve. Two or three drops of oil of cloves 
put on a small piece of cotton wool and 
placed in the hollow of the tooth, will have 
the active power of curing without de- 
stroying the tooth or injuring the gums. 
A drop of creosote or a few drops of 
chloroform on cotton, or a few grains of 
camphor placed in the decayed opening 
will often afford instant relief. 

TOOTHBRUSHES.— Do not use too 
hard a brush; one with moderately hard 
bristles, and not too many of them, is the 
best. Never use a toothbrush after the 
bristles begin to fall out, nor when they are 
worn away or crushed. A toothbrush, 
when not in use. should stand on end with 
the brush uppermost. This will dry them. 

TOOTH POWDER.— A most reliable 
tooth powder, and one guaranteed not to 
injure the teeth, is to have prepared equal 
quantities of powdered orris root, soap, 
pumice-stone and camphorated chalk, the 
whole perfumed with wintergreen or any 
other preferred flavor. 

A SIMPLE TOOTH POWDER.— 
Take three ounces of precipitate of chalk, 
one ounce of orris root, a tablespoonful of 



bicarbonate of soda and a teaspoonful of 
powdered castile soap; put them together 
and sift through a fine sieve. This can be 
made at home. 

Or, mis well together two ounces pre- 
cipitated chalk, two drachms powdered 
borax, half an ounce of powdered orris 
root and half a drachm of powdered 
myrrh. Keep in a tightly-stoppered bottle. 

TO RELIEVE WEARINESS.— A bath 
in very warm water will relieve great 
weariness. Give a quick dash of cold 
water after and rub dry with a rough 
towel. 

WRINKLES. —To prevent wrinkles, 
early hours should be kept by all those 
who wish to keep their youthful appear- 
ance. Thin people who have many wrln- 
kles may improve their skin by taking 
plenty of milk; but this must not be taken 
unless it can be easily digested. Wrinkles 
appearing at the side of the mouih should 
be smoothed in an outward direction to- 
wards the ears. Lying awake at night, 
worrying over trifles, is a frequent cause of 
T.'rinkles. Keep the window open slightly 
and cease to worry, 

ICED WATER.— Cold drinks should be 
avoided by women who wish to preserve 
their complexions. The constant sipping 
of liquid during hot weather does not really 
allay the thirst and is extremely bad for 
the skin. Few things cause indigestion 
more quickly than drinking between meals. 

TO SOFTEN HARD WATER.— ThiS 
is best done by boiling it for some mo- 
ments; this forces the gas and air out of 
it, and causes the carbonate of lime to de- 
posit at once on the sides of the kettle in 
the foi-m of fur. After being boiled, it 
should get cold before using. 

No. 2. — To soften hard water is by the 
addition of a small quantity of milk of 
lime, which can be bought at any drug 
store. 

No. 3. — Hard water can be softened by 
adding a little fine oatmeal or a few drops 
of simple tincture of benzoin. 

A WATER SOFTENER.— A delightful 
water softener for the bath is obtained by 
making cheesecloth bags, four inches 
square. Mix two and a half pounds of 
fine oatmeal, four ounces of powdered cas- 
tile soap and eight ounces of powdered 
orris root. Fill the bags loosely and use 
one as a sponge. 

FORMULAS. 

STRAWBERRY COSMETIC. — Rub- 
bing the vace over with a strawberry for 
several successive days is said to whiten 
the skin and remove discolorations. 

A COMPLEXION CREAM. — Two 
ounces of pounded sweet almonds; one 
ounce of pounded bitter almonds. Blanch, 



A FEMALE HOUSE-FLY PRODUCES IN" ONE SEASON 20,080,320 EGGS. 85 



peel and pouud to a smooth paste. Heat 
and beat up in an earthenware vessel the 
following ingredients: One and a half 
ounces of spermaceti, one ounce of oil of 
sweet almonds, half an ounce of pure 
honey, six drops of extract of violets. 
Mix all together with the pounded almonds 
and beat until well incorporated. 

Very little to be used at a time, but it 
must be thoroughly rubbed into the skin. 

No. 2. — Melt together two teaspoonfuls 
of spermaceti and one ounce of oil of al^ 
monds; as it cools stir in sixteen drops of 
essence of lemon. 

Apply a little at night time. 

CAMPHOR CREAM.— Three drachms 
of camphor, three of white wax, three of 
spermaceti and two ounces of sweet olive 
oil. Put the ingredients into a jar; set it 
in a saucepan of boiling water and let it 
melt, stirring all the time. Pour while hot 
into little jars. This is excellent for the 
'hands. 

COLD CREAM. — One ounce sperma- 
ceti, half an ounce of pure white wax, 
quarter of a pint of almond oil, six drops 
attar of roses and one and a half ounces of 
glycerine. Melt all in a jar, either in the 
oven or by standing it in a saucepan of 
boiling water; stir till nearly cold. Put 
in a pot and tie down. 

FOSSATI CREAM.— Place five grains 
of precipitated sulphur and two and a halt 
grains of oxide of zinc in a mortar and add 
five grains of almond oil, a little at a time, 
until a smooth paste is formed; then add 
five grams of lanoline and half a gram of 
■violet extract. Keep in ointment boxes. 

LANOLINE CREAM. — An excellent 
emollient for the skin may be prepared as 
follows: Procure half a pint of lanoline 
and half a pint of pure oil of sweet al- 
monds. Put a tabiespoonful of the lano- 
line on a china plate and add an equal 
quantity of the almond oil. Mix together 
thoroughly and add from a half to a tea- 
spoonful of tincture of benzoin till the 
paste becomes the consistency of very thick 
cream. This should be applied at night. 
The amount of benzoin can be increased 
ten to fifteen drops. 

SHAVING CREAM.— Put half a pound 
of soft soap into a jar and pour over one 
pint of the best alcohol; place the jar in a 
deep pan of boiling water and let stand 
till the soap has all dissolved. Perfume it 
with any preferred essential oil. This is 
excellent,^ especially for any one having a 
tender skin. Dip the shaving brush in hot 
water, then slightly into the cream, brush 
the face briskly with it and it forms in- 
stantly into a rich lather. A less quantity 
can be made if desired. 

CUCUMBER JUICE. — The natural 
arsenic in the cucumber makes it an excel- 
lent bleach for the skin. The juice is ob- 



tamed by peeling the vegetable, then slic- 
ing It thmly and extracting the juice by a 
heavy pressure. This is most beneficial to 
the skm, especially when mixed with eau 
de cologne, one part to two parts of the 
jmce. Use after washing. The advan- 
tage of this is that it is not at all greasy, 
as _ grease is apt to develop superfluous 
hairs, therefore it can be used without 
fear. 

A lemon squeezer will do for extracting 
the juice from the cucumber. 

CUCUMBER LOTION.— Squeeze the 
juice from one large, fresh cucumber into 
a 10-oz. bottle and add about four ounces 
of elderflower water and two tablespoon- 
fuls of eau de cologne. Shake until thor- 
oughly mixed, then pour in slowly half an 
ounce of tincture of benzoin, and fill to the 
top with more elderflower water. This 
keeps for one year at least, and is excel- 
lent for contracting the pores and tighten- 
ing the skin, thus warding off wrinkles. 

LOTION FOR ECZEMA.— Resorcin, 
two drachms, and enough glycerine to 
make eight ounces; mix and paint the 
parts night and morning with a camel's 
Lair brush. 

ELDERFLOWER LOTION. — Al- 
though it is impossible to make this at 
home as good as is purchased at the 
druggist's, for it is necessary that u 
should be submitted to the process of dis- 
tillation, still a very useful and refreshing 
wash for the complexion can be prepared. 
Pick the elderflowers from the stalks and 
pack as many of them as possible into a 
pint jug; then fill it up with boiling water, 
cover with a thick cloth and let it remain 
until the next day. Then strain the 
liquid through a piece of muslin and add 
half an ounce of rectified spirits of wine 
and two drachms of simple tincture of 
benzoin. This will keep for some time. 

LOTION FOR FRECKLES. — One 
ounce of dried rose-leaves infused for one 
hour in twelve ounces of boiling water; 
strain by squeezing through muslin; into 
this infusion dissolve half a drachm of 
citric acid. Apply the lotion to the skin 
twice or thrice daily with a piece of cot- 
ton wool or lint. 

Another. — Add one drachm of sal-am- 
moniac and one ounce of eau de cologne 
to a pint of spring water. Apply twice a 
day. 

LOTION TO REMOVE FRECKLES. 
— Half an ouuce of carbonate of potash, 
one ounce of tincture of benzoin, one ounce 
glycerine, one ounce of orange flower 
water and enough rose water to make the 
whole one pint. Apply two or three times 
a day. 

MILK OF ROSES LOTION.— Sperma- 
ceti, 7 grains; white wax, 15 grains; white 
castile soap, powdered, i^ drachm; oil of 



86 THERE ARE NO GROUNDS TOR THE TERROR INSPIRED BY EAR-WIGS. 



almonds, % drachm; bitter almonds, 3 
drachms; sweet almonds, 1 ounce; rectified 
spirits, 3 ounces; distilled water, 7 ounces; 
attar of roses, 3 drops. 

Blanch the almonds in water and dry 
quickly in a clean cloth, then beat to a 
paste with the soap. Melt the wax, the 
spermaceti and the oil together in a small 
dish; pour the fluid into the almond paste 
and beat well together, then stir in rapidly 
the spirit and finally the perfume, and 
strain through a fine muslin. This is excel- 
lent for keeping the skin fair and smooth. 
OATMEAL LOTION.— Boil two table- 
spoonfuls of good oatmeal in water for one 
hour. Strain and when cold add a dessert^ 
spoonful of white wine and the juice of 
one lemon. The oatmeal gives nourisa- 
ment, the wine removes the greasy appear- 
ance and the lemon whitens. 

LOTION FOR GREASY SKIN.— Sul- 
phate of zinc, 4 grains; compound tincture 
of lavender, 8 drops; lavender water, I 
ounces; rose water, 2 ounces. Rub it on 
the face two or three times a day. 

LOTION FOR A MOIST, GREASY 
SKIN. — Borax, Va ounce; pure glycerine, 1 
ounce; campnor water, 1 quart. Bathe the 
skin once cr twice daily. 

LOTION FOR AN OILY SKIN WITH 
OPEN PORES. — The following lotion is 
admirable: Two ounces eau de cologne, 
quarter ounce spirits of rosemary, half an 
ounce oil of sweet almonds, ten drops car- 
bolic acid. Apply just before drying the 
skin, adding a few drops to about an ounce 
©f water. 

DANDRUFF OINTMENT.— Rub the 
following ointment well into the hair at 
night. Ten grains resorcin, ten grams 
hydrochlorate of quinine, four drachms 
lanoline, two drachms vaseline. Wash off 
in the morning with the following lotion. 
DANDRUFF LOTION. — One tea- 
spoonful powdered borax, half a teaspoon- 
ful of salt, one ounce spirits of rosemary 
and eight ounces of rose water. 

DANDRUFF WASH.— Four teaspoon- 
fuls of fine almond meal, and one teaspoon- 
ful of bicarbonate of soda; mix in a gob- 
let of warm water and apply to the roots 
of the hair with a small stiff brush, tnen 
rinse in water with a few drops of am- 
monia. 

PERFUMES. — The perfumes that are 
most agreeable to the senses are not 
always helpful to the nerves. 

AMBERGRIS is offensive to many, yet 
it is said to possess a power of clearing 
the brain and driving away "the blues." 

ATTAR OF ROSES predisposes one 
to tears. 

MUSK.— A faint odor of musk acts as 
a tonic. 



CIVET.— Brings drowsiness, the best 
antidote being the pungent odor of san- 
dalwood. 

CITRON AND ALOEWOOD. — Is 

soothing to nervous people. Many per- 
fumes are delightful in the open air, but 
disagreeable in a close room. 

TUBEROSES OR LILIES produce a 
bad effect by their strong fragrance. 

MAGNOLIA BLOSSOMS have a de- 
lightful perfume in their native grove, but 
must never be left in a sleeping room. 

A vivid perfume is always bracing, and 
a subtle one is generally enervating. 

PEACH, ALMOND, WILD 
CHERRY, and other blossoms of the same 
class, may become positively intoxicating 
through their odor, for they all contain a 
suggestion of prussic acid. 

TO PERFUME A ROOM.— The air of 
a room at evening parties, etc., can be 
rendered delightfully fresh and perfumed 
by placing in a vase the contents of a 
packet of petal powder, obtained at any 
druggist's for a few cents. 

A FRAGRANT SACHET POWDER. 
—A good and lasting sachet powder is 
made by mixing two ounces of powdered 
orris root with one ounce of powdertnl cin- 
namon, one ounce of grated nutme,:.'; and 
the same quantity of cloves pounded in a 
mortar, and about twelve pounded Ton- 
quin beans. 

LAVENDER SACHET POWDF.R.- 
This is delicious for a linen closet. Take 
a pound of dried lavender, a pound of 
rose leaves, half a pound of closely 
crushed orris root, two ounces of cjnna- 
mon, and a pound of dry table salt, iveep 
in airtight jar for two weeks before using. 

ROSE SACHET POWDER.— Take a 
pound of petals of any rose preferred, half 
a pound of ground sandalwood and a 
fourth of an ounce of attar of roses. Keep 
a week before using. 

DRIED ROSE LEAVES SACHET 
POWDER.— To make a sachet powder, 
the petals should be plucked separately 
and strung on a piece of white thread, 
allowing a little space between each. 
Hang up in a shady open place for about 
a week and if at the end of that time they 
have dried sufficiently to crumble to a 
powder, they may be removed and pow- 
dered and put up into sachets, otherwise 
they must hang till perfectly dry and crisp. 
The sun must not shine on the petals, 
otherwise the oil containing the scent is 
drawn away. These powders should re- 
tain their scent for a long time. 

VERBENA SACHET POWDER.-Cut 
the peel of lemons into small pieces and 
dry in a slow oven till it can be crushed 
to a fine powder. To half a pound of thi» 
powder allow an ounce and a half of pow- 



GI^ATS DANCE IN EEGULAK POSITIONS LIKE A QUADRILLE. 



87 



dered caraway-seed; mix well, and over it 
pour a few drops at a time, a mixture of 
an ounce and a half of oil of lemon-peel 
and three ounces of oil of bergamot; stir 
constantly not to have it lumpy; put as 
much as is wished in musHu bags and 
bottle the remainder in a tightly corked 
wide-mouthed bottle. A much smaller 
quantity can be made, reducing the in- 
gredients. 

VIOLET SACHET POWDER.— One 

pound of powdered orris root, a quarter 
of an ounce of powdered bergamot peel, 
a quarter of an ounce of powdered acacia, 
twenty grains of powdered musk. Mix 
well and sift. Let the powder stand in a 
tight glass jar one week before using. 

VIOLET SACHET POWDER, VERY 
SIMPLE. — Take equal parts of orris-root 
and pulverized starch; pour over the 
starch, a few drops at a time, a strong 
essence of violets, never adding enough at 
a time to make it lumpy. Keep stirring 
till thoroughly impregnated with the violet 
essence; then mix the orris-root well in; 
pass it through a fine sieve and use the 
same as other sachet powders. 

SCENT BAGS FOR PERFUMING 
DRESSES AND CLOTHES.— Dried la- 
vender and lemon verbena sewn up in thin 
muslin or silk bags are nice for putting in 
wardrobes and places to scent dresses, etc. 
To keep a faint scent about them, French 
women fold large bags of this sort into 
their skirts when they are taken ofO and 
put away. Avoid the danger of too much 
perfume. The faintest touch of soma 
really good natural scent is delicious — more 
is in bad taste. 

TOILET POWDER.— Mix a quarter of 
a pound of ground almonds with an equal 
Quantity of line wheat flour and two tea- 
spoonfuls of powdered orris root. This 
is a harmless powder that will soften and 
jvhiten the skin. 

SAGE LEAVES.— Are excellent for 
many toilet purposes. They free the 
teeth from tartar aud keep them white. 
If the gums are soft and tender an as- 
tringent wash made of sage leaves will 
harden them. 

A gargle of sage leaf tea is excellent 
for inflamed throat or enlarged tonsils. 
A lotion of sage leaves is healing for 
weak and aching eyes; make it by wash- 
ing thoroughly a handful of freshly picked 
leaves, put them in a pitcher of boiling 
water, cover, strain when cold and bot- 
tle. Fresh leaves are always better than 
the dried ones. 

LAVENDER SALTS.— Fill a bottle 
with lumps of bicarbonate of ammonia 
and pour over it spirits of lavender; keep 
tightly stoppered. 



TOILET VINEGAR.— Take two quarts 
of the best vinegar, two dozen leaves each 
of sage, mint, rue, rosemary and worm- 
wood, put together in a jar, stand it 
for a week by the fire, then strain aud 
add half an ounce of camphorated spirit 
of wine. 

No. 2. — Prepare half an ounce each of 
rue, miut, rosemary and sage, one ounce 
of tops of wormwood, t.vo ounces of laven- 
der flowers, two drachms each of cinna- 
mon, aromatic gum, cloves and nutmeg 
and half an ounce of camphor. Put into 
a stoue jar and pour over one gallon of 
vinegar. Cork, stand it for four weeks 
in a warm place, strain, filter and bottle 
in small glass bottles. 

A TOILET WASH.— Take a glass stop- 
pered bottle, put into it the leaves and 
flowers of any plant you prefer the per- 
fume of and pcur over some glycerine. 
Let it stand for four weeks; liy that 
time all the aromatic properties of the 
plant will have been extracted by the 
glycerine. Pour a little of this in the 
water you wash your face and hands with, 
and it will give a delicate and soothing 
effect to this water. 

ALMOND MEAL.— All the dry ingre- 
dients must be powdered and the oil 
added very gradually, stirring well. Nine 
ounces of sweet almonds, nine ounces of 
ground beans, four ounces of orris root, 
three ounces of white castile soap, three- 
quarters of an ounce of spermaceti, half 
an ounce of carbonate of soda, three 
drachms each of the oils of bergamot, 
lavender and lemon. Used for softening- 
water. 

BERGAMOT.— A kind of citron of the, 
same family of fruits as the orange, lem- 
on and lime. The oil of bergamot used' 
for making perfume is distilled from the, 
rind, also made by grating the rind and 
pressing it in glass vessels. 

EAU-DE-COLOGNE.— Eight grammes 
of essence of bergamot, four grammes es- 
sence of citron, six drops essence of origan, 
twenty drops essence of neroli, twenty 
drops essence of romarin, thirty grammes 
orange flower water, 578 cubes triple recti- 
fied alcohol. 

NO. 2. EAU-DE-COLOGNE.— Mix to- 
gether five I'arts essential oil of oranga 
fl.iWtT, 50 parts essence of lemon, 15 
parts essential oil of lavender, one ps.rt 
resemary and 1,000 parts alcohol. Let 
stand one month before using. 

ESSENCE OP GINGER.— Five ounces 
bruised unbleached Jamaica ginger, one 
pint rectified spirit; digest a fortnight, 
press and filter. 

To make it a little stronger add a, 
very little essence of cayenne. 



88 



SPOXGES ARE BELIEVED TO CONSIST OF EXCITABLE FISH. 



ESSENCE OF LEMON.— One fli"d 
ounce of oil of lemons, eight fluid ounces 
of deodorized alcohol (strongest flavorless 
rectified I and half an ounce exterior .vel- 
low rind of fresh lemons. Digest forty- 
eight hou'*s and filtor. 

EXTRACT OF PINK.— Mix togotuer 
three ounces of extract of oraut'e flovers, 
six ounces of extract of rose, fifty-six 
grammes of extract of t'anilla and ten 
droijs of essence of cloves. 

EXTRACT OF ROSE -Adfl a pint of 
pure alcohol (above proof) to one ounce 
of oil of roses, put in a large clean bot- 
tle and shake well. Put the bottle in 
a vessel of hot water and leave until the 
coontents have reached 85 degrees Fahren- 
heit. Cork the bottle and shake well 
till the extract is cold. 

ROSEMARY LEAVES.— These are of 
great value for the toilet. 

For a hair lotion a strong decoction is 
•useful either alone or with other sub- 
stances. The fresh leaves are the best. 
Place two ounces in the bottom of a pie 
dish, cover with water, and let stew in the 
oven for twenty minutes. 

The leaves can be dried to use in winter. 



For very dry hair boil two handfuls of 
rosemary leaves in pure lard; this makes 
an excellent pomade. 

LAVENDER WATER.— One pint of 
rectified spirits of wine, four drachms of 
essential oil of lavender, and ten drops of 
attar of roses. Bottle all together and 
shake well, then rebottle in smaller bottles 
and cork. 

ROSE WATER.— Fill a bottle half full 
of good brandy and then put in as many 
rose leaves as it will hold; take the cab- 
bage rose in preference. Cork the bottle 
up very tight, and put it away in a cool, 
dry place for a month or two before using 
it. 

LAVENDER SMELLING SALTS.— A 
quarter of an ounce each of oil of cassia, 
oil of cloves, oil of bergamot and oil of 
lavender. Mix and rub well together. 
Put four ounces of carbonate of soda in 
squares into the smelling bottle, and pour 
enough of the oils over just barely to 
cover. 

PEAU d'ESPAGNE.— This perfume is 
made by mixing together half fraugipani 
and half patchouli. Shake the bottle well 
and cork tightly. 



MOULDINESS RESEMBLES A EOEEST OP PERFECT TREES. 



89 



Clothing and Its Care 



DRESS MEASUREMENTS, HOW TO 
TAKE. 
BUST MEASUREMENT.— Draw a 

tape measure arouud the fullest part of 
the bust, and pull it rather loosely. Write 
down the uumber of inches. 

FRONT OF WAIST.— Measure from 
under the chin at the neck line, down to 
the waist line. 

BACK OF WAIST.— Metosure from 
the prominent bone at the back of the 
neck, extending the measure down to the 
waist line. 

WAIST MEASURE.— Draw the meas- 
ure somewhat tightly arouud the waist. 

UNDER ARM MEASURES.— Put the 
tape under the arms towards the back, and 
measure to the waist line. 

SLEEVE MEASURE.— Place the 
measure around the largest part of the 
arm, this gives the width of the sleeve, 
then measure outside and inside from the 
arm-pit to the waist. 

WRIST MEASURE.— Close the hand, 
and measure around the knuckles. 

SKIRT MEASURES.— Measure in the 
front from the waist line to the floor. 
The same for the back and sides. Meas- 
ure the size of the belt. 

HIP MEASURES.— Draw the measure 
around the hips, five inches below the 
waist. 

HOME DRESSMAKING HINTS.— 
always dampen tailor's canvas before us- 
ing. 

Join all skirt seams at top and work 
downwards. 

Keep a well made dress by for a pat- 
tern. First cut the skirt. Odd pieces do 
for the waist. Wax buttonhole twist 
before using to avoid knots. Put an 
interlining of canvas down the fronts 
in which buttonholes are to be made. 

The canvas for collar lining should 
be cut exactly the size of pattern. Al- 
low nothing for turnings. 

A sleeve is better sewn in by hand, for 
the machine may push the gathers out of 
place. Soak the whalebones a few min- 
utes in hot water; they then can be bent 
to fit the seam. 

When making the collar, place the ma- 
terial and lining together, damp the can- 
vas, place it on the material and iron 
till thoroughly dry. This is better than 
tacking. 



If the material is thin, bind the skirt 
canvas all around with a piece of soft 
muslin cut crossways. 

When putting on bone casings make a 
loop at the top of each by turning over 
an inch of binding. Run the casing on 
rather full, or it will soon be in holes. Put 
skirts into the bands, and see they are 
the same length all around before fin- 
ishing off the bottom hem. 

COLORS TO WEAR.— A brunette ia 
never so well as in cream color, for she 
has reproduced the tinting of her skin 
in her dress. 

A blonde is at her best in grey; for in 
the blonde's fairness there are tints of 
grey, and in a dark woman's pallor there 
are always yellowish tints, the same as 
in cream color. A woman with blue eyes 
and a neutral tinted complexion requires 
blue shades in which grey is mixed for 
there is a certain delicate blueness in these 
complexions. 

Florid complexioned women look well 
in plum and heliotrope, also certain shades 
of dove-grey. 

Blondes look younger in black, while 
brunettes can seldom wear it to their ad- 
vantage. 

RIBBONS AND THEIR WIDTHS.— 
Many ladies when ordering or purchasing 
ribbons are not familiar with the trade- 
mark numbers corresponding to their 
width. The following list will often be 
found most useful : 

No. 1 is 34 inch wide. 

No. lYs is % inch wide. 

No. 2 is 1^ inch v, ie. 

No. 3 is % inch wide. 

No. 4 is % inch wide. 

No. 5 is 1 inch wide. 

No. 7 is 1^4 inches wide. 

No. 9 is 11/4 inches wide. 

No. 12 is 2 inches wide. 

No. 16 is 2y2 inches wide. 

No. 20 is 2% inches wide (seldom used). 

No. 30 is 3^ inches wide. 

No. 40 is 4 inches wide. 

No. 50 is 4^ inches wide. 

No. 60 is 5 inches wide. 

There is a 7-inch ribbon for sashes, also 
8, 9, 10, 11, 12. 

Different makes of ribbon often vary 
a trifle in width, especially the cheaper 
grades, as they run narrower. For in- 
stance, a cheap No. 7 ribbon will be at 
least % of an inch narrower than one of 
a regular standard quality. 



90 



EELS IN VINEGAR SURVIVE REPEATED FREEZINGS. 



BLACK VELVET RIBBONS, SATIN 
FACED. 

Relative numbers and widths: 
No. 1 is 14 inch. 
No. IVa is % inch. 
No. 2 is 14 inch. 
No. 3 is % inch 
No. 4 is % inch. 
No. 5 is 1 inch. 
No. 9 is ll^ inches. 
No. 12 is 1% inches. 
No. 16 is 214 inches. 
No. 22 is 2% inches- 
No. 30 is 31/4 inches. 
No. 40 is 4 inches. 

BLACK VELVET RIBBON, LINEN 
OR COTTON BACK. 

No. 1 is %inch. 

No 11/4 is % inch. 

No. 2^ is % inch. 

No. 5 is 1% inches. 

No. 22 is 2% inches. 

No. 24 is 3 inches. 

No. 50 is 4 inches. 

All the other numbers vary a little less 
than 1-lG of an inch with the satin-faced 
ribbons. There are more widths of these 
ribbons than of the better quality. 

.JEWELS, THEIR CARE.— Jewels re- 
quire constant attention, and are too often 
neglected for fear of injuring them, as 
the result is they are always dirty or 
have to be sent to the jewellers to be 
cleaned. 

DIAMONDS.— Lose their brightness as 
scon as they are dirty, especially in rings 
when kept in constant wear. 

To clean diamonds, use a little warm 
watei*, soap and ammonia, and either 
sponge or brush them very gently; a 
hard brush might loosen the stones. Wash 
until every particle of dirt is removed, 
then rinse in cold water and dip into 
slightly heated boxwood sawdust, brush- 
ing this off afterwards. 

RUBIES, EMERALDS, and almost all 
colored stones, except turquoises are to 
be cleaned like diamonds. 

TURQUOISES.— These may sometimes 
be washed in the ordinary way, but they 
may change their color if not very well 
done. If very dirty, they had better be 
entrusted to a jeweller, but if not very 
dirty, a good plan is to rub the stone with 
a very small piece of putty, and then rub 
with a very slightly dampened chamois. 
The stone requires only a gentle rub, then 
dip it in pulverized chalk; afterwards 
wash in soap and water and dry with 
the leather again. 

PEARLS.— If whole pearls they can 
be washed in soap and water, but if halves 
they must never be put in water or they 



will blacken. Just polish with a dry, clean 
chamois when they look a little dirty and 
brush the settings with a soft brush. 
Wearing pearls does them more good than 
locking them up in their cases, for they 
will fade if they hardly ever see day- 
light and lose their greatest charm. 

BRACELETS, CHAINS, BROOCHES 
AND BANGLES can all be washed in 
warm soapsuds. Use a soft brush and 
put into the water a minute or two before 
brushing. After a good cleaning, place 
in a basin of cold water to rinse all the 
soap out. Dry each one separately with 
a soft piece of chamois and brush with 
a soft brush. 

SILVER JEWELRY.— When this gets 
very dirty it is more diflScult to brighten 
it again, therefore scrub them in boiling 
water. A little soda dissolved in the 
water will cleanse them wonderfully. 

WHITE LEATHER BELTS, TO 

CLEAN. — If not too dirty, clean them 
with cream of tartar. Leave for an hour, 
then rub with powdered alum and fuller's 
earth, mixed in equal parts. Put aside 
for a day, then brush quite clean and 
rub over with bran or fine oatmeal to 
which has been added a little dry whiting. 
After a time wipe with a clean cloth. 
This is better than pipe clay as it is 
not so messy. 

THE CARE OF CLOTHES.— Clothes 
require daily attention, as much as a 
room requires daily dusting, and the wom- 
an who neglects to sew on a button or 
darn a hole is sure to look shabby soon. 
Never put any garment away soiled or 
dirty. 

DRESSES.— Dresses should be proper- 
ly brushed and shaken, waists well aired, 
and the wrinkles ironed occasionally out 
of the sleeves. Don't hang a skirt up by 
the hooks and eyes; have hangers of tape 
on each side of the belt for this purpose. 

Skirts should be brushed, then turned 
Inside out. and a stitch given where nec- 
essary. Waists must also have hang- 
ers; watch all the bones and hooks, as a 
protruding bone has caused many a hole. 
This also applies to corset bones. 

When laying away handsome day or 
evening waists, stuff the sleeves with tis- 
sue paper, also the full front or any 
bows of ribbon. Place little bags of lav- 
ender or violet perfume among them to im- 
part a delicate scent, and remove any odor 
of wood from the drawer. 

HATS AND BONNETS.— If dust is 
left in hats it will work its way in and 
luin the color. A soft hat brush should 
be on every woman's dressing table, the 
hat carefully brushed, and the ribbons 
and flowers smoothed out before being 
put away. 



VEGETABLES ARE COMPOSED OP CARBON", OXYGEN" AND HYDROGEN. 91 



UNDERCLOTHING.— Will wear twice 
as loug if taken cai'e of. Darn any lit- 
tle holes in linen or stockings directly they 
appear. Lace can also be mended and 
should be renewed as soon as it has a ten- 
dency to look ragged. 

RIBBONS AND SASHES should be 
wound onto a roll of white paper. 

VEILS should be rolled or folded direct- 
ly they are taken off. 

CARE OP MEN'S CLOTHES.- 
Clothes should be often looked over, spe- 
cial attention being given to linings. 
Braids often become shabby and should 
be replaced. Worn pockets can be re- 
placed by new ones, and the mouth of 
the pocket damped and ironed back to its 
right shape. 

Sew buttons on with tailor's thread, 
the stitches to be on the face of the coat, 
not to spoil the lining. 

TROUSERS.— When the bottoms of 
trousers become worn along the edge, and 
so much so that when the hem is opened, 
it forms a hole, neatly cut along the 
worn line with sharp scissors, turn the 
strip of cloth so the new part is down- 
wards, sew with a close, even line of 
stitching and turn it up again as a false 
hem. Press it with a very hot iron over 
a damp cloth. This will last longer and 
be more indiscernible than if new cloth 
was used. 

CLEANING AND FRESHENING.- 
Black clothes and satin-faced cloth be- 
come shiny at the seams. Mix equal parts 
of liquid ammonia and water, lay the 
garment flat on the table aud rub the 
seams with a sponge wrung out of the am- 
monia, then go over the whole surface 
with a clean, stiff, ammonia-dampened 
brush. 

CREASED CLOTHES.— A good hot 
iron and a damp cloth bring back fresh- 
ness when the clothes are only tossed and 
creased. Care must be taken to fold the 
trousers in the way adopted by tailors; the 
crease will then run regularly down the 
front of the leg. 

MEN'S HATS.— A silk hat is kept in 
better condition by using a velvet pad in- 
stead of a brush. A silk hat cannot be 
successfully cleaned at home. A black 
felt hat can be freshened with ammonia 
and water and a good brush. Pine oat- 
meal rubbed in with often changed crusts 
of bread, cleans a light colored felt nicely. 

CLEANING BOYS' CLOTHES.— 
These get more soiled and greasy than 
men's. Take a peck of lime, and add 
enough water to dissolve it; add two gal- 
lons of water and let it stand for some 
hours. Carefully pour off the clear li- 
quid through a piece of muslin, and to 



it add three ounces of pearl-ash for every 
gallon of water. Stir well and bottle for 
use. This can be diluted with water to 
suit the delicacy of the color of the cloth, 
being excellent for light colored clothes. 

Apply with a piece of coarse sponge, 
rubbing well the most soiled parts; go 
over again with the sponge wrung out of 
clear, cold water, then press with a hot 
iron, especially the seams. 

Turpentine removes paint marks, and 
the head of a match, directly the flame Is 
blown out, is a ready way to remove a 
small grease spot. Benzine is a well- 
known cleanser. 

_ TO RENOVATE CRAPE.— When a 
piece of crape or a veil begins to look rusty, 
then it needs cleaning. Rip out all the 
hems and roll the crape around a clean 
broom-handle after brushing each piece 
with an old piece of silk. Have the waslu 
boiler half full of boiling water, rest the 
broom on the edges and turn it around so 
that every part may be steamed while the 
water is kept boiling for four hours. Put 
the handle away for the night, and after 
unpinning it in the morning, the crape will 
be as fresh as new. This process may be 
repeated many times. 

TO REMOVE WATER MARKS 
PROM CRAPE.- Water always leaves a 
conspicuous white mark on crape. Spread 
the crape on a table, with a large book or 
paper weight on top to keep it steady, and 
underneath the stain lay a piece of old 
black silk. With a large camel's hair 
brush dipped in black ink go over the 
stain, and then wipe the ink off gently with 
another piece of soft silk. It will dry 
at once aud the white mark will disap- 
pear. 

GIRLS' CLOTHING.— Always wear 
some sort of woolen clothing next to the 
skin and never wear anything tight, for 
there should be no undue pressure on any 
part of the body. If a girl's waist is com- 
pressed, she must necessarily displacei 
some of the very delicate internal organs 
of her body with disastrous results. 

Corsets should be worn as intended for 
a support only. 

Keep the chest and arms warm. 

Wear sensible boots with common-sense 
heels. 

Walking dresses cut short enough to 
just clear the ground. 

Keep the clothes free from all dust and 
dirt. 

TO CLEAN WHITE FEATHERS.— 

Dissolve four ounces of white curd soap 
in four pints of hot water and whip it 
to a lather. Put the feathers into this, 
aud draw through the hands till they 
are perfectly clean, and then rinse thor- 
oughly in clean, hot water and shake often 
until dry. Re-curl with a silver knife. 



92 VEGETABLES PRODUCE GLUTEI, FARINA, MUCILAGE, OIL AND SUGAR. 



TO CURL FEATHERS— Rub up 
with hot salt and a clean piece of flannel 
in front of a fire. This quickens the pro- 
cess. Curl between the thumb and the 
blunt edge of a knife or with a paper 
knife, working from the stalk to the tip, 
and only taking two or three strands at 
a time. A piece of whalebone will an- 
swer the same purpose. 

TO RE-CURL FEATHERS.— When 
they have become limp and straight from 
exposure to the damp air, hang them up- 
side down over a steam radiator; a stove 
will answer as well but be very careful 
the feathers do not burn as they must 
be held close enough to make them curl 
tightly. Then curl them with a blunt 
knife or scissors. 

TO DYE FEATHERS.— Buy a small 
tube of paint of the color required and 
some gasoline. Put this into a tin saucer 
and squeeze in a little color. Try the 
shade by dipping in a bit of silk. Sat- 
urate the feather in the mixture, and when 
evenly colored, take out and shake gen- 
tly. It dries very quickly so the curl does 
not come out. Wings can be treated thH 
same way. The same color dyed a darker 
shade is generally the most effective. 

TO FRESHEN FEATHERS.— Feath- 
ers that have been crushed or bent should 
be dipped in boijing water for a few 
seconds and then placed in a pan of luke- 
warm water for one hour. 

TO WASH FEATHERS. — Have two 

bowls of water, just hot enough to bear the 
hand in comfortably. Into each bowl place 
a handful of soap-jelly and a few drops 
of ammonia. Swish the feather round, 
and remove the loosened dirt by a careful 
but firm movement of the hand from stalk 
to tip. Rinse in warm water, dry by gen- 
tly patting on a clean cloth, and shake 
before the fire or in the sun. 

TO STORE FURS. — A fur garment 
is better hung up than folded away, as 
there is less danger of crushing and wrin- 
kles, and because moths can be more read- 
ily seen at their work. 

Select a dark cupboard, paper it all over, 
top and bottom, with tar paper; cover this 
with another coat of newspaper to prevent 
the clothes coming in direct contact with 
the tar. The newspaper is porous and 
will allow the tar odor to penetrate; be- 
sides, the ink helps the tar to do its work. 

Beat all the garments to be stored with 
a slender cane, for should a moth or moth- 
egg get into the cupboard, the damage 
is only partially prevented. Either a fnr 
comb or a long, slender cane should be 
used that will reach the skin itself. 

Take the clothes once a month from the 
closet and beat them well, but do not hang 
them in the suu, for the heat hatches the 



eggs instead of destroying them, and like 
other heat makes the moth thrive. 

MENDING FURS.— Use a piece of 
cardboard between the two pieces to be 
joined, so as to keep the fur from the nee- 
dle, pushing it down out of the way of the 
needle. Stitch on the wrong side, overcast- 
ing the same as the seam of a glove. When 
finished, take away the cardboard, turn 
over, and pick up with a needle any little 
hair that may be in the seam. The small- 
est pieces of fur can be utilized in this 
manner. 

BLACK KID GLOVES.-These can be 
renovated by mixing a little good black ink 
in a teaspoonful of olive oil and apply it 
to the gloves with a feather; they will 
soon dry and look like new. Black suede 
gloves may have ordinary, dull black ink 
applied when they become shiny. 

CARE OF GLOVES.— Gloves last 
much longer if carefully put away when 
they have been worn. They should never 
be rolled into a ball. Lay them out 
flat and draw out the fingers before put- 
ting by. They come off inside out; air 
and dry them, then turn back, stretched 
out and place them flat in a box or 
sachet. Place light gloves between white 
flannel to protect them from the darker 
ones. 

TO CLEAN KID GLOVES.— The 
French method is to put them on and 
wash well in spirits of turpentine, exactly 
as if washing the hands. The fingers 
and soiled parts must be well rubbed, and 
when the gloves are taken off, stretch 
and allow to dry in a strong air-current. 

TO CLEAN WHITE KID GLOVES. 
— Take a piece of white cotton batting 
or muslin, dip it in sweet milk, rub it on 
a piece of castile soap and rub on the 
glove. The best way is to put the glove 
on the hand, and have another person 
clean it. The glove can be left to dry on 
the hand and thereby ensure a perfect 
fit. 

TO CLEAN SUEDE GLOVES AND 

SLIPPERS.— Take a bowl of oatmeal 
and a stiff, clean nailbrush. Rub the 
glove or the shoe with the brush dipped 
in the oatmeal; this will remove all dirt, 
but, of course, not stains. 

TO CLEAN GLOVES WITHOUT 
BENZINE. — To clean white dressed kid 
gloves use a solution of soap in hot water. 
To one quart of this add a well-beaten 
egg-white and a few drops of salts of 
ammonia. Put on the glove and rub with 
a flannel cloth to keep the kid soft, dry 
them in a dark place. 

GLOVES. HOW TO MEND THEM. 
—Always use fine cotton which mntches 
the color of the gloves rather than silk for 
mending. In some places where the tear 
will not show— the palm of the hand for 



VEGETABLES CONTAIN- ACIDS, SUGAR, GUM, STARCH, GLUTEN, ETC. 



93 



instance — it is well to mend the liole with 
an old piece of kid the same color as the 
glove. If not, a piece of silk laid un- 
derneath, and neatly patched down is 
the better plan. Do not turn in the edges 
of the kid, but hem down neatly after cut- 
ting ofE all jagged edges. 

Another way, taking more time and re- 
quires to be done very neatly, is suited 
only for a large tear. Pare ofE the edges 
of the tear, and thread your needle (a 
glover's one if possible,) with fine sewing 
silk to match the glove. Silk must be used 
for this mending instead of cotton. 

Make a small, loose button-hole stitch 
all around the inside of the hole, and in 
the second row put the needle into these 
stitches and not into the kid. Go round 
and round, making this lace stitch until 
the centre is reached, when fasten ofE 
and the rent is secured by a network. The 
advantage of this mending is that it gives 
with the glove, and consequently, the rent 
is not apt to enlarge by tearing in a fresh 
place. 

TO PUT ON GLOVES.— First shake a 
little powder in the glove, then place the 
elbow on the table, the hand upright, the 
thumb at right angles with the palm. 
Draw the body of the glove over the fin- 
gers, and arrange each finger in the glove- 
finger intended for it, seeing that the 
seams are not twisted. Coax on the fin- 
gers carefully, and when they are fitted, 
smooth the back stitching into place. Then 
insert the thumb, pulling the back seams 
again up straight and button the wrist. 
The seam at the thumb tip should be on 
a line with the middle of the thumbnail. 
Always fasten the second button first, 
having previously sewn them on fast, as 
nothing spoils the shape of the glove more 
than wearing it without being properly 
buttoned. After taking off the gloves, 
shake and stretch them oiit, then put them 
to lie flat in a box or a drawer. 

TO SCENT GLOVES.— Mix together 
thoroughly one drachm of ambergris and a 
quarter of an ounce of orange-flower wa- 
ter; rub this into the inside of the gloves 
with cotton wool. Another perfume is to 
mix half an ounce of essence of roses, a 
drachm each of oil of cloves and mace, and 
a quarter of an ounce of frankincense. 

Place this in tissue paper between the 
gloves, and lay a heavy weight on top. 
Leave them there for two or three days 
until they are permeated with the fra- 
grance, which will cling to the gloves until 
they are entirely worn out. 

TO STRETCH A GLOVE.-Sometimes 
a wellfitting glove is too tight just in one 
place. There is a remedy for this and it 
can be made to stretch perfectly. Wrin,;? 
out a towel or handkerchief in clean 
water, lay the glove between its folds until 
the kid is thoroughly damp through, then 



stretch on a glove stretcher. If the whole 
glove is too small, wet it all, but if only 
in certain places, either the wrist or fin- 
gers, they alone should be dampened, and 
the rest left dry. This will not injure the 
most delicate shades of suede or kid. The 
water must be perfectly clean, also the 
operator's hands. 

TO WASH CHAMOIS LEATHER 
GLOVES. — Make a lather with soap and 
tepid water, adding a teaspoonful of am- 
monia to each quart. Wash the gloves 
in this and again in clean suds, then press 
with the hands, but do not wring them, 
nor do not rinse the soap out. Dry in the 
open air in a shady place. They will 
remain soft and pliable; pull them out 
while drying. 

HANDKERCHIEFS.— When purchas- 
ing handkerchiefs those of pure linen may 
be readily recognized by moistening the 
tip of the finger and stretching the fabric 
over it. Linen will show the moisture 
through immediately, but cotton threads 
take more time to absorb it. 

BLACK FELT HAT, TO CLEAN.— 
First brush the hat free of dust, then add 
a tablespoonful of strong ammonia to five 
tablespoonfuls of cold tea and with this 
clean the surface by rubbing it thoroughly 
with a flannel. 

STRAW BONNETS OR HATS, TO 
CLEAN. — Wash in warm soap liquor, well 
brushing both inside and out, then rinse 
in cold water and they are ready to 
bleach. 

TO BLEACH.— Put a small quantity 
of oxalic acid into a clean pan, and poui* 
over sufficient scalding water to cover the 
hat. Put in the hat and let it remain for 
five minutes, holding it under the water 
with a clean stick; dry in the sun or be- 
fore the fire. This is preferable to sul- 
phur, as the articles so bleached soon be- 
come yellow, which does not happen 
when bleached with oxalic acid. 

TO CLEAN WHITE STRAW HAT. 
— Remove the ribbon band and lay the hat 
on a flat surface to keep the brim in shape. 
Cut a lemon crossways in two and rub 
the hat with it. Wipe with a soft, clean 
cloth, and if the dirt and stains have not 
disappeared repeat the operation with a 
fresh piece of lemon. Dry the hat thor- 
oughly in the sun. 

MOURNING. — The costume prescribed 
for mourning is entirely arbitrary, depend- 
ing on the taste and usages of different 
countries. 

For a husband or parent one year deep, 
mourning and one year, half is the usage. 

For a child, one year. 

For other relatives from three, six to 
twelve months. 

TO RE-LINE A MUFF.— Have half 
a yard of satin and three quarters of a 



;>4 



OXALIC ACID IS PRODUCED FROM RHUBARB. 



yard of narrow elastic. Carefully np 
out the old liuiug, taking care not to cut 
the fur; use sharp scissors for this. If the 
wool interlining is shabby, put in a new 
one. Cut the satin according to the size 
of the muff; an ordinary one takes about 
thirteen inches, to include two inches at 
each end for hem and heading. Join it, 
and ruu the heading at each eud, enclos- 
ing the elastic, leaving plenty of room 
for the hand to pass in. Turn the lining 
inside out; slip it into the muff, join the 
edge of the hem neatly to the edge of 
the fur with strong silk, not cotton. Some 
prefer ribbon to elastic. This looks pretty 
if an opening is left in the hem and the 
ends tied in a bow. 

TO RENOVATE OLD DRESSES. 
SERGE OR CLOTH.— Pick about twenty 
ivy leaves, young, green ones in prefer- 
ence, wash them carefully and put them 
in a basin. Add about one pint of boil- 
ing water, cover the basin or jug, and 
leave to soak for two or three hours when 
it will be ready for use. Meanwhile thor- 
oughly brush the garment inside and 
out, and remove all untidy braid or lin- 
ing from the bottom. When ready, spread 
it on the table, and carefully sponge with 
the ivy-water, any stained part having an 
extra rub. Then hang it out to dry, when 
it will be found to have recovered all 
its former color and look like new after 
which the bottom must be neatly mended 
and braided and a tidy skirt is the result. 
This is far less trouble than turning the 
skirt. 

All dark, fast colored serges and cloths 
can be treated in this way. 

TO RENOVATE BLACK LACE.— 
Black lace can also be renovated when 
soiled or brown by sponging with ivy water 
the same as the cloth and serge dresses, 
and then rolling it over a cloth wound 
around a roller. It should not be ironed. 
TO RENOVATE BLACK SILK.— 
Black silk can be cleaned with the ivy 
water the same as cloth and serges, but 
it needs more care. If the silk is in 
breadths, it must be lightly sponged, then 
tightly rolled over a cloth wound around 
a roller and left to dry. 

If the skirt is to be left whole without 
ripping, it must be carefully folded after 
sponging, covered with a cloth and pressed 
with a hot iron. 

For a good silk, it is more satisfactory 
to undo it entirely. It will be more trou- 
ble, but will be fully repaid by the result. 
TO RENOVATE RIBBONS.— All rib 
bons can be cleaned and made like new 
by washing in cold water in which a hand- 
ful of salt has been dissolved. Do not 
wring the ribbons, but hang up to dry and 
while still damp, iron between soft papers 
THE CARE OF BOOTS AND 



SHOES.— To keep these in order, they 
must be frequently cleaned, whether worn 
or not, and care must be taken that they 
are not left in a damp place or get too 
near the fire to dry. In cleaning tnke 
care to brush and not scrape the dirt away 
from the seams. Allow the hard brush to 
do its work well and a brighter polish 
will be the result. 

NEW SHOES can be worn with as 
much ease as old ones if they are stuffed 
to the shape of the foot with cloth or 
paper and patiently sponged with hot 
water. Or, if they pinch in some par- 
ticular spot, a cloth wet with hot water, 
and laid across the place will cause imme- 
diate relief. To get comfortably fitting 
shoes, buy them in the afternoon, when 
the exercise of the day has spread the 
muscles of the feet to their largest extent. 

FOOTWEAR NEVERS. 

1. Never wear a shoe so large that the 
foot slips about. 

2. Never wear a shoe having a sole nar- 
rower than the foot. 

3. Never wear a shoe that pinches the 
heel. 

4. Never wear a shoe that does not 
allow the big toe to lie in a straight line. 

5. Never wear a shoe too tight any- 
where. 

6. Never wear sole linings to stand 
upon. Linen or duck is more healthful. 

7. Never wear one pair of shoes all the 
time unless compelled to do so. 

8. Never wear a too short stocking. 

9. Never wear a shoe having a sole 
very much turned up, as it is apt to con- 
tract the cords of the foot. 

SHOES OR BOOTS.— A mixture of 
cream and ink is good for keeping kid 
shoes and boots in good order. 

POLISH FOR BROWN SHOES.— 
Half a pint of skimmed milk, quarter 
of an ounce each of spirits of salt and spir- 
its of lavender, half an ounce of gum ar- 
able and the juice of one lemon. Mix 
well together, bottle and cork tightly. 

FOR FRENCH KID BOOTS AND 
SHOES.— Rub over three or four times 
a month with a soft rag wet with milk; 
this will keep them soft and make the 
leather last longer. 

TO CLEAN WHITE SATIN SHOES. 
— Rub with the grain with a piece of flan- 
nel dipped in spirits of wine, turning the 
flannel as it gets soiled. 

BOOTS, TO MAKE LAST.— Rub a 
very little castor oil well into the leather 
about once a month. If well rubbed m 
they will polish just as well and last much 
longer. 

TO WATERPROOF BOOTS.— To half 
a pint of linseed oil. add hal'f a pint of 



CITRIC ACID IS FROM ORANGES, LEMONS AND ONIONS. 



95 



neat's-foot oil and boil together for fif- 
teen minutes, stirring the mixture with an 
old epoou. Brush the boots thoroughly, 
and rub the oil into them before the 
fire until the leather is well saturated. 
After using, brush off the dirt, and oil 
the boots again before using. 

TO BLACK TAN SHOES.— When tan 
shoes become soiled, brush them free from 
dust and dirt, and make a strong solu- 
tion of common washing soda and boil- 
ing water — a handful of soda to a cup 
of water; well sponge the shoes with this. 
When dry, sponge over with good black 
ink, then apply blacking and polish m 
the usual way. 

TO CLEAN RUBBER SHOES.— Wash 
off the mud as soon as they are taken off, 
and when dry rub lightly with vaseline. 
They will always look like new if treated 
in this way. 

TO SHINE BOOTS QUICKLY.— D& 
not blacken but rub with a piece of or- 
ange. Let the juice dry in and then pol- 
ish with a soft brush. 

SQUEAKING BOOTS.— Soak their 
soles in linseed oil for a few days, which 
will cure the evil and render them water- 
proof. 

Pour a quart of boiled linseed oil on a 
dish and stand the boots in it. The 
oil can be used afterwards for cleaning 
purposes. 

WET BOOTS.— Wet boots must not be 
placed too near a fire nor should they be 
thrown with their soles down, anywhere 
out of the way. Set them about two 
feet from the fire, with the soles towards 
it; they will then dry gradually. If boot- 
trees are available, put them in when 
the boots are half dry, but not when they 
are quite wet. It is a good plan to place 
the boots on their sides, after coming in 
from a shower, in order that air may get 
to the hardest parts, which are the soles. 
Rub the leather well with a piece of rag 
dipped in vaseline. Stuff the shoes with 
soft paper, and then rub again with vas- 
eline. Polish in the usual way, wheiJ 
dry. 

TO REMOVE STAINS FROM 
CLOTHES. 
TEA, COFFEE OR CHOCOLATE 

STAINS. — Use boiling, hot, soft water. If 
tea stains are of long standing soak in 
glycerine and wash this out with cold 
water. 

ORANGE AND LEMON STAINS.- 

Use diluted ammonia. 

RED IRON RUST.— Make a thick 
paste of lemon juice, salt and starch and 
expose to the sun. If one application is 
not effectxial try again. Oxalic acid is 
a sure remedy for black iron rust. 



GRASS STAINS.-Alcohol will take 
these out. 

MACHINE OIL AND VASELINE 
STAINS. — Will come out easily when 
washed with soap and cold water. 

MILDEW STAINS are easily taken 
out of white goods with chloride of lime 
but do not use it on colored clothes. Put 
a small piece of lime in cold water and 
stir till it is entirely dissolved; strain it 
through cheesecloth and immerse the mil- 
dewed article. Work it up and down, 
and when the spots have disappeared, rinse 
in three or four clean waters and dry 

FRUIT STAINS.-These will come out 
of white goods if taken in time. 

Raspberry and strawberry stains will 
disappear if boiling, hot water is poured 
over. All other fruit stains can be re- 
moved with oxalic acid, and a bottle should 
always be kept in the laundry. Keep 
It away from childi'en as it is very poi- 
sonous. Get the acid in crystallized form, 
put in a bottle and pour cold water over. 
If part remains undissolved add water as 
the solution is used. 

This will remove fruit, ink or leather 
stains. 

Touch only the spots and rinse thor- 
oughly as soon as they disappear. 

For lace or muslin add a little ammonia 
to the first rinsing water. Dilute the 
acid at first, and make it stronger if nec- 
essary. 

When the color has been taken out of 
colored material with an acid, it can some- 
times be restored by diluted ammonia. 
Chloroform is also an excellent restorative 
of color. 

IODINE STAINS.-Treat these with 
ammonia. 

TEA STAINS FROM WHITE 
DRESSES.— Place the stained part in a 
saucer with enough gin to cover it, and 
rub with a piece of the same material 
till the stain disappears. Iron on the 
wrong side till dry. 

TO PACK A TRUNK.-Begin by 
thinking of all the things that have to be 
packed, having them laid out on the bed 
or tables, then begin to pack the trunk. 

Begin by packing boots, shoes and such 
articles as boxes, etc., at the bottom of 
the box, wrapping each one up separately 
so as to occupy as little space as possible. 

Fill up the corners and spaces with 
stockings to make a level flat layer, then 
begin to pack the neatly folded under- 
clothing, keeping the next row flat also. 

Should there be any fragile articles, 
place them between the folds of the linen. 
Of course this means when no smaller box 
is being taken. 

TO FOLD SKIRTS.— If the trunk will 
not take the skirt full length, make only 



96 



THE COLORS OF FLOWEES DEPEND ON LIGHT. 



one fold on the hips and lay a large roll of 
crumpled tissue paper where the fold 
comes, to prevent wrinkles. Fold the 
skirt towards the back, and not towards 
the front, to the width of the trunk, and 
fold it hanging, to arrange all the lines 
so they are not twisted. Fold the whole 
gown in tissue paper, and if thete are 
tapes in each side of the box, they should 
be tied to keep it in place. 

Between the dresses and underlinen put 
lavender bags, and everything will be 
delightfully perfumed. 

TO PACK WAISTS AND BLOUSES. 
— Stuff crumpled tissue paper into the 
shoulders of the bodice and bust, under 
lace, and in ribbon loops so that the waist 
conies out unwrinkled. 

These may be packed in the tray of the 
trunk but in such a way that they can. 
not move about. 

The tray will also ,take the lighter ar- 
ticles such as gloves, handkerchiefs, veils, 
ribbons, etc. 

TO PACK MILLINERY.— A small hat 
can sometimes be packed in the tray, but 
it is always best to have a separate hat 
box, to prevent them being crushed. Place 
plenty of crumpled tissue paper between 
each one in such a way that they cannot 
possibly move about, and put them to the 
sides as far as practicable; in this way 
they caunot be injured. 

CLOTHES CREASED IN PACKING. 
— When clothes have been creased in pack- 
ing, shake them out vigorously and hang 
in a warm room for several hours. 

BLACK GREASE STAINS FROM 
CLOTHING.— Wash with soap and cold 
water. Hot water would only set the 
marks. 

GREASE SPOTS ON SILK OR 
WOOLEN GOODS. — Place a piece of por 
ous brown paper over the spot and pass 
a hot iron quickly over; at once remove 
the sheet of paper and repeat until the 
spot disappears. 

Or, bottle a quart of boiling water, an 
ounce of pulverized borax and half an 
ounce of gum camphor; shake together 
and sponge the spots with this. 

Chloroform is excellent for taking grease 
spots out of clothes; it will not injure the 
color of the most delicate shades of silk. 

GREASY BLACK SILK OR SATIN. 
— The greasy appearance of black silk or 
satin is best removed by sponging with 
unsweetened gin. 

TO RESTORE COLOR TO SILK.— 
If the color has been removed by acid, 
i^ can generally be restored by applying 
a little sal-volatile. 

TO RE:\rOVE MUD STAINS FROM 
SILK. — Mud stains can usually be re- 
moved from silk by rubbing with a piece 



of flannel. If the stain proves obdurate, 
rub with a piece of linen saturated with 
alcohol. . 

CARE OF THE SKIRT.— Much can 
be done to lengthen the life of a good silk 
skirt. If it has been worn in the street, 
it should never be put away with its ac- 
cumulation of dust and mud on it. First, 
shake it to remove the loose dust, and then 
brush the dry mud off gently with a mod- 
erately hard brush. Never use a very 
stiff one, as it will tear up some of the 
delicate threads. If the mud marks are 
still visible, sponge these stains with al- 
cohol, which will leave the skirt clean and 
bright. No skirt should be brushed till 
quite dry, nor hung away when damp, nor 
thrown down any way, as it will contract 
creases that cannot be easily removed. 
Iron carefully on the wrong side and re- 
pair any worn braid, etc. 

TO MEND LACES.— The lace must be 
basted face downward very minutely onto 
blue paper (shelf paper is the best). Use 
a very tine needle and cotton, for the 
mending use 150 cotton. When every part 
is basted mend the large holes by insert- 
ing pieces of lace, overcasting it onto the 
torn lace, and cutting it away carefully be- 
yond the edges. The small holes to be 
filled with any stitches that resemble the 
lace. For joining laces, overcast the two 
edges, being careful to have the two pat- 
terns as much alike as possible, especially 
the edges, and when overcasting do it in a 
zigzag manner, not to make a straight 
seam, following the lines of the heavy 
part of the pattern. Use very small 
stitches, and when the lace is cut away 
the join will be imperceptible if nicely 
done. 

To transfer lace, baste it face down- 
ward as for mending, catching every point, 
cut away the old net, and baste a piece of 
new over the pattern, then sew it on care- 
fully over every part, this will transfer the 
pattern onto the new net. 

STOCKINGS.— No woman who aspires 
to any degree of daintiness will neglect to 
keen her hose in order. Every girl should 
examine this part of her wardrobe, es- 
pecially in Summer, when low shoes ara 
worn in preference to others, and as stock- 
ings are so cheap nowadays, there is no 
excuse, even when one's means are limited, 
to go shabby in this respect. Very much 
darned stockings are unsightly, but holea 
are unpardonable. Certainly with care 
stockings will last longer than those that 
are neglected, for instance: When boots are 
taken off, the stockings should be pulled 
free from the toes and feet; this saves 
many a darn. A good idea is to wash 
stockings before they are ever worn. This 
shrinks the threads, and increases their 
durability. 



PLANTS OF A SUCCULENT NATURE EEQUIRE STRONG LIGHT. 



97 



It is desirable, if possible, to have a 
fresh pair of hose every day, but vsrhen 
this is not feasible, then turn the stockings 
inside out after taking them off and well 
shake and brush them. It is wonderful 
to see what clouds of dust arise. 

BLACK STOCKINGS.— If black stock- 
ings that stain are boiled in milk, the dye 
will not come off. German women treat 
the yarn for their home-knit stockings in 
this way, so that the dye may not come off 
on their hands. 

TO CHOOSE STOCKINGS.-Remem- 
ber that stockings should be neat, but 
never gaudy. Openwork and embroidered 
stockings are the prettiest, and make the 
ankles look smallest when the design runs 
in narrow stripes up the leg. Always buy 
the stockings large enough, as they are 
sure to shrink a little in washing. Yet, do 
not get stockings which will wrinkle on the 
feet. It is essential that a stocking should 
fit well, not only on account of the appear- 
ance, but for the comfort of the feet. 

MARKING STOCKINGS.— Stockings 
should always be marked so that pairs 
may be distinguished and kept together. 
Odd stockings should never be worn, even 
of the same pattern, or else one stocking 
may get three times as much wear as its 
fellow. 

A novel and pretty way of marking 
stockings is to embroider twin flowers — 
such as violets, daisies or forget-me-nots — 
one on each stocking. 

TO PREVENT BLACK STOCK- 
INGS FROM FADING.— Soak them, in 
salt and water before the first washing, 

TO CLEAN SWANSDOWN.— Wash it 
the same as feathers in a lather of curd 
soap and water; do not rub it, but shake it 
up and down. After washing, shake it out 
and rinse in very slightly blued water. 
When the down is somewhat raised, dry 
it before a clear fire. 

UMBRELLAS. — These require atten- 
tion to keep them in proper repair. Do 
not put a wet umbrella in the stand and 
leave to drain, for in this way the moisture 
accumulating in the silk just above toe 
ferrule causes it to rot and split into holes. 
Place it open in a dry, airy room until per- 
fectly dry. Never roll up a damp umbrella, 
and always leave it unrolled, for the tight 
roll forms creases which are apt to wear 
through. Discard all the worn out elastic 
and discolored tassels, and new ones should 
be securely fastened on. The sun ruins the 
color of an umbrella, so never use it for 
that purpose. 

In rolling up an umbrella, grasp the ends 
of the frame rods tightly with one hand 
near the handle, and roll from the opposite 
end with the other hand; otherwise it will 
be loosened and twisted while being rolled. 



VEILS should be frequently removed, 
as they collect dust which is very harmful 
to the complexion. 

THE CARE OF VELVET.— The 
proper way to care for velvet garments Is 
to notice how merchants keep their stocR 
of velvet. It is first of all unrolled, and 
s;heets of tissue paper as wide as the ma- 
terial laid over on the right side, then 
loosely folded and laid carefully away m 
boxes. 

If one has a packing trunk, or a shelved 
closet or deep, wide drawers for holding 
best gowns, lay sheets of tissue paper be- 
tween the folded breadths in the same way 
and so prevent rubbing and pressing on 
each other. 

TO CLEAN VELVETS AND SILKS. 
— Take two china or earthen bowls, each 
to contain a plentiful supply of benzine. 
Now take the article to be cleaned, and 
holding it carefully, dip the spot in one 
bowl, and knead and squeeze it in the di- 
rection of the fibre, or lengthwise of 
the fabric; be careful not to rub or wring, 
as that does the damage. Wipe the spot 
all in one direction, lengthwise of the 
stuff, using a piece of the same fabric if 
possible. Wash in one bowl and rinse in 
the other. Apply a hot iron when nearly 
dry. but velvets must be steamed after the 
benzine has been dried out. Let the ben- 
zine stard afterward to settle all the dirt, 
then pour it back into a bottle and keep 
for further use. Beware of fire or light. 

PLTJSH OR VELVET, TO RAISE 
THE PILE. — Dampen on xhe wrong side 
with clean, cold water, then bold tight 
across the face of a hot iron, and rub up 
the crushed spot with a clean, stiff brush. 

TO CLEAN A WATERPROOF 
CLOAK. — Dip the garment into clean, 
cold water, spread it out flat on the table, 
and scrub it all over with yellow soap and 
a brush. When the dirt is all removed, dip 
it in several waters to rid it of the suds, 
but do not wring out. Hang it in the air 
to dry or in the room far away from the 
fire, leaving the first moisture to drain off. 

Paint or grease spots may be removed 
by scouring on spirits of turpentine, but 
the soap will do the rest. 

Avoid hot water and drying before the 
fire. 

TO WATERPROOF SERGE AND 
TWEED.— Into a gallon of rain water 
stir one ounce each of powdered alum 
and sugar of lead, and when the mixture 
is clear, pour off the upper liquid. Im- 
merse the material to be waterproofed 
into this, leave it for twenty-four hours, 
then take out, dry and press. 

This answers for all closely woTen 
goods, and injures neither color nor texture. 
Keep the sugar of lead out of the reach of 
children, as it is poisonous. 



98 



TLAXTS WITH A SPONGY TISSUE REQUIRE MOIST SITES. 



Laundry Work 



HOME LAUNDRY WORK.— Sort all 
the clothes, keeping the fine from the 
rough ones. Wash the former first and 
then the latter in the same suds. Pour 
boiling water through any fruit stains; 
moisten grease stains in ammonia water. 
After the clothes are boiled, rinse in clean 
water, renewing it if necessary, and then 
in blue water. All articles not requiring 
starch should be hung out at once, turning 
them inside out before putting on the line. 
Dark clothes, calicoes, flannels, stockings, 
etc., should be left to the last. 

BLUEING FOR CLOTHES.— Pulver- 
ize one ounce of soft Prussian blue and 
put it in a bottle with one quart of clear 
water. Add a quarter of an ounce of 
pulverized oxalic acid. One teaspoonful 
of this mixture is sufficient for a large 
wash, and is better than the indigo blue. 

THE CLOTHES LINE.— Before hang- 
ing clothes out to dry, wipe the line with 
a damp cloth, to have it perfectly clean. 

CLOTHES-PINS.— Boil them occasion- 
ally in soap and water; then rinse in cold. 
This prevents them from marking the 
clothes. 

TO SPRINKLE CLOTHES.— Place 
the clothes carefully in a basket after tak- 
ing them ofE the line that they may be free 
from creases. When ready to sprinkle, 
turn them right side out, fold them 
smoothly, sprinkle lightly with clear water 
and place at once in the clothes basket. 

Fold, but do not sprinkle the sheets; 
shake and lay them on top; over this lay a 
thick ironing blanket and stand them in a 
cool place for the night. Clothes that have 
been sprinkled and rolled up for ironing 
will not mildew for days, even in summer, 
if kept away from the fire. 

TO STARCH LINEN.— Make a liquid 
paste with wheat starch and cold water, 
and then stir in boiling water till a stiff 
paste is formed, and immediately add 
white wax, about an ounce to a pound 
of starch or stearine. Experience alone 
will determine the quantity. Some sub- 
stitute a little butter or lard. If the linen 
should be needed very stifif, powdered gum 
arable may be added to the cold water 
with which the starch is mixed. Rub the 
strained starcli into the articles after they 
have been well wrung out, after which 
place them between dry cloths and then 
rubbed on an ironing board in one direction 
with a soft rag te distribute any lumps 
of starch. Collars, cuffs, etc., should be 



ironed dry with a het iron and using con- 
siderable pressure. The sticking of the 
iron may be prevented by drawing it while 
hot over wax and wiping with a rag 
dipped in salt. Isinglass makes a most 
delicate starch for fine muslins. 

LUSTRE ON LINEN.— For home laun- 
dered linen use a teaspoonful of gum 
arable to a pint of hot starch; this gives 
a lustre to the clothes when ironed. 

SCORCH MARK ON LINEN, if not 

too brown, may be removed by moisten- 
ing with water and laying in the sun. Re- 
peat the moistening two or three times 
and the mark will disappear. 

TO BLEACH STAINED CLOTHES. 
— After rubbing them, put them in the 
boiler with cold water and about three 
spoonfuls of kerosene; this whitens and 
disinfects the most soiled clothes. 

TO WHITEN CLOTHES.— Put chlor- 
ide of lime in a pail and pour over enough 
water to dissolve it. Stir well and leave 
to stand for a few hours; then strain off 
the water and bottle for use. Largely 
diluted it will whiten linen that has grown 
yellow from being laid away. 

TO WHITEN CLOTHES WITHOUT 
BLEACHING.— Put one ounce of oxalic 
acid into one pint of water. One cup of 
this is enough for a tub of water. Put 
the clothes into this water, stirring them 
about, and rinse them afterward. This 
mixture will not injure the finest fabrics. 

TO TAKE WRINKLES OUT OF 
CLOTHES.— All clothes, especially those 
made of linen, should be thoroughly shaken 
immediately after being passed through 
the wringer. Never allow them to remain 
in deep creases caused by heavy pressure, 
as it is difficult to remove wrinkles so 
made, if they are allowed to dry in. 

THE IRONING TABLE.— Should be 
longer than it is wide, the top covered 
with two thicknesses of blanket pinned 
perfectly smooth around the corners, and 
over this a piece of unbleached muslin or 
sheeting fastened tightly. On the right 
side have the iron stand, on the left a 
small piece of wax tied in a cloth. Beyond 
the iron and on the right side, a saucer of 
water with a piece of soft muslin to ruD 
cff any little speck of starch that may be 
found. If the irons have been badly taken 
care of they may be made smooth by rub- 
bing well with coarse salt. 



GEEMS OF VEGETABLES AND ANIMALS ORIGINATE IN THE MALE. 



99 



TO IRON CLOTHES.— Begin by iron- 
ing the sheets first, then the tablecloths, 
pulliug selvedges exactly together and per- 
fectly straight, then the napkins and 
towels. After this take the shirts, collars 
and cuffs, then the handkerchiefs, and in 
turn the finer clothes, leaving the tov^ela 
and coarse pieces until the last. 

TO REMOVE IRON MOULD.— Apply 
chlorinated soda freely, hang the article 
where the sun will reach it, and repeat 
until the stain disappears. Sometimes it 
is impossible to remove it. 

TO REMOVE MILDEW.— Rub com* 
mou soap on the damaged article and sift 
some starch over. Rub well and put out 
in the sunshine. 

Another way is to make a preparation 
of equal weights of lemon juice, salt, pow- 
dered starch, and softsoap, rub it on thick- 
ly and expose the article to the hot sun. 

TO SET COLOR.— To set the color in 
colored cotton blouses that are to be 
washed, dissolve three gills of salt in four 
quarts of hot water; put the material in 
while the water is hot, and let it remain 
until cold. 

TO WASH BLANKETS.— Shred fine 
half a bar of good yellow soap. Put it iu 
a saucepan and pour one pint of boiling 
water over, stir over the fire until it be- 
comes a thick paste, then add two table- 
spoonsful of ammonia. Have ready a tub 
of tepid water in which a tablespoonful of 
borax has been dissolved. Stir the soap 
mixture into this, put in the blankets and 
let them soak for an hour, stirring them 
about occasionally, then run them through 
a wringer, rinse in two tepid waters and 
hang out to dry. 

TO WASH CHIFFON.— First wash it 
in lukewarm water in which some dissolved 
soap has been added. This is made by 
shredding a little soap into a pan and just 
covering with water, place on the fire till 
dissolved. Add this to the washing water 
and beat with the hand until a good lather 
is raised. Put iu the chiffon and wash by 
squeezing and moving under the water till 
clean. Do not rub it. Next rinse in cold 
water to which gum arable is added. If 
the chiffon is colored add a teaspoonful 
each of vinegar and salt. When rinsed, 
squeeze as dry as possible without wring- 
ing. Place a piece of fine linen over the 
chiffon and iron with a moderately hot iron 
till nearly dry. Remove the cloth and 
finish off on the right side. 

GUM WATER FOR STIFFENING 
CHIFFON, ETC.— Procure one ounce of 
best gum arable, over this pour half a pint 
of boiling water and strain through a fine 
muslin. If put iu a bottle and tightly 
corked it will keep for some time. Use it 



in proportion of one teaspoonful to a pint 
of cold water. 

TO WASH LACE CURTAINS.— Shake 
the loose dust free. Pill the wash tub, or 
better still, the bath tub, full of warm 
water, to which has been added some dry 
soap or soap jelly — enough to make it 
soapy. Leave all night, and in the morn- 
ing pass a curtain through and through 
this to rid it of its dust. Wring out. Con- 
tinue the same with all the curtains, and 
then let the dirty water run out. Make 
another lather of warm soapy water, put 
back the curtains and leave again for some 
hours. Afterward swish them through the 
water, rinse them through cold water to 
which has been added a tinge of liquid 
blue. 

TO BLUE CURTAINS.— This requires 
care. When too lavish it will form spots, 
and liquid blue is preferable to ball blue 
for this purpose. 

TO DARKEN LACE CURTAINS.— 

To give the lace curtains the rich butten 
color they have when new, add a little 
yellow ochre to the starch, put in before 
mixing. 

TO STARCH LACE CURTAINS.-* 
This gives the necessary stiffness, and no 
more. One tablespoonful of starch mixed 
gradually with two breakfast cupfuls of 
cold water. This should be the consist- 
ency of cream. Dissolve a teaspoonful of 
borax in a little boiling water and add. 
When the kettle is fully boiling, pour grad- 
ually into the starch bowl, stirring all the 
time, until the starch is cooked, and looks 
semi-transparent. 

Pass the curtains through this, wring- 
ing out as dry as can be, and passing 
through the wringer folded as evenly as 
possible. 

N. B. — Every style of lace curtain re- 
quires a different consistency of starch. 

TO FINISH THE CURTAINS.- 

Hang them lengthwise on the line over a 
sheet, taking care they hang evenly. Iron 
them nearly dry, and to get the edges 
perfectly even, fold the curtains double 
and iron the edges at one and the same 
time, leaving the middle till the last. 

LACE CURTAINS DONE UP WITH- 
OUT IRONING.— When nicely washed 
and starched, stretch well on a carpet and 
pin down, putting a pin iu each little 
peak, and being careful to keep the cur- 
tain straight. When dry, they are ready 
to hang up, and look like new. 

Or, they can be stretched iu the frames 
that come for that purpose. 

TO PREVENT LACE CURTAINS 
STRETCHING. — When washing lace 
curtains, fold them in two lengthwise and 
tack the edges together. After they are 



100 



PORTUGAL HAS NO OAKS, BEECHES OR LIME TREES. 



washed and starched, cut the threads and 
opeu before irooing. 

TO BLEACH WHITE FLANNEL. 

— Wet the flannel in hot soapsuds, 
hang it in a barrel, under which place a 
pan of live coals; sprinkle some brim- 
stone on the coals, cover tight and let it 
remain until all the smoke is gone. 

TO WASH FLANNELS.— Shave a 
quarter of a pound of soap into a sauce- 
pan, add a quart of boiling water and 
stir on the fire until dissolved. Four this 
into a half filled tub of water at 100 de- 
grees Fahrenheit. Have another tub con- 
taining water of the same temperature 
with half a teaspoonful of household 
ammonia added. Immerse each piece of 
flannel separately in the suds (never rub 
soap on), and do not use the washboard. 
Wash by pressing and drawing through 
the hands, rubbing the soiled parts. 
Rinse at once in the clear water, wring 
through the hands or a wringer without 
twisting, shake well, and hang to dry 
immediately. Press when nearly dry 
with a warm iron, being careful not to 
have it too hot. Always wash flannels 
on a bright day, and dry them as soon as 
possible. ^ 

TO WASH COLORED FLANNELS. 

— Make the same suds as above. To the 
warm rinsing water add four tablespoon- 
fuls of white wine vinegar or a tiny bit of 
acetic acid that has been well dissolved. 

TO WASH FLANNEL GARMENTS. 
— Swish the flannels through two warm 
lathery waters, press through the hands 
or a wringer, rinse in warm water thai 
has been softened by a little soap jelly 
and ammonia, squeeze as dry as possible, 
shake, dry at once, and iron binding and 
tapes with a warm iron. This prevents 
shrinking and becoming hard. 

HARD FLANNELS.— Soak under- 
flanuels that have become hard from 
perspiration in a weak solution of soda 
and water for half an hour before they 
are washed. This will soften them. 

HANDKERCHIEFS.— These are put 
through the suds after the table linen is 
washed; then scald, rinse in clear water 
and then in slightly blue water. 

TO WASH SILK ' HANDKER- 
CHIEFS. — Be careful they do not turn 
yellow. A silk handkerchief should 
never be boiled nor have soap rubbed 
upon it. Make a lather of finely shredded 
white soap and hot water; wash the hand- 
kerchiefs and rinse them in plenty of 
cold water to remove all the soap; press 
out all the moisture possible and dry 
quickly in the sun, ironing them while 
they are still damp, but not wet. 

TO WASH DAINTY LACE.— Shred 
half a pound of good soap in a pint of 



hot water and place it in an old saucepan 
over the fire until it is dissolved. It cools 
into a smooth jelly. Whip a handful 
of this to a lather in a bowl of hot water, 
and into it put any filmy lace or hand- 
kerchiefs. Rub between the palms of the 
hands, passing it through and through 
the water, adding a few drops of house- 
hold ammonia, and let the lace remain 
until the rest of it is all washed. Rinse 
the pieces under running water till it 
comes out perfectly clear, then squeeze 
the lace between cloths. Never wring 
out the lace; squeeze it only between the 
palms of the hands. Baste the lace on a 
sheet of blotting paper, carefully open- 
ing and catching down the points; over 
this place another sheet of blotting paper, 
and put this sandwich under a heavy 
book. When dry it will look fresh and 
new. 

TO WASH REAL LACE.— If stained 
or greasy, leave it to soak for some hours 
or days in good olive oil. This restores 
to the thread that softness and smooth- 
ness which use and bad washing has im- 
paired. Then take it out and wind it 
round a bottle having the same wjdth 
top and bottom; cover it entirely with 
muslin, fastening to the lace with a few 
stitches. Fill the bottle half full of sand 
to keep it level while boiling. Plunge 
the bottle in a saucepan of cold water, 
with a small piece of soap, and if the lace 
be very diriy, a small pinch of salt, and 
let boil for an hour, pouring off the dirty 
water and adding clean. When the water 
remains perfectly clear, rinse the bottle 
in cold water to remove all the soap. 

TO IRON LACE.— After the lace has 
lain for an hour or two in the cloth, iron 
it if it be machine made, or pin it out 
if it be real. Before beginning t6' iron, 
hold the lace tight 4u the left hand by 
the footing, and with the right hand pull 
out all the picots; then lay it flat on a 
board covered with white flannel and iron 
with a moderately hot iron, passing it 
over backward and forward till the lace 
is dry. If creases are made, dab them 
lightly with a sponge moistened' with 
water and a few drops of starch, and 
iron once more. After the lace is all 
ironed, pull it crossways from left to 
right, and from right to left, and iron 
once more. This makes it soft and pliant. 

TO PIN OUT LACE.— The most sat- 
isfactory manner of doing this is to have 
a wooden drum large enough to rest on 
the knee, and pin the lace on its covering 
of ticking, but as this is rather im- 
practicable for home work, then stretch 
the lace out evenly and pin it to dry on a 
piece of linen, making the edge as straight 
ns possible, opening all the scallops and 
fastening each pimt with a pin. takimr 
care not to open them if they have kept 



INDIA PRODUCES COCOANUT, BETELNUT AND EIOE. 



101 



their original shape, and to shut Ihem 
up by twisting if they have got untwisted. 
If the lace dries too quickly during the 
operation, dampen the picots with a 
sponge. Lace should never be pinned out 
when dry, as the picots are apt to break 
and spoil the beauty of the lace. 

TO STIFFEN LACE.— Dip the lace 
when perfectly dry in thin starch, made 
as follows: Take two portions of wheaten 
starch and dissolve both in cold water. 
Boil one portion, and when partly cooled 
off, stir the cold starch into it and dilute 
the whole with cold water to the consist- 
ency of thick cream. If the lace has to be 
slightly colored, add a few drops of black 
coffee or dilute the starch with weak tea. 
The former will give it a dark cream color, 
the latter a pale greenish hue. Dip in the 
lace, squeeze it gently without wringmg 
to rid it of all superfluous liquid, then lay 
it flat on the left hand and beat for a few 
minutes with the right to work the starch 
well in. Repeat twice, then roll the lace 
in fine linen and leave till ready to iron or 
pin out. 

TO WASH NARROW EDGING.— 
Cover a wine bottle with fine white flan- 
nel and baste it on firmly with white 
cotton. On to this sew one end of the 
narrow lace, winding the length round 
firmly, and opening out the points till the 
whole is wrapped evenly round the bottle. 
Baste a piece of muslin over the whole, to 
prevent any scum settling on the lace. 
Fill the bottle with hot water, place it in 
a pan of hot water and a little soap jelly, 
and boil rapidly for ten minutes. Rinse 
under the water tap, and examine through 
the muslin to see whether the lace is of a 
good color; if not, boil it longer. 

TO IRON LACES.-Lace seldom re- 
quires stiffening and if ironed it must be 
done carefully. Iron on the wrong side, 
using the broad part of the iron, as the 
point breaks the threads. Always use a 
good thick pad of flannel and the pattern 
will stand out boldly. Use a warm iron, 
•and lay a piece of muslin between it and 
the lace. Coffee, tea, saffron and yellow 
ochre are used to give tints; blue should 
not be used for very delicate laces. 

TO WASH BROWN LINEN.— Wash 
in starch water and hay tea; it will keep 
like new until worn out. 

TO WASH SERGE.— An excellent 
way to wash serge of any color is to boil 
a little bran in a large saucepanful of 
water for a day, then strain and wash the 
material in the bran water, running a. 
white thread round any particular greasy 
or dirty parts. Hang to dry in the open 
air, then press with a hot iron and the 
serge will look like new. 

TO IRON A SHIRT.— Fold it length- 
wise from the gathers of the yoke to the 
tail and iron both sides of the back. Then 



iron the wristbands and polish them if 
necessary. Iron the sleeves, pressing them 
in proper shape. Then take the shirt 
by the shoulders and turn it front upward 
on the board, with the collar to the left 
hand. 

THE BOSOM.— Put any necessary 
pleats in the back, insert the bosom-board 
and proceed to iron the front. This should 
be pulled into shape, then ironed until 
thoroughly dry, one side at a time, while 
avoiding to make creases. 

TO POLISH.— If the bosom has to be 
polished, heat the polishing iron as hot as 
possible short of scorching the goods, and 
after ironing the front as above, remove 
the bosom board and insert one that is 
covered with one thickness of muslin only, 
and after damping the surface of one-half 
the front, polish with the polishing iron 
by quickly passing it across from side to 
side and then from base to collar, using 
considerable pressure and working with 
the back of the iron as far as possible. 
Treat the other half of the front in a 
similar manner. 

TO FINISH.— When both sides of the 
front are done, pin the collar or neckband 
together and run the iron down the centre 
and across the base of the front; after- 
wards ironing the remaining unstarched 
portions of the garment. 

Now, turn the shirt front downward on 
the board and fold neatly, pinning the 
shoulders together to round the front 
somewhat. 

Hang the shirt before the fire to thor- 
oughly dry and harden the work. 

SHIRTS AND COLLARS. — When 
these come home from the steam laundry, 
take a clean, wet rag and rub the edges 
of the shirt collar, wristbands and both 
edges of collars. This does not disturb 
the gloss, but removes the sawlike rough- 
ness. It will certainly please our hus- 
bands, fathers, sons and brothers, as it 
will prevent sore necks and wrists. 

TO WASH SILK.— Avoid four things 
— rubbing, wringing, soap and heat. 
Use lukewarm water and with a little dis- 
solved soap make a lather for very dirty 
pieces; if not, use bran water. Never let 
the piece of whole soap come in contact 
with silk. Take hold of one end of the 
article and turn it round and round till 
clean. Rinse in cold water, adding one 
dessertspoonful of vinegar to a quart of 
water. Place between dry cloths and 
squeeze, or else pass through the wringer. 
Shake out all the superfluous moisture 
and iron at once with a warm iron, with 
a piece of tissue paper over the silk. 

TO WASH CROCHET OR KNITTED 
WOOL SHAWLS.— Boil the water with 
soap to make a good lather, instead of 
rubbing the soap on the shawl, as this 
hardens the wool. Soak well in the soapy 



102 



WHEAT WILL NOT GROW IN" THE SOUTH SEA ISLANDS. 



water and cleanse by squeezing and mov- 
ing about, not rubbing. After washing 
in this manner in two waters, spread a 
clean white cloth on the table, and lift 
the article out onto the cloth without 
squeezing; wrap the cloth over it and pass 
through the wringer as thickly folded as 
it will allow. Then remove it from the 
cloth, shake and dry quickly. The shawl 
will look like a newly worked one. Or, it 
can be left in a mass on the cloth, and 
moved around occasionally until dry; this 
keeps it beautifully. 

TO WASH SOCKS.— Steep scarlet 
socks first in salt and water, and soak 
ordinary socks in warm soapy water after 
rubbing the soles and heels with soap. 
Wash on the wrong side in the second 
water, rinse in clean warm water, adding 
a few drops of ammonia; squeeze and dry 
at once. 

TO WASH STOCKINGS.— Fill two 
pails half full of tepid water. In one 
make a light suds, in the other put ten 
drops of ox-gall. Turn the stockings on 
the right side, wash them quickly through 
the suds; then turn, wash on the wrong 
side, and rinse in the gall water. Run 
through a wringer; hang carefully on the 
line top up, and dry in the shade. Do not 
soak nor allow them to stand in the suds. 
When nearly dry press on the wrong side, 
folding the same as when new. 

TO WASH BLACK LISLE STOCK- 
INGS.— To wash black lisle thread stock- 
ings never use soap, but make a lather 
with bran as follows: 

Sew into a muslin bag about a teacup- 
ful of bran, and shake this about in tepid 
water till it lathers. Wash the stockings 
in this, and after taking them from the 
water, roll them up in a clean cloth. Then 
wring out well and dry before a quick 
fire, not in the open air. This will pre- 
serve their color. 

If stockings have turned a rusty color, 
they can be restored by boiling them in a 
quart of water into which some logwood 
shavings have been thrown. 

TO WASH TABLE LINEN.— Remove 
all stains before putting it in soapsuds. 
They will come out more easily. 

COFFEE OR TEA STAINS.— Stretch 
the stained part over a large bowl. Dis- 
solve one level teaspoonful of borax in a 
quart of boiling water and pour through 
the linen till the stain disappears. 

FRUIT.— Soak in whiskey, or make a 
solution of chloride of lime, allowing one 
ounce to a pint of water. Put the stained 
part into either of these, and rub till the 
mark disappears; then wash in several 
clean waters. 

INK.— Soak in milk, changing occasion- 
ally, till the stain disappears, and wash 
in the usual way. 

WINE.— Sprinkle well with salt, stretch 



over a bowl, and pour boiling water 
through. 

TO IRON TABLECLOTHS. — Wher 

ironing tablecloths never move the iron 
across from side to side, but from end to 
end. Ironing across pulls them out of 
shape and they do not lie flat on the table. 

TO WASH TABLE NAPKINS.— In 
France they never starch tabli napkins, 
but after they are washed and dried they 
are dipped in boiling water and partially 
wrung out between cloths, then rapidly 
ironed with as hot a flat iron as possible 
without burning them. This makes them 
glossy and look like new. When fringed, 
dip the fringe in a basin of hot water, 
wring dry and shake. It will require no 
combing, but will be ready to iron. 

TO IRON NAPKINS.— Fold these the 
same as tablecloths with the selvedges to- 
gether; then iron straight up and down, 
with the warp, not across. First fold 
them wrong side out, then back evenly to 
the edges; in this way they can be easily 
opened. If there is an initial then fold 
outside. The plain ordinary fold is pre- 
ferred to the fancy folds in most families. 

TO WASH COLORED TIES.— First 
steep them in salt and water to stay the 
color, and then wash quickly through 
warm water, having added enough soap 
jelly to make a good lather. Rinse in cold, 
clear water, and iron at once with a mod- 
erately warn; iron through a damp cloth. 
White pique ties should be starched with 
borax and water, or water in which rice 
has been boiled. The above washing also 
applies to silk ties. 

TO WASH SILK TIES.— Boil some 
bran in water and wash the ties in this 
after straining it; rinse in clear water, 
having a small lump of salt added; iron 
when slightly damp. If this mode ol 
washing ties is followed they will last for 
years. 

TO WASH WHITE SILK TIES.— 
Shred good yellow soap, put it in a tin 
saucepan, cover with soft water and boil 
till a clear fluid is obtained. Make a good 
lather with warm water and this soap 
jelly. Put in the ties, squeeze, but do not 
rub them in the lather until they are clean, 
then rinse in tepid water and dry in 
cloths. Afterward iron under a piece of 
soft linen. 

TO WASH SHIRT WAISTS.— Pre- 
pare a tub of warm suds and add one tea- 
spoonful of ammonia to each gallon of 
water. Put in the waists, soaping the 
very dirty parts, and leave to soak for 
half an hour. Add a little more hot water, 
wash thoroughly, rubbing on more soap if 
the dirt will not come out easily. Wring 
out of the suds, and throw into another 
tub of lukewarm water; rub the waists 
lightly through this, rinse in cold water 



TI-IE CINNAMON-TEEE IS A KTATIVE OF CEYLON". 



10^ 



and all light or white ones in water slightly 
blued. Wrinj^, shake well, so that the blue 
streaks do not show after drying. 

TO STARCH SHIRT WAISTS.— Hot 
starch them directly after wringing out 
the rinsing \vater. Wet a quarter of a 
pound of starch in cold water; stir briskly 
while pouring over enough boiling water to 
turn it; when about the thickness of cream 
stir in half a pint of cold water, turn the 
waists inside out and dip into the starch. 
Wring dry, shake and hang out to dry. 
This amount of starch will be enough for 
five waists. 

Cold Starching. — This is done when the 
waists are dry. Put a small handful of 
starch in a basin, mix with cold water, 
rubbing out all the lumps with the fingers. 
Dissolve a good teaspoonful of borax in 
hot water, add it to the starch with enough 
tepid water to make a quart in all. MaKe 
less if there are only one or two waists to 
iron. Try the starch with a piece of mus- 
lin, dip it in and wring out; if bits of 
starch stick, add more water. 

Turn the waist inside out. Fold the cuffs 
together, dip in the starch till well sat- 
urated and wring dry. Treat the collars 
and cuffs the same way. Spread the damp 
parts on the dry, roll very ti.^htly, and 
leave till dry enough to iron; this depends 
on the weather, and if the starch slicks to 
the iron, then it is not dry enough. In 
damp weather starch the evenijig before 
ironing. 

TO IRON SHIRT WAISTS.— The iron 
must be hot, but not enough to scorch the 
cloth on which it is wiped. Turn the waist 
right side out, iron the sleeves, putting in 
a sleeve board, if there is one. Pull the 
cuffs into shape and iron, first on the 
wrong side, then on tie right, never iron- 
ing the wrong side after the outside is be- 
gun. Move the iron backward and for- 
ward till the cuff is quite dry. 

TO POLISH THE CUFFS.— Put the 
polishing board under the cuff, dip a piece j 



of muslm in cold water, wring fairly dry, 
and rub it over the ironed cuff. Rub the 
cuff backward and forward with a very 
clean polishing iron, using a heavy even 
pressure till it is quite dry again. Iron tUe 
ether sleeve and cuff in the same way. 

TO IRON THE COLLAR AND 
FRONT. — Iron all the unstarched part of 
the waist, the front the last. Iron the 
tucks wrong side out, up and down. The 
band is ironed the same as the cuffs, also 
the collar. If the starched parts are too 
dry, dampen slightly on the right side. 
Insert the shirt board into the front. Rip 
any parts of the waist that wiil not iron 
easily, and when aired sew them up again 
IRONING BOARDS AND IRONS 
FOR SHIRT WAISTS.— A shirt board is 
necessary if the waists have starched 
fronts: this to be sixteen inches long by 
ten wide; cover with two thicknesses oH 
flannel, and an outer covering of white 
muslin. The polishing board is the same 
size, the only covering being one thickness 
of muslin. A sleeve board is useful, but 
can be dispensed with. A polishing iron 
has a round surface; they are difficult to 
use at first, but this trouble is soon over- 
come. Have ironing board. Iron wipei 
and irons perfectly clean; use beeswax on 
occasionally to keep them smooth. 

MIRROR LAUNDERING.— This is 
much practiced by clever women who dare 
not trust their dainty handkerchiefs to the 
care of a laundry or washwoman. 

Wash the handkerchief as clean as pos- 
sible, putting a very little blue in the water 
if necessary. Rinse it several times, then 
plaster it up against a mirror or a window- 
pane to dry, being careful that every par- 
ticle of dust is previously wiped off. In 
spreading the article on the glass, pull all 
the embroidered edges evenly and see that 
the square of cambric sets straight and 
even. ^ When dry and has peeled off the 
glass it will have the peculiar gloss of un- 
washed lawn. 



104 CORK IS THE BARK OF A TREE GROWING IN EUROPE AND ASIA. 



Needlework and Fancy Work 



NEEDLEWORK SUGGESTIONS.— 
"Use a ueedle with an eye sufficiently large 
to carry the thread easily. 

Adapt the needle and cotton to each 
and to the quality of the goods to be 
worked. Never bite cottou, but cut it with 
the scissors. 

Alwavs use the cotton from the end 
which comes from the reel. Thread the 
needle before cutting tlie cotton. In work- 
ing help the needle in with the thumb. 
Do not stoop over your work. 

NEEDLES. — In order to test a needle 
try to break it; if it resists and then 
breaks in two tlie steel is good; if it bend 
without breaking or break without any 
resistance the steel is bad. Never use a 
bent needle, for it makes irregular stitches, 
and see that the eye can be well drilled. 
A ueedle should always be a little thicker 
than the thread, so it passes easily through 
the goods. A sliort needle does the fast- 
est sewing. To keep needles from rusting 
strew a little alum in the pockets and 
have a small box handy to powder damp 
fingers with. Thread a needle over some- 
thing white. Draw a blackened ueedle 
through an emery bag. 

SCISSORS. — Two varieties of scissors 
are indispensable for the work table; a 
pair of large shears for cutting out, having 
one blunt and one sharp point, keeping 
the latter always downward, and a smaller 
pair having two sharp points. The handles 
should be wide and round, for if tight 
they tire and disfigure the hand. 

THIMBLES. — Steel thimbles are con- 
sidered the best, for silver ones are not 
sufliciently dented to hold the needle, and 
bone are liable to break, although many 
object to steel thimbles as they discolor 
the finger and therefore use silver in pref- 
erence. 

STITCHES. — Plain sewing comprises 
four varieties of stitching, viz., running, 
back stitching, hemming and overcasting. 
Then there is the French double seam, 
the hemmed double seam, gathering and 
whipping. All these are too well known 
to need further explanations. 

BUTTON HOLES IN DRESS MA- 
TERIALS. — Mark out and cut them the 
same as for the linen button holes; if, 
liowever, the material be liable to fray, 
wet the slit as soon as it is cut with 
liquid gum and lay a strand of strong 
thread along the edge to work the stitches 
over. One end of dress button holes rau>.t 



be round, the stitches diverging like rays 
from the cer tre, and when the second side 
is worked thread the needle with tlie loose 
strand and pull it slightly: to straighten 
the edges, then fasten off and close the 
button hole with a straight bar of stitches 
across the other end. 

BUTTON HOLES IN LINEN.— Cut 

the hole perfectly straight and exactly 
the diameter of the button, having marked 
out its place with two rows of running 
stitches, two or three threads apart. In- 
sert the needle at the back of the slit 
and take up about three threads, bring 
the thread round from right to left under 
the point of the needle and draw the needle 
out through the loop, so that the little 
knot comes at the edge of the slit, and, 
so on, to the end, vorking from the lower 
left hand corner to the right. Then make 
a bar of button hole stitching across each 
end, the knotted edge towards lue slit. 

EYELET HOLES.— Outline them very 
carefally by running a thread round, then 
cut out the enclosed stuff with sharp 
pointed scissors and edge the hole with 
plain overcasting stitches worked from 
left to right. VVhen a long row of them 
are to be made, outline the upper and lower 
halves alternately, first on one side, then 
on the other, using two threads, and then 
overcast them the usual way. This dou- 
ble crossing makes them stronger than 
if each hole were finished off separately. 

For shaded eyelet holes work the lower 
halves with very short stitches and the 
upper halves with long ones. They may 
be edged entirely eit'ier with button holing 
or overcasting, or half with one and half 
with thi other. 

SEWING ON BUTTONS.— To sew 
webbed or linen buttons to underclothing 
fasten in the thread with a stitch or two 
at the place the button is to be. Bring 
the needle out through the middle of the 
button and make eight stitches the shape 
of a star. This done, bring the needle 
out between the stuff and the button and 
twist the cotton six or seven times round 
it, then push the needle through to the 
wrong side and fasten off. 

For a four lioled button place it on 
the material and lay a pin crosswise over 
the holes. Sew over the pin crosswise 
with strong thread, then remove the pin 
nnd the button will give slightly. \^'ind 
the thread a few times roand the thread 
J betwetn the button and the material and 



OKTIONS POSSESS MORE NOURISHMENT THAN ANY OTHER VEGETABLE. 105 



finish fcs usual. This slightens the strain 
and makes the material last longer. 

DARNING. — In darning run the threaO 
cf the darning cotton so far on each side 
of the hole that it does not immediately 
fray and pull out the stuff. Begin with 
a long thread of darning cotton and run 
it at least half an inch along the stuff on 
each side of the hole, continue till the hole 
IS well covered, then cross these threads 
in regular darning style, using the same 
precaution. This darn will wear as long 
as if no hole existed. Wheu only a few 
of the threads are torn or missing a 
darn will repair the mischief, provided 
the surrounding parts be sound. When 
the damage is more extensive the piece 
must be cut out. 

HERRING BONING.— This stitch is 
chiefly used for seams on flannel and 
for overcasting tires'^ seanrs and takes the 
place of hi-mming for fastening do vn the 
raw edges of a soam that has beon run 
or stitched without turning in. Herring 
bcning is done from left to right and 
forms two rov.'s of sti'clies. Insert the 
needle from right ti) left and make a 
stitch iirst al oro and then below the 
edge, the threads crossing each other diag- 
onally. 

HEM STITCHING.— Draw out, ac- 
cording to the coarseness of the goods, 
two or four threads below the edee of 
the turning, and tack tiie hem down to 
the line thus drawn. Fasten the thread 
in to the left, and work the hem from 
right to left, taking up three or four 
cross threads at a time anl insertinej the 
needle immediately above iato the folded 
hem three or four stitches from the edge, 
and then draw it out. 

The same stitch is used for preventing 
the fringes of towels and napkins from 
raveling out. 

FEATHER STITCHING.— Insert the 
needle in from the back and work down- 
wards or from left to right. Take a short, 
slightly diagonal stitch from left to right, 
while holding down the thread with the 
left hand thumb, draw the stitch up loose- 
ly and make another stitch the same way 
from right to left, and alternate to the end 
of the work. 

The double feather stitch is made by 
forming two small stitches on each side 
instead of one. 

TO STROKE GATHERS.— After the 
gathering thread is run in, draw it up 
tight, and make it fast over the forefinger 
of the left hand, then stroke down the 
gathers with a strong needle, so they lie 
evenly side by side, putting each gather in 
stroking it under the left thumb, while 
the stuff is 9Upported at the back with tho 
other fingers. 



An excellent and quick way is to fill 
the needle with the gathers, and while 
holdmg it firmly, pull the material down 
tjghlly and the strokes will form them^ 
selves. 

WHALE-BONES, TO USE.— Before 
slipping the whalebone into its case or fold 
of stuff, pierce holes in it top and bottom 
with a red hot stiletto. Through these 
holes make stitches diverging like rays 
or crossing .each other. 

Bent whalebones can be straightened 
by being soaked in cold water for a few 
hours. 

TO STRAIGHTEN WHALEBONE. 
— Whalebone bent by wear can be straight- 
ened again by holding it before the fire; 
when it begins to bend with the heat, flat- 
ten and straighten it carefully with the 
hand. It will be as good as new and can 
be used over and over again. 

BEADING. — A pattern is generally fol- 
lowed, sewing on the beads; take the out- 
side stitch sufficiently long to allow the 
beads to lie flat withcut showing the holes, 
and the inside stitch to be one or two 
threads of the material only, not to leave 
too much space between each bead, nor 
yet to crowd them too closely together. 

BRAIDING. — A very easy style of or- 
namentation for bodices, jackets and 
skirts is that known as braiding. The 
pattern can be stamped upon tho material, 
or else a tissue paper pattern is secure- 
ly basted on, and after the braiding is 
finished it can be easily torn away. The 
braids are either of wide and narrow silk, 
wool, gold or other fancy materials. 
Couching silk and gold thread are both 
very effective when worked very evenly, 
across or close to the braids. The best de- 
signs are geometrical figures, leaves and 
oonventional patterns. 

MENDING BASKET.— Every home 
should possess one of these. It should 
contain scissors of every kind, cottons, 
threads, darning cottons and wool, tape 
measure, tapes, a bodkin, a good stock 
of needles, pins hooks and eyes, buttons, 
braid, etc. Let all articles to be mended 
be placed therein, and if possible attack 
your basket on a regular day. If this 
is done systematically, all accumulations 
will be avoided. 

WOOLS. — Wools should never be 
wound into a ball, as the least handling 
crushes their pile and spoils them. They 
must be nested, that is, unwound, and 
piled in a nest form on a piece of paper, 
being careful to keep the end. If wound 
do so very loosely over the fingers without 
barely touching the wool. 

Chenille requires even more careful 
handling. 



106 



THERE ARE SIXTY SPECIES OF THE PEPPER TREE, 



FANCY WORK. 
TRACING PAPER— Mix together by 
a gentle heat, one ounce of Canada bal- 
sam aol a quarter of a pint of spirits 
of turpentine. With a soft brush spreao 
it thinly over one side of good tissue pa- 
per. This dries quickly, is very trans- 
parent and not ^'reasy, so does not stau, 
tlie work or paper to which it is applied. 
TO TRACE PATTERNS AGAIN F^- 
A WINDOW PANE.— First tack or i i 
the piece of stuff or paper on which the 
copy is to be made upon the pattern. If 
it is a small pattern this may be dis- 
persed with and the two sheets held firm- 
ly pressed asrainst the window pane with 
the left hand, the ri.t-ht hand doinsr the 
tracing, but it is safer to pin or gum tlie 
fonr corners of the two sheets together, 
for if they become separate"! it is hard to 
join them again exactly. Trace with a 
pencil or a brush dipped in India ink or 
water color paint. . 

If the hand is apt to tire, then stick the 
sheets to the pane with strong gum or 
suspend them on a string fastened across 
the pane by pins stuck into the window 
frame on both sides. 

TO REPEAT PATTERNS WITH 
LOOKING GLASSES.— Sometimes it is 
found necessnry to adapt embroidery y^at- 
terns to certain given proportions. Tins 
can be done by means of two nnframed 
looking-glasses used as follows: If you 
want to utilize a pi.^ce only of a strai^lil 
"border, or after repeating it several time-., 
to form a corner with it, in the first in- 
stance, place the mirror across it at right 
angles at the place from which the pat- 
tern is to be repeated and then exactly 
diagonally inwards. . , , 

To make a square out of a straight pat- 
tern, take two mirrors and so place them 
that they touch at the point where the 
diagonals meet, and the square is forri.c.'. 
First considfr which parts of the d: aw- 
ing will best fill the centre as not every 
part of a straight pattern can be repeated. 
TO STIFFEN NEW NEEDLEWORK. 
— After making a piece of lace or any 
other kind of work and embroidery, take 
it off its foundntion and lay it face down- 
wards on a piece of fine white flannel. 
Dip a piece of very stiff new lawn into 
water, take it out immediately, wring it 
slightly so no drops may fall from it, and 
then dab the wrong side of the lace all 
over, and iron with a hot Iron, moving 
it slowly backwards and fcrvvards so that 
t)ie moisture which the lawn has impart'^d 
to the lace may be slowly evaporated. 
Take it from the beard only when the 
lace is dry. This 'S the best way of giv- 
ing new lace its correct stiffness; water not 
being sufficient, starch is too stiff but thr- 
new organdie supplies the needful quan- 
tity. 



EMBROIDERY STITCHES.— Many 
frequently buy articles ready traced foi 
working and are often puzzled to know 
how to work the various stitches neces- 
sary to be used. 

STAR STITCH. -These can be used iu 
a variety of ways, either to ornament 
children's frocks and tray cloths or serve 
as a good background for large, bold de- 
signs. When the stars which have always 
four crossings, are pretty large, put a 
small stitch in the centre to secure the 
lines where they cross, that is, when over 
a quarter of an inch across. 

ARROW STITCH.— This is simple; a 
long, straight stitch springs from a V- 
shaped one. When worked small it can 
be powdered over a background at regular 
intervals, 

CORDING STITCH.— Hold the thread 
undtr the needle and make stitches all on 
one side at legular intervals, like feather 
stitch, but done on one side only. 

CHAIN STITCH.— Bring the needle 
out at the right side of the material, hold 
the thread under the left hand thumb, put 
the needle in again where it was first 
brought out, and bring it out a little way 
down and over the thread. Draw through, 
and then put the needle in again to the 
loop just formed, 

DOUBLE CHAIN STITCH. —Two 
lines of chain stitches are made and be- 
tween them the thread is laced backwards 
and forwards. Keep the loops of the chain 
in each row opposite each other or the lac- 
ing will be crooked and the effect spoiled. 

ROPE STITCH.— This is very effective 
worked either iu fine cotton or coarse 
Avool. Begin the same as the chain stitch, 
and to work the next stitch put the needle 
at the left behind the stitch just formed, 
keeping the thread under the needJe: bring 
the latter out a little beyond the last 
stitch, and continue the same. 

FANCY HERRING BONING.— This 
is done somewhat on the principle of her- 
ring-bone, only that the needle is pointed 
downwards, and the stitch taken perpen- 
dicularly instead of horizontally, the thread 
being kept to the right for the upper 
stitch and to the left for the lower. 

FANCY CHAIN STITCH.— After two 
loops have been formed the same as a plain 
chain stitch, put the needle back under the 
last loop, and bring it down to form an- 
other chain stitch. 

KENSINGTON OR FLAT STITCH 
EMBROIDERY. — This is the embroidery 
used for linen, silk, satin, velvet, etc.. and 
the most suitable designs are conventional 
flowers and decorative patterns. Natural 
flowers should be executed so as to pro- 
duce the effect of a painting. 



GREEN" TEAS ARE CHIEFLY PRODUCED IN PROVINCE OP KIANGUAN. 107 



KENSINGTON OR ENCROACHING 
STITCH. — Small, delicate flowers, leaves 
and arabesques should be worked in plain 
flat stitches or in dove-tailed or encroach- 
ing stitch. These consist of a long and a 
short stitch, one encroaching into the other 
and must lay perfectly flat. The shading 
depends on the object that is being worked. 

TO EMBROIDER FLOWERS AND 
LEAVES. — xilways work flowers and 
leaves from the point, never from the calyx 
or stalk. If they are to be shaded, begin 
by choosing the right shade for the out- 
side edge, varying the depth according to 
the light in which the flower is supposed 
to be placed. The stitches should run one 
into another, making first a long stitch, 
then a short, so that the next row dove- 
tails into the last one. 

To make a faithful copy of a natural 
flower, take either the flower itself or 
a colored drawing of it, match the col- 
ors in five or six shades by the flower itself, 
keeping them all rather pale in tone. 

The colors of the leaves and petals 
which should always be worked from the 
outside, should be chosen to blend well 
together. Leave the stamens and centres 
of the flowers till the last, but the veins 
and ribs of the leaves should be put in 
before the grounding. 

Select suitable materials for these em- 
broideries; the more delicate the design, 
the softer and finer should be the quality 
of the material. Filoselle silk, one or two 
strands is the best for fine muslin and 
linen. 

COUCHING STITCH.— This is laying 
down on the outline of the design, a thick 
strand of filoselle, or cord or wool or silk 
of any kind and then overstitch it down at 
regular intervals with a fine silk of the 
same or contrasting color. 

STEM STITCH IN FLOWERS, ETC. 
— ^These are worked straight, but each 
Stitch of a different length from the other. 
Commence the work at the lowest part 
of the petals and work upwards. 

SPLIT STEM STITCH.— Having 
worked one stitch, in making the second 
split the first stitch in the centre with 
the needle. 

TAPESTRY OR CANVAS EM- 
BROIDERY.— This is one of the oldest 
kinds of needlework, and is ever popular. 
There are two sorts of canvas used for 
tapestry, plain or single thread, and the 
"Penelope" or double thread ; this is easier 
to count the stitches on, but both are 
equally good foundations for the embroid- 
edy. Java linen is a good substitute, its 
close texture not requiring any grounding. 

Tapestry can be worked either in the 
hand or in a frame. The stitches should 
lean all one way, and the underneath 
ones from left to right. The few follow- 



ing simple stitches will assist the worker, 
and from them more elaborate ones caa 
be executed. 

CROSS STITCH.— Is the foundation 
of every other stitch; it is also called mark- 
ing stitch, being used for marking linen. 
It is worked in two lines; in the first the 
thread is carried diagonally from left to 
right across a square of threads, then 
downwards underneath the two horizontal 
threads. In the second, the stitches are 
carried from the right hand lower corner 
of the square to the upper left hand 
corner, so that the four points of the two 
stitches form a perfect square. 

HALF CROSS STITCH.— If the can- 
vas is too fine to make the double stitch, 
carry the thread back along the whole 
line and make the half stitches across it 
from left to right. This is also done in a 
piece of partly finished purchased work. 

RICE STITCH.— Pill in the whole 
ground first with large cross stitches over 
four threads each way, and upon these 
make the rice stitches in a finer quality 
of cotton or other material. These cross 
the four points of the large cross stitches 
and meet in the space between where they 
form another cross. 

BROAD CROSS STITCH.— A cross 
worked over two cross and four horizon- 
tal threads, useful for filling in large sur- 
faces, as it works twice as quickly as or- 
dinary cross stitch. Vary it by turning 
the crosses first one way and then the 
other. 

GOBELIN STITCH.— Is worked over 
two horizontal threads and one vertical. 
In a frame the second row can be worked 
from right to left, otherwise turn the 
work round and bring the needle out be- 
hind the last made stitch. 

For a wide Gobelin stitch, cover two 
vertical and two horizontal threads, ad- 
vancing one thread of the canvas at a 
time. 

STEM STITCH.— Work the stitches in 
separate rows over four threads each way. 
The working thread passes first under 
the two middle threads, from right to 
left and then under the two uppers. 

CASHMERE STITCH.— Make one ver- 
tical stitch over one crossing of the can- 
vas threads, and then two stitches over 
two crossings. 

FLORENTINE STITCH.— This is 
worked in slanting lines, the thread being 
carried diagonally first over one and thea 
over two threads of the canvas. 

PARISIAN STITCH.— For silk, can- 
vas, cotton or linen materials, and makes 
a good grounding when the stuff is not to 
be completely hidden. Worked perpendic- 
ularly, one long stitch over one thread; 
alternate the stitches in each row. 



108 BLACK TEAS ARE GROWN" CHIEFLY IN" THE PROVINCE OP FO-KIEX. 



"WHITE EMBROIDERY.— Use a loose, 

soft (■( Ui I), tiie luusei- tlie better, aud very 
little twisted. Outline with a coarser cot- 
ton tliau tlie enibroi.'lery itself. Nerer 
begin the work with a knot in the cotton 
except iu vory rare cases, finish o£E the 
thread by drawing it through the tracing 
stitches or some part of the finislied work. 
Fill in t!ie spaces between the lines with 
a padding of run threads, run loosely, hav- 
ing it thicker in the centre than on the 
sides. T'ue beauty of tho work depends 
on this foundation. Only skilful work- 
ers can dispense with a frame or a back- 
ing of oilcloth. 

TO EMBROIDER SCALLOPS.— Out- 
line and pad them, and while working 
be careful to adapt the length of the 
sitches to the shape and size of the scal- 
lops. If they are pointed set the stitches 
very closely together on the under line, 
allowing a little pUy o.i the ou^er line 
to come exactly to the point which should 
be very sharply defined. 

Rose scallops are large buttonholed 
scallops with indented edges, in one case 
rounded at the top and sharply pointea 
at the joint, in the other pointed at the 
top and joined at the bottom by a straight 
bar of button holing. 

FRENCH KNOTS.— Hold the working 
thread down with the thumb close to the 
spot where the needle has been brought 
out, twist the thread twice round the 
needle, turn the needle round from left 
to right, place it through the material 
just back of the stitch and draw it out 
at the place the next stitch is to be then 
remove the thumb and the knot will be 
formed. 

RENAISSANCE EMBROIDERY.— 

This is the term applied to embroidery 
designs worked entirely in buttonholing 
and connected by button hole bars wita- 
out picots. 

RICHELIEU EMBROIDERY.— The 
same kind of embroidery as the Renais- 
sance, but the connecting bars insteai 
of being left plain are ornamented with 
picots. 

VENETIAN EMBROIDERY.— Scal- 
lops worked in very high relief, called 
Venetian embroidery, are an imitation on 
stuff of Venetian lace. Real Venetian 
point is entirely needle made; in the em- 
broidered imitations of it the stuff takes 
the place of the needle made lace founda- 
tion. To make it more like the original 
the ground is seldom left plain, lint is 
covered with fancy stitches or with dam- 
ask stitches. The buttonhole bars may 
be made with or without picots. The 
space to be buttonholed must be well 
padded, for thereon depends the roundness 
of the embroidery. For this purpose take 
MX or eight threads of cotton and fasten 
them down onto the pattern with loose 



fctitches, laying on extra threads and cut- 
ting them gradually away, according to 
the width of the line is to be. The stuff 
underneath the bars should only be cut 
away when the embroidery is quite fin- 
ished. 

TO WASH COLORED EMBROID- 
ERY COTTONS.— To test the fastness 
of the dyes untie the skeins and pour 
boiling water over; leave to soak for 
a quarter of an hour, soap and rub light- 
ly with the hand, rinse well in many 
changes of cold water until this remains 
perfectly colorless. Squeeze eut all the 
water and dry quickly without exposing 
to the sun. If a piece of work has been 
done with unwashed cottons and the colors 
run in the washing, rinse out in several 
changes of tepid water and restore it to 
its original freshness, aud should a yel- 
lowish tint be wanted dip in weak tea 
or coffee. 

TO WASH EMBROIDERY SILK.— 
Do not use scalding water, washing pow- 
der, and avoid hard wringing. Do not 
fohl or roll the article while wet. 

Make a lather with good white soap 
and tepid water, wash the article lightly, 
rinse thoroughly and dry quickly. Iron 
on the wrong side, having a wet cloth 
over the work, and press the Iron well 
onto this. In this way the embroidery 
will stand out in relief. 

RENAISSANCE OR BATTENBERG 
LACE.— This lace is made with braid or 
tape formed into figures joined together 
by needlemade, corded or buttonhole bars, 
and fillings of different kinds, or bars 
alone. 

The lace stitches and bars are almost 
the same as used in fine Venetian point, 
but are executed in a coarser material. 

The rings that are used in this work can 
be purchased already buttonholed, which 
saves much time aud labor, 

MATERIALS FOR RENAISSANCE 
LACE.— The braids for this lace vary in 
shade, width and thickness, and are to be 
had white, unbleached, gray and pale yel- 
low, narrow or wide, coarse or fine in 
texture, with or without holes, open edge 
and picots, large or small medallions. 

For the stitches and bars use a smooth, 
even lace thread, made in every color to 
match the braids. 

TRANSFERRING DESIGNS FOR 
RENAISSANCE LACE.-The best way 
is to trace them on oiled tracing linen with 
a watery ink, free of grease. This linen 
is white, glazed on one side only. Turn 
the unglazed surface uppermost, for it 
takes the ink better; as this linen is quite 
transparent, the pattern can be trans- 
ferred to it at once withoat any other 
process. 

The designs are almost all drawn with 



THE TEA OP PARAGUAY IS CALLED CAS. 



109 



double lines, between which the braid is 
tacked on with small back stitches. Either 
make these stitches all of one length or 
else have them longer on the right side 
than the under. 

TO FINISH RENAISSANCE LACE. 
— When the lace is finished, turn the work 
wrong side up and cut every second or 
third basting stitch and pull the threads 
carefully out from the wrong side, when 
the lace will pull away easily from the 
backing. Dampen and iron it on the 
wrong side. 

BASTING ON THE BRAIDS.— Tack 

the braids neatly on with small back 
stitches, and where the pattern describes 
a curve or a circle, the outside edge must 
be sewn down firmly to form into small 
folds or gathers on the inside edge, which 
are first basted on, then gathered in with 
small overcasting stitches in fine thread to 
fit the pattern exactly. 

Never draw the stitches for the bars 
and fillings so tightly as to drag out the 
edges of the braids and thus spoil the out- 
lines, nor do not catch the stitches in the 
tracing cloth, only rest on it. Either the 
bars or the fillings may be made first. 
However it is always better to begin with 
the buttonhole bars, as it will prevent 
drawing the edges together. 

STITCHES, PLAIN TWISTED BAR, 
— Secure the thread to the braid and 
throw it across from one braid edge to the 
other, put the needle in downwards from 
above, and overcast the first thread, so as 
to form the two into a cord. Be sure and 
make enough overcasting stitches to 
tighten the two threads, otherwise the 
bars will be loose and slovenly and spoil 
the looks of the work, 

DOUBLE TWISTED BAR.— Throw 

three foundation threads across the space 
to be filled and overcast them loosely, so 
the threads remain visible through the 
sf"itcliGS 

PLAIN BUTTONHOLE BAR. - 
Throw three threads across and cover 
them with buttonhole stitches made from 
right to left. 

BUTTONHOLE BAR WITH 

PINNED PICOTS.— After covering half 
or a third of the bar with buttonhole 
stitches, pass the thread without making 
a loop under the foundation threads and 
fasten the loop with a pin, then slip the 
needle horizontally from right to left under 
the three threads and tighten the knot 
close to the last buttonhole stitch. 

BAR WITH LACE PICOT.— The 
picot is made by bringing the thread out 
through the loop and beginning the but- 
tonhole stitches, four or five, according to 
the size of the thread, quit© close to the 



pin so they cover the loop entirely. The 
pin must be stuck in the width of four 
stitches distant from the bar, and the 
foundation threads should be completely 
hidden under the bar. 

Bii-R WITH BUTTONHOLE PICOT* 
—Cover more than half the bar with but- 
tonhole stitches; carry the thread three 
times to the sixth stitch and back, then 
buttonhole thfese threads the same way as 
the bar itself and finish the bar in the 
usual way. These are generally used for 
edging lace, and may in their turn be 
adorned with small pinned picots. 

PLAIN NET STITCH, FIRST LACE 
STITCH.— There are many lace stitches 
in this work, but space will not allow 
them all to be explained, A few chosen 
ones will assist the worker to make others 
according to her fancy; this selection com- 
prises the most useful ones. Make rows 
of buttonhole stitches to and fro, loose 
enough to form loops into which the 
stitches of each subsequent row are set. 
Be careful to make the same number of 
stitches in all the spaces that are of the 
same size, and also when a row is begun 
with a whole stitch, to begin the return 
row with a half, aud so on in regular 
rotation. The number of stitches should 
vary with the width of the pattern, and 
the decreasing and increasing should al- 
ways be done at the edge. The loops must 
be as many threads of the braid edge long 
as they are wide. 

DOUBLE NET STITCH, SECOND 
LACE STITCH,— Leave the same dis- 
tance between these stitches as in the 
first lace stitch, but in each of the loops 
of the first row make two buttonhole 
stitches close together. It is as well to 
round the loop a little less than is usually 
done in plain net stitch. 

THIRD LACE STITCH.-Make three 
buttonhole stitches close together, joined 
to the next three by a loop of thread just 
long enough to hold the three buttonhole 
stitches of the subsequent row. 

FOURTH LACE STITCH.-Working 
from left to right, make two buttonhole 
stitches rather near together, and leave 
twice as long a loop between them and 
the next two stitches as between the first 
two. In the next row, which is worked 
from right to left, make one or more 
stitches in the loop between the two 
stitches that are close together, and three, 
fouror more in the long loop. This stitch 
admits of every sort of modification, such 
as making the third row of stitches on the 
buttonhole stitches, in the middle of the 
ones on the small loop, or making first one 
row of close stitches and then three open 
rows. In the former case always make an 
uneven number of buttonhole stitches, so 
as to have the same number on both sides 



110 



TOBACCO WAS BROUGHT TO EUROPE BY A SPANIARD IN 1559. 



of the needle, which is to be put in between 
the two threads that form the middle but- 
tonhole stitch. 

WHEEL OR SPIDER STITCH.— To 
fill in a surface with this stitch, begin by 
laying double diagonal threads to and fro^ 
at regular distances apart, so that thej 
lay side by side and are not twisted. 
When the whole surface is covered with 
these double threads, throw a second series 
across them, the opposite way. The re- 
turn thread, in makiug this layer, must be 
conducted under the double threads of the 
first layer, and over the single thread just 
laid, and wound two or three times round 
them, thereby forming little wheels or 
spiders, the same as in netting. 

RUSSIAN STITCH.— All kinds of 
stitches as well as bars are used for join- 
ing braids together and filling spaces. 
These stitches serve as an insertion, and 
some are very simple while others a.re 
complicated nud difficult to execute. 

The simplest of all is the Russian stitch, 
passing the needle from left to right un- 
der the edge of the braid, then again 
from right to left under the opposite edge, 
taking care always to leave the thread in 
front of the needle. 

TWISTED RUSSIAN STITCH.— In- 
stead of passing the needle behind the 
thread, pass it in front and around, so 
that the needle always comes out again be- 
neath the thread which will then be twice 
twisted. 

COLUMN STITCH.— At the bottom the 
stitch is made like the plain Russian stitch 
and at the top like the twisted Russian 
stitch, with the difference that the second 
thread is passed three times round the 
first. 

NETTING STITCH.— Begin with a 
loop in the corner and work in diagonal 
lines. The loops are secured by means of 
the stitch explained in the second knotted 
stitch, and secure the regularity of the 
loops, by making them round a pin stuck 
in at the proper distance. The squares or 
meshes must be made with the greatest 
accuracy, and on this netting stitches 
can be worked, and the smallest spaces 
filled in with delicate embroidery, wheels, 
rings, flowers, etc. 

KNOTTED STITCH.— After making a 
row of pairs of buttonhole stitches set 
closely together with long loops between, 
as long as the space between the pairs, 
throw the thread across in a line with the 
extremities of the loops, fasten it to the 
edge of the braid and make pairs of but- 
tonhole stitches, as in the first row above 
it. The loops must be perfectly regular to 
facilitate which, guide lines may be traced 
across the pattern, and pins stuck in, round 
which to carry the thread. Another stitch 
of this kind is to pass the thread under 



the loop and the laid thread, then stick 
in the pin at the right distance for making 
the long loop, bring the thread round be- 
liind the pin, make a loop round the point 
of the needle and pull up the knot. 

INSERTION OF SINGLE BUTTON- 
HOLE STITCHES.— Make very loose 
buttonhole stitches along both edges of 
the braid, all the same size and the same 
distance apart, and vertically opposite to 
each other. When these two rows are 
finished, pick up each loop with Russian 
stitch either single or twisted. Thiw stitch 
may be trebled or quadrupled according 
to whether the insertion is to be transpar- 
ent or thick. 

CLUSTER INSERTION.— Over the 
middle of two finished plain bars and one 
half finished one, three in all, made a short 
distance apart, make five buttonhole 
stitches and then overcast the remainder 
of the third bar. The first bar of the next 
cluster must be set quite close to the last. 

INSERTION WITH CONES.— Over 
plain but very distended Russian .stitch, 
make darning stitches backwards and for- 
wards, beginning at the point and reaching 
to the middle, so as to form small cone- 
shaped figures. To reach the point of the 
next cone, overcast the thread of the Rus- 
sian stitch several times. 

Another way is to double the Russian 
Btitch, and make the darning stitches in 
such a manner that the points of the cones 
touch each other, and their bases meet 
the edge of the braid. Or, this (;an be 
worked the reverse way, with the points 
turned outwards to the edge, which pro- 
duces also a very pretty effect. 

TO FILL IN ROUND SPACES.— The 
stitches best adapted for tilling in round 
spaces are those that can be drawn in and 
tightened to the required circumference, 
or those that admit of the number being 
reduced, regularly in each round. 

In tacking braids onto circular patterns, 
the inside edges have to be drawn in with 
overcasting stitches in very fine thread. 

To fill in a round space with net 
stitches, the loop which begins the row 
has the thread of the loop with which it 
terminates wound round it, this thread 
then passes on to the second series of 
stitches. In the same manner pass to the 
last row, after which pick up all the loops 
and fasten off the thread by working back 
to the braid edge over all the rows of 
loops. 

NEEDLE MADE PICOTS.— The edges 
and outlines of this kind of lace are gen- 
erally bordered with picots. Begin by a 
knotted stitch over which the tlivpriil is 
twisted and form a loop to the next knot; 
these must be all knotted in a fine, all the 
same length and all the same distance 
apart. 



SOME OLIVE TREES NEAR JERUSALEM ARE 800 YEARS OLD. 



Ill 



CROCHET.— This is one of the most 
useful and popular kinds of work, for It 
can be applied to every sort of domestic 
requirements, and the most beautiful, ar- 
tistic aud useful articles can be made by 
any woman who has the taste and time 
for fancy work. 

TO WORK CROCHET.— The rows arc 
worked according to the kind of stitch, 
either to or fro, or all from one end. In 
the former case the work has to be 
turned at the end of each row and the 
next row begin with one, two or three 
chain stitches to prevent the contraction 
of the outside edge. When the rows are 
all worked one way fasten the thread in 
afresh each time by putting the needle 
into the first chain stitch of the former 
row, drawing the thread through to form 
a loop aud make one or more chain 
stitches. At the end of each row cut 
the thread and draw the end through 
the last loop. Some, to better secure the 
ends, fasten them off with a few stitches 
on the wrong side. 

NEEDLES OR HOOKS.— Those made 
of wood or bone are used for the heavier 
kinds of crochet work in thick wool or 
cotton, and steel ones for the finer kinds. 
The handles of the needles must be so 
light as not to tire the hand. The bone 
or wooden handles are preferable to the 
steel ones. 

STITCHES USED IN CROCHET.— 

There is really only one, because all 
crochet work consists of loops made by 
means of the hook or needle, and con- 
nected together by being drawn the one 
through the other. 

EXPLANATION OP SIGNS AND 
ABBREVIATIONS.— In crochet, as in 
knitting, the same series of stitches have 
to be frequently repeated. Such repeti- 
tious are indicated by one, two or three 
small stars, as the case may be, thus:* 

Ch., chain stitch; S., single crochet; 
Dc, double crochet; L., long stitch, double 
aud treble long. An over means throwing 
the thread over the needle. 

CH., OR CHAIN STITCH.— Hook the 
thread into a loop, and keep on looping the 
thread through a previous stitch till a suc- 
cession of chains are made to form a chain. 

S., or SINGLE CROCHET.— Put the 
needle in from the right side of the work, 
into the uppermost loop of the preceding 
row, take up the thread on the needle and 
draw it through both loops. It thus makes 
a close tie and is used in working designs. 

DC, OR DOUBLE CROCHET.— 
Throw the thread around the hook, insert 
the latter into a stitch, and draw the 
thread through; there are now two loops 
on the hook. Take up the :hread on the 



hook, and with thread again upon the 
hook, draw it through two loops. 

L., TREBLE OR LONG STITCH.— 

With the loop of the last stitch on the 
hook, twist the thread over the hook, 
place the latter through a stitch, draw the 
thread through, then put the thread over 
the hook, draw the thread through two 
loops, and again through two loops. 

DOUBLE AND TREBLE LONG.— 
With the hook in a loop, twist the thread 
either two or three times (twice for double 
and three times for treble) over the hook, 
and draw the hook successively through 
either two or three loops, 

TRIPLE TREBLE, QUADRUPLE 
TREBLES, OR EXTRA LONG 
STITCH.— For a triple treble, twist the 
thread or wool three times round the 
needle, or for a quadruple four times, thea 
form the treble in the usual way by draw- 
ing the needle through two of the loops at 
a time. 

CON NECTED TREBLES. — Trebles 
connected together can be worked back- 
wards aud forwards, and take the place of 
plain stitches. Begin with a chain, then 
make a treble of the required height; form 
as many loops as are overs for the treble, 
take up the upper thread of the stitch 
nearest the treble, turn the thread round 
the needle, bring it back to the right side, 
and draw the needle through the trebles, 
two at a time. 

TUNISIAN CROCHET.-This requires 
a long straight needle, with a knob on one 
end. To be worked on the right side only. 

Make a chain the length required, then 
put the needle through a loop of the chain, 
pull the thread or wool through without 
twisting it, and so continue to the end, 
keeping all the stitches on the needle. In 
returning, put one over on the needle, pull 
it through the first loop, one more over, pull 
through the next and so continue to the 
end. There will now be a row of flat 
loops, but not on Ihe edge. Work the next 
row as the first, but instead of putting the 
needle in the chain, take up one stitch of 
the last row from the back. 

KNOT STITCH. — This stitch, com- 
posed of several loops forming a tuft, can 
only be worked one way. It looks best in 
coarse material which shows the interlac- 
ing of the threads. Enter the needl& 
through the two loops of the stitches of thfr 
bottom row, turn the thread round the nee- 
dle, but away from you towards the back; 
bring it forward to the right side, put the- 
needle again through one of the bottom 
stitches, make another over like the firsts 
and draw the needle through all the bars 
at once. 

RAISED STITCH WITH DOTS.— 
Make three plain rows; begin the fourth 
with three plain stitches and proceed as 



112 



CYPRESSES ARE KNOWN" TO BE 800 OR 900 YEARS OLD, 



follows:* Six trebles into the fourtli plain 
stitch of the last row, leaving the last loop 
of each treble on the needle, to have alto- 
gether seven loops on it. Turn the thread 
once ronnd the needle, and draw it through 
the loops. Miss the stitch that is under- 
licath the dot, make three plain stitches, 
and repeat from *. Then make three rows 
of plain stitches. In the fourth row the 
first dot is made in the fourth stitch, so 
that the dots stand out in relief. 

BULLION STITCH.— This can only be 
worked with wool or a very fleecy thread. 
Select a needle a little thicker towards the 
lian-lle and finer than used for ordinary 
crochet work. Begin with a chain of very 
loose stitches, then wind the thread several 
times very evenly round the needle. In- 
sert the needle into the loop of the chain, 
make a single over, and draw through all 
the stitches that are on the needle. For 
higher bullion stitches turn the thread at 
least ten or twelve times round the needle. 
To facilitate the passage of the needle, 
keep the overs in their place with the 
thumb and first finger of the left hand. 
To be worked all one way. 

CLOSE SHELL STITCH. — To be 
worked iu rows all one way; is suitable for 
children's wear, is easy and quickly done. 
On a foundation of chain or other stitches 
make: Two chain, seven trebles on the 
fourth stitch *. One chain, seven trebles 
on the fifth stitch of the last row and re- 
peat from *. 

Second row. ** Seven trebles on the 
chain stitch of the last row which connects 
seven bars, one plain stitch on the fourth 
of the seven trebles of the first row, and 
repeat from **. 

HAIRPIN CROCHET.— Worked on a 
kind of large steel hairpin or fork with two 
or more prongs. 

Stitches. Begin by a chain stitch, made 
■with a common crochet needle, take out 
the needle and insert the left prong of the 
hairpin upwards from below, holding the 
pin between the thumb and finger of the 
left hand. Keep the thread always in 
front, then put the thread over the right 
prong and the needle into the loop on the 
left prong, take up the thread, draw it 
through the loop, put the thread over the 
needle and draw it through the loop on the 
needle; twist the loop round the left prong, 
turn the needle round to the right (the 
thread is now wound round the right 
prong); put The needle in the loop on the 
left prong, throw the thread over the nee- 
dle, draw it through and tighten. These 
stitches may be doubled, or make several 
trebles on each loop, etc. 

PICOTS.— The edges of most crochet 
work are ornamented with picots, or small 
points of different shapes. 

DROOPING PICOTS.— Five chain, 
drop the loop, put the needle into the first 



of the 5-chain, take up the dropped loop, 
and draw it through the stitch. 

POINTED PICOTS.— Cast on 6 chain, 
then returning and missing the 6th stitch, 
1 single crochet, 1 plain stitch, 1 half 
treble, 1 treble, 1 double treble. 

KNITTING.— This branch of needle- 
work is most useful for invalids, those 
suffering from weak eyes and others who 
cannot bear the fatigue of a more elab- 
orate work. We confine ourselves to de- 
scribing the stitches, as these can be ap- 
plied to any pattern, for to reproduce all 
the beautiful designs that can be made 
from them would occupy too much space. 

MATERIALS.— Use threads with a 
slight twist. The needles either of steel, 
bone or wood, must be selected according 
to the quality of the thread ; every hand 
knits differently, and a loose knitter must 
use finer needles than a tight knitter. 

POSITION OF THE HANDS.— Lay 
the thread over the fifth finger of the right 
hand, twist it around, then carry it over 
the forefinger, which should be kept close 
to the work, this to be held between the 
third finger and the thumb. The left 
hand remains more or less inactive, hav- 
ing by a slight movement of the forefinger 
to pass the loop on to the needle in the 
right hand to form the stitches. 

To prevent irregularity in stitches the 
needles should never be allowed to pro- 
trude more than a third to half an inch 
beyond the work. Avoid all exaggerated 
movement of the arms, as this tires the 
hands. 

ABBREVIATIONS.— These are K., 
knit; P., purl; D., decrease; O., over, or 
increase ; S., slip a stitch ; C, chain ; 
K. 2 t, knit two together ; P. 2 t, purl two 
together; M. 1, make one; * repeat from 
this place. 

CASTING ON.— 1. With one thread. 
Hold the end of the thread between the 
first and second fingers of the left hand, 
bring it over the thumb and first tin<j;er, 
and bend the latter to twist the thread 
into a loop, bend the needle in the loop. 
Hold the thread attached to the reel be- 
tween the third and little fingers of the 
right hand and over the point of the first 
finger; bring the thread round the needle 
by the slightest possible motion; bend the 
needle towards you, and tighten the loop 
on the left hand finger in letting it slip 
off to form the first stitch. 

DOUBLE CROSSED CASTING ON.— 
This can be done either with a single or 
a threefold thread. Make the first stitch, 
only keep the loop on the thumb, put the 
needle into it a second tfme, lav hold of 
the thread behind, cnst off a second stitch, 
and then only withdraw the thumb. In 
this manner two loops are made at once, 
close together. 



THE MAHOGANY IS FULL GROWN" IN 200 YEARS. 



113 



CROSSED CASTING ON, FORMING 

A CHAIN. — Begin by making a casting on 
stitcli, and for the second and following 
stitches, bring the end of the thread to the 
inside of the palm of the hand so that it 
lies between the thumb and first finger. 

KNITTING ON STITCHES.— Begin 
with a plain crossed stitch, then take the 
thread and the needle in the left hand, a 
second needle in the right, and catch it 
into the stitch on the left needle, lay the 
thread under the right needle and draw it 
through in a loop, through the loop on the 
left needle. Then transfer it as a fresh 
stitch to the left needle, catch the needle 
into this second stitch, and draw the 
thread through it to form the third, and so 
on. This method of casting on is used for 
articles that are to have a double edge, be- 
cause stitches made in this way are easier 
to pick up than tighter ones ; but it should 
not be used where it will form the actual 
edge, as the loops are too open. 

PLAIN KNITTING STITCH.— This 
the primary stitch and the easiest. Put 
the right hand needle in, upwards from 
below, under the front part of the first 
stitch on the left hand needle, lay the 
thread from right to left under the 
needle, draw it through the loop and loop 
off the first needle. 

Plain knitting is used wherever a smooth, 
even surface is required. The wrong side 
presents the appearance of vertical rows. 

PURLIN<3t STITCH.— Lay the thread 
over the left needle, and put the right one 
downwards from above behind the thread, 
into the loop on the left needle, lay the 
thread upwards from below over the right 
needle, draw it through the loop, and drop 
the loop of the left needle. This stitch is 
used in knitting patterns, for seams of 
stockings and whenever a horizontal line 
is required on a smooth surface. 

PURLING TAKEN FROM BEHIND. 

— Put the needle into the second part of 
the stitch, upwards from below, and knit 
it as a purling stitch. In plain stitch taken 
from behind, the two threads of the loops 
are crossed, instead of lying side by side. 
as they do in plain knitting. These 
stitches taken from behind are only used 
for certain open worked patterns. 

OVER OR INCREASE.— Throw the 
thread once over the needle. 

DOUBLE OVER OR TWO IN- 
CREASES. — Throw the thread twice over 
the needle. 

PLAIN DECREASING. — Knit two 
stitches together plain. This is done when 
the decreasing is to be from left to right. 

PURL DECREASING.— Purling two 
stitches together. This is done to make 
the stitches that are knitted together 
Tisible. 



INCREASES OR OVERS —These form 
holes in plain knitting and are used for 
open worked patterns and increasing. Lay 
the thread over the needle, and in the next 
row knit this loop like any other stitch. 
Each over increases the existing number 
of stitches, therefore, when the number is 
to remain the same, decrease as often as 
there are overs. These can only be used 
in conjunction with other stitches. 

PULLING OVER.— This is slipping a 
stitch from the left needle to the rigJt 
without knitting it, knitting the next plain 
and pulling the slipped stitch over the 
knitted one. In this manner two or three 
stitches can be pulled over the knitted one. 

CASTING OFF.— To prevent the stitches 
from unravelling, they are finished off in 
the following manner: Knit off two plain, 
pull the first over the second and drop it, 
so that only one remains on the needle. 
Knit the next stitch and pull the one behind 
over it, and so on. The chain of stitches 
must neither be too tight nor too loose, 
but just as elastic as the rest of the work. 

DRAWN WORK OR OPEN WORK. 
— Tills comprises every sort of needlework 
in which the drawing out of threads is a 
preliminary. By sewing over the single 
threads that remain, and drawing them to- 
gether in different ways, an infinite va- 
riety of patterns can be produced, also 
when combined with cross stitch and other 
kinds of embroidery. The foundation for 
all the stitches and designs is the plain or 
fancy hemstitch, made after the threads 
are drawn out. Our limited space will 
only allow us to mention one or two oi 
the stitches, but from them other designs 
and patterns can be easily carried out. 

SINGLE HEMSTITCH.— Draw out, 
according to the coarseness of the goods, 
two or four threads below the edge of 
the turning and baste the hem down to 
the line thus drawn. Fasten the thread 
into the left, and work the hem from 
right to left, taking up three or four 
cross threads at a time, and inserting 
the needle immediately above into the 
folded hem, three or four threads from the 
edge, and then drawing it out. 

The same stitoh is used for preventing 
fringes on house linens from ravelling out. 

LADDER HEMSTITCH.— Finish a 
single hemstitch, then draw out three 
or five threads more, turn the work round 
and repeat the process, taking up the 
same cluster of threads as on the first 
row of stitches, thus forming little per- 
pendicular bars. 

DOUBLE HEMSTITCH.— Begin as 
in single hemstitch, forming the clusters 
of an even number of threads, then in 
making the second row of stitches draw 
half the threads of one cluster and half 
of the next together, thereby making 



114 SOUTH AMERICAJT TREES ARE OFTEN 22 FEET IN CIRCUMFERENCE. 



them slant, first on*' way and then the 
other. 

LATTICE OPEN WORK WITH 
SINGLE THREAD. — Divide the threads 
«f perpendicular clusters iu two after 
working the edges. Insert the needle 
from left to right, underneath half the 
second cluster turn the needle's eye_ by 
a second movement from left to right 
and take up the second part of the first 
cluster, drawing it under, and at the same 
time in front of the first half of the 
second cluster. Be careful not to draw 
the thread too tightly. 

LATTICE OPEN WORK WITH 
TWO THREADS. — A wide lane of open 
work between two finishing rows of 
stitches may have two or even three 
threads drawn through at equal distance 
apart. 

CLUSTERED OPEN WORK.— Draw 
out from sixteen to eighteen threads be- 
tween two hemstitched edges. Fasten 
the thread in one-sixteenth of an inch 
above the seam edge and wind it three 
times round every two clusters, passing 
the needle the third time under the two 
first rounds to fasten the thread; this 
thread must be left rather slack. 

A second row of stitches similar to 
the first, and at the same distance from 
the bottom edge, completes the pattern. 
To give it greater strength it may be 
worked back over the first thread with 
a second, taking care to pass it under 
the knot which was formed by the first. 
This can be worked in three clusters be- 
tween hemstitched bands. 

OPEN WORK INSERTION.— Draw 
out sixteen or eighteen threads, bind both 
sides with stitches made over four hori- 
zontal and four perpendicular threads as 
follows: Make one back stitch over four 
disengaged threads, then bring the thread 
up from right to left over four horizon- 
tal and under four perpendicular threads, 
back over the four last threads and draw 
it out beside the next cluster. The clus- 
ters as they now stand are bound to- 
gether in the middle three by three with 
darning stitches. Fasten and cut off the 
thread after each group is finished. 

OPEN WORK INSERTION WITH 
SPIDERS. — Herring bone the edges and 
make the so-called spiders in the middle 
over every group of four clusters of four 
threads each. Pass the thread over two 
clusters and under one exactly in the 
centre of the threads, and pass three or 
four times over and under the clusters 
as in darning, and so back, under the 
spider, at the place at which it was drawn 
in, and so on, to the next four strands 
of thread. 

CUT OPEN WORK.— For cut open 
work threads have to be drawn out both 



ways, the number, of course, to depend 
on the pattern. Threads left between 
others that have been cut out serve as 
a foundation on which a great variety 
of stitches can be worked. Stuffs, equal- 
ly coarse in the warp and woof, should 
be chosen for all cut open work, for 
then the empty spaces after the threads 
are drawn out will be perfectly square. 

The same number of threads must be 
drawn out each way. Most patterns re- 
quire the same number of threads to be 
left as are drawn out. 

BUTTONHOLING RAW EDGES.— 
In very fine linen textures the threads 
can simply be cut out, but in the case 
of coarser materials and when a pattern 
ends in steps the raw edges must be 
buttonholed. 

OVERCASTING RAW EDGES.— 
Cording the raw edges is even better 
than buttonholing them. Count the num- 
ber of threads carefully that have to be 
cut out, run in a thread to mark the 
pattern and then only cut the threads 
through at least two threads within the 
line. 

OVERCASTING THE TRELLISED 
GROUND. — If there is only a small sur- 
face to embroider draw out all the threads 
at once. But for a large piece of work 
it is better to begin by removing the 
threads in one direction only and com- 
pleting all the little bars one way firt-t, 
after which draw out the threads the 
other way and embroider those that are 
left. In this way greater equality and 
finish is obtained. 

CUTTING OUT THREADS AT THE 
CORNERS.— If a pattern has to be car- 
ried round a corner the threads on both 
sides must be cut and loosened about a 
sixteenth of an inch from the edge of 
the hem. The loose threads can then 
be pushed into the turning and the edge 
buttonholed. If, however, the stitching 
is to be continued without interruption, 
the loose threads must be brought to the 
wrong side and fastened down with a 
few stitches. 

The corners can be filled in with a 
spider made with the thread of the lat- 
tice work and this continued down the 
other side. 

NET WORK. — Many of the stitches 
tised consist of a combination of ordi- 
nary running and darning, others of chain, 
stem and cross stitch. These stitches can 
be worked on the coarsest net made, as 
well as on the finest Brussels net, with 
coarse embroidery cotton or the narrow- 
est braid. 

TRACING WITH RUNNING 

STITCHP^S. — Trace the pattern on linen 
or paper, baste the net firmly on it and 
copy it carefully on the net, with run- 



AN OAB: tree IN" THREE YEARS GROWS 2 FEET 10 J INCHES. 115 



ning stitches. As in darning, the stitches 
must run first above and then beneath, 
alternating in each succeeding row.' At 
the turn of the lines the stitches cross 
each other. 

CHAIN NET PATTERN.— Fill in 
every other diagonal row of meshes with 
chain stitch, inserting the needle into the 
same mesh it came out of, so that the 
thread lies in front of the needle in a 
loop. The rows of chain stitch may 
be made with two or three rows of 
meshes between them, but even the diag- 
onal lines by themselves, before being 
crossed with similar rows of diagonal 
chains, make a very pretty foundation 
for other stitches. 

DIAMOND NET PATTERN.— Make 
three diagonal stitches over three bars 
and two meshes, then return to the mesh 
out of which the first stitches came and 
make three more in the opposite direc- 
tion. In the second row the stitches meet 
in the same mesh as those of the first. 

NETTING.— Plain netting consists of 
loops, secured independently from one an- 
other by knots. The following imple- 
ments are used for forming the loops and 
tightening the knots: 

THE NEEDLE.— A netting needle of 
steel, split and flattened at both ends, 
with a hole bored through them below the 
fork at the one end, into which the thread 
is secured, before it is wound on length- 
wise between the forks. Their size varies 
the same as knitting needles. Those for 
twine and thick materials are of bone, 
ivory or wood; these have no holes. The 
thread must be wound on very tightly and 
not too much at the time, so the needle 
may slip easily through the loops. 

THE MESH, or spool, whetli/er of 
bone, steel or wood, must be smooth and 
round, and the same thickness through- 
out, so the loops made on it may be uni- 
form and easily slipped off. For long 
loops a flat mesh is best. 

THE CUSHION.— A cushion weighted 
with lead is also required to pin the foun- 
dation loop to, for the first row. 

MATERIALS.— These depend on the 
purpose of the netting; silk, twine, cotton 
and wool can all be used, although silk is 
apt to twist and does not make firm knots. 

THE STITCHES.— The loops are al- 
ways four cornered, whether square or 
oblong, and connected by knots. They are 
plain loop, double loop, oblong loop, 
honeycomb loop and twisted loop. 

PLAIN LOOP.— Every kind of netting 
requires a foundation loop about two 
inches long, pinned to the cushion. Fasten 
the thread to this loop, take the mesh in 
the left hand, between the thumb and 
forefinger, the other fingers extended be- 



neath. Take the needle filled with thread 
in the right hand, pass the thread down- 
wards over the mesh and over the second, 
third and fourth fingers, inside; carry 
it up behind the third finger and lay it to 
the left under the thumb by which it must 
be held fast. Now carry the thread down 
behind the 2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th fingers, 
put the needle through the loop on the 
fingers behind the mesh, through the 
foundation loop, held back with ttie little 
finger of the left hand. Gradually draw 
up the thread that runs from the meslx, 
let go the loop held down by the thumb, 
gradually let go the loop which lies over 
the 2nd, 3rd and 4th fingers, still holding 
the last loop fast with the little finger, 
finally release this also, and pull up the 
knot thus formed close to the mesh with 
the right hand. This completes the stitch. 
The next ones are made the same way, 
whether for casting on or for netted 
foundations. The mesh is drawn out at 
the end of each row, the work turned, 
and the mesh held beneath the last row, 
ready for the next, in making which pass 
the needle through each loop. These dia- 
mond shaped loops form a diagonal net. 

DOUBLE LOOP.— To make a double 
loop put the thread two or three times 
round the mesh. 

OBLONG LOOP.— For oblong loops, 
the knots must be made a little distance 
from the mesh. 

HONEYCOMB LOOP.— Make an ob- 
long loop, pass the thread round the 
fingers, but not over the mesh as in main 
netting, put the needle, not into the loop 
of the previous row, but between the loop 
just made. The knot made the same way 
as in plain netting is drawn close up to 
the mesh; the two threads of the loop +o 
lie side by side on the mesh. These loops 
are six-sided. 

TWISTED LOOPS.— Pass the thread 
as in plain netting, over the mesh and 
fingers, but before letting the thread 
which is under the loop go, pass the needle 
from right to left under the loop you are 
makin". and the thread, and only then 
draw up the knot. 

Plain netting san be varied by making 
one row of loops over a large mesh and 
one over a small one, or alternate several 
rows of large and small, changing at 
regular intervals. 

Netting composed of large and small 
loops is the kind generally used as a 
groundwork for embroidery. The loops 
are straight, and the whole first row con- 
sists of a double and a plain loop alter- 
nating; the second row is entirely of ob- 
long loops, made by passing the thread 
only once over the mesh, and so, that in 
netting on the double loop, the knot is 
brought close to the needle, whereas ia 



lir> AN ELM TREE IS FULL GROWN IN 150 TEARS; LIVES FJJ. 



netting the plain loop it hangs free. All 
the loops of the second row are thus of the 
same length. In the third row, like the 
first, the plain loops should come between 
the small holes and the double ones, be- 
tween the large holes. 

CIRCULAR NETTING OF LONG 
AND SHORT LOOPS.— Make thirty or 
thirty-one loops over a large mesh with 
very stout materials, then draw up the 
thread on which the loops are strung as 
tightly as possible to form quite a small 
ring in the centre, and fasten off. For 
the next row made also in coarse thread, 
fasten the thread onto one of the long 
loops, and make one loop into each loop 
of the first row, over a small mesh. Use 
the same mesh for all the subsequent 
rows, these to be worked in a finer thread. 
If you want to avoid fastening on the 
thread afresii for each row, make a loop 
over the thumb. For this, put the thread, 
as for a plain loop, over the mesh and 
fingers, put the needle through the loop 
the same as for a plain knot, but before 
tightening the knot, draw the mesh out of 
the loop just made and make it exactly as 
long as the loop above. 

DARNING ON NETTING.-Square 
and diamond netting are the most fre- 
quently used, and are ornamented with 
patterns darned on them, in simply darn- 
ing or in various point stitches. 

Stitches in netting are always counted 
by knots. To embroider the netting it 
must first be mounted on wire frames hav- 
ing ribbon or tape wound tightly round it. 

TATTING.— Although this work is not 
in frequent use, still a few suggestions 
may be useful to many who wish to learn 
this art. 

SHUTTLES.— This consists of two 
oval blades of bone or ivory, pointed at 
both ends and joined together in the 
middle. In filling the shuttle be careful 
not to wind on too much thread at once, or 
the blades will gap open at the ends and 
the thread get soiled with constant con- 
tact with the worker's hands. Use a 
strongly twisted thread. 

POSITION OF THE HANDS.— Hold 
the shuttle between the thumb and first 
and second fingers of the right hand, leav- 
ing about half a yard of unwound thread, 
pass the thread round the other fingers of 
the left hand (keeping them slightly 
apart), and bring it again between the 
thumb and forefinger, thus making a circle 
round the extended fingers. 



STITCHES.— There are only two 
stitches in tatting, aud they are usually 
done alternately; therefore it is called a 
double stitch. 

FIRST STITCH.— The first is made 
thus: Let the thread between the right 
and left hands fall towards you; slip the 
shuttle under the thread between the first 
and second fingers; draw it out rather 
quickly, keeping it in a horizontal line 
with the left hand. A slipping loop Is 
thus formed on this thread with that 
which went round the fingers. Hold the 
shuttle steadily, with the thread stretched 
tightly out, and with the second finger of 
the left hand slip the loop, thus made 
under the thumb. 

TO JOIN LOOPS.— When two loops 
are to be connected a picot is made in tiie 
first wherever the join is required. When 
the corresponding part of the second loop 
is reached, draw the thread which goes 
round the fingers of the left hand through 
the picot with a needle or pin, pulling a 
loop through large enough to admit the 
shuttle. Slip this through, then draw the 
thread tight again over the fingers and 
continue the work. 

TATTING WITH TWO SHUTTLES. 
—Two shuttles are used in tatting when 
the little rings are not to be connected to- 
gether at the bottom by a thread, or when 
the passage of the thread to another group 
of knots is to be hidden, or when threads 
of several colors are used. 

When two shuttles are used, tie the two 
threads together. Pass one thread over 
the third finger of the left hand, wind it 
twice round the fourth finger and leave 
the shuttle hanging down. Pass the sec- 
ond shuttle into the right hand and maka 
the same movements with it as when 
working with one shuttle only. 

PICOTS. — Picots are introduced into 
tatting patterns the same as in knitting 
or crochet. They also serve to connect the 
different parts of a pattern together and 
thereby make pretty combinations. They 
are made by leaving a loop of thread be- 
tween the knots having them all of uni- 
form length. 

SCALLOPS WITH PICOTS. — 4 
double, 1 picot*, 3 double, 1 picot, 2 double, 
1 picot, 2 double, 1 picot, 3 double, 1 picot, 
4 double, close the ring. Leave sufiBcient 
length of thread before beginning the next 
ring for the rings not to overlap each 
other. Make 4 double, draw the left hand 
through the 5th picot of the preceding 
ring aud repeat from*. 



SEA-KALE BECAME EDIBLE ABOUT 1780. 



117 



The Nursery. Children's Care 



BABY'S AILMENTS. — These are not 
always easily accounted for. Here are a 
few reasons why babies do not flourish as 
they should. 

WANT OP CLEANLINESS.— Infants 
require to be washed in warm water every 
day, and often do not thrive because the 
bath is omitted. 

INSUFFICIENT FOOD.— A hand-fed 
baby requires its food to be gradually in- 
creased in strength and quality as the 
weeks go by. 

IRREGULAR FEEDING.— Feed the 
baby at stated times, not whenever it 
cries. The cry may mean that it has 
been over-fed. 

STARCHY FOOD.— No infant can di- 
gest starch, and, therefore, should not be 
given bread crumbs, corn starch or other 
starchy substances. 

TIGHT CLOTHING.— A baby's clothes 
should be warm, yet light; the band firmly, 
but uever tightly fastened. 

UNWASHED BOTTLES.— Baby's bot- 
tle and the nipple should be washed after 
each meal. A bottle that cannot be easily 
washed and long tubes should be avoided. 

TO STRENGTHEN THE LIMBS.— 
Babies should be encouraged to stretch 
their limbs and crawl about to promote 
circulation. Lay them sometimes on their 
backs and let them push with their feet 
against something solid. 

VENTILATE THE NURSERY.— 
Always open the window when the 
weather permits, and see that the room is 
always kept well ventilated. 

BABY'S BATH.— Good, white soap 
should be used for baby's bath; unseented 
powder is the best, and if the skin gets at 
all chafed, a little cold cream is the safest 
and nicest remedy. To dry the child, place 
a bath towel on the bed, and roll the child 
in this. It is much better than the lap, 
and the baby can be partly dressed while 
still on the bed. 

BABY'S HAIR.— To encourage a 
healthy growth of hair, wash the head 
daily by gently lathering with castile soap 
and rinsing in warm water. If the scalp 
is covered with a few straggling hairs 
only and the head has a scurfy appear- 
ance, mix together a teaspoonful of borax 
and a tablespoonful of white vaseline, and 
with the finger ends rub the head gently 



and thoroughly. Let it remain on for 
about twenty minutes. Then wash with 
plenty of soap and warm water. Renew 
this application until the head is perfectly 
clean. This is also beneficial for children's 
hair that lacks life and gloss. Rub the 
mixture in, wash it out and brush the 
hair well when dry. 

Never use a wet brush on a child's hair 
to keep it in order. Brush and wash till 
the hair becomes silken and pliable, let- 
ting it retain its natural life and oil. Never 
use oil or pomades on a child's hair. Clip 
the ends when they have become frayed 
and split. This stimulates new life and 
causes the hair to thicken. 

BABY'S NAILS.— Great care should 
be taken of an infant's nails; they must 
be cut regularly, as they are very brittle 
and apt to break and catch in the clothing. 

BABY'S OUTING.— Unless a baby is 
delicate, it should be taken out every day 
in spite of weather. On bright days the 
entire afternoon should be spent in the 
open air. 

TO WASH BABY'S TENDER SKIN. 
—Tie a teacupful of bran in a muslin 
bag, put it into water over night and 
wash the baby with this in the morning, 
after taking out the bag and heating the 
water. The bag can be used over again, 
only renewing it twice a week. 

Be particular to dry the skin well after 
each ablution, and rub a piece of deer s 
suet over any chapped parts. This can 
be bought at any butcher's where, venison 
is sold. Glycerine, diluted with rose- 
water, applied with a camel's hair brusli 
to the rough or chafed skin will also have 
a soothing effect. 

AN AUTUMN MEDICINE FOR 
CHILDREN. — Mix together the juice of 
three lemons, one ounce each of Epsom 
salts, flower of sulphur and cream of tar- 
tar, and a little sugar to sweeten. Pour 
on this one quart of boiling water, and 
when cold use. 

Dose: A wineglassful every morning 
before breakfast. 

AN APERIENT ENEMA.— The sim- 
plest form of an injection for a young child 
is warm water, but barley water or thin 
gruel are always preferable as they are of 
a less irritating nature; if necessary to in- 
crease the strength of the injection use a 
little castor oil. 

A newly born infant will require about 
one ounce of fluid, and a child between one 



118 



ROSES CAME FROM PERSIA INTO INDIA. 



aud five years will need from three to four 
ounces. 

TO ADMINISTER STERILIZED 
MILK.— The milk must be mixed with 
boiled water according to the child's age. 

The first three months give it six 
ounces at a feeding, milk one-third to five- 
twelfths. Second three months, eight 
ounces at a feeding, milk one-half to five- 
eighths. Third three months, eight ounces 
at a feeding, milk five-eighths to seven- 
eighths. And after the child is nine 
months, give it the milk pure, if the diges- 
tion remains good. 

BRAN AND SALT BAGS.— Every 

mother should have a bran bag in the 
house. They are easily made— simply a 
piece of flannel sewn into bag shape and 
loosely stufifed with bran. The bags should 
not be large or heavy. Salt bags retain 
heat for a long time and are useful in 
cases of ear or toothache. Coarse kitchen 
salt should be used to make them, and any 
old piece of flannel will do for the cover- 
ing, if it is free from holes. 

BATHING AILING CHILDREN.- 
Childreu should have their skins kept thor- 
oughly clean, especially when suffering 
from diarrhoea. The pores should be kept 
well open, so that the fluid matter which 
is passing off the bowels, and through the 
mucous membrane, or inner skin, may be 
diverted to the outer skin. Do not fear 
to wash children suffering from any rash, 
for the rash will not be driven in if due 
care is taken to avoid exposure, and the 
water is warm. Only a small portion of 
the body must be sponged at a time, and 
immediately and thoroughly dried. The 
irritation of the skin caused by measles 
and kindred ailments may be greatly 
allayed by sponging with warm water. 

CHILDREN'S BEDS.— A child's pil- 
low should never be high, because it is 
bad for the spine, nor does it rest the 
little one as much; at the same time it 
should be so raised as to make it difficult 
for the child to pull the clothes over the 
head. 

Arrange the bedclothes and pillows so 
to keep the face quite uncovered, for^ if 
allowed to get into a perspiring condition 
it is liable to make the hair fall out and 
the heat makes the skin rough. Never 
let a child sleep with its head under the 
clothes; if found this way raise it up 
onto the pillow at once. 

BED WETTING. — This is_ a complaint 
more common in boys than in girls, and 
gfnernlly occurs in children between seven 
and eiulit years old, although it frequently 
lasts ninch longer. 

One-thirtieth of a grain belladonna pills 
are good, and give no liquids late at night, 
have also the cnlls of nature attended to 
before going to bed. 



BLINDNESS IN INFANTS AND ITS 
PREVENTION. 

THE CAUSE.— One of the most fre- 
quent causes of blindness is the inflamma- 
tion of newborn babies' eyes. It is com- 
puted that one-third of the cases of blind- 
ness in children is due to the neglect 
and unsuitable treatment of this disease. 

PREVENTION.— Immediately a babe 
is born, and before anything else is done, 
wipe the eyelids and all surrounding parts 
with a soft, dry linen rag, and soon 
afterwards wash these parts with tepid 
water before any other part is touched. 

EXPOSURE.— Avoid exposing the 
baby to the cold air, nor do not take it 
into the open air in cold weather; dress 
the infant warmly and cover its head. 

SYMPTOMS.— The inflammation is 
easily recognized by the redness, swelling 
and heat of the eyelids aud by the dis- 
charge of yellowish white matter from 
the eye. While seeking the advice of 
a doctor keep the eyes as clean as possi- 
ble by frequently cleansing away the 
discharge, for it is this that does the 
mischief. 

REMEDY.— Separate the eyelids with 
the finger and thumb and allow a gen- 
tle stream of lukewarm water to run 
between them from a piece of rag or 
cotton wool held two or three inches above 
the eyes. Move the eyelids up and down 
and from side to side in a gentle way 
to bring out the matter. This cleansing 
will take from three to four minutes 
regularly every half hour at first 
and every hour after an improvement has 
been noticed. Small pieces of linen rag 
are better than a sponge, as it can be 
burat at once. Smear along the edges 
of the eyelids occasionally with a little 
vaseline to prevent them from sticking. 

SPECIAL WARNING.— Never apply 
poultices, tea leaves and sugar of lead 
lotions; such applications are strongly to 
be condemned as not in accordance with 
the proper mode of treatment. 

NURSING BOTTLES.— The rubber 
tops can be boiled from time to time with- 
out injury. This treatment keeps them 
perfectly good and fresh in the hottest 
weather. Only put the required quantity 
of food into the bottle at each meal,_and 
throw away any that is left, as it is 
excessively unwholesome to allow a child 
to take fo»d that has been standing any 
length of time screwed up in the bot- 
tle. 

HOLDING THE BREATH.— After a 
paroxysm of crying, generally caused by 
anger, a child suddenly stops breathing 
until, perhaps, it grows blue in the face 
and nearlv unconscious. Sometimes thia 
is followed by a crowing inspiration, the 



TURNIPS WEEE INTRODUCED INTO ENGLAND IN 1716. 



119 



result of a sudden spasmodic closing of 
the larynx, arising from great nervous 
excitement, and although scarcely ever a 
serious matter still it may lead to con- 
vulsions. If the attacks occur often and 
are severe there is reason to suspect that 
the child has rickets and it should be 
carefully examined. 

For an immediate remedy wring a towel 
out in cold water and dab it over the 
face, or use a wet sponge, or even dash 
cold water from a glass. The shock 
restores the breathiug. Sometimes seda- 
tive medicines are needed, such as small 
doses of bromide, but give no ordinary 
soothing syrup without a thorough knowl- 
edge of its contents. 

SPRAINED ANKLE.— Treat the 
sprain at once with an application of 
water as hot as it can be borne. This 
can be done by showering hot water upon 
it or by hot cloths applied frequently. 

An excellent remedy is to put the white 
of an egg in a saucer, keep stirring it 
with a piece of alum about the size of a 
walnut until it becomes a thick jelly, 
apply a portion of it on a piece of lint 
large enough to cover the sprain, chang- 
ing it for a fresh one as often as it 
feels warm and dry. The limb _ should 
be placed in a horizontal position by 
placing it on a chair. 

BURNS. — Cold water and flour mixed 
will at once relieve the pain caused by 
burns and may be used repeatedly. Or 
mix together linseed oil and water till 
it looks like a cream, apply to the burn 
with a soft rag, renewing as required. 
The water must be added very slowly 
to the oil. 

FOR CHILDREN CHAFING.— Get 
some fuller's earth from the druggist's, 
powder it finely and dust thickly on the 
chafed parts twice a day. This not only 
cures, but prevents chafing either in chil- 
dren or adults, and is better than all the 
powders invented for this purpose. 

CHAPPED HANDS, FACE AND 
LEGS. — Little children often suffer dur- 
ing the winter months and proper care 
should be taken to dry them properly. 
Children usually content themselves with 
one perfunctory rub. If . the hands are 
already chapped a little glycerine and 
rose water may be rubbed in at bed 
time. Boracic ointment, too, heals skin 
quickly. For chapped face and legs a 
good plan is to soften the water in which 
the child is washed with a little oatmeal. 
If this is done when tlie slightest rough- 
ness is observed on the skin painful chap- 
ping will be entirely avoided. 

CHILBLAINS.— How to prevent and 
cure them: Want of circulation is the 
cause of chilblains, and, therefore, the 
best preventive is exercise. Huddling over | 



a fire does not warm a child throui?h, 
but a chase round a table will soon bring 
the glow to his body. Exercises intro- 
duced as part of lessons are also invalua- 
ble for promoting circulation, and a romp 
before bed time will easily put a stop 
to the misery of cold feet in bed. 

When a chilblain has appeared the only 
thmg to be done is to rub it two or three 
times a day with some application which 
Vv'ill harden the skin and prevent it from 
breaking. Any ordinary embrocation will 
do, or a little whiskey, eau de cologne 
or turpentine. Broken chilblains must be 
treated like any other sore — bound up 
carefully with some healing omtment. 

CHILLS. — If a bad shivering fit occurs 
during a severe illness wrap the child 
in a hot blanket, put hot water bottles 
to the feet and give warm milk or beef 
tea to drink, not stimulants, unless by 
the doctor's fcrder. 

CHOKING.— When a child chokes, in- 
sert the forefinger into his mouth and try 
to hook out the piece of food or other ob- 
ject. Hit him smartly on the back at the 
same time. If this does not do, let him 
swallow a large piece of boiled potato or 
soft bread, and if these fail, give a mustard 
ernetic. When a child has swallowed a 
coin, pencil or button, never give medi- 
cine. Feed him on arrowroot, gruel, well 
boiled porridge and such like food which 
will form a coating round the substance 
and carry it safely through the intestine 
canal. Avoid any aperient medicine. 

DEAFNESS IN CHILDREN.— The 
natural tendency to conceal a defect often 
leads children to pretend they hear when 
they have not done so. Mothers or teach- 
ers can use the following tests to discover 
whether there is anything abnormal in the 
child's hearing. Notice the distance at 
which the tick of a watch can be heard. 
The distance at which a whisper or the or- 
dinary tone of voice can be understood. Ex- 
amine each ear separately, covering the 
other, making the child turn its face away 
so it cannot follow the movements of the 
lips. Use familiar proper names, nouns 
and numbers, always speaking in the same 
tone of voice. Let the child repeat the word 
aloud when heard. An ordinary whisper 
should be heard at twenty feet distance, 
and the voice at double that distance. When 
the hearing is below the average, the child 
should be immediately taken to an au- 
thority on deafness and a thorough exam- 
ination be made to discover the cause. 

CHILDREN'S EARS.— No nurse should 
be allowed to use one of the recently in- 
vented implements for cleaning children's 
ears. They are most dangerous and hurt- 
ful. Nothing but a soft towel should b'^ 
employed to cleanse the inner folds of th-i 
ear, and it is well to warn the nurse against 



120 HENNA IS ESTEEMED IN EGYPT TOE ITS YELLOW DYE FOR THE HAIR. 



twisting up the corner of a towel and forc- 
ing it into the ear. 

OBJECT IN THE EAR.— When a 

child ha.s thrust some small object into his 
ear, it is well to remember before makinsr 
frantic attempts to remove the substance 
that more harm can be done by poking into 
the ear than by leaving the foreign body 
untouched. If it is necessary to syringe 
the ear, call in a skilled person, unless 
mother and nurse have practical knowl- 
edge on the subject. 

EAR ACHE. — Many children suffer from 
this ailment, and it is a very hard one to 
bear. This remedy has never been known 
to fail. Spread out a little cotton wad- 
ding, and place on it a pinch of black 
pepper; gather it up and tie it. Saturate 
thoroughly in warm sweet oil and insert 
into the ear. Place a flannel bandage over 
the ears to keep them warm. 

Children teething are apt to suffer from 
ear ache ; it lasts but a few hours when 
there is a copious discharge without any 
aid. 

CHILDREN'S EYES.— If a child com- 
plains constantly of headache, and the local 
doctor fails to account for it, take the little 
sufferer to an oculist. Headache can very 
often be remedied by the wearing of glasses, 
and children soon learn to take care of 
their spectacles. 

SHORT-SIGHT.— If a child says he can- 
not see what other people can, do not 
punish him for inattention, or allow his 
companions to laugh at him for stupidity. 
His eyes may need the assistance of glasses. 
Short-sight is not easy to detect in a child, 
but when it is discovered, an oculist should 
be consulted. 

FOR ECZEMA IN CHILDREN.— 

Never use soap, as it contains much soda. 
A little oatmeal or sweet oil can be used 
when necessary. Sulphur ointment applied 
two or three times a week will cure eczema. 

CARE OF CHILDREN'S FEET.— See 
that the children have dry feet and shoes 
loose enough to be comfortable, not loose 
enough to slip round. Never allow a child 
to wear a shoe that is run down at the 
side or heel, and discourage any habit of 
standing on the outer edge, turning in the 
toes or rubbing one foot over the other. 
Never let the children go to bed with cold 
feet, and teach them that shoes and stock- 
ings must be changed the moment the feet 
are wet. If cotton stockings cause the feet 
to feel cold and damp, let the child wear 
■woolen ones. 

BRUISED FINGERS.— These are very 
painful, especially if it is the nail. Put 
the finger in warm water, and annlj' warm 
poultices, or bath with water as hot as 
ran be borne, then smear a little unsalted 
butter on the injured part. 



FAINTING FITS.— In case of fainting, 
place the child in a horizontal position 
with the head low ; sprinkle cold water on 
face, neck and chest ; Toosen the clothing 
and expose the patient to fresh air. 

FONTANELLE, or the opening found in 
the heads of young infants is a very im- 
portant guide as to the state of the child's 
health. When healthy, the movements of 
the soft part between the bones may be 
clearly felt by laying the finger lightly on it. 
These movements have to do with respira- 
tion and circulation. In health the part 
does not sink below or rise above ; should 
it sink in, this indicates that the child is 
badly nourished, and is in a state of ex- 
haustion, and if the fontanelle sinks in 
deeply it is always a danger signal. On 
the other hand, if it protrudes, perhaps 
caused by a collection of fluid, this may in- 
dicate water on the brain or meningitis, or 
inflammation of the membranes of the 
brain, commonly called brain fever. 

HICCOUGHS.— These are usually 
caused by an overloaded stomach, or per- 
sons of nervous temperament. The best 
remedy is to suck a piece of sugar that 
has been steeped in vinegar, or else drink 
a teaspoonful of vinegar having a little 
sugar dissolved in it. A second spoonful 
to be given if the first fails to stop the 
attack. 

HEADACHE.— When a child suffers 
from headache, keep him from all studies, 
and give a light and nourishing diet, with 
plenty of fresh air and outdoor life. Head- 
ache is sometimes caused by rapid growth, 
and regular hours and brain rest are the 
only remedies. 

KISSING CHILDREN. — Mothers 
should give strict directions to those who 
have charge of their children, that no pro- 
miscuous kissing by strangers is to be al- 
lowed on the street. The custom which 
has grown up for everyone to kLss a child 
is most regrettable. Cold in the head, not 
to mention other more dangei'ous diseases, 
is often communicated in this way, and 
even at the risk of giving offense, it is 
better for a woman to refuse to allow her 
child to be kissed. 

REGULAR MEALS.— Children should 
be given their meals at regular times. If 
a long time elapses between the daily break- 
fast and lunch, a child should have bread 
and butter or crackers and a glass of milk 
in the middle of the morning. Avoid ir- 
regular meal hours where there are chil- 
dren, for it means a ruined digestion. 

HINTS FOR A NURSING MOTHER. 
— Her food should be composed principally 
of cereals, and beer her ordinary drink. 
Abstain as much as possible from tea, cof- 
fee, cabbage, asparagus, salad, carrots, 
onions and garlic. 

Warm baths are not harmful. When the 



COFFEE WAS FIRST USED IN ARABIA IN 1428. 



121 



child nurses, let its nostrils be free ; do 
not let him fall asleep on the breast, but 
take him off as soon as he ceases to suckle. 

CHILDREN'S FINGER NAILS.— All 
children should be made to keep their nails 
clean and short. After soaking the hands 
in warm water, the skin round the nail 
should be pressed back to show the half- 
moons. 

BITING THE FINGER NAILS.— 
This is a very common habit in children 
of two years and older, and one which 
often continues in adult life, and ruins the 
shape of the nails. It is generally the ex- 
pression of an inate nervousness. Many 
children bite their nails when excited, 
while others do it even while asleep. 

Treatment should consist in trying to 
relieve the nervous excitability by suitable 
hygienic measures, but this is a difficult 
matter. The habit may be broken by 
dipping the fingers in a solution of some 
bitter substance, or by forcibly keeping 
them from the mouth. 

When a child is over four, the nails 
may be manicured, which will arouse the 
child's pride to take care of them, remov- 
ing much of the temptation to bite by 
keeping them free from loose particles of 
skin. 

NEURALGIA.— For neuralgia apply 
hot, dry flannels as hot as can be borne. 

Another remedy is to apply a cloth satu- 
rated with essence of peppermint. 

GIVING MEDICINE.— When giving 
medicine in a liquid form to a young child 
or infant, place the point of the spoon 
against the roof of the mouth, and in this 
way it is impossible for the child to choke 
or eject the medicine. _ 

GIVING POWDERS.— To prevent any 
portion of a powder being lost in case a 
child coughs or screams while taking it, 
moisten it a little with water, milk, 
hoaey or syrup. 

NURSERY POWDER. — Sift six 
ouoces of the very best fine starch and to 
it add two drachms of powdered orrisroot. 
It can be scented with a drop or two of 
any essence, but is better without. 

CHILDREN'S SLEEP.— From the sec- 
ond year up to the third or fourth, a child 
should be put to sleep for one hour or so 
before its dinner, in a darkened room. 
After this time it may gradually be left 
off. Remember that during the whole 
period of childhood, more sleep is required 
than in adult age. 

Never let children be awakened from 
sleep with a sudden noise or in an im- 
petuous manner, as it is very hurtful, nor 
never carry them from a darkened room 
into a light one, as this is likely to de« 
bilitate the organs of vision and lay the 
seeds of weak eyes. 



SQUINTING.— Children receive the 
chief part of their education till five or six 
years old through outward influence, there- 
fore they should be guarded from seeing 
and coming into contact with any person 
who has a physical deficiency which it is 
possible to imitate. 

Never engage a squinting maid or nurse, 
for the little one will instantly notice the 
difference of appearance from others with 
whom it comes in contact, and will at once 
begin to turn its own little optics in the 
same way. 

Forbid your children to play any tricks 
with their little bodies; such habits, and 
foremost amongst them squinting, should 
be promptly discouraged. 

Paralytic affections of the muscles of the 
eyeball are nearly always attended by a 
squint or double vision; an operation is 
frequently successful in remedying this 
physical deficiency, and a medical man will 
be the best to consult on such a matter, 

STAMMERING.— Occasionally, after a 
child has had scarlatina or measles, he 
commences to stammer. This need not 
especially alarm the mother, for the de- 
fect in articulation may pass off when the 
child regains health and strength. But as 
this is not always the case, for the organs 
of speech have a strange capacity for ac- 
quiring a habit and sometimes, even 
though the weakness be gone, yet the ac- 
tive habit which the speech organs have 
acquired will persistently remain. 

The Remedy. — Regular breathing exer- 
cises are very useful, and insist upon deep 
inhalations of breath. 

CHILDREN'S TEETH .—Children 
have twenty temporary teeth, ten below 
and ten above. The lower ones usually 
appear first. They have the four central 
incisors from five to seven months; the 
four lateral ones from six to ten months; 
the four first molars from eleven to fifteen 
months; the four cuspids from fourteen to 
to twenty-one months; the four second 
molars from twenty months. 

CARE OF CHILDREN'S TEETH.— 

Children should be made to clean their 
teeth at least once a day if not more. The 
best application is a soft brush and luke- 
warm water. Tooth washes are, as a 
rule, injurious. In brushing the brush 
must be moved up and down as well as 
horizontally. Precipitated chalk is harm- 
less and has a beneficial effect on the 
breath. A good dentist should be consulted 
at least twice a year, for children's teeth 
decay much quicker than those of an 
adult. 

TEETHING.— The manner of treating a 
healthy child while teething is very simple. 
Let it be in the open air as much as pos< 
sible; keep the bowels freely open by the 
use of castor oil, as they should be greatly 



122 



RYE AND WHEAT WERE INDIGENOUS IN TARTARY. 



relaxed at this time. Give a daily batb, 
and rub the body dry with as rough a flan- 
nel as the skin of the infant cau bear, fric- 
tion being very useful. 

CHILDREN'S THROATS. — Fatigue 
often brings tonsilitis to children, and in 
cases where colds are apt to settle in the 
throat, let them eat honey on their bread 
instead of butter, and to take it in prefer- 
ence to other sweets. Rice puddings >n 
which honey has taken the place of sugar 
are delicious, wholesome and good for the 
little ones. 

Strengthen their throats with a daily ap- 
plication of cold water, sponging well every 
morning. 

SORE THROAT. — The patient should 
be kept in the house, and lie on the bed 
with a thin covering over the body. Keep 
the bowels open with a mild medicine, and 
give barley-water frequently to drink, as it 
is very soothing to the throat. If the skin 
is hot, bathe the body in tepid water. 
Spray the throat occasionally with a solu- 
tion of peroxide of hydrogen. 

CHILDREN'S T0J5 NAILS. — Few 
nurses understand the proper way to cut a 
child's toe nails, and even mothers neglect 
this important point. A toenail should 
never be rounded like finger nails. The 
nails, from earliest infancy, must be 
trained to grow square, and never, on any 
account, be cut at the sides. 

T H U M B-SUCKING. — Never allow 
children to form the habit of thumb-suck- 
ing, as the constant outward pressure of 
the thumb against the jaw causes project- 
ing teeth. Apply tincture of aloes and 
any other bitter substance to the finger, 
until the child loses the habit of putting 
the thumb in his mouth. 

SMALL WOUNDS.— The danger of 
small wounds does not lie in the actual in- 
jury to the flesh so much as in the likeli- 
hood of dirt finding an entrance through 
the broken skin. No person with dirty 
hands should touch the injured part, and 
any rag used for bathing or bandaging 
should be immaculately clean. If the skin 
be broken on a child's knees or hands, the 
place ought to be bathed immediately to 
remove any gravel or dirt which is there. 

WOOLEN GARMENTS.— Children 
should not be allowed to wear shrunken 
woolen garments, for they are too close to 
be really warm. Loosely woven flannel is 
warmer than a closely woven fabric, there- 
fore loosely fitting garments are warmer 
than close ones. 

SYMPTOMS OF INFECTIOUS DIS- 
EASE. — When a child takes a dislike to 
food and is feverish and fretful it is most 
likely sickening for something. He should 
then be kept in the house, in a warm room 
by himself and as far from the other chil- 



dren as possible. Give him light, easily 
digested food and a dose of fluid magnesia. 
BRONCHITIS.— For bronchitis and 
colds give inhalations of eucalyptus oil; 
this will diminish the cough and irrita- 
tion. _ A little of the oil sprinkled on 
a child's handkerchief and renewed two 
or three times a day will often cure a 
cold in the head if used in time. An 
emetic of ipecac wine and a warm bath 
will often render the disease much milder 
if taken as soon as the cough begins. 
If the disease extends and produces capil- 
lary bronchitis send at once for a doc- 
tor. 

SYMPTOMS OF BRONCHITIS.— 

The first symptoms are a bad cold; soon 
there is a sign of fever, the pulse is rapid, 
the skin very hot, the cough gets much 
worse and the breathing is very quick. 
Place the child in bed, keep as warm as 
possible and send for the doctor, 

CHICKEN POX.— The period of in- 
fection lasts about a fortnight. In or- 
dinary cases a child will not need to be 
kept in bed more than two or three days, 
although he should remain in one room 
until the rash has disappeared. Mothers 
must prevent the child from scratching 
the irritating spots, which are a symp- 
tom of the disease, or they may leave 
an ugly scar. Gloves or bags over the 
hands will prevent any serious harm. 

The symptoms are a rash on the fore- 
head, face and body — not often on the 
limbs — preceded a day or two by a slight 
feverishness. The rash then changes to 
little pimples containing fluid; these 
shrivel and drop off at the end of a 
week; they, as a rule, are widely scattered 
and occasionally produce pitting. There 
is very little to be done; give a simple 
diet, and if constipation, either a dose of 
citrate of magnesia or castor oil. 

CHOLERA INFANTUM.— This is a 
dangerous disease and requires prompt 
attention, and should be at once treated 
by a physician. To quench the thirst 
put a little pounded ice in a bag and let 
the sufferer suck this; feed it on lime 
water and milk, farina, beef tea and 
arrowroot, later mixing a few drops of 
brandy in with the food. Keep the head 
cool with a wet handkerchief, and a 
spice poultice be placed over the stomach 
while the vomiting continues. 

CONVULSIONS.— Send for a doctor at 
once, but should he be delayed there are 
some things that can be done to alleviate 
pain and lessen the danger till he comes. 
Convulsions usually come on very sud- 
denly with few premonitory symptoms; 
the cause of them is teething, worms, 
etc., but they are not as dangerous as 
they look. Resort immediately to the 
hot bath. Always test an infant's bath. 



WHEAT WAS FIRST CULTIVATED IN" PHCENICIA. 



123 



M'itli a Fahrenheit thermometer, 98 degrees 
is the proper heat. 

If no thermometer is handy plunge the 
elbow into the water and test the heat. 
This is far better than the hand. When 
there is not enough hot water to be had 
wring a blanket out in this and wrap 
the baby in it with a dry blanket outside 
the wet one till the bath is ready. The 
heat of the blanket must be somewhat 
cooler than that which can be borne by 
the back of the hand. Only keep the child 
twenty minutes in the bath, or should he 
begin to regain consciousness sooner, or 
the muscles relax then lie may be taken 
cut. . The water in the bath should be 
up to his neck, but support him under 
the armpits and rest his head. Exercise 
great care in adding hot water. It must 
rot be quite boiling, or as it ascends it 
might scald the baby. Pour it in very 
gently far away from the child. Dry him 
quickly with warm, dry, coarse towels 
and then lay him between two blankets. 
Indigestion and worms are the most com- 
mon causes for convulsions; they rarely 
occur after the seventh year. When the 
head is hot apply cold water cloths, and 
if the abdomen is swollen give a castor 
oil and soap water injection. 

COSTIVENESS OR CONSTIPA- 
TION should not be treated by medicine, 
but by proper diet. Oatmeal is useful, 
also a little gruel and milk, and equal 
parts of milk and barley water. 

Girls suffer more than boys from this 
trouble, as they have less exercise, 

A teaspoonful of castor oil is all that 
is necessary. Enemas of castile soap 
used at the same hour every morning, 
about one hour after breakfast, will be 
found useful. 

Brown bread should be substituted for 
white. 

CROUP. — Just before going to bed 
grease the child's chest thoroughly with 
goose grease and ]^j on it a double thick- 
ness of flannel. 

If the strangling comes on suddenly 
mix Scotch snuff and lard together, spread 
this on a piece of brown paper and ap- 
ply instantly to the breast, rubbing the 
throat in the meanwhile with hot goose 
grease, or lard or oil. Or this can be 
done: Dip a flannel in water as hot as 
it can be borne, lay it on the breast, take 
salt butter, spread it on a piece of brown 
paper and apply to the breast and throat. 
Salty butter spread on the throat and 
chest before going to bed is an excellent 
remedy for sore throat. Two or three 
applications are suflBcient. A strip of 
flannel or a soft napkin folded length- 
wise and dipped in hot water and wrung 
out, then applied around the neck of a 
child suffering from croup, will usually 
bring relief in a few minutes. Children 



subject to croup require close attention, 
the gums may need lancing, worms ma.y 
cause them, or the child may be weak 
and require tonics. One or two drop 
doses of tincture of iron will prove bene- 
ficial. 

DIARRHOEA.— Tliis is only danger- 
ous when vomiting occurs; it tlien be- 
comes cholera infantum and requires med- 
ical aid at once. It is due to teething, 
the mother's milk being out of order, 
her suckling the child whtn pregnant, 
or from cold or improper food. There 
is no fever and the child quickly recovers 
with proper treatment. Give the child 
the juice pressed out of fresh raw 
beef, a teaspoonful, slightly salted, every 
hour or two, and add a few drops of 
brandy in extreme cases. For an older 
child five or eight grain doses of subni- 
trate of potash mixed with sugar or a 
mixture of two drachms each of pare- 
goric and tincture of catechu and one 
ounce of chalk given in teaspoonful doses 
according to age. 

DIPHTHERIA.— This disease frequent- 
ly appears with a simple sore throat, occurs 
at all ages, but most frequently in child- 
hood. It is due to certain germs in the 
air, and is caused by bad drainage, foul 
odors, stagnant water, etc. It is a most 
infectious and fatal disease and requires 
prompt and active treatment. Examine 
The throat, and if the tonsils and palate 
are inflamed or even a suspicion of white 
spots are to be seen, send at once for the 
doctor. 

The child requires the best of nursing 
and nourishiL'g food, but not tnough to 
overload .ts stomach. Iron i» the best 
medicine, and a teaspoonful of the follow- 
ing mixture can be given every two or 
three hours: 

One drachm chlorate of potash, one 
drachm tincture of iron, and one ounce 
each of glycerine and water. 

Keep the patient in a room by himself 
and all other children away, and keep 
all towels, cups, and glasses separate from 
those of the other inmates of the house. 

NURSING DIPHTHERIA CASES.— 
The? mother or attendant should be careful 
never to op»-n the mouth while bending 
over the sick child, as the disease is most 
infi'CtioLis. She should not speak when 
her face is. near to his, and should breathe 
only through the nose. If this precaution 
is taken, and strict rules as to disinfec- 
tion and ventilation are observed, there 
is little danger of the disease spreading. 

All the discharges from the mouth and 
nose should be n^ceived upon rags or paper 
and burned immediately. 

HIVES. — Hives are caused by iTites- 
tinal irritation, and in young children 
are often due to indigestion. Feed the 
child on bread and milk and crackers only, 



124 



THE JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE IS A NATIVE OF BRAZIL. 



and half a teaspoonful of the following 
mixture every morning and night: 

Two grams fluid extract of senna; five 
grams aromatic fluid cascara, 10 grams 
roclielle salts and a mixture of rhubarb 
and soda up to 30 grams. ^ A bran bath at 
bedtim« relieves the itching. 

JAUNDICE. — Sometimes a child when 
a week or two old will assume a yellow 
hue and have the appearance of jaundice. 
This will ordinarily pass away without 
medical treatment. However, should it 
Dot do so after a day or two, give the 
child castor oil once or twice. Real jaun- 
dice may occur at this early age, and a 
serious disease will have to be dealt with, 
but this seldom happens and the early 
jaundice as a rule need not cause any 
alarm. 

.Jaundice usually occurs in summer 
when the weather is very hot. 

MEASLES.— Children with the measles 
Fufiftr constantly fmm thirst, and may be 
given as much to dvink as tliey like. Be- 
fore the rasu is fully developed^ give only 
warm drinks to prevent any internal 
chill. 

Barley water flavored with lemon is a 
favorite drink for children. 

Let the child drink plenty of milk, and 
barley-water added to it is even more 
refreshing. 

Keep the room well ventilated. 

Symptoms. — The early stage begins 
with a severe cold in the head, sneezing 
and nose and eyes running, these being 
especially swollen. The child coughs, has 
no appetit'e and is restless. After four 
days a red rash appears on the face, neck 
and body, this disappearing after five 
days. I\eep the patient wagu, and in one 
room while the rash is out, for any ex- 
posure to cold will drive it in. If bron- 
chitis complicates the disease, apply a 
warm poultice to t)ie chest, "and for this 
the following mixture may be given from 
half to one teaspoonful according to cir- 
cumstances. Two drachms sweet spirits of 
nitre, one drachm paregoric, half an ounce 
each of syrup of squills and syrup of 
ipecac. 

MUMPS. — Begin with the usual symp- 
toms of a cold, followed by stiffness in the 
neck, and pain in the lower jaw which 
aches considerably when swallowing. A 
swelling then appears on one or both sides 
of the face. This increases rapidly for 
about two davs when it begins to lessen. 
Th:? gland sometimes takes ten days to 
return to its proper size. Headache and 
fever generally attend this ailment, sub- 
siding with The swelling. Mumps should 
be treated like an ordinary cold, apply- 
ing warm poultices constantly to the gland. 
It is both contagious and infectious. If 
the swelling leaves the gland and goes 
to some other part, apply a flaxseed poul- 



tice. Never use strong liniments for 
mumps, they are very harmful. The 
danger is from draughts, cold and damp. 

RICKETS.— This disease is caused 
from softness of the bones and constitu- 
tional weakness. Over nursed or 
prematurely weaned chudren are sub- 
ject to it, and infants should never be 
suckled after the ninth m.onth, the milk 
then becoming injurious both to mother 
and child. The disease appears between 
the seventh month and the second year. 
The child perspires very freely at night, is 
thin, pale and puny. The urine is ex- 
cessive, and the child is peevish through 
pain. 

Salt water baths every day, nutritious 
food, no sweets and give the patient cod- 
liver oi!, iron and hyi)ophosphites. 

If the disease is allowed to develop, the 
spine will be curved, the child will stop 
growing and be knock-kneed, but the brain 
is not affected. A dry, pure atmosphere 
is necessary to effect a cure. 

RINGWORM.— This is usually caught 
from another child using the same towels 
and brushes. It often occurs in delicate 
children. 

The symptoms are small patches of 
scurf on the head, which spread to about 
the size of a quarter of a dollar. The 
head should be washed twice a day with 
soft soap and warm water and when dry 
rub the places with a piece of linen rag 
dipped in ammonia from gas tar. The 
hair may be shaved off and linseed poul- 
tices applied two or three times a day. 
Give the patient a little sulphur and trea- 
cle or some gentle aperient every morn- 
ing. Ringworm on tiie body has the same 
shaped patches but slightly raised. 

A CURE FOR RINGWORM.— A sure 
cure is to place a copper penny in a sau- 
cer and cover it with vinegar. When It 
has turned quite green, paint the affected 
part over with a camel's hair brush. A 
few dressings will quite destroy it. Keep 
this out of the reach of children. 

Another cure is to spread common black 
ink on the ringworm with a camel's hair 
brush. Renew the ink every day. 

SCARLATINA.— The first symptoms 
are generally vomiting, a very rapid pulse, 
tongue and throat bright red, and ulcers 
sometimes appear at the back of the 
throat. Scarlet fever and scarlatina are 
the same. Place the child in a large, well 
aired room, but where no draughts can 
reach it. Peed it on milk and water, ar- 
rowroot, bread and milk and other similar 
light food. Give it no broth or stimu- 
lants. If constipated give it a dose of 
citrate of magnesia from time to time, and 
if restless an occasional warm mustard 
foot bath. Bathe the head and face with 
bay rum or other cooling water. For the- 



THE PEACH IS DERIVED PROM THE ALMOND. 



125 



itching, glycerine and cold cream may be 
applied. 

When convalescing, and the skin is 
peeling off, avoid exposure or checking 
perspiration, for the skin must have free 
action to prevent lung or kidney disease. 
The eruption usually declines on the fifth 
day and fades away completely on the 
seventh. 

SCROFULA.— This appears in the en- 
largement of til 3 lymphatic glands about 
the neck, and is due to a deficient nutri- 
tion; it may occur in almost any one. 
Cod liver oil is the most generally used 
medicine, also iron and iodine in all its 
forms, but, of course, by a doctor's pre- 
scription. The patient must have pure air, 
light and warm clothing and a diet of 
fresh animal food. Keep the bowels well 
regulated. 

CURVATURE OF THE SPINE.— 
This deformity comes on insidiously, for at 
first there is no special derangement of 
the health. A very careful watch should 
be kept on slendar and delicate girls, espe- 
cially should suspicion be aroused if the 
digestion is sluggish and there seems to be 
languor and fatigue. In serious cases the 
doctor frequently orders a recumbent posi- 
tion. Curvature of the spine seldom appears 
before the tenth year. The outward sign of 
it is the prominence of the right hip gen- 
erally, and the elevation of the correspond- 
ing shoulder, the other hip and shoulder 
being respectively flattened and depressed. 
This arises from weakness of the spinal 
muscles and local elongation of the liga- 
ments of the vertebrae, from the habit of 
resting the weight of the body more on 
one side than the other. Always check 
any incMnation of a child standing or sit- 
ting in an unequal positiou. Correct it by 
exercises that will bring the muscles of 
the other side into play. Change the na- 
ture of the eniployment constantly, so that 
no one side is habitually used. Move the 
child's chair with regard to the light 
thrown on work or book, so that the twist 
of the body may be unconsciously towards 
the side which is not always worked. 

THRUSH is not a serious complaint of 
young children, but should be checked at 
"once if possible. It appears usually in 
hand-fed children, and may be prevented 
or arrested by keeping the babe's mouth 
perfectly clean. After every meal the 
mouth should be cleansed with a rag 
dipped in warm water or glycerine and 
rose water. As a laxative administer 
magnesia; if the child has severe diar- 
rhoea, add a little lime water to the milk, 
or a teaspoonful of chalk mixture three or 
four times a day. The disease is most 
common in infancy. The child sickens 
considerably and death has been known to 
be caused by the diarrhoea. 

WHOOPING-COUGH.— Mix well one 



drachm each of tincture of eucalyptus and 
glycerine. For a child one year old give 
six drops in a little water in a teaspoon 
every four hours. Add two drops for each 
additional year of age — for a child two 
years old, eight drops, and so on. Should 
a paroxysm occur between the interval of 
doses, give half a dose. Keep the child 
warm, the system well nourished and the 
bowels open, and with care in these re- 
spects, the disease will not last over three 
weeks, and the debilitating illness will be 
avoided. 

Try breathing the fumes of turpentine 
or carbolic acid. 

Keep the child isolated from other chil- 
dren. 

The child should be kept warm and for 
the first few days fed only on very light 
nourishing food, such as arrowroot, 
chicken broth, light milk puddings, etc. 

Efforts should be made to have the child 
bring up the phlegm, and if it cannot 
manage to do this, give it a dessertspoon- 
ful of ipecacuanha wine for a child five 
or six years old; for a younger one give 
only a teaspoonful. Wrap the child warm- 
ly in flannel, disinfect the room two or 
three times a day, and when the fever 
has passed keep it out of doors as much 
as possible, first obtaining the doctor's 
consent. Whooping-cough is an infectious 
disease. 

WORMS. — Thread worms and round 
worms are the ones that principally infest 
children, they generally produce stomach 
ache, variable appetite, nose-picking, bad 
breath, itching of the anus, and grinding 
teeth. There are various vermifuge or 
anthelmintic remedies for ridding the 
bowels of these. 

Calomel, male fern, cowhage, wormseed 
and others can be used as decoctions or 
teas. 

Keep the child clean: inject either salt 
and water, one ounce and a half of salt to 
a pint of water, or a pint of cold water 
containing a teaspoonful of tincture of 
steel, or quassia chips and water, thereby 
diviating the necessity of giving medicine. 

INFECTIOUS AND CONTAGIOUS 
DISEASES—WHEN THEY APPEAR 
—SYMPTOMS. 

Chickenpox. — After twenty-four hours; 
scabs on fourth day of fever. 

Diphtheria — Second day. Sore throat 
and fever. 

Erysipelas— Third day; redness and- 
swelling. 

Measles — Fourth day; red dots like flea-, 
bites. 

Mumps — Nineteenth day; swelling of the- 
glands. 

Scarlet fever — Twenty-four hours; scar- 
let, beginning on the spinal bone. 

Smallpox — Third day — scabs form oiu 
ninth day, fall on fourteenth. 



126 



PLANTS IN "WATER GROW, BUT DIE EARLY. 



Typhoid fever — Eleventh to fourteenth 
day; scattered red spots; diarrhoea. 

INFECTIOUS AND CONTAGIOUS 
DISEASES — PATIENT IS INFEC- 
TIOUS. 

Chickenpox — Ten to eighteen days; un- 
til all scabs have fallen. 

Diphtheria — Two weeks after mem- 
brane has disappeared. 

Measles — Three weeks; until cough and 
scaling have ceased. 

Mumps — Three weeks; two weeks from 
commencement. 

Scarlet fever — Six weeks; until all scal- 
ing has eeasod. 

Smallpox — Until all scabs have fallen. 

Typhoid fever — Three weeks; until diar- 
rhoea ceases. 

Whooping-cough — Six weeks from time 
the whoop began. • 

NUMBER OF MEALS A HEALTHY 
BABY REQUIRES IN 24 HOURS. 

One week old, ten meals, two ounces 
each. 

One month old, nine meals, four ounces 
each. 

Tavo months old, eight meals, six ounces 
each. 

Nine months old, seven meals, eight 
ounces each. 

Eight months old, six meals, nine 
ounces each. 

The quantity is less at eight months, 
but the food will be stronger than before, 

THE WEIGHT AND HEIGHT OF 
A HEALTHY CHILD.— Growth is less 
rapid in children during dentition. 

Three hours old, eighteen inches high, 
eight pounds weight. 

Three months old, twenty-two and one- 
half inches high, thirteen pounds weight. 

Six months old, twenty-five inches high, 
sixteen pounds weight. 

Nine months old, twenty-seven and one- 
half inches high, nineteen pounds weight. 

One year old, twenty-nine inches high, 
twenty-two pounds weight. 

Threa years old, three feet high, thirty- 
two pounds weight. 

Five years old, three feet five inches 
high, forty pounds weight. 

Six years old, three feet seven inches 
high, forty-four pounds weight. 

Eight years old. three feet eleven inches 
high, fifty-six inches high. 

CHILDREN'S COOKING. 

FARLEY WATER.— Wash a table- 
spoonful of barley, put it in a quart of 
cold water and boil it rapidly till it re- 
duces to a pint. Then strain through a 
coarse cloth. This is excellent to add to 
infant's milk to prevent it curdling on the 
stomach. 

RICE WATER. — Make this the same 
way as barley water, and give it in pref- 
erence wlien diarrhoea is apparent. 



BEEF JUICE. — Take two pounds of 
very lean beef, fi-ee from skin and fat and 
cut it up veiy small. Set it in a basin 
and pom* over four tablespoonfuls of cold 
water, and let it soak one hour. Put all 
into an earthenware jar with a cover; tie 
ever with buttered paper. Let the jar 
si and in a saucepan of boiling water so 
that the water reaches to the neck of the 
jar. Boil steadily, but not too fast, for 
three hours, then strain through thick 
muslin. About a tablespoonful of this, 
essence with two tablespoonfuls of water 
will be excellent in cases of great weak- 
ness. 

BREAD AND MILK.— This is an ex- 
cellent food for children over one year old. 
The bread must never be used while uev: 
— two da.NS old is best — ar.d it must be 
soaked iu boiling water, steamed for fif- 
teen minutes, the water poured off and 
boiling miik added. Another method is to 
cut the bread into 'nch square pieces and 
b«il in milk for about five minutes. 

STALE BREAD should be given to 
childi'en iu preference to new, as it is 
more easily digested, owing to the fact 
that the gluten is, by msstication, more 
thoroughly mixed with the saliva before 
it IS swallowed. 

EGGS FOR B4BIES AND YOUNG 
CHILI'REN. — Eggs are sometimes very 
repulsive to small children, brt one pro- 
pared this way will be acceptable even to 
a baby. 

Place the egg in a cup, remove the 
speck, and beat up with a fork for fifteen 
minutes, then add a little hot water and 
milk and sweeten to taste. This must be 
divided into two meals. One eerg every 
twenty-four hours will suffice with other 
food between. For a delicate child from 
two to seven years old, a properly beaten 
egg and a little milk is an excellent early 
morning beverage. 

STEWED FRUITS.— Stewed fresh or 
dried fruits should often be given to chil- 
dren, and a piece of bread to be eaten 
witli if not served with boiled rice. 
Stewed prunes, dates and figs can always 
be had and pre very wholesome. 

CHILDREN'S MEAT must be either 
broiled, roasted or boiled. Give the chil- 
dren no stews, hashes or fries, nor twice 
cooked meats, and pork, veal, turkey, 
goose and duck should be excluded from 
their bill of fare. 

MILK PUDDINGS.— These inchide 
baked rice, tapioca, sago or ground rice 
made in the usual way. A spoonful of 
jam may be given with each helping and 
will make the children like the pudding 
all the more. Plain rice, boiled for twenty 
minutes and eaten with sugar and milk, is 
one of their favorite dishes. 



BULBS ARE BUDS UjSTDERGROUND. 



127 



TERMS USED TO DENOTE THE 
PROPERTIES OF MEDICINES, 

ABSORBENTS. — Destroy acidity in 
the bowels and stomach. Prepared chalk 
or magnesia, etc. 

ALTERATIVES.— Restore health with- 
out any other effect. Sarsaparilla, sul- 
phur, etc. 

ANALEPTICS. — Restore wasted 
strength. Bark, tonics, etc. 

ANODYNES. — Relieve pain. Mor- 
phine, ether, camphor, etc. 

ANTACIDS.— Destroy acidity. Lime, 
soda, chalk, magnesia. 

ANTALKALIES. — Destroy alkalies. 
Acids and lemon juice. 

ANTHELMINTICS.— Expel worms. 
Turpentine, tin, scammony, cowhage, fern- 
root. 

ANTIARTHRITIES. — Influence the 
blood and produce gravel, diabetes and 
diseased joints. 

ANTIBILIOUS. — Counteract billious- 
ness. Calomel, etc. 

ANTICONVULSIONS.— Cure convul- 
sive disorders arising from poorness of 
the blood. 

ANTIDYSPEPTICS.— Relieve dyspep- 
sia. Soda, pepsin, etc. 

ANTIEMETICS. — Subdue vomiting. 
Lime water. 

ANTIPERIODICS. — Prevent diseases 
of a periodic nature. Quinine, etc. 

ANTIPHLOGISTICS.— For inflamma- 
tory fevers; counteract inflammation. 

ANTIPYRETICS.— Reduce the tem- 
perature of the body during fevers. An- 
tipyrene, etc. 

ANTIRHEUMATICS.— Reduce rheu- 
matic troubles. Colchicum. Iodide of 
potash, etc. 

ANTISCORBUTICS.^Against scurvy, 
Citric and lemon juice. 

ANTISEPTICS.— Prevent putrefaction. 
Camphor, charcoal, vinegar. 

ANTISPASMODICS. — For nervous 
trouble and spasms. Opium, camphor, 
valerian, chloroform. 

AROMATICS.— Pleasant to the taste 
and smell. Prevent griping pains in pur- 
fcatives. Orange peel, cinnamon, carda- 
mons, etc. 



ASTRINGENTS. - Diminish hemor- 
rhages or diarrhoea by contracting the 
muscular tissue. Chalk, bark, etc. 

ATTENUANTS. — Thin th.e blood. 
Iron, etc. 

BALSAMICS. — Soothing medicines. 
Balsam, tolu, bark, etc. 

CARMINATIVES.-Allay stomach and 
bowel pains. Ginger tea, aniseed, etc. 

CATHARTICS. — Strong purgatives. 
Rhubarb, salts, calomel, etc. 

CAUSTICS.— Remove external growths 
like warts. Lunar caustic, iodine, etc. 

CHOLAGOGUES.— Increase flow of 
bile, and improve the action of the liver. 

CORDIALS. — Warm, exhilarating med- 
icines. Brandy, liquors, cordials, etc. 

CORROBORANTS.— To increase 
strength. Wine, beef, iron, etc. 

DELIRIANTS.— Stimulants to have a 
sedative action over the heart and circula- 
tion. 

DEMULCENTS. — Soften irritations 
and correct acrimony. Gum, linseed, 
marshmallow, etc. 

DEOBSTRUENTS.— Remove obstruc- 
tions. Iodide of potash, etc. 

DESCUTIENTS.— Repel tumors. Io- 
dide, mercury, etc. 

DETERGENTS. — Clean surfaces. 
Soap, carbolic, etc. 

DIAPHORETICS.— Increase perspira- 
tion. Camphor, opium, sarsaparilla, ace- 
tate of ammonia, etc. 

DIGESTIVES.— Applied to ulcers and 
wounds in the form of warm poultices, 
salves, etc. 

DILUENTS. — Watery compounds. 
Broth, weak tea. 

DIURETICS.— Act on the kidneys and 
bladder. Nitre, oil of turpentine, etc. 

DRASTICS.— Violent purgatives. 

EMETICS.— Substances to induce vom- 
iting. Mustard, hot water, ipecacuanha, 
etc. 

EMMENAGOGUES.— Act directly on 
the womb. Iron, ergot, pennyroyal, mer- 
cury, etc. 

EMOLLIENTS. — Soften external 

parts. Poultices, palm oil, spermaceti, etc. 
EPISPASTICS.— To blister and raise 
the skin. Mustard, Spanish flies, pitch, 
galbanum, etc. 



128 



THE PLUM HAD ITS ORIGIN" IN THE SLOE. 



ERRHINES.— Produce sneezing. Snuff, 
camphor, etc. 

ESCHAROTICS.— Destroy animal tis- 
sues. More powerful than caustics, Lunar 
caustic, chloride of ziuc, bluestone, etc. 

EXPECTORANTS. — Increase expec- 
toration. Squills, ipecacuanha, tolu, etc. 

FEBRIFUGES.— Check fevers. Qui- 
nine, phenacetin, etc. 

H.EMASTATICS. — Contract the 
blood vessels, preventing iuward hemor- 
rhages. Ergot, tannic acid, etc. 

HYDRAGOGUES. — Produce watery 
discharges in dropsy. Calomel, gamboge, 
etc. 

HYPNOTICS.— To relieve pain and 
produce sleep. Morphine, hops, henbane, 
poppies, etc.. 

LAXATIVES.— Milder than cathartics. 
Rhubarb, liquorice root, manna, etc. 

NARCOTICS.— Poisons tliat act on the 
brain; they cause sleep and allay pain. 
Morphine, ether, chloral, alcohol opium. 

NUTRIENTS. — For nourishing the 
body. Beef tea, sugar, jellies, etc. 

PAREGORICS.— Allay pain. Hops, 
epium, chloral, etc. 



PROPHYLACTICS.— To check dis- 
ease. Quinine. 

PURGATIVES.— For eTaeuating the 

bowels. Salts, senna, etc. 

REFRIGERANTS.— Cooling body. Ni- 
tre, cream of tartar, etc. 

RUBEFACIENTS.— To cause redness 
of the skin. Mustard, etc. 

SEDATIVES.— To calm the nervous 
system. Opium, camphor, valerian, etc. 

SIALOGOGUES. — Promote saliva. 
Tobacco, salt, vinegar. 

SOPORIFICS.— Mi'.d medicines to in- 
duce sleep. Hops. etc. 

STIMULANTS.— To increase the heart 
action and invigorate the blood. Food, 
wine, spirits, ether, etc. 

STOMACHICS.— Improve the appetite 
and tone of the stomach. Bark, wine, 
gentian, etc. 

SUDORIFICS. — Induce perspiration. 
Antimony, ammonia, etc. 

TONICS. — For improving the health 
and give strength. Bitters, minerals, wines, 
beer, etc. 

VESICANTS. — Blistering substancos. 
Strong liquid ammonia, musstard, etc. 



CELERY IS DERIVED FROM SMALLAGE. 



139 



Medicines and their Properties 



ACETATE OF AMMONIA —The solu- 
tion of this drug is useful for producing 
perspiraticyu. It is used externally for 
an eye-wash, for scald head or for in- 
flamed milk breasts. Taken internally in 
febrile diseases it promotes perspiration. 

Dose; From a half to one and a half 
ounces every three or four hours. 

ACETATE OF LEAD WITH 
OPIUM. — Applied in cutaneous diseases, 
and used as an astringent. 

To prepare it, take twenty grains of 
acetate of lead, one drachm of powdered 
opium, and add four ounces of warm 
water and one ounce of vinegar. Filter 
after one hour. 

ACETATE OF POTASSA.— Given in- 
ternally with an infusion of quassia for 
kidney trouble. Also used for dropsy, and 
a cathartic, the latter dose being from two 
to three drachms. 

ACETATE OF ZINC— Used as an as- 
tringent wash. This forms a valuable 
eye water. 

Dissolve two scruples of acetate of zinc 
in five ounces of water. Mix these solu- 
tions, set aside for a short time and after- 
wards filter. 

ACONITE.— This is a powerful poison 
used sometimes in liniments to induce a 
moist condition of the skin and to counter- 
act all inflammation. 

ALCOHOL. — This rectified spirit is a 
very powerful stimulant and is never 
used as a remedy without being diluted to 
the degree called proof spirit, and then is 
seldom used internally. 

Used externally for stopping bleeding, 
as a lotion to burns, applied by dipping a 
piece of lint in the spirit and laying it over 
the part. 

Alcohol is an irritant poison and its con- 
stant use causes dyspepsia or indigestion 
and other serious complaints. 

The best alcoholic tonic and stimulant 
is brandy. 

ALMONDS.— This fruit is made into a 
demulcent mixture and is used for allay- 
ing the cough of one suffering from inflam- 
mation of the lungs. 

One drachm and a half each of ipecac- 
uanha and wine of antimony to seven 
ounces and a half of almond mixture. 

Dose: A tablespoonful every four 
hours in congh with fever. 

The milk of bitter almonds is used as a 
face lotion for skin eruptions. 



Take bichloride of mercury, four grains; 
milk of bitter almonds, seven ounces; 
spirits of rosemary, one ounce. Bathe the 
face three times a day. 

_ ALOES. — In large doses it is a purga- 
tive and cathartic, and a tonic in small 
doses. Given in powders, pills, tinctures, 
extracts and compound decoctions by phy- 
sician's prescription. 

ALUM. — Used as an astringent eye- 
wash, for outward application only, by dis- 
solving half a drachm of alum in half a. 
pint of water. 

For a gargle, dissolve one drachm of 
alum in fifteen ounces of water, add half 
an ounce of treacle and one drachm of di- 
luted sulphuric acid. Use as an astringent. 

For diabetes and in uterine fluxes, etc., 
boil a pint of milk with two drachms of 
alum until a curd is formed. Strain off the 
liquor, add two ounces of spirit of nut- 
meg and one ounce of syrup of cloves. 

For offensive breath, add two teaspoon- 
fuls of alum to a tumblerful of water, mix 
and rinse the mouth. 

ALUM AS A FIRE PREVEN- 
TIVE. — Alum destroys the great inflam- 
mability of cambric, muslin and laces. 
Dissolve alum in the rinsing water after 
the clothes have been boiled, or mix the 
starch with water to which alum has been 
added, taking care it is well dissolved. If 
this precaution was more usually adopted 
there would be less accidents from fire. 

WATER, PURIFIED BY ALUM.— 
Swing a piece of alum tied round by a 
bit of string through the water drank at 
the seashore. It will only take a moment 
and it will send all the organic matter to 
the bottom of the vessel. 

AMMONIA. — Ammonia has become 
quite a household cleaner and is invaluable 
for many purposes. It is a grease eradi- 
cator, and mixed with an equal part of 
boiling water, will remove stains of grease 
from carpets, clothes, etc. When wash- 
ing paint, a few drops of ammonia in the 
water will assist in removing finger marks 
and dirt. In delicate kinds of washing, 
such as laces, curtains, embroidered cen- 
trepieces or doylies, put ammonia in the 
water and use as little soap as possible^ 
It is used for cleaning rattanwork, brass 
ornaments, sponges and many other deli- 
cate articles. 

AROMATIC SPIRITS OF AM- 



130 FLOWERS OF ONE CLI:MATE OPEN AT A DIFFERENT HOUR IN OTHERS. 



MOXIA. — Used as a stimulating hair- 
wash. 

Mix together and rub on well twice a 
day, three drachms of tiucture of canthari- 
des, spirits of rosemary one ounce, one 
ounce of aromatic spirits of ammonia and 
rose water enough to make eight ounces. 

It also stimulates the action of the 
heart, and is very reviving and refreshing. 

AMMONIA, BICARBONATE OP.— 

Used internally the same as sal volatile. 
It is frequently combined with Rochelle 
salts. Dose from six to twelve grains. 

AMMONIA, OR SAL VOLATILE.— 
A colorless liquid, stimulating, antacid and 
combined with oil as a cheap and useful 
liniment, but it should be dissolved in 
proof spirit before the oil is added. 

For rheumatic pains, mix together cue 
part of sal volatile and three parts of ex- 
tract of belladonna; spread this plaster on 
leather and apply. 

For hysterics, faintness and lassitude 
apply to the nose as common smelling 
salts. 

Used internally with an infusion of gen- 
tian for dyspepsia and gout. Dose from 
five to fifteen grains. 

AMMONIA, SOLUTION OF SES- 
QUICARBONATE.— Used the same as 
sal volatile. 

Dose: From half a drachm to one 
drachm, combined with almond emulsion. 

AMMONIACUM. — Is an expectorant^ 
and antispasmodic, and allays severe un- 
intlamed pain. Given internally in asth- 
ma, hysteria and chronic catarrh. 

Dose: Ten to twenty grains. 

Used externally for repelling tumors,, 
etc. ! 

ANGOSTURA BARK OR CUSPA- 
RIA. — Is a stimulating tonic. It warms 
the stomach and improves the appetite. 
Given for all cases of debility where a 
tonic is needed, and is useful for dyspepsia, 
hysteria, etc. It is made into an extract 
and an infusion. The dose of the extract 
is from three to ten grains. The infusion 
from one to two ounces. It must not be 
given in fevers or inflammatory diseases. 

ANTIMONY. OR TARTAR EMETIC. 
— Induces perspiration, is an emetic, an 
expectorant and an alterative. 

It is used externally as an irritant in 
white swellings and inflammations in the 
form of an ointment. 

Given internally by advice of a phys'- 
cian only in pleurisy, bilious fevers and 
other diseases. It is a poison and requires 
care in administering the medicine. 

ANTIMONIAL POWDER.— Is an 
emetic and alterative. 

Given internally in febrile diseases, and 
is useful in rheumatism when combined 
with calomel or opium. 

Dose: From three to ten grains erery 



four hours. Driuk plenty of warm fluids 
between each dose. 

ANTIPYRINE.— Is a new and useful 
medicine given for asthma, bronchial af- 
fections, seasickness, whooping-cough, etc., 
and is applied externally as an anti- 
septic. 

It is highly recommended for skin dis- 
eases when these are accompanied by irri- 
tation and itching, and in eruptions on chil- 
dren. Physicians prescribe it in powders 
or else in a solurion. 

It is also prescribed for children's diar- 
rhoea, in doses of one to one and a half 
grains. 

Antipyrine has the power to con- 
dense or thicken the blood without coagu- 
lating it. 

Should it cause nausea it must be given 
in aerated water. 

It reduces the temperature of the body 
during fevers if given in one and a quar- 
ter to one and a half drachm doses, in 
hourly portions of fifteen to thirty grains. 

APERIENT PILLS.— These are given 
to adults when liquid medicines produce 
such nausea that pills are the only form 
of medicine that can be taken. 

To be made up by physician's prescrip- 
tion, but there are many kinds already pre- 
pared for sale at all drug stores. 

Aperients move the bowels gently and 
consist of rhubarb, manna and grey pow- 
der. 

ARNICA, TINCTURE OP.— Excellent 
for sprains and bruises, diluting half an 
ounce of the tincture in a tumblerful of 
water. 

Never apply it to an open sore as it 
is apt to cause erysipelas. 

ASSAFOETIDA. — Is antispasmodic, 
expectorant and stimulating. 

For expelling worms from the bowels 
or convulsions in children produced from 
teething, give one drachm of the tincture 
of assafoetida in a pint of barley water. 

Never give this drug when inflammation 
exists. Given internally it is also useful 
for dyspepsia, flatulent colic and all nerv- 
ous diseases, and is an excellent remedy in 
whooping-cough and asthma. 

BELL.VDONNA — Acts on the kidneys, 
is a heart tonic and increases perspira- 
tion; to be given by doctor's prescriptions 
only. 

It makes an excellent liniment for pains 
in the joints, etc., bv mixing one drachm 
oil of mustard, one drachm extract of bel- 
ladonna, two drachms camphor, five 
drachms of castor oil and four ounces 
of alcohol. 

Belladonna and Ignatia are given for 
sick headaches. 

BENZINE.— French b nzlne is far the 
safest thing to remove stains with. Rub 
round and round, so as not to leave a ring 
shaped mark, and put a little pad of 



LEAVES HAVE THEIR ORIGIN" IN THE BARK. 



131 



clean white flannel under the stain. Be 
careful not to use it near a fire or light. 

When applied to beds it will keep bed- 
bugs away. Use it throu.trh an oil-oan, 
and saturate all parts of the bed with it. 

BENZOIN. — Is a dried Juioe for calm- 
ing the uerv'js and an expectorant. Ben- 
zoic acid is th? white crystals, both an- 
tispasmodic and diuretic, being the flow- 
ers of benzoin. It is found in vanilla, 
canella and the urine of infants and herb- 
ivorous animals. Its odor is aromatic, 
its taste pungent and somewhat acidulous. 

Benzoin is used in the preparation of 
benzoic acid in medicine and as a per- 
fume, also for softening water that is used 
for toilet purposes. 

BISMUTH. — An antispasmodic and ab- 
sorbent in a white powder form. 

It is given to check dysentery by ene- 
mas. Mix: 24 grains of subnitrate of bis- 
muth, 20 drops of laudanum, mucilage 
of starch, 1 ounce. Mix and inject. 

BLACK HELLEBORE— A cathartic 
root used in medicine as an evacuant and 
alterative. 

BLUESTONE OR SULPHATE OF 
COPPER. — Is used in a solution of from 
four to fifteen grains to an ounce of water, 
and applied to indolent ulcers, dipping a 
rag into it. 

It is rubbed on warts and fungous 
growths to destroy them. It is a poison. 

BORACIC ACID.— This is very cleans- 
ing for skin diseas-'S. oifensive sores, etc., 
also excellent for spraying the throat and 
nostrils. For the sores have a lotion of 
two drachms of boracic acid, one drachm 
almond oil, one drachm white wax and 
enough vaseline to make one ounce; ap- 
ply on to the affected parts. 

Eoracic acid is generally obtaintd from 
borax adding sulphuric acid. 

It is also called boric acid. 

BORAX.— The utility of borax for me- 
dicinal and cleansing properties is unlim- 
ited. It can be used for eye-washes, sore 
throats, thrush in young children, as a 
disinfectant, as an antiseptic, for cleans- 
ing, as a vermin killer, in cookery, as a 
preservative for meats, for the toilet, in 
the nursery, in the garden, for the dead, 
in cases of fever and, in fact, almost for 
any purpose that requires a clearsing, anti- 
septic remedy. 

Alone or dissolved in water, it remove-^ 
all bad, unwholesome odors, it acts as a 
purifier; it has no smell, but will destroy 
the very worst ones. 

BORAX— ITS USES. 

I. — Pnt borax into water used for wash- 
ing alabaster, marble and china bric-a- 
brac. 

II. — Put a little borax into the starch 
used for collars, cuffs, and shirt fronts, to 
give a slight gloss. 



III. — Put borax to the water used for 
v/ashing flannels and lace. 

IV. — Pour teaspoonfuls of borax to a 
pint of warm water makes an excellent 
stiffening for lace, muslin and chiffon. 

V. — Borax in the pantry keeps food 
sweet. 

VI. — Borax keeps flies away from meat. 

VII. — Borax softens hard water. Use 
very little. 

VIII. — Borax should be put in the tea- 
pot; a small pinch is enough. A better 
beverage is produced from a small quan- 
tity of tea. 

BRANDY. — Distilled from grape wine, 
usually about half alcohol and half water. 

Useful in case • of sickness, especially 
dysentery and heart failure. 

BRIMSTONE.— Flour of brimstone, 
also called sublimed sulphur, is a mild 
aperient. 

A dose is about a quarter of an ounce, 
best taken in milk or in molasses, an equal 
part of each. 

BROMIDE OP POTASH.— Used for 
quieting the nerves, especially after drink- 
ing. 

Dose: Bromide of potash 30 grains; 
aromatic spirits of ammonia 30 drops, and 
half an ounce of syrup of orange-peel. 
Mix, and take with plenty of water. 

BROMO-CAFFEINE.— Relieves head- 
aches brought on by overwork and mental 
excitement, also indigestion, and the re- 
sults of excessive drinking and narcotic 
habits. 

It is a cheaper drug than Bromo-Seltzer, 
which it resembles greatly, tea dust being 
the base of both. 

A dose is a heaping dessertspoonful in 
half a tumbler of water, and drank while 
effervescing. Repeat in half an hour 'f 
necessary. 

BROMO-SELTZER.— Is a remedy for 
nervous headache, alcoholic excesses, brain 
fatigue and sleeplessness. 

It is composed of Rochelle salts, caf- 
feine and acetanilid, combined with bicar- 
bonate of soda and tartaric acid. 

It acts on the nerves the same as other 
bromides, and is taken in a dose of a heap- 
ing teaspoonful in half glass of water, re- 
peating in half an hour if necessary. 

BRYONY.— A root having purgative 
qualities, used also for poultices, as indi- 
cated in bryony poultice. 

BUCKTHORN.— Is a syrup used for 
a brisk purgative for children. 

Dose of the syrup: One to six drachms. 

BURGUNDY PITCH. — This warmed 
and spread upon linen or leather, is put 
over any part of the body where it is 
desirable to excite a mild degree of inflam- 
mation. It is applied over the chest for 
catarrh, difficult brefithmg and whoopmg- 
cough, and over the loins in lumbago. 



132 



METALS ARE ABSORBED OR SECRETED BY PLANTS. 



BUTTERNUT. — The inner bark of a 
root. Both laxative and cathartic. 

CAFFEINE. — Is the active principle in 
tea, coffee and cocoa, and is mostly manu- 
factured from tea-dust. The preparations 
commonly known as bromide-caffeine and 
bromide-seltzer are principally made from 
caffeine. 

CALABAR BEAN. — These seeds are 
used in certain medicines given as a seda- 
tive to calm the nervous system. 

CALOMEL. — Is a useful drug that 
comes in a white powder form. It has 
been found useful in many diseases, for 
instance enlarged liver, glandular affec- 
tions, itch, etc. It is benehcial in dropsy, 
for it produces watery motions, and is 
given in diseases where inflammation of 
the bowels does not exist, nor great de- 
bility. , , ^ 

Never take cold on calomel, for ex- 
posure to draughts and dampness is apt 
to bring on eruption of the skin and fever. 
Should this happen, leave off taking it and 
replace by wine and purgatives. Bathe 
the body twice a day in warm water and 
powder with starch. 

CAMOMILE. — Camomile flowers are 
tonic antispasmodic and stomachic. 

Used externally as fomentations in 
colic, face ache and tumors. 

Used internally in form of an infusion 
with other stomachic remedies in dys- 
pepsia, flatulent colic, and debility follow- 
ing dysentery and gout. 

A warm camomile tea acts as an emetic. 
The powdered flowers are given in in- 
termittent fevers, combined with kino or 
opium. . 

Dose: The infusion as a tonic from 1 
to 2 ounces, three times a day. The pow- 
dered flowers from 10 grains to 1 drachm, 
twice or three times a day. 

The emetic, from 6 ounces to 1 pint a 
day. 

Camomile flowers should be gathered 
on a fine day and dried on a tray in the 
sun. All herbs for medicinal purposes 
and uses should be treated the same. 

CAMPHOR.— Either the tincture or the 
spirits are useful in all home remedies, the 
former for cases of diarrhoea, colic, etc. 
Give the patient fifteen drops on sugar 
every fifteen minutes until the pain dis- 
appears. In more serious cases, such as 
cholera, cholera morbus, etc., give the 
same every two to five minutes. 

A few drops of camphor on sugar will 
counteract a chill and act as a preventive 
against cold. 

The spirits of camphor is used as a lini- 
ment to remove pain and swelling. Rub 
one ounce of camphor in four ounces of 
olive oil. For neuralgia, equal parts of 
camphoi and chloral hydrate, rubbed well 
together. 



CANADA BALSAM.— A thick yellow 
liquid, having the same qualities as tur- 
pentine. 

CANTHARIDES OR SPANISH 

FLIES. — Are used externally for produc- 
ing blisters or redness of the skin. In- 
ternally they act on the kidneys and blad- 
der and increase the flow of urine. 

Never attempt to take cantharides in- 
ternally without the advice of a physician, 
as it is a poison, and needs to be used 
with the greatest caution. 

The tincture of cantharides promotes 
the growth of the hair, mixed with rose- 
mary, glycerine and rose water. 

CARAWAY SEEDS. — Aromatic and 
stimulating, and will cause the expulsion 
of wind on the stomach and cure flatu- 
lence. 

CARBONATE OF SODA.— This soda 
neutralizes acids in the stomach, the blood 
or the intestines. Used internally for dys- 
pepsia or acidity on the stomach. 

Dose from 10 grains to half a drachm. 
Used also in various branches of cook- 
ery. 

It is a pernicious habit to accustom one- 
self to the constant use of soda for re- 
lieving heart-burn and sour stomach, for it 
acts as an irritant to the walls of the 
stomach and bowels, and sometimes it ac- 
cumulates in the intestines, causing per- 
itonitis and inflammation. 

CASCARILLA. — A stomachic tonic 
and astringent bark, used in various medi- 
cines. 

CASTOR OIL.— A laxative, thick, color- 
less liquid, most valuable as a medicine, 
for it generally operates mildly and quick- 
ly- 

For an ordinary purgative for infants 
give from 40 drops to 2 drachms. I^or 
adults, from half an ounce to one and a 
half ounces. For enemas or injections, 
mix two ounces of castor oil with one 
drachm of starch, and add fourteen ounces 
of thin gruel. 

For habitual constipation, half an ounce 
of castor oil mixed in half a cupful of 
milk. The milk removes the unpleasant 
taste of the oil, so will black coffee, lemon- 
juice or whiskey. 

Another injection is half an ounce of 
castor oil, half an ounce of molasses and 
one pint of soapsuds. 

CATECHU. — An astringent and tonic 
extract. It is given internally in dysen- 
tery, diarrhoea, and hemorrhage from the 
bowels. 

Used externally when powdered to pro- 
mote the contraction of flabby ulcers. 

As an infusion for ulcerated mouth and 
throat and bleeding gums. 

Dose: The infusion from one to three 
ounces. The powder, from ten to thirty 
grains. The tincture from one to four 
drachms. It must never be given with 



QUININE AND COFFEE CONTAIN COPPER, 



133 



soda, or auy alkali, neither with albumen, 
metallic salts or gelatine, or its property 
will be destroyed. 

CATNIP.— A plant called also catmint 
because cats are very fond of its leaves. 
They are sharp and bitter in taste. A 
tea made by steeping them in hot water is 
given as a medicine. 

CHALK. — Chalk is absorbent and neu- 
tralizes the acids in the system. It is used 
internally in the form of a mixture for 
diarrhoea complaints and externally for 
burns, scalds, and excoriations. 

Dose of the mixture: from one to two 
ounces. 

CHARCOAL.— Wood and animal char- 
coal is efficacious as a disinfectant by ab- 
sorbing efHuvia. 

Charcoal powder is employed as a filter 
for impure water depriving it of its or- 
ganic impurities. 

Charcoal is an antiseptic arresting the 
decay and decomposition of animal sub- 
stances. Place a small saucer of it in the 
ice-box to absorb the impure air. Meat, 
etc., can be preserved for a long time in 
the summer by sprinkling it with pow- 
dered charcoal; this to be washed off with 
cold water, when the meat is used. 

Charcoal in a powdered form is em- 
ployed to arrest the progress of gangrene 
and putrid sores. 

Rooms can be disinfected by placing 
therein saucers of freshly heated wood 
charcoal. Charcoal must never be used 
in a fire except where there is a free cur- 
rent of air, for it is highly prejudicial in a 
state of ignition. 

CHIMAPHILA.— A diuretic used in 
dropsies. Take one ounce of chimaphila 
or wintergreen and boil it in a pint and a 
half of water until it is reduced to one 
pint, then strain. Dose, from one to two 
ounces four times a day. 

CHLORAL. — Antispasmodic, sedative 
and hypnotic. To produce sleep, take at 
bed time fifteen grains of chloral hydrate 
•with half an ounce of syrup of orange peel 
mixed with it. 

Five grains of chloral hydrate will cure 
a troublesome case of hiccoughs. 

CHLORATE OF POTASH.— An as- 
tringent, diuretic and tonic white crystal. 

Used for a gargle for ordinary sore 
throat. One teaspoonful of chlorate of 
potash, two tablespoonfuls of glycerine 
and a tumblerful of water; mis well and 
gargle frequently. Used also in tablet 
form. 

For a mouth wash mix together one 
drachm of chlorate of potash, one ounce of 
tincture of myrrh and six ounces of rose 
water. 

CHLORIDE OF ZINC IN SOLU- 
TION. — Is a powerful corroder for de- 
stroying the parts of poisoned wounds, the 
bite of a mad dog for instance. Being a 



strong poison it must be used with the ut- 
most care. It is useful for restoring the 
hair after the head has been attacked with 
ring worm. In itch a wash is made by 
using one part of it to thirty-two of water. 

CHLOROFORM.— Hypnotic and seda- 
tive. 

A useful liniment for neuralgia and 
rheumatism is to mix well three ounces of 
pure chloroform with, four ounces of olive 
Gil. 

A few drops on cotton applied to an 
aching tooth will relieve the pain. 

CITRIC ACID.— Is used for checking 
profuse perspiration and takes the place 
of lemon juice. Dose, from ten to thirty 
grains. It is antiscorbutic and cooling to 
the skin. 

COCAINE.— This is now called the 
third scourge of humanity, alcohol and 
morphine being first and second. The 
greatest number of victims is to be found 
among society women and women who 
have adopted literature as a profession, no 
doubt to stimulate their powers of im- 
agination. 

One drug habit rapidly engenders an- 
other and the victim of chronic cocainism 
is usually addicted to over-indulgence in 
alcohol and cigarette smoking. Stringent 
measures should be taken to stamp out 
the evil. 

COD LIVER OIL.— This beneficial drug 
once so much disliked on account of its 
exceedingly unpleasant taste, can now be 
taken by even the most delicate stomach. 
The emulsion is to be had already pre- 
pared, and is even more desirable than the 
plain oil. It is useful in cases of con- 
sumption, and debility, as it restores vi- 
tality, regulates the appetite and makes 
flesh. 

It is an excellent medicine for growing 
children. The best disguises for the oil 
are coffee, orange wine or new milk, which- 
ever the patient may fancy. 

COLCHICUM.— Colchicum wine and 
alkalies are remedies for an attack of 
gout. Fifteen drops of the wine of col- 
chicum with ten to twenty grains of car- 
bonate of potash, to be taken three times 
a day. 

COLOCTNTH.— Is a powerful purga- 
tive to be given only when ordered by a 
physician, as its action is too violent for 
some constitutions. 

COLOMBO.— Given to improve the 
tone of the stomach and appetite. It is a 
root called in Latin Calumba. 

Take equal parts of Colombo and tinc- 
ture of gentian, and give a dessertspoon- 
ful three times a day betore meals. This 
will improve the appetite. 

COPPERAS OR SULPHATE OP 
IRON. — Is a very powerful deodorizer and 
Is excellent for cleaning drains and sinks. 



134 



PINKS ENLARGE WATERED BY SOLUTION OF NITRE, 



Dilute some common sulphate of iron, say 
cue pound to four gallons of _ water and 
pour some of it down the sink several 
times a day; it will destroy all odors and 
keep it swf et and clean. 

COWHAGE.— Is used for expelling 
worms, which it does by wounding them 
with the fine prickles. 

Mix in treacle as much of the fine hairs 
as the treacle will take up, and give a tea- 
ppoonful every morning and evening, for 
ten or fifteen days, and an aperient pow- 
der every fourth morning to expel the 
killed worms. 

CREAM OP TARTAR.— Is a purga- 
tive and a refrigerant. For a refrigerant 
drink, put half an ounce of cream of tar- 
tar, the juice of one lemon and two table- 
spoonfuls of sifted sugar into a jug, and 
pour over one quart of boiling water; 
cover till cold. This is excellent for 
dropsy, especially of the stomach, when 
it can be taken also in doses of from one 
scruple to one drachm. 

Its use should be followed by tonics, es- 
pecially gentian and Angostura bark. 

CREOSOTE. — Astringent, absorbent 
and antiseptic. 

For cutaneous diseases, use an applica- 
tion made of one drachm of creosote to a 
pint of water and shake together until 
mixed. A few drops on a piece of cotton 
>vill relieve a violent toothache. 

CROTON OIL.— A strong cathartic and 
counter-irritant. 

Thirty drops of the oil mixed with two 
tablespoonfuls of olive oil is a useful ap- 
plication to the chest in the beginning of 
consumption. It will produce redness and 
eruption of the skin when rubbed on. 

DANDELION.— Dandelion used as a 
medicine acts upon the kidneys, stimulates 
the action of the liver and increases the 
flow of bile. 

For a sluggish state of the liver, take 
two ounces of the freshly-sliced root and 
boil it in a quart of water until it reduces 
to a pint. 

Dose: From an eighth of a pint to a 
quarter of a pint, or from two to four 
ounces. 

DEADLY NIGHTSHADE.— Called in 
Latin belladonna, is a heart tonic, in- 
creases perspiration and acts on the kid- 
neys. The leaves and root are used in 
medicine. 

DIGITALIS.— This medicine is a heart- 
tcnic, and is given by physicians to those 
suffering from that disease. 

It is a strong poison. 

DOVER'S POWDERS.— These pow- 
ders are very soothing and will produce 
sleep. They are given for severe cases of 
acute rheumatism in a ten-grain dose, ad- 
ministered at night, and in many cases 
where a soothing potion is required. 



EPSOM SALTS.— A purgative acting 
on the kidneys. In acute diseases this 
medicine is very useful, as it acts quickly. 
Its action is greatly increased by adding 
one grain of tartar emetic to a dose of 
salts. It is beneficial in dyspepsia when 
a little ginger and an infusion of gentian 
is added. 

Dose of salts: From one-half to two 
ounces dissolved in warm water, taken 
early in the morning. 

For clearing the blood, put two ounces 
in a pint of cider and take a wineglassful 
night and morning. 

ERGOT.— This in the form of the liquid 
extract is useful in cases of blood-spitting 
or flooding after confinement. For the 
former to be given in doses of fifteen drops 
every three hours. For the latter, a tea- 
spoonful, to be repeated every quarter of 
an hour if necessary. 

ETHER.— Is a volatile, diffusible stimu- 
lant, both narcotic, hypnotic and anti- 
spasmodic. Given to allay pain. 

NITRIC ETHER, better known as 
sweet spirits of nitre, acts on the kid- 
neys and decreases the flow of urine. 

It is used internally to relieve nausea, 
flatulence and thirst in fevers. Ten 
minims taken in a little warm water 
promotef? perspiration in cases of chills 
caused by cold, but if a larger dose is 
taken it will act on the kidneys and 
fail to produce the desired effect. 

Used externally it will relieve head- 
ache. 

SULPHURIC ETHER.— Is both in- 
vigorating and cooling when used ex- 
ternally. 

For relieving headache its evaporation 
is prevented by applying it on a linen 
and covering this with oiled silk; when 
it thus evaporates it produces a coldness. 

For the same reason it is useful applied • 
on a rag dipped in it to scalded or burned 
surfaces. 

Mix it with almond oil and apply to 
an aching ear. 

Used internally as a narcotic in low 
fevers, and in spasmodic asthma, also 
for relieving cramps. It is useful in check- 
ing seasickness when used with great 
moderation. 

PERN ROOT, MALE.— Is a power- 
ful medicine for expelling worms; it also 
kills tapeworms. Make a decoction of 
the fresh roots or the dried and pow- 
dered root, and give from a tablespoonful 
to a wineglassful according to age early 
in the morning. 

The powdered root is to be taken while 
still in bed, three drachms mixed in a 
teacupful of water followed by a strong 
purgative two hours after. 



VEGETABLE BUTTER IS IN GENERAL USE IN" AFRICA, 



135 



FLEABANE.— Used as a decoction for 
contracting ttie blood vessels and to check 
hemorrhage or excessive menstruation. 

FORMALDEHYDE— This is a most 
important preservative and disinfectant, 
which has only been introduced since 
1S96. Its most beneficial qualities is for 
disinifecting sick-rooms, and it is then 
used in a special apparatus or steaming 
spray called "The Formaldehyde Lamp." 
Its odor is similar to witch hazel, in fact 
the latter owes its efficient qualities to 
this drug. It is a water-white liquid con- 
taining 40 per cent, of the pure formal- 
dehyde. 

FOWLER'S SOLUTION OF AR- 
SENIC. — A medicine prescribed by phy- 
sicians for restoring a healthy condition 
to the system. Five drops, three times 
a day are given for spasms of the heart. 

FRIAR'S BALSAM.— A stimulating 
application for wounds and ulcers, being 
an alcoholic solution of benzoin, styrax, 
tolu balsam and aloes. 

GALBaNUM. — Is stimulating anti- 
spasmodic, increases expectoration and 
removes obstructions. 

Used externally it dispels tumors when 
employed as a plaster, and when a plaster 
is applied to the loins it is useful for 
weakness in the legs caused by rickets. 

GAMBOGE. — Is a violent purgative 
used internally in dropsy and for expelling 
tape worms. It is an irritant poison. 

GENTIAN. — Is tonic and stomachic 
when given in small doses; larger ones act 
as a purgative. It is sometimes used 
combined with sal volatile for dyspepsia 
or alone as an infusion used externally for 
foul ulcers. 

Equal parts of tincture of gentian and 
Colombo, given a dessertspoonful three 
times a day before meals will restore the 
appetite. 

GINGER.— Expels flatulence, promotes 
saliva, and acts as a stimulant. It is 
taken for dyspepsia, and flatulent colic. 
Of the powder a dose is from ten to twenty 
grains and of the tincture ten minims to 
one drachm. 

GLAUBER'S SALT.— Is an excellent 
purgative. A dose for an adult is from a 
half to two ounces dissolved in warm 
water. Glauber's salt is also used for 
cleaning purposes. 

GLYCERINE. — A sweetish liquid, 
without color or smell, produced from 
many tats and oils. It will keep meat, 
fruit and flowers from decaying, prevents 
the water in gas meters from freezing, and 
is used in medicine to dissolve drugs in 
and is also put on the skin in cases of 
scalds or burns. 

GLYCERINE.- ITS VARIOUS USES. 
There are a great variety of ways in which 



glycerine can be employed with good ad- 
vantage, and every family medicine chest 
should contain a bottle. For chaps and 
reddened and roughened skin, dilute the 
glycerine with an equal part of rose- 
water. 

A little glycerine should be put in the 
iodine that is applied to the chest in cases 
of severe cold. 

For severe burns, glycerine applied at 
once gives great relief. 

A violent attack of coughing may be in- 
stantly relieved by a tablespoonful of 
glycerine in hot milk. 

For a throat gargle, it is an excellent 
remedy for throat troubles of all kinds, 
when mixed with sulphurous acid, and 
have it freshly made at each using. Pails 
and tubs may be kept from shrinking by 
painting them with glycerine. 

GOOSE GRASS.— For skin diseases and 
gravel. Boil a handful in one quart of 
water for twenty minutes and give a tum- 
blerful three times a day. 

HEMLOCK LEAVES.— A sedative to 
allay nervous irritation. 

HONEY AS MEDICINE.— This is the 
latest novelty. It is produced by keeping 
bees under glass, so that they can only sip 
the sweets of flowers which possess medic- 
inal properties. 

HOPS. — Are stimulating, tonic, narcotic, 
and do not affect the head as most ano- 
dynes. A pillow filled with hops will in- 
duce sleep. For painful ulcers mix the 
powder with lard and use as a dressing; 
also excellent used externally as a foment- 
ation for rheumatic pains in the joints and 
severe contusions. 

HOREHOUND.— Useful for coughs 
and increasing perspiration; acts also on 
the kidneys. 

HYPOPHOSPHITES.— Is a nervine 
tonic, builds up the system, and is also an 
antiseptic. Is recommended for anaemic 
patients, ten to twenty grain doses. 

The elixir of hypophosphites may be ob- 
tained at any druggist's. 

IODIDE OF POTASSIUM.— An anti- 
rheumatic, also used in scrofulous diseases. 

For chronic rheumatic pains and stiff- 
ness, give ten grains of iodide of potash 
three times a day, and rub the joints with 
a liniment. 

IODINE.— Is found in animal, vegetable 
and mineral life, especially in sea plants 
as potassium iodide. Also found in sev- 
eral rock salts combined with lead, silver 
and mercury, and in springs where it 
mingles with calcium, magnesia, etc. The 
iodine for commercial use is found in sea- 
weeds, salts and raw nitrate of silver. 

It is used for reducing local inflamma- 
tion and persistent pains by an outward 
application over the surface where the 
trouble exists. 



136 



COCOAS AND BANANAS ARE THE FIRST TREES OF CORAL REEFS. 



IODOFORM.— Is a most powerful anti- 
septic. It is applied as an ointment or 
in its pure state of a powder. It must be 
sprinkled onto wounds, sores, etc.. Ny ap- 
plying it on cotton wool. Iodoform is 
a yellow, crystalline powder of a strong, 
disagreeable smell, and is made of iodine 
and alcohol. 

IPECACUANHA.— Is an expectorant, 
an emetic and increases the perspiration. 

Used internally to excite vomiting; 
doses of ten to twenty grains of the pow- 
der, or an ounce to an ounce and a half of 
the infusion, every half hour until vomit- 
ing takes place. Give the patient also half 
a pint of warm water after each dose. 

As it is an acrid, narcotic poison, do not 
give overdoses. 

IRON. — Given for various debilitating 
diseases, as it is an excellent tonic and 
astringent; it builds up the system and 
helps to make blood. 

JABORANT)I.— Half a drachm of the 
fluid extract taken at night produces 
perspiration, which will help to diminish 
the accumulation of fluid in dropsical 
cases. 

JALAP.— Is a powerful cathartic, pro- 
ducing watery evacuations, and thereby re- 
moves the fluid of dropsy. 

Give ten grains, combined with two 
drachms of cream of tartar, every other 
day. The tincture dose is from one to 
three drachms. 

The extract, from ten to twenty grains, 
using the watery extract in preference to 
the alcoholic. 

JUNIPER. — An infusion of the berries 
is given internally for dropsical affections, 
a dose being two to three ounces every 
four hours; it acts on the kidneys and is 
stomachic at the same time. 

IvINO. — Is a tonic and a powerful 
astringent. It is used with calomel when 
salivation is intended to prevent the action 
of the medicine being too strong on the 
bowels. 

It is used externally on flabby ulcers 
when they discharge foul and thin matter. 

LACTIC ACID.— An antidyspeptic for 
improving the condition of the dyspeptic 
organs. Lactic acid is largely contained 
in sour and buttermilk, also in sauerkraut 
and in bread raised with leaven. It is a 
well known fact that people raised in coun- 
tries where these articles are the common 
diet, suffer considerably when obliged to 
eat different food, the sudden loss of the 
lactic acid being detrimental to their 
health. 

LAUDANUM.— Which Ls also the tinc- 
ture of opium, is the most used of the 
preparations of that drug. The opium is 
eitlior sliced or powdered, macerated in 
spirit, then filtered. It retains all the odor 
of opium, and its color is a dark brown.) 



It is frequently adulterated, and varies in 
strength. Laudanum is a powerful ano- 
dyne, and must always be given with 
great caution, especially for children. 

The dose for an adult is from ten min- 
ims to one drachm. 

LIMEWATER.— Is useful for many 
purposes. It neutralizes acids in the stom- 
ach, it allays vomiting, it soothes burns, 
scalds and sun peelings when combined 
with the same quantity of sweet or linseed 
oil, and can be used for all cleansing pur- 
poses. Make it by dissolving four ounces 
of lime in a gallon of water. Allow the 
solution to stand — after the lime is dis- 
solved — in a covered vessel until clear, 
then pour off the clear liquid for use. 
Should be kept in every household, es- 
pecially where there are children. 

LIMEWATER (ITS USES).— The uses 
of limewater are innumerable, and it is 
valuable in all complaints attended with 
acidity of the stomach. If good milk disa- 
agrees with a child, from one to three 
tablespoonfuls of limewater added to a 
pint of it will aid digestion and prevent 
flatulence; it also counteracts pain from 
wind in the stomach, caused by eating acid 
fruits. Overeating of candy will some- 
times cause acidity, and this is a sovereign 
remedy. A tablespoonful for a two-year- 
old child, increasing with age to a gill for 
adults, is an ordinary dose. 

If a child should accidentally drink 
scalding water or any hot liquid, give it 
immediately a teaspoonful at a time of 
equal parts of limewater and codliver oil. 
Give it slowly, so that the healing mix- 
ture drops down the throat almost of itself. 
This not only heals the injured parts, but 
supports the strength of the child, as food 
would, until nourishment can be taken. 

LINSEED.— The seed of flax rich in oil 
and mucilage. Externally it is used in 
form of a meal for poultices. The oil com- 
bined with limewater is excellent for 
burns. Used internally as an infusion for 
dysentery to allay irritation of the bowels, 
after certain poisons, and also for treating 
bad coughs and catarrh. It should then 
have rock candy, liquorice and lemon 
added to it. Let the patient take as much 
as he pleases. 

LINSEED OIL.— Oil expressed from 
green, unripe seed, always abounds with 
watery, acidulous particles. To determine 
the quality of the oil, fill a bottle with it 
and hold it up to the light, if bad, it will 
appear opaque, turbid and thick; its taste 
is acid and bitter on the tongue, and it 
smells rancid. If good, it will appear lim- 
pid, pale and brilliant, mellow and sweet 
to the taste, and very little smell. On this 
depends the beauty of durability of the 
varnish in which it is employed. 

I.OGWOOD. — Is used internally for 
i3iarrhoea, dysentery and a bad state of the 
Intestines. 



I]Sr ARMENIA CASTOR-OIL IS USED EOR LAMPS. 



137 



The extract dose is from ten grains to 
one drachm. 

The decoction from one to three ounces, 
three or four times a day. 

Enormous quantities of logwood are used 
for dyeing purposes, for instance, silk, 
wool, cotton, leather, feathers, and in fact 
all black fabrics are dyed on a logwood 
base. 

LUNAR CAUSTIC ON NITRATE OF 

SILVER. — This burns or destroys animal 
tissue, and is excellent when applied in a 
solution for a remedy in erysipelas (one 
drachm of salt to one ounce of water, 
brushed over and an inch beyond the in- 
flamed part). 

It destroys warts, proud flesh, etc. Ap- 
ply the same solution as for the erysipelas 
to bed sores. It is a poison. 

MAGNESIA. — Is a purgative which 
neutralizes acids in the system, and is 
useful for children when teething, and for 
heartburn in adults or for habitual consti- 
pation. The citrate of magnesia sold in 
bottles is far easier to take than the mag- 
nesia in powder form, as its grittiness is 
thereby avoided. 

Calcined and carbonate of magnesia 
have the same properties. 

MALLOW.— Used the same as marsh 
mallow. Used also as an enema. For 
eczema, break one pound of mallow root 
in small pieces, simmer in one quart of 
water until the result is a gelatinous fluid, 
strain off the liquid, and when nearly cold 
mix with fifteen drops of solution of am- 
monia. This greatly alleviates, if it does 
not cure, this disfiguring disease. Apply 
with a soft rag. 

MANNA. — Is a mild laxative, excellent 
for children and delicate persons. For 
adults a dose is from one to two ounces 
mixed with rhubarb and cinnamon water, 
and for children one to two drachms. 

MARSHMALLOW.— Is a demulcent to 
be used internally as an infusion for 
dysentery, etc. Externally, the leaves are 
used as a fomentative, and the bruised and 
boiled roots for a soothing poultice. 

A decoction of marshmallow root will 
be found valuable for many skin troubles, 
and is most soothing for chilblains. 

MORPHINE. — Is the narcotic principle 
of opium ; in large doses it causes death. 
In small doses it is a powerful anodyne. 
It is also frequently administered medici- 
nally by hypodermic injections, and the 
evil practice of injecting this drug has be- 
come a not infrequent vice leading to a 
disordered mental state. 

MURIATIC ACID.— Is both tonic and 
antidyspeptic, for it improves the condition 
of the digestive organs and cures dyspepsia. 

h or great acidity of the stomach, take 
ten drops of the acid with five grains of 
pepsm, three times a day. 



^USTARD. — Is an emetic, a stimulant, 
and rubefacient, for it causes redness of 
the skin. 

A mustard fomentation is made by 
adding a quarter of a pound of mustard 
to a pint of boiling water; wring a flan- 
nel out in this ; also used externally as a 
poultice. In dropsy, mustard is sometimes 
given in the form of whey, made by boil- 
ing half an ounce of the bruised seeds 
m a pint of milk and straining off the 
curd. Take three to four ounces of this 
three times a day. 

NITRATE OF AMTL.— Used in asthma 
and spasm of the heart, but should be 
given only by a physician's advice. 

NITRE, SWEET SPIRITS OF, OR 
NITRIC ETHER.— It acts on the kid- 
neys, reduces perspiration and relieves 
spasms and nervousness. Used externally 
its evaporation relieves headache, and in- 
ternally it is given to cure nausea and 
fever thirsts. 

Dose from ten minims to one drachm. 
A very small dose in warm water pro- 
motes perspiration in chills and colds, but 
a larger dose will act on the kidneys and 
fail to produce the same effect. 

NUX VOMICA.— Is a general stimu- 
lating tonic used largely in homeopathy. 
Is good for a weak stomach. Mix half 
an ounce of the tincture of nux vomica 
with two drachms of pepsin, and half an 
ounce of diluted muriatic acid ; add enough 
water to make six ounces, and take a tea- 
spoonful three times a day after meals. 

OAK BARK. — Used for hemorrhages, 
diarrhoea, and as a tonic. Externally, in 
form of decoction, it stops bleeding from 
lacerated surfaces, also can be used for a 
gargle in sore throat and relaxed uvula. 
Used internally for dysentery or hemor- 
rhage from the bowels. Dose of the oak 
bark powder from fifteen to thirty grains. 

OIL OF CEDAR.— Is excellent to drive 
insects away. Crickets, ants, bedbugs and 
all other pests are quickly dispatched by 
its use. 

OIL OF TURPENTINE.— Used exter- 
nally in flatulent colic sprinkled over flan- 
nels wrung out of hot water. Used in- 
ternally, for colic, tapeworm, rheumatism, 
etc. Dose from five minims to two 
drachms. To be applied onto fresh cuts or 
wounds. 

OIL OF VITRIOL.— Is a substance 
more powerful than caustic, contracts the 
muscular tissue and is given to improve 
the tone of the system. 

OPIUM. — Is employed internally in 
cholera, asthma, whooping cough, flatulent 
colic and St. Vitus' dance. It allays pain 
which is not attended by inflammation, and 
is a calming sedative. It is a great remedy 
for peritonitis. Never use opium of any 



138 



HOPS ENTWINE TO THE LEFT — CONVOLVULUS TO THE RIGHT. 



kind unless under the advice of a physi- 
cian. 

ORRIS ROOT.— The word orris is a 
wrong form of iris, the Greek name of 
the plant. The root, having the odor of 
violets, is powdered and used to perfume 
tooth powder, toilet powder and hair oils. 
Distilled orris root is called essence of 
violets, but has no violets in its composi- 
tion. 

OXIDE OF ZINC— Useful in affections 
of the eyelids arising from relaxation when 
used as an ointment, or as a powder for 
cleansing unhealthy sores. 

Internally, it is given for spasmodic 
affections, such as St. Vitus' dance, etc., 
in a dose of from one to six grains twice 
a day. 

The ointment of zinc applied to eczema 
every one or two nights will give relief. 

PAREGORIC— Is a preparation of 
opium, given to allay stomachic pains, 
especially in young children. To be given 
with caution. 

PEt'SIN. — Pepsin is one of the essential 
elements of the gastric juice. It is ex- 
tracted from the walls of the stomach of 
the calf, sheep and pig. It is closely allied 
to albumen, and has been employed of late 
years to a considerable extent either as 
a powder or in solution in all medical 
practice. It is used in cases of disordered 
digestion, and in convalescence from 
typhoid and other debilitating fevers. Pep- 
sin wine is perhaps its best form, a tea- 
spoonful being the ordinary dose. 

PEROXIDE OF HYDROGEN.— Is a 
water white fluid of a peculiar taste, some- 
what like chlorate of potash. It is a pow- 
erful antiseptic and germ destroyer, being 
unsurpassed for gargling and throat spray- 
ing in cases of diphtheria and other malig- 
nant throat troubles. 

For spraying in diphtherical cases, the 
pure peroxide must be diluted with an 
equal quantity of water. This article is 
manufactured in large quantities, and is 
also used for bleaching feathers, ivory, 
bone, etc., and also for bleaching the hair. 

PHENACETINE.— Is one of the re- 
cently discovered medicines, having been 
used only since about 18S7. Its usefulness 
is great, and its action is free from the 
disagreeable effects of other antipyretics. 
It has been found useful in cases of ty- 
phus, stomach and bowel diseases, such as 
peritonitis and lung diseases. It induces 
perspiration in fever and produces a quiet 
sleep. 

For an anti-neuralgic and anti-rheumatic 
fifteen grains is the dose, to l)e repeated 
if necessary until a drachm and a half has 
been taken in 24 hours. For a violent 
headache take two grain doses in twelve 
grains of caffeine. It generally comes in a 
powder form. 



PHOSPHORIC ACID.— Is a medicino 
which counteracts blood deteriorations, 
such an scurvy, etc., and at the same time 
is a nerve tonic. 

PINE TAR is excellent burned in a sick 
room as a disinfectant. It induces sleep. 

PIPSISSEWA.— Acts on the skin, re- 
stores health, is a tonic, and produces an 
increase of flow of urine. It is generally 
used as a tea, adding one ounce of the 
bruised leaves to a pint of water. Boil for 
fifteen minutes, strain and add enough 
water to make it to a pint, and drink a 
wine glassful every three hours. 

QUASSIA. — Is a simple stomachic tonic 
that can be safely used, as it does not in- 
crease the animal heat or quicken the 
pulse. It is excellent for indigestion, and 
is useful after diarrhoea or bilious fever. 
Make it into an infused tea and take about 
two ounces three times a day. 

QUININE.— This is a medicine that 
combines many qualities, it having an in- 
fluence over diseases which have a periodic 
tendency, such as malarial fever, chills, 
etc. It reduces the temperature of the 
body during sickness, wards off heavy 
colds, and improves the general health. 

RHUBARB. — Is a purgative, both as- 
tringent and stomachic. Combined with a 
very small quantity of calomel it is an ex- 
cellent purgative for children, is also given 
for dyspepsia, diarrhoea, and a bad state 
of the bowels. 

ROCHELLE SALTS.— An aperient of 
great virtue. Dissolve half an ounce in a 
wine glass of water and take before break- 
fast. It cools the blood, and as a mild 
aperient it can be taken four times a day, 
a tablespoonful of the above. 

ROSE LEAVES.— These are used in- 
ternally to relieve hemorrhages from the 
stomach, and as a gargle for sore throats 
and for night sweats of consumption. A 
dose if the infusion is from two to four 
ounces. 

SAL AMMONIAC— Is a very hard 
substance, and can only be dissolved in 
boiling water, when on cooling, the salt 
tallizes into a solid form, and if kept stirred 
will divide into small parts. It is used as 
a freezing mixture and as a medicine for 
coughs and for acting on the kidneys. 
Wash a sluggish sore several times dur- 
ing the day with a mixture of one drachm 
of salammoniac, one tablespoonful of 
laudanum in a glassful of water. 

SALICYLIC ACID.— Is prescribed for 
rheumatism, it being obtained from oil of 
wintergreen; it is also used locally for 
eczema, and is useful for tonsilitis. 

It is antiseptic and antipyretic. It is 
prepared artificially from carbolic acid. 

SARSAPARILLA.— Is given to purify 
the blood whenever any taint exists that 
produces eruptive affections. It is health 



MANY PLANTS CLOSE ON" THE APPROACH OF EAIN, 



139 



restoring, iucreases perspiration, acts on 
the kidneys, and is an excellent tonic. 

SCAMMONY— Is a cathartic that acts 
rapidly and violently on the bowels, giving 
considerable pain, sometimes producing 
nausea and vomiting. It is used for ex- 
pelling intestinal worms, corrects the slimy 
movements of children and produces 
watery discharges in dropsy. 

The powder can be given in treacle or 
jam, from five to sixteen grains. The con- 
fection, from twenty to thirty grains. Do 
not give it when the bowels are inflamed. 

SEIDLITZ POWDERS.— These are 
put in two papers; the larger blue one con- 
tains tartarized soda (called Rochelle 
salts), two drachms, and two scruples of 
carbonate of soda. The smaller white 
paper consists of half a drachm of tar- 
taric acid. 

To use, dissolve the contents of the blue 
paper in half a tumbler of cold water, 
and the contents of the white paper in 
another half tumbler of cold water; pour 
this into the first glass and drink during 
effervescence. 

SENNA. — Is never given alone, as it 
causes painful gripings, but is combined 
with an aromatic, and the infusion is 
made with cold water, not hot. It takes 
about four hours to act, and should be 
assisted by warm drinks. Never give 
senna when the bowels are inflamed. 

An infusion of senna and spigelia, half 
an ounce each added to a pint of boiling 
water is a good remedy for worms. Give 
a tablespoonful or more, according to the 
child's age. 

SLIPPERY ELM.— This, like linseed, 
marsh-marrow and other demulcents, 
softens the parts by protecting them with 
a viscid matter. Therefore is used for al- 
laying Inflammation, and irritation. 

SQUILLS. — Is an emetic and purgative 
when given in large doses; in small doses 
it iucreases the urine and is excellent for 
persistent coughs. 

In catarrh it is used in the form of 
oxymel. In dropsy combined with opium 
and calomel. In asthma with ammonia- 
cum. 

SUGAR OF LEAD.— Is used external- 
ly as a sedative, and to contract the 
tissues in cases of hemorrhages, etc. 

SUGAR OP MILK.— When this is dis- 
solved in warm milk it makes an excel- 
lent aperient. Take early in the morning 
three to five teaspoonfuls of sugar of 
milk in a cup of warm milk. The desired 
effect will be in from two to three hours. 

SULPHUR.— Is an alterative and blood 
cleanser; it is to be taken in the spring 
of the year mixed with either molasses or 
cream of tartar to purify the blood. Sul- 
phur ointment applied to eczema will re- 



lieve it wonderfully. Also used for many 
cleansing purposes. 

TANNIC ACID.— Checks hemorrhages 
and bleeding and is an astringent. 

TARTARIC ACID.— Neutralizes the 
alkaline state of the system, and when 
largely diluted makes an excellent cooling 
drink. It is used for composing extem- 
poraneous soda and seidlitz waters. 

TOLU. — Is an excellent remedy for 
asthma and chronic catarrh. It is made 
up into a balsam, a syrup and a tincture. 

A dose of the balsam is from five to 
thirty grains combined with mucilage. 

The syrup, from a half to four drachms. 
The tincture from a half to one drachm. 
Not to be given when there are symptoms 
of inflammation. 

TRAGACANTH.-Is used to allay a 
tickling cough, given in the form of a 
mucilage. Dose, from ten grains to one 
drachm or more. 

TURPENTINE.— Is medicinally useful 
for many purposes. It can be used as a 
liniment, an enema, a worm destroyer, 
and a diuretic. 

The Venice turpentine is used external- 
ly for blistering. Internally for flatulent 
colic, rheumatism, tapeworm, etc. 

A flannel dipped in hot water and 
sprinkled with turpentine will relieve 
hoarseness, this will also relieve lumbago 
and rheumatism. Turpentine wi:l send 
down the skin of a blister and prevent 
soreness. 

VALERIAN. — Acts on the nervous cen- 
tres and is taken internally for hysteria, 
nervous prostration and all spaamodie 
trouble. 

There are various preparations. A doss 
of the infusion is from two to four ounces; 
of the powder, from ten grains to half a 
drachm three or four times a day, and 
the tincture from two to four drachms. 

VASELINE.— Is the product of pe- 
troleum obtained by filtration, having no 
chemicals whatever added to it. It is a 
yellow jelly, devoid of smell or taste and 
beautifully soft and smooth. It possesses 
healing and other medicinal properties; is 
useful in the sickroom, for the toilet, 
household, etc. It is an excellent lubri- 
cant, and is used for many stable pur- 
poses. Vaseline contains a certain ingre- 
dient which is very good and beneficial for 
encouraging the growth of the hair. 

WHITE VITRIOL, OR SULPHATE 
OP ZINC. — An emetic, a caustic and a 
tonic; it is useful for an eyewash. It 
cleanses scrofulous ulcers by using three 
grains of the salt to one ounce of water. 
It is frequently used internally, but only 
when ordered by a doctor, as it is a 
poison. 



140 



THE OAK SUPPORTS HUNDREDS OF SPECIES OF INSECTS. 



WINTERGREEN.— So called because 
its leaves are green all the winter. These 
are dark and shiny above and light be- 
neath./ Its flowers are white and it bears 
small scarlet berries. Birds live on these 
during the winter. 

Oil of wintergreen is distilled from the 
leaves and is used for flavoring candies 
and hiding the unpleasant taste from med- 
icine. 

It is largely used for rheumatism. 

WITCH HAZEL.— A pure distilla- 
tion of the well-known shrub hamamelis. 
It cures cuts, contusions or sprains and 
bruises. It is a quick relief for burns, 
scalds and sunburn. It stops nose-bleed- 
ing, bleeding gums, hemorrhages or bleed- 
ing piles. It relieves toothache, faceache 
or neuralgia. It soothes rheumatic pains, 
lameness or stiffness. It is a remedy for 
sore throat, chilblains, insect bites, boils, 
sores, lacerations, bunions and all kinds of 
complaints of an irritating nature. 

WORMWOOD, OR ABSINTHE.— 
This is sometimes used as an infusion for 
dyspepsia, the dose being one to two 
ounces three times a day. It also expels 
substances from the stomach such as 
worms, etc. The constant use of absinthe 
as a drink is a pernicious habit, as it pro- 
duces nervous trouble which may end 
fatally. 

TO FILTER MEDICINAL WINES 
AND LIQUORS. — This is done through a 
coarse, grev, unsized paper, called filtering 
paper. Fold a sheet of it and place it in 
a large glass funnel and stand this in a 
bottle. Pour the liquid through the folded 
paper, repeating the process once more. 
Should there be no funnel, spread two 
sheets of the paper on a fine sieve and 
stand this over a china bowl. This can 
also be applied to clear infusions, eye 
washes and other fluids. 

DECOCTION. — Is to boil for a certain 
time so to extract the mucilaginous or 
gummy parts of substances. It is merely 
boiling the ingredients in a saucepan with 
the lid slightly raised. Never use an iron 
saucepan for such astringents as oak-bark, 
galls, etc. Enamelled saucepans or a com- 
mon pipkin are the best. 

Only boil a decoction for ten minutes. 

DIGESTTON. — Resembles maceration, 
except t'le process is assisted by a gentle 
heat. Put the substance into lukewarm 
water and keep it in a warm temperature, 
but without boiling, either placing it on 
the side of the fire or in a double steamer 
sauceran. 

INFUSION. — Is to pour boiling water 
over ceitiin medicated substances, then to 
cover and allow to infuse for at least five 
minutes for a light infusion, and ten min- 
utes for a stronger one. 

Barks, roots, fresh leaves, dry leaves, 



and flowers of various plants are used for 
infusions. 

When the infusion has stood the time 
directed, hold a piece of very coarse linen 
over the spout, aud pour the liquid through 
into another jug. 

MACERATION. — Is to put a substance 
into spirits or cold water, and leave it 
soak for a certain time. This is fre- 
quently required in making up medicines. 



DIETING means a total or partial de- 
privation of food, or else a special treat- 
ment to follow according to the case. 

There are various kinds of dieting. 

ABSOLUTE DIETING.— Is a com- 
plete abstinence of food. This is only for 
acute diseases, specially when accompanied 
by fever. 

It can never last very long; children 
and very young people cannot endure it 
as well as adults and old persons. It is 
only prescribed in very serious cases. 

ANIMAL DIETING OR FIBRINE- 
OUS, is a diet based either on the com- 
plete use or entire exclusion of meat. 

CURATIVE DIETING.— Special diets 
employed against chronic diseases, where 
the food becomes a medicine. 

DRY DIETING.— The exclusion more 
or less of any liquids during the meal. 
This is generally followed by those diet- 
ing for obesity. 

MILK DIETING.— Where milk alone 
is prescribed, either drank pure or mixed 
with farinaceous food, or else Kumyss is 
given. 

PARTIAL DIETING.— This follows 
the absolute dieting, while the regular hab- 
its are being restored. It consists of light 
broths, soups, eggs, digestible vegetables, 
chicken, fish, light meals, preserves, 
creams, dry cakes, stale and fresh bread 
or toast. 

PRESERVATIVE DIETING.— Special 
rules to be followed before any surgical 
operation or before confinement. 

SEVERE DIETING.— This is a diet 
not quite as rigorous as absolute dieting, 
and still more restricted than partial diet- 
ing. It is generally composed of pure 
milk and light broths. 

VEGETABLE DIETING, or the Vege- 
tarian system is a complete abstinence of 
any kind of meat. 

CARE IN DIET.— Eat only those 
things that are of an admitted good 
quality. 

Eat nothing that can disagree with the 
digestive organs. 

Eat only at regularly appointed hours. 

Eat nothing just before retiring to rest. 

Eat nothing between meals. 

Eat slowly, so that every particle of 
food can be digpsted. 

Eat no heavy meal when the mind is 
worried or taxed. 

Do uo mental or manual labor on an 
empty stomach. 



GRAPE VINES USED TO BE PRODUCED IN ENGLAND. 



141 



Baths, Enemas, Gargles, Liniments, Lotions, Ointments, 

Poultices, Etc. 



ALKALINE BATHS.— For those suf- 
fering from chronic rheumatism, are made 
of two ounces of carbonate of soda mixed 
in three gallons of tepid water. Very 
softening for the skin. 

BRAN BATHS. — Recommended for 
skin diseases, hives, eruptions of all kinds. 
Have a coarse cambric bag, fill it with 
bran, and soak it in the bath tub until 
the floury part is in the water, then add 
a little carbonate of soda. 

IRON OR STEEL BATHS.— Delicate 

women or children may sometimes derive 
great benefit from iron or steel baths. The 
sulphate of iron used at any druggist's to 
be used in proportion of a quarter of an 
ounce to two gallons of cold or tepid 
water. Used as a morning sponge bath. 
After the bath, rub the body with a rough 
towel, dress quickly, then take some exer- 
cise, or keep moving about. 

MUSTARD FOOT BATH.— This is a 
well known remedy for incipient colds and 
headaches. It is very simple to prepare, 
consisting of a large spoonful or two of 
mustard to about a gallon of very hot 
water. The feet should not be kept in the 
water for more than ten minutes, and the 
patient should get into bed immediately 
after they are quite dry. 

SALT BATHS.— For a homemade salt 
bath, put two handfuls of kitchen salt 
in a small bag and shake it about in the 
bath tub filled with tepid water. It will 
at once dissolve, and a salt water bath is 
thus obtained, equalling any warm seaside 
bath. 

STARCH BATHS.— For those suffering 
from irritating rashes during the hot 
weather. In two pailfuls of tepid water 
put two ounces of powdered starch, previ- 
ously dissolved in boiling water. After 
the bath, dry the skin with a soft towel, 
and while the irritation continues wear 
light clothing and avoid all excesses of 
eating and drinking. 

VAPOR BATHS.— May be made by 
putting boiling water in a pan, place a 
cane bottom chair in this, and have the 
patient sit on it, enveloped in a blanket 
from head to foot, which must also cover 
the bath. 

Another way is to attach one end of a 
rubber tubing to the spout of a kettle on 
the fire and introduce the other end below 
the chair on which the patient is sitting, 
enveloped entirely in a blanket. Sulphur, 



spirit, herbal, medicinal or other yapor 
baths may be given the same way, but 
never without medical advice. 

GARGLES. — Are remedies used to 
cure chronic sore throafcs, or a relaxed 
state of the swallow or uvula. 

ACIDULATED.— For chronic or ma- 
lignant sore throat. Mix one part of white 
vinegar with three parts of honey of roses 
and twenty-four parts of barley water. 

ALUM. — Two teaspoonfuls of alum in a 
glassful of water is good for removing 
an offensive breath. For an astringent 
dissolve one drachm of alum in fifteen 
ounces of water, then add half an ounce 
of treacle and one drachm of diluted sul- 
phuric acid. 

CHLORATE OF POTASH.— Mix to- 
gether one teaspoonful of chlorate of pot- 
ash, two tablespoonfuls of glycerine and a 
tumblerful of water. To be used for an 
ordinary sore throat. 

FOR SLIGHT INFLAMMATION OF 
THE THROAT.— Add one drachm of sul- 
phuric ether to half an ounce of syrup 
of marshmallow and six ounces of barley 
water. This may be used frequently. 

SAGE. — Use when cold a mixture of 
two ounces of sage, one of linseed and one 
pint of boiling water. 

FOR SALIVATION.— Mix from one to 
four drachms of bruised gall nuts with a 
pint of boiling water, and infuse for two 
hours, then strain and sweeten. 

FOR ENLARGED TONSILS.— Mix 
two ounces of guaiacum, two drachms 
chlorate of potash, two ounces of glycerine 
and one pint of water. 



INJECTIONS OR ENEMAS.— These 
are peculiar liquid medicines administered 
by injecting them into the rectum or outlet 
of the body, with the intention of empty- 
ing the bowels, kill worms, allay spasms 
in the bowels, etc., and also are given to 
nourish the patient when in an exhausted 
condition where food cannot be given by 
the mouth; these are called nutrient in- 
jections. 

ASSAFOETIDA.— Mix one drachm of 
the tincture of assafoetida in a pint «t 
barley water. Used for expelling worms 
or in convulsions from teething. 

FOR BLEEDING OF THE BOWELS. 
— To check this give an enema of thirty) 



142 



IT WAS THE MISTLETOE THE DRUIDS REVERENCED. 



drops of spirits of turpentine and one 
ounce of mucilage of starch; mix and in- 
ject. Cold iced water prevents bleeding, 
especially when caused by piles. 

LAXATIVE. — Two ounces of Epsom 
salts dissolved in three quarters of a pint 
of gruel or thin broth with an ounce of 
olive oil. 

NUTRITIVE. — Thicken twelve ounces 
of strong beef tea with hartshorn shavings 
or arrowroot. Given to nourish a patient. 

OPIUM. — Rub three grains of opium 
with two ounces of starch, then add two 
ounces of warm water. Use as an anodyne 
in colic, spasms, etc. 

PURGATIVE. — Mix two ouncesi of cas- 
tor oil with one drachm of starch ; rub to- 
gether and add fourteen ounces of thin 
gruel. 

TO CHECK PURGING.— Twenty-four 
grains of subnitrate of bismuth, twenty 
drops of laudanum and one ounce muci- 
lage of starch. Mix and inject. 

TURPENTINE. — Half an ounce of oil 
of turpentine, the yolk of one egg and half 
a pint of gruel. Mix the turpentine and 
egg and then add the gruel. Used for ex- 
pelling and destroying worms. 

LINIMENTS AND EMBROCATIONS. 

— Used externally to relieve deep-seated 
inflammation, pain and swelling, as they 
can be applied when other means cannot 
be employed. 

CAMPHORATED. — Rub half an ounce 
of camphor in two ounces of olive oil ; to 
be used as a soothing application for stub- 
born breasts, rheumatic pains and glandu- 
lar swellings. 

Or dissolve equal parts of camphor and 
chloral hydrate; to be used for neuralgic 
pains, etc. 

CHLOROFORM.— Three ounces pure 
chloroform mixed in four ounces of olive 
oil. To be used for neuralgia and rheu- 
matism. 

LIME AND OIL.— Shake well together 
equal parts of common linseed oil and lime 
water. Use for burns, sun peelings, etc. 

MUSTARD AND BELLADONNA.— 
Mix together one drachm of oil of mustard, 
one drachm extract of belladonna, five 
drachms castor oil, two drachms camphor 
and four ounces alcohol. Excellent for 
pain in joints, rheumatism, etc. 

TURPENTINE. — Melt two ounces and 
a half of resin cerate by standing it in a 
vessel of hot water, then mix in an ounce 
and a half of oil of turpentine. For 
stimulant for ulcers, bums, scalds, etc. 

LOTIONS OR WASHES.— Are used 
for soothing or cooling inflamed parts 
by means of a piece of linen rag wetted 
with them and applied on, or by wetting 



the bandage itself. They are for outward 
application only. 

ARNICA LOTION.— Mix half an ounce 
of tincture of arnica in a tumblerful of 
water. 

For sprains, bruises, etc. 

CREOSOTE.— Add a drachm of cre- 
osote to a pint of water, shake and use 
as an application in cutaneous diseases. 

LAUDANUM.— Take one tablespoonful 
of laudanum, one drachm of sal ammo- 
niac, and a tumblerful of water. Wash 
sluggish sores three or four times a day 
with this. 

OPIUM. — Mix two drachms of bruised 
opium with half a pint of boiling water. 
Use when cold, for painful ulcers, bruises, 
etc. 

SALT. — Mix one drachm of salt with 
eight ounces of water. Use for foul ul- 
cers and flabby wounds. 

VINEGAR. — Wash old sores constantly 
with equal parts of vinegar and water. 



OINTMENTS, CERATES, SALVES. 

— These remedies are used as local appli- 
cations to parts, generally ulcers. They are 
to be spread either on the sore and cov- 
ered with a piece of linen, or on liuen and 
applied to the sore. 

CARROT OINTMENT.— This is par- 
ticularly efficacious in cases of burns, 
scalds and boils, also for old and obstinate 
sores; it is known for its healing quali- 
ties. Grate down a large carrot to a pulp, 
then add two tablespoonfuls of hog's lard. 
Stew it till the strength is all extracted 
from the carrot, then press it while 
hot through a piece of thin muslin. Put 
into it a piece of white beeswax as Urge 
as a small walnut, then keep stirring it 
I until all the wax is dissolved in the oint- 
ment. 

CHALK OINTMENT.— Mix as much 
prepared chalk as you can in some lard, 
so to form a thick ointment. Use as an 
application for burns and scalds. 

OINTMENT FOR BURNS.— Shred 
finely a quarter of an ounce of beeswax 
into an ointment pot, pour over two table- 
spoonfuls of olive oil; put the pot in a 
warm place until the beeswax is quite 
melted, and when cool it is ready for use. 
It will keep for months. 

FOR ITCH.— Mix four drachms of 
sublimed sulphur, half a drachm of di- 
luted sulphuric acid and two ounces of 
lard together. Rub the ointment into the 
body. 

OINTMENT FOR SORE NIPPLES. 
— Mix together two drachms tincture of 
tolu, half an ounce spermaceti ointment, 
and two drachms of powdered pum. 

Another remedy for sore nipples is an 
application of white of egg mixed with 



BLACK LEAD PENCILS ARE MADE OF JTJNIPER-TEEE. 



143 



brandy; a nipple shield should be used at 
the same time. 

OINTMENT FOR HEMORRHOIDS 
OR PILES. — Four ouuces best lard, two 
drachms of camphor, one ounce powdered 
galls, half au ounce of laudanum. Apply 
at bed time every night. 

FOR PILES. — Mix together one ounce 
of fresh lard, one drachm tannic acid, and 
one drachm powdered opium. 

FOR OFFENSIVE SORES AND 
FEET.— One drachm each of almond oil 
and white wax, two drachms boracic acid 
and enough vaseline to make one ounce; 
mis into an ointment. 

FOR SCROFULOUS ULCERA- 
TIONS. — Mix one drachm ioduret of zinc 
and one ounce of lard. Use twice a day 
to the ulcerations. 



POULTICES. 



TO APPLY POULTICES.— When ap- 
plying poultices never let the substance of 
the poultice come in contact with the skin, 
as is sometimes done, but use an old, soft 
linen handkerchief. 

BRAN OR HOP POULTICE.— Make 
a bag and fill it about a quarter full of 
either bran or hop flowers, wring it out in 
very hot water, and keep it warm until 
applied to the affected part. Hops are 
very soothing and promote sleep. 

BREAD AND MILK POULTICES.— 
These must not be applied where the skin 
is broken, for the milk soon sours and is a 
source of irritation. 

BRYONY POULTICE.— Excellent for 
bruises, black eyes and all discolorations 
of the skin. Remove the bark from some 
black bryony and scrape the root finely; 
mix it either with flour or bread crumbs 
and apply over the affected part. " The 
discoloration will disappear within a few 
hours. 

POULTICE FOR A FESTER.— Boil 
some bread crumbs in lees of strong beer, 
apply the poultice in the usual way. This 
has saved many a limb from amputation. 

LINSEED OR FLAXSEED POUL- 
TICE. — Slowly stir enough linseed meal in 
boiling water to bring it to the consistence 
of porridge, then simmer for three or four 
minutes. Apply between two layers of 
cheesecloth or thin muslin, and cover well 
with some warm material. Should be 
changed often and never allowed to be- 
come cold. 

MUSTARD POULTICE. — This fre- 
quently relieves vomiting when applied to 
the pit of the stomach. 

Mix ground mustard with cold water 
and spread it about an eighth of an inch 
thick between two folds of thin muslin, 
and apply it to the patient. Raise the 



edge every few minutes to see whether it 
13 raising a blister, and remove as soon as 
the skin turns red, and if sore apply a lit- 
tle sweet oil on a piece of cotton wool. 

MUSTARD PLASTER.— To apply one 
of these without blistering the skin, mix 
the mustard with the white of an egg in- 
stead of water. The plaster will draw 
thoroughly without injuring the most deli- 
cate skin. If it burns too much an extra 
piece of muslin can be placed between it 
and the body and removed when the pa- 
tient becomes accustomed to the heat. 
The mustard can also be mixed with equal 
quantities of flour and ground ginger. 

POTATO POULTICE.— This is invalu- 
able when children are suffering from 
faceache or earache. A large potato is 
baked until the inside is mealy and soft. 
Make a small bag of muslin or other thin 
material. Turn out the potato quickly onto 
a hot plate, mash it with a fork, spoon it 
into the muslin bag and apply to the ach- 
ing part. This poultice retains its heat 
for a long time, and though very moist 
and steaming is not at all sticky. A piece 
of flannel should be tied over it, and the 
patient kept warm in bed or near a fire. 
When the poultice is removed, a silk hand- 
kerchief should be tied over the place or 
fresh cold may be taken. 

TO POULTICE A WOUND. -Use 
either bread, linseed or charcoal powder, 
which is the most cleansing. 

Mix whichever is ordered with boiling 
water, spread it evenly on a rag and apply 
it to the place. Cover the poultice with 
oiled silk and a layer of cotton wool and 
bandage firmly. If there is not sufficient 
charcoal to make a whole poultice, sprin- 
kle some of the powder over linseed meal 
before it is placed on the wound. 

MEDICAL DECOCTIONS, TEAS, 
, DRINKS, ETC. 

These usually serve as the habitual 
drink of a sick person and are prepared 
by infusion, macerating, decoction and di- 
gestion. 

LOGWOOD DECOCTION. — Boil an 
ounce and a half of bruised logwood in 
two pints of water until reduced to one 
pint; then add a drachm of bruised cassia;; 
strain. Use as an astringent, from one to 
two ounces for a dose. 

SARSAPARILLA DECOCTION. — 
Slice down four ounces of the root and put 
them into four pints of water, simmer for 
four hours. Take out the sarsaparilla 
and mash it; put it back into the liquor,, 
boil it down to two pints, then strain andS 
cool. A dose is a wineglassful three times. 
a day. 

TAMARIND DRINK.— Boil two 
ounces of the pulp of tamarinds in two( 



144 



RED SNOW IS COLORED BY A FUNGUS. 



piuts of either milk or water; allow it to 
get cold, theu strain. Use as a cooling 
drink. 

DANDELION TEA.— Boil for ten min- 
utes in a covered vessel one ounce of sliced 
and bruised dandelion root in a pint of 
water. Strain and add suflScient water 
to make a pint. Drink a wineglassful 
four times a day. This acts on the liver 
and cures biliousness. 

GOOSE-GRASS TEA.— Boil for 
twenty minutes a handful of goose-grass 
in a quart of water, and drink a gobletful 
three times a day for gravel and skin 
diseases. 

LINSEED TEA.— Used for colds and 
coughs. Put one tablespoonful of linseed 
into a clean, fireproof, china saucepan 
with one quart of water and a little lemon 
or orange rind to flavor it. Boil gently 
for ten minutes, then strain through muslin 
into a jug; add honey or sugar (the former 
is best) and the juice of one lemon, then 
use. 

No. 2. — ^This is a medical recipe: One 
ounce of whole linseed, two drachms of 
liquorice, one quart of boiling water. 
Mix, and put in a covered jar on the stove 
to infuse for four hours. Sweeten and 
strain through a sieve. 

SENNA TEA.— Half an ounce each of 
leaves of senna and root of spigelia to a 
pint and a quarter of boiling water. In- 
fuse for two hours with the cover on. 
Give a wineglassful night and morning 
to children suffering from worms. 

WHITE OAK TEA. — Boil for half an 
hour one ounce of bruised white oak in a 
pint of water. Strain, and add suflBcient 
water through the strainer to make a full 
pint. A wineglassful every three or four 
hours for diarrhoea. 

KUMYSS. — Make a syrup by boiling 
granulated sugar in water. Fill quart 
bottles three-quarters full of fresh milk, 
and to each add a tablespoonful of the 
above syrup. Shake the bottles thor- 
oughly, fill them almost full of milk, and 
shake again. Use strong, very clean bot- 
tles. Cork with a machine for driviug in 
corks, and place the bottles for six hours 
in a room or closet with a temperature of 
80 degrees. Then set them on ice and 
keep them there for three days, otherwise 
the fermentation continues and the 
Kumyss becomes sour. 



DOMESTIC PRESCRIPTIONS.— The 

information given in this part is to supply 
families with remedies which are so often 
wanted in time of need, when a medic.il 
man's services cannot easily be obtained. 

The doses are all arranged for adults, 
un'pss otherwise specified. 

The prescriptions are all selected from 
the best authorities, or el«e contributed by 
physicians of high standing. 



MEDICINES, AND HOW TO GIVE 
THEM. — Remember medicines for males 
are .stronger than those for females; for 
the latter reduce the doses about one- 
third. 

Persons in good health bear stronger 
doses than the feeble who have been a 
long while ill. 

Purgatives act better on those not ac- 
customed to them than to those who are. 
These should never be given when the 
bowels are in an irritable state. 

Those of a sanguine temperament re- 
quire smaller doses of purgatives and stim- 
ulants than those of a phlegmatic temper- 
ament. 

Fluids act quicker than solids, and 
powders sooner than pills. 

Certain medicines act more powerfully 
in summer than in winter. 

Give medicine so that the effect of the 
first dose does not cease before giving the 
second; regulate the intervals accordingly. 
In the spring of the year, a judicious use 
of aperient medicines is to be commended. 

EMERGENCY CASES REQUIRING 
IMMEDIATE ATTENTION. — Send 
for a physician as soon as an accideut or 
illness of any serious kind occurs, but 
while he is coming much good may be done 
by following these simple directions. 

APOPLEXY. — If a person is seized 
with an attack of apoplexy, raise the head 
and body, loosen all tight clothing around 
the neck, and let the cool air enter the 
room. Apply cold to the head, water or 
ice, mustard pla.sters to the calves of the 
legs, and hot water bottles to the feet. 

CUT ARTERIES.— Red blood spurts 
out of a cut artery, when a vein only is 
wovmded. The steady flow of blood is of 
a dark purple color. When the blood is 
scarlet, the blood comes from the heart, 
when purple it is on its way to the heart. 
For a cut artery compress above the 
wound, for a vein press both below and 
above. Applications of ice or cold water 
are good. Avoid stimulants except in 
severe cases. Raise the wounded limb and 
remove tight clothing. 

BURNS. — See various remedies for 
burns in other part of this book. 

CHOKING. — For a fish bone, insert 
the forefinger, press upon the root of thp 
tongue, to induce vomiting, and give a 
large piece of bread or potato, or else a 
mustard emetic, 

DROWNING, — ^Turn the person ovr- 
on his face, pass the finger into the moutli 
to the root of the tongue, and remove niiy 
cbstruction. Handle the body gently: 
never hold it by the feet; strin. rub and 
wrap the patient in hot blankets, then 
place it in a wnrm bed in a warm room. 
Anplv hot bottles to the armpits, between 
tlie thie-hs and to the so1p« of the feet. 
^pyPT rnb with stilt or spirits, nor roll 



THE TIIUFFLE GROWS UNDERGROUND. 



145 



it on casks. Give brandy and water, a 
teaspoonful every five minutes after he is 
conscious, and keep liim perfectly quirt. 

FIRE. — If the body is in flames, lay 
the person on the floor, throw over a rug, 
table cover, bedspread or any large cloth, 
and roll him about. 

HANGING. — Cut down the person, 
open the jugular vein or bleed from the 
arm, employ electricity if possible, or 
leeches to the temple, and act the same as 
for a drowned person. 

LIGHTNING.— When a person is 
struck insensible open the clothing around 
the neck and chest, and dash over with 
cold water. Treat as apoplexy. 

POISONING.— Give the prescribed 
emetics and remedies found under the 
head of poisons and their remedies. 

SPLINTERS. — Needles or thorns. Cut 
them with a sharp knife and lift them out, 
otherwise apply a bread and milk poul- 
tice. 

SUNSTROKE.— Place the patient in 
a current of cold air, out of the sun, re- 
move the clothing, and dash cold water — 
the colder the better, over the head and 
chest. Give twenty or thirty drops of 
aromatic spirits of ammonia, or five 
grains of carbonate of ammonia in a 
spoonful of water every three hours. 

VARICOSE VEINS.— When these sud- 
denly burst, place a pad of some mate- 
rial over the bleeding point, and bandage 
the leg from the toe to the knee. Keep 
quiet with the foot well raised for a few 
days. 

EMERGENCY MEDICINE CHEST. 
— Special medicines should be kept in 
CA'ery household in case of sudden illness, 
accidents, etc. The following list will be 
found sufficient for ordinary purposes. 

CAMPHORATED ALCOHOL.— For 
frictions; it is both stimulating and anti- 
rheumatic. 

ALUM. — For quinsy sore throat. Use 
it by insufflating it in the throat through 
a quill, or use as a gargle. 

Given in tiny crystals it will cure a 
sudden attack of croup; it should be 
pounded. 

AMMONIAC. — For the bites of mad 
dogs, snakes and stings of insects. 

TINCTURE OF ARNICA. — For 
bruises or blows. Internally, a coffee- 
spoonful in half a glass of sweetened 
water. 

Externally, compresses either pure or 
mixed with water. Never put it pure on 
a broken skin. 

CAMPHORATED OIL.— For frictions 
and pains. 

CASTOR-OIL.— A purgative. A dose 
is from one to two ounces for an adult, 



and for infants from forty drops to two 
drachms. 

CERECLOTH.— For dressing wounds. 

EMETICS. — For indigestion or poison- 
ing. (See emetics.) 

GLYCERINE.— A dressing for wounds, 
scratches, etc. For a laxative use two 
large spoonfuls in a pint of water. 

LAUDANUM. — To be used with great 
caution. Eight to fiiteen drops in a glass 
of sweetened water. Used to sprinkle over 
a linseed poultice for external application. 
Never give it to children. 

LINSEED OIL. — For burns aud 
scalds. 

MAGNESIA, CALCINED.— A laxative 
and a purgative. A counter-poison for 
poisoning by acids and arsenic. Keep the 
bottle well stoppered. 

MUSTARD PLASTERS.— For exter- 
nal application, also belladonna and other 
kinds. 

OIL OF SWEET ALMONDS.— Use- 
ful for burns. 

PAREGORIC— For pains in the stom- 
ach, especially young children. 

SAL-VOLATILE OR SULPHURIC 
ETHER. — For inhaling in fainting or 
hysterical spells. Apply compresses on the 
forehead for neuralgia. Internally, take 
a few drops in a little sweetened water, or 
on a lump of sugar, 

SULPHATE OF SODA OR OF MAG- 
NESIA. — Counter-poison for lead poison- 
ing. A purgative. 

VINEGAR, AROMATIC— For inhal- 
ing in cases of fainting or asphyxia. 

ALL KINDS OF BANDAGES of 
linen, also lint, wadding, compresses, a 
splinter-tweezer, and a graduated medi- 
cine glass. 

ANTIDOTES FOR POISONS.— In all 
cases of poisoning or even when sus- 
pected only, send at once for the doctor. 
As time is most important, it is well to 
know what to do until he arrives. Keep 
bottles and packages containing poison 
plainly labelled with their uses and names. 
Keep them away from other bottles aud 
beyond the reach of children. Only keep 
them when in actual use. Save all fluids 
vomited, articles of food, glasses, cups, 
etc., used previously by the patient and 
keep them under lock and key. 

CLASSES OF POISONS.— Poisons 
have been divided into four classes: 1st. 
Irritating poisons, inflaming and corrod- 
ing the parts they come in contact with 
2nd. Narcotic or stupifying symptoms, 
paralyzing the functions of the nervous 
system. 3d. Acrid narcotic, producing 
narcotism aand irritability of the parts 
they touch. 4th. Septic or putrifying 
poisons, which destroy the blood. 



146 



FUNGI GROW ON ALL ANIMAL MATTERS. 



EMETICS, WHEN TO GIVE.— Give 

emetics after poisons that cause sleepiness 
and raving. After poisons that cause 
vomiting and pain in the stomach or 
bowels with purging, give chalk, milk, 
eggs, butter and warm water or oil. 

When there is no inflammation about 
the throat, tickle it with a feather to ex- 
cite vomiting. 

In poisoning with powerful acids, emet- 
ics are rarely needed, and only increase 
the danger and trouble when used un- 
necessarily. 

EMETICS FOR POISONS.— The two 
best emetics are mustard and common 
salt. 

MUSTARD EMETIC— Mix a table- 
spoonful of common English mustard into 
a paste with a little water, then stir it m 
a glass of lukewarm water. Give a quar- 
ter of this at the time until the patient 
vomits, and continue to give draughts of 
lukewarm water every two or three min- 
utes. A tablespoonful will be sufficient 
for a child. 

SALT EMETIC— TTse exactly the same 
way, adding the salt to the water without 
previous mixing. 

SULPHATE OF ZINC, er white vit- 
riol, may be used instead of the mustard, 
or else powdered alum. 

POWDERED IPECACUANHA may 
be given to children, mixing a teaspoonful 
in molasses. Never give tartar emetic, as 
its effects are bad, and it is excessively 
depressing. 

POISONS, THEIR SYMPTOMS AND 
ANTIDOTES. 

ACIDS.— SULPHURIC ACID (OIL 
OF VITRIOL); CARBOLIC ACID; NI- 
TRIC ACID (AQUA FORTIS); OXAL- 
IC ACID; SPIRITS OF SALT; ACET- 
IC ACID; MURATIC ACID. 

Symptoms. — An acid burning taste, 
acute pain in the throat; burning pam m 
stomach and intestines; vomiting bloody 
fluid; great thirst; pinched face, convul- 
sions ending in death. , 

Antidotes. — Give calcined magnesia dis- 
solved in water, or else soap water or 
common chalk mixed with water. If no 
chalk or alkaline is on hand, break down 
the plaster on the wall and ceiling, mix 
with water, and give the sufferer. 

Excite vomiting, and repeat till the 
acids are neutralized. Afterwards give 
mucilaginous drinks, such as flaxseed tea, 
or thick gum water. 

ACONITE (MONKSHOOD, WOLFS- 
BANE, FOXGLOVES. — Sometimes used 
in liniments, and a powerful poison. 

Symptoms. — Great weakness, tingling of 
the mouth and throat, weak pulse, numb- 
ness of limbs, cold, clammy skin. 

Antidotes. — Produce vomiting with 



warm water, salt or mustard; tickle back 
of throat with a feather; when vomiting 
begins give draughts of warm water or 
white of egg and water; hot bottles to 
feet, or mustard poultices. Keep patient 
on back. Give tea, coffee and fifteen 
drops of laudanum every two hours. 

ALCOHOL. — Sometimes children take 
large draughts of spirits until insensible. 

Symptoms. — Large quantities produce 
confusion of intellect, followed by a deep, 
heavy sleep. 

Antidotes. — Give at once an emetic of 
salt and warm water, dash cold water on 
the head and body. Apply hot bottles or 
plates to feet and legs, and give strong 
coffee. 

ALKALIES.— LYE, CAUSTIC POT- 
ASH, QUICKLIME, SODA, AM- 
MONIA. 

Symptoms — Hot, disagreeable, acrid 
taste; burning in the throat; nausea and 
vomiting bloody matter; profuse purging; 
pains in the stomach; colic; convulsions 
and death. 

Antidotes — Give common vinegar freely, 
or lemon juice, and then olive oil, butter, 
linseed tea, milk, castor oil, a tablespoon- 
ful every half hour or two, and excite 
vomiting. When ammonia has been in- 
haled, inhale vapor of vinegar. 

ARSENIC — ARSENICS OF ALL 
KINDS AND ARSENICAL PASTE. 
PARIS GREEN AND ROUGH ON 
RATS. 

Symptoms. — Little or metallic taste 
within an hour, heat and pain in the stom- 
ach, followed by vomiting and violent 
thirst and burning, pulse quick and irreg- 
ular, voice hoarse, breathing hard, skin 
cold and clammy, great flow of saliva. 

Antidotes. — Scrape the iron rust from 
anything and mix it with plenty of water; 
give it in large draughts; also an emetic of 
mustard or ipecacuanha; use the stomach 
pump and never give large quantities of 
fluid till those given have been vomited; 
give warm water, new milk, limewater, 
linseed tea or gruel. 

BELLADONNA, COLCHICUM, DIG- 
ITALIS, ATROPIA, HENBANE, 
THORN-APPLE. 

Symptoms.— Dry and red throat and 
tongue, dilated pupils, impaired vision, 
thirst, delirium, convulsions, deep sleep. 

Antidotes.— Warm water emetic; en- 
courage vomiting by salt or mustard; give 
castor oil. brandy and water and fifteen 
drops of laudanum every two hours; three 
drops for a child. 

CAMPHOR.— When taken in large 
doses it causes alarming symptoms. Give 
a mustard emetic and afterwards hot 
coffee. 

CHLOROFORM, CHLORAL OB 
ETHER. — Often given in sleeping po- 



SALT AND GLASS-WORTS GROW NEAR SALT-PANS. 



147 



tions, and an OTerdose is a powerful 
poison. 

Symptoms. — Profound insensibility, cold, 
clammv skin and relaxed muscles. 

Antidotes. — Empty the stomach with a 
mustard emetic, apply warmth to the 
body, dash cold water on face and head; 
use artificial respiration and injections of 
hot coffee and brandy; give fresh, pure air. 

CORROSIVE SUBLIMATE, VERDI- 
GRIS, BLUB VITRIOL OR BLUE- 
STONE, LEAD. 

Symptoms. — An acid, disagreeable, 
rough taste, dry, parched tongue, with a 
sense of strangling, nausea, hot skin and 
burning thirst, intense headache followed 
by cold sweats, cramps and convulsions. 

Antidotes. — Excite vomiting by giving 
every two minutes white of egg mixed in 
water (twelve to a pint), very strong cof- 
fee, followed by doses of castor oil. If 
much pain in the stomach, apply leeches; 
give plenty of milk and water to encour- 
age vomiting; wheaten flour with milk. 

DIGITALIS TINCTURE.— Give plen- 
ty of strong coffee or tea without milk or 
sugar. Lie flat, produce vomiting by a 
tablespoonful of mustard in warm water. 

GASES, COAL GAS, ILLUMINAT- 
ING GAS, FIRE-DAMP, ETC.— These 
gases produce poisoning or suffocation. 

Symptoms. — Difficult breathing," partial 
or complete insensibility, deep sleep, face 
and body swollen and livid, convulsive 
movements. 

Antidotes. — Remove patient to fresh air, 
loosen all clothing about the neck and 
chest; elevate the head; dash cold water 
on the face and friction the chest and ex- 
tremities with mustard; use artificial res- 
piration; afterwards give hot coffee, rest 
and fresh air. 

GROUND GLASS, PINS, FISH 
BONES. 

Antidotes. — Give plenty of bread and 
milk or other feculent foods, then a luke- 
warm emetic; afterwards give milk and 
mucilaginous drinks. 

HAIR DYES, LUNAR CAUSTIC, IN- 
DELIBLE INK. 

Symptoms. — Great pain and burning in 
stomach. 

Antidotes. — Common salt in warm water 
as an emetic. 

IODINE.— Mix starch with tepid water 
and give plenty of it to drink; excite vom- 
iting. 

POISONED IVY, OR OTHER SIMI- 
LAR PLANTS. 

Symptoms. — A painful redness, itchi- 
ness, and sometimes blistering. 

Antidotes. — Daub, not rub, the skin 
with fresh buttermilk; in a few hours 
wash it off and apply again. If this does 
no good, make a wash of two drachms of 



hyposulphite of soda dissolved in a pint 
of water. A bran bath is good. 

MERCURIAL SALTS.— SUBLI- 
MATE CORROSIVE. CALOMEL. 

Symptoms. — Metallic taste, burning 
throat, pain in back of the mouth, and 
bowels; profuse purging, difficulty to pass 
water, pulse small, hard and quick; great 
flow of saliva, delirium. 

Antidotes — Milk, or the whites of eggs 
and sweet oil to be given freely, and af- 
terwards a thin paste of flour and water. 
Give large draughts of warm water if 
nothing else is available. Apply poppy 
head fomentations to bowels. A strong 
emetic to be given after the poison is neu- 
tralized, also stimulants. 

OPIUM, MORPHINE, LAUDANUM, 

PAREGORIC, etc.— All being prepara- 
tions of opium. 

Symptoms. — Drowsiness, faintness, 
snoring, stupor, convulsions, especially in 
children. 

Antidotes. — Give large draughts of fluid 
emetics; provoke vomiting by tickling the 
throat; dash cold water on face or neck. 
Apply smelling salts, give strong coffee 
and tea. Keep the patient awake by 
walking up and down, and give twenty or 
thirty drops of aromatic spirits of ammo- 
nia in a tablespoonful of water every 
few minutes until four have been taken. 
Give no stimulants. 

PHOSPHORUS.— The paste kept for 
roach poison or matches are sometimes 
taken, especially by children. 

Symptoms. — Intense burning and pain 
in the throat and stomach; diarrhoea or 
constipation. 

Antidotes. — Give freely of magnesia or 
carbonate of soda in water or common 
turpentine. Do not give oil, butter or 
milk. 

Give mucilaginous drinks, and lastly ad- 
minister finely powered bone-charcoal in 
a pill, or mixed with water. 

Drink plenty of barley water, then lem- 
onade without sugar, and a purge of mag- 
nesia. 

POISONOUS FOOD.— The principal of 
these are fish, shell fish and mushrooms, 
producing ptomaines. 

Symptoms. — Vomiting and griping, pains 
in stomach, giddiness, etc. 

Antidotes. — Give a warm salt or mus- 
tard emetic, then a dose of castor oil. 
Apply heat to the surface of the body, 
and give stimulants; for instance, twenty 
drops of sal volatile, or brandy and coffee. 

PRUSSIC ACID AND CYANIDES, 
BITTER ALMONDS (OIL OF). 

Symptoms. — ^They begin immediately. 
Great failure of strength, cold and clammy 
skin, fixed eyes and gasping for breath. 

Antidotes. — Dash first hot then cold 
water on the face and neck. Give brandy 
or whiskey, or ammonia in water. Inject 



148 



A FUNGUS IN MINES YIELDS LIGHT. 



strong coffee into the bowels. There is 
uo time for medicines when the pure acid 
is taken, and death is almost instantane- 
ous. 

P"'or bitter almonds or peach nuts, give 
freely mustard emetics; these contain 
prussic acid. A chemical antidote is am- 
monia added to tincture of iron. 

STRYCHNINE, NUX VOMICA. 

Symptoms. — Convulsions; body bends 
backwards and forwards; lockjaw; ghast- 
ly smile, clenched hands. 

Antidotes. — Try to empty the stomach. 
Give lime water, ether and essence of 
turpentine, also stimulants, tea and coffee. 
Relieve spasms with chloroform or ether. 

SUGAR OF LEAD, LEAD AND 
SALTS OF LEAD.— Plumbers, shotmak- 
ers, or painters suffer from lead poisoning. 

Symptoms. — Violent vomiting and colic; 
retraction of abdomen; hard, small pulse; 
difficult breathing. 

Antidotes. — Give Epsom salts in small 
doses until they act upon the bowels. Put 
two ounces in a goblet of water and give 
a tablespoonful every fifteen minutes until 
it acts freely. Emetics of warm water, 
salt or mustard. 

TARTAR EMETIC OR ANTIMONY. 
— When an overdose of antimonial wine 
has been given. 

Symptoms. — A'iolent vomiting, hiccough 
and great weakness. Colic and purging. 

Antidotes. — A strong infusion of fresii- 
ly made green tea or coffee; stimulants, 
warm, oily liquids, tannin, etc. It is nec- 
essary to be very careful after treatment. 

TOBACCO.— If taken to excess by 
smoking or otherwise will produce most 
distressing effect. 

Symptoms. — Trembling and spasms, 
giddiness, vomiting and purging, cold 
sweats. 

Antidotes. — Induce vomiting by a mus- 
tard emetic. Give stimulants, sal volatile 
or ammonia to nose; hot applications or 
mustard poultices to the body, and give a 
dose of castor oil. 



ACCIDENTS. 



BITES OF ANIMALS.— These are not 
dangerous unless the animal is in a dis- 
eased condition, suffering from rabies or 
very angry. When a bite is inflicted 
through clothing it is not nearly so dan- 
gerous as when on a naked part, as if 
there is any poison it is apt to be ab- 
sorbed by the clothing. 

Immediately after a person has been bit- 
ten, the wound should be well sucked, as 
there is no danger of the poison affecting 
any one sucking it, even if swallowed, 
unless there is some sore on the inside of 
the mouth, gullet or stomach; however, 
what is sucked should be immediately 
spat out. Inc-ease the flow of blood on 
the wound, and apply lunar-caustic, then 



put on a little water-dressing and try to 
forget the trouble, except when changing 
the dressing. 

If, however, there is evidence that the 
dog is mad, the wound should be scarified 
by cutting it across the tooth puncture to 
the depth of a quarter of an inch, and it 
should be allowed to bleed freely. Then 
a live coal or hot iron should be applied 
to the bottom of the wound, or a few drops 
of pure, undiluted carbolic acid dropped 
in. The patient or a bystander should 
suck the wound while the caustic is being 
obtained. 

GNAT BITES.— These are often ex- 
tremely troublesome in summer. Put four 
tablespoonfuls of eau-de-Cologne into a 
bottle and add to it one drachm of penny- 
royal; with this sponge the face and 
hands about twice a day. 

FOR INSECT BITES.— A very effica- 
cious remedy to have always in the house 
is made by dissolving ten grains of iodine, 
twenty-five grains of potassium iodide in 
one ounce of water. This solution must 
be put in a glass stoppered bottle, and will 
keep forever. In case of snake, insect or 
animal bites, apply immediately by brush- 
ing over with a feather. 

BITES OF INSECTS, MOSQUITOES, 
ETC. — Put four tablespoonfuls of eau- 
de-Cologne in a cup, add two tablespoon- 
fuls of cold water and one of salad oil. 
Put together in a pitcher and shake till 
well mixed. This should be kept on hand 
in a bottle ready for use. If the affected 
parts are dabbed with a piece of linen 
dipped in this, it will usually allay the ir- 
ritation. 

SNAKE BITES.— Follow the sam> in- 
structions as for the bite of an animal, and 
if possible a ligature should be tightlj ap- 
plied on a part above the wound, or else 
pinch the skin up tightly and cut out a 
circular piece as large as a finger nail, 
from a quarter to half an inch in depth. 
Then apply the caustic. Keep the patient 
quiet. Administer a little brandy or sal 
volatile, and this advice is useful even in 
case of non-poisonous snakes. 

RATTLE-SNAKE BITE.— Swallow a 
tablespoonful of sweet oil and bathe the 
wound freely with it also. This is known 
in the rattle-snake districts of Pennsyl- 
vania as a certain remedy for the bite of 
that venomous serpent. 

It is also a cure for strychnine or ar- 
senic poisoning, and will cure the stings 
of venomous insects, and is useful for lime 
or any matter of a corrosive nature in the 
eye. Lift the lid and put in a drop of 
sweet oil on a feather, and instant relief 
will be felt. 



BURNS AND SCALDS. 

BOILING WATER.— One of the com- 
moner slight accidents arises from boiling 



WHEAT GKOWS AT THE HEIGHT OP 1,000 FEET. 



14i) 



water being spilt on the hand or foot, caus- 
ing intense pain and considerable shock to 
the system. When a scald is severe, 
call in a doctor without loss of time, place 
the patient in bed, and give a cup of warm 
coffee or a dose of sal volatile (one tea- 
spoonful in a wine glassful of water, or 
considerably less for a young child), should 
be given at once. 

A SLIGHT SCALD.— Linseed oil, or 
salad oil, should there be none on hand, 
and common wheat flour should be ap- 
plied at once. Pour a little of the oil in 
a saucer, and ladle it over the scald or 
burn with a teaspoon, then flour the part 
thickly from the flour-dredger. A piece of 
clean rag, also thickly covered with flour, 
should then be placed over the injured 
part, and the pain will soon lessen, and 
the scald heal. The oil and flour makes a 
covering for the destroyed skin until na- 
ture repairs the damage. If the rag is 
well floured it will not stick to the sore, 
but should it do so, do not pull it ofE, but 
moisten with fresh oil ladled over, until 
it comes off by itself. 

No. 1. FOR A BURN.— If a burn is 
once covered with a piece of rag wrung out 
in glycerine, it will heal much quicker 
than if oil were used instead. No water, 
still less soapy water, should touch a scald 
or burn, as it causes great pain and irri- 
tates the injury, nor should the sore be 
touched with the hand. 

No. 2. BURNS AND SCALDS.— In 
case of bad burns or scalds, apply lime- 
water and linseed oil in as large quantities 
as can be procured, and wrap in old linen 
rags. 

> No. 3. FOR BURNS AND SCALDS. 
— An excellent remedy for relieving burns 
and scalds is ordinary yellow or brown 
soap. Thin shavings of soap are cut with 
a knife, placed on the scald or burn, and 
covered with a linen bandage. This sim- 
ple and cheap remedy quickly relieves all 
pain, and effects an early healing without 
leaving any marks. It may be useful 
when other remedies are not on hand. 

No. 4. FOR BURNS AND SCALDS. 
— A simple but useful home remedy can 
be made by mixing as much prepared 
chalk with pure lard as will make a thick 
ointment. Apply direct to the wound, 
and cover with lint and a bandage. 

BURN FROM A HOT IRON.— This 
will cease to pain almost immediately if 
a piece of soda moistened with the tongue 
is put on. A scald or burn, if the skin is 
not broken, can be cured by placing the 
burned part in strong soda water. 

SHOCK AND COLLAPSE FROM A 
BURN. — In case of shock to the nerves, 
resulting from an explosion, keep the pa- 
tient quietly in bed for a few days, give 
nourishing food and mild tonics, and 
small quantities of coffee. No meat or 



unwholesome dainties being allowed till 
the shock is overcome. 

Collapse. — The symptoms are a marked 
decrease in the temperature, the patient 
complams of cold, however warm the 
weather may be, and the pulse is weak 
and thm. When a person feels no pain 
after a burn, and is in a state of collapse, 
it IS a dangerous symptom. Keep him as 
warm as possible, well covered, and apply 
hot water bottles to the feet and sides, 
and give hot brandy and water to promote 
the action of the heart. 

CUTS. — In cases of cuts, the wound 
should first be thoroughly cleansed by 
sponging with hot water, and the flow of 
blood checked by pressure, by the appli- 
cation of hot water, or should it be obsti- 
nate, by the use of a solution of alum. 
Afterwards press the edges together and 
fix them in this position by applying a 
number of narrow strips of surgeon's ad- 
hesive plaster at short intervals across the 
wound. 

DEEP CUTS.— Wash the cut well with 
hot water — not cold water under any cir- 
cumstances — so as to clean it thoroughly, 
and bind it up with an old clean rag, 
which do not open, till the wound begins 
to itch. If the cut is very deep and severs 
an artery, send at once for a surgeon, and 
in the meanwhile bind a handkerchief or 
a cord, as tightly as it can be drawn — 
between the cut and the heart. 

If the wound is below the elbow or knee, 
bind the arm above the elbow, or the leg 
above the knee. 

SMOKE FOR CUT FINGERS.— The 
smoke of woollen rags is a cure for the 
most dangerous wounds. Put woollen rags 
on burning coals, and hold the finger in 
the smoke; this drives away the severest 
pains from the most dangerous cuts, and 
they will not return. This remedv has 
been known also to cure the wound in- 
flicted by an enraged cat, which tore the 
flesh from the wrist to the elbow. One 
ministration of smoke extracted all pain, 
which had been frightful. 

TURPENTINE FOR FRESH CUTS 
OR WOUNDS.— When there is a fresh 
cut or wound, however deep or long, while 
it is still bleeding, pour in some spirits of 
turpentine, this will cause no pain, the 
cut will heal, and barely leave a scar. It 
is worth trying, and has been found ef- 
fectual whenever it was used. 

FISH HOOK IN THE FINGER.— If 
a fish hook is once well imbedded in the 
finger, it can best be extricated by pushing 
the point out through the skin and then 
breaking off the barb. 

PINCHED FINGER.— If you accident- 
ally pinch or pound your finger badly, 
hold it in water as hot as can be borne. 
It will prevent inflammation. 



150 



WITHIN THE TROPICS FEW TREES LOSE THEIR FOLIAGE. 



TO REMOVE A TIGHT RING FROM 
THE FINGER.— Begin at the top of 

the finger and twist a length of strong 
thread around it, pass it under the ring; 
soap the thread well and commence to 
untwist the thread, when the ring will 
come off with it. 



FRACTURES, DIFFERENT KINDS. 

There are several kinds of frac- 
tures; the simple, the compound, the 
comminuted, the complicated, and the 
injury done to the bone in very young 
children, which is called the green stick 
fracture, as their bones split like a 
green stick, but grow together again by 
being carefully bandged. 

The Simple: Where the bone is broken 
only. 

The Compound: Where the bone is 
broken and a wound through the skin 
leads down to its broken ends. 

The Comminuted: Where the bone is 
broken into several pieces. 

The Complicated: Where the bone is 
broken and some of the surrounding parts 
injured, as when the ribs are driven into 
the lungs or liver, or when an artery or 
vein is injured by the broken bone. 

An ignorant nurse or mother can cause 
a complication by making a simple frac- 
ture into a compound one. Therefore, if 
it is an arm or leg, a splint should be put 
on before the patient is moved an inch. 
Get a stick or umbrella and tie it on 
with four pocket handkerchiefs, so that 
the limb is rigid and cannot double up, 
piercing the skin with the split bone. 

In examining the injured part, great 
care must be taken to handle it very gen- 
tly, as much harm may be done by rough 
usage. 

FRACTURES. — It is necessary to 
know how to treat these before the doc- 
tor comes, especially when accidents hap- 
pen to children. The following are the 
signs by which these injuries may be 
detected" and the simple treatment to be 
observed until the physician arrives. 

FRACTURE OF THE COLLAR- 
BONE.— In fracture of the collar-bone 
the patient is unable to raise the injured 
arm above the shoulder, and will be seen 
with his head inclined to the injured 
side, clasping the elbow with his sound 
hand. If the fingers are passed along the 
collar-bone, the sharp edge of it may 
be felt. 

Treatment: A pad of some firm ma- 
terial must be made and placed in the arm- 
pit. The arm of the sufferer must then 
be raised gently and placed in a large 
sling. Take a broad bandage and bind 
the arm to the side; this bandage must 
be outside the sling, and as near the 
elbow as possible. 



FRACTURE OF THE JAW.— In this 
fracture the patient is unable to speak 
properly, the jaw drops and causes the 
mouth to remain open, and the gums may 
possibly bleed. If the outside of the jaw 
be felt, and the finger passed along the 
teeth, a depression will be found. 

Treatment: Make a marrow bandage 
by folding a large handkerchief or a piece 
of linen, and gently raising the jaw to its 
natural position, pass the bandage round 
the jaw and over the head, cross the ends 
above one ear, carry them round the head 
and tie on the opposite side. 

FRACTURE OF FINGERS.— This 

does not often occur in children, as the 
bones are not sufficiently set to break easi- 
ly, still it may sometimes happen. The 
injured person has no power to move 
the fingers; there will be pain, heat and 
swelling, and the bone being so near the 
skin, some irregularity will be felt in pass- 
ing the finger along it. 

Treatment: Take a piece of flat wood 
as wide as the hand and very much 
longer: pad it well with cotton-wool and 
placing the injured hand upon it, bind it 
in position with a narrow bandage of 
linen, and sling the hand and arm in 
a large sling. 

FRACTURE OF THE RIBS.— If this 
occurs the patient will be unable to take 
a deep breath or cough without feeling 
a sharp pain. He will breathe in a very 
short, jerky manner owing to the pain 
it causes him, for the displaced ribs are 
most likely pressing on the lungs. If the 
hand is placed over the seat of injury, 
a grating sensation will most likely be 
felt when the patient breathes; sometimes 
the broken bones may be felt. 

Treatment: Take two broad, flat 
bandages and tie them firmly around the 
chest, making the lower part of one and 
the upper part of the other cover the seat 
of injury. Tie the patient on a bed or 
sofa and let remain perfectly quiet. 

FRACTURE OF THE SKULL.— If 

the skull be fractured at the base, there 
may be bleeding from the mouth, ears 
or nose: there is also a discharge of sticky 
bloody fluid from the ears. The patient 
will probably be unconscious. The un- 
consciousness is also seen in fractures 
of the roof of the skull, and if it is a 
compound fracture the bone may be seen. 
Treatment: The patient should be 
placed on a sofa or bed with the head 
slightly raised. Cold water cloths should 
be fipplied. and the sufferer kept per- 
fectly quiet and still until the doctor 
comes. 

FOR A SPRAIN.— Beat up a raw egg 
with an ounce and a half of turpentine, 
camphor, and spirits of wine, and keep 



THE TASTE FOR FLOWERS PROCEEDED FROM CHIliA AND PERSIA. 151 



in a tightly corked bottle. Rub it in well 
with the palm of the hand. 

No. 2. FOR A SPRAIN.— The treat- 
ment is either cold or very hot water, this 
being the quickest. Arnica should only 
be used if the skiu is unbroken, and then 
in the proportion of about one part ar- 
nica to sixteen parts water. 



STINGS AND THEIR TREATMENT. 

STING OP A BEE.— Press the sting 
out by applying the barrel of a key over 
the stung part, then put a scraped raw 
onion, or a slice of raw onion over the 
place, fastening it on with a light linen 
bandage. The onion should be kept on 
for an hour or even longer until all ir- 
ritation is allayed. 

This will rarely fail to ease the pain. 
The immediate pain of a bite or sting may 
be lessened by applying a tiny drop of car- 
bolic acid exactly on the puncture, not let- 
ting it touch the surrounding skin or it 
will cause a blister; the best way is to 
sharpen an ordinary match and dip it m 
the acid. Afterwards paint with a little 
collodion. 

TO CURE BEE STINGS.— The sting 



of a bee is more virulent than that of 
a wasp; its sting being barbed at the 
end is always left in the wound, while 
that of the wasp is pointed, and is with- 
drawn to sting in another part of the 
body. 

Among the remedies for the sting of 
a bee, rub the part with sweet oil, the 
juice of an onion, or a blue bag used for 
washing slightly wetted. 

The sting should always be carefully 
pulled out with a steady hand to pre- 
vent its breaking in the wound. Then 
suck the wounded part, and very little 
inflammation will follow; drop on a little 
hartshorn and the cure will be complete. 
STINGS OF INSECTS.— Honey and 
water will allay the irritation produced 
by bites of insects. Use a teaspoouful 
of honey in a quart of boiling water, put- 
ting it on the spot while the liquid is 
tepid. 

Washing with vinegar and water will 
protect the skin against unpleasant in- 
sects. The leaves of the scented verbena 
are said to be useful for the same pur- 
pose. 

Wet earth is a good remedy against 
wasp _stiues. 



153 



RHODIUM IS THE SCENTED WOOD OF THE CHINESE ROSE TREE. 



Maladies and Their Treatment 



ACNE. — A most excellent wash to use 
•wheu acne first appears, and one that 
will sometimes prevent it from becoming 
in any way conspicuous is made from one 
drachm of precipitated sulphur, one 
drachm of glycerine, and four ounces of 
rosewater. Applg with a soft rag. 

ACNE— A SIMPLE CURE.— This is 
a simple but efficacious remedy for the 
complete removal of acne: 

Make very hot some filtered rain water, 
and when sufficiently cooled to allow the 
hand being immersed, bathe the face in 
it, and sponge well, regardless of the heat 
that is felt upon the skin, as this is the 
cleansing process, and it is the heat that 
is required to remove and destroy the in- 
flamed portions of the sebaceous gland 
and surrounding tissues. Then rub the 
affected parts thoroughly with a lather 
of good soap, rinse again, and finally dry 
with a fine soft towel. 

When the skin has returned to its nor- 
mal coolness, sponge it over with a mix- 
ture of simple tincture of benzoin _ and 
rose-water in equal parts. Allow this to 
dry on. 

Continue the above treatment persever- 
ingly every night, and the most obstinate 
cases will receive relief, and finally be- 
come completely cured. Those who have 
a tendency to acne should refrain from the 
use of toilet powder in any form, but if 
the skin, after these ablutions, assumes 
a bright, shiny appearance, apply the fol- 
lowing: 

Sift through muslm some prepared bar- 
ley till six ounces is obtained, add two 
drachms of finely-powdered orris-root. 
Mix well, and lightly dust over the face 
when required. 

ANAEMIA.— This is a common com- 
plaint, traceable to the sedentary lives of 
school-girls, together with over-study, just 
at a time when their health is in a critical 
state. 

Anaemic persons have pale or yellow- 
ish skins, expressionless eyes and often 
a languid gait, their blood not being rich 
enough in red corpuscles to perform its 
Avork thoroughly. 

The symptoms of anaemia are beatmg 
headaches, disinclination for prolonged 
physical or mental effort, palpitation and 
breathlessness. 

Diet: A careful diet is necessary to re- 
store full vitality, and robust health. 
Anaemia needs sunshine and open air ex- 
ercise, iron tonics and cod-liver oil; plen- 



ty of milk and agreeable light foods, milk, 
puddings and fruit. Tea should be avoid- 
ed, for it contains very little nourishment, 
and acts harmfully on a weak digestion, 
preventing the food from being properly 
assimilated. Sea bathing is highly recom- 
mended for this complaint. 

BACK- ACHE. — Persistent back-ache 
very frequently arises from internal mis- 
chief, like inflammation caused from a 
chill, or other reasons or trouble which has 
arisen from a strain, lifting a heavy 
weight, or standing too much. A doctor 
should be consulted, as drugs are of little 
or no use. 

Massage in some cases of back-ache, 
even if it does not cure, will gives relief, 
and stimulating liniments are of service. 
For the relief of the pain, especially wheu 
so severe as to interfere with sleep, a bel- 
ladonna plaster is most useful. 

When the trouble is from internal 
causes, massage is of little service, and 
exercise may do more harm than good. 

BOILS. — Bathe them frequently with 
hot water, as hot as it can be borne. 

Avoid squeezing a boil or any gathered 
sore whatever. A few drops of turpentine 
may cure a single boil. Warm poultices 
of linseed meal, camomile flowers, or 
boiled onion root will bring them to a 
head. When perfectly ripe and ready to 
break, they may be discharged with a 
needle or lancet. The white skin that 
lines the shell of a raw egg is a useful ap- 
plication to a boil. 

Peruvian bark and port wine should be 
given to the patient, and sea bathing is 
recommended. 

A remedy for boils and to free them 
from the system is one much used among 
sailors, and has been found eflScacious. 

Break up two raw egg-shells and roast 
them over the fire until they are quite 
blackened, then pulverize them, by rolling 
them in a cloth. 

Mix this with one tablespoonful of dark 
New Orleans molasses, and take as a dose. 
To be repeated after a day or two. This 
will entirely clear the system of all the 
bad matter. 

BRONCHITIS.— Take four ounces of 
best pure honey, four ounces of either 
castor oil or cod-liver oil, two tablespoou- 
fuls of brown, moist sugar, one tablespoon- 
ful of malt vinegar, and the juice of two 
good lemons; mix well together in a bowl, 
then bottle. 



IN FRANCE VINES GROW LIKE RASPBERRY BUSHES. 



153 



Dose for adults: One tablespoonful four 
times a day. Shake well before taking. 

NO. 2. BRONCHITIS. — Take the 
dried leaves of common mullein plant, 
powder and smoke them in a clean, new 
clay pipe. Draw the smoke well into the 
throat, occasionally swallowing some. 
Use three or; four times a day. 

' DISCOLORED BRUISES.— To pre- 
vent a bruise becoming discolored, ajjply a 
cloth wrung out of water as hot as it can 
comfortably be borne, changing the cloth 
as it gets cold. If hot water cannot be 
had, moisten some dry starch with cold 
water, and cover the bruised part with it. 
BUNIONS.— Paint a bunion with tinc- 
ture of iodine every other day; this greatly 
reduces the inflammation. 

CURE FOR CANCER.— This is rec- 
ommended by a person who was cured of 
a cancer after the knife had failed. It 
certainly is worth a trial. Take some of 
the green herbs, sheep sorrel — which has 
a leaf something like a clover, and a yel- 
low blossom. It grows in fields and gar- 
dens, and has an acid taste. Bruise the 
leaves and stalks, and press out the juice. 
Put this in a pewter vessel and let it set 
in the sun till it becomes about as thick as 
cream. Then bottle it for use. Make a 
plaster of it and apply it to the cancer, 
renewing it three times a day. 

VIOLET LEAVES FOR CANCER.— 

The following recipe has been tried and 
found to be a wonderful cure. Pour a 
pint of boiling water over a handful of 
freshly gathered green violet leaves. 
Leaves until the water is green, which will 
take twelve hours. Strain the liquid, and 
in this infusion dip a piece of lint, warm- 
ing the liquid. Place this hot over the 
cancer, cover with oil-silk and change 
whenever cold or dry. Make a fresh in- 
fusion every two days. The growth, it is 
claimed, will soon disappear. 

FOR CATARRH AND COLDS.— An 
eminent English doctor recommends a 
slight tapping of the forehead over the 
nose and eyes for a remedy for incipient 
colds and a heavier tapping in chronic ca- 
tarrh. The first contracts the blood ves- 
sels and the second dilates them and fa- 
vors a free secretion of mucus. 

SPRAY FOR CATARRH.— Mix to- 
gether one and a half drachms of pure car- 
bolic acid, two drachms of bicarbonate of 
soda, two drachms of borax, one half 
ounce of glycerine, and enough distilled 
water to make one pint. Use with an 
atomizer to spray the nostrils and throat, 
both night and morning. 

TO USE A SPRAY.— When spraying 
the nasal organs, always keep the mouth 
open and avoid swallowing any of the 
liquid, as it is likely to lodge in the ear 
passages, and eventually will rot away the 



drum of the ear. This is the advice of an 
eminent physician. 

CHILBLAINS. — Those who suffer 
from chilblains will find it a good plan to) 
Avear washable boots and gloves at night.' 
The boots do not require to be very shape- • 
ly, and can be easily made at home.' 
Ihey should not be tight, and should have 
small holes perforated in the soles for 
ventilation. 

CHILBLAINS.— These can be quickly 
cured by laying on them a rag wet with 
warm water in which a large lump of 
saltpetre has been dissolved. Make the 
water as strong as possible with the salt- 
petre. 

UNBROKEN CHILBLAINS. — Take 
two ounces each of tincture of calendula 
and pure glycerine. Mix and shake the 
bottle each time it is used, and a little of 
the contents applied to the chilblains im- 
mediately after washing the hand^. 

CHILLS.— Treatement of: Directly a 
sensation of chilliness is experienced, the 
patient must be put to bed and a fire light- 
ed in the room. If the temperature rises 
to 100 degrees, send at once for the doctor, 
as it means something serious. Never 
neglect a cold or chill however slight it 
may be. Aconite is a very useful drug in 
cases of cold or chill; however, never give 
it without the doctor's orders. Camphor is 
a good homely remedy when cold has been 
taken, followed by a shivering. Give from 
three to five drops of the essence of cam- 
phor on sugar about every quarter of an 
hour, till reaction takes place and warmth 
is restored. Above all treat chills at once 
without any Avaste of time. 

FOR A COLD.— Put the juice of two 
lemons, two tablespoonfuls of honey and 
a tiny piece of butter into a tumbler. Pill 
the glass with boiling water, and drink it 
hot as possible directly after getting into' 
bed. 

NO. 1. COLD IN THE HEAD.- For 
a persistent cold in the head take a dose of 
compound syrup of hypophosphites three 
times a day. 

Drink plenty of milk, and take nourish- 
ing, digestible food. 

Have a snuif made of six drachms of 
subnitrate of bismuth, and two drachms 
of acacia powder. Take a pinch of this 
several times a day after blowing the nose, 
snifling it up well so that the powder may 
be carried up the nostrils. 

NO. 2. COLD IN THE HEAD.— A 
good remedy for a cold in the head or a 
wheezing chest is to grate some nutmeg 
in a tablespoonful of salad-oil, heat it 
over a fire or candle, and when hot, rub 
well with the hand into the chest and 
neck, also across the forehead. 

To be applied when in bed. This is ai 
simple and safe cure. 



154 



ALCOHOL IS DUE TO FERMENTATION OF VEGETABLE PRODUCTS. 



REMEDY FOR COLDS.— Take three 
medium-sized lemons, boil for six or eight 
minutes, take up on a plate and slice them 
very thin with a sharp knife. Put them 
and their juice into a brown earthern pan, 
and put over one pound of dark brown 
sugar — then set the pan on the side of 
the range, so the sugar may melt gradu- 
ally. When it is all melted move the pan 
to a hotter part of the fire, and let stew 
for about three hours. Then take it off, 
let stand for half an hour and stir in a 
small tablespoonful of oil of sweet 
almonds. 

When cold it is ready to use: Take a 
teaspoonful whenever required, stirring it 
from the bottom. 

This will cure the most stubborn cold 
and racking cough in a few hours. 

CORNS. — A famous doctor says linseed 
oil is a sure remedy for both hard and 
soft corns. If they are indurated and 
very painful a grateful relief will be found 
after a short time. Bind a soft rag over 
the corn saturated with the oil, and con- 
tinue to dampen it with the oil every 
night and morning until the corn is easily 
and painlessly removed. 

CORNS BETWEEN THE TOES.— 

These corns are generally the most trou- 
blesome, owing to their peculiar position. 
Wet them several times every day with 
hartshorn, and in a short time they will 
entirely disappear. 

OLD CORNS. — This old-fashioned 
remedy has never been known to fail for 
removing the most obstinate hard or soft 
corns. Take a little piece of common 
brown soap, put it on a piece of clean 
muslin or linen, and bind it on the corn. 
The difference will be seen in one day. 
Keep it on till it dries off, then apply a 
fresh one, and so continue till the corn 
goes away. 

SOFT CORNS. — The treatment for 
these painful things is very simple. 

Wash the feet night and morning with 
soap and water, especially between the 
toes, where the corns are located, and 
three times a week the corn should be 
rubbed over with a little spirit of cam- 
phor; this is to harden the skin. A piece 
of cotton wool to be changed twice a day, 
must be worn between the toes to keep 
them apart and wear shoes made to order, 
having them neither too large nor too 
small. 

No. 2. SOFT CORNS.— Scrape upon 
it a powder composed half of French 
chalk and half of common chalk, and tie 
it up in a linen rag. Put on fresh chalk 
each day till the corn comes off, which 
requires a week. 

FOR A COUGH. — Make a strong tea 
of hops, sweeten well with white sugar 
and add sufficient lemon juice to make it 



quite sharp to the taste. Take frequently 
a little at the time. 

REMEDY FOR A COUGH.— A severe 
paroxysm of coughing may be arrested 
by taking a teaspoonful of glycerine in a 
wine glass of hot milk, 

FOR CRAMPS. — For violent stomach 
cramps brought on through any cause, 
give twenty drops of sulphuric ether on a 
lump of sugar, and apply a hot water 
bag or flannel to the stomach. 

CURE FOR DROPSY.— This is said 
to be an infallible cure. Dissolve one 
ounce of sal prunella in one pint of boil- 
ing water. 

Dose: Small wineglassful three times a 
day. It carries off the water by the blad- 
der. 

EAR-ACHE. — Use two or three drops 
of chloroform on a piece of raw cotton, 
leaving it in for an instant at a time. 
Wet it, thrust it into the ear, count one, 
two, three, and take one instantly. Then 
after a quarter of a minute, repeat the 
operation, and continue until relief is ob- 
tained. 

If there be no chloroform handy sul- 
phuric ether will do instead. Keep both 
away from fire and lamps. 

CARE OF THE EYES.— Rules to ob- 
serve: 

1. When the eyes are weak, sleep all 
that is possible. 

2. Do not read in a car or any jolting 
vehicle: it causes a strain on the directing 
muscles of the eye. 

3. Do not read facing a light, nor in a 
reclining position, nor in the twilight. 

4. Keep soap and dust out of the 
eyes. 

5. Do not use the eyes continually for 
fine work without resting them often by 
looking at a distant object. 

6. Have a good steady light for any 
work. A poor or glaring one is bad for 
the eyes. 

7. Do not read too small type, only 
that which is seen readily at eighteen 
inches. 

8. Do not read when convalescent from 
a long illness, nor when the body is in a 
weakened state. 

9. Avoid poorly printed books with 
poor paper and type. 

10. Do not hold the book nearer than 
is necessary for clear, sharp vision. 

11. When the eyes are hot and heavy, 
bathe them in cold or tepid water, and 
cease to use them very much. 

12. Let the light come to the eyes from 
one side, the left one in preference, or 
from above, never from the front. 

13. Do not rub the eyes too roughly, 
and exercise care in removing foreign 
bodies from their surfaces. 

ACID IN THE EYE. — ^Tn case the eye 
should be injured by acid, it should be 



SACCHAKINE IS FOUND IN ALL STARCHY VEGETABLES, 



155 



bathed with one part of lime-water to 
three parts of pure water; or if this :s 
Dot to be had, the eye should be frequently 
bathed with milk. 

A CINDER IN THE EYE.— Throw 

the head back, and drop iu two or three 
flaxseeds, then lift the upper lid and draw 
it down over the lower, so to keep the 
seeds in. An instant relief will be felt, 
as the moisture of the eye dampens the 
seed, which produces a mucous substance 
and spreads over the eye and covers the 
cinder. When the seed works its way out, 
which will shortly occur, it brings the 
grit with it. 

COLD IN THE EYES.— This begins 
with a feeling of irritation in the eyes 
- which is increased by rubbing. The eyes 
are red and watery and strong light 
causes pain. Sometimes the lids are 
stuck together in the morning. Bathe the 
eyes every few hours with alum water, 
made by dissolving six grains of alum iu 
half a teacupful of rain water. To pre- 
vent the eyelids from sticking together, 
rub a little spermaceti ointment over 
them on going to bed. 

Rest the eyes and remain indoors if 
possible. 

FOR GRANULATED EYES.— Rub a 
small piece of alum into the white of an 
egg until a curd is formed. Apply to the 
lids upon retiring at night, and tie a piece 
of soft linen over the eyes. 

INFLAMED EYES.— Dissolve one 
ounce of boracic acid in half pint of 
water, bottle, and, when needed, pour a 
little into a basin, add enough water to 
make it rather hotter than lukewarm, 
and bathe the eyes with it. 

QUICKLIME IN THE EYE.— Quick- 
lime acts as a powerful caustic and often 
causes complete blindness by destroying 
the vitality of the cornea. Acute pain en- 
sues. The lime should be immediately 
washed out with water. If any remains in 
the eye, its effect will be neutralized by 
bathing with a teaspoonful of vinegar in 
a tumbler of water, or with sweet oil. 
The latter is less painful, as the acid of 
the vinegar causes a smart and the oil is 
very soothing. 

SORB EYES.— Apply hot water two or 
three times a day; this allays inflamma- 
tion almost instantly, while cold water ir- 

SWOLLEN AND BLOODSHOT 
EYES. — Sponge them several times dur- 
ing the day with very hot water. They 
are caused either by a heavy cold or us- 
ing them too much, and perfect rest is 
the best cure. Lie down in a darkened 
room, with a cloth dipped in hot water 
laid over the eyes. 

Boracic acid is an excellent remedy for 
painful, bloodshot eyes. Dissolve half an 
ounce in half a pint of boiling water, hot-, 



tie and let cool. Then add to a little of 
the solution enough boiling water to make 
it lukewarm, and well bathe the eyes. Re- 
peat several times a day. The eyes must 
be thoroughly dried after bathing, or 
more harm than good will be done. 

WOUNDS IN THE EYE.— In case of 
other accidents to the eye, such as 
wounds from the points of scissors, sharp 
toys or other edged tools, nothing can be 
done till the doctor comes. Send for 
him instantly. When the cornea is pene- 
trated, and the lens injured, cataract is 
very often the result. 

In children a cataract is generally ab- 
sorbed, while in adults, if an operation 
must be performed, modern science makes 
absolute cure possible. 

INFLAMED EYELIDS.— This trouble 
is indicated by white or yellowish grains 
forming on the edge of the lids along the 
eyelashes. One of the best and simplest 
remedies is cold tea. Bathe the eyelids in 
this several times a day, winking a little 
of the tea up under the lids. At night, 
the cold, steeped tea leaves should be 
bound over the eyelids. This treatment is 
almost sure to bring relief, and finally 
effect a permanent cure. 

Boracic acid is another treatment. Dis- 
solve a teaspoonful of the powder in a 
teacupful of water, and use the same as 
the cold tea. 

Citrine ointment is very healing. Apply 
it along the edge of the lids. 

FAINTING.— Lay the patient on the 
floor or sofa with the head on a level or 
slightly lower than the body. Loosen all 
clothing, and allow the air to play freely 
round the body. Sprinkle the hands and 
face with cold water. 

FELONS. — Get a piece of the outside 
end fat off of bacon or ham and bind it 
on the felon. In three days it will be 
cured. Or, place the finger in a bowl of 
water as hot as can be borne, having a 
small piece of washing soda dissolved in 
it. After it has been in about fifteen 
minutes, keeping it hot, apply a flax seed 
poultice before the finger cools off. Re- 
peat four or five times a day, and if on 
the second day the inflammation is not re- 
duced, have it opened by a surgeon. These 
are also called whitlows and run-arounds. 

FEVERS. — Non-professional people 
should not assume the management of 
grave cases of fever. There are so many 
dangers attending them that a medical 
person should be summoned at once in 
order to check further and more serious 
trouble. The varieties of fevers are: Gas- 
tric, or bilious, intermittent, or fever and 
ague, malarial, inflammatory, scarlet, en- 
teric, yellow, typhoid and typhus. 

FEVER CURED BY SULPHUR.— 
It is a well known fact, and has been 
proved in many cases, that if any one 



156 



FARIXA IS MADE FROM STARCHY GRAIN. 



subject to any kind of fever or visiting 
fever infected places, should place pow- 
dered sulphur in the soles of their shoes, 
it will free them of any danger of in- 
fection, or cure them of any fever they 
may be suffering from. This is specially 
applicable to yellow fever. The sulphur 
should be renewed every two or three 
days. 

HAY-FEVER.— When the complaint 
shows itself with a severe cold, headache 
and sneezing, it can often be stopped by 
using a nasal douche night and morning, 
spraying the nose with two grains of car- 
bolate of zinc, and one ounce of distilled 
water. At night apply a little carbolic 
ointment inside the nostrils. Avoid go- 
ing out in the middle of the day, and 
do not sit in a room where there are flow- 
ers. Eat nourishing food, and take a tonic 
as well. 

FOR FROST BITES AND SORES.— 

Take twelve ounces of mutton tallow, 
twelve ounces of hog's lard, two ounces of 
red iron rust — peroxide of iron — two 
ounces of Venice turpentine, one ounce of 
oil of bergamot, and one ounce of bole 
Armenian rubbed to a paste with sweet 
oil. Put the tallow, lard and iron rust 
into an iron kettle and set it on the fire. 
Stir continually with a clean iron rod till 
the whole mass becomes perfectly black, 
then add the other ingredients gradually 
and keep on stirring till they are all mixed. 
Let cool, then put in jars for use. Put a 
little of this salve on a linen rag and bind 
upon the sore every day; in four days it 
will be healed. This is a Swedish cure. 

SOFT GUMS. — Listerine and water, 
half of each, held in the mouth for two 
minutes at a time, and repeated fre- 
quently, will cure and prevent the gums 
from bleeding when brushed, or a few 
drops of tincture of myrrh in the rins- 
ing water will also prove effective. 

HEADACHE. — If the headache be ac- 
companied with sick stomach, take an 
emetic of one teaspoonful of table salt in 
a little water. After vomiting, take ten 
drops of hartshorn in a tablespoonful of 
cold water, and lie down for half an hour 
or so. 

If headache alone, bathe the wrists and 
arms in cold water, the feet in strong, 
hot mustard water, and take the hartshorn 
without the emetic. Lie down and the 
headache will soon go. 

NERVOUS HEADACHE.— Try walk- 
ing backwards. The relief is always cer- 
tain and generally speedy. Ten minutes 
will be sufficient. A hall or a long narrow 
room is best for the walk. Walk very 
slowly, letting the ball of the foot touch 
the floor first, and then the heel — in fact 
as one should walk forward. 

Bathing the back of the head in hot 
water will give relief. 



FOR A BLISTERED HEEL.— Scrape 
a little yellow soap and mix to a paste 
with a little water. Apply this. 

CURE FOR HICCOUGH.— Caused hf 
indigestion, acidity or flatulence. It can 
be relieved by sudden application of cold, 
by eating a small piece of ice, by two or 
three mouthfuls of water, swallowing 
while the head is inclined sideways, or 
anything that excites counteraction. 

Another remedy is to inflate the lungs 
fully while sitting quite erect, and then 
bend slowly forwards till the chest meets 
the knees; rise again slowly to the first 
position, slowly exhaling the breath. Re- 
peat a second time, and a cure will be 
effected. 

HYSTERIA.— The difference between a 
fit of hysterics and any dangerous attack 
such as epilepsy can be easily distin- 
guished. In the former the patient laughs 
and cries alternately, is partially con- 
scious and will at times answer when 
spoken to, but in epilepsy there is a total 
insensibility and foaming at the mouth. 

The attack often takes place without 
previous warning, although some symp- 
toms betray its approach, such as exces- 
sive yawning, dejection of spirits with- 
out any cause, sudden bursts of tears and 
palpitation of the heart. School girls 
sometimes suffer from hysteria, when 
prompt measures must be used. 

Treatment: When the attack comes on, 
lay the patient on the bed, loosen all 
clothing, and apply plenty of cold water 
to the face and head. Fresh air is neces- 
sary, and keep the patient quiet. 

Thirty drops of laudanum, and as many 
of ether may be administered. 

A glass of wine when the patient can 
swallow is good. Avoid excitement and 
tight lacing. 

INDIGESTION is what many people 
suffer from, some perhaps unconsciously. 

For such sufferers relief may sometimes 
be gained by drinking a little lemon juice 
and water after meals. 

Fruits contain certain acids and pep- 
tones which are particularly suited for 
assisting the acids in the stomach in their 
work of digesting food. It is for this rea- 
son it is beneficial to take a certain 
amount of fruit after a meal. Pineapples 
are particularly good for this purpose, be- 
cause they help to digest meat, but this 
fruit is not good when eaten with or just 
after bread and butter alone. Lemons 
are highly recommended for weak di- 
gestions on account of the acid they con- 
tain. 

CURE FOR INDIGESTION.— Sixty 
grains bicarbonate of soda; three fluid 
drachms of tincture of rhubarb; one fluid 
drachm of sal volatile; six fluid ounces of 
strong peppermint water. A tablespoonful 
after each meal, and repeat the dose in 



GUM. IS PURE MUCILAGE WITH SWEET, OILY JUICES, 



15^ 



half an hour if relief has not been ob- 

taiued. 

CURE FOR ITCH.— Take tliree table- 
spoonfuls of the best hog's lard; put it 
in a small bowl, add half a gill of the best 
tar or enough to make a compound as thick 
as thin molasses. Beat thoroughly till all 
the tar is dissolved. At bedtime rub the 
affected parts with this ointment, after it 
has been well stirred. Have old cloths 
ready to prevent soiling. This simple rem- 
edy is almost magical in its results. Sar- 
saparilla tea should be given at the same 
time in order to clear the blood. 

FOR STIFF KNEES.— If you are 
troubled with stiff knees through having 
overtaxed the muscles while riding, bathe 
the joints each night, after riding, in hot 
water, and then apply goose-grease, rub- 
bing it well in with the hand for ten min- 
utes. Three or four applications will con- 
siderably relieve, and continual use will 
completely cure. 

A SLUGGISH LIVER.— A few weeks' 
diet will restore a sluggish liver and give a 
woman the good complexion she fondly 
longs for. If her nerves are run down she 
should abstain from tea and coffee for 
awhile and deny herself stimulants. 

Oranges should be used lavishly espe- 
cially before breakfast. 

Graham bread and whole meal bread 
should take the place of ordinary ground 
flour preparations. Pastry should be 
avoided, and plenty of rare, lean meat, 
fresh eggs and green vegetables should 
form the staples of diet. 

A MOUTH WASH.— A little tincture 
of myrrh mixed with warm water makes 
a pleasant mouth wash, especially if the 
mouth is sore or if a tooth has been drawn. 

ULCERATED MOUTH.-Small ulcers 
inside the mouth can be dried up and the 
pain relieved by applying powdered alum 
dissolved in water. 

FOR NERVOUS PROSTRATION.— 
Beef, iron and wine is a good tonic foi 
this complaint, also plenty of plain, un- 
dressed lettuce and celery. As both of 
these vegetables contain morphine, they 
will build up the nerves and not leave any 
evil effects of the drug. Eat also raw and 
baked apples, but nothing spicy, hot or 
highly seasoned. 

NEURALGIA. — Where the pain is 
mostly in the temples and upper part of 
the face the following will give immediate 
relief: Put two tablespoonfuls of cologne 
into a small bottle with two teaspoonfuls 
of fine salt and shake well together. Ap- 
ply it to the nostrils the same as smelling 
salts and the pain stops at once. 

TO CURE NEURALGIA.— Sufferers 
from neuralgia are warned not to drink 
tea, but to partake freely of coffee into 



which the juice of a lemon has been 
squeezed. 

BLEEDING FROM THE NOSE.— 
There are several remedies to be tried for 
this complaint. One is to use powdered 
alum as a snuff, or if this is not effectual, 
mtroduce by means of a probe a small 
piece of soft cotton dipped into a solution 
of alum. Friar's balsam or even cold water. 
Cold water snuffed up the nose will gen- 
erally succeed. Apply also a cold lotion 
to the forehead or a piece of ice ; raise the 
head, and over it place both arms so that 
It will rest on the hands; heat should be 
applied to the feet, and the sudden shock 
of a cold key, or cold water poured down 
the spine will often instantly stop the 
bleeding. If the bowels are confined, take 
a purgative. 

Another remedy is to snuff up tannic 
acid in powder form. 

A skein of plaited red embroidery silk 
tied round the neck will, they say, cure 
obstinate cases of nose bleeding. 

Lemonade without any or with very lit- 
tle sugar used in moderation at meal times 
will often cure children who are subject 
to nose bleeding. 

PNEUMONIA.— The following highly 
recommended and simple process has many 
times rescued pneumonia sufferers from this 
dangerous disease, even in very severe at- 
tacks, and is worthy of notice here. It 
has received the sanction of noted medical 
men, and should certainly be tried on a 
patient: 

Prepare three flannel cloths at least a 
foot square, and saturate them with a well 
heated mixture of equal parts of tincture 
of laudanum and water. Apply them al- 
ternately to the chest as hot as they can 
be borne at intervals of three or four 
minutes until the congestion is relieved, 
and the circulation restored to its normal 
channels. This should take an hour or 
two without stopping. The attendant should 
protect his uanas in wringing out by wear- 
ing rubber gloves. 

One gentleman was cured of four severe 
attacks simply by the aid of this process, 
and he is very desirous of imparting his 
knowledge to others. 

FOR PRICKLY HEAT.— Mix together 
one ounce of glycerine, half an ounce of 
rosemary water and twenty drops of car- 
bolic acid. This is very soothing, as the 
carbolic acid neutralizes the poison of the- 
blood, and heals the eruption by disinfect- 
ing it. Also excellent for rough skin. 

CURE FOR RHEUMATISM.— Beat 
up thoroughly three fresh eggs, adding half 
an ounce of oil of origanum and spirits, 
of hartshorn, and when these are well 
mixed, add half a pint of strong vinegar.. 
Put the mixture into a bottle, and shake 
well every time it is used. 

Rub the affected parts when retiring. 



158 



GUM AEABIC IS FROM A SPECIES OF MIMOSA. 



No. 2. Cure for Rheumatism. — Mix some 
spirits of hartshorn with common coal oil. 
Put it in a bottle and shake well to mingle 
the hartshorn and oil together. Shake every 
time it is used. Rub briskly on the af- 
fected parts. ^ 

SALLOWNESS.— A frequent cause of 
sallowuess arises from indigestion, the 
forms of this complaint being numerous, 
and it does not follow because no discom- 
fort is felt after meals that the food is 
properly digested. Daily baths, vigorous 
rubbing, a light, easily assimilated diet are 
essential, and regular outdoor exercise must 
b( taken. Avoid all mental and physical 
exertion soon after meals, as this interferes 
with the digestion, and if these rules are 
followed the skin will soon assume its 
normal color. 

SHINGLES.— The only treatment is to 
avoid irritation and not poultice the blis- 
ters. This disease is generally limited to 
one side of the body, and consists of groups 
of flattened blisters. 

SORE THROAT. — Steep some red pep- 
pers in cider and use as a gargle, swallow- 
ing a little occasionallv. A good remedy 
is to gargle the throat with brewers' yeast. 

SPINAL NEURALGIA OR SIMPLE 
SPINAL WEAKNESS.— Medical gym- 
nastics as well as massage are of great 
service for this trouble. A useful move- 
ment is to stand a little distance away 
from the wall, raise the arms above the 
head, with the backs of the hands towards 
the wall, and bend gradually backwards 
until the tips of the fingers touch the wall. 
At first it is only possible to do this stand- 
ing a few inches away from the wall; but 
gradually one can bend farther back- 
wards and increase the distance. After 
doing this, while retaining the arms in the 
position above the head, the body should 
be stooped forward till the tips of the 
fingers point towards the floor. These 
two movements should be repeated four or 
five times. 

STYE. — This painful and disfiguring 
complaint is an abscess in one of the 
glands of the eyelid. Procure from the 
drug store a small quantity of citrine 
ointment mixed with an equal proportion 
of almond oil and apply a little of it to 
the edge of the eyelid where the stye is. 
If it is too far advanced to give way to 
the above remedy, use hot fomentations 
and this will help the cure. Sulphide of 
calcium in tablet form will also assist, 
one to be taken every four hours. 

FOR DELICATE THROATS.— A 
woman with a delicate throat should 
eschew fur collars and warm wraps. 
ISathe the neck and chest in cold water 
every morning, and then rub with a rough 
towel. Eat honey at all meals except 
dinner. Never breathe through the mouth, 
Bleep in a close room or get the feet wet. 



THROAT TROUBLE. — A simple 
remedy for hoarseness and throat tickling 
is a gargle of the white of an egg beaten 
up to a froth in half a glass of warm 
sweetened water. 

INGROWING NAILS.— When these 
gather, a cooling lotion of arnica and 
water should be applied, and after bathing 
with this, a piece of prepared lint, not 
large enough to cause inconvenience should 
be gently pushed under the corner of the 
sore nail. This treatment must be con- 
tinued for two weeks or more until the 
inflammation is reduced. Then the cor- 
ner of the imbedded nail should be slightly 
rounded with scissors and allowed to grow. 
Wear easy boots or shoes. 

THE TONGUE.— The tongue quickly 
betrays any disorder in the body. In 
health it is clean, moderately red in color 
and moist. When it is coated and furred, 
it indicates fever. If this is the cause the 
temperature of the body will be above the 
normal 98^/^ degrees Fahrenheit. Some- 
times bad teeth are the cause of its being 
coated; this is easy to see and if they 
be all right, seek the source of the trouble 
in the stomach, liver or bowels. Con- 
stipation will produce bad breath and a 
furred tongue. In nervous diseases, a dry 
tongue is a sign of nervous depression, and 
a flabby, pale tongue indicates an anaemic 
condition. 

TO DISLODGE FOOD PROM 

TEETH.- Should the teeth grow close to- 
gether, particles of food may lodge be- 
tween them; when the toothbrush fails to 
remove these, pass a piece of dental floss- 
silk between the teeth. Never use a pin 
or a needle to the teeth; a wooden tooth- 
pick will do no harm. 

TOOTHACHE.— Dip a piece of raw 
cotton in a drop or two of chloroform and 
thrust it in the hollow tooth. Let it re- 
main about half a minute at the time, 
then remove it. Or, try two or three 
drops of essential oil of cloves, to be ap- 
plied the same way. 

A drop of creosote applied to the tooth 
or a few grains of camphor placed in the 
decayed opening or camphor moistened 
with turpentine will often afford instant 
relief. 

DENTAL HINTS.— Brush the teeth 
after every meal using three toothbrushes, 
one rather hard, another moderately soft, 
and the third small and round with a curve 
in the handle to penetrate every corner of 
the mouth. 

Always use tepid water, never quite 
cold. Use a drop or two of tincture of 
myrrh in the rinsing. Brush the teeth 
from the gums to the crown to dislodge 
anv particles of food. 

If the brush is used lengthwise, the 
food will be more firmly lodged in the 
teeth than ever. 



GUM TRAGACANTH IS A NATIVE OF CRETE. 



159 



ULCERATED TOOTH.— An ice bag 
ou the tiice will reduce tlie swelling caused 
by an ulcerated tooth; never apply a hot 
watei' bag; but a hot raisin can be placed 
next to the gum and this will relieve the 
pain. 

WARTS. — For warts which are so ter- 
ribly disfiguring, obtain a piece of lunar 
caustic (nitrate of silver), fit it into a quill 
and pencil the wart once or twice daily. 
Moisten the wart with water, do not touch 
the healthy flesh, and if the wart is of 
the hard type, every day pare off all the 
blackened parts and so help the process. 
If of the soft type, the skin will continu- 
ally peel, and the wart will in time pass 
away. The disfigurement will only be 
temporary. 

SIMPLE REMEDIES FOR WARTS. 

—Common washing soda dissolved in water 
until the liquid will take up no more is said 
to be an excellent cure for warts. Moisten 
them with it and let dry without wiping. 

No. 2. — Oil of cinnamon rubbed on two 
or three times a day will cause them to 
disappear. 

No. 3. — A mixture of powdered lime and 
the white of an egg is an effectual cure. 

No. 4. — The juice of the herb celendine 
will also remove the warts. 

HOMCEOPATHY.— The principle of 
homoeopathy, so often preferred to the 
older system of allopathy, means that the 
homoeopathists in order to cure a disease, 
administers a medicine which would pro- 
duce exactly the same symptoms in a 
healthy person. He ascertains the state 
of the patient's health, and in order to 
neutralize the symptoms, he gives certain 
preparations that would produce an ill- 
ness of a like character in persons of good 
health. 

HOMCEOPATHIO MEDICINES. — 
These are given in form of globules or 
tinctures, the latter being the most pre- 
ferred. The practitioners argue that large 
doses of certain drugs administered for 
certain purposes will pass through the sys- 
tem without any way affecting the organs, 
and these will be acted on most power- 
fully by the very same drugs when given 
in much smaller doses. A certain atten- 
tion to diet should be observed when tak- 
ing homoeopathic medicines. 

THE KNEIPP CURE.— The Kneipp 
•water cure is highly recommended for 
many ills, and for the benefit of those 
who are not acquainted with its curative 
properties a few general hints for its 
application is hereby appended. Water 
has the power to dissolve the morbid 
matters in the blood, to evacuate what 
is dissolved, to strengthen anew the en- 
feebled organism and to restore a regular 
circ'ulntiou. 

EFFECTS OF THE WATER CURE. 
— ^A pure and unremitted water cure is 



disadvantageous, even dangerous in cases 
of heart complaints, lung complaints, suf- 
ferers from brain trouble, spine trouble, 
epileptic patients^ lunatics, dropsical pa- 
tients and those enfeebled by age or dis- 
ease. Good results can be expected in 
cases of all acute inflammations, such 
as croup, erysipelas, diphtheria, pneu- 
monia, rheumatism, scarlet fever, small- 
pox, typhus, measles, etc. Injuries, 
chronic stomach troubles, liver and kidney 
inflammation, skin diseases, nervous 
troubles and the excessive use of morphine, 
chloral, mercury, etc. 

APPLICATIONS OF THE WATER 

CURE. — The water cure can be applied 
as follows: As vapors, to dissolve the 
morbid matters in the blood. 

As warm baths, to increase the bodily 
temperament and to evacuate morbid mat- 
ter. 

As bandages, to evacuate the dissolved 
morbid matter and to prevent excessive 
flow of blood to any one part. 

As shower baths, to harden the organ- 
ism and produce a right circulation of 
the blood. 

As cold ablutions, when the patient 
cannot stand cold baths and showers. 
These must only last from one to two 
minutes. Ablutions of certain parts of 
the body are called part ablutions; of the 
whole body, whole ablutions. 

WALKING BAREFOOTED.— This is 
an, excellent means for hardening, as 
it diverts the heat from the upper body 
and head. When suffering from excessive 
perspiration of the feet do not walk too 
long. After the walk put on dry shoes 
and stockings, and take exercise. Do not 
pause or stand still during the walk. 
Walking in wet grass should be done on 
soft turf, wet by dew, rain or sprinkling 
and last from a quarter to half an hour. 

WALKING ON WET STONES should 
last from three to five minutes; healthy 
persons can walk a quarter of an hour. 

WALKING IN NEWLY FALLEN 
SNOW should last from three to four 
minutes, not in the cutting wind, but, best 
of all, in the spring. 

WALKING IN AUTUMN HOAR 
FROST should only last from three to 
four minutes. 

WALKING UP TO THE CALVES 
in water from one to five minutes, either 
in running water or in the bath tub. 

WALKING IN SANDALS is pleasant 
and hardening. 

OBESITY.— The most rational way of 
reducing weight is by paying careful at- 
tention to the diet, and also a certain 
amount of strength of mind is necessary 
to obtain the desired result. Be weighed 
before beginning the treatment and also 



1^0 



AMBER IS THE PRODUCT OF A NOAV EXTINCT TREE. 



from time to time, to ascertain what 
progress is being made. 

EXERCISE. — A regular amount of ex- 
ercise must be taken every day, but also 
avoid over-fatigue. Rise early, take a 
tepid batli, rub vigorously with a Turkish 
towel, and another bath may also be taken 
before the late dinner. 

DIET.— Sweet, starchy and fat-form- 
ing foods should be avoided, because by 
stopping the supply of fat to the system, 
the body is obliged to consume what it 
has already stored up, thereby reducing 
the weight. 

Take half a pint of very hot water be- 
fore breakfast. The breakfast should 
consist of a broiled chop, a steak or some 
white fish, and dry toast followed by 
some kind of fruit. Drink either tea or 
coffee without milk, and for the tea add 
a few thin slices of lemon. Drink nothing 
while eating. White wine is flesh reduc- 
ing. 

Take nothing between breakfast and 
luncheon. For luncheon and dinner, the 
following diet will be suitable: 

White fish, beef or mutton (no veal or 
pork), poultry and dry toast or rusks. 

Vegetables that contain no starch or 
sugar are allowable; therefore do not eat 
potatoes, peas, beetroot, etc., but fruit 
both fresh and stewed if the latter is 
sweetened with saccharin instead of sugar. 

For afternoon tea merely take one cup 
of tea and a dry biscuit. Lemonade 
makes a good drink if not taken sweet. 

TO REDUCE STOUTNESS.— Sleep 
only as much as is required for health's 
sake; seven hours is sufficient for any 
woman; retiring at 10.30 or 11 o'clock. 
Drink very little, fluids being flesh-pro- 
ducing. Eat toast instead of bread, take 
only lean meat, no gravy, potatoes, rice, 
milk, pastry, fat, butter, cheese and other 
fat-producing articles. Take plenty of 
active exercise and sleep on a mattress. 
Avoid all sweet things especially sugar. 
Eat no more than will just serve to satisfy 
the appetite. Do not lace tight, as this 
produces stoutness. Walk as much as 
possible. 

TO BECOME PLUMP.— Drink plenty 
of milk beginning with one or two glasses 
a day, then three glasses until six can be 
consumed daily. If cold milk should be 
found too heavy or indigestible, then have 
the chill just taken off. Plenty of green 
vegetables and fruit should be eaten. 
Take a moderate amount of exercise with- 
out getting tired. Get plenty of sleep and 
rest, a generous diet and gentle massage. 
If these instructions are followed flesh can 
soon be acquired iniless prevented by 
hereditary or constitutional causes. Milk, 
butter, oatmeal, fat meats and brend 
should all be freely taken, while acids, 
vinegar and sour wines be avoided. 



WATER AS A DISINFECTANT.— 
Fresh water being a powerful absorbent 
is a valuable disinfectant. Every sick 
room should have a large vessel of clear 
water placed near or under the bed, thia 
to be frequently renewed. The water not 
only absorbs much of the bad atmosphere, 
but softens and tempers it by its evapora- 
tion. On the same principle water that 
has been standing for any length of time 
in a sick room should never be used for 
drinking purposes. 

COLD WATER, ITS TONIC PROP- 
ERTIES. — A cold douche after a warm or 
tepid bath is most invigorating. There 
is nothing to be compared with cold water 
for washing the face; it keeps the skin 
firm and fresh, prevents wrinkles and 
beautifies the eyes. 

In many cases of morning headache, 
bathing the head with cold water on get- 
ting up will effect a cure when other 
remedies have failed to do so; it will also 
improve the growth of the hair. 

A glass of cold water taken on waking 
in the morning will give tone to the sys- 
tem, and another one at bedtime will keep 
the body in perfect health. 

HOT WMTER.— A cup of hot water 
taken the first thing in the morning will 
often prevent a bilious attack. 

Hot water as a beverage is exceedingly 
wholesome, especially when the digestive 
organs are weak. It can be taken instead 
of any other liquid for breakfast, adding a 
little orange syrup, and its constant use 
will cure a bad case of chronic dyspepsia; 
a little lemon juice will also make it pala- 
table. 

A WATER TEST. TESTING WA- 
TER FOR ITS PURITY.— Fill an ounce 
bottle half full of water and dissolve there- 
in a few crystals of permanganate of 
potash, enough to make the solution 
strongly tainted, but yet transparent when 
held up to the light. Half fill a clean 
tumbler with some of the water to be 
tested, and in another tumbler the same 
quantity of pure distilled wafer, that can 
be purchased at the druggist's. 

Now pour a few drops of the above 
permanganate solution info the distilled 
water, so just to make the color a barely 
perceptible pink, then pour exactly the 
same number of drops info the other 
tumbler. The more impure the wafer is, 
the sooner the pink coloration will vanish. 

Good drinking water should retain its 
pink color, almost, if not quite so long as 
the distilled water. 

The cause of this test is easily ex- 
plained. Noxious impurities in water are 
principally organic matter which iS 
prompflv acted upon or oxidized by tha 
norm nnira rate, and thereby the latter loses 
1 its characteristic pink color, while in pure 



Ar.ECA-NUT MAKES TOOTH-POWDER. 



161 



water the permanganate remains un- 
changed. 

KEEP THE WATER PURE.— If a 
pitcher of water be set in an inhabited 
room, in a few hours it will have absorbed 
the perspiration gases of the room, ren- 
dering the air purer, but the water unfit 
for use. The cause of this is, water has 
the faculty of condensing, and thereby ab- 
sorbing nearly all the gases. Hence, 
water kept uncovered in a room for a 
while is always unfit for use; it should 
often be renewed whether it has become 
warm or not. Impure water is as in- 
jurious as impure air, and every one 
should be careful to obtain fresh, pure 
water for all domestic purposes. 

-HINTS ON MEDICINE TAKING.- 

1. A medicine glass should be in every 
house. 

2. Always read the label on the bottle. 

3. Shake the bottle before pouring out 
medicine. 

4. Even if the bottle is marked, it is 
safer to measure the doses. 

5. Medicine ordered to be taken three 
times a day should be given at 10 A. M., 
2 P. M., and 6 P. M. If it is to be taken 
every four hours, these are 8 A. M., 12 
noon, 4 P. M., and 8 P. M. 

6. Do not give medicine during the 
night unless distinctly ordered by the doc- 
tor. 

7. Do not wake the patient to give him 
medicine unless ordered by the doctor. 

8. Hot milk and coffee disguise the 
taste of castor or cod-liver oil better than 
anything else. 

9. Cod-liver oil is best taken after 
meals; if once a day, after breakfast, 

10. Iron, to be taken after meals. 

11. Magnesia, effervescent powders or 
other aperient medicine to be taken on an 
empty stomach — preferably half an hour 
before breakfast. 

12. Quinine, half an hour before a 
meal. 

TO PREVENT NAUSEOUS TASTE 
OF MEDICINES. 

Aloes. — Take with a strong solution of 
extract of liquorice. 

Castor oil. — Wet a wine glass, and in it 
put a tablespoonful of strained orange 
juice. Pour the oil in the centre, then 
over this squeeze a few drops of lemon 
juice. 

Can also be taken in coffee, brandy or 
milk. 

Cod-liver oil. — Take it in orange juice 
the same as castor oil, or in tomato 
catsup. 

Cinchona bark. — To be taken with milk. 

Senna. — Cloves conceal the taste of 
senna. 



MEASURES FOR MEDICINES. 

Liquid medicines are always measured 
by the following table: 

60 minims or drops are contained in 1 
fluid drachm. 

8 fluid drachms are contained in 1 fluid 
ounce. 

20 fluid ounces are contained in 1 pint. 

8 pints are contained in 1 gallon. 

In order to measure medicines accurate- 
ly there are graduated glasses for meas- 
uring ounces, drachms and minims, or 
the following table answers for the pur- 
pose, referring to ordinary sized spoons 
and vessels: 

A tumbler usually contains about 10 
ounces. 

A teacup usually contains about 6 
ounces. 

A wine glass usually contains about 2 
ounces. 

A tablespoon usually contains about 4 
drachms. 

A dessertspoon usually contains about 2 
drachms. 

A teaspoon usually contains about 1 
drachm. 

Some cups hold twice as much, and 
some tablespoons contain six drachms, 
therefore it is necessary to keep a medi- 
cine glass in every family to insure ac- 
curacy. 

_ Formerly drops were ordered, but min- 
ims are considered more correct, except 
for such medicines as oil of cloves, ginger 
etc. * 

MEASURE OF LENGTH. 
4 inches equals 1 hand. 
12 inches equals 1 foot. 

3 feet equals 1 yard. 

5% yards equals 1 pole or rod. 
40 poles equals 1 furlong. 

8 furlongs equals 1 mile. 

1760 yards, 5280 feet, equals 1 mile. 

MEASURE OF SOLIDITY. 

1728 cubic inches equals 1 cubic foot. 
27 cubic feet equals 1 cubic yard. 

MEASURE OP SURFACE. 

144 square inches equals 1 square foot. 

9 square feet equals 1 square yard. 
30% square yards equals 1 square rod, 

or pole. 

40 square rods equals 1 square rood. 

4 square roods equals 1 square acre. 

640 square acres equals 1 square mile. 

43,560 square feet equals 1 acre. 

WEIGHTS. — Medicines are made up by- 
troy weight, but drugs are bought by 
avoirdupois weight. The troy weight is: 
Twenty-four grains, 1 pennyweight, or 24 
grains; 20 pennyweights, 1 ounce, or 480 
grains; 12 ounces, 1 pound, or 5,760 grains. 



162 



ARNATTO IS A DYE PREPAKED FROM REEDS, 



APOTHECARIES' WEIGHT. — 
Twenty grains, 1 scruple; 3 scruples, 1 
drachm; 8 drachms, 1 ounce; 12 ounces, 
1 pound. 

AVOIRDUPOIS WEIGHT.— 27 11-32 
grains, 1 drachm, or 27 11-32 grains; IG 
drachms, 1 ounce, or 437% grains; 16 
ounces, 1 pound, or 7,000 grains; 28 
pounds, 1 quarter; 4 quarters, 1 hundred- 
weight; 20 hundredweights, 1 ton; 2,240 
pounds, 1 ton. Abbreviations used in 
weights. — Drachm (dr), ounce (oz), pound 
(lb), quarter (qr), hundredweight (cwt). 



BATHS. — The daily bath may or not 
be a necessity, but aside from its delight- 
ful results, it has a most beneficial effect 
upon the skin. The hour, temperature 
and manner of bath must be subject to 
the constitution. The vigorous and strong 
may bathe early in the morning and oh 
an empty stomach. 

The young and the weak had better 
bathe two or three hours after a meal. 
In cases of extreme delicacy constant 
bathing should not be indulged in without 
a doctor's sanction. 

Ammonia added to the bath is most 
refreshing and purifying to the skin. 

COLD BATHS.— Never stay long in 
any bath, especially a cold one; the quick- 
er it is over the better. It acts as a 
good stimulant to those strong enough 
to stand the shock. 

As cold water is not cleansing have 
a basin of tepid water standing near t\\e 
bath, in which the body may be soaped 
all over first, the cold bath being the 
final plunge. Those who cannot stand a 
cold bath may take a tepid one, the 
temperature ranging from 85 to 95 de- 
grees. 

HOT BATHS. — Hot baths should never 
be taken in the morning; the proper 
time is several hours after a meal or 
before bedtime. The effect of hot water 
is to open the pores and render one liable 
to cold. However, they may be taken 
any time when overtired from riding, 
walking, cycling or travelling, and then a 
hot bath is most refreshing, but to do 
any good it must be a sponge bath and 
remain in only a few minutes. 

TO KEEP ICE IN A SICK ROOM.— 
If the ice is kept in an ice pail it quickly 
melts, so the following manner will be 
found very useful when an icebox is not 
on hand: Make a V shaped white flannel 
bag and sew two rather long tapes close 
together on one side of its mouth and 
two more on the opposite side. Suspend 
the bag in a deep, wide mouthed jug, ty- 
ing it to the top, fastening two of the 
tapes on one side and two on the other. 
Fill the bag with clean broken ice and 
cover it with a piece of loose flannel. 
The bag must not touch the water that 



accumulates in the jug, but pour this off 
from time to time. Wash the flannel, 
which must be coarse, before using it, 
as a new piece will be hairy. A large 
felt jejly bag will answer the purpose. 

CARE OF INVALIDS.— When sitting 
in a room with an invalid the nurse may 
occupy her hands with some bit of work 
that can be readily picked up and laid 
down. Reading is too absorbing in ap- 
pearance, if not in reality, and the patient 
often hesitates to interrupt. Unless the 
attendant has some little occupation to 
fill the odd moments of leisure the sick 
person is sometimes unpleasantly conscious 
of being burdensome to one who may 
be wishing to do things elsewhere. 

The sense of being constantly watched 
is fatiguing. 

TO CLEAN AN INVALID'S ROOM. 
— If you wish to clean an invalid's room 
without raising any dust put a few drops 
of ammonia in a pan of water. Take 
a good sized sponge, wet it with the 
water to which the ammonia has just 
been added, squeeze it quite dry and 
wipe the carpet with it. Little rolls 
of dirt will accumulate on the sponge, 
which should be picked off and thrown 
in a dust pan kept near at hand. Rinse 
the sponge often, and when the water gets 
dirty throw it away and have fresh. In 
this way a carpet may be perfectly cleaned 
without making a particle of dust, and 
is not as laborious as many may think. 

BED MAKING.— The method of a 
trained nurse may well be studied care- 
fully by all bed makers. There is no 
real reason why only invalids should be 
comfortable. The under sheet is tucked 
in carefully and tightly at both ends. On 
the sides at each corner it is folded back 
carefully in the same way that a paper 
parcel is folded at the corners of a pack- 
age. Then the sides are tucked in. The 
other sheet, the blanket and the spread 
are tucked in at the foot in the same 
way and drawn very tightly under the 
sides. 

SICK ROOM COMFORTS.— The right 
thing is often not to be had when it is re- 
quired in illness. But the experience and 
inventiveness of those who have learnt 
what mother necessity teaches, may be of 
use some time or other. 

BED REST.— A very light chair be- 
tween the pillows and the head answers 
all the purposes of a head rest. It should 
be placed with the back downwards, and 
then covered with pillows. 

BED TABLE.— These can be bought 
cheaply, or made by any local carpenter. 
A substitute, however, in an emergency 
can be made by using a shallow drawer 
and placing that on the bed. If this is 
not done, put the tray upon a pillow, as 



ASAFCETIDA IS THE JUICE OF A PEKSIAN PLANT, 



163 



this steadies it and makes it much more 
comfortable to the patient. 

BOOK WEIGHTS.— When a sick per- 
son wants to read in bed, the leaves of 
the book are apt to fly open and turn 
over. Sew a few pennies in a bit of stuff 
— not silk, as that slips — and fasten two 
of these to a short length of string. They 
form handy weights for laying on leaves 
and keeping the book open. 

HOT WATER BOTTLE.— If there be 
no bottle on hand, make some bricks very 
hot by placing them in the oven and then 
covering them with flannel, or else sub- 
stitute a flat iron. Strong wine or beer 
bottles filled with very hot water and 
securely corked can also be used, being 
careful there is no leakage. 

FEEDING CUP.— This is not always 
at hand when a patient who is too weak 
and too ill to sit up requires to be fed in 
a lying posture. A small earthenware tea- 
pot is a capital substitute, the spout being 
put into the mouth, and the contents very 
slowly poured, so the person can swallow. 
Do not fill the pot more than half full at 
a time, and hold the cover on with the 
thumb as you use it. 

AIR CUSHIONS.— Good substitutes 
for air cushions can be made circular or 
square, but always with a hole in the 
middle to prevent chafing and bed sores, 
by placing well puUed out wadding in old 
linen or muslin. Let the chafed part be 
put on the middle space. Burn them when 
soiled. 

A NIGHT LIGHT.— A night light may 
be suddenly required when there are none 
in the house. One can be extemporized 
with a little salad-oil and cottonwool. 
Make a float by taking a piece of the bat- 
ting about the size of a quarter of a dollar, 
pull up a little to the centre and twist it 
between the finger and thumb to form a 
wick. Fill a goblet two-thirds full of 
water, and pour a third of salad oil on top; 
less oil if for a few hours. Float the wick 
upon the oil, and it will give a steady 
light. 

PULLEY. — This, so general in hos- 
pitals, is usually hung over the bed, and 
the patient can raise himself by holding on 
to it. A very good makeshift can be made 
thus: Take a stout piece of wood, cover 
it with cloth or other material, and let 
that form a cross bar handle to which at- 
tach a double length of webbing sold for 
waist belts. One end can be secured at 
the foot of the bed. This is admirable 
for the patient to pull himself up or down 
with. 

SCREEN. — A screen is very useful in 
a sick room, both for keeping out draughts 
and hiding the washing arrangements. A 
makeshift is easily contrived with a tall 



clothes-horse covered with any piece of 
material. 

SPATULA.— A spatula is i-equired for 
making linseed or other poultices. A very 
good substitute is an ordinary steel table 
knife, or still better an ivory, bone or 
wooden paper knife. Always keep hot 
water by you when making a poultice, 
and dip the spatula or its substitute into 
it every now and then. 

WAKING THE NURSE.— When the 
patient is too weak to call his nurse in 
case she does not sleep in the same room, 
and no bell is near, an excellent plan is to 
tie the end of a long piece of tape to the 
nurse's wrist and let the other end be 
fastened with a safety pin to the sheet 
close to the patient's head. The latter can 
easily pull the tape and the nurse be sum- 
moned. 

TO SERVE. A SICK PERSON'S 
MEALS. — The nurse should always make 
the meals look as tempting as possible 
with snowy white napkins, sparkling glass, 
and always a flower or two in a dainty 
vase. These small details are often more 
potent than the punctual administration 
of the medicine. 

Never leave untouched food by a per- 
son's bedside in the hope that he will 
eat it later on. This simply disgusts him 
with the food altogether. Many sicE; 
persons have a craving for tea; if this is 
the case, infuse the leaves in boiling 
milk, instead of water, thus forming a 
strengthening and refreshing beverage. 

PRECAUTIONS WHEN VISITING 
THE SICK. — Stay only as long as possi- 
ble and do not enter the infected room 
on an empty stomach, when fatigued or 
when perspiring. De not enter in the 
early morning before the room has been 
aired, and on leaving eat some food, 
change clothing and air the latter. Take 
a warm bath and rub the skin well. 

Breathe lightly while there and if the 
disease is very contagious place yourself 
nearest the window. Carry a piece of 
camphor on your body. 

SLEEP. — The time of sleep required by 
different persons varies according to tem- 
perament, manner of life and habits. A 
man of active, nervous temperament, liv- 
ing plainly, could perform great mental 
and bodily labors and require only four 
or five hours' sleep, while a less active 
person needs eight to nine hours. 

OVERSLEEPING. — One needs more 
sleep in winter than in summer. Very 
old people require as much sleep as in- 
fants, and both classes may sleep half 
the time and even more. It is positively 
injurious for any one to sleep more than 
is actually necessary. Six or seven hours 
is long enough for the average healthy 
person-^some need an hour or so more — 
and others thrive mentally and physically 



164 



THE BETEL CONSISTS OF THE PEUIT OF THE AEECA PALM. 



on four hours' sleep, but never sleep for 
sleep's sake. 

POSITION.— This is very essential, for 
the body requires the best breathing ca- 
pacity to circulate the blood to the best 
advantage. Lie on the right side, unless 
some physical ailment prevents. The 
head should be slightly drawn down on 
the pillow, which should be five or six 
inches high. Flex the limbs slightly and 
allow no joint to rest upon another. Close 
the lips and breathe through the nostrils, 
not the mouth. Do not sleep with the 
bead too high, for it compresses the chest, 
bends the neck and crooks the whole 
body. When lying on the right side the 
heart is nearly horizontal and its action 
becomes less labored and its beating less 
frequent, removing to a great extent the 
tendency to nightmare and apoplexy. 

Avoid reclining nearly on the face. 

SLEEPLESSNESS.— The commonest 
causes of sleeplessness are worry, indiges- 
tion, stuffy rooms or heavy bed clothes. 
The first, worry, is not easy to control, 
but a determined resolve to distract the 
thoughts before retiring by some cheer- 
ful conversation, easy game or light read- 
ing will probably be successful. To avoid 
Indigestion at night, late suppers should 
be eschewed, the latest light, digestible 
food not taken later than 7 or 8 o'clock. 
If something more is required before bed- 
time take a glass of hot milk with a bis- 
cuit or a cup of bread and milk. 

Stuffy rooms can be avoided by open- 
ing the window at the top. As to heavy 
bed clothes, if close woven coverlets are 
used at all they must be thrown back 
at night. Two or three warm single 
blankets are sufficient covering, although 
some can bear much heavier clothes than 
others. Take plenty of outdoor exercise, 
for it soothes the brain. 

REFRESHING SLEEP.— Some scien- 
tists assert that the head of the bed 
should be placed to the north, so that 
the polar current may strike vertically 
through the body toward the feet; others 
advocate a very low pillow, allowing the 
neck to remain unbent. Many people pre- 
fer a more upright position, but the cor- 
rect attitude to assume while seeking 
sleep is on the right side, especially after 
eating. The breathing should be tlirough 
the nose, and the mouth kept shut, if 
possible. 

SUNLIGHT.— Sunlight is a great disin- 
fectant. Allow a stream of it to pass 
through every room early in the morning, 
but as soon as the heat of a ,Tuly day 
begins, about 9 o'clock, close either the 
windows or blinds, that the hot air may 
not condense on the cool walls. 



ESSENCE OF BEEF.— COOKED.— 

Cut the raw meat into tiny bits, put into a 
Vride mouthed glass jar or bottle, set it 



in a saucepan of cold water with the 
cover on loosely. Heat slowly, and when 
the water boils screw down the cover 
or cork tightly; boil for two hours. 

RAW. — Soak half a pound of chopped 
raw beef for three hours in a teacupful 
of cold water with a very little salt, 
press out all the juice with a lemon 
squeezer and use cold in a green glass 
to disguise the color. 

BEEF TEA.— Take a pound of lean 
beef without fat, bone or skin, and cut 
it into small squares. Put the pieces in 
an earthen jar, add a little salt and a 
quart of water. Set the jar in a sauce- 
pan of water over the fire and simmer 
very gently for four hours. Strain and 
let cool. Remove every particle of grease 
from the top, and when required for use 
stir it well and heat up what is required 
for the invalid. Very thin, dry toast may 
be served with it. 

Beef tea will not prove so monotonous 
a diet if a different flavoring is used 
each day — such as celery, clove or bay 
leaf. 

EGGS FOR INVALIDS.— Pour half a 
coffee cup of milk in a pan and set it 
on the fire; when it boils break an egg 
in it carefully and let it cook from three 
to five minutes. Have a neatly trimmed 
piece of buttered toast ready; lay the 
egg on it, salt and pepper over; pour on 
the milk and serve while very hot. 

CALF'S FOOT JELLY.— Put four 
well cleaned calves' feet in four quarts of 
cold water and let it simmer down gently 
to two quarts, strain and put it away 
to harden. Remove all the fat and sedP 
ment. Dissolve the jelly over the fire, 
add the juice of three lemons and the 
thin outer rind, the whites of three eggs, 
two sticks of cinnamon and sweeten to 
taste. Boil for ten minutes, skim off the 
surface, take out the peel and cinnamon, 
then strain the jelly until it is clear, put 
in a pint of sherry wine, boil up once, 
strain once more, then pour into a jelly 
mould. 

FLAXSEED JELLY.— Soak a small 
cupful of whole flaxseed for two hours in 
cold water, pour this off and put the §eed 
in a pint of boiling water, then boil .for 
five minutes. Drain off this water and 
put the seed into a quart of fresh boiling 
water and leave it stand on the hot range 
for half an hour without boiling. Strain 
through a piece of muslin or a hair sieve, 
squeezing out all the mucilaginous parts, 
then boil this fast for fifteen minutes 
longer. Add the juice of two lemons, _a 
cup of sugar and a piece of licorice, if 
liked. Strain again and set the jelly 
away to cool. 

BARLEY WATER HONEYED.— 
When barley water is prescribed as a 
sedative or an emollient use the pearl 



BIRD-LIME IS PREPARED FROM BERRIES OF THE MISTLETOE. 



165 



barley. If the large barley is used then 
throw off the first water, because the 
hulls contain a certain astringent princi- 
ple. If the barley water is to be used 
for a gargle then use the whole barley 
and do not throw off the first water. 
Boil until well cooked, then pour over 
blackberry leaves and add one spoonful 
of honey and one of vinegar. 

BLOOP PURIFIER FOR SPRING 
TIME. — This drink is excellent in the 
spring of the year to clear the blood: 
One ounce of hyssop, one of elder blos- 
soms, two ounces of mullein, four of lic- 
orice root, one of sage, two of sarsaparil- 
la root, five of juniper berries, one of 
sassafras root and one of liverwort. Tiie 
herbs to be rubbed fine between the hands. 
The sarsaparilla and licorice roots to be 
chipped up and the berries bruised. Mix 
all well together. Put one tablespoonful 
in a vessel, pour over three quarts of 
water, put it on the fire and simmer 
down to two and a half quarts. Let 
stand till cold. Drink several glasses 
during the day. It is very pleasant and 
the best blood purifier known. 

COUGH MEDICINE.— Half an ounce 
of boneset, half an ounce horehound, half 
an ounce slippery elm and half an ounce 
best licorice stick. Put these in two quarts 
of water and boil slowly down to half the 
quality, then add half a pound of brown 
sugar and one pint of molasses and boil 
all this to half the quantity again. Strain 
carefully, and while still hot add one pint 
of Jamaica rum or good rye whiskey. Use 
■ when cold. 

Dose: One tablespoon every hour until 
relief is obtained. 

This is excellent for an obstinate cough. 

COUGH MIXTURE.— Put four very 
fresh whole eggs in a bowl, add the juice 
of seven lemons, leave for five days, turn- 



ing the eggs over every night, when the 
shells will have dissolved. Prick the egg 
skins and stir well together; steam, add 
one pound of sugar, stir again well, and 
when melted add one pint of rum and 
bottle. 

Dose: One tablespoonful when the 
cough is troublesome. 

LEMONADE FOR SORE THROAT. 

— Grate the rind of one lemon and squeeze 
out the juice of two over two large spoon- 
fuls of sugar. Only grate the yellow 
part, tlie white being very bitter. Pro- 
ceed the same with one orange, a blood one 
in preference. Strain this through a cloth 
after fifteen minutes. This will make 
a delicious syrup and very healing for 
the throat. More sugar can be used, but 
the sourer it is the better. 

t)NlON SYRUP.— This is sometimes 
useful in cases of insomnia. Place a large, 
strong onion in an earthenware jar and 
cover with coarse brown sugar. Place 
it in a slow oven and leave for four to 
six hours. Pour the syrup into a bottle 
and take a dessertspoonful on waking in 
the night. It is also good for a cough. 

SPRING TONIC— Cream of tartar 
and powdered sulphur is good for thinning 
the blood. A dose is one teaspoonful 
three times a day. Oascarilla is also an 
excellent spring tonic. 

WINTER FOODS.— All heat-giving 
foods should be selected for winter use, 
the same as those of a cooling nature 
for summer. Eat more soups, oatmeal 
and sugar than usual. 

Hot bacon, jam or marmalade are good 
for breakfast, with any cereal eaten with 
cream and sugar. The amount of food 
required varies with the age; old people 
require less food than younger ones, yet 
of a warming nature in winter. 



166 



CUDBEAR IS USED FOR DTEINTt PURPLE; IT GROWS OX ROCKS. 



Animals, Birds. Domestic Pets 



BEES. — It is said that when handhng 
bees, if the person holds his breath, the 
insects will not attack him. The skin 
hardens in such a manner that they rare- 
ly can drive in their sting. Bees have a 
horror of any black object, therefore when 
it is necessary to be among them, en- 
velop the body in a black garment and 
they will seldom attack. The queen is a 
longer insect than the worker, is much 
more slender, and has long, bright legs. 
A drone is short, and fat, and has a dis- 
tinct buzz. 

When bees do not go out as usual, but 
keep around and in their hives, rain is al- 
most sure to follow soon after. 

Bees will not work in cold and draughty 
supers, so cover them with warm quilts, 
tucking in the corners. 

Save every scrap of wax, keeping it in 
a closely covered jar or tin. BoiJ_down 
occasionally and strain. 

Do not extract honey before the comb 
is sealed over, or the flavor will not be 
good. Do not bottle honey immediately 
after extracting, or it will be likely to fer- 
ment. Let it stand in a room for a few 
days, skim off the thin layer on top and 
then bottle. 

CANARIES. 

TO CLEAN. — To neglect the cleanli- 
ness of food, cage or water is a sure means 
of bringing on disease. The cups should 
be so arranged as to be easy of access 
for the bird's head, and the bathing dish 
should be shallow and wide enough to 
prevent the bird from injuring his feathers 
while taking his plunge. 

Strew the cage every morning with 
clean gravel, for small pebbles are abso- 
lutely necessary to their life and health. 
Fresh water must be given every day, 
both for drinking and bathing, and during 
moulting season a small bit of iron must 
be put in their drinking water. 

THEIR FOOD. — The food should con- 
55ist principally of summer rape seed, 
that is, from small brown rape seeds sown 
in spring, and which ripen during the 
Bunimer, large and black rape seeds. 
These, on the contrary, are sown in au- 
tumn and reaped in spring. Give them 
a little chickwt-ed in the spring, lettuce 
leaves in summer and endive in autumn, 
with slices of sweet apple in winter. 
Bread and sugar ought to be avoided. Oc- 
casionally, a few poppy or canary seeds, 
and a very little bruised hemp seed. 



PERCHES. — Perches which are too 
small are a source of misery to the birds. 
They should be — when the same size 
throughout — about twice the diameter of 
a common lead pencil. 

TO HANG THE CAGE.— During the 
winter the cage should never be hung in 
a room without a fire, but then when the 
air is mild and the sun shines bright, the 
little prisoner will be refreshed by having 
the window open. 

The cage should never be less than 
eight inches in diameter, and a foot high, 
with perches at different heights. 

INDIGESTION.— If a young canary is 
observed to sleep more than usual, or it 
has the appearance of a puff ball, take it 
in hand at once. Probably it is suffer- 
ing from indigestion, arising from un- 
wholesome or stale food, or from having 
eaten too many delicacies. 

TREATMENT.— Catch the bird and 
drop a couple of drops of castor oil down 
his throat, or the drinking water may be 
removed from the cage for a couple of 
hours, and then put back with a few drops 
of cod liver oil floating on the top. Either 
of these will probably bring relief. The 
bird should then be removed to a dry, 
warm place, and fed on crushed hemp for 
a few days. 

Diarrhoea is caused by giving too much 
green food — or wet, decayed or stale seeds. 
Bad drinking water is another frequent 
cause. 

If at night the room gets cool, wrap a 
thin blanket closely round the cage, se- 
curing it below. Endeavor to notice the 
bird as much as possible; treat it gently, 
talk to it and avoid all violence of tone or 
movement in its presence. 

TO CUT THE CLAWS.— Birds kept 
in cages need to have their claws cut. 
Catch it as gently as possible, cover his 
bead, so he may not see what you are do- 
ing. Get some one to hold him gently but 
firmly, then cut the claw with a sharp 
pair of scissors about a quarter of an 
inch from the flesh. Be most careful 
never to draw the blood. 

DISEASES. 

Pip. — Mix butter, garlic and red pepper 
and swab out the throat with this. 

Costiveuess. — Give plenty of green food 
and fluid. 

Lice. — If fresh water is kept m the 
cage, the bird will free itself of these. 



GALL-NUTS ARE PROTtJBERAlSrCES ON" TREES. 



167 



Loss of Voice. — Make a paste of bread, 
yolk of egg, rape seed and lettuce, or else 
give it whiskey and sugar. 

Moulting.— While the bird is moalting 
keep it warm and feed it well. A rusty 
nail or a few grains of saffron should be 
kept in the drinking water. 

CANARY NESTING.— A canary will 
know how to build her nest in her cage, 
only give her some soft straw, hairs, 
threads, etc. If one be made for her she 
will likely tear it to pieces with her beak, 
and build one to suit herself. 

The hen usually begins to lay in April; 
she sits thirteen days, waited on assidu- 
ously by her mate. She lays from four 
to six pale blue eggs, and hatches five and 
sometimes six times in a season. She will 
sometimes eat her own eggs. To prevent 
this put her food in her cage overnight, 
for she generally gets hungry before morn- 
ing, and if her breakfast is not on hand, 
she is likely to break her eggs. 

FEEDING THE YOUNG CANARIES. 

• — They are always fed by the male bird, 
but in about two weeks they can feed 
themselves, and can be put in a cage 
when about a month old. Up to this time 
they must be fed on hard boiled egg mixed 
with a little bread soaked in water, and 
then squeezed dry. Keep them on this 
diet and seed for four or five weeks 
longer. 

YOUNG CANARIES.— To tell a cock- 
bird from a hen, observe the bird when it 
is singing, and if a cock, the throat will 
be seen to heave with a pulse-like motion. 
This is scarcely perceptible in the hen. 

Feed young canaries with white and 
yolk of hard egg, mixed with a little bread 
steeped in water. Press this and put it 
in one vessel and in another put some 
boiled rape seed washed in fresh water. 

Change the food every day. 

When they are a month old put them 
into separate cages. Cut the claws of 
cage birds occasionally, when they grow 
too long, but be careful not to draw blood. 

THE CARE OF CATS. 

FEEDING.— Cats should be fed regu- 
larly twice a day. If they are to be kept 
in perfect health, their feeding must be 
wholesome and systematic. Bread and 
broth with a little cooked meat will an- 
swer for their dinner, with a little fish 
occasionally, but avoid pork, veal or game. 

A domestic cat leading a very seden- 
tary life does not require as much meat as 
one of outdoor habits. If the cat likes 
vegetables, give a little with discretion. 
Let the cat hr.ve access to plenty of cold 
water, and warm milk when the weather 
is chilly. Dog biscuits are wholesome. 

DISEASES.— These include sore throat, 
pneumonia, bronchitis and consumption, 
as cats are very susceptible to dampness. 



A rough, untidy coat denotes illness, 
and when accompanied by restlessness and 
sleepiness, administer a dose of castor oil, 
and put the animal in a sheltered place. 
Mortality from influenza is very common 
among cats and dogs, but strange to say, 
it is much lower among stray ones than 
among those with good homes. 

In giving medicine roll the sick animal 
in a sheet, its paws at its side, the mouth 
pressed open, and a bit of wood laid across 
the lower jaw behind the eye teeth, for 
to be bitten by a cat is a very serious 
matter. 

POISON. — When any poison is sus- 
pected, act with energy and promptness. 
Give a liberal dose of lukewarm water 
slightly salted, or, safer yet, give sweet oil 
or melted lard. 

Do not shake or scold a sick cat, they 
will soon understand that the treatment 
is for their good, and will soon submit. - 

INFECTION.— There is no doubt that 
cats and other animals receive infection, 
and much danger is incurred by children 
fondling and caressing pet animals, es- 
pecially dogs and cats. We sometimes 
see a domestic pet curled up by its little 
master and mistress while inhaling the 
infection of fever or measles, which it 
later passes on to a well member of the 
family. 

KITTENING.— A she cat should not be 
mated before she is at least a year old, 
and the torn cat not before two years. 

The signs of a she cat when ready are 
unmistakable, and a mate should be se- 
lected, although as stated before not when 
she is too young. The signs generally be- 
gin when she is from seven to eight 
months old. 

Cats rarely need any help during par- 
turition. She must not be given any solid 
food for at least forty-eight hours after 
the kittens are born, and only warm milk 
the first day. On the second, a little 
broth can be given, and meat on the 
third. If all the kittens die the cat 
will need attention to prevent milk fever 
and congestion of the mammary glands. 
The teats swell and harden, and to relieve 
her, rub them over a few times with cam- 
phorated oil. 

KITTENS. — If the kittens are born ap- 
parently dead, revive them by placing all 
but the head in lukewarm water, and 
rub the body gently with the hands. 

They must be weaned after three 
weeks. Have a saucer of sweetened milk 
and water, and make them lap this up. 
When two months old, they can begin to 
eat the same diet as older cats, onl£ 
feeding them less often. 

FALLING HAIR. — When pussy's hair 
falls out try a cooling diet and plenty of 
grass. , , , . , 

Rub the spot with unsalted lard mixed 
with flowers of sulphur. 



1G8 



LIQUORICE IS THE EXTRACT OF A ROOT. 



DOGS. — Dogs are full grown when they 
are two years old, and live generally about 
fifteen years. Young dogs often suffer 
from distemper, usually when they are 
getting their teeth. Half of the dogs born 
die of it. This sickness generally lasts 
between twenty and forty days. 

When a dog is seized with madness it 
will show great fear of water, and will not 
touch it. It has no appetite, its eyes are 
red, and it runs about biting whatever 
comes in its way. It should be at once 
killed. 

CARE OF DOGS.— The best way to 
keep dogs healthy is to let them have 
plenty of exercise, and not overfeed them. 
Give plenty of cold water, and encourage 
them to swim, as it assists cleanliness. 
They should be fed only once a day. Meat 
boiled specially for them and the liquor in 
which it is boiled, thickened with barley 
meal, forms a good food. When they are 
ill consult a druggist who sells cattle 
medicines, and abstain from doctoring 
them oneself. Warm baths are often 
beneficial. 

FLEAS ON DOGS.— To eradicate the 
fleas, wash the dog with carbolic dog soap 
and a stiff dandy brush. This should be 
done once a week till the pest is cured. 
Then rub pennyroyal to the dog's hair at 
the back of the neck, and at the base of 
the ears. 

GOLDFISH, HOW TO MANAGE.— 
Gold fish can be kept almost any length 
of time, accidents apart, if kept scrupu- 
lously clean. The air in the water is soon 
exhausted, and they should have fresh 
water every day. If possible, oftener in 
the summer, though once will do if the 
globe is fairly large, and this should be in 
proportion to the size of the fish. 

When the fish need fresh water they 
stand up on the tails with their mouths to 
the surface of the water and move slowly 
in that position, generally making a bub- 
bling sound. 

When gold fish are kept for breeding 
purposes, they must not be handled or 
disturbed, but otherwise taking them in 
the hand does not injure them if due care 
be exercised. 

Gold fish need feeding when in captivity. 

Packets of fishes' food, chiefly consisting 
of dried ant's eggs, can be procured from 
any bird store. They require only a very 
little once a day, or they will live on 
vermicelli, but this clouds the water and 
spoils the appearance of the globe. When 
putting fresh water into the globe, let 
it dash in from a height, so that plenty 
of air gets in too, and let the fish have a 
handful of shells or small stones. Never 
buy a fish unless the fins are erect and 
fully spread. 

Directly the fish is out of health, the 
fins keep closing till it dies, when tbe'y 
are quite shut up against the body. ' 



Small worms are an excellent food for 
them. 



TO KEEP HENS. 

THE HOUSES.— Hens can be kept in 
a wired run at the end of a small garden. 
Every run should have a shed; a felt roof 
on fixed supports will do. It should be 
placed to face the sun, and have fine 
dust spread under for the fowls to cleanse 
their feathers in, and also gravel neces- 
sary to their health, and lime in some 
shape to form the egg shells. This ben 
house and yard to be kept clean. Grass 
is good for fowls, although they scratch 
and destroy it quickly. Overcrowding a 
small yard is a danger to be avoided, or 
fowls will soon become unhealthy. 

TO FEED HENS.— Fowls are to be 
regularly and liberally fed. Give them a 
morning meal of household scraps, boiled 
potato peelings, and buckwheat, barley or 
corn. Crushed wheat and corn at mid- 
day and evening. In winter two good 
meals are sufficient, as the fowls go early 
to roost. Crushed oyster shell is kept 
always in a small box to ensure strong 
egg-shells, and broken flints for digestive 
purposes. They eat greedily any out- 
side cabbages or lettuce leaves, but these 
should be tied in a bunch so they can 
pick at them. 

EGGS AND HATCHING.— Hens, if 

not too fat, can be made to lay early by 
good feeding and warm houses. 

Watch the best hens, so to mark their 
eggs. Reject for setting those eggs hav- 
ing any weakness, as they would likely 
break and soil the nest, besides it encour- 
ages the hen to eat the eggs. 

Keep the eggs for setting in a box in a 
cool place, but they must not be stale. 

Do not let the hens sit in the hen house 
where other fowls are kept, as they will 
be disturbed. Remove them to a quiet 
place. A box of clean straw, rammed 
down tight, a foot or so thick, is a good 
nest. 

Let every sitter have a clean new-made 
nest, and never let it be used again with- 
out washing. Be sure it is well filled with 
fresh straw, or the hen may break the 
eggs by jumping on them. When the nest 
is ready, put the hen on with four nest 
or hard-boiled eggs under each, and keep 
them in the dark till they become used to 
their new home. Feed them only once a 
day, and when they become accustomed to 
returning to their nests, then give them the 
eggs, from nine to thirteen, according to 
size. 

They require fresh water, a good meal 
of barley once a day, and plenty of food. 
The eggs should hatch in three days. The 
more the hatching is left to nature the 
better, but sometimes they need assistance. 



MANNA IS THE NATURAL PRODUCT OP THE ASH. 



169 



PARROTS— CARE OF. 

WHERE TO KEEP THEM.— Hang 
the cage, which should be large and airy, 
in the sitting room, where the bird will 
not be lonesome. Do not put it in a 
draught. Take down the cage when the 
gas is lit, as the fumes rise. Cover the 
cage at night if the weather is cold. 

Parrots like plenty of sunshine. 

PLAYTHINGS.— If a parrot is given 
something to play with, it will not de- 
stroy its cage. An empty cotton reel is a 
good thing, as it can easily be rolled 
about and bitten. 

TEACHING. — A parrot must be treated 
kindly if you want it to learn to talk. 
Speak the words distinctly that you want 
it to repeat. It will learn more quickly if 
taught in the dark. Never tease the bird 
nor speak crossly to it. 

CLEANLINESS.— Keep the cage per- 



fectly clean; put fresh sand or gravel at 
the bottom every morning. An iron nail 
in the water occasionally serves as a tonic. 
Scrub the perches regularly. 

FOOD,— Their regular food is hemp 
seed, oats, potatoes, corn and bread and 
milk. The diet should frequently be va- 
ried with green food, fruit, nuts, and 
crackers, of which they are very fond. 

FOOD TO BE AVOIDED.— Never give 
a parrot animal food, as this invariably 
causes disease. Parsley and bitter ale are 
both poisonous to parrots,. 

WATER.— Plenty of water, both for 
washing and drinking, should be given. 
Change the water once a day, and twice 
or thrice in hot weather. Give a tepid 
bath in winter, a cold one in summer. 

SICKNESS.— Should a parrot appear 
sickly in any way, keep it warm, change 
the food for a time, and give lukewarm 
water to bathe in. 



i;o 



MYRRH IS GUM RESIN, 



Floriculture and Gardening 



LONGEVITY OF PLANTS. 

Flowering plants are of two kinds: 
The limited and the unlimited. 

The limited are: 

Annuals, which start from the seed, 
blossom, bear fruit and die in one season. 
In botany the sign (1) is used. 

Biennials— These grow without flower- 
ing the first year, bear fruit and die the 
second year. The sign is 2. 

The unlimited — Perennials. Of unlim- 
ited existence, blossoming and bearing 
fruit every year and die from old age. 

PARTS OF FLOWERS.— If a flower 
has a pistil and stamens it is called a per- 
fect flower; if it lacks one or both it is 
imperfect, for these parts are necessary 
for reproduction. 

Double flowers do not produce seed; 
they are neutral; their essential organs 
are changed to petals. 

If a flower has a calyx, corolla, pistil 
and stamens it is a complete flower. 

The calyx is to protect the other parts 
of the flower, especially the bud. 

The corolla is the group of leaves within 
the calyx; its parts are called petals. 

The stamens are the male organs 
which produce the pollen for fertilizing 
the pistil. 

The pollen are cells for germinating, 
and consist of fine yellow grains. 

The pistil is the female organ, the most 
protected part of the flower. 

HOW TO SOW SEEDS.— They must 
be sown evenly in a fine soil, covered 
with earth and kept in a shady spot until 
the plant begins to appear. After this 
put them in the sunshine and do not give 
too much water. When they have grown 
about two inches high, transfer them to 
small pots. 

The following plants can be raised from 
seeds: Mignonette, asters, pinks, wall- 
flower, candy tuft, poppy flower, petunias, 
pansies and sweet peas; also the climbers, 
morning glories and nasturtiums. 

TO SOW WINDOW GARDEN 
SEEDS.— Prepare the box with the same 
soil as for potting and make half an inch 
deep ridge through the centre. Sprinkle 
the seed in this furrow and press down 
firmly with a piece of wood. Water 
gently through a small watering pot. 

TO PLANT SLIPS.— Root them in 
sand, water plentifully and keep in a 
shady, cool place. 



TO PLANT BULBS.— Hyacinths and 
other bulbs can be planted in light, sandy 
soil; keep them in a dark, cool, moist 
place, water scantily until the roots have 
grown strong. Then force them into 
bloom by sunshine and warmth. When 
hyacinths are cultivated in glasses, be 
careful the bulb does not touch the water. 

SUMMER BULBS TO STORE.— All 

dahlias, begonias, gladioli, etc., must be 
taken up the end of October, or earlier if 
the weather is very cold. Shake the roots 
free from soil, label each one, so as to 
remember the color.?, and hang them in an 
airy place. In about eight days' time, 
cut off the leaves, spread for two weeks 
longer and then store in a cool, dry place 
in bags or boxes. They will rot if frost 
touches them, so it is right to cover well 
over in severe weather. 

SOIL FOR POTTING.— A good mix- 
ture for house plants is: one part sand, 
one part leaf mould, one part peat, one 
part manure and two parts garden mould. 
If leaf mould is unattainable, use an extra 
part of manure, and instead of peat, use 
one extra part garden mould. Have the 
soil sufliciently porous to admit the cir- 
culation of air. 

A good soil can be bought at any 
florist's. 

BUDDING.— Grafts of this description 
present the following characters: They 
consist in raising an eye or bud with a 
piece of the bark and wood, and trans- 
ferring it to another part of the same 
plant or any other plant of the same 
species. 

Budding is chiefly employed on youn.? 
shoots or trees from one to five years' old, 
which have a smooth, thin and tender 
bark. 

CUTTINGS.— Newly formed not too 
soft shoots, brittle enough to snap off 
cleanly, are the best for cuttings, and 
root them in clean sand. 

Never waste cuttings, however small 
they may be; push them down in moist 
sand and they will soon root. 

GRAFTING.— In order to graft select 
a suitable stock, its height being in ac- 
cordance to the purpose for which it 'S 
intended, also a graft taken from an early 
branch of the previous year's wood, which 
has ripened under an August sun so that 
the wood has been thoroughly constituted 
before the early frosts set in. 



OPIUM IS THE JUICE OP THE WHITE POPPY. 



171 



The graft selected must be in the same 
state of vegetation as the intended stock, 
otherwise the latter intercepts the de- 
scent of the pulpy sap which forms the 
bulging on the stem observable in so many 
trees. 

CLEFT OR TONGUE GRAFTING. 

— Cut the crown of the stock across and 
make a lengthwise wedge-shaped slit about 
four inches long, according to the size and 
vigor of the intended graft. Keep this 
cleft open by a wooden wedge until the 
scion is prepared. Select the scion with 
a bud at the summit, and shape the lower 
part with a knife so it fits into the slit. 
Incline it slightly inwards with the lower 
extremity slightly projecting in order that 
the inner bark of the graft and stock may 
be in direct contact with each other. Bind 
the whole and cover from top to bottom 
with clay or grafting paste. 

TERMS USED IN GRAFTING.— The 
term "stock" or "subject" is applied to 
the tree on which the operation is per- 
formed. The "graft" and sometimes 
"scion" to the portion of the branch whicu 
is implanted in it. 

TO GATHER FLOWER SEEDS.— 
These should always be gathered on a 
perfectly tine day, and never before they 
are perfectly ripe. The seeds should be 
perfectly formed, or they will not come to 
anything and be useless. Each kind of 
•seed should be gathered separately, and 
at once put into an open box for a day 
to dry thoroughly. 

TO WATER PLANTS.— These, espe- 
cially window gardens, should be watered 
after sundown, spraying both over and 
under the leaves. A little water in the 
early morning before the sun strikes the 
plants will keep them fresh all day, but 
never overwater, just enough to keep the 
soil moderately moist. Soft wooded plants, 
such as begonias, need an extra supply. 
Syringe the leaves often, but be careful 
not to injure the flowers. 

TO WATER HOUSE PLANTS.— Only 
water them when the soil is dry and light; 
have the water the same temperature as 
the room. Sprinkle the leaves to keep 
them free of dust, and give the plants 
plenty of fresh air. Don't let the pots 
stand in water, soak the earth thoroughly 
when watering, then drain off the saucers. 
Rainwater is best, if procurable. Cold 
water checks the growth of the flowers. 

ROOM PLANTS.— Many ill-use their 
costly palms and ferns through ignorance, 
neglect and want of care. If a palm is 
dry at the roots,, or dying through being 
placed in a draught, it wants re-potting; 
if a fern requires nourishment or more 
watering to re-pot it is the only idea. 
Many a valuable plant has been re-potted 
to death. 



CARE OF HOUSE PLANTS.— The 
soil round pot plants should be loosened 
once a week. This will allow the air to 
reach the roots. Always have the water 
tegid for watering them in cold weather. 

WHERE TO KEEP HOUSE 

PLANTS.— The best place for these as 
regards heat, is in a room adjoining the 
one where the fire is, the rooms to be con- 
nected with open doors, so that the 
warmth will be suflBciently diffused. 

The average plants get along best where 
there is a night temperature of from 45 
to 60 degrees at the plant stand. In the 
daytime it may be 10 to 15 degrees 
warmer. 

Plants need plenty of air, but should 
not be placed in a draught. A constant 
change of temperature weakens them. Do 
not keep them in dark corners; give them 
a turn at the window every day or so. 

TO TRIM PLANTS.— Cut off the top 
of the plant or pinch off the upper buds 
as soon as they appear, to prevent a tall, 
scraggy gro'^yth; this insures full and rich, 
flowers, by preventing the plant from 
blossoming too soon. 

Plants will always lean toward the 
strongest light. 

FROZEN PLANTS. — When plants 
have been frost bitten, take them out of 
the light and put them in a cool place. 
Cut off all the blackened parts and give 
the plants plenty of water. Continue this 
treatment until new buds appear, then 
return them gradually to their former 
place and warmth. 

COFFEE AND TEA FOR PLANTS. 
—Cold tea is said to be an excellent stimu- 
lant for plants, geraniums in particular. 

Coffee grounds can be utilized as a 
manure for the garden. 

MANURE FOR PLANTS.— When giv- 
ing manure of any kind, first soak the 
earth thoroughly with lukewarm water. 

TO KEEP ANTS FROM PLANTS.— 
Lay a circle of chalk or lime around the 
plant. 

AMMONIA FOR PLANTS.— Am- 
monia is an excellent stimulate for grow- 
ing flowers. A few drops twice a week 
in a can of rainwater will make fuchsias, 
geraniums and other flowers bloom freely. 
Do not give the ammoniated water too 
often or the plants will bloom too rapidly. 

TO ERADICATE WEEDS.— Take 
one pound of sulphur, the same quantity 
of lime and dissolve all in two gallons of 
water. Pour this water onto weeds of 
any kind and it will destroy them. 

SOAP SUDS FOR GARDENS.— 
Those who have gardens should not throw 
away soapsuds, as they are usefiil manure 
for small shrubs and plants. 



172 



PITCH IS INSPISSATED TAE DRAWN PROM PINES, 



FLOWERS FOR INVALIDS.— If you 

wish, the flowers to be appreciated, send 
them in the morning and never commit 
the blunder of sending pure white flowers 
into a sick room. They suggest too 
strongly of the last, long sleep. 

SODA FOR FLOWERS.— To keep 
flowers fresh, put a pinch, of soda in the 
water. 

TO REMOVE WORMS FROM 
FLOWER POTS.— Dissolve a teaspoonful 
of lime in a gallon of cold water and 
pour a little on the earth around the 
plant. The worms will then come to the 
surface, and can be removed. 

TO REVIVE CUT FLOWERS.— Put 
the stems into very hot water, and leave 
to get cold. Then cut off the ends of 
the stems, slit up the stalks of the flowers 
and place them in fresh water, this re- 
vives them after they have been packed. 

TO PRESERVE FRESH FLOWERS. 
— Put a good quantity of fresh water, 
not too cold, in a dish or vase; put in this 
a little clean mould or earth and a few 
saffron leaves. Place some long stemmed 
freshly cut flowers into this. Do not 
change the water, and if possible keep 
the dish and all under a large glass bell 
and the flowers may be preserved for 
weeks in all their natural beauty and 
fragrance. Fresh flowers should have 
their stems trimmed every evening. 

TO BLOOM FLOWERS IN WINTER. 
— Select the most perfect buds, just before 
they are ready to open. Cut them off the 
bush with a pair of scissors, leaving, if 
possible, a three inch length stem on 
each; nor do not break nor scar this 
stem. Immediately after the flowers are 
cut, seal the end of the stem with Spanish 
wax. Lay the flowers away in a cool, 
dry room where they will remain undis- 
turbed, and when the buds are a little 
shrunk wrap each one up separately in 
a piece of white paper, perfectly clean 
and dry, being careful not to crush any 
pait of the bud. Then lock all the buds 
up lu a dry box or drawer, one not to 
toxich the other. When the flowers are 
required to bloom, take them out over 
night Or early in the morning, and cut 
off their ends or stems. Have ready a 
vase of cool, but not cold, water, in 
which put a little nitre or salt. Keep the 
vase in a warmish atmosphere, and the 
next morning or in the evening the buds 
will be seen to expand, the same as on 
their bushes, displaying their distinctive 
colorings and exhaling their most agree- 
able odors. These natural flowers are 
much stronger than those raised in hot 
houses, and command large sums of money 
for use at balls and suppers, and there- 
fore are useful for those who raise plants 
for a living. 



OLD LEAVES. — These should be 
picked up, and either thrown away or 
burned, for if they are left on the pots 
they are apt to harbor insects and injure 
the plants. Dead blossoms and leaves 
left on plants draw strength from the 
plant itself that would otherwise be used 
to form fresh flowers. 

CALLA LILIES.— These shauld not be 
allowed to bloom all together; some of 
the plants should be retarded so as to keep 
them in a succession of bloom. For this 
remove them to a cooler room and water 
them less. 

DAHLIAS.— Nitrate of soda will pro- 
mote the growth of dahlias, but only use 
it when the buds are forming. Used in 
a liquid state, one ounce to a gallon of 
water. 

FUCHSIAS.— These will grow in al- 
most any soil. Garden loam and leaf 
mould in equal proportions with some 
broken charcoal and sand do very well. 
It is better to feed them with manure- 
water than to mix dung with the soil. 
After they are well rooted, they should 
not be watered with clear water. A regu- 
lar moist, genial temperature must be 
maintained during the entire period of 
growth. Fuchsias are excellently adapted 
to window-gardening. 

GERANIUM.— This is a hardy plant, 
having several species, the rose geranium 
being the handsomest. They need very 
little care and watering when dry. 

They can be left out quite late in the 
fall, covering with newspaper of a chilly 
night. To keep them over winter, take 
from the ground and hang the roots in 
a cellar or other similar place, and leave 
them until late spring; then replant, cut- 
tiug dowu the slips. They grow very 
easily. 

MIGNONETTE.— This flower has a 
great objection to transplanting; it is 
a most satisfactory flower for window 
gardening. There are two kinds, the com- 
mon "sweet" and the "perfection," which 
is larger. This is highly perfumed and 
grows in small spirals with plenty of 
leaves. 

NASTURTIUMS. — Treat these the 
same as sweet peas, or they can be made 
to grow in a pan, box or a larger pot, 
shifting them into other pots after they 
have grown three or four inches. 

ROSES.— Roses are apt to be affected 
with mildew, aphis and slug, but these 
can be battled with if persevering. Apply 
hellebore under the leaves with a bellows 
to scatter the slug, or chop some tobacco 
stems fine, scatter them about the roots 
or burn them in a pan under the bushes. 
Keep the earth well worked and water 
thoroughly two or three times a week. 



EAISINS ARE RIPE GRAPES DRIED IN" THE SUN" OR OVEN". 



173 



PANSIES.— Sow them early in the fall 
in a bed of fine, well-pulverized soil, 
having the seeds covered no more than 
four times their size with earth; press 
down firmly. After two or three leaves 
have grown transplant them two inches 
apart, and cover during the very cold 
weather. 

They may also be sown in the spring, 
in a 60 degree temperature. Plant them 
in shallow boxes, and transplant one inch 
apart into other boxes after two or three 
leaves have appeared. The best soil for 
them is moist and loaming. Keep them 
out of the very hot sun. 

PETUNIAS.— Sow these in shallow 
boxes two inches deep, at a temperature 
of 60 to 70 degrees. The seeds should 
be covered four times their size, and in a 
light soil. Press down and water with 
a fine watering pot, not allowing them 
to get dry. After two or three leaves have 
appeared transplant them one inch apart 
and then plant in the ground when all 
danger from frost has disappeared. 

Should large pot plants be desired then 
sow them in two inch pots, and when these 
fill up with roots, change them into larger 
pots. 

' SWEET PEAS.— Unless these are sown 
early they do not come into bloom till 

, quite late in the summer. Place three 
or four in a pot about three and a half 
inches across. Use a compose of loam 
and leaf soil. 

VIOLETS TO SOW.— The seeds can 
be sown either in the fall or spring, cover- 
ing them not deeper than four times their 
size and transplant when two or three 
leaves have appeared. If sown in the fall 
they must then be transplanted into cold 
frames about two inches apart and cov- 
ered over during very cold weather, then 
plant out when frost has disappeared. 
They should be protected from the hot 
sun. Moist soil is best for them. 

TO KEEP VIOLETS FRESH.— A 
corsage bouquet of violets may be worn 
several times and still keep fresh if the 
stems are wrapped in a thin fringe of 
wadding that has been dipped in salt and 
water and then rolled in tinfoil. When 
the flowers are not being worn keep them 
in a cool place or room, with the stems 
in a glass of salt and water, and cover 
the flowers with tissue paper to exclude 
the air. 

FERNS. — Potted ferns need daily wa- 
tering, except in winter, for they will 
soon die if dirt is allowed to accumulate 
on them. A fine syringe is best, or use 
a can with a fine nose and hold it high 
above them. Ferns take in almost as 
much moisture through their leaves as 
through their roots. 

Give a little weak liquid manure, luke- 



warm tea or fertilizer once a week, but 
do not touch the fronds. The best soil 
iS one part each of good loam and leaf 
mould, two parts sand and a little cocoa- 
nut fibre. Ferns do not need sun, but 
plenty of light and fresh air. 

PALMS. — Palms have for a long time 
been one of our most popular room plants, 
and we must take the precaution to se- 
lect proper varieties and those in suitable 
conditions. 

TO PURCHASE.— Let them be ob- 
tained from a respectable florist who keeps 
his plants in a fairly cool hothouse a week 
or two before sale. This avoids a sudden 
check from chills, as our rooms are cooler 
than the conservatory. There are many 
kinds to select from, viz., the cabbage 
palm, the cocoanut palm, the fan palm, 
etc. 

TO KEEP.— Keep the plants free from 
dust, gently wipe over with a sponge 
once a week and apply equal parts of milk 
and water with a small sponge to the 
leaves. This will improve the appear- 
ance and prevent them turning brown. 
The palm requires a considerable amount 
of water. 

They should be grown in small pots, 
for they thrive better so and are easier 
to handle. 

REPOTTING.— As a rule, palms are 
overpotted. If the crown of roots does 
push up more and more, even making it 
impossible to water effectually from the 
surface, yet they do not need repotting, 
and if this crown is covered the plant 
would rot close t© the soil. They can 
scarcely be potted too firmly. 

MANURE. — A liquid food made by dis- 
solving two ounces of guano in a gallon 
of water and applied once a fortnight 
during spring and summer will be a 
great help. / 

Palms require a close aud stiff loami 
and should have good drainage. 

THE RUBBER PLANT.— This is one 
of the fig family, keeps in good form, but 
is apt to lose its lower leaves with age. 
They do not require too much water, 
but their foliage must be kept clean. 
If allowed to get too dry the lower leaves 
will soon drop off. The new peculiar 
twisted leaf growing at the top must not 
be injured; never allow this to be bruised 
or affected by a drop of cold water. 

These plants need a rather peaty and 
open compost. 

CARE OP RUBBER PLANTS.— To 
give the waxlike appearance to a rubber 
plant sponge it once a week with tobaeeo 
juice. Pour water over a plug of tobac- 
co until the water becomes a deep brown, 
then wipe the leaves with a sponge dipped 
in the juice. A teaspoouful of castor 
oil should be poured in a small trench 
dug around the roots about every two 



174 



SAESAPAEILLA IS THE ROOT OF A PERUVIAN PLANT. 



or three weeks. Equal parts of milk and 
water applied with a small sponge will 
also make the leaves look like wax and 
will also prevent them turning brown. 

TO BECOME A FLORIST.— There 
is much training needed for one to be- 
come a florist. Wiring flowers is an 
art in itself, as also is mossing. 

Selection for a regular course of study: 

Modes of wiring different flowers. 

Mossing. 

Covering small frames with leaves. 

Buttonholes. 

Sprays. 

Plain wreaths and crosses. 

The same, but elaborate. 

Baskets, plain and elaborate. 

Mounting and wiring flowers for bou- 
quets. 

Plain and elaborate dinner table decor- 
ations. 



Wall, staircase and buffet decorations. 

Giving of estimates. 

If you are growing suflScient flowers 
for the market make arrangements with 
a city florist, telling him how many times 
a week he may expect flowers and how 
many weeks they are likely to continue. 

Learn how to pack the goods, ascertain 
the hours of the trains; an early morninsr 
or a late evening one is the best. 

In every package put your name and 
address and the invoices, keeping a copy. 

THE PRICE will be the current mar- 
ket one, varying according to supply and 
demand. It is important to know which 
flowers are the best to rear; some blossoms 
are too delicate to pack, others ineffective 
for decorations and others fade too quick- 
ly, or have some other characteristics 
which makes them a bad speculation. 



SASSAFRAS IS ^VOOD OP THE LAUREL-KIND. 



175 



Etiquette 



VOCABULARY OF FRENCH 
TERMS USED ON SOCIAL OCCA- 
SIONS. — Bal masque — A masquerade 
ball. 

Bal poudrg — Ladies especially are in- 
vited to appear with powdered hair. 

Conversazione — A conversational enter- 
tainment. 

Carte blanche — Giving full power to 
act. 

Cotillion — The German or Cotillion 
dance. 

Costume de rigueur — Full evening dress 
for gentlemen. 

D§but — A first appearance. 

D§jeuner — Breakfast or early luncheon. 

Demi-toilette — Afternoon or evening 
dress suitable for dinners or small enter- 
tainments. 

Fete champgtre — A garden party or 
picnic. 

Grande toilette — Full evening dress for 
ladies. 

Nom de plume — An assumed literary 
name. 

Peignoir — Wrapper worn in one's room. 

Robe de chambre — Morning dress for 
one's room. 

R. S. V. P. (repondez s'il vous plait)— 
Please answer. 

Soir§e — An evening entertainment. 

Soiree dansante— Dancing party. 

Soiree musicale — Musical party. 

Soirge literaire— Literary evening party. 

BUSINESS CALLS.— Business of rari- 

ous sorts constantly compels us to call 
ou people with whom we do not visit. 
In this case we must remember that this 
call has nothing in common with a social 
one. Many ladies prefer to call and 
inquire the character of a servant rather 
than write for it. In this case the call 
should either be made in the morning or 
immediately after lunch — before the reg- 
ular hour for calling has begun. 

Ask if the lady of the house is at 
home, and hand your visiting card _ to 
the servant who opens the door, saying 
that you wish to see the mistress on busi- 
ness. You should make your call as 
brief as possible, and keep only to the 
business which has brought you to see 
ter 

If you call on a stranger to ask for 
subscriptions for fairs, churches or local 
charities, etc., you can either go in your- 
self or send your card with the sub- 
scription list of the charity or object you 
are asking money for. In any case let 



your call be as brief fts possible, and 
always call in the morning or at an horn- 
when the lady of the house is not likely, 
to -be engaged with social duties. 

When anyone calls on business it is 
usual to have them shown into the morn- 
ing room, library or dining room, unless 
there is a special room set apart for this 
purpose. 

VISITING CARDS.— Use pure white 
cards, thick or thin, according to fashion, 
which varies. The type should be copper 
plate and perfectly plain. The name must 
be printed in script exactly in the centre of 
the card, and the address in the left hand 
corner at the bottom. 

In case of a temporary address, it can 
be added in the bottom right hand corner 
of the card in pencil. 

The card of a married lady usually gives 
her husband's name with the prefix "Mrs." 
attached. When a wife has sufficient per- 
sonal importance to be known separate 
from her husband, then she can use her 
own name, with Mrs. attached. 

If the lady's husband is the head of the 
family she should use her surname alone, 
without any prefix ; if he is a younger 
son or his father still living, she should 
use her husband's Christian name before 
her surname. 

Husbands' and wives' names are no 
longer printed together on the same card; 
it is very old-fashioned. 

A wife in taking her husband's name 
does not take his title ; she must not call 

herself Mrs. Dr , Mrs. Rev. , etc. 

Unmarried ladies should only put their 
name and Christan name, not "Miss," but 
married ladies always use the prefix 
"Mrs." 

A lady should always be scrupulously 
watchful of her card basket, for these are 
the vouchers of her social standing. The 
signification of the corners of cards turned 
down are : 

Delivered in person — Right hand end 
turned down. 

Visitor — Right hand upper comer. 

P. P. 0. — Right hand lower corner. 

Congratulation — Left hand upper corner. 

Condolence — Left hand lower corner. 

When a lady has an "at home" day, it 
must be printed on her visiting card, ilk 
the opposite comer to the address. 

Card leaving after an entertainment. — 
After receiving hospitality from friends, 
hasten to acknowledge it by a call, which 
should be made as soon after the enter- 



176 



THE JUICE OF THE TAPIOCA TREE IS POISONOUS. 



tainment as possible. After a ball or din- 
■ner party return the call within a week. 
If it has been a very formal entertain- 
ment, cards can be left the day after. In 
the case of a dinner, inquire whether the 
mistress of the house is home, even if 
the call is made the following day. 

Always call after a large reception, pri- 
vate theatricals or an amateur concert, and 
even if the invitation has not been ac- 
cepted the call should be made just the 
same. Never leave a call of this kind un- 
paid after a week or ten days at latest. 
It is not only rude to the hostess, but also 
betrays ignorance of the usages of good 
Bociety. 

If the hostess has an "at home" day, 
call the first of these that occur after you 
have received her hospitality. If you have 
been invited by a new acquaintance, be 
careful to make a caii within as few days 
as possible after the entertainment. It 
shows great politeness. 

INVITATIONS. — An invitation to 
several members of the same family may 
be sent in the one envelope or separately. 
The forms are the same, the daughters 
can be included in one invitation, and un- 
married sons living at home in another. 

Acceptances and regrets are addressed to 
the hostess. It is courtesy to reply at 
once to invitations requesting an answer, 
not later than two days after being re- 
ceived; these can be sent through the mail, 
although the invitation should have come 
through a messenger. 

Never use an abbreviation in an invita- 
tion, all the words should be written out. 
Invitations to a reception or wedding to 
be sent out from ten to twenty days in 
advance ; to a dancing party or ball the 
same time, or according to the impor- 
tance of the occasion. Invitations to din- 
ner may be issued from ten to twenty days 
in advance and must always be answered. 

INTRO DUCTIONS. — Introductions 
should always be most carefully made, and 
a person cannot exercise too much tact 
when about to introduce one party to an- 
other. Find out first whether the acquaint- 
ance is desired on both sides, as this will 
obviate all the disagreeable features of 
having a person introduced whom he or she 
may possibly have been avoiding. 

STATIONS IN LIFE.— When two peo- 
ple are of different station in life, the one 
ranking the highest should be the one to 
be consulted before making an introduction, 
and it should be made in this way : "Mrs. 

D , may I introduce Miss S. to you?" 

or, "May I present Miss S?" 

Thus, the ladv in the lower station is 
introduced to the lady of the higher; this 
lady can proffer her hand as an act of 
friendliness, the other lady not offering 
hers first, but merely bow, this being the 
usual greeting. 



Ladies as a general rule bow to one an- 
other when introduced, unless they have 
known each other by sight for some time, 
and have been waiting for the opportu- 
nity to become acquainted, then a bow 
would be too formal. 

To introduce a gentleman. — When a gen- 
tleman is introduced to a lady she must 
be the first one to offer her hand, as he is 
the one to be introduced to her, not her to 
him. 

Never introduce a lady to a gentleman, 
this is a breach of etiquette. 

SALUTATIONS.— There are several 

forms of greeting ; there is a bow, a hand 
shake, a kiss. Thei'e is also the words of 
address, "Good morning," "Good evening," 
How do you do?" "I am pleased to see 
you," etc. 

THE BOW.— It is a lady's privilege to 
bow first, and while walking should not 
recognize a gentleman by any other saluta- 
tion, unless on very friendly terms, or the 
desire to speak on some certain matter. 
A lady must never show demonstration in 
her salutes. Gentlemen should always bow 
to each other when passing, and a bow 
should always be returned. 

HAND SHAKING.— When shaking a 
person's hand, do not just offer the tip 
of the fingers, or a limp hand, but present 
a cordial, although not over vigorous grasp. 
A lady must offer her hand first to a gen- 
tleman, and he must take it as soon as 
she makes the advance. 

The right hand is the proper one to ex- 
tend; if impossible, offer an apology. A 
host and hostess must extend a welcom- 
ing hand to all their guests. It is not 
necessary to take off one's glove when 
shaking hands, except when a heavy one is 
worn. 

It is well for both parties to rise when 
shaking hands. 

THE KISS.— For sanitary and other 
reasons the custom of kissing should be 
abolished except among one's most inti- 
mate friends and relatives. 

It is improper to kiss in public streets 
and conveyances, although near relatives 
may perhaps be permitted to kiss one an- 
other, especially when parting. Kissing 
should be either on the cheek or forehead. 

CALLING. — Calls are generally of 
friendship, business, ceremony, condolence 
or congratulation. There are both morn- 
ing and evening calls. Never pay a call 
before noon unless on urgent business ; the 
morning call embraces all visits made be- 
fore the dinner hour. The most fashion- 
able time is between three and five, and 
never later than six. An evening call is 
between eight and nine. 

A lady when calling may bring a stran- 
ger with her, but a gentleman must not 
take this liberty. 

Calls from people living in the country 



AN" ACORN BECOMES A PIVE-FOOT HIGH OAK IN" 24 TEARS. 



177 



are expected to be longer than those from 
the city. During an informal morning call 
a lady may continue any sewing she may 
have in her hand at the time. 

It is not customary in cities to offer 
refreshments to callers, but in the country 
it is hospitable to do so. 

Should the person upon whom you have 
called be prepared to go out, do not pro- 
long the visit. 

A lady should never remove her hat 
during a formal call ; if on a friendly one, 
she must wait for an invitation. 

Should other callers be announced, as 
soon as the bustle of their arrival is over 
take leave of the lady of the house, bow 
to the visitors and retire quietly, unless 
asked to remain longer by the hostess. 

CONVERSATION. — Conversation is 
the highest order of entertainment, then 
comes music, and dancing last. 

Those matters which are of interest to 
the persons addressed should be the sub- 
ject of conversation, and not one's own 
affairs. Conversation should in company 
be on general topics ; avoid all discussions 
on religion, politics, family matters, pro- 
fessional subjects or long, uninteresting 
stories. 

Modulate the voice to the proximity of 
the person addressed, nor do not assume a 
dictatorial manner. Do not interrupt others 
in conversation, even if they have too much 
to say. Slang is low and coarse, and when 
speaking, speak naturally. 

GARDEN PARTY— HOW TO GIVE A. 

THE INVITATIONS.— Good tact is 
required when the hostess is sending out 
her invitation cards, for in a country place 
every one with whom she is acquainted 
will expect to be invited. The cards are 
generally sent out about three weeks be- 
forehand in the name of the hostess. At 
home cards are used for this purpose, with 
the hour and date printed in one corner, 
and "Garden Party" in the other. The 
time is usually from 3.30 to 6,30, or from 
4 to 7. 

CARRIAGES. — For the convenience of 
guests who come by train, the hostess will 
see that there are conveyances to bring 
them to the house on their arrival at the 
station, and stabling provided for the car- 
riage horses of those who drive from a 
long distance. The men servants must be 
provided with some refreshments. 

THE RECEPTION.— The host and 
hostess receive their guests in the garden 
as near the door as possible. Have plenty 
of garden seats and chairs scattered about 
the lawn and grounds, where the guests 
are likely to be. Flowers should be pro- 
fuse in the house, and especially on the 
tea table. If the day should turn out a 
little showery, the hostess would still ex- 



pect her guests; only a thoroughly wet day 
could possibly _postpone the party. 

THE MUSiC— At a large garden party 
a band of music is a great addition. If 
the musicians come from any distance 
they expect a conveyance to meet them at 
the station, and care must be taken that 
they are provided with refreshments dur- 
ing the afternoon. 

THE REFRESHMENTS.— If the 

party is a very large one, and the grounds 
are extensive, tea and refreshments can be 
served in a tent or marquee; but for a 
smaller party they are generally served in 
the dining room. The refreshments are 
of course in accordance with the party. 
If a large one, and they are to be served 
on the lawn, have tea and coffee, cham- 
pagne cup, claret cup, fruit, sandwiches, 
ices, various kinds of cake, bread and but- 
ter. If at a smaller party, and the re- 
freshments are served indoors, it would 
only be necessary to serve tea and coffee 
and the usual light refreshments of an at 
home. 

THE DRESS.— The usual dress to be 
worn is a smart afternoon attire. Ladies 
are to be dressed very daintily, muslins 
being the most suitable, looking pretty 
and effective on the lawn. 

THE DEPARTURE.— The guests 
should try and find the opportunity of 
wishing the hostess good-bye before leav- 
ing. Sometimes it is diflflcult to find her, 
as she may be busy with some otlier 
guests, but it is well to see her before 
leaving, if possible. The guests are gen- 
erally expected to leave a little before the 
hour stated on the cards. 

HINTS TO A GUEST.— Endeavor to 
time your arrival not to interfere with 
your friend's meal hours, and manage 
your luggage so that it shall be delivered 
without trouble to them. Do uot over- 
stay your welcome; do not even remain 
as long as you are asked to. 

Allow your hostess time to attend to her 
household duties. Observe the hour of 
the husband's return from business, and 
manage to find an excuse to absent your- 
self. Do not notice any friction in the 
household, and endeavor to keep the ma- 
chinery in regular motion by being most 
punctual yourself. Be thoughtful to your 
hostess, affectionate to her children, and 
courteous to the servants. When leaving 
bestow some little gift on each servant 
and send something to the cook. 

LUNCHEON PARTIES.— Invitations 
are given verbally or written informally. 
Guests should arrive ten minutes before 
the time fixed for luncheon; to be late is 
a gross breach of etiquette. 

No precedence is observed at luncheon; 
the guests sit where they please, and the 
host does not give his arm to any lady 



178 MICA IS DARK GRAY, OFTEN" DECOMPOSED BY THE ATMOSPHERE. 



present. When ready, the servant opens 
the door, and announces, "Luncheon is 
ready." rhis follows immediately after a 
bell has been rung. 

When the guests are seated, the ser- 
vants enter the room and hand around 
the different dishes, then stand behind 
the chairs to be ready to change plates, 
etc. The host dismisses the servants when 
the covers have been removed, and rings 
for them when ready for the next course; 
for this purpose he has a small handbell. 
Finger glasses are never used at lunch. 
Coffee is served in the drawing room. 
Hot milk and cream must be served with 
it for those who prefer it. Guests all leave 
the table together; they wait until every 
one has finished. Conversation should be 
general. Claret and sherry are the usual 
wines served, with water or mineral 
waters. Champagne, moselle or hock are 
also partaken of. Fruit concludes the 
luncheon. 

Soup is sometimes served, and fish. The 
menu is principally formed of entries, 
meats, vegetables, sweets, and occasionally 
a savory. 

The hostess sits at the top, the host at 
the end of the table, and the guests indis- 
criminately. Half an hour to an hour is 
the usual time for a luncheon. Guests 
generally leave about twenty minutes after 
luncheon. 

DINNER PARTIES.— Always answer 
an invitation to a dinner party, whether 
requested or not, within two days, and 
then let no excuse but sickness prevent 
its fulfilment; in this way the hostess may 
have an opportunity of inviting other 
guests in the place of those who decline. 

For formal dinners a grande toilette 
should be made, and full evening dress 
for gentlemen. The usual hour for a for- 
mal dinner is between 7 and 8, and never 
reach the house earlier than half an hour 
before dinner-time. Do not exclude young 
people whia a married couple are giving 
a dinner; they help to brighten the con- 
versation, and make the occasion more 
informal. The arrangement of the guests 
should be carefully considered beforehand 
by the host and hostess, and each gentle- 
man should be informed which lady he is 
to escort to the table; he offers her his left 
arm to conduct her to the dining room. 

To appear advantageously at the table, 
a person must be accustomed to the laws 
of etiquette and polite society. 

Where the dinner is informal, consist- 
ing of very close friends or relatives, af- 
ter seating the first four couples, then as- 
sign the others in their proper _ places 
without any discrimination; in this way 
each one will be likely to sit next to the 
one whose society they prefer. 

TO SERVE A DINNER.— Let the 
tabler-loth be clean niid spread perfectly 
smooth without wrinkles. Have the room 



tidy, well dusted and thoroughly venti- 
lated. 

The glasses must be polished as they 
are put on the table. 

The carvers must be sharpened. The 
edges of the small knives to be turned 
towards the plates. 

Sufficient plates and dishes for every 
course to be well warmed beforehand. 
Have a piece of bread on the left side of 
each person's plate or in the folded nap- 
kin. See that everything is ready before 
announcing that dinner is served. When 
waiting remove the soiled plates immedi- 
ately and as quietly as possible. Be slow 
rather than noisy. Remove everything 
relating to one course before the next is 
served. 

THE MENU, OR BILL OF FARE. 

— This is either printed or written taste- 
fully, and placed by the side of each 
plate. The followiug is the order in which 
the courses should be served: 
Huitres — Oysters. 
Potages — Soup. 
Hors d'oeuvre — Cold side dishes. 
Poissons — Fish. 
Hors d'oeuvre chauds — Hot side diphes, 
as patties, &c. 
Releves — Removes — .Joints roasted or 

boiled. 

Entries — Second course, small meats. 

Sorbet — Punch or Sherbet. 

Rotis — Roasts, poultry or game. 

Salade— Salad. 

Service froid — Cold service. 

Entremets chauds— Hot puddings 

Glaces — Ices, ice cream, &c. 

Dessert — Dessert, fruit, nuts, &C 

Cafe — Coffee with liqueurs. 

The wines are served with the courses. 

White wine with raw oysters, Madeira or 

sherry with soup, Rhine wine with fish, 

claret with entrees, champagne with 

roasts. Burgundy with game, champagne 

with the cold service and with the sweet 

dishes, port with dessert and cheese, 

liquors with coffee. 

TABLE ETIQUETTE.— For raw oy- 
sters use the smallest fork. The next 
larger for fish. 

The largest forks for the most substan- 
tial dishes. Convey the food to the mouth 
with the fork in the left hand. 

Use the spoon in the right hand. 

Lay the knife and fork one beside the 
other on the plate at the end of each 
course. The knife is to cut meat and not 
to convey food to the mouth. 

Pies and pastries are cut with a fork. 

Never let the hand touch the knife 
blade. 

Fish and fruit should be eaten with sil- 
ver knives and forks, or the former with 
a fork and piece of bread, never with a 
steel knife. Any errors can be corrected 
by watching the actions of well-bred per- 



CARBONATE OF LIME CONTAINS 56 PARTS OF OXYGEN. 



179 



sons and doing as they do. Bread should 
be broken with the fingers and never cut. 

Never use your own knife for butter; 
there is always a special knife for this. 

When desiring a plate to be replenished, 
do not send the knife aud fork, either lay 
them on a side dish, a piece of bread or 
hold them. 

Never drain a wine glass and never tilt 
a soup plate. Take a wine glass by the 
stem and not by the bowl. 

Never hesitate to take the last piece of 
bread or cake. 

When declining any wine merely rest the 
index finger on the glass when the servant 
is pouring it out. This is sufficient signal 
that none is desired. 

Never criticise a wine or anything of- 
fered nor find fault with any dish. 

Vegetables are eaten with a fork. 
Olives, cheese, asparagus, radishes and 
cresses may be eaten daintily with the 
fingers, also small game, although a fork 
would be better. 

The pits of fruits or grape skins should 
be quietly slipped into the hand from the 
mouth. Use finger glasses by wetting the 
ends of the fingers and lips and wipe with 
the napkin. 

Do not rise from the table before the 
other guests, unless you ask to be excused. 
When rising place the napkin carelessly 
beside the plate. It is ill-mannered to 
fold it. 

Talk low on all occasions in society, es- 
pecially at the dinner table. 

USE OF TABLE NAPKINS.— Guests 
at a meal do not fold their napkins on 
leaving the table, but simply place them 
on the table. Members of the family or 
visitors staying in the house, on the other 
hand, fold their napkins and place them 
in rings, in anticipation of using them at 
another meal. At breakfast and all other 
sit down meals napkins should always be 
used; at afternoon tea they are not needed, 
But plates must be offered instead. 

PICNICS. — The most important ingre- 
dients for a successful picnic are fine 
weather and pleasant people. 

WHAT TO WEAR.— Flimsy clothes, 
too fine to be spoiled, are a great mistake, 
especially at a river picnic. Nothing is 
better than a coat and skirt with a shirt 
waist; these are enough to keep out damp 
and withstand a shower, besides having 
the tidiest look. 

PROVISIONS.— These very often have 
to be carried in baskets or on a bicycle, 
therefore space must be economised. 

In hot weather it is better to take loaf 
bread, butter packed in a jam pot with a 
leaf on top and potted or canned meats, 
than sandwiches, which take up more 
room and dry easily. If sandwiches are 
taken let each one be wrapped in oiled 



paper. This will keep them fresh. Poul- 
try, fresh lettuces, fruits, cake, biscuits, 
etc., can be taken easily. 

A little light claret or unsweetened lem- 
onade is better to take than water, unless 
the picnic ground is close to a resort where 
soft drinks can be obtained. 

Mugs are the best to drink out of, they 
require no saucers and do not break 
easily. One person should be responsible 
for the salt, sugar, matches, corkscrews, 
etc. If tea is to be made by the picnickers 
take some methylated spirit. This is more 
satisfactory than collecting sticks. 

RECEPTION DAYS.— Every lady in 
fashionable society or in the quieter walks 
of social life should put one day in the 
week aside to be "at home." This will 
convenience herself and also her friends, 
who will know when to call and find her, 
as sometimes persons come from quite a 
distance and feel annoyed that she is ab- 
sent from home and their journey has 
been fruitless. 

AFTERNOON TEAS.— The lady's vis- 
iting card is sent out with the announce- 
ment of the day and hour noted on it. 
This requires no answer. The most fash- 
ionable refreshments are tea, coffee, choco- 
late, bouillon (the latter served in cups), 
light sandwiches, biscuits and sometimes 
an ice. The hour is generally from 3 to 
6 P. M. Afternoon dress for ladies and 
gentlemen is correct. The tea is usually 
served by the hostess or a lady friend 
aud later by the servants, this enabling 
her to join her guests. The time is spent 
in conversation. 

Any guest can leave after a call of 
half an hour. An afternoon tea may be 
made more formal if desired. 

THEATRE PARTIES. — Invitations 
for the theatre should be written and re- 
plied to in the third person. Seats must 
be invariably taken in advance and the 
invited guests should meet at the residence 
of the chaperon or one of the party, or, 
if more informal, at the theatre. In this 
case the tickets of admission are to be 
sent with the invitation. 

Always answer the note at once, so the 
person giving the party may know who is 
expected, for should you decline he can in- 
vite another friend to fill the vacant place. 

After the entertainment the guests may 
be invited to a supper at a suitable res- 
taurant, when the chaperon of the party 
presides. Avoid loud talking or anything 
that attracts the attention both during the 
performance and at the supper. 

The toilets must be suitable for the oc- 
casion, a more elaborate one for the opera 
than for the theatre. 

Should the weather be stormy, car- 
riages must be provided for the entire 
party, or some other mode of conveyance. 



180 



THE ROCKS MOST ABUNDANT ARE THE SILICIOUS. 



CHURCH WEDDING ETIQUETTE. 
—THE BRIDESMAIDS— The brides- 
maids precede the bride to church aud 
wait for her iu the porch. As the bride 
enters the church the bridesmaids must 
fall into procession behind her and follow 
her up the aisle in couples, the maid of 
honor alone, or they may come down from 
the chancel to meet her, walking in the 
same order. The maid of honor or first 
bridesmaid should receive the bride's 
glove, which she removes if the covering 
of the wedding ring finger be not turned 
back. 

THE USHERS, OR GROOMSMEN.— 

Their duties consist in reaching the church 
some time before the appointed hour for 
the ceremony. They see that everything 
is in order; they seat the arriving guests, 
giving the ladies their left arm to escort 
them up the aisle to their respective 
places. 

One of them gives the signal to the or- 
ganist when the bridal party enters. 
They usually join the bride at the church 
entrance. They then precede her up the 
aisle and take their places behind the 
groom. 

They follow the bridal couple out of the 
church with the bridesmaids, whom they 
hand into their carriages. 

THE BEST MAN.— The best man 
should be an unmarried brother, close 
relative or intimate friend of the groom. 
His duty is to relieve the bridegroom of 
all details regarding carriages, church ar- 
rangement, clergyman's fees, etc. He re- 
mains with the groom at the altar rail till 
the bride arrives. He attends to all mat- 
ters in place of the groom during the en- 
tire ceremonies. 

THE BRIDE.— The bride goes to 
church alone with her father or whoever 
is to give her away. In default of male 
relatives she may be given away by her 
mother. 

She should carry either a prayer book 
or a bouquet of appropriate white flowers. 
The bride walks up the aisle resting on 
the arm of her father or relative who 
gives her away. On reaching the bride- 
groom's side she may hand her bouquet 
and glove to her maid of honor, or one 
seam of the glove on the ring finger may 
be opened and turned back, and the ring 
will be easily put on. She stands on the 
left of the groom. She should make the 
responses in a firm, clear voice. It is ill- 
bred to look about or to behave with 
levity. 

The bride takes the groom's arm in leav- 
ing the church and drives home with him. 

THE BRIDEGROOM. — The bride- 
groom furnishes the wedding ring, a bou- 
quet to the bride, souvenirs to the brides- 
maids and ushers and the marriage fee 
to the clergyman. 



He, with his best man, awaits the bride 
at the chancel rails or at the entrance to 
the choir. When the service is over he 
gives her his arm to conduct her to the 
carriage, which he also enters, and they 
drive home together. 

The bride's father provides the carriage 
to take her to church, the bridegroom that 
to take her from it. 

WEDDING ANNIVERSARIES.— 

First, cotton; second, paper; third, leather; 
fourth, straw; fifth, wooden; seventh, 
wool; tenth, tin; twelfth, linen; fifteenth, 
glass; twentieth, china; twenty-fifth, sil- 
ver; thirtieth, pearl; fortieth, ruby; fif- 
tieth, golden; seventy-fifth, diamond. 

Invitations should be engraved or writ- 
ten on various kinds of stationery appro- 
priate for the occasion. 

For all occasions after the tin wedding 
no expensive gifts should be expected, ex- 
cept from very close relatives, and this 
may be mentioned on the invitation cards. 
"By request, no presents to be offered." 

WEDDING BREAKFAST.— Unless a 

regular breakfast is served, nothing at all 
substantial is offered; afternoon weddings 
have made this almost obsolete and put 
mere light refreshments in its place. Tea 
and coffee should be provided, bread and 
butter, green and other tasty sandwiches, 
cakes, the wedding cake, champagne or 
cups of various sorts, jellies, fruits and 
ices. People do not sit at the table, but 
about the room or remain standing. The 
wedding cake should have an important 
position on the table. 

WEDDING REHEARSALS.— A fash 
ionable wedding is rehearsed to the mi- 
nutest detail to insure its going without a 
hitch. Sometimes the bride has to enter 
the church several times before a perfect 
approach is reached. Sometimes various 
ways of grouping the guests are tried; no 
detail is left unrehearsed for fear that all 
should not be perfection on the eventful 
day. 

WEDDING GIFTS.- Place these in a 
room, apart, if possible, from the tea and 
the reception room, where the bride and 
bridegroom stand to receive the congratu- 
lations. The presents are best shown on 
fine white damask tablecloths. 

The best effect is to put all the jewels 
together, also the silver, glass, ornaments, 
etc., and dispose the needlework about in 
a tasteful manner. 

HINTS FOR WEDDING GIFTS.— On 

receiving a wedding invitation comes the 
thought of the wedding gift. This is a 
very pretty and graceful habit, and should 
not be discouraged as an extravagance. If 
you intend to send a wedding present as 
an expression of your love and good 
wishes, do so as soon as practicable after 



SILEX IS THE MOST ABUNDANT OF EARTHS. 



18.1 



the invite arrives. After the wedding is 
too late. 

The first presents are always the most 
appreciated. Always send the gift to the 
bride, with a card tied on to the article 
with pale blue or white ribbon. A per- 
sonal gift may be sent to the bride, but a 
present for use in her new home gives 
greater pleasure. 

Silver is always most acceptable. 

Cut glass and chinaware are the most 
useful gifts. 

Avoid anything that looks "shop," such 
as a vase or a lamp; instead let it be a 
dainty surprise according to your means. 
For instance, a curio of some sort, a piece 
of tapestry, or a quaint clock, if a luxury 
is to be purchased; if not, a simple gift 
with a character of its own. 

A piece of furniture is always welcomed. 
A fancy chair, table, a picture, a mirror, 
etc., all useful as well as ornamental. 

A nice gift and one in good taste should 
always be the best of its kind. 

FUNERALS.— Flowers should only be 
sent by relatives and near friends; these 
should be placed around the coffin. 

Persons attending a funeral are not ex- 
pected to be present much before the hour 
appointed; they should be received by some 
designated relative, but not any of the im- 
mediate family. The ladies of the house 
are not expected to notice the arrival of 
guests. , , _ 

Those who desire to view the body 
should do so before the services begin; 
always approach by the foot and leave by 
the head. 

While in the house of mournmg gentle- 
men must remove their hats. 

Loud talking or laughter would be a 
great rudeness. , ■,. 

Immediate members of the family should 
not appear in public until after the 
funeral. Ladies do not appear in church 
for at least a week after. 

Complimentary mourning does not re- 
quire seclusion. 

The pallbearers are selected from among 



the immediate friends of the deceased, 
and should be, as near as possible, the 
same age, intelligence and worth. Should 
the deceased have been a member of an 
orgnizatiou, immediate notification should 
be sent, so the members may have time to 
attend the funeral. 

CONDOLENCES. — When a death 
takes place among your circle of friends, 
you must at once either call or send a 
servant to inquire how the family are. 

Your visiting card and that of your hus- 
band must be left at the same time, with 
the words, "With sincere sympathy" or 
"With deepest sympathy" on the top over 
the printed name, and at the same time 
write a short note of condolence, which 
either leave by hand or send by post. 

Black-edged paper must invariably be 
used. 

If you live too far to send your cards by 
hand, it is quite correct to send them by 
post. 

If you are an intimate friend of the 
family, and have a closed carriage, it is 
usual to offer them the use of it for the 
funeral. 

If you wish to send flowers, select either 
white or purple ones; these are to be sent 
to the house the morning of the funeral 
with your visiting card attached and_ the 
words "With deepest sympathy" written 
on it. 

If you attend the funeral services you 
should be dressed entirely in black. 
Crape is never worn in complimentary 
mourning. 

Wait to call on the family who are in 
mourning till you receive their cards of 
thanks for kind inquiries. You should 
then call within a week or two, and though 
you need not dress in black, good taste dic- 
tates that bright, gay dressing should be 
avoided on this occasion. You should only 
make a short call, and unless your friend 
speaks of her sorrow, it is bad taste to 
allude to it, except in as few words as pos- 
sible of sympathy for her loss. 



182 



CLAY IS NEXT ABUNDANT TO SILEX. 



Physical Culture for Women 
and Girls 



DUMB BELL EXERCISES.— Wood 
dumb bells weighing three-quarters of 
a pound each should be used and these 
grasped very tightly. The monotony of 
exercising can be greatly overcome if a 
friend will kindly play a musical accom- 
paniment on any instrument and a quar- 
ter of an hour's daily practice will be 
found quite sufficient. 

Each exercise should be begun from the 
following position: 

Stand with the heels and knees together, 
body erect, head, shoulders and hips 
thrown back and the arms hanging by 
the sides. This is a valuable exercise in 
itself and is known as the attention posi- 
tion. 

EXERCISE 1.— Keep the body erect, 
draw the bells up under the arms until 
they touch the armpits, straighten the 
arms again by the sides, bring the bells 
up right and left with straight arms till 
they reach above the head and look up 
at the bells. Bring the arms down side- 
ways to attention position, then repeat 
in same order. 

EXERCISE 2.— Start with the bells 
above the head, bend forward at the 
waist without bending at the knees and 
at the same time bring down the bells 
right and left till they meet just above 
the instep, then straighten the body and 
raise the arms right and left without bend- 
ing them till the bells touch over the head. 
The palms of the hands should be to- 
wards the front during the whole of the 
exercise. 

EXERCISE 3.— Begin with the feet 
apart and body turned slightly to the 
left. Keep the arms straight, swing the 
bells down to the left across the front 
of the body and up to the right till they 
are once more alx)ve the head and the 
lody is turned to the right. Then re- 
verse the movements, swinging down to 
the right and up to the left. Look up 
at the bells when above the head. 

EXERCISE 4. — Commence with the 
belis above the head with the palms of 
the hands towards each other; now open 
the arms right and left till level with 
the shoulders, force the head back and 
lean back till the body forms a graceful 
curve, then raise the arms again and 
straighten the body. 



EXERCISE 5, — Begin once more with 
arms above the head and palms turned 
inwards, then step out to the left with 
the left foot and carry the arms to the 
right as far as possible, taking care not 
to let them drop lower than the shoul- 
ders. Bring back the left foot and raise 
the bells above the head; step out to the 
right with the right foot and carry the 
bells to the left. Close the feet and 
bring the bells above the head. Con- 
tinue these four movements, looking al- 
ways in the direction in which you step. 

EXERCISE 6.— Place the right bell 
on shoulder with the eibow on a level 
with the latt-3r and let the left arm hang 
by the side. Now swing down the right 
bell til! it hangs by the side and swing 
up the left sideways with a circular move- 
ment until it rests on the left shoul- 
der. Swing down the left and raise the 
right and continue this alternate move- 
ment, taking care to carry each bell well 
above the head each time before placing 
it on the shoulder. 

EXERCISE 7.— Start with the arms 
open right and left, the body and head 
erect. Bring the bells by bending thy 
arms onto the shoulders, then straighten 
the arms again; continue. The upper 
arms should be kept horizontal during 
this exercise. 

EXERCISE 8. — Begin once more with 
the feet together and the arms extended 
right and left, then bend slowly first right 
and then left at the waist. The arms 
must bend right and left along with the 
upper part of the body, but they are al- 
ways in a straight line with the shoulders. 

EXERCISE 9.— From the attention 
position raise the body slowly on the 
toes and bring the arms up till they are 
straightened out from the shoulder, lower 
the arms and body to attention; on toes 
again, and this time bring up the arms 
right and left till above the head, return 
to attention and repeat. 

EXERCISE 10.— This consists of the 
four following movements: (1.) Raise the 
left leg to the left, and bring the arms up 
sideways till level with the shoulders; (2.) 
return to attention position; (3.) raise the 
riirht lee: to the right and bring up the 
nrms as before; (4.) return again to atten- 
tion and repeat slowly. 



POEPHYRY IS STONE INTERMIXED WITH CRYSTALS. 



183 



TO STRAIGHTEN THE BACK— An 

important exercise is to lie perfectly flat 
on the floor with the toes fixed in the 
space under the sideboard or wardrobe, or 
the ankles held by another person. The 
hands should be on the hips, and the body 
should be raised slowly into a sitting posi- 
tion. This at first is exceedingly difficult 
and tiring, and for some weeks should not 
be repeated more than three times consec- 
utively. Afterwards it should be done 
four or five times, twice or three times a 
day. 

Another movement to strengthen the 
muscles of the back and the walls of the 
abdomen is to sit firmly on a stool with 
the knees rather far apart. Put a hand 
on each hip, and work the body round 
from the waist in a direction from right to 
left, stooping forward, and bending side- 
ways and backwards so as to make the 
circle in which the head rotates as large 
as possible. All the body should be fixed 
except the waist. 

BREATHING.— Cultivate the habit of 
breathing through the nose and taking 
deep breaths. If this habit was universal, 
there is little doubt that pulmonary affec- 
tions would be decreased one-half. 

An English physician calls attention to 
this fact, that deep and forced respira- 
tions will keep the entire body in a glow in 
the coldest weather. 

TO DEVELOP THE FIGURE.— 
This exercise will help to expand the chest 
and develop the figure. Stand perfectly 
erect, with the head and shoulders well 
back, and take in a deep, long breath, 
holding it as long as possible, then gradu- 
ally let it go. Repeat this for ten min- 
utes night and morning. Allow no pres- 
ure whatever on the bust; avoid tight 
lacing and padding, which causes undue 
heat, relaxes the muscles and makes the 
flesh soft and flabby, and thereby weak- 
ens the glands and tissues that the form 
gradually shrinks and loses its roundness. 
The best time for this exercise is after 
getting out of bed, before the corsets are 
put on and the same time in the evening. 

Keep the bedroom well aired so to ben- 
efit the lungs. There can never be too 
much fresh air; at the same time avoid 
draughts. 

TO SIT DOWN CORRECTLY.— Some 
women fall into their chairs as if they were 
badly-jointed dolls. A graceful woman 
sits down gently, unbending with a smooth 
motion until she has settled safely. 

TO RISE FROM A CHAIR.— Many 
women shift their weight from one foot to 
the other, and then rise with the weight 
on the wrong foot. Remember the weight 
should rest on one foot while sitting, hold- 
ing the other lightly on the floor, then press 
down hard on the foot which already bears 
the weight, and rise, standing for an in- 



stant on the same foot to get the balance 
before starting off. In this way all awk- 
wardness is avoided. A few minutes' daily 
practice will soon make one an expert. 

TO TURN ROUND GRACEFULLY. 
— Stop well all the weight on the foot in 
advance, resting only the toe of the rear 
foot on the ground; then turn smoothly 
around by transferring the weight to the 
other foot, making the turn entirely upon 
the balls of the foot with the heels scarcely 
touching the floor. This is very simple 
and easy, yet rarely seen practised. 

TO AVOID STOOPING.— Many grow- 
ing girls, especially those tall for their age, 
are inclined to stoop and are often advised 
to wear braces or shoulder straps. These 
may force an upright carriage, but they do 
not give the wearer any means of maintain- 
ing it, since they prevent the exercise of 
those muscles which should be trained to 
produce an erect figure. Any exercise 
which strengthens the muscles of the back 
and shoulders . will aid in correcting this 
defect. Old-fashioned mothers used to 
make their stooping daughters walk with a 
plate carried on their heads, and this is 
really a goodpractice. 

TO WALK WELL. — Some women are 
unaware how graceful or the reverse they 
walk until they catch a glimpse of them- 
seives in passing a mirror in a store win- 
dow, and then they are agreeably or dis- 
agreeably surprised. To walk gracefully, 
hold the body erect, the shoulders thrown 
back and the chest expanded. Slightly 
raise the head, keep the knees straight and 
the legs moved from the hips. Guard 
against any rolling movement of the body, 
avoid stiffness and cultivate an erect yet 
easy attitude. 

CULTURE OF THE SPEAKING 
VOICE. — There are three pitches of the 
voice — the middle or mean; the oral or 
high; the orotund or low. 

If every child were trained to use its 
voice rightly, or naturally, there would be 
no ugly voices. In childhood habits are 
picked up from nurses or some one else; 
and a child is led into the habit of speak- 
ing in a high pitch and this comes to 
sound natural. To produce a natural 
voice we must breathe naturally. Most 
women breathe from the upper part of 
their chests only, while most men and chil- 
dren breathe from the diaphragm. 

A good speaker starts with his lungs full 
of air and uses this carefully without wast- 
ing it, and replenishes it at intervals to 
prevent having his air all spent. A prac- 
tised speaker will pitch his voice according 
to the acoustic properties of the room in 
which he is speaking. If he wishes to 
convince his audience or arouse their en- 
thusiasm, he pitches it higher and higher, 
but not in such a way as to scream at 
them. Earnestness and intensity is dem- 
onstrated by a low pitch, rich in t®ne and 
pathos. 



184 



CARVED GNEISS PROVES THAT IT ONCE WAS FLUID. 



Education 



ARITHMETICAL SIGNS.— The sign 
of addition + called plus, indicates that 
the figures between which it is placed are 
to be added together. 

The sign of substraction — called minus, 
indicates that the figure at its right is to 
be taken from the figure at the left. 

The sign of multiplication X indicates 
that the figures between which it is placed 
are to be multiplied together. 

The sign of division -f- indicates that 
the figure placed at its left is to be divided 
by the figure at its right. 

The sign of equality = indicates that 
the figures between which it is placed 
are equal. 

is sometimes used for the word "num- 
ber." 

GRAMMAR. 

FOR CORRECT SPEAKING.— Rules 
to observe. 

1. The "article" should not be used be- 
tween the possessive case and the sub- 
stantive word or phrase which it governs. 
Example: Say, "Shakespeare's Tempest, 
not "Shakespeare's 'The Tempest.' " 

2. The article should be used before 
each of several expressions when they 
refer to persons or things to be considered 
separately. Ex.: Say, "Mr. P— is the 
President, and Mr. B— the secretary and 
the treasurer." 

3. The word "each" is used to denote 
every one of a number. It is singular, 
as it refers to persons or things considered 
separately. Ex.: "There are people each 
of whi^h is so mean," not, "are so mean. 

4. Either must not precede a verb or a 
nonn. Ex.: "She can write either prose or 
poetry." not. "she can either write," etc. 
Either is sometimes used for each. _ Ex.: 
Two mpn -n-pre seen one on either side. _ 

5. Every denotes all of a number and is 
sini^nlar as it refers to persons or thinsrs 
which are separate. Ev.: "Every train 
and stenmboftt wns crowded to excess," 
not "-tv^re crowrlpd." 

(\. The wo-d "eot" is imnroner. Ex.: 
"I have a ^nld. not "T have cot a cold." 

7. For "T had rather walk," say, "I 
would rather walk." 

Say. "he had come back," not "he was 
come hfl^'^." 

8. I and mp. "You are taller than I." 
not. "tiller than me." 

9. The verbs lay and lie are freqiiently 
misused. Lie means to recline. Lie, to 



tell a falsehood. Lay, to place. Ex.: "I 
lie down," "He lies down, she tells a 
lie, I lay down a book, she lays down a 
dress." 

10. Like and as. Use like when it may 
properly be followed by to. Use as when 
a verb follows in close connection. Ex.: 
"Whenever you like to do so." "As soon 
as he comes." 

11. May is used to express permission 
or probability, can to express possibility. 
Ex.: May I do that? is asking permission. 
Can I do it? is a possibility of its being 
accomplished. 

12. Two "negatives" are equal to an 
affirmative. Ex.: "I know nothing of your 
affairs," is correct, "I do not know 
nothing," means you know something. 

13. Neither means not either and is 
singular. Nor means not the other. Ex.: 
"Neither she nor I," "Nor you, nor me." 

14. Onto is incorrect. Use upon, unless 
a forward motion is suggested. 

15. Ought is used only in the present 
and past tense. In the present it must 
be followed by the present infinitive. In 
the past by the perfect infinitive. Ex.: 
"James ought to have gone to work— yes- 
terday," "not, ought to go." 

"ion ought not to have gone," not "yo» 
hadn't ought to, have you?" 

16. The Possessive. If several pos- 
sessive nouns refer to the same noun and 
are connected by and, the possessive sign 
should be used with the last noun only. 
Ex.: Men, women and children's shoes 
f . J sale. Do not mistake the plural num- 
ber for the possessive case. Two posses- 
sives cannot be used in the same sentence. 
Ex.: "Mr. Smith's horse's manes," say, 
"Mr. Smith horses' manes." 

17. Set is active, meaning to place in 
position. Sit, is a neuter verb. Ex.: "I 
set a table, he sets a trap, you set the 
rules — I sit down, he sits down." 

18. Shall and will. To express the 
future use shall in the first person and 
will in the second and third. 

Ex.: 1st person, "I shall be 20 in May," 
(this foretells.) 

2nd person, "You will have a warm 
day." 

3rd person, "He will repent. 

To express promise, obligation, pnrpose 
or an action one wishes to control, use 
will in the 1st, and shall in the 2nd and 
3rd person. Ex.: "I will meet .von at the 
church." (This is a promise.) 2nd, You 



MAGNESIA IS OBTAINED FROM MAGNESIAN LIMESTONE. 



185 



shall repent." (A threat.) 3rd, "She shall 
have a present. (A promise.) 

Should and would is used the same as 
shall and will. Ex.: "Would that I were 
there!" (A wish.) 

"She would go in spite of all." (Deter- 
miutaion.) "If he should call." (An ac- 
tion.) Say, "Shall I put more wood on?" 
not "will." "I will be drowned, nobody 
shall help me," means a determination to 
drown. "I shall be drowned; will nobody 
help me," means the fear of being 
drowned. 

19. Some is an adjective, something, a 
noun, somewhat, an adverb of degree. 

20. Such is often wrongly used instead 
of so. Ex.: "Pew countries enjoy so mild 
a climate," not "such mild," etc. 

Such precedes another adjective when 
it means like this and like these. 

21. For the words teach and learn. 
Ex.: Say "Will you teach me?" not learn 
me. 

22. That and this may be applied both 
to nouns and subjects. That denotes 
something that is absent, this an object 
that is present. 

23. To. The sign of the infinitive should 
not be separated from the verb by an 
intervening word, although a few author- 
ities insists that when separated it adds 
force to the sentence; however, it is better 
to follow the rule. 

Ex.: "To bear nobly," not "to nobly 
bear." "To love dearly," not "To dearly 
love." 

24. Was. The word was is frequently 
misplaced. Always use the plural were 
in the second person. Ex.: "You were 
out," not "You was out." 

"No wife, no child, no mother was 
there," not "were there." 

"When he had come back," not "when 
he was come back." 

"If I were he," not "If I was him." 

"Was followed," not "has been fol- 
lowed." 

2.5. Who, whose and whom. When you 
wish to distinguish between two or moro 
persons, say, "Which is the man?" not 
"who." Whose is applied to things as 
well as persons; who changes to certain 
conditions to whose and whom. Which 
and that always remains the same. 

Do not say. "after which hour," but 
"after that hour." 

Say "A soldier was killed with a bullet," 
not "by a bullet." 

Say, "I cannot rise so early," not "raise 
so early." 

Say, "I went to see him," not, "for to 
see him." 

Say, "I will never write," not "I won't 
never." 

Say, "I expected to find him," not "to 
have found him." 

Say, "Four persons," not, "two 
couples." 



Say, "A pair of new gloves," not "a 
new pair of gloves." 

Say, "We accuse him of," not, "accuse 
him for." 

Say, "Guided by a principle," not "fol- 
lowing up a principle." 

CORRECT SPELLING.— The follow- 
ing rules will be found of great assistance 
in writing, as they are words on which 
frequent doubt and hesitancy is felt. 

1. All words of one syllable ending in 
1 with a single vowel before it, have 
double 1 at the close, as: will, dell, well, 
sell, kill. 

2. All words of one syllable ending in 
1 with two vowels before it, have only 
one 1 at the close, as: mail, pail, real. 

3. Words of one syllable ending in 1, 
when compounded, retain but one 1; as, 
fulfil, skilful. 

4. Words of more than one syllable end- 
ing in 1, have only one 1 at the close, as: 
delightful, faithful; except, befall, unwell, 
recall, etc. 

5. All derivatives from words ending 
in 1 have one 1 only; as, equality from 
equal; fulness from full; except they end 
in er or ly; as, mill, miller, full, fuller. 

6._ All adverbs in ly and nouns in ment 
retain the final e of the primitives, as 
bravely, refinement, except abridgment, 
judgment, etc. 

7. All words of one syllable ending in a 
consonant with a single vowel before it, 
double the consonant in derivatives; as, 
sin, sinner, shipping, bigger, etc. 

8. When i or e follow c in a word, the 
e is usually placed first; as receive, per- 
ceive, deceive, conceive, etc.; in other 
instances the i comes before the e; as 
believe, relieve, etc. 

9. Some words are the same both in 
singular and in plural, such as sheep, deer, 
etc. 

10. The final e of a primitive word is 
generally omitted before an additional 
termination beginning with a vowel; as 
rate, ratable; force, forcible; but words 
ending in ce and ge retain the e before 
able and ous; as, peace, peaceable, out- 
rage, outrageous. 

11. Words ending in e, having ing 
added to them, must have the e left out; 
as come, coming, behave, behaving. 

12. Words ending in f, or fe, have v 
substituted for the f in forming plurals; 
as wife, wives; knife, knives; except when 
ending in ff. 

13. Observe always the difference be- 
tween their, a personal pronoun, and there, 
— in that place. 

LETTER WRITING.— Accustom your- 
self to observe a few general rules in 
letter-writing. Unless your full address 
is engraved upon the note paper, write 
it near the top right hand corner. 

Write the date in full. It takes no 



186 



MAGNESIAN LIMESTONE EFFERVESCES LITTLE IN ACIDS, 



longer to write May the second, than 
Wednesday afternoon. In writing a busi- 
ness letter, place the name of the person 
to whom the letter is addressed at the left 
side, a little below the signature. 

Never cross letters. Cheap notepaper 
makes this inexcusable. 

Do not write on the first page, then 
on the fourth, afterwards going back to 
the second and third. Such gymnastics 
only worry people. 

Fold a letter straight without too much 
creasing. Always have the envelopes 
fitted to the paper; put in first the page 
last folded. Except to intimate friends 
write with telegraphic brevity. 

Ladies generally use a smaller size sta- 
tionery than a gentleman. 

Unruled paper is considered more ele- 
gant than ruled, although an irregular 
writing detracts from the attractiveness 
of a letter. 

A plain legible hand is always prefer- 
able to flourishes. 

THE HEADING.— Consists of the 
name of the place, sometimes street and 
number, from which the letter is sent, 
and the date, including month, day and 
year. This should be written a line or 
two from the top of the page, and should 
be commenced so that it may end near the 
margin of the sheet at the right. 

THE ADDRESS.— This follows on the 
next line near the left side of the page, 
usually a little to the right of the body of 
the letter. 

For very formal letters: 

To a gentleman: name and address. Sir. 

In ordinary use: Name and address, 
Dear Sir. 

To a company: Names and address. 
Gentlemen. 

Implying greater intimacy: My dear 
Mr. . 

To a lady: Use Mrs. for a married lady. 

For formal lettters: Name and address. 
Madam. 

In ordinary use: Name and address. 
Dear Madam. 

Implying greater intimacy: My dear 
Mrs. . 

In less formal letters, the address may 
be written below and at the left of the 
signature at the end of the letter. 

Other forms of address are required 
according to circumstances, varying with 
the terms of intimacy that exist. 

The title Hon. is applied to persons 
holding high governmental positions. 

His excellency is sometimes applied to 
the President and State Governors. 

Among relatives it is proper to use 
terms of endearment, as "My beloved 
Mother," "My respected father." 

Sentimental salutations do not improve 
the character of social correspondence. 



THE BODY OF THE LETTER.— The 

body of the letter should be commenced 
on the line next below the address and 
a little to the right of it. The style varies 
with the character of the letter. 

Do not begin with the letter "1" if it can 
be helped; it is not good taste to make 
oneself conspicuous. A frequent repeti- 
tion of "I" makes the writer appear to 
have an exalted idea of his own import- 
ance. 

Business letters should be formal, brief 
and to the point. 

Do not close a letter abruptly. 

The last paragraph should be a sort of 
prelude to the conclusion. 

CLOSING. — There are various forms of 
closing a letter, a few are here given: 

Truly yours; Yours truly; Respectfully; 
Respectfully yours; Yours very respect- 
fully; Your obedient servant; Your hum- 
ble servant; Yours cordially; Faithfully 
yours; Yours affectionately; Ever yours 
affectionately; As ever your friend; Yours 
devotedly; Yours most sincerely; Sincerely; 
Yours with sincere esteem; With kind re- 
gards, I remain, sincerely your friend; 
Ever faithfully your friend. 

POSTSCRIPTS.— This is usually an 
admission of the writer's carelessness. It 
is a bad habit, but is sometimes properly 
used when you wish to express something 
which is foreign to the subject of the let- 
ter, as it would seem out of keeping with 
the rest if it were inserted in the main 
part. 

TO ADDRESS ENVELOPES.— Write 
the name about half way between the top 
and bottom of the envelope; under this 
write the address, commencing each line 
a little further to the right than that 
above it. Make the address as legible as 
possible. Keep uniform spacing between 
the lines. Do not rule the lines with a 
pencil. If you cannot write straight, slip 
inside the envelope a card ruled with 
heavy black lines to serve as a guide. 
Place the stamp on the right hand corner 
at the top of the envelope. 

TO WRITE A LOVE-LETTER.— 
To many, a letter of this description is an 
easy matter, their pens run on in a fluent 
manner when writing to the adored one. 
But to others, there is much brain racking 
and it is found hard to accomplish. 

Say just the right thing, not too much 
nor yet too little — feel that you have ex- 
pressed just what you want to say, for 
a number of lover's quarrels have arisen 
from a badly expressed, misconstrued 
letter. The best way is to write as if you 
were talking; imagine that he is present, 
and say the same as if he were; then 
write down the same words, and your let- 
ter will have the charm of being natural. 
Be tender and loving, let the words come 



ROUNDED PEBBLES ARE BROKEN FRAGMENTS OF ROCK. 



187 



straight from the heart, when finished, 
read it over and feel that such a letter 
written to you would bring joy and com- 
fort; then post it with a light heart. 

MARKS OF PUNCTUATION.— Im- 
proper punctuation often renders the 
meaning of a sentence unintelligible or the 
opposite of what is intended. 

, Comma. Marking the shortest pause 
in reading, used in the divisions of a sen- 
tence. 

; Semicolon. A longer pause than a 
comma, used between the divisions of a 
sentence which state distinct propositions, 
but still have a relation or dependence. 

: Colon. A pause greater than a semi- 
colon. Used before a quotation or speech 
or to separate the parts of a sentence. 

. Period. Placed at the end of every 
sentence and after every initial or abbre- 
viation. Used also for separating whole 
numbers from decimals. 

? Interrogation point. After every sen- 
tence or part of sentence which contains a 
question. 

! Exclamation point. After a word, 
phrase or sentence to denote emotion of the 
mind. 

— Dash. Sometimes used as a paren- 
thesis to indicate the omission of something 
or change of subject. 

( ) Parenthesis. To enclose some inci- 
dental or explanatory remark, without in- 
juring the sentence. 

[ ] Brackets. Used chiefly to rectify 
a mistake, supply an omission or give an 
explanation. 

- Hyphen. To connect two words used 
as one. Also used at the end of a sylla- 
ble when the remainder follows on the next 
line. 

" " Quotation marks. Are used to siow 
the words are quoted. 

' Apostrophe. To indicate the posses- 
sive case. 

{ Brace. To join two or more names on 
different lines under a common name. 

A Caret. To denote that something has 
accidentally been omitted. 

PROOF CORRECTIONS FOR THE 
PRESS. — Signs and abbreviations used in 
correcting proof: 

> or (dele) — Take away or expunge. 

6) . — Turn an inverted letter. 

n . — Indent. 

O . — Space to be taken out. 

# . — More space between words or let- 
ters. 

._^ or V . — Less space between words «r 
letters. 

X . — Broken or imperfect type. 
\1^ . — A space appearing improperly. 

Placed under words or letters 

erased shows they are to be restored. 
Place stet in margin. 

If. — Make a new paragraph. 

r~. — A word or line to be moved to- 
Tvards the bracket whichever way turned. 



1. c. (lower case). — A word or letters 
printed in capitals to be made small. 

tr. — Transpose words or letters. 

w. f. (wrong font).— A letter of a 
wrong size or style. 

Qy or ?. — Query as to spelling or lan- 
guage. 

— . — Under letters indicates they are 
to be changed from Roman to Italic, or 
vice versa. 

= . — Small capitals to be put in. 

= . — Capitals to be put in. 

out s. c. — Words are wanting — see copy. 

/ . — Letters stand crooked. 

TO STUDY FRENCH OR OTHER 
LANGUAGES. — Get some one to mark 
you out a course of reading and read 
French aloud with a companion half an 
hour daily, translating as you proceed, and 
read another half hour to yourselves. Set 
aside a certain time daily for French 
conversation, and if you can get any one 
conversant with the language to talk with 
you and correct your mistakes it will be 
a great help. This method with lessons 
from a good teacher will be of great 
assistance in acquiring a foreign language. 

PIANOFORTES (POSITION).— Damp 
is very injurious to a piano, therefore 
place it in a dry place, never next to 
the outer wall and where it cannot be 
exposed to draughts. 

CARE. — Keep your piano free from 
dust; have no needles, pins or crumba 
placed upon it, as these articles are apt to 
get inside the keyboard and produce a jar- 
ring sound. 

TUNING. — Have a piano tuned about 
every two months, even when not in use. 
If it is not kept up to concert pitch 
it will not stand in tune when required, 
which it will do if attended to regularly. 

TO POLISH.— To keep it in good order 
rub with an old silk handkerchief after 
dusting it well. This is all the polish it 
will require if kept perfectly free from 
dust. 

DAMPNESS.— Should any of the notes 
keep down when struck it is a sure sign 
that there is damp somewhere which has 
caused the small note upon which the 
key works to swell. 

REMARKS. — When not in use keep the 
piano locked. Never load the top of the 
instrument with music, books, etc., as 
the tone is thereby deadened and a whiz- 
zing noise is produced. An upright piano 
sounds better if placed about two inches 
from the wall. 

PIANO PRACTICE. — Piano students 
have peculiar ideas about piano practice. 
As long as a certain number of hours 
are regularly given they confidently ex- 
pect that a brilliant execution must be 
the result. Scales are played probably 



188 



ALUMINE IS THE BASIS OF ALUM. 



correctly as regards fingering and notes, 
but rarely attention is paid to the tone. 
The weaker fingers are usually slurred 
oyer instead of being the object of spe- 
cial care. A slovenly manner of playing 
is easily acquired which requires time 
and patience to change. 

TO PRACTICE.— Many learners and 
players move the upper part of their 
arms much more than is necessary while 
practicing and curve their elbows out- 
wards instead of holding them near the 
body. The German method is very suc- 
cessful for this, and if practiced regularly 
two or three times a day will be found 
very satisfactory. The upper part of 
the arm cannot be kept perfectly still 
while playing extended passages, but a 
steady control can be acquired. 

Press the upper part of the arm against 
the front of the body so the elbows touch 
the ribs, then the fingers will naturally 
take the proper curved position. 

Strike the notes of an octave chord one 
after another, having the fleshy part 
of each finger touch the key. The thumb 
must be turned a little on one side. 

Raise each finger before striking a note, 
no finger being raised till the next one 
is lying on its key; the wrist cannot now 
be raised. 

Begin playing the scales very slowly, 
striking each note firmly in the centre, 
one finger being raised as the next touches 
the next note. Use each hand separately 
also, attentively listening to the tone. 

Do not droop the wrists, make no un- 
necessary motion of the hands and pass 
the thumb quietly under the fingers. Hold 
the wrist loosely in wrist exercises. 

A good wrist exercise consists in strik- 
ing the same octave several times with- 
out moving the elbow. 

Raise the hand as high as possible be- 
tween each octave, the fleshy part and 
not the side of the thumb on each key. 
These exercises are intended for extra 
practice, and a few minutes at the time 
will be quite sufficient. 

Studies and pieces must be taken slow- 
ly and with a firm touch, leaving the 
various marks of expression until they 
are note perfect. Time, fingering and 
phrasing must be attended to from the 
beginning. 

A simple piece artistically rendered is 
far more pleasing than a more ambitious 
attempt. Leave the use of the pedal till 
the last. 

Some knowledge of harmony is abso- 
lutely essential to the correct use of the 
pedal and many an otherwise creditable 
performance is quite marred by the use of 
it. 

Endeavor to commit something to mem- 
ory every day. This of course comes 
easier to some than to others, but perse- 
rerance will do wonders. 



Try each day to give a few minutes to 
sight reading. A musician's usefulness is 
greatly increased by being able to read 
quickly. 

In reading endeavor to give the tinfe 
and style as well as possible while going 
straight through. Later the piece can be 
overlooked and the mistakes corrected. 

THE ART OF SINGING. 

NURSING THE BREATH.— Always 

open the mouth well in singing. Bear in 
mind that the breath has to be nursed 
for two distinct reasons. Firstly, if too 
much breath is allowed to escape, the notes 
are not as clear as they should be. 
Secondly, a singer must have control over 
the lungs in order to sing easily and grace- 
fully the long passages and sustained 
notes. 

POSITION.— Do not acquire an artifi- 
cial way of holding the head when sing- 
ing; keep it the same as when speaking 
for a natural position is necessary in order 
to produce pure notes. 

EXPRESSION.— Cultivate a pleasant 
expression on the face without producing 
a broad smile. Never knit the brows while 
practising, or the same anxious expression 
will be the consequence when singing in 
public. 

BREATHING.— Keep the breathing as 
low down in the chest as possible and 
never draw breath by raising the 
shoulders. This has a bad effect upon the 
blood-vessels of the throat and causes ex- 
treme nervousness. If the lower parts of 
the lungs are not sufficiently exercised,, 
the breathing capacity diminishes. 

TIRING THE VOICE.— Do not tire the 
voice by practising too long; better to ex- 
ercise ten minutes several times a day. 
Careless practice is worse than useless, 
and every minute of good practice will 
result in some improvement. 

Practicing. — Never practice when the 
voice is weak from cold or illness. The 
result of straining for a certain note which 
cannot be easily sung is hoarseness and a 
risk of damaging the voice. 

The voice must be rested if not up to 
the mark and is a sure sign that the prac- 
ticing must stop. 

DISTINCT PRONUNCIATION.— En- 
deavor to pronounce every word that it 
may be distinctly heard, for _ music _ is 
greatly enhanced when combined with 
well-written verse. A good plan is to re- 
cite the words of the song alone with their 
correct expression, thereby learning the 
sense of the words, before bestowing the 
attention both on the music and the song. 

SINGING IN PUBLIC— Be easy and 
graceful; do not grasp the music too- 



ALABASTER IS GYPSUM. 



189 



tightly nor finger it nervously, changing 
the position of the hands too frequently. 

Do not be too anxious to accept encores. 

Nor do not be urged too much. Appear 
willing but not anxious to sing again, and 
respond heartily to a real encore. 

STENOGRAPHY.— Is a system of writ- 
ing entirely by sound. The alphabet con- 
tains forty letters or signs, there being 
forty elementary sounds in the English 
language. These signs are divided into 
consonants and vowels. The consonants 
are written with strokes and stems, and 
the vowels with dots and short dashes 
placed at the side of these stems. The 
four diphthongs are represented by small 
angles. 

INSTRUCTIONS. — 1. Always write 
shorthand on ruled paper, so that there 
will be no trouble in determining the 
position of the word. The wider the space 
between the lines the better it is. 

2. Write slowly at first and be precise. 

3. Begin by making the stems about 
one-fifth of an inch long; these may be 
slightly reduced afterwards. 

4. Have the heavy curves shaded mostly 
in the centre, tapering gradually towards 
the ends. 

5. Have the heavy straight stems of an 
even thickness throughout. 

6. Write first the consonants, then the 
vowels. 

7. Write all the upright or slanting 
stems from the top downwards, except 
ree, which is always written upwards. 

8. Sh and 1 are sometimes written up- 
iWards and sometimes downwards. 

9. When writing rapidly it will be found 
much more beneficial if the pencil be held 
lightly, and the shoulder movement is used 
instead of the finger or wrist movement as 
is usually practiced. 

10. The speed required in business is 
from 60 to 100 words a minute, and unless 
there are unusual cases, it never exceeds 
this point. 

TELEGRAPHY.— The Morse system of 
telegraphy consists in training the ear to 
detect long and short sounds made as 
rapidly as the hand can open and close 
the key in forming the sounds. The fol- 
lowing table shows the signs used to 
represent the letters and figures: 







Letters. 




A, 





K, 


_ 


B, 


— 


L, 




c. 


- - - 


M, 





JL>, 


. 


N, 


. 


E, 


- 


0, 


. 


F, 





P, 




G. 


. 


Q, 


. . . 


H, 


- . - _ 


R, 


. . 


1, 


. - 


s, 


... 


J, 





T, 


— 



TJ, 
V, 
W, 
X, 
Y, 

Z, 

&, 
1, 

2, 



3, 

4, 
5, 

6, 

7, 
8, 
9, 
0, 



REMINGTON TYPEWRITER. 

TO CLEAN.— The machine must be 
kept thoroughly clean and free from dust 
to ensure perfect work. The dust from 
sweeping will settle on the exposed rods, 
and when the carriage is moved, the rolls 
crush this dust and it adheres both to the 
rods and rolls, especially the rolls and 
thereby stopping or impeding the motion 
of the carriage. 

TO OIL. — Never oil the machine with- 
out first wiping off all that remains out- 
side the oiling spot, for it will only form a 
gum that will prevent its running 
smoothly and lightly. Clean the top rod 
on which the carriage runs every day, 
wiping it with a slightly oiled cloth, leav- 
ing none on the surface. If the carriage 
should run sluggishly, the first thing to do 
is to wipe off the shift rail. If the teeth 
of the rack and the points of the dogs get 
dry, making the keys grate, then pour a 
drop of oil upon something flat and apply 
it to the bottom of the rack, run the ma- 
chine a little and wipe off the surplus oil. 

Kee^D oiled the pulley wheels on which 
the rubber bands run, and the ends of the 
feed-roll shaft, which turn in the hook 
bearings. This insures perfect feed to the 
paper. Oil occasionally the bearings of 
the ribbon spool shafts and the long, bev- 
eled gear shafts. Any of the rolls or 
shafts may have their bearings oiled should 
they become dry and hard. 

TO CLEAN THE TYPE.— When the 

type begins to fill up with ink and dust, 
the print will become blurred and the let- 
ters undefined. The best way to clean 
them is to raise the type-bar and hold it 
firmly with one hand, being careful not 
to bend or displace the type-bar, and then 
pick out the dirt with a pin; afterwards 
brush the types with a type brush. If the 
machine is used daily, it is best to brush 
off the dust, clean the rods, rolls and types 
every time you sit down to it. 

THE CALIGRAPH TYPEWRITER. 

TO PUT IN AND TAKE OUT THE 
TYPE.— Turn to the right to take out a 
type; the opposite direction will tighten 
it. Should a type fall out, lift its type 
bar, and put it back with the letter 
towards you; hold a weight under the end 
of the type bar, and drive it home with 



190 



EMEllY IS A MIISrERAL. 



a piece of hard wood or any heavy article 
softer than the type itself; uever use iron 
for this. 

SLUGGISH FINGER KEYS— There 
may be two reasons for this; the first, they 
may require a drop of oil on the stem of 
the key where it passes through the bridge; 
secondly, the adjusting screw in the hanger 
may be screwed too tight and require 
turning back a trifle, 

CLEANING THE TYPE— Should any 
of the type not give a clear, sharp im- 
print they require cleaning. Raise the 
type, remove the dirt with any sharp 
pointed instrument or pin, then brush the 
type with a dry tooth or type brush. 
Dirty type will ruin any kind of work. 

OILING. — As a rule the caligraph needs 
no oiling except for cleaning purposes; but 
the carriage main shafts must always be 
kept free from dust and slightly used. 

Apply a drop of oil to the upper end of 
both shafts about three inches from either 
end; draw the carriage several times from 
one side to the other, and clean the entire 
length with a clean, dry cloth. Then ap- 
ply oil as just stated; occasionally moisten 
the teeth of the spacing rack with oil. 
Rub over the teeth on the bottom of the 
racks with a clean cloth having very little 
oil on it. Clean these teeth with a clean 
brush before oiling again. 

SEWING MACHINES. HINTS FOR 
OPERATING THEM. 

TO OIL.— Different machines have dif- 
ferent ways of oiling, but the mechanism 
being somewhat similar, the same method 
is generally applied to them all. 

If a machine runs hard after standing 
for some time, use a little kerosene or ben- 
zine on the wearing points, run rapidly, 
wipe clean, then oil with the best sperm 
oil all the oil-holes and the parts that rub 
against another producing friction. If it 
still runs hard then some place has been 
overlooked. 

To reach the parts to be oiled under the 
bed of the machine, turn it back. A ma- 
chine in constant use should be oiled once 
a day, and especially after long stand- 
ing. 

THE BELT.— The leather belt gives 
motion to the machine, and should be 
tight enough to slip and no tighter, not 
sufficiently so to prevent the easy motion 
of the machine. If the belt is too long, 
unfasten it and cut off squarely from one 
end to the desired length. 

THE TENSION.— The tension of a 
needle is regulated by turning a thumb- 
screw found on the face plate; turn to 
the right to increase, to the left to dimin- 
ish. The tension should be regulated so 



as to lock the stitch in the centre of the 
fabric. 

CAUTIONS WHILE "USING THE 
MACHINE. 

1. Do not attempt to sew until suf- 
ficiently familar with the treadle motion to 
be able to start the machine withoht turn- 
ing it backwards, to run it with a regular 
and steady motion and to guide the goods. 

2. Never run a machine with the 
presser-foot resting on the feed and no 
cloth between. 

3. Practice upon strips of cloth, and 
never attempt practical sewing until you 
can guide the material and produce a regu- 
lar motion. 

4. Do not try to help the machine by 
pulling the fabric, for the needle may bend. 
A machine feed needs no assistance. 

5. Never run the machine with both 
shuttle and needle threaded, except when 
sewing. 

BREAKING THE NEEDLE.— This 
may be caused by: 

1. Pulling the goods to or from you so 
that the needle strikes the throat plate. 

2. Caused by sewing heavy seams, the 
pressure on the pressure foot not being 
heavy enough. 

3. A blunt or hooked pointed needle will 
cause trouble and produce bad work. 

BREAKING THE LOWER 
THREAD.— This may be caused by: 

1. Shuttle being wrongly threaded. 

2. Tension too tight. 

3. Bobbin wound too full so it cannot 
revolve. 

4. Shuttle place needs cleaning. 
BREAKING THE UPPER 

THREAD.— This may be caused by: 

1. Improper threading. 

2. Upper tension too tight. 

3. Needle too small for the thread. 

4. Needle set wrong side out. 

5. Needle set crooked. 

6. Needle set too high. 

7. Needle too large for the plate hole. 
GENERAL REMARKS.— Always 

keep the slide over the shuttle race closed. 
This is important. Be sure every part of 
the machine is clean before commencing to 
sew. Let the oil be of the purest kind. 
To remove the work, raise the needle to 
its highest point, lift the presser-foot, draw 
the work backwards about two inches to 
the left; cut the thread close to the goods, 
leaving two inches of thread to comnience 
sewing with. 

MANAGEMENT OF SERVANTS.— 
Work in a house must be systematically 
arranged and carried out, and rtie mistress 
should see that all her plans are adhered 
to. When engaging a servant do not be 
guided by a written reference; it is better 
to have an interview if possible with her 
former mistress. 



BORAX IS PURIFIED TINCAL POUND IN" THIBET. 



191 



On the first day a uew maid takes up her 
■work, explain to her the methods of the es- 
tablishment, and the times and seasons of 
doing various work. 

When once these rules are made, the 
mistress should take infinite care not to dis- 
arrange them. Only call her from her du- 
ties when imperative necessity demands 
it. 

In giving instructions, try and make 
them clear and explicit, and never call ser- 
vants stupid because they fail to grasp the 
idea at once. 

Never reprove a servant before com- 
pany. Know well what ought to be done 
and when it is done properly. 

The mistress must visit her kitchen at 
least once a day, and consult with the 
cook what orders are to be given to the 
butcher, grocer, greengrocer, etc. 

The attributes of a good servant are, 
honesty, sobriety, simplicity, cheerfulness, 
good health, and politeness. 

SUNDAY SCHOOL TEACHING. 

HOW TO MANAGE A CLASS.— Do 
not think this can be done without any 
tiouble; for a good deal of labor is in- 



volved if success is desired. Let it be a 
labor of love. 

TO PREPARE THE LESSONS.— Pre- 
pare each lesson beforehand, for it is 
useless to try to impart to others what 
one does not know oneself. There are 
many books of information that can always 
be consulted for a subject-matter. Use 
plenty of stories and pictures in teaching 
children. Don't read a lesson out of a 
book; merely glance at notes now and then. 
The children will pay more attention if 
your eye is on them and you speak instead 
of read. 

TO KEEP ORDER.— Be very patient; 
keep your temper in perfect control; be 
firm, but also gentle and polite. Explain 
as simply as possible and be indulgent to 
the dullest pupils. If the children fidget, 
and pay no attention to you, it is probably 
your fault. 

THE DUTIES.— Visit the children's 
parents regularly, and get the mothers in- 
terested in your work. Teach your pupils 
by example how to behave in church. 

When they absent themselves find out 
the cause, and visit them if they are ill; 
the little ones appreciate their teacher's 
attention to them. 



192 PORTLAND STOXE IS COARSE GRIT CEMENTED WITH EARTHY SPAE. 



Law 



THE NEW U. S. BANKRUPT LAW. 

The new law, enacted by the Fifty- 
fifth Congress, afiEords a full measure of re- 
lief to the debtors, who, having dealt hon- 
estly with their creditors, may now ob- 
tain discharges and use the benefits to be 
derived from this new bankrupt act, so 
that the insolvent party can, if no fraud 
be proved, resume business under his or 
her own name. 

This law operates uniformly m all the 
States and annuls all other bankrupt laws. 
All persons engaged in manufacturmg, 
trading or mercantile pursuits owing debts 
to the amount of one thousand dollars or 
more, may be made an involuntary bank- 
rupt- , , X 

Any person may become a voluntary 
bankrupt by applying to the courts for a 
release of their indebtedness, but, as in 
all cases of bankruptcy, there must be 
evidence that no fraud has been committed 
heretofore. 

An equitable division of property must 
be distributed proportionately among all 
creditors. , . 

If, while insolvent, a debtor transfers 
any portion of his property to a creditor 
with intent to prefer one to another, he or 
she commits an act of bankruptcy. 

A person is insolvent when the amount 
of his property at a fair valuation is not 
sufficient to pay his debts. 

BILLS OF SALE. — These are written 
evidences of conveyance of personal 
property from one person to another, for 
certain considerations. Any form of 
words, transferring from the seller to the 
buyer, is a bill of sale, and there should 
also be a delivery of the property, though 
ill some States a bill of sale, without deliv- 
ery is sufficient to claim ownership, unless 
the sale was made to avoid payment of 
debts. When the property is delivered, 
then there is no necessity for a bill of 
sale, but it is always an evidence of the 
transfer, and is safer to have one. 

LEASES. — The person who leases real 
estate to another is a landlord, the person 
who hires the property is a tenant. Leases 
for one vear or less require no written 
agreement; those for a longer period must 
be in writing, and for over three years 
must be recorded. No special form is 
necessary. A tenant can sub-let a part or 
all of his premises, unless forbidden in the 
terms of his lease, or he be a tenant at 
will. 



Duplicate copies of a lease should al- 
ways be made, each party to retain a copy. 
A new lease invalidates the old one. 

A tenant at will may be given one 
month's notice in writing, requiring him to 
remove; don't accept less when the prem- 
ises are rented by the month. 

A husband cannot make a lease which 
will bind his wife's property after his 
death. 

Have a written lease in your possession 
before occupying the premises; see that 
every promise that the landlord has made 
is clearly defined in it, and if the taxes are 
to be paid by either landlord or tenant let 
it be distinctly stated in the lease, as a 
verbal promise is of no account. 

A lunatic, infant or imbecile cannot 
make a valid lease, although they can be- 
come tenants. 

MORTGAGES.— A mortgage is secur- 
ity given for the payment of a debt, either 
in real or personal property. When this 
debt is paid, the mortgage becomes yoid 
and is no longer of any value. 

A mortgage of personal property is a 
chattel mortgage, and the one who mort- 
gages his property is called a mortgagor, 
while the person to whom it is given is the 
mortgagee. 

When real estate is mortgaged, the 
mortgagor keeps the property, takes the 
rents and other benefits and pays all in- 
surance, taxes, etc. A foreclosure is a no- 
tice that the property is forfeited for non- 
payment of interest, etc., and must be sold. 

CHATTEL MORTGAGES.— These are 

mortgages on personal property, such as 
furniture, jewels, etc. A chattel mort- 
gage does not include any possessions the 
mortgagor may subsequently acquire. 

These mortgages must be in writing, 
signed, witnessed, sealed and recorded. 

When given to defraud creditors, they 
are worthless. 

A chattel mortgage is a bill of sale in 
case of foreclosure, therefore an inventory 
of every article must be written down. Aa 
fire does not wipe out the debt, the prop- 
erty must be fully insured. 

The personal property may be retained 
or given in possession of the mortgagee, aa 
agreed upon. 

PARTNERSHIP. — Is an agreement be- 
tween two or more persons of sound mind 
to combine their time, work and money 
and to share in the profits and losses that 



IKON WITH SULPHURIC ACID IS GREEN VITRIOL. 



193 



may accrue from the business they may 
engage in. 

There are several classes of partnership: 
First. — Ostensible partners; their names 
appear together and they divide the profits 
and risks. 

Second. — Nominal partners; these have 
no real interest in the business, but are 
partners before the public and are liable 
for all the debts and contracts of the firm. 
Third. — General partners; these manage 
the business, while the capital is supplied 
by the special partners. They also are lia- 
ble for all the debts contracted. 

Fourth. — Silent or dormant partners; 
their names do not appear publicly, but 
they have an interest in the business and 
are liable with all other partners. 

Fifth. — Special partners; these are in- 
terested only for the amount of capital 
they have invested in the business. They 
are also called limited partners. 

A person entering into an established 
firm, becomes responsible for its debts. 
Each partner is liable for all the debts. 

Partners can mutually dissolve a part- 
nership. 

The firm is held responsible for any acts 

of a partner which concerns the business. 

Have the articles of partnership written 

•out, otherwise they are not recognized by 

law. 

Death dissolves a partnership. 
The surviving partners can wind up the 
business and settle the affairs. 

When a firm dissolves, the public must 
be notified, and actual notice must be 
given to every one who has had dealings 
with the firm; this saves the partners from 
further liability. 

TO MAKji) A WILL.— Much litigation 
can be avoided by making a will and leav- 
ing one's possessions, however small tEey 
may be, to those nearest and dearest. 
Some think that the very act of making a 
will must result in their own near death; 
but this is a fallacy and the knowledge 
that the few or many things we possess 
will go to those to whom we intend them, 
■will compensate for the trouble of having 
one's will drawn out and signed. 

DIVISION OF PROPERTY.— If there 
is any division of property to be made after 
death, employ a lawyer to draw up the 
will. A man or woman who wishes to 



leave everything absolutely to one person 
may make the will himself, by taking vari- 
ous precautions, to avoid later litigation. 

The law of the State of New York, re- 
quires a will to be signed by the testator 
and two witnesses in the presence of one 
another; these must also add their place 
of residence. 

SIMPLE FORM OF A WILL.— This 
is amply sufiicient for a will drawn out by 
oneself; a more complicated and elaborate 
one can be made by a lawyer. 

"I being of sound mind 

and memory do make this my last will and 
testament, hereby revoking all former wills 
made by me. After the payment of my 
just debts and funeral expenses, I be- 
queath all my property, real and personal, 
wheresoever it may be, to my 

I appoint executor of thii, my 

last will and testament. 

In witness whereof, I hereunto set my 
hand and seal, this day of 

(Witnesses signatures) Signature. 

RULES FOR DRAWING UP A 
WILL. — 1. The male person making a will 
is the testator, if female, the testatrix. 

2. Write the will in ink on a single 
sheet of paper if possible. 

3. Never make an alteration, addition 
or erasure, after the will has been signed 
or it may be rendered invalid. 

4. If a mistake is made, re-write the 
whole. An erasure may cause difficulty. 

5. If you wish to change the provisions 
of a will, make a new one, and cause the 
old one to be destroyed, this is better than 
codicils. 

6. The will must be signed in presence 
of at least two witnesses, who affix their 
full name and addresses. 

7. No one to whom money or property 
has been left may witness a will. 

8. A minor cannot make a will or act 
as executor. 

9. In drawing up a will say "bequeath" 
for personal, and "devise" for real prop- 
erty. 

10. Do not fail to declare it to be ypnr 
last will and testament. 

11. Marriage after making a will, re- 
vokes it, in most of the United States, 

12. A will made on Sunday is legal. 



194 



COrPEE COMBINES "WITH 60 SEVERAL SUBSTANCES. 



General Information 



HOW TO ANSWER ADVERTISE- 
MENTS. — Read the advertisemeut care- 
fully and consider whether your qualifica- 
tions meet the requirements. Remember 
your application will be only one among 
dozens, and therefore those answering 
most fully to the requirements will be 
more likely to receive an answer. 

II. Be courteous. Begin with "Sir," or 
"Madam," and end politely. If anxious 
for a definite reply, even though it decides 
against you, enclose a stamped and ad- 
dressed envelope. 

III. Give detailed information about 
yourself. It is useless to assert your com- 
petence and then add, "If you consider my 
application favorable, I shall be happy to 
give you full particulars." State your age, 
experience and if for a governess, your 
method of teaching, religious denomination 
and any extra points in your favor; also 
if possible send copies of your diplomas, 
and mention any examinations you may 
have passed. 

IV. Be careful in your composition. 
Do not over-abbreviate or begin sentences 
in telegram fashion, thus: "Can do so 
and so;—" "Will do all in my power," "I 
can," and "I will" is better. 

V. Write the letter clearly, one page fol- 
lowing the other, so that the reader is not 
puzzled to know where the letter begins 
and ends, and in fact endeavor to spare 
the advertiser's time and trouble rather 
than your own; this will prove the best 
policy. 

TO PREPARE MANUSCRIPTS FQi 

EDITORS.— Write clearly, and on one side 
of the paper only. 

Fasten the sheets neatly and securely 
on the left upper corner with fasteners in 
preference to pins. 

Enclose either a wrapper or stamped 
addressed envelope for return of the MSS., 
if unsuitable. 

Don't send long stories to papers which 
only publish short ones or vice-versa. 
Study carefully the paper for which you 
wish to write. 

TO RENEW MANUSCRIPTS.— With 

a hair pencil wash the part that has been 
effaced with a solution of prussiate of 
potash in water, and the writing will again 
appear if the paper has not been destroyed. 



BY-LAWS AND CONSTITUTION. 
ORDER OF BUSINESS OF A SO- 
CIETY OR CLUB.— 

Title. The title and name of this club 
shall be 

Object. The object of this club is for 
mutual benefit and for 

Officers. The officers of this club shall 
be a President, Secretary and Treasurer. 

Members. Any person (male or female) 
may become a member of this club on the 
payment of the sum of 

Dues. The monthly or annual dues for 
each member are 

Meeting. The weekly (monthly or an- 
nual) meeting shall take place on 

Arrears. Every member of the society 
or club not in arrears for dues shall be en- 
titled to a vote. 

ELECTIONS.— An annual election of 
officers takes place on 

Duties of officers: 

The President. Must be prompt, im- 
partial and dignified. He or she, must at 
once notice any member who rises, and 
declare he has possession of the floor. He 
must allow no member to violate order. 
His voice must be distinct, and his tem- 
per must always be preserved. He must 
sign all orders for the payment of money. 

Secretary. — The duty of the secretary is 
to keep the minutes of all the proceedings 
of the society, to record it in their books, 
and perform all the duties of his oflice. 

Treasurer. — Shall have charge of all the 
funds belonging to the society, and dis- 
burse the same under the direction and 
signature of the president. He must pre- 
sent his duly audited annual account at the 
annual or semi-annual meeting. 

The Committees. — Will attend to such 
business as may be assigned to them, re- 
porting thereon at the monthly or weekly 
meetings. 

ORDER OF BUSINESS. 

1. Reading of the minutes. 

2. Reports of officers. 

3. Receiving communications and bills. 

4. Admission of new members and elec- 
tion of officers at the annual meeting. 

5. New business. 

6. Reports of the secretary and treas- 
urer. 

7. Adjournment. 

RATES OF POSTAGE.— One cent pos- 
tal cards go free to all parts of the United 
States and Canada. 



LEAD COMBINES WITH 60 SEVERAL SUBSTANCES. 



195 



Foreigu postal cards are two cents 
each. 

Letters go to all parts of the United 
States, Canada and Mexico, two cents for 
•unce or fraction thereof. 

First Class. — Letters and all other writ- 
ten matter, sealed or unsealed, that can- 
not be easily examined. Two cents for 
each ounce or fraction thereof. 

Second Class. — For publishers and 
news agents, one cent per pound. News- 
papers and periodicals, one cent for each 
four ounces. 

Third Class. — Printed matter in un- 
sealed wrappers, one cent for each two 
ounces or fraction thereof. 

Fourth Class. — All matter easily with- 
drawn from the wrapper and examined, 
one cent per ounce; limit, four pounds. 

POSTAL MONEY ORDERS.— For or- 
ders not exceeding $2.50, 3 cents. 

Exceeding $2.50 and not exceeding $5.00, 
5 cents. 

Exceeding $5.00 and not $10.00, 8 cents. 

Exceeding $10.00 and not $20.00, 10 

Exceeding $20.00 and not $30.00 12 
cents. 

Exceeding $30.00 and not $40.00, 15 
cents. 

Exceeding $40.00 and not $50.00, 18 

Exceeding $50.00 and not $60.00, 20 
cents. 

Exceeding $60.00 and not $75.00, 25 

Exceeding $75.00 and not $100.00, 80 
cents. 

FOREIGN POSTAGE. — To Great 
Britain, Ireland, France, Spain, all Ger- 
many, Austria, Denmark, Italy, Switzer- 
land, Russia, Sweden, Norway, Turkey, 
Egypt and Australia, five cents for letters 
weighing half ounce or fraction thereof, 
and newspapers one cent for two ounces or 
fraction thereof. 

China or Japan, letters five cents; news- 
papers one cent for two ounces. 

British India, via Italy, letters five 
cents; newspapers one cent for two ounces. 

TO REGISTER LETTERS.- All kinds 
of first-class matter can be registered at the 
rate of eight cents for each package in ad- 
dition to the regular rates of postage, fully 
prepaid by stamps. The package or let- 
ter must bear the name and address of the 
sender and a receipt will be returned from 
the person to whom addressed. No receipt 
is returned from a foreign country. 

The Postofflce Department is not by law 
liable for the loss of any registered mail 
matter. 

RULES FOR FINDING INTEREST. 
— Four per cent., multiply the principal 
by the number of days to run and divide 
by 90. 

5 per cent., multiply by number of days 
and divide by 72. 



6 per cent., multiply by number of days 
and divide by 60. 

7 per cent., multiply by number of days 
and divide by 52. 

8 per cent., multiply by number of days 
and divide by by 45. 

9 per cent., multiply by number of days 
and divide by 40. 

10 per cent., mifltiply by number of days 
and divide by 36. 

12 per cent., multiply by number of days 
and divide by 30. 

15 per cent., multiply by number of days 
and divide by 24. 

20 per cent., multiply by number of days 
and divide by 18. 

24 per cent., multiply by number of days 
and divide by 15. 

When the principal contains cents, 
point off four places from the right of the 
result to have dollars and cents. When 
the principal contains dollars only, point 
off two places, 

THERMOMETERS are instruments 
for measuring the temperature. They are 
made of a glass tube with a bulb at one 
end partly filled with alcohol or mercury, 
after the air has been expelled and then 
are hermetically closed. Mercury is best 
for high temperatures. In Fahrenheit, 
180 spaces are made from zero or freezing 
point to boiling point; the boiling point is 
marked 212 degrees, and the freezing point 
32 degrees; zero is marked 32 degrees be- 
low freezing point. 

In the Centigrade thermometer 100 
spaces are made from zero or freezing 
point to the boiling point. 

In Reaumur's the interval is divided into 
80. Zero is the freezing point, and 80 the 
boiling point. 

To change Centigrade into Fahrenheit, 
multiply by 9, divide by 5 and add 32. 

To change Fahrenheit into Centigrade, 
subtract 32, multiply by 5 and divide by 9. 

To change Reaumur into Fahrenheit, 
multiply those of Reaumur by 9, divide by 
4 and add 32; the sum will be the degrees 
on the scale of Fahrenheit. 

BAROMETERS.— A barometer consists 
of a tube containing quicksilver, closed at 
one end and open at the other, so that the 
pressure of air upon the open ends bal- 
ances the weight of the tube of quick- 
silver; and when the pressure of air upon 
the open surface of the quicksilver in- 
creases or decreases, the mercury rises or 
falls correspondingly. A barometer stands 
highest when there is a duration of frost 
or when northeasterly winds prevail. 

A barometer stands lowest when a thaw 
follows a long frost or when southwesterly 
winds prevail. 

SIGNS OF THE WEATHER. — If 
there be plenty of small clouds then ex- 
pect rain. 

If large clouds disappear, fair weather 
will follow. 



196 



THE SALT IN SEA WATER IS ABOUT 4 PEE CENT. 



If it rains au hour or two before the sun 
rises it will be fair before noon. 

If an hour or two after sunrise, it may 
rain all day. 

If the moon looks pale and dim, expect 
rain. 

If her natural color with a clear sky 
expect fair weather. 

If a ring encircles the moon, rain will 
follow. 

If the stars look larger than usual, but 
pale and dull, expect rain. 

If flowers smell stronger than usual, ex- 
pect rain very soon. 

If there be two currents of clouds it por- 
tends rain and thunder in summer. 

If there is plenty of dew on the grass 
after a fair day, there will be another fine 
day. , . ^ 

If there is little or no dew, and no wmd, 
rain will follow. 

If the setting sun is white and rayless, 
or if she goes down into a bank of 
clouds, expect bad weather. 

If the setting sun is red, in summer it 
denotes hot weather; in the winter, wind. 

PRACTICAL HINTS FOR A SEA 
VOYAGE. — It is the absence of a few 
trifling items that takes so much away 
from one's comfort during a sea trip. 

Pillows on board are generally abnor- 
mally hard, so take a down one in a silk 
cover. Also a canvas deck-chair, with the 
came marked plainly on the back. 

A linen cabin-bag to hang on the wall, 
with numerous pockets, and as nails are 
forbidden to be put in the sides of the ship, 
tapes or ribbons must be sewn on to hang 
it up by. 

A water-softener, for instance powdered 
borax, as the water is always very hard. 

The soap provided is generally of the 
commonest kind, go take a few cakes of 
tlae one you are accustomed to use. 

A little aperient medicine will be found 
useful, as there is so little exercise to be 
had. 

If the voyage is a long one, take a 
dirty-linen bag of strong canvas, with lock 
and key. 

Although there is a good library on all 
the vessels, still take some books for spe- 
cial reading, and needlework for leisure 
hours. 

Fill the travelling ink-bottle with extra 
ink. 

If you curl your front hair take a curling 
lamp and spirits, which should always be 
stood on the wash basin when using for 
fear of accident. 

MEASURING WALL OR CEILING 
PAPERS. — Walls. — Measure the number 
of feet round the room. (One entire side 
may be omitted for doors and windows.) 
Multiply this by the height of the room-;- 
between wainscoting and ceiling — and di- 
vide the result by 50. 

Ceiling. — Multiply length of room by 
width. 



Example. — A room 20 feet long by 15 
feet wide by 10 feet high. 

Walls 20 feet by 20 feet by 15 feet, 
equal to 55 feet, by 10 feet, equal to 500 
feet super.; divide by 50, equal to 11 
pieces required. 

Ceiling 20 feet by 15 feet, equal to 300 
feet, super.; divide by 50 feet, equal to 6 
pieces required. 

This calculation may be rather full, but 
an extra half piece of paper carefully put 
away, often saves repapering entirely at 
some future time. 

CHIROGRAPHY OR GRAPHOL- 
OGY is the science of reading the char- 
acter by the handwriting. 

Although this is quite a diflQcult study, 
requiring much practice, still a few exam- 
ples and hints may enable a person to 
teach himself sufliciently well so to enable 
him to read the writing of those whose 
character he wishes to decipher, making it 
both an instructive and interesting pas- 
time. 

Do not begin to examine any specimen of 
writing of less than teu lines, for each 
sign must repeat itself whenever possible, 
otherwise it cannot be considered as the 
ordinary hffnrl writing. 

EXAMPLES. 

1. Disconnected letters — Great concep- 
tion of ideas. 

2. Small, well connected letters — Practi- 
cal common sense. 

3. Letters well drawn out — Judgment 
and memory. 

4. Cramped letters, thin capitals — Want 
of judgment. 

5. Tails of letters extending well above 
and below the line — Exaggeration; good 
arithmetician. 

6. Well formed, regular letters — A wise 
and decided mind. 

7. Words ending with much flourish — 
Exuberance, imagination, false ideas. 

8. Neatly formed, intelligible letters — 
Clear ideas. 

9. Badly dotted i's — Inattention, 
thoughtlessness. 

10. Angular, quick writing — Curiosity. 

11. Plain, without flourishes, only the 
necessary elements — Simplicity, modesty. 

12. Pretentious flourishes — Vanity, de- 
sire of praise. 

13. Large pretentious writing — Affecta- 
tion. 

14. Angular, very large upright letters 
— Pride, self esteem. 

15. Fancy lettering — Whimsical, imagin- 
ary. 

16. All letters of the same height — 
Frankness. 

17. Words that diminish in size — 
Shrewdness. 

18. The same, but more prominent — de- 
ceit. 



THE ORIENTAL EMERALD IS A GREEN SAPPHIRE, 



197 



19. Words of letters of different size — 
Want of truth. 

20. The same, the letters diminishing in 
size — Unloyal, deceitful. 

21. Irregular letters, some slanting, 
some upright — Versatility. 

22. Stiffly formed, slanting letters — 
Jealousy. 

23. Very slanting letters — Deep, true af- 
fection. 

24. Rounded letters without angles — 
Goodness. 

25. Rounded, partly connected, some- 
what slanting letters— Meekness. 

26. Angular, stifE writing— Pompous- 
ness. 

27. Jerky writing — Irritable nerves. 

28. Weakly connected, weak letters, the 
t's crossed weakly — Indolence, effemin- 
ancy, 

29. Perfectly connected letters — Firm- 
ness, strength. 

30. Quickly formed, rapid writing — ■ 
Vivacity. 

31. Words ending abruptly to econo- 
mize ink — Economy. 

32. Small letters, abrupt endings — Ava- 
rice. 

33. Long space between words— Prodi- 
gality. 

34. The same, only more defined — spend- 
thrift. 

35. Well defined, round, heavy letters — 
Gluttony. 

36. Well punctuated words — Prudence. 

37. Too well punctuated, frequently 
after each word — Defiance, mictrust. 

38. Words sloping upwards from the 
line — Ambition. 

39. Ascending very little — Self-confi- 
dence. 

40. Words sloping downwards — Want of 
confidence. 

41. Some up and some down, very ir- 
regular — Feeble mind, decayed intellect. 

42. Rectilineal writing — Quick of deci- 
sion. 

43. A sinuous or snaky movement — Indi- 
rect way of attaining the end. 

44. The same to such a degree that the 
lines are serpentine in form — Diplomacy. 

45. A word ending with an upright 
flourish — Will fight all obstacles. 

46. With a downward flourish — Energy. 

47. With a rounded flourish — Ambitious 
to please. 

48. With an inverted stroke — Despotic. 

49. With a hook — Avarice. 

50. A line before a sentence — Prudence. 

51. A line between words — Lucidness 
of the brain. 

52. A well closed a or o — Fond of 
money. 

53. A well opened a or o — Spends freely. 

54. A divided m — Doubtful of one's 
abilities. 

55. A contracted m — Want of judgment. 

56. A t crossed thick and heavy just 
above the letters — Stubbornness. 



57. A t crossed indiscriminately — Bad 
temper. 

58. A well crossed t — Energy. 

59. A t crossed above the line — Despotic, 
poetical. 

60. A t crossed below the centre line — 
Obedience. 

61. A t without any crossing — Disorder. 

62. A t crossed sloping upward — Con- 
tradictory. 

63. A t crossed sloping downward — 
Self opinionated. 

64. A t crossed with decision — Enter- 
prising. 

65. A t crossed on back only — Slow to 
decide. 

66. A t crossed firmly ending with an 
imperceptible hook — Tenacity. 

67. A t crossed indecisively — Critical. 

68. A t crossed with a very long stroke 
— Impatience. 

69. A t not crossed, looking like i's — 
Amiable and good tempered. 

70. A y very long and looped — Fond of 
praise; quick to confide and poetical. 

71. A y without loops, ending in a long, 
straight line — Quick of perception, pene- 
tration. 

72. A y looped from left to right, not 
right to left — Tenacious and constant. 

73. A y with a half-loop from right to 
left, unfinished and open — Obstinacy and 
stubbornness. 

74. Large heads to capital letters — Self- 
confidence and arrogance. 

75. The smaller the capital letters, the 
poorer the opinion of oneself. 

76. Pine writing with useless curves 
and flourishes shows conceit and self con- 
sciousness. 

77. Printed capital letters, the first let- 
ters of the word incurved — Egotism. 

78. Dark writing — Love of sport and 
games. 

79. Thin writing — Unemotional. 

80. When a long looped y, showing af- 
fection, and an uncrossed t, are com- 
bined in the same writing, it shows fickle- 
ness. 

PALMISTRY.— The left hand is al- 
ways the one chosen, as being nearer the 
heart, and the brain has more influence 
over it. Each hand has five lines: 

THE LIFE LINE.— Beginning be- 
tween the thumb and forefinger and ex- 
tending in a circle to the wrist. The 
length of life is in proportion to the length 
of this line. Each line crossing this line 
denotes some unpleasant occurrence. The 
larger the cross the greater the misfor- 
tune. The clearer and more distinct it is, 
the happier is the person's life. When 
deep and well defined it denotes a noble, 
energetic character. In most cases, one 
or more lines run from the natural line 
into the line of life; this indicates the 
partner of one's life. The point where 
the junction takes place, denotes the time 
of marriage; if at the commencement of 



198 



A DIAMOND CARAT IS 3-174 TROY GRAINS. 



the line, the marriage will take place 
early in life. If two lines unite with the 
line of lifi', there will be two husbands 
(or wives,) if no line joins it, the person 
will remain unmarried. 

THE NATURAL LINE.— This line be- 
gins at the forehnger and runs to the 
little finger. If the line is straight, 
continued and not crossed by lines, it de- 
notes health, good digestion, and an 
amiable disposition. Large crosses on the 
line signify imprudence, loss of property, 
high temper. 

THE TABLE LINE.— Begins under 
the little finger and ends under the fore- 
finger. If well defined and unbroken, the 
person will with care lead a happy life; 
if broken, great prudence is needed to 
avert misfortune. If well defined, an 
amorous disposition. If very broad, hap- 
piness in home life. When small lines 
issue from this one and run between the 
fingers, and terminate at the base of the 
little finger, it denotes health and honor; 
if at the ring finger success in love; if 
between both these fingers sorrow and 
disappointment; if between the fore and 
middle finger, a large sura of money will 
some day be lost, by cheating or otherwise. 

THE LIVER LINE. — This runs from 
the outside of the hand under the little 
finger to the base of the forefinger. If it 
is straight, complete and tolerably long, it 
signifies a robust constitution, merry dis- 
position and great intelligence. If short 
and broken, it foretells sickness and death. 
If it throws out branches near its com- 
mencement it signifies wit, acuteness and 
presence of mind. 

THE WRIST LINE.— From the ring 
finger there commonly runs one or more 
lines into the table line; these denote the 
various inclinations of the heart. When 
the wrist line is perfect and unbroken it 
signifies good fortune, health, strength 
and success. If broken, it portends a long 
life and final success after many hard- 
ships. 

THE THUMB. — Is the most useful fin- 
ger we possess; in palmistry it is divided 
into three parts, the root or base, the part 
between the upper and lower joints and 
the upper or nail part. If the latter 
be long and well-developed, the person has 
Bound judgment and a large amount of 
perception. If it is thick and clumsy, it 
shows little intellectual powers; short and 
thin a lack of logical powers. A large, 
long thumb denotes strength of charac- 
ter. A small thumb, an easily influenced 
person. 

THE FINGER. — Smooth fingers, hav- 
ing joints that are not prominent, an im- 
pulsive nature. Knotty fingers with 
prominent joints, a systematical and or- 
derly nature. 

Short fingers, quick judgment. 



Long fingers, slowly formed judgment. 
Very short fingers, impatience and cruelty. 
Very long fingers denote cowardice. 

Thick fingers denote luxury. 

Stiff, unjointable fingers, stubborn and 
headstrong. 

Closely fitting fingers, avarice. 

Badly closed fingers, curiosity and sym- 
pathy. 

Small bunches on finger tips, a sensitive 
nature. 

A short first finger, activity and quick 
decision. 

A long one with pointed tip, superstition 
and sensuality. 

Of an average length, with square tips, 
desire for truth. 

A long, flat middle finger, a morbid dis- 
position. 

Long and pointed, selfishness. 

Long and square tipped, a grave, seri- 
ous nature. 

A pointed third or ring finger, frivolous, 
restless nature. 

Square tipped, a systematical, methodi- 
cal person. 

When this finger is almost as long as the 
second it denotes a hazardous disposition. 

A long little finger, a love of informa- 
tion. 

A very short one, good tact. 

With pointed tip, trickery and slyness. 

Square tipped, common sense. 

When almost as long as the third fin- 
ger, wisdom and philosophy; when almost 
as long as the second, a scientific mind. 

TO TAKE IMPRESSIONS OF 

HANDS.— (1) Slightly wet the end of a 
stick of Indian ink, rub it on the palm of 
the hand and press the palm lightly on 
paper laid on a cushion. The paper should 
have a rough surface, or blotting paper 
would do. 

(2) Mix water color paint with glycer- 
ine and wet the palm with this, press- 
ing it on the paper in the same way. 
These methods are both accurate and 
simple. 

(3) Hold a sheet of soft paper some- 
what above the chimney of a lighted lamp; 
wlien it is covered with soot press the 
palm firmly on it, and then again onto 
a clean sheet of soft white paper. 

FORTUNE TELLING BY CARDS.— 

In telling fortunes by cards the ace ranks 
highest, then the king, queen, knave, etc. 
The order and value of each suit is 
as follows: Clubs, mostly porteuding hap- 
piness and good business matters, they 
seldom mean anything bad. Hearts sig- 
nify love making and good friends. Dia- 
monds, money. Spades, worry, sickness 
and loss of money. To do a wish. This 
is quite old fashioned, but truthful method: 
If a married lady lay the cards, her 
husband must be the king of the same 
snit as herself. If a single lady she may 
select any king for her sweetheart. The 



GOLD HAS BEEN OCCASIONALLY DISCOVEKED IN COALS. 



199 



knaves of the same suit are men's 
thoughts, so that they may know what 
they are thinking of, counting nine cards 
from where they are placed. Shuffle the 
cards well, while seriously and earnestly 
wishing all the time for one thing; cut 
them once, observing what card is cut. 
Shuffle and deal in three parcels; look 
carefully over every parcel and if that 
particular cut card comes near to one- 
self, or next to ace of hearts, the wish 
will be granted. But if the nine of 
spades is next to you there will be dis- 
appointment. It may be tried three times, 
the majority ruling. 

When several diamonds come together 
it means money; several clubs, business 
and entertainments; several hearts, friend- 
ship and love; several spades, trouble and 
vexation. 

Each card varies according to its posi- 
tion and the manner it is surrounded. 

FORTUNE TELLING IN TEACUPS. 
— Drain all the tea out of the cup, then 
turn it round three times. Turn the 
cup upside down on the saucer. Past 
events are in the grounds at the bottom, 



the present and future on the sides and 
near the edge. Drops of tea mean tears. 

Leaves clear of dots show friends, and 
when two leaves stand together in a clear 
.space they are good friends. A hard 
or well definod leaf is a man, a broken 
or feathery leaf a woman and a leaf 
over the tdge of the cup means trouble. 

Dots close round the leaf are enemies, 
Iwo dots, an engagement, three a mar- 
ii&ge, scon when near the edge, Foui* 
dots are a letter; when a single dot 
IS near the four it will bring good new?. 
Many small dots near, not very good news. 

Four or five small dots in a row mean 
a journey, and if they lead to a group 
of dots it mt'ans a party, ball or wed- 
dmg. 

A row of large dots, more than five, 
is trouble. 

A clover leaf — ^A very lucky sign. 

A coffin — Long illness. 

A child — You wilj have great expenses. 

A dog — Faithful friends. 

A cross — Misfortu'ie. 

A letter — Welcome news. 



200 MERCURY IS FOUND IX SLATE, LIMESTONE AND COAL STRATA. 



Art 



PAINTING.— Colors fcr painting are 
either primary, secondary or tertiary. 

Primary colors are not compounded; 
iliey are red, yellow and blue, to which 
iire added black and white. Secondary 
colors are obtained by mixing two pri- 
maries; yellow and blue produce green, 
red and blue purple, red and yellow or- 
ange. 

Tertiary colors arc obtained by mixing 
secondaries and primaries; orange and 
purple produce brown, etc. 

The smaller brushes are finely pointed 
sable hair. The larger brushes are flat 
hog's bristles. 

NECESSARY COLORS FOR LAND- 
SCAPE PAINTING.— Chinese white; 
chrome, aureolin or raw sienna yellows; 
indigo, cobalt, Prussian and ultramarine 
bines, madder, lake, burnt sienna, scar- 
let, vermilion or Venetian reds; emerald 
terra vert greens and bitumen; madder 
and Vandyke browns; ivory and India 
ink blacks. 

NECESSARY COLORS FOR POR- 
TRAIT OR FIGURE PAINTING.— Ver- 
milion and Indian yellow for flesh tints. 

Vermilion, madder and lake for carna- 
tion tints; vermilion, raw sienna and 
ultramarine for half tones or shades. 

Venetian red and raw umber for deep 
shades. These, with Chinese white, ivory 
black and cobalt are all that are 
required in figure painting. 

PAINTS. — Paints are pigments; these 
form the color and material for the paints. 
They are mixed either with oil for oil 
paints or water for water paints. Oil 
paints are usually mixed with poppy, lin- 
seed, or nut oils. _ The linseed is boiled 
before being used in order that the paint 
should dry quicker, and it is thinned 
with turpentine also before using. 

Mineral paints are used for painting on 
china; these come in tubes the same as 
oil paints. 

WATER COLOR PAINTS.— These 
are manufactured more simply than oil 
paints, the pigments being first ground 
extremely fine and then mixed with a 
solution of gum or glue. The paste is 
then allowed to dry, after being stamped 
in the form of cakes. To facilitate the 
mixing with water, glycerine is sometimes 
added to the cake of paint, which then 
remains moist and soft. 

Six colors are enough to use at one 
time, and three brushes are ample. 



PALETTES.— Are made of mahogany, 
of satin and other light colored woods, 
the latter being preferable, as the colors 
are best seen on them. Palettes are 
made oval and oblong shaped, light in 
weight, thin, and so perforated as to rest 
well balanced on the thumb. Wooden 
palettes should be rubbed with as much 
raw linseed fell as they can imbibe. When 
this is well dry the wood will not stain 
by the absorption of color. Keep the 
palette free from indentations and 
scratches and always clean it; the color 
never being allowed to harden on the 
wood. 

THE EASEL.— These are of various 
forms, the most convenient being the rack 
€asel, which allows the painter to raise 
or lower his work with speed and con- 
venience. The easel should stand firmly 
and not be likely to be overset by any 
slight cause. 

THE MAHL STICK OR REST.— This 
is to guide the right hand or arm when 
particular steadiness is required, as is 
the case in painting small and minute 
details. It should be light, yet firm, usu- 
ally formed of cane or lance wood. The 
lower end is held in the left hand, while 
the upper extremity, which is covered 
with a soft round ball or pad of leather, 
to prevent injury, rests on the canvas or 
some other convenient support. 

CHINA PAINTING.— In commencing 
the study of china painting let the student 
begin with over-glaze in preference to un- 
der-glaze, for in the former all the faults 
are apparent on the surface, while in the 
latter the work looks well until it Is 
glazed and fired, when the bad parts be- 
come prominent and give disappointing 
work. Choose earthenware or china with 
a smooth, even glaze, without any specks. 
The following list of implements are ab- 
solutely necessary: 

IMPLEMENTS— 

1 steel palette knife. 
1 glass muller. 
1 hand rest. 
1 fine steel pointer. 
1 medium sized dabber. 
1 small dabber in quill. 
1 sable crow writer. 
1 glazed plate. 

Two or three sizes camel's hair brushes. 
Several glazed 6 or 8 inch tiles, for pal- 
ettes. 



IRON" IS FOUND IN EVERY KIND OF ROCK. 



201 



Turpentine. 

Fat oil of turpentine. 

Spirits of lavender or oil of cloves, and 
for more advanced pupils an ivory palette 
and a knife. 

COLORS. — Mineral colors in tubes are 
the paints to be used for over-glaze china, 
water colors for under-glaze. 

For the tubes, take out a very little 
paint at a time, as it requires only a 
small quantity to do the w^ork and the 
paint dries rapidly. A little oil of lavender 
added prevents this somewhat. Avoid as 
much as possible, in light shades espe- 
cially, painting one coat over another, ex- 
cept in the case of heavy foliage, etc., as 
an under coat will be likely to blister an 
upper coat when the china is fired. Use 
a steel pointer to remove surplus paint, 
especially in the stamens of flowers. For 
unglazed china, moist water colors are 
the best. These are worked with a little 
water and specially prepared china meg- 
lip, which takes the place of oil, but if 
too much of this is used it is difficult to 
dry the work; but then it prevents blis- 
tering. These colors require to be drie(} 
well at a fire before retouching after the 
first washes have been put on. 

DABBERS. — Dabbers are used for 
back grounds and other broad washes to 
lie flat and even after the color has been 
laid with an ordinary brush. Be careful 
not to dabble everything; this practice is 
a mistake, for in many cases, such as 
leaves, flowers, birds, etc., brush marks 
judiciously left help the appearance. 

The dabber is useful when roundness 
is required, and is indispensable for flesh 
tints, fruits and draperies. 

TURPENTINE AND FAT-OIL are 
the mediums used in china painting, and 
if the colors have to be kept moist for a 
large wash or for an unusual length of 
time, a few drops of spirits of lavender 
will be an assistance. This will cause 
the painting to adhere better to the china 
when worked upon afterward. 

Make the fat-oil by pouring a little 
turpentine into a saucer; leave it exposed 
to the air when the spirit will evaporate, 
making the saucer sticky. Add a little 
more turpentine every day for about three 
weeks and there will then be plenty to 
fill a small bottle, to which add a little 
turpentine. 

BRUSHES AND THEIR CARE.— Se- 
lect square ended brushes with eveu length 
hairs. 

Use the crow-writer for outlining, as 
the/ cannot be made with a short-haired 
brush. 

For strippling use a small sable water- 
color brush and another for Indian ink. 

If painting every day wash the brushes 
[With hot soap and water before putting 



them away, and always keep them and 
the palette perfectly clean. 

TO SKETCH THE WORK.— If the 

student has a knowledge of drawing, 
sketch the work with Indian ink, carmine, 
or smoke. If the latter, hold a saucer 
or tile over the flame of a candle and 
use the carbon which it collects with a 
little turpentine. 

For tracing the sketch use the process 
pouncing. Arrange a piece of tracing 
paper over the design and with a fine, 
hard pencil make a careful outline of the 
drawing. When finished place it on a 
cushion or anything soft and prick along 
every line with a fine needle. 

Arrange the tracing on the plaTe, se- 
cure it at the corners with a wafer and 
dust over with a little black lead or fine 
charcoal powder; in this way the drawing 
will be transferred to the plate, then 
sketch it with Indian ink, afterward re- 
move all the dust with a soft brush or 
cloth, or it may injure the painting. 

PAINTING ON TERRA COTTA.— 
First treat the whole subject in light and 
shade with white enamel, using it thinly 
for shadows and thickly in the lights. 
More oil is required in the enamel, as un- 
glazed pottery is more absorbent than 
the glazed. 

Never fill the brush with enamel, but 
take on only what the tip will hold, and 
replenish the brush for every brush-mark. 
White enamel is difficult to lay on cleanly 
and smoothly without much practice. 
After the design is painted on in this 
manner, it must be fired, and if the white 
has been put on sufficiently thick, the de- 
sign will be glazed. Then tint it with 
the ordinary china painting colors and 
have it refired. 

Colors should be very subdued on terra 
cotta; pale yellows, white, dull greens, 
browns and a little light blue. 

Colors can be mixed with the enamel 
for the first firing, but there is no ad- 
vantage in this, for the enamel is too 
rough a surface for shading on, and must 
have a second firing before it can be fin- 
ished. If tried, let the proportions be 
about four of enamel to one of color. 
^ PHOTOGRAPHY.— This article being 
limited, we can only give a few general di- 
rections to work the interesting process of 
photography; however, these will be found 
sufficient to guide the beginner in her first 
attempts, and lead her, with a little prac- 
tice, to obtain very good pictures. 

THE APPARATUS.— Cameras of all 
sizes are made for special purposes. To 
the amateur we recommend the 6%x4% 
or 7x5 in size; either of these is large 
enough to obtain artistic effects. Do not 
buy a flimsy apparatus, for no good work 
is done with inferior tools. Expensive 
cameras are not, however, necessary, the 



202 



GOLD IS YELLOW, COPPER RED, IRON" GRAY, LEx\.D BLUE. 



principal thing is to liave a good lens. 

A rectilinear lens of 10 inches back fo- 
cus, answers both for portraits, landscapes 
and copying on 5x7 and 6^/2x8^^ plates. 
These are sold with a set of diaphragms, 
on which will be found full explanations 
how to use. 

THE EXPOSURE.— The time depends 
on the nature of the object, its lighting and 
the size of the diaphragm employed. The 
exposure should be about: 

One-half second for a panoramic view. 

One second for an open landscape. 

Two seconds for an ordinary landscape. 

Three seconds when the objects in the 
foreground are near. 

Portraits in a room with full aperture 
from 3 to 4 seconds in good light. 

The beginner is generally inclined to 
under-expose, or to expose instantaneously. 
This requires great experience, and to do 
so the object should be strongly lighted in 
tne sun or a flash light, and use a reilector 
to soften the shadows. 

The exposure for interiors varies accord- 
ing to the light of the room; these may re- 
quire twenty minutes, when half as many 
seconds would be sufficient for an outside. 

THE PLATES.— Use only ortho-chro- 
matic plates, and a light, yellow screen. 
This will require an exposure twice as 
long, but the picture will be a better color, 
for these plates are sensitive to green and 
yellow, while the others are not. Do not 
use a yellow screen when exposing instan- 
taneously. 

DEVELOPMENT.— Prepare the three 
following solutions: 

A — Water, 16 ounces. 

Granulated sulphite of soda, 240 grains. 

B — Water, IG ounces. 

Granulated carbonate of soda, 240 
grains. 

Bromide of potassium, 5 grains. 

C — Water, 10 ounces. 

Bromide of potassium, 1 ounce. 

These all keep well. 

To develop, mix 5 ounces of A with ^ 
ounces of B, and add 15 grains of pyi-ogal- 
lic acid. Immerse the exposed plate into 
this solution. In a minute or minute and 
a half, the blacks on the plate will appear, 
and if shorter after the details make their 
appearance the exposure is normal, and 
let the action proceed, rocking the tray 
from time to time. If the details appear 
almost simultaneously with the high lights 
or blacks, then the plate has been over ex- 
posed. In this case dilute the solution 
with water and add 10 grains of pyrogallic 
and about 5 or G drops of C. If the de- 
tails do not appear within about a minute 
after the high lights, the exposure has been 
too short; dilute with more water. Lastly, 
if the plate has been exposed instantane- 
ously, dilute with three, four or even five 
times as much water, according to the ra- 
pidity of the exposure. 



FIXING. — After development the plate 
is immersed for one or two minutes into 
water acidified with about three per cent, 
of citric acid, then well washed and fixed 
into a solution of: 

Water, 20 ounces. 

Hyposulphite of soda, 4 ounces. 

Bisulphite of soda solution, 1 ounce. 

Chrome alum soda solution, 60 grains. 

Into which it should remain until the 
whiteness has disappeared from the black; 
however, it is safer to leave it a little while 
longer. Afterward wash the plate in 
water to eliminate every trace of hyposul- 
phite, leaving it in two hours, often re- 
newed, then place it on a drying rack. 
All these operations must be done in a 
dark room lighted by a ruby lamp. 

TO INTENSIFY.— This is done by day- 
light; the plate is immersed until bleached 
through to the back into a solution of: 

Water, 16 ounces. 

Bichloride of mercury. 200 grains. 

Hydrochloric acid, 15 drops. 

Then wash in three changes of water for 
fifteen or twenty minutes, and then im- 
merse the plate into a solution of: 

Water, 16 ounces. 

Sulphite of soda, 350 grains, until 
blackened through. Wash the plate and 
the operation is complete. 

PRINTING.— The proofs are printed 
on collodio silver, chloride paper that can 
be purchased. Follow the explicit in- 
structions found on each package. Print 
a little darker than the picture should be 
when finished, for the toning will bleacli 
them. 

TONING.— Place the prints face down 
in a tray of clean water for from 15 to 
20 minutes, changing it two or three times; 
then give them the prepared toning bath. 
Leave them in until they assume a good 
deep brown or metallic grey tint, then 
place in a tray of clean water. Heating 
the bath till quite warm will hasten the 
action. 

Rinse again in cold water and place ''a 
a hyposulphite bath, one-quarter as strong 
as that used for negatives, using three 
times its bulk of water. Never use the 
same hypo for prints as for negatives. 
Leave in about 15 minutes while stirring 
frequently. Keep the hypo for further 
use. 

MOUNTING. — Trim the prints before 
toning, remove them one by one from the 
water, drain off all surplus water and 
place in a pile face down, on a clean sur- 
face. Apply with a brush to the upper 
one, a thin coat of paste, place it carefully 
on a card-mount, rub over the entire sur- 
face with a soft cloth so it lies perfectly 
smooth on the card. Continue the same 
with the others. Place them between 
blotting paper with a light weight on top 
till quite dry. 



GOLD IS TOO SOFT TO BE USED PURE. 



203 



Pyrography or Poker Work 



PYROGRAPHY— Pyrography is the 
burning on wood or leather with a plati- 
num point, which is previously heated 
for the purpose. It is a very interesting 
as well as an effective- art, as the most 
various and odd effects can be procured, 
and it can be learned in a very short 
time by anyone who knows a little draw- 
ing. 

THE BURNING MACHINE.— This 
consists of a bottle which must be kept 
three-quarters full of benzine, being care- 
ful to remember that it is very inflamma- 
ble. Out of this bottle are two rubber 
pipes, each one leading in an opposite di- 
rection. At the end of one pipe is the 
above mentioned platinum point, the es- 
sential part of the machine. This is to 
be heated over an alcohol lamp which 
comes with the api^aratus. In the mean- 
time the rubber ball, which forms the end 
of the other pipe must be pressed gently 
but continually until the point begins to 
glow, and the burning is to be begun. 

THE WORK.— The left hand must con- 
tione to press the rubber-ball all the tim ■, 
to keep the point glowing. Hold the 
handle with the point and follow the lines 
of the drawing, previously applied to the 
wood or leather. Special attention must 



be given to the acquisition of a light hand; 
just glide over the lines, for a prolonged 
staying will cause a hole, and by inter- 
rupting the lines destroy the original fea- 
tures of the design. This is for the out- 
lines. For the shading and coloring, 
which gives the life to the work, — expres- 
sion to faces, flowers and life-like pic- 
tures, the more advanced pupil can obtain 
various other points, besides the outlining 
ones. There is a blowing point which 
does not touch the work, but is to be held 
just over it, besides very large points for 
filling in back grounds of large pieces 
of furniture, etc. Charming effects can 
also be procured by combining painting 
with the burning, colors being specially 
made for this purpose. Oil and water 
colors may be substituted for these. 

For the back and inside of furniture 
pieces, apply walnut stain very thinly, 
twice if necessary, using a brush for this 
purpose. 

Varnishing with white shellac adds a 
shiny gloss which many prefer to the dull 
surface of the burnt wood, and at the 
same time it preserves the burning. De- 
signed pieces can be purchased by those 
who do not draw or have no time to make 
their own designs. 



204 SILVER CAN BE BEATEN" INTO PLATES; 110,000 MAKE AN INCH. 



Games 



GOLF. — Golf is an amusement said to 
Ine peculiar to Scotland, where it is very 
ancient. It is commonly played on 
rugged ground covered with bents or short 
grass, upon the seashore, and are called 
links. 

The object of the game is to put a small 
gutta percha ball into a series of holes in 
the least number of strokes, and it can be 
played by either two persons, one against 
the other, called "singles," or by two 
persons against two others called "four- 
somes," and the players on either side are 
called partners. 

TO PLAY GOLF. — Small holes are 
made in the ground at a distance of a 
quarter of a mile from each other and so 
to encompass the whole field. 

The game is won by the party that 
lodges his ball in the different holes in 
succession with the fewest strokes. The 
art of the game consists, first, at the out- 
set from each hole, of striking the ball to 
a great distance, and in a proper direc- 
tion, so that it may rest upon smooth 
ground; and secondly, which is of the 
greatest importance when near the hole, 
of so proportioning the force and direction 
of the stroke or putting, as it is called, 
that the ball may with few strokes be 
driven into the hole. 

BALLS. — All golf balls are made of 
gutta percha or some compound in which 
this largely enters. The sizes 27 or 271^2 
are preferred for all round play. 

Frost causes them to crack or split, 
therefore keep them in a moderately warm 
room when not in use during the winter. 

CLUBS. — A driver, a cleek, a lofting 
iron and a putter will be quite sufHcient 
clubs for a novice; experts use several 
others. A driver is the longest driving 
club there is; it is used to drive from the 
tee or wherever the ball lies and long 
distance is required. A cleek is the long- 
est of the iron clubs. A lofting iron for 
pitching a ball very high. A putter is 
used whpre a short stroke is intended. 

A uiblic is also useful for getting a bail 
out of ruts. etc. 

TECHNICAL TERMS USED IN 
GOLF. — Approach. When the player is 
sufficiently near the hole to be able to 
drive the ball to the putting green, the 
stroke is called an "approach shot." 

Baff. To send the ball in the air by 
striking the ground with the sole of the 
club-head. 



Bent. Bent grass or rushes. 

Bogey. An invisible personage, who is 
credited with a certain score for each 
hole, against whose score each player is 
competing. 

Brassie. A wooden club with a brass 
sole. 

Bunker. Any rough, hazardous ground. 

Bye. Any hole or holes that remain 
to be played after the match is finished. 

Caddie. The person who carries the 
golfer's clubs. 

Cleek. An iron-headed club of great 
driving-power. 

Club. The implement with which the 
ball is struck. 

Dead. A ball is dead when it lies so 
near the hole that the put is a certainty. 

Fore. A warning cry to any person 
in the way of the stroke. 

Gobble. A term to express that if 
the ball had not gone in the hole it would 
have gone some distance beyond. 

Grip. The grasp, also the part of the 
handle covered with leather. 

Halved. When each side takes the 
same number of strokes. A drawn game. 

Hazard. Any bad ground, such as 
water, hill, long grass, road, etc. 

Head. The lowest part of the club. 

Hole. The space between the outcom- 
ing and incoming holes. 

Honor. The right to play off first. 

Jerk. To strike with a quick cut be- 
hmd the ball, and stop on reaching the 
ground. 

Links. The open ground on which golf 
is played. 

Loft. To elevate the ball. 

Mashie. A club between the niblic and 
the iron. 

Match. The game, or sides playing 
against each other. 

Miss the Globe. To fail to strike the 
ball. 

Nose. The front part of the club-head. 

Putt. To play the delicate game close 
to the hole. 

Scare. The narrow part of the club- 
head next to the handle. 

Scruff. Slightly raying the grass in 
striking. 

Set. A full set of clubs. 

Shaft. The handle or stick of the club. 

Sole. The flat bottom of the club-head. 

Spoons. Three different length wooden- 
headed clubs. 

Stance. The position of the player's 
J feet. 



AN INGOT OF SILVER WEIGHS 50 TO 60 POUNDS. 



205 



Stroke. Hittiug the ball with the club. 

Stymie. When the opponent's ball lies 
in tlie line of your putt. 

Tee. The pat of sand on which the 
ball is placed for the first stroke. 

Top. To hit the ball above its centre. 

Upright. A club is upright when its 
head is not at a very obtuse angle to the 
shaft. 

Wrist Shot. Less than half a shot, 
played with au iron club. 

CROQUET. — This game consists of 
striking balls from the starting-peg 
through hoops to the peg at iTne opposite 
extremity, then the balls are driven back 
to the starting-peg. The game may be 
played by any number not exceeding eight, 
but four is the best game. If only two 
play, each player may take two balls, and 
if eight there should be two sets. Each 
player takes a mallet, a ball and a cro- 
quet clip of the same color or number; 
the clip is to indicate the hoop at which 
in his turn he aims, but its use is net 
essential to the game. 

ARRANGEMENT OP THE HOOPS. 

— The ground should be an oblong grass 
plot, and tiie hoops be fixed in the ground 
on definite principles. Drive a peg in at 
one end of the ground and a turning-peg 
at the other end; from each of these pegs 
a twelve feet space intervenes; here fix a 
hoop, then another space of ten feet, 
fix a second hoop, then a space of eight 
feet, and this point forms the base, one side 
of which at a distance of twenty feet and 
succeeding each other at intervals of ten 
feet, three hoops are driven in, thus form- 
ing a square., the starting-point leading into 
its centre, and the turning-peg leading 
from it. On a smaller ground the dis- 
tances may be proportionally contracted. 

THE IMPLEMENTS are balls, mal- 
lets, starting and turning-pegs, croquet 
clips or markers, hoops or arches. A mal- 
let must be held within twelve inches of 
its head. 

TECHNICAL TERMS USED IN 
■ CROQUET.— I. Roquet. To strike an- 
other ball with your own. 

II. Croquet. When two balls are in 
contact the player strikes the other way, 
either with or without putting the foot on 
the other player's ball, as may be pre- 
viously arranged. 

III. A loose croquet is made by striking 
the opponent's ball without putting the 
foot on your own ball. In taking "two 
off," it is, however, necessary that the 
ball should be seen to move. 

IV. Wired. A ball is in contact with 
a hoop so as to prevent it going through. 

V. Brids'e Ball. One that has passed 
the first arch. 

VI. Dead Ball. One in Band after 
having roqueted another. 



VII. To Peg. To play for either of the 
pegs in regular order. 

VIII. The Tour. The run given to each 
player till he fails to strike through a 
hoop. 

IX. To Dismiss a Ball. Is to croquet 
it to a distance. 

X. Rover. You become a rover when 
you have completed the hoops from point 
to point, and instead of hitting the start- 
iug-peg and retiring, you prefer to strike 
your ball to any part of the ground cro- 
queting friends or foes. 

XI. The terms, side stroke, straight 
stroke, following ball, overrunning a 
bridge, etc., explain themselves. 

PING-PONG.— This game is a fashion- 
able table tennis, deriving its name from 
the peculiar sound made by the racquet 
while striking the ball. It can be played 
on a billiard or dining table, or else a 
special one, which can be either nine 
feet by five or seven by nine, wiHiout a 
cloth in preference. 

The game is played by two or four 
persons. The field is the table. The 
height of the nets vary from five to seven 
inches. The lower the net the moi-e diffi- 
cult to play. The racquets are the same 
as those used in battledore; they may be 
slightly warmed before using. The Falls 
are made of hollowed celluloid, smaller 
than tennis-balls. 

RULES. — The rules are the same as 
iri lawn-tennis, only no overhand service 
is allowed. 

The players stand one at each end of 
the table; the one who first delivers the 
ball is the server, the other the striker- 
out. These alternate at the end of each 
game. 

There is no second service. 

In serving if the ball touch the net 
while passing, it is a let. 

As there are no court marks on the 
table, the ball striking any part is in 
play. 

Should the ball strike any object be- 
yond the table before it falls on the table 
itself, it counts against the player. This 
excludes the net or post. No volleying 
is allowed unless agreed on, and the ball 
must alight on the table before being 
served. 

The server wins a point if the service 
fails to be returned, or in return if it 
falls off the table. 

Either player winning the first stroke, it 
is 15 for the winner. 

Either player winning his second stroke, 
the score is 30. 

Either player winning his third stroke, 
the score is 40. 

If both players have won 40 in all, the 
next stroke is scored advantage, and 
should the same player win the next 
stroke, the game is his. If he loses the 



206 



CARBURET OF IRON IS BLACK LEAD. 



next stroke the score is deuce and the 
next winning stroke is advantage, and so 
on until either player wins the two strokes 
following the score of deuce, when he 
scores the game. 

The winner of the first six games wins 
a set. 

The game can also be scored by points, 
changing the service after every five points 
scored. 

THE NET. — This is generally hand- 
made, from five to seven inches high, 
slightly elastic and linen-bound. This is 
stretched on wooden pegs having leather 
buttons, and are fastened to the table 
with clamps. An outfit should have half 
a dozen bats or battledores and twelve 
balls. 

LAWN TENNIS. — Lawn tennis is gen- 
erally played on a grass plot or one built 
of cinders and earth, by one player against 
another, by one against two, or by four 
players, two on each side, with balls and 
racquet bats. 

THE COURT.— The court is 27 feet 
wide and 78 feet long, divided across the 
centre by a net attached to two upright 
posts. The height of the net is 4 feet 
at the posts and 3 feet at the centre. 
At each end of the court, parallel with 
the net are the base lines, the extremities 
connected by the side lines. The half- 
court line is halfway between the side 
fines and parallel with them. The service 
lines are 21 feet from the net and parallel 
with it. 

THE BALLS.— The size of the balls 
must not be less than 2y2 inches in di- 
ameter and two ounces in weight. 

THE GAME. — The decision of the um- 
pire shall be final. 

I. The players stand on opposite sides 
of the net; the player who first delivers 
the ball is called the server-out. 

II. At the end of each game the striker- 
out becomes server, and the server, striker- 
out, and so on alternately throughout the 
other games. 

III. The server stands with one foot 
beyond the base-line, the other foot within 
or upon the base-line and delivers the 
service from the right and left courts 
alternately, beginning from the right. 

IV. The balls served must drop within 
the service-line without touching the net. 
diagonally opposite to that from which 
the striker serves it. 

V. It is a fault if the service be de- 
livered from the wrong court, also a fault 
if the server does not slant in the manner 
as stated above, or if the ball served drops 
in the net or beyond the service-line, or 
if it drops out of court or in the wrong 
court. 

VI. A fault must not be taken. 



VII. A fault may not be claimed after 
the next service has been delivered. 

VIII. Volleying is to strike the ball back 
before it has touched the ground. 

IX. The striker-out may not volley the 
service. 

X. The server shall not serve until the 
striker-out is ready. If the striker at- 
tempts to return the service, he shall be 
deemed to be ready. 

XI. The ball having been returned must 
be kept in play either by volleying it or 
striking it back after the first bounce. 
A ball bouncing twice is out of play. 

XII. The server wins a stroke if the 
stiTker-out volleys in such a way that 
the ball would fall within the opponent's 
court. 

XIII. Two consecutive faults count a 
stroke against the server, or if he fails 
to return the ball in play, or if he returns 
it so that it drops outside any of the lines 
which bound his opponent's court, or if 
he loses a stroke. 

XIV. Either player winning his first 
stroke the score is called fifteen for that 
player; the second won by the same player 
raises his score to thirty, the third stroke 
to forty, and the fourth stroke is game. 
Should he lose it the score returns to 
deuce, or three strokes, and so on until 
either player wins the two strokes im- 
mediately following the score of deuce, 
when the game is scored for that pTayer. 

XV. The player winning the first six 
games wins a set, but if both players win 
five games the score is called games-all, 
and the next winning game is scored ad- 
vantage game for that player, and if he 
wins the next game he wins the set. If 
he loses the next game, it is again called 
games-all, and so on till either player 
wins the two games following the score of 
games-all, when he wins the set. 

XVI. The players change sides at the 
end of every set, or the umpire may direct 
a change at the end of every game, if 
ho considers either side at a distinct ad- 
vantage owing to the wind, the sun or 
other cause. 

ODDS. — A bisque is one stroke which 
may not be taken after the service is 
delivered. The server may not take a 
bisque after a fault, but the striker-out 
may do so. 

Half fifteen is one stroke given at the 
beginning of the second and every subse- 
quent game of a set. 

Fifteen is one stroke given at the be- 
ginning of every game of a set. 

Half-thirty is one stroke given at the 
beginning of the first game, two strokes 
at the beginning of the second game, and 
so on alternately in all the other games of 
a set. 

Thirty is two strokes given at the be- 
ginning of every flrame of a .set. 



CAST-IEOlSr IS A SUPEECAEBUEET OF lEON". 



207 



Half-forty is two strokes at the Begib- 
ning of the first game, three strokes _ at 
the beginning of the second game, and 'so 
on. 

Forty is three strokes given at the be- 
ginning of every game of a set. 

Half Court. The players agree Ujpon 
which court the giver of the odds snail 
play, and he loses a stroke if the ball re- 
turned by him drops outside of any of 
the lines which bound that court. 

THREE AND FOUR - HANDED 
LAWN TENNIS.— The laws for the two- 
handed apply equally to these games, only 
the court must be 36 feet wide, the net 
the same height, and in all respects the 
same only within the side lines, at a dis- 
tance of 414 feet from it and parallel are 
drawn the service-lines. 

I. In three-handed tennis, the single 
player serves in each alternate game. 

II. In the four handed game the players 
deliver the service in turns. The partner 
of the player who served in the first game 
shall serve in the third, and the partner 
of the player who served in the second 
game shall serve in the fourth, and so 
on in the same order in all the subsequent 
games of a set. 

III. No player may return a service 
that has been delivered to his partner. 

IV. The ball served must drop within 
the service-line, half court-line and service 
hide-line of the court which is diagonally 
opposite to that from which it was served 
or upon any such line. 

SHUTTLE COCK TENNIS OR 
PAUME VOLANTE.— This now fashion- 
.nble game is built on the same lines as 
both shuttlecock and tennis, only it re- 
quires no net and the disk is different. It 
is played on a smooth, level lawn. 



It can be played by two, four, six or 
eight persons, one ball being required for 
each couple. With two the game resem- 
bles battledore and shuttlecock; with four 
it is more intricate. 

THE OUTFIT.— The outfit consists of 
tambourine shaped disks, and small rubber 
balls, somewhat larger than golf balls. 

THE GAME.— The players stand op- 
posite to each other, slightly over a hun- 
dred yards apart. If two are playing the 
game consists of sending the ball backward 
and forward and catching, poising, and 
pitching it the greatest number of times 
without letting it fall. 

If there be more than one couple, the 
ball is thrown criss-cross, and one must 
be continually watching his ball to know 
it among those crossing each other. The 
disk is held by the rim, and used as a bat 
to send the ball, the same as a racket. 
Every miss counts so many points against 
the score and so many catches are in its 
favor. The score may be 100 or 200 points 
or even more. 

BADMINTON.— Is a game similar to 
lawn tennis, but is played with shuttle- 
cocks instead of balls and over a higher 
net. It can be played in the house or in 
the open air, and is played by two, four, 
six or even more players, the numbers 
equally divided, and the sides standing op- 
posite to each other. 

The best sized rackets to use are from 
24 to 26 inches long. The best shuttle- 
cock is loaded 2% inches in length. The 
shuttle-cock is served and returned under 
the same provisions as lawn tennis, except 
if it falls to the ground it is counted as a 
miss to the player missing it and his 
side. 



208 



PIG-IRON IS CAST-IRON AS IT FLOWS FROM THE FURNACE. 



Sports 



AUTOMOBILING.— There are at pres- 
ent three kinds of automobiles in use; the 
electric, the steam aud the gasoline. The 
electric being the most simple, it is es- 
pecially adapted for ladies, as it is easily 
controlled, clean, noiseless and more com- 
fortable than any other class of vehicles, 
making the riding easy and pleasant. A 
few general instructions will be found use- 
ful at all times. 

DIRECTIONS. — Before inserting key, 
be sure that the controller handle stands 
perpendicular or in the "off" position. 

Before starting be sure that the foot 
brake is not set, but is iu the "off" posi- 
tion. 

Bring the vehicle up to full speed gradu- 
ally. 

In using the controller lever throw it 
from one notch to another quickly; these 
notches correspond to the forward speeds. 
Do not let the lever drag between the 
notches, or an arc may form, and burn the 
controller connections or may cause the 
battery to spark. 

Take ordinary grades at second speed. 

At extreme grades use the last notch. 

Always lock the vehicle before leaving 
the seat, and do not unlock until seated. 

When climbing grades do not shift con- 
troller more than necessary. It is better 
to set the controller on the last notch when 
approaching a steep grade, and let it re- 
main there until the summit is reacned. 

Turn corners slowly. 

Watch every movement, as the vehicle 
cannot see for itself. 

Note condition of volt-meter when run- 
ning the auto, and a little experience will 
soon enable one to estimate the amount of 
charge remaining. 

Do not discharge the battery below the 
voltage specified by the manufacturer. 

Read the voltage while the vehicle is 
running on smooth, level roads, with the 
controller on the last notch. 

Never light a match near the battery 
while charging. . ., , 

Never spark the battery while charging. 

Always re-charge promptly after using 
the vehicle. 

Avoid heating the cells in charging. 

Before connecting charging plugs, pull 
the controller back to the "off" position, 
and do not touch it while the current 
charge is still on. , ., , 

Alwavs open carriage body while charg- 
ing the battery by removing the deck back 
of seat. , - , . 

Replenish the electrolyte for lose in 



ordinary use ten parts water and one part 
sulphuric acid. When the loss is due to 
spilling in shipment use four parts water 
to one part sulphuric acid. 

TO REVERSE WHILE RIDING.— 
Press down the reverse lever projecting 
from the front seat on the left side. Then 
use the controller lever, the same as for 
forward motion. 

Always bring the vehicle to a standstill 
before reversing. To reverse while run- 
ning causes a strain on the principal parts 
and is likely to do much damage. 

TECHNICAL TERMS. 

THE AMMETER shows how much 
power is taken by the motor, with differ- 
ent roadway conditions. It also shows 
the condition of the various running parts. 

CONTROLLER.— Is the device to regu- 
late the speed of the wagon. 

KEY. — Plug to cut the electric circuit, 
so that the wagon cannot be run by others. 

RHEOSTAT. — An instrument to regu- 
late the flow of electricity when charging 
the battery. The "off" position. When 
the controller handle stands upright it is 
the "off" position. 





BICYCLING. 


CHAIN 


AND SPROCKET WHEELS. 


Teeth 


in Sprocket. Gear in inches. 


Front 


Rear 


18 


6 84 


21 


6 98 


25 


6 116 2-3 


26 


6 121 1-3 


21 


7 84 


24 


7 96 


26 


7 104 


28 


7 112 


20 


8 70 


22 


8 77 


24 


8 84 


28 


8 98 


18 


8 56 


24 


9 71 2-3 


26 


9 80 8-9 


27 


9 84 


27 and 28 on Tandems only. 




CHAINLESS GEARS. 


Teeth in Sprocket Gear in inches 


Front 


^^^^ 


15 


11 1^ 


17 


11 ^^ 


19 


11 92 



IRON IS FIBROUS. GOLD IS CRYSTALLINE. 



309 



TO FIND THE GEAR OF A 

WHEEL. — Multiply the number of teeth 
in the sprocket by the diameter of the 
wheel in inches, and then divide by the 
number in the hub or small sprocket on 
the rear wheel. 

Example. To find the gear of a 28-inch 
"wheel with 18 teeth in the crank sprocket, 
and 7 teeth in the hub or small sprocket: 

28X18=504-^7=72 gear. 

HOW TO MOUNT A BICYCLE.— 

There are two ways for ladies to mount, 
the still and the moving, called also the 
pedal mount. Always stand on the left 
side of the machine. 

THE STILL MOUNT.— The right 
pedal must point upward toward the 
handle-bar. Place the right foot on this 
pedal and rise easily while dividing the 
skirt evenly on the saddle. The right 
loot on the pedal gives the machine suflB- 
cieut impetus to keep the equilibrium until 
the saddle is reached. 

THE PEDAL OR MOVING MOUNT. 

— Walk a few steps on the left side of 
the machine, and when the pedal points 
to the ground and is commencing to 
ascend place the foot on it, and rise gently 
with it, at the same time pass the right 
foot quickly to the right pedal. Remain 
on the pedals for a few turns while ar- 
ranging the skirt, and slowly settle down 
onto the saddle. 

This is the most graceful and the easiest 
mount. 

BEARINGS AND HUBS. — These 
must be oiled about once a week, or at 
the end of every hundred miles or so. Oil 
thoroughly while revolving the wheels so 
as to spread the oil, and then wipe all 
the superfluous oil from the exposed parts. 

CHAIN AND SPROCKET WHEELS 
should be kept free from dirt by frequent 
cleaning with a stiff brush, — a toothbrush 
is good for this, — then oil the chain with 
any good lubricant, having it penetrate 
all the interstices. Revolve the rear wheel 
rapidly for a ew moments, wipe off any 
superfluous oil from the chain and then 
apply stick graphite lightly to the inside 
of the chain, and spread it by revolving 
the rear wheel. 

Better have the chain a little slack than 
too tight. 

TO RIVET THE CHAIN.— Two or 
three French nails cut off to within about 
three-quarters of an inch from the head 
will be found handy in case of the chain 
breaking. The nail will answer admirably 
for a rivet, and these should invariably be 
carried in the tool-bag. 

T^O ENAMEL A BICYCLE.— An easy 
^waj is to saturate a piece of soft material 
in the enamel and pass it lightly over tTie 
tubes. This is not so tedious as using 



a brush and will give more satisfaction. 
The enamel should be applied warm. 

TO CLEAN CORK HANDLES.— 

Methylated spirits is the best. Rub it on 
with a soft, clean piece of rag and keep 
turning it till the handles look like new. 

TO FIX CORK HANDLES.— One of 

the best ways to fix refractory cork 
handles is to melt some alum and apply 
it to the ends in contact with the tube. 
This generally forms a very secure fixture 
if allowed to dry well. 

THE LAMP.— Trim the wick and give 
the lamp a thorough cleaning every time 
i: is refilled. Smoke and a bad odor is 
caused by accumulated dirt and soot in 
the burner. Keep the reflector and glass 
brilliantly polished. Change the wick 
every montu, as it frequently becomes 
clogged with oil. 

Lower the light when not riding. 

The best wick is a loosely woven one 
that fits the burner exactly and is only just 
long enough to touch the bottom of the 
reservoir. 

Acetylene and electric lamps are now 
very much used instead of the oil, these 
have their own instructions. 

FLICKERING LAMPS.— When the 
light begins to get low, a little salt m 
the oil will improve it, and slightly broken 
camphor is also recommended. 

NICKEL-PLATING will rust if al- 
lowed to remain damp, therefore all the 
nickelled part should be cleaned and dried 
after a ride in the rain or over muddy 
roads. Have a bottle of kerosene near 
where the wheel is kept, so in case there 
is no time for cleaning, a cloth can be 
saturated with it and rubbed over all the 
nickelled parts, which will keep then 
from rusting until there is time to cle.n 
thoroughly. 

NUTS AND SCREWS.-Tighten these 
by turning them from left to right and 
slacken from right to left. In all cases re- 
lease the lock-nut before slackening a bolt 
or screw. 

Don't bend the spanner in tightening or 
slackening a nut; always pull towards the 
open end of the jaws and they will remain 
parallel. 

Constant screwing and unscrewing of 
bolts and nuts will ruin the strongest ma- 
chine. Nuts which will work loose may bs 
kept tight by preparing a washer of 
brown paper and screwing them down onto 
that. This is useful to remember when 
there is no mechanic at hand. 

OILING PEDALS.— Do not oil th« 
pedals too much, as the oil works its way 
out and makes the skirt dirty when riding. 

A PUNCTURE REPAIR.— A small 
piece of paper, brown in preference, used 



210 



WATER AND MERCURY ARE THE MOST PERFECT LIQUIDS. 



with a piece of rag will make an emer- 
gency repair for a puncture. 

After solutioning the paper to the rag, 
solution the whole over the puncture. The 
paper prevents the air escaping, while the 
linen prevents the paper splitting. 

TO PREVENT RUST.— Carry a piece 
of old fashioned tallow candle in the tool 
box. When rain or fog is threatened, give 
all the bright parts of the machine a coat- 
ing of tallow, and the nickel will not rust. 

TIRES. — Keep them properly inflated; 
they should yield just sufficiently when 
pinched with the thumb and fingers to give 
the idea of slight elasticity. 

The front tire should not be inflated as 
much as the back one. The harder the 
former is, the greater will be the vibra- 
tion. Nothing takes the life and elasticity 
out of a pneumatic tire so much as keep- 
ing it permanently in the bright sunlight. 

OIL ON THE TIRES. — Sometimes 
when lubricating a wheel, oil drops onto 
the tires; if this occurs rub it off at once, 
as the action of the oil is apt to injure the 
rubber. 

PRESERVING THE TIRES.— Do not 

allow the tires to get deflated when not in 
use. The rubber is liable to injury from 
pressing against the rims. The best way 
to preserve the rubber tires is to inflate 
them sufficiently to keep their round form 
and see that they are well cemented to 
the rims. They will keep better in a dark 
place where the atmosphere is dry and 
cool. Keep them off the ground when not 
in use. 

TO PUT TIRES ON RIMS.— Scrape 
off any of the old cement that remains on 
the rim with medium grade of sand paper, 
until a smooth surface is obtained. Spread 
the new cement on evenly with a brush 
and place the tire quickly into its proper 
position, then let rest a few hours before 
using the wheel. 

VALVE CAPS.— Do not screw these on 
too tight after inflating the tires; turn 
them to the full extent of the thread, but 
no further, otherwise it will wear the rub- 
ber and cause a leak. 

TO TEST A VALVE.— To discover 
whether a flabby tire is due to a leakage 
at the valve or a puncture, fill a bottle 
with water, and after removing the cap, 
immerse the valve. If there is a leakage, 
bubbles will rise in the water. 

CORRECT PEDALLING.— The ball, 
not the hollow of the foot is the part to 
push with. Pedal with a steady, even and 
continuous pressure, to attain which good 
ankle action is essential. This brings the 
powerful muscles of the calf into play, and 
enables pressure on the pedal to be con- 
tinued for more than half its revolution. 



THE CAUSE OF SIDE-SLIPPING.— 

II is a known fact that the majority of 
cyclists pedal harder with one foot than 
the other. 

Careless pedalling is one of the chief 
causes of side slipping. When cycling 
over greasy roads, one should pedal easily 
and steadily. Even when exercising the 
greatest caution, it is sometimes difficult 
to keep up on a slippery, slanting surface, 
such as usually found in wet weather at 
the sides of most roads. Therefore, the 
rider who pushes harder with one leg than 
the other is much more liable to push the 
machine from under him than the steady, 
even peddlar. 

The best way to overcome this habit is 
to practice riding "hands-off," on some 
level road where there is no traffic. 

It will as a rule be found that, in order 
to steer straight, much greater pressura 
has to be put on one pedal than is usually 
required, thus proving that the rider has 
not been in the habit of pedalling evenly. 

A GYMKHANA.— This is a fashion- 
able form of an outdoor entertainment or 
tournament. It consists of a series or pro- 
gramme of any game or race to be per 
formed both by ladies and gentlemen, for 
the amusement of a party of invited 
guests. 

Prizes are awarded to the winners of 
the contests. 

The races must be as absurd and ludi- 
crous as they can be made. 

COLORS— Distinct colors should be 
worn, with a badge to match. Gymkhana 
can be played by bicyclists, polo-players or 
any other suitable sport. 

HORSEBACK RIDING. — For this 
beautiful exercise always select a thor- 
oughbred, intelligent, well trained horse; 
it must be void of vicious habits, and trust- 
worthy; otherwise the rider's life is endan- 
gered. 

See that the saddle and bridle are all 
secure, and that the former fits well onto 
the horse. 

TO MOUNT.— Let some one hold the 
bridle, while the gentleman assists the lady 
to mount. She should take her habit in 
her left hand and take hold of the pom- 
mel with the right, with her right side 
standing close to the horse. The gentle- 
man facing the lady, stoops and lets her 
place her left foot in his right hand, then 
she springs with her right leg, balances 
herself with her hand holding the pom- 
mel, turns her body and sits steadily in 
her seat. Arranges her skirts and places 
her left foot in the stirrup aided by the 
gentleman. 

TO DISMOUNT.— Before doing this, 
disengage her legs and skirt; keep her left 
hand on the pommel and placing her left 
foot in the gentleman's right hand, rise 



SEA WATER IS BITTER AT THE SURFACE; SALT AT GREAT DEPTHS. 211 



plislitly out of the saddle, and allow him 
to lower her gently to the ground. 

HORSERIDING HINTS.— The left 
side is called the near side; the right, the 
off-side. 

A severe bit is unnecessary. 

A lady's horse may canter beside a gen- 
tleman's horse who is trotting, but not the 
reverse. 

Do not urge your companion on, if your 
horse has a faster gait. 

A stirrup must be taken up one hole, 
when riding cross-country riding. The lady 
should give the pace. A horse is easily 
frightened, so spare the whip. The gen- 
tleman should ride to the right of two 
ladies, but if one or both are nervous he 
may ride between. 

RULES OF THE ROAD.— Keep to the 
right. When overtaking a person, keep to 
the left. When overtaken, keep to the 
right, to leave the road free on the left. 

TO LEARN TO SKATE, 

INSIDE EDGE,— Place both feet flat 
on the ice, without rising on the toe, just 
the same as when walking. Keep the heel 
of the right foot a few inches from the 
hollow of the left, press on the ice with 
the edge of the left foot, in this way the 
right foot is pushed forward. Now bring 
the left foot in a straight line with the 
right, and glide along, until there is no 
more impetus. Alternate both feet in this 
exercise for some time and the movement 
will then become easy. Each time in- 
crease the distance, and after a short trial 
the inside edge movement will have been 
attained. 

OUTSIDE EDGE.— For outside edge 
skating place some small object on the ice, 
stand a short distance from it, the head 
turned towards it, and propel around this 
object with the left foot, having the out- 
side edge of the right skate pressed firmly 
into the ice. 

When this has been practiced a few 
times, then take the left foot from the ice, 
and see how long it can be kept off the 
ground. Alternate this motion with each 
foot, until perfect confidence is assured. 

When thoroughly firm, skate a perfect 
ring; have the right knee rigidly straight, 
the left foot slightly in front of the right. 

The other movements in skating are 
simply modifications of these two steps. 
An eight is made by skating two complete 
circles on either foot. 

The three is formed by skating on the 
outside edge of the right foot, the left one 
being far at the back. When a circle is 
more than half formed, turn on the right 
foot and skate backwards. When perfect 
iwith both feet, combine them, and alter- 
nate first one foot then the other; of course 



this must be done in a very steady man- 
ner, otherwise it might result in a fall. 

REMARKS ON SKATING.— Always 
steer with the foot off the ice, never with 
the one on. 

Always keep the toe of the foot which 
is off the ice just above the ground having 
the heel part raised. 

Always keep the acting leg knee per- 
fectly straight. 

Always keep the hands hanging by the 
side. Always have sufficient control to 
steer away from an approaching skater. 
Always remember that skating like any 
other sport, can be made injurious if kept 
up for too leugthy a time. 

SEA BATHING.— The salt water bath 
is an excellent tonic for both mind and 
body; for it braces the nerves and in- 
creases cheerfulness. The various salts 
contained in the water improve the condi- 
tion of the skin, and check any tendency 
to excessive perspiration due to over-exer- 
cise or illness. But, those suffering from 
disease or weakness in any form should 
not bathe iu the sea before consulting 
their doctor. 

THE BATH. — The best time to bathe 
is between ten and twelve in the morning, 
although any time of the day is good, ex- 
cept for an hour after meals. Bathing 
must then be avoided as it interferes with 
digestion. Don't bathe after perspiring 
freely or when chilly. When comfortably 
warm is the best time. 

Run or walk rapidly into the water and 
at once let a wave break over your head. 
The first chill on going in is followed by 
returning warmth; but come out of the 
water as soon as the second chill occurs, 

SWIMMING.— Don't attempt to swim 
if the tide is running out, unless you are 
an expert, for you may be carried far 
away from the shore and find it difficult 
to return. Nor, do pot swim when there 
is a heavy surf, the force of the water is 
exhausting, and you may lose your pres- 
ence of mind. 

TO LEARN TO SWIM.— First learn to 
float as this gives confidenece. Do not ex- 
pect to make any progress if tired, over- 
heated or directly after eating a good meal, 
and yet do not bathe while fasting. 

Sea water being heavier than fresh 
gives greater support to the body and 
makes it easier to float on. 

If a sensation of numbness or shivermg 
is experienced, or even a headache after 
bathing, still do not give it up, but en- 
deavor to find whether every precaution 
has been taken before discontinuing sea 
bathing altogether. 

TO FLOAT.— Lay flown gently in the 
water, arch the spine backwards and keep 
both legs and knees in a perfectly straight 
position. Lay the head far back, be- 



212 



FRESH WATER BEGINS TO FREEZE AT 32° ; SALT AT 28^' 



tween the shoulder blades, bring the feet 
to the surface aud allow the arms to lay 
close to the sides in the water, using the 
hands to push like oars towards the feet, 
and bringing them back by bending the 
arms. Then push them towards the feet, 
with the arms kept close to the sides. 
Continue this for some time, until quite a 
progress can be made. Do not keep the 
feet out of water, or the head will go 
under A perfect rest can be taken by 
floating gently by the legs. 

BREAST SWIMMING. — Walk into 
the water and when it reaches the chest 
turn round and face the land; this will 
take the learner from deep into shallow 
water. Place the hands in front of the 
chest, press the nngers well together, the 
thumb to the first finger. The palms must 
iiot be pressed; keep them downwards, and 
the backs upwards. Lean forward gently 
in the water, push out the hands, keep the 
arms quite straight, and just as the feet 
rise, push forward slightly and propel a 
couple of feet towards the shore. Keep 
this up as long as possible, then drop gent- 
ly to the ground. Have the head thrown 
well back and arch the spine as much as 
possible. 

Repeat several times to gain confidence. 



Begin once more from the starting point 
aud after lifting the feet from the bottom, 
draw them close to the body, aud then 
push them away. When stretched to their 
fullest extent, press them tightly together 
and keep them perfectly straight. This 
will push the swimmer on, and if he can- 
not keep above water, then drop the feet 
down as before. Begin again and continue 
until at each advance a slight improve- 
ment is made. 

The arms act more than the legs in 
swimming, and their movements must be 
thoroughly practiced. 

SIDE SWIMMING.— Instead of using 
both arms and legs together, they must 
work together but in different ways. The 
swimmer lies on his right side and stretch- 
ing the right arm out as far as possible, 
keeps the fingers quite straight, with the 
hand held edgewise so as to cut through 
the water. Lay the left hand across the 
chest, and begin by making the leg stroke, 
the under one working the hardest. Be- 
fore the stroke is quite spent, bring the 
right around until the hand is near the 
thigh and make the same sweep with the 
left hand, as far as it can go. After a 
time turn round, swim on the left, and 
rest the right side. 



THE FOIL OF LOOKING GLASSES IS TIN ANI>' QUICKSILVER. 



213 



Card Games 



EUCHRE. — This game is too univer- 
sally known to require much explanation, 
and the numerous ways of playing it are 
so various that it would be impossible to 
describe them all, so like whist we refer 
the readers to the many excellent hand- 
books of games to be found which give 
all the rules required to be learned. 

TECHNICAL TERMS USED IN 
EUCHRE. 

Right bower — The jack of trumps. 

Left bower — The jack of the same color 
as the trump suit. If spades are trumps, 
the jack of spades is right bower, the jack 
of clubs, left bower. 

The joker — An extra card which ranks 
highest of all the trumps. 

To euchre. — The failure of that side or 
player which makes, orders up, or takes 
up a trump, to make three tricks. This 
failure scores two points to his adversary. 

Making a trump — Naming a new suit 
for trump, after the trump card has been 
turned down. 

Pass — To decline to play as the trump 
turned up. 

Rank — The relative power of the cards, 
as follows: Joker (if played with one), 
right bower, left bower, ace, king, queen, 
ten, nine, etc. 

The game — The players cut for deal; 
the higher card cut dealing. 

The cards are dealt by two and threes, 
each player receiving five. 

The next card is turned up for trump. 
Five points constitute the game. 

Among the newest games are the follow- 
ing : 

THE VARIOUS GAMES. 

Calling on the ace is one way of playing 
euchre; that is, when a player wishes to 
play, he calls on the player holding the ace 
of the suit he names for trumps, and is 
assisted by him in his play. 

Another game is, the nearest hand to 
the dealer proposes to make so many 
tricks, there being no trump card turned 
up, and if there be no higher bidder, he 
then names the trump and is assisted by 
his partner or partners. 

This is an all round game played by any 
number, and every alternate one becomes 
a partner. 

Two cards must be left over after deal- 
ing, these to be taken up by the bidder 
after he has named his trump. 



PROGRESSIVE EUCHRE. — This 
game is played in the same manner as or- 
dinary euchre, only for larger parties, all 
the persons being seated at small tables, 
two couples to each. The tables are num- 
bered 1, 2, 3, 4, etc. The first one is 
called the "king" table. The time allotted 
for each game is decided on by the players 
at the "king" table. As soon as their 
game is concluded, a gong bell is struck, 
and all the players at the other tables im- 
mediately stop playing. Starting with the 
second table, they now commence to pro- 
gress. 

If a game at any table should not have 
been played out the partners having won 
the greatest amount of points are declared 
te be the winners. 

The winning partners now advance to 
the next higher table and receive a punch 
on a tally card with which they have been 
previously provided. 

The first or "king" table, the highest of 
all is conducted somewhat different to the 
others, for at this one, the losing partners 
go back to the very last table, while the 
winners remain where they are. 

The "visiting lady," or the lady who has 
advanced is the one to deal first. It is 
customary to change partners after every 
game. 

Prizes are awarded at the end of the 
evening. These are won by the lady or 
gentleman who has obtained the greatest 
number of punches on their tally. 

If there be but one prize, and two or 
more contestants, a game is played be- 
tvpeen them, conducted as before. The 
winner of this game receives the extra 
punch and the prize. 

HEARTS. — This game is played with 
a full pack of cards, and can be played by 
two, three, four, five or more persons. 
The cards are shuffled, cut and dealt like 
whist, one at the time, and after being 
evenly distributed any left over are laid 
aside to be taken by the player who has 
taken the last trick. 

The object of the game is to get rid or 
not receive any hearts, as each one is 
scored a point against him. 

Suits must be followed if possible. 
Hearts can only be led after the third 
trick has been taken. 

After each round the players counc the 
hearts their tricks contain, and this is 
scored against them. The deals are con- 
tinued until one player has thirty-one 
hearts, then the round is finished and the 



214 GLUE AXD ISIXGLASS ARE VARIOUS FORMS OF ANIMAL GELATINE. 



one having the least quantity of hearts re- 
ceives the stakes, the amount being decided 
on beforehand. The game is to get rid of 
the highest cards and hearts, throwing 
them away on tricks when suits cannot be 
followed. 

PINOCHLE. — This game is played with 
two packs of cards from which all below 
the nine's have been discarded. 

TWO-HANDED PINOCHLE.— When 
the game is played by two, it is commenced 
bv cutting for deal. The highest card 
wins, ace being high, the other cards 
following in rank, as follows: Ace, ten, 
king, queen, jack, nine. 

The cards count as follows to the wm- 
ner of the trick containing them: 

The ace counts 11 points. 

The ten counts 10 points. 

The king counts 4 points. 

The queen counts 3 points. 

The jack counts 2 points. 

In all 250 with the last trick counting 
10. 

Or, to facilitate the marking, count aces, 
tens and kings each ten, the queens and 
jacks not to count any; this with the last 
trick makes the same number 250. 

If the game is played this way, remem- 
ber always that the kings have the same 
value as an ace or ten, and they there- 
fore should not be thrown carelessly away. 

The dealer shuffles, and after the cut, 
deals each player twelve cards, four at 
the time, turning the next card up as a 
trump and leaving the remainder of the 
pack or talon on the table. If the trump 
card is a nine, the dealer scores ten 
points. , , ^, 

Both or one of the two players keep the 
score on a marker or slate, the points of 
the game being 1,000. The lead belongs 
to the winner of the previous trick. Suit 
may or may not be followed at discretion. 
After each trick, each player draws a card 
from the top of the talon, continuing un- 
til it is exhausted. A meld or announce- 
ment can only be made and scored by the 
winner of the previous trick, and before 
drawing from the talon, and only one_ an- 
nouncement can be declared at a time. 
When the talon is exhausted, no more 
melds can be made and suit must be fol- 
lowed or trumped, and a trick must always 
be taken by a higher card if the player 
has one. 

At the end of each round, each player 
counts the face value of the cards in the 
tricks he has won; the winner of the last 
trifk counting ten more points. 

MELDS. — The five highest sequence 
trumps count 150. 
Four aces. 100. 
Four kings, 80. 
Four queens, 60. 
Four jacks, 40. 



Pinochle or queen of spades and jack 
of diamonds, 40. 

Double pinochle, the four cards not hav- 
ing previously marked the single pinochle, 
300. 

King and queen of trumps, 40. 

King and queen of any other suit, 20. 

The nine of trumps counts for 10, and 
is exchangeable when duly announced for 
the turned up card. 

If a player melds 40 trumps (king and 
queen) and subsequently draws the other 
cards to make up the 150 trumps, he may 
announce these also when he has the op- 
portunity, but he cannot announce 40 
trumps afterwards. 

CAUTIONS. — A good player must en- 
deavor to make sure of the last trick but 
»ne, in order to prevent the opponent from 
declaring. Keep the tens until you can 
make them count. Kings and queens 
once married cannot be remarried, but can 
be used while they remain on the table to 
make up four kings, four queens or a 
sequence. The king and queen used in a 
sequence cannot afterwards be declared as 
a marriage. If four jacks have been de- 
clared, the jack of diamonds may be used 
for a pinochle, or to complete a sequence; 
the same with the ace of trumps. 

If the queen of spades has been mar- 
ried she can be used for a pinochle or 
for four queens. 

T H R E E-HANDED PINOCHLE.— 
Each player scores for himself. The cards 
are dealt from left to right, four at a 
time, sixteen to each, and the last one 
is the trump. The first player on the 
left begins the play. If the trump card 
is a nine the dealer scores ten points, 
or if not, the player nearest him exchanges 
his nine for the turned up trump card, 
and scores ten. 

MELDS. — The melds, if any, are de- 
clared by each player after the deal, the 
cards to be laid face up on the table, 
and when scored taken back in the hand. 
The eldest hand leads and all the other 
players must follow suit if they can but 
are not obliged to take the trick, and if 
the player cannot follow suit, he is com- 
pelled to play a trump if he has one. The 
score is reckoned at the end of each round, 
the same as in the two-handed game, the 
last trick scoring ten extra points. The 
points of all the counting cards make a 
total of 250. 

FOUR-HANDED PINOCHLE.— This 
is played by partners the same as whist. 
The cards are dealt the same as in three- 
handed, only each player has but twelve, 
the last card being the trump. When this 
is the nine, the dealer scores ten, or the 
card, if another, is exchanged by the near- 
est hand holding a nine of trumps and for 
which he scores ten. The melds are made 
before the cards are played. 



OLD ANIMALS MAKE THE STRONGEST GLUE. 



215 



f The eldest hand leads, and the same 
rules are observed as in the three-handed 
game, only the partners assist each other 
by throwing the tens and other high cards 
to their partners' aces, and keeping the 
lowest cards for the opponents. The score 
is counted at the end of each round, the 
same as in the two-handed, the partners 
in the game combining their points and 
their scores, including the ten points for 
the last trick. One thousand points is the 
game in two, three or four-handed pinochle. 

WHIST.— This game is played by four 
persons who cut for partners, the two 
highest against the two lowest; the part- 
ners sit opposite each other, and he who 
cuts the lowest has the first deal. The 
ace in cutting is the lowest. 

SHUFFLING.— Each person may shuf- 
fle the cards before the deal. Usually the 
dealer only. 

CUTTING.— The pack is cut by the 
right hand adversary, and the cards are 
then dealt one by one to each person, be- 
ginning at the left, the last card is turned 
up for trump and left on the table till 
after the first trick is taken. 

FIRST PLAY.— The elder hand leads 
or plays a card, the left hand adversary 
follows, then his partner and the right 
hand adversary. The winner of the trick 
plays again, and so on till the cards are all 
played. 

COLLECTING TRICKS.— These 
should be turned and collected by one of 
the partners only. All tricks above six 
reckon one for each. 

HONORS. — The ace, king, queen and 
knave of trumps are called honors. Some- 
times these are counted together between 
the two partners, are two points for three 
honors, four for four; this is long whist 
of ten points. Short whist is five. 

If honors are played they cannot count 
I :when nine points are scored. 

TECHNICAL TERMS. 

Finessing. — Is an attempt by the third 
player to make a lower card answer the 
purpose of a higher, running the risk that 
the adversary will not be able to take it. 
If he is not, you are certain to make 
an extra trick. 

Forcing. — Obliging your partner or ad- 
versary to trump a trick by leading a suit 
of which they have none. 

Leading through. — The player who leads 
is said to lead through his left hand ad- 
versary, and up to his right hand one, the 
play being in that direction. 

Long suit. — One of which you hold more 
than three cards. 

Loose card. — A card of no value and 
most proper to throw away. 

Plain suits. — Are the three suits not 
trumps. 



Points. — ^Ten make the game in long 
whist. 

Renounce.— When a player has none of 
the suit, he is said to renounce that suit. 

Revoke. — If a player fails to follow suit 
when he has a card of the same, he re- 
vokes and incurs a serious penalty. 

Sequence. — Any number of cards in suc- 
cessive order. A tierce is a sequence of 
three, a quatre of four, and a quint of 
five. 

Short suit. — One in which you have not 
held more than three cards. 

Signal for trumps. — Unnecessarily 
throwing away a high card before a low 
one is a signal to your partner that you 
want him to play trumps, which he must 
obey whatever his own hand may be. 

Strength. — The strongest suit or hand. 

Tenace. — The best and third best card 
left in any suit as ace and queen which is 
the major tenace. If both these have 
been played, the king and knave become 
the tenace and so on. 

TWENTY MAXIMS FOR WHIST. 

I. Lead the highest of a sequence, but 
if you have a quatre or quint to a king, 
lead the lowest. 

II. Lead through an honor, especially 
when the game is against you. 

III. Lead a trump if you have four or 
five or a strong hand, but not if weak. 

IV. Lead from your strong suit, be care- 
ful about changing suits, and keep a high 
card to bring it in again. 

V. Lead your best trump if the adver- 
saries are far advanced, and you have no 
honor. 

VI. With ace, king and two or three 
small cards lead ace and king if weak in 
trumps, but a small one if strong. 

VII. If you have last trump with some 
winning cards, and one losing card only, 
play this one. 

VIII. Always return your partner's 
lead, not your adversaries. 

IX. Do not lead from ace, queen or ace 
knave. 

X. As a rule do not lead an ace unless 
you have a king. 

XI. Do not lead a thirteenth card, un- 
less trumps are out. You only force yonr 
partner. 

XII. Do not trump a thirteenth card 
unless you be last player or want the lead. 

XIII. Keep a small card to return your 
partner's lead. 

XIV. When having only a few small 
trumps, make them when you can. 

XV. If your partner will not trump a 
suit, knowing you have not the best, lead 
trumps. 

XVI. When holding all the last trumps, 
play one and try and give your partner 
the lead. 

XVII. Remember how many of each 



216 PURE LIME MIXED WITH SAND AND WATER FORMS MORTAR. 



suit are out, ana the best card in eacn 
hand. 

XVIII. Never force your partner if you 
are weak in trumps unless you waut the 
odd trick. 

XIX. When playing for the odd trick, 
be cautious of trumping, make all the 
tricks you can and avoid finessing. 

XX. If you take a trick and have a 
sequence win it with the lowest. 

LAWS OF WHIST.— These being very 
lengthy we refer the players to the many 
handbooks published on the subject which 
give them in full detail. 

BRIDGE WHIST. — This game is 
played by four persons with fifty-two 
cards, and a full knowledge of the game of 
whicn is necessary in order to play it prop- 
erly. The cards are dealt the same as in 
whist, only the last card is not turned up, 
the trump being declared. 

A misdeal does not lose the deal, the 
dealer deals over again. 

The dealer has the right to declare the 
trump, which he does according to his 
Land; this is difficult, because the tricks 
have a different value according to the suit 
which is trump. 

The game consists of thirty points; the 
first six tricks do not count; only those 
over, the same as ordinary whist. The 
rubber is two out of three games. All 
tricks over the first six counts a certain 
number of points, dependent upon the 
value of the trump. 

Honors do not count toward the thirty 
points. 

The dealer, if he chooses, may declare 
there is no trump, and the game proceeds 
as when trumps are exhausted, or he may 
call on his partner to make it, which he 
must do. 

When spades are trumps each trick 
after the sixth counts two. 

When clubs are trumps each trick 
counts four. When diamonds each trick 
counts six. When hearts each trick counts 
eight. 

When no trump is declared then the 
Talue of each over trick is twelve. The 
dealer always keeps the score. 

DOUBLING. — After the dealer or his 
partner has made trumps, the opponents 
cannot change it, but they may increase 
the value of the tricks by doubling; then 
the dealer or his partner may re-double. 
The others may re-double over them, and 
BO on, giving an additional gambling ele- 
ment to the game. 

The first re-double to be made by the 
player who made the trump, then with 
his partner. If the opponents again re- 
double, the first chance is for the one who 
first doubled, and next his partner. 

THE GAME.— The riffht hand adver- 
fiary havinir withdrawn the doubling, and 
expressed himself satisfied, the player on 



the left of the dealer, leads a card. The 
dealer's partner then lays his cards face 
upward on tne table, and is played by 
the dealer as a dummy, the same as in 
dummy whist. 

The holder of this dummy must in no 
way assist or interfere in the play, he must 
not look over any of the hands, or suggest 
by word or action how his partner is to 
play. Of course this gives a great advan- 
tage to the dealer. 

It is usual to use two packs of cards, 
one pack belonging to each pair of part- 
ners. All the rules of the game are the 
same as at straight whist, only the deal 
may not be lost, a misdeal demanding a 
fresh deal. 

All disputed points should be referred to 
an uninterested bystander; this having 
been agreed to, all shouldl abide by this 
decision. 

SUGGESTIONS FOR THE PLAY. 

If a spade declaration will finish the 
game, it would be poor play to make 
hearts. 

Watch the score well, but avoid refer- 
ing to it after the hands have been looked 
at. A player must not call his partner's 
attention to it. A player must not revoke 
on purpose, or ask to see the last trick, ex- 
cept for his own information. 

Holding four aces in absence of a good 
red suit, no trump should be declared, and 
usually when there are three, with four 
honors in a red suit containing three 
aces, make a trump, for the honors scored 
heavily. 

TECHNICAL TERMS. 

GRAND SLAM— Scoring thirteen 
tricks, which adds forty points to tne 
honor count. 

LITTLE SLAM— Twelve tricks, add- 
ing twenty points to the houor count. 

CHICANE] — A player holding no card 
of the trump suit, is entitled to two tricks. 

"MAKE IT PARTNT]R"— The partner 
must make the trump suit. 

DOUBLING — Increasing the value of 
the tricks. 

DUMMY — The partner's hand, placed 
face upwards on the table. 

RE-DOUBLING — To double the 
double. 

LOVB-ALLi— Both scores alike. 

HONORS. — There are five honors: Ace, 
king, queen, jack and ten. 

No trump is called a "noner" this 
means that the player decides to play 
without trumps, this makes four plain 
suits, aud the game is played as when 
honors are exhausted at whist. 

When no trump is declared, the honws 
then are the four aces. 

Two partners holding three honors score 
the value of two tricks. 



ROCHELLE SALTS CON"SIST OF TARTRATE OP POTASH AND SODA. 217 



I Holding four honors score four tricks. 
Holding five honors score five tricks. One 
player holding four honors scores eight 
tricks. 

One player holding five honors scores 
ten tricks. 

Four honors in one hand and the partner 
holding the fifth, they score nine tricks. 

If these honors are in clubs, held by two 
partners, they count eight points. If in 
'nearls, count forty. 

If in spades, held by one player sixteen, 
and so on. 

TABLE FOR COUNTING HONORS. 

— Spades, clubs, diamonds, hearts. 

4, 8, 12, 16— Three honors. 

8, 16, 24, 32— Pour honors. 

10, 20. 30, 40— Five honors. 

16, 32, 48, 64— Pour in one hand. 

18, 36, 54, 72— Pour in one hand, 
fifth in partners. 



20, 40, 60, 80— Five in one hand when 
there is no trump. 

Three aces between partners count 30. 

Four aces between partners count 40. 

Four aces in one hand count 100. 

THE HONOR SCORE.-This is kept 
apart from the trick score, and does not 
affect the game. It is included in the 
final tally, when the game or rubber is 
over. 

Both scores are then added up, and the 
winners of the rubber, add one hundred 
points to their honor score. The points 
for honors and tricks are kept in separate 
columns. 

The players score all they make, but 
as soon as the score passes thirty, a line 
is drawn under to show that the game 
is won, but the hand is played to the 
end. 

The average value of a rubber is 170 
points. 



218 



PURE ALCOHOL IS COLORLESS AND TRANSPARENT. 



Dances, Figures and Steps 



DANCES, FIGURES AND STEPS. 

QUADRILLE.— The fashionable way 
of dancing quadrilles is to have the four 
couples dauce all at the same time, and 
not heads and sides separately, as in for- 
mer years. The lady stands at her part- 
ner's right. 

FIGURES. — First Figure. — Bow to 
partners. All couples, cross over, between 
the opposite couples; the gentleman takes 
the lady's left hand and turns with her, 
then return to places. Balancing to 
partners; ladies cross over, touching 
hands as they pass; return to place and 
turn partners. 

Second Figure.— Gentleman takes lady's 
hand in his right and holds it slightly 
upwards. Advance three steps, retire 
three steps, returning to place. Ladies 
step to centre, cross their right hands, 
and move to the oposite side of the set, 
then change hands and return; when just 
opposite her partner, she gives him her 
right hand and all balance, marching 
once around the set, then turn partners 
to place. 

The third and fourth time, the gentle- 
men take the place of the ladies; the 
gentlemen raise their arms, the ladies 
stoop under, all keeping each other's 
hands, then all balance, and return to 
places. 

Third Figure. — Couples cross over, giv- 
ing right hands, turn and face the centre. 
Cross over again, giving left hands to 
opposite gentleman. Retain hands and 
when two couples have passed each other 
the lady gives her right hand to her 
partner while facing the centre. 

Balance forward and back twice, then 
half promenade to opposite places, each 
couple in the other couple's original place. 
Ladies advance and retire; gentlemen ad- 
vence and retire, forward all and retire, 
and return to places. 

Fourth figure. — Hands all round, until 
places are again reached; forward, and re- 
tire, repeat, bow and all chassez. 

THE LANCERS. — These are also 
danced by the four couples all at the same 
time. 

First figure. — All couples face corner 
couples, advance and return, forward 
again, gentleman turns the corner lady, 
return to original places. Second time, 
each lady faces the other corner gentle- 



man, forward, turn and return to places. 
Repeat all once more. 

Second figure. — All couples advance 
twice, second time leave ladies in centre, 
gentlemen form a ring around the ladies, 
who place their heads under the gentle- 
men's arms having hands interlaced. 

Chassez around, return to places, repeat 
and for third and fourth time, gentlemen 
remain in centre, and ladies form a circl? 
around them, chassez, and return to 
places. 

Third figure. — Ladies advance, stop and 
clasp hands to form a cross, chassez and 
opposite gentleman swings opposite lady. 
cross re-formed, and when each lady is op- 
posite her own partner, he turns her twice. 
Repeat, and for third and fourth time, gen- 
tlemen clasp hands in centre, lady takes 
her partner's arm, half way they change 
hands and return to respective places. 

Fourth figure. — Grand Chain. Partners 
bow, join right hands, and continue to give 
alternate right and left hands to those they 
meet. When on opposite side, turn their 
own partners, and return to places in the 
opposite direction. Head couple make 
three steps to the side, return to place, 
facing outward, second couple fall in line 
at back, then third, then fourth. Gentle- 
men chassez to right, ladies to left, reverse 
and form into two lines, ladies opposite 
the gentlemen. 

First couple join hands, come down be- 
tween the lines and return to places, all 
forward and back, then turn to places. 

Grand Chain. — Repeat four times, the 
last one the gentleman offers his arm to his 
partner and conducts her to her seat. 

THE SCHOTTISCHE.— The lady starts 
with her right foot, the gentleman with 
the left. Take two steps to the side, turn, 
pull the other foot forward, with the heel 
raised. The lady is then turned four 
times, and repeat. The schottische should 
be danced much slower than the polka. 

THE WALTZ. — The most popular of 
round dances, and danced to three-four 
time measure. It is no longer customary 
to hold the partner tightly, nor grasp her 
around the waist, but the gentleman places 
his right hand nearly as high as her 
shoulder. The lady's right hand rests 
lightly on the gentleman's left hand. 

There are six steps in a waltz. 

The lady steps forward six inches with 
her right foot, while the gentleman steps 
back; raise the heels. 



ALBUMEN" IS AN" ANIM AL SUBSTANCE, AS THE WHITE OF AN" EGG. 



219 



The second step is a longer one, the 
tliird and fourth shorter, the fifth long and 
the sixth short. 

The weight is changed from one foot 
to the other for each step. 

To turn, the gentleman makes a back- 
ward step, with his right foot behind his 
left, and swinging. 

To reverse, the right foot is placed away 
from the left. 

Do not take too long steps, nor do not 
hop; but glide the feet smoothly and con- 
tinuously. 

THE T"WO-STEP.— The gentleman 
liolds the lady as in the waltz. The lady 
takes a gliding step slightly forward with 
her right foot, the gentleman with the left. 
The other foot to be brought briskly up to 
the other one; this to be repeated four 
times, then turn the lady to the right, the 
gentleman going to the left. To reverse, 
turn the lady just the other way. The 
difference between the waltz and the two- 
step is, in the former, the gentleman 
steps backwards, and in the latter, he 
steps to the side. 

THE CAPRICE WALTZ.— Dance to 
waltz music. The steps are, a slide, a 
change and a hop; eight measures of music 
are needed for each movement. The first 
four steps are straight to the side, then a 
half turn, and three waltz steps, finishing 
with a hop. 

THE YORKB.— Danced to Mazourka 
music. Gentleman gives right hand to 
lady's left, keeping them even with the 
shoulder. Gentleman steps forward with 
right foot, and lady with left; repeat to 
the rear. Release hands, turn once to the 
right and left, meet, and the gentleman 
takes the lady the same as in a round 
dance. They take two steps to the side, 
the gentleman with left foot, lady with 
right, raise the foot a few inches from the 
floor, two short steps and turn as in a 
schottische. 

THE COTILLION.— This is never com- 
menced until toward the close of the ball 
after supper. Gentlemen generally select 
their partners early in the evening. A cir- 
fle of chairs is arranged round the room, 
leaving the centre clear. The guests that 



do not participate in the dance, stand or 
sit behind these chairs. Each gentleman 
leads his partner to a seat and takes one 
beside her, these chairs remain theirs dur- 
ing the entire dance. 

LEADERS. — There are generally more 
than one leader of the cotillion, who decide 
upon the figures. If there are many 
couples, one leader attends to a group of 
six or eight. 

A good leader will invent new figures 
and new combinations for every figure. 

The cotillion is not a special dance, there 
are no steps of a different kind used, the 
name is simply given to a series of short 
waltzes, polkas or galops. 

FAVORS.— When the partners are 
chosen in some bizarre, graceful manner 
by favors consisting of caps, fans, flowers 
or other novelties used in order to as- 
sist the partners in finding those with 
whom it has been arranged beforehand 
they should dance. 

When such a choice has been made, a 
short turn round the room is taken, waltz- 
ing in the usual manner, and then return 
the lady to her former partner who in the 
meanwhile has been waltzing with another 
lady. When all have regained their 
places, each gentleman waltzes once round 
the room with his own partner or re- 
mains sitting by her side, according to 
their inclination. Every season fashion 
changes the figures and combinations. 

When elaborate figures are contem- 
plated, cotillions are rehearsed. 

TERMS TO DESCRIBE THE MOVE- 
MENTS OF DANCES. 

Balancez — Set to partners. 

Chaine des dames— Ladies' chain. 

Chaine Anglaise— Couples right and left. 

Chassez — Move to the right and left. 

Chassez - croisez — Gentlemen change 
place with partners, and back again. 

Demi-Promenade — All half promenade. 

Dos-a-dos — The opposite persons pass 
round each other. 

Traversez — Opposite persons change 
places. 

Vis-a-vis— The opposite partner. 



INDEX 



Page 

Absinthe cocktail 60 

Absinthe or wormwood 140 

Absorbents, uses of 127 

Accidents •■ 148 

Accompaniments of meats •• 23 

Acetate of ammonia 129 

Acetate of lead with opium 129 

Acetate of potassa 129 

Acetate of sine 129 

Acid fruits 13 

Acid in the eye, to remove 154 

Acid stains, to remove 69 

Acids, boracic 131 

Acids, carbolic, disinfectant B9 

Acids, citric 133 

Acids, manicure 29 

Acids, muriatic 137 

Acids, nitric, antidote for 146 

Acids, oxalic, antidote for 146 

Acids, phosphoric 138 

Acids, Prussic, antidote for 147 

Acids, salicylic 138 

Acids, sulphuric, antidote for 146 

Acids, tannic 139 

Acids, tartaric 139 

Acidulated fruits 14 

Acidulated gargle 14 

Acne, simple cure 152 

Acne, wash for 152 

Aconite 129 

Afternoon teas 179 

Advertisements, to answer 194 

Air cushions for sick beds 163 

Alabaster, to clean 53 

Albumen of meat 21 

Alcohol 129 

Alcohol, camphorated 145 

Alcohol, poisoning 146 

Alkalies, antidotes for 146 

Alkaline baths 141 

Alkaline stains, to remove 69 

Allspice 11 

Almond, demulcent mixture 129 

Almond meal 87 

Almond oil, for a dry skin 75 

Almond, oil of bitter, antidote for 147 

Almond, oil of sweet I45 

Almonds, oily fruit I4 

Almonds, to blanch 33 

Almonds, to pound 33 

Almonds, their qualities I5 

Aloes 129 

Alteratives, uses of 127 

Alum 129 



Page 

Alum, fire preventive 129 

Alum, for croup 145 

Alum, for diabetes, etc 129 

Alum, for gargle 141 

Alum, for offensive breath 129 

Alum, for sore throat 145 

Alum, for gargle 145 

Alum, to purify water 129 

Amber, to mend bj 

Ambergris perfume 86 

Ammonia 129 

Ammonia, acetate of 129 

Ammonia, aromatic spirits of 129 

Ammonia, bicarbonate of 130 

Ammonia, for plants 171 

Ammonia, for household 59 

Ammonia, or sal-volatile 130 

Ammonia poison, antidote for 146 

Ammonia, solution of sesqulcarbonate 130 

Ammoniac for bites 145 

Ammoniacum 130 

Amyl, nitrate of 137 

Anaemia, remedy for 152 

Analeptics, uses of 127 

Anchovy essence 46 

Angostura bark 130 

Animal bites 143 

Animals and birds 166 

Animals, eats, care of 167 

Animals, dogs, care of .168 

Aniseed u 

Ankle, sprained 119 

Anniversaries, wedding igo 

Anodynes, uses of 127 

Antalkalies, uses of 127 

Anthelmintics, uses of 127 

Anti-acids, uses of 127 

Anti-arthritics, uses of 127 

Anti-bilious, uses of 127 

Anti-convulsives, uses of 127 

Antidotes for poisons 145 

Anti-dyspeptics, uses of 12T 

Anti-emetlcB, uses of 12T 

Antimonlal powder 130; 

Antimony or tartar emetic isO" 

Antimony, antidote for -. ... 14S 

Anti-periodics, uses of 127 

Anti-phlogistics, uses of 127 

Anti-pyretics, uses of 127' 

Antip3Tine 130 

Anti-rheumatics, uses of 127 

Antiscorbutics, uses of 127 

Antiseptics, uses of 127' 

Antl-spasmodics, uses of 12X' 



222 



INDEX. 



Ants and insects, to destroy 63 

Ants, red, to destroy B3 

Ants, to keep from plants 171 

Aperient pills 130 

Apoplexy, treatment for I'J't 

Apothecaries' weights 162 

Apple butter 44 

Apple jelly 44 

Apples, acidulated fruits 14 

Apples, to choose 33 

Apples, to peel 33 

Apples, to store 37 

Apricots, aromatic fruit 14 

Arithmetical signs 184 

Arms, care of the 75 

Arms, perspiration under the 82 

Arms, red 75 

Arms, to whiten 75 

Arnica for bruises or blows 145 

Arnica lotion 142 

Arnica, tincture of 130 

Aromatic fruits 14 

Aromatic spirits of ammonia 129 

Aromatic vinegar for asphyxia 145 

Aromatics and spices 11 

Aromatlcs, uses for 127 

Arsenic, Fowler's solution of 135 

Arsenic poison, antidote for 146 

Art 200 

Arteries cut, treatment of 144 

Artichokes U 

Artichokes, Jerusalem 18 

Asparagus 16 

Asafootida 130 

Asafoetida enema ttl 

Asthma, ammonicum for 130 

Astringent fruits 14 

Astringents, uses of 127 

Atropia, antidote of 146 

Attar of roses, perfume 86 

Attenuantes, uses of 127 

Automobiling 208 

Automobiling directions 203 

Automobiling, reverse while riding 208 

Automobiling, technical terms 208 

Avoirdupois weight 162 

B 

Baby's ailments 117 

Backache 152 

Back, to straighten 183 

Bacon, parts of 19 

Bacon, to choose 19 

Bacon, to cure 19 

Badminton tennis 207 

Bag, black to renovate 63 

Bags, bran and salt IIS 

Baldness, remedy for 75 

Balls for golf 204 

Balls for ping-pong 205 

Balls for tennis 206 

Balsamics, uses of 127 



Page 

Bananas, sweet fruit 14 

Bandages 145 

Bankrupt law, U. S 192 

Bard fowl or game 35 

Bark soap for cleaning 53 

Barley, cereal 12 

Barley water 126 

Barley water honeyed 164 

Barometers 19S 

Basil 10 

Basins, kitchen 26 

Basket, mending 105 

Basket, salad 27 

Bastings for meats, etc 25 

Bath enamelled, to clean 53 

Baths 162 

Baths, alkaline 141 

Baths, baby's 117 

Baths, tran 141 

Baths, cold 162 

Baths, daily 162 

Baths, enamelled, to clean with benzine 53 

Baths, hot 162 

Baths, iron l4l 

Baths, medicated home 141 

Baths, mustard foot 141 

Baths, rock salt for 30 

Baths, salt 30 

Baths, salt, how to make 141 

Baths, sea 211 

Baths, starch 141 

Baths, steel 141 

Baths, vapor 141 

Baths, zinc, to remove grease from 53 

Bathing ailing children 118 

Bathing sea 211 

Bath tubs, to brighten 53 

Bath tubs, to enamel 53 

Battenb.urs lace (see Renaissance) 108 

Bayleaf and thyme 11 

Beadins 105 

Beans 16 

Beans, haricot to cook 33 

Beans, string 17 

Beans, to bottle 46 

Bed, children's 118 

Bed clothes 64 

Bed making 162 

Bed rest for sick room 162 

Bed table 162 

Bed, to air 54 

Bed, wetting 118 

Bed bugs 53 

Bed bugs, to destroy 30 

Bed bugs, where they harbor 53 

Beestings 151 

Bee stings, to cure 30 

Beef, corned to cook 33 

Beef, economical Joints 21 

Beef, essence 164 

Beef, Juice for children 126 

Beef tea 164 

Beef, to carve 47 



INDEX. 223 



Page 

Beef, to choose 19 

Beef, to cure without brine 33 

Beef, tongue or ham to boll 37 

Beer, ginger to make 51 

Beer, to keep fresh 54 

Bees, handling and care of 166 

Beetles, to rid of , 58 

Belladonna 130 

Belladonna, antidote for 146 

Belladonna, liniment 142 

Belts, white leather to clean 90 

Benzine 130 

Benzoin 131 

Bergamot perfume 87 

Bicarbonate of ammonia 130 

Bicarbonate of soda 132 

Bicycle gymkana 210 

Bicycling 208 

Bicycling, bearings and hubs 209 

Bicycling, chain to rivet 209 

Bicycling, enamel a 209 

Bicycling, gear of a bicycle 208 

Bicycling, gear of a chainless 208 

Bicycling, gear, to find the 209 

Bicycling, handles, cork to clean 209 

Bicycling, handles, cork to fix 209 

Bicycling, lamps to keep 209 

Bicycling, lamps, flickering 209 

Bicycling, mount how to 209 

Bicycling, mount, moving or pedal 209 

Bicycling mount, the still 209 

Bicycling, nickel plating, to clean 209 

Bicyling, nuts and screw, to keep 209 

Bicycling, pedalling, correct 210 

Bicycling, pedals, to oil 209 

Bicycling puncture, repair 209 

Bicycling, rims to put on 210 

Bicycling rust, to prevent 210 

Bicycling side, slipping, cause of 210 

Bicycling tires, oil on the 210 

Bicycling, to keep 210 

Bicycling, to preserve 210 

Bicycling, to test a 210 

Bicycling, valve caps to screw on 210 

Bicycling, wheels, chain and sprocket 209 

Bile, dandelion for 134 

Bilious attack, remedy 29 

Bill of fare for dinners 178 

Billiard tables, kerosene stains 69 

Bills of sale 192 

Birds and animals 166 

Birds, canaries, their care 166 

Birds, parrots, their care 169 

Bismuth 131 

Bites of animals 148 

Bites of gnats 29 

Bites of gnats 148 

Bites of Insects 148 

Bites of mosquitoes, etc 148 

Bites of rattlesnakes 148 

Blackberries, astringent fruit 14 

Blackberry wine 51 

Black grease from clothing 96 



Page 

Blackheads, remedy for 75 

Black hellebore 131 

Blacking, recipe for 54 

Blankets, to wash 99 

Bleach, flannel, to 100 

Bleach, stained clothes gg 

Bleach, straw hats or bonnets 93 

Bleaching the hair 79 

Bleeding of the nose 157 

Blindness, exposure ng 

Blindness in infants, cause iig 

Blindness, prevention ng 

Blindness, remedy for ng 

Blindness, special warning iig 

BlindnesSj symptoms of ng 

Blinds, Venetian, to clean 54 

Bloaters, to keep 33 

Blood purifier for spring 165 

Blouses to pack jg 

Blueing for clothes gg 

Bluestone or sulphate of copper I3i 

Bluestone, antidote for 147 

Blushing, to avoid 76 

Boiling, loss of weight by 22 

Boiling, time required for 22 

Boils, egg for 29 

Bolls, remedies for 152 

Bone, qualities of.... 21 

Bonnets, care of 90 

Bonnets, straw to clean 93 

Book weights for sick beds 163 

Boots and shoes, care of 94 

Boots, French kid, care of 94 

Boots (see shoes) 94 

Boots, squeaking, to cure 95 

Boots or shoes, to keep 94 

Boots, to make last 94 

Boots, to shine quickly 95 

Boots, to waterproof 94 

Boots, wet 95 

Boracic acid 131 

Borax, for disinfecting 59 

Borax, its uses 131 

Bottle green peas 4$ 

Bottle jams 43 

Bottle string beans 46 

Bottled fruits without sugar 44 

Bottles, clean, to 54 

Bottles, glass, to break 54 

Bottles, glass, to clean 64 

Bottles, glass, containing kerosene to clean.. 64 

Bottles, greasy, to clean 54 

Bottles, hot water for sick bed 163 

Bottles, nursing ng 

Bottles, stained water to clean 54 

Bottles, stoppers to loosen 54 

Bottles, unwashed baby's 117 

Bouquet of sweet herbs u 

Bowels, enema for bleeding. 141 

Bowel troubles, egg treatment 29 

Bowl and chopper 27 

Boys' clothing, to clean 91 

Bracelets, their care 90 



224 



IJiTDEX. 



Page 

Braiding 105 

Braids, lace to baste on 109 

Bran bags US 

Bran baths 141 

Bran, poultice 1''3 

Brandied green gages 44 

Brandy cherries 44 

Brandy, its qualities 1^1 

Brandy punch 50 

Brass, to clean 29 

Brass, embossed, to clean 54 

Brass, work to clean 54 

Bread and cakes, to cut 31 

Bread and milk for children 126 

Bread and milk poultices 143 

Bread, how to make SI 

Bread makers, to 31 

Bread making 31 

Bread, stale, for children 126 

Bread, testing the oven 31 

Bread, to bake 31 

Breadcrumbs, brown and white 27 

Breakfast, wedding 180 

Breasts, inflamed milk 142 

Breath, for a sweet 76 

Breath, holding the 118 

Breath, offensive 29 

Breath, to remove onion odor 31 

Breathing, exercise for 182 

Bride 180 

Bridegroom 180 

Bridesmaids 180 

Bridge, Whist 216 

Bridge, doubling 216 

Bridge, game, the 216 

Bridge, honors 216 

Bridge, honor score 217 

Bridge, suggestion 216 

Bridge, table for counting 217 

Bridge, technical terms 216 

Brie cheese 49 

Brimstone 131 

Broiling a steak 30 

Broiling, time required for 22 

Bromide of potash 131 

Bromo caffeine 131 

Bromo seltzer 131 

Bronchitis, children 122 

Bronchitis, medicine for 152 

Bronchitis, smoke for 153 

Bronchitis, symptoms of 122 

Bronze, ornaments to clean 55 

Brooches and bangles, care of 90 

Brooms, care of 65 

Broom holder 55 

Broom to bathe 55 

Broom to buy 55 

Brownings 25 

Brown paper, uses for 66 

Brown sauce or espagnole 24 

Bruises to prevent discoloring 153 

Brushes, hair, how to use 75 

Brushes, hair, to clean 55 



Page 

Brushes, paint, to clean 201 

Brushes, scrubbing 56 

Brushes, tootb M 

Brushes, tootb, to tighten bristles E5 

Brushes, varnish 55 

Bryony 181 

Bryony poultice 143 

Buckles, steel to clean 71 

Buckthome 131 

Buckwheat 12 

Budding , plants 170 

Bulbs, to plant 170 

Bulbs, to store 170 

Bunions, cure for 153 

Burgundy pitch 131 

Bum from a hot iron 149 

Bum, glycerine for a 149 

Burner, lamp to keep 63 

Burns from boiling water 148 

Bums on children 119 

Bums, shock and collapse 149 

Bums and scalds 148 

Burns, chalk and lard for 149 

Bums, lime water for 136 

Burns, ointment for 142 

Bums, soap for 149 

Butter, apple 44 

Butter, bad to make good 33 

Butter for cakes 32 

Butter, salt for 33 

Butter, to keep 33 

Butter, to keep fresh 33 

Butter, to make 33 

Butter, to sweeten 33 

Business calls 175 

Butternut 132 

Button holes in dresses 104 

Button holes in linen 104 

Buttons, to sew on 104 

By-laws of a club or society 194 

C 

Cabbage IS 

Cabbage, red pickled 46 

Cabbage, to prevent smell 34 

Cabbage or greens to cook 33 

Caffeine 132 

Cakes, baking 32 

Cakes, butter for 31 

Cakes, candied peel for 82 

Cakes, currants for 82 

Cakes, eggs for 81 

Cakes, how to make 31 

Cakes, oven for 32 

Cakes, oven door for 32 

Cakes, sugar for 32 

Cakes, tin for 32 

Cakes, to brown 32 

Cakes, to cut hot 81 

Cakes, to freshen. SS 

Cakes, to ice 81 

Cakes, to keep moist 88 

Calabar bean lit 



INDEX. 



325 



Page 

Calicoes, to set color in 30 

■Callgraph typewriter, care 189 

Calla-lilies, care ol ^''2 

Calling, etiquette of • I'^S 

Calomel 1*2 

Calomel, antidote for 147 

Calves' foot jelly 164 

Calves' head, to carve 48 

Camemtert cheese 49 

Camomile flowers 132 

Camphor 132 

Camphor, antidote for 146 

Camphor, spirits of 132 

Camphor, tincture of 132 

Camphorated alcohol 145 

Camphorated liniment 142 

Camphorated oil for friction 145 

Canada Balsam 132 

Canaries, cage to hang 166 

Canaries, claws to cut 166 

Canaries, diseases and cures 166 

Canaries, Indigestion 166 

Canaries, their food 166 

Canaries, their perches 166 

Canaries, to clean 166 

Canaries, treatment of 166 

Canaries, young 167 

Canaries, young to feed 167 

Canary nesting 167 

Cancer, cure of • 153 

Cancer, violet leaves for 153 

Candied citron and lemon peel 44 

Candied peel for cakes 32 

Candies, home made 32 

Candle-grease from carpet 55 

Candle-grease, to remove 62 

Candles, care of 55 

Candlesticks, to clean 55 

Cane chairs, to clean 57 

Cane chairs, to mend 57 

Canned foods 36 

Canning fruits 36 

Canning tomatoes 47 

Cantharides or Spanish flies 132 

Canvas back ducks, to carve 48 

Canvas back ducks, to prepare 34 

Canvas or tapestry embroidery 167 

Caprice, a dance 219 

Caraway seeds, medicinal 132 

Carbolic acid disinfectant 59 

Carbonate of soda 132 

Care of children 117 

Card games 213 

Card games, euchre 213 

Card games, euchre, progressive 213 

Card games, hearts 213 

Card games, pinochle 214 

Card games, whist 215 

Card games, whist bridge 216 

Card leaving 175 

Cards, fortune telling 198 

Cards, playing, to clean 55 

Cards, visiting 175 



Pag© 

Carminatives, uses of.... 127 

Carpets, care of 55 

Carpets, to clean with oxgall 56 

Carpets to clean with soap bark 55 

Carpets, to cleanse and brighten 30 

Carpets, to remove candle grease 55 

Carpets, to remove soot 30 

Carpets, to sweep 56 

Carriages for garden party 177 

Carrot ointment 142 

Carrots 16 

Carving 47 

Carving, beef 47 

Carving, birds and game 4S 

Carving, chicken 48 

Carving, ducks, 48 

Carving, ducks, wild 48 

Carving, fish 47 

Carving, goose 47 

Carving, ham 48 

Carving, lamb 48 

Carving, mutton 48 

Carving, pork 48 

Carving, turkey 48 

Carving, veal 48 

Cascarilla 132 

Castor oil 132 

Castor oil, doses 145 

Castor oil, to disguise the taste 161 

Catarrh and colds 153 

Catarrh, spray for 153 

Catechu 132 

Cathartics, uses of 127 

Catnip 133 

Cats, care of 167 

Cats, diseases 167 

Cats, falling hair 167 

Cats, feeding 167 

Cats, Infection 167 

Cats, kittening 167 

Cats, kittens 167 

Cats, poison 167 

Catsup, tomato 47 

Cauliflower 16 

Caustic potash, antidote for 1^6 

Caustics 127 

Caustics, lunar 137 

Cayenne pepper 12 

Cedar, oil of 137 

Celery ^^ 

Celery seed 34 

Cellar, wine 52 

Cellars, to air 56 

Cement for china 56 

Cement for cracks in wood 56 

Cement for iron and stone 56 

Cement for ivory 56 

Cement for jet 56 

Cement for mahogany furniture 57 

Cement for mending china 56 

Cement for wood 57 

Cement, greater 56 

Cement, how to use 66 



226 



INDEX. 



Cement, leather 

Cement, local 

Cement, meerschaum 

Cement, milk 

shell 

ointments, salves. 



Cement, 
Cerates, 
Cereals 
Cereals, 



Page 

. 56 

. 57 

. 57 

. 57 

. 57 
. 142 

. 12 

. 12 

. 12 

,. 12 

.. 12 

.. 12 

.. 12 

.. 13 

.. 12 

.. 15 

.. 12 

.. 12 

.. 13 

.. 12 

.. 145 

.. 119 

.. 34 

.. 90 

.. 57 

,.. 57 

... 57 

. . . 133 

... 57 

... 142 

... 57 



Page 

. ll» 
. 153 



barley 

Cereals, buckwheat 

Cereals, corn 

Cereal, fecula 

Cereal, flour 

Cereal, flour, chestnut 

Cereal, grits 

Cereal, oats 

Cereals, properties of 

Cereals, rice 

Cereals, rye 

Cereals, starch 

Cereals, wheat 

Cerecloth tor wounds 

Chafing, children 

Chafing dishes, their use 

Chains, care of 

Chairs, cane to clean 

Chairs, cane to mend 

Chairs, leather covered to clean 

Chalk 

Chalk for cleaning 

Chalk ointment 

Chamois leather for eye glasses 

Chamois leather for windows, etc 

Chamois leather gloves, to wash 

Chamois leather, how to use 

Chamois leather, to clean 

Champagne corks, to remove 

Chandeliers, to clean 

Chapped face 

Chapped hands 

Chapped legs 

Charcoal 

Charcoal disinfectant 

Charcoal for fires 

Chattel mortgages 

Cheddar cheese 

Cheese 

Cheese, to prevent moulding 

Cheesecloth, its uses 

Chemical stained hands 62 

Cherries, acid fruits 

Cherries, to dry 

Cherry brandy 

Chervil 

Chestnut flour 

Chestnuts 

Chicken pox 

Chickens, to carve 

Chickens, to choose 

Chicory 

Chicory for coffee 

Chicory of endive, to wash 34 

Chiffon, to stiffen 98 

Chiffon, to wash 99 



Chilblains, children 

Chilblains, remedy for ■ 

Chilblains, shoes for 153 

Chilblains, unbroken 1^3 

Children's care ^^"^ 

Children, Cooking for 126 

Children, meat for 126 

Chill sauce ^^ 

Chills, children 119 

Chills, treatment of 1^' 

133 

to keep C3 



Chimaphila 

Chimney lamps. 



China painting. 



200 



57 
93 

57 

57 

51 

58 

119 

119 

119 

133 

59 

58 

192 

49 

49 

34 

68 



13 
44 
44 
10 
12 
15 
122 
48 
18 
16 
16 



China, to clean stained 5* 

China, to mend 6* 

China, to mend fine 58 

China, to pack ^1 

Chirography or graphology 196 

Chirography examples 196 

Chives or scalllon 1* 

Chloral 1^* 

Chloral, antidote for 1*5 

Chlorate of potash 1^3 

Chlorate of potash gargle 141 

Chloride of lime, disinfectant 59 

Chloride of zinc In solution 13* 

Chloroform, antidote for 146 

Chloroform liniment 1** 

Chloroform, properties of 13* 

Chocolate stains 95 

Chocolate, to make *9 

Choking, children H* 

Choking, treatment for 1** 

Cholagogues, uses of 127 

Cholera infantum 

Chopper and bowl 

Chutney sauce 

Cinder In the eye 

Cinnamon 

Citric acid 

Citron and aloe perfume 

Citron and lemon peel, candied 

Civet perfume 

Claret punch 

Clarify brown soups 

Clarity honey for syrups 

Clarify sugar for Eyrup 

Clarify with egg-whites 

Cleanliness, baby' s 

Clearing liquid for silver 

Cloak, waterproof to clean 97 

Clothes (boys') cleaning W 

Clothes creased in packing 96 

Clothes, (men's) care of 91 

Clothes, (men's) cleaning, freshening 91 

Clothes (men's) creased 91 

Clothes, (women's) care of W 

Clothes line *' 

9S 



122 
27 
47 

155 
11 

13S 
86 
44 
86 
60 
24 
32 
S2 
24 
117 
68 



Clothes pins 

Clothes, to bleach stained 

Clothes, to blue 

Clothes, to iron 

Clothes, to remove mildew from. 
' Clothes, to remove stains from... 



98 
B8 
99 
9» 
W 



INDEX. 



227 



Page 

Clothes, to Bet color in 99 

Clothes, to sprinkle 98 

Clothes, to take out wrinkles 98 

Clothes, to wash 98 

Clothes, to whiten 98 

Clothes, to whiten without bleaching 98 

Clothing and Its care 89 

Clothing, baby's tight 1" 

Clothing, girls' 91 

Clothing, paint marks on 65 

Cloths for dusting, care of 58 

Cloths jelly, pudding, etc., to wash 58 

Cloves 11 

Club, by-laws and business of a 194 

Clubs, golf 204 

Coals, to save 58 

Cocaine 133 

Cockroaches, to destroy 58 

Cockroaches and water bugs 68 

Cocktails 50 

Cocktails, absinthe 50 

Cocktails, Manhattan 50 

Cocktails, soda 50 

Cocktails, whisky 50 

Cocoanut 14 

Coclfish, to carve 47 

Cod liver oil 133 

Coffee, disinfectant S9 

Coffee, for plants 171 

Coffee, how to make 49 

Coffee, Mazagran 50 

Coffee, stains from clothes 95 

Coffee, stains on table linen 102 

Coffee, to improve flavor 30 

Coffee, to keep 34 

Coffee, to test 34 

Coins, to clean 53 

Colchicum 133 

Colchicum, antidote for 146 

Cold cream, to make 85 

Cold in the head 30 

Cold in the head, outward application 153 

Cold in the head, remedy for 153 

Cold, hot drink for a 153 

Cold in the eye 155 

Cold, to break up a 29 

Colds, remedy for 154 

Collarbone, fracture of the 150 

Collars and shirts, to finish 101 

Colocynth 133 

Colombo 133 

Color, to restore to silk 96 

Color, to set in clothes 99 

Colored cottons, to wash 108 

Co'ored flannels, to wash 100 

Colored silks, to wash 108 

Colors to wear M 

Combs, to clean 58 

Combs, to use 75 

Comforts for sick room 162 

Common varnish 72 

Complexion, clearer 76 

Complexion, cream 84 



Page 

Condensed milk 40 

Conversation 177 

Convulsions, children's < 122 

Cooking, for children 126 

Cooking, for invalids 164 

Cooking, modes of 20 

Copper baths, to brighten B3 

Copper, kettle to clean 58 

Copper, pans to clean inside 58 

Copper, saucepans 27 

Copper, vessels to clean 58 

Copper, vessels to clean outside 58 

Copperas, deodorizer 13S 

Cordials, raspberry 51 

Cordials, uses for 127 

Corks, champagne to remove 51 

Corks, to fit bottles 58 

Corn 12 

Corns 154 

Corns, between the toes 154 

Corns, old 154 

Corns, soft 154 

Corns, chalk for 154 

Corrections of proofs 187 

Corroborants, uses of 127 

Corrosive, sublimate, antidote 147 

Cosmetic, strawberry 84 

Costlveness in children 123 

Cotillion, dance 81S 

Cotillion, favors 219 

Cotillion, leaders Il» 

Cottons, embroidery to wash 103 

Couching stitch, embroidery 107 

Cough, for a 154 

Coughs, medicine 165 

Coughs, mixture 165 

Coughs, remedy for a 154 

Covers, dish to clean 59 

Cowage, for worms 134 

Cracks in plaster, to till 68 

Cramps, for 154 

Cranberries 14 

Crape, to remove water marks 91 

Crape, to renovate II 

Cream, camphor 85 

Cream, cold 85 

Cream, complexion 84 

Cream, Fossati 86 

Cream, lanoline 85 

Cream of tartar 134 

Cream, shaving 85 

Cream, substitute for 29 

Cream, to keep sweet S4 

Creosote 134 

Creosote lotion 142 

Cretonne, to clean 73. 

Crochet HI 

Condiments 11 

Condiments, mixed 12 

Condiments, simple 11 

Condolences 181 

Consumptive, sweats to allay 3# 

Convalescents, eggs for 29 



228 



INDEX. 



Page 

Crochet, explanation of signs Ill 

Crochet, hairpin 112 

Crochet, needles or hooks Ill 

Crochet, picots 112 

Crochet, stitches used In Ill 

Crochet, to work HI 

Crochet, Tunisian HI 

Crochet, shawls to wash 101 

Croquet 205 

Croquet, arrangement of hoops 205 

Croquet, implements 205 

Croquet, technical terms 205 

Croton oil 134 

Croup 123 

Croup, alum for 1^6 

Crusts, use of dry 34 

Cucumber 16 

Cucumber Juice 85 

Cucumber, lotion 85 

Cucumber, pickled 46 

Culinary dictionary 1 

Culinary hints 29 

Cup, feeding for sick room 163 

Curling fluid for hair 78 

Curling water 78 

Currants 18 

Currants for cakes 32 

Currant jam 44 

Currants, to clean 34 

Currant wine 51 

Curtains, lace to blue 99 

Curtains, lace to darken 99 

Curtains, lace to finish 99 

Curtains, lace to prevent stretching 99 

Curtains, lace to starch 99 

Curtains, lace to wash 99 

cnirtalns, lace without Ironing 99 

Curtains, plush, grease on 59 

Curtains, silk, to clean 69 

Cushions, air for sick bed 163 

Cusparia 130 

Custard, baked 34 

Custard, boiled 34 

Custards, to cook 34 

Custards, to test 34 

Cut fingers, smoke for 149 

Cuts, care of 149 

Cuts, deep 149 

Cuts, turpentine for fresh 149 

Cuttings of plants 170 

Cyanides, antidote for 147 

D 

Dahlias 172 

Dances 218 

Dances, cotillion 219 

Dances, figures and steps 218 

Dances, lancers 218 

Dances, quadrille 218 

Dancers, schottishe 218 

Dances, two-step 219 

Dances, Torke 219 

Dances, waltz 218 



Page 

Dances, iraltz caprice 219 

Dandelion 134 

Dandelion tea 144 

Dandruff, cure for 7S 

Dandruff lotion M 

Dandruff ointment 83 

Dandruff, treatment for 76 

Dandruff wash 86 

Darning 105 

Darning on netting us 

Dates, dry fruit 14 

Deadly nightshade 134 

Deafness in children llj> 

Decoction, logwood 148 

Decoction of medicines 143 

Decoction of sarcaparilla 143 

Decoctions, medicinal 140 

Decorating fish and cutlets 29 

Dellriants, uses of 127 

Demulcents, uses of 127 

Dental hints 168 

Dentrifice, salt as a 30 

Dentrifice, toothpowder 84 

Deobstruents, uses of 127 

Descutients, uses of 127 

Designs, to transfer 108 

Detergents, uses of 127 

Diabetes, alum for 12t 

Diamonds, care of 90 

Diaphoretics, uses of 127 

Diarrhoea, children 123 

Dictionary, culinary 1 

Diet, care in 140 

Diet for obesity '. 160 

Dieting 140 

Dieting, absolute 140 

Dieting, animal 140 

Dieting, curative 140 

Dieting, dry 140 

Dieting, fibrinous 140 

Dieting, milk 140 

Dieting, partial 140 

Dieting, preservative 140 

Dieting, severe 140 

Dieting, vegetable 140 

Digestion of medicines 140 

Digestion, to aid 29 

Digestives, uses of 127 

Digitalis, antidote for 147 

Digitalis, tincture 134 

Diluents, uses of 127 

Dinner bill of fare 178 

Dinner parties, to give 178 

Dinner, serve a 178 

Dinner table etiquette 178 

Dinner napkins, use of 102 

Diphtheria 12S 

Diphtheria, nursing 123 

Disease, infectious, contagious 128 

D'seases, symptoms of infectious 122 

Diseases, their symptoms 125 

Diseases, when they appear 125 

Dish cover, to clean M 



INDEX. 



229 



Page 

Dishes, broken, to mend 69 

Dishes, discolored by tea 20 

Dishes, marks made by hot 65 

Dishes, to wash 59 

Disinfectant for bedrooms 30 

Disinfectants, ammonia (household) 59 

Disinfectants, borax (household) 59 

Disinfectants, carbolic acid 59 

Disinfectants, charcoal 59 

Disinfectants, chloride of lime 59 

Disinfectants, coffee 59 

Disinfectants, formaldehyde 135 

Disinfectants, household 59 

Disinfectants, pine tar i . 138 

Disinfectants, plaster of Paris 59 

Disinfectants, water as 160 

Diuretics, uses of 127 

Dogs 16S 

Dogs, care of 168 

Dogs, fleas on 168 

Domestic pets 166 

Domestic prescriptions 144 

Dover's powders 134 

Down pillows, how to make 67 

Drastics, uses of 127 

Draw fowl or poultry 35 

Drawer that sticks 59 

Drawn or open work 113 

Drawn or open stitches, for 113 

Dredglngs 25 

Dressmaking hints 89 

Dress measurements, to take 89 

Dress old, to renovate 94 

Dress the hair, to 78 

Dresses, care of 90 

Dresses, to pack 96 

Drink, tamarind |143 

Drinks and cocktails 60 

Drinks, medicinal 143 

Drinks, medicinal decoctions 143 

Drinks, medicinal teas 14J 

Drinks, wines and liquors 50 

Dripping, soup 34 

Dropsy cure 154 

Drowning, treatment 144 

Dry fruits 14 

Ducks, stuffing for 42 

Ducks, to carve 48 

Ducklings, to carve 48 

Ducks, to choose 18 

Ducks, to prepare canvas-back 34 

Ducks, wild 18 

Ducks, wild, to carve 48 

Dumb bell exercise 182 

Dust a room, to 67 

Dye, feathers 92 

Dyes, hair 79 

Dysentary, bismuth for 131 

Dyspepsia, a stomachic for 29 



Ear-ache 154 

£ar-ach«, Children's 123 



Page 

Bars, children's 119 

Bars, object in 120 

Eau-de-cologne, formulas for 87 

Ec2,ema in children 120 

Eczema lotion 85 

Ecz,ema sulphur ointment 120 

Education 184 

Egg and its uses 29 

Egging and crumbing 35 

Egg-nog 50 

Egg-plant 16 

Eggs, cracked to boll 34 

Eggs, cracked to cook 34 

Eggs for cakes 31 

Eggs for Invalids 164 

Eggs for young children 128 

Eggs, hatching 168 

Eggs, to lime 35 

Eggs, to preserve 35 

Eggs, to whip 30 

Egg spoons, to clean 30 

Egg whites for clarifying 24 

Egg yolks, to keep 35 

Elder flower lotion 85 

Embrocations (see liniments) 142 

Embroidery, French knots 108 

Embroidery, Kensington or flat 106 

Embroidery, Renaissance 108 

Embroidery, Richelieu 108 

Embroidery scallops 108 

Embroidery stitches 106 

Embroidery, tapestry or canvas 107 

Embroidery, Venetian 108 

Embroidery, white 108 

Emeralds, their care 90 

Emergency cases 144 

Emergency medicine chest 145 

Emetics 146 

Emetics for poisons 146 

Emetics, ipecacuanha 146 

Emetics, mustard 146 

Emetics, salt 146 

Emetics, sulphate of zinc 146 

Emetics, uses for 127 

Emetics, when to give 146 

Emmenagogues, uses for 127 

Emollients, uses for 127 

Enema, child's aperient 117 

Enemas or injections 141 

Enemas or asafoetida 141 

Enemas for bleeding bowels 141 

Enemas, laxative (Epsom salts) 142 

Enemas, nutritive (beef tea) 142 

Enemas, opium 142 

Enemas, purgative (castor oil) 142 

Enemas to check purging 142 

Enemas, turpentine 142 

Engravings, to clean 59 

Epispastics, uses of 127 

Epsom Salts 134 

Ergot 134 

Errhines, uses of 123 

Eschaiotlcs, uses of 128 

Espagnole or brown sauce 24 



230 



IXDEX. 



Page 

Essence of anchovies 46 

Essence of beef 164 

Essence of ginger 87 

Essence of lemon 88 

Etiier 134 

Etlier, antidote for 146 

Ether, nitric 134 

Ether, sulphuric 134 

Ether, sulphuric, compound spirits 134 

Ether, sweet spirits of nitric 137 

Etiquette 175 

Euchre, card game 213 

Euchre, progressive 213 

Exercise for obesity 160 

Exercise with dumb bells 182 

Expectorants, uses for 128 

Extract, Liebig's 46 

Extract, pinlj 88 

Extract, rose 88 

Eyebrows, scurf in the 77 

Eybrows, thin 76 

Eyebrows, to darljen 77 

Eyebrows, to strengthen 76 

Eyebrows, what Lhey denote 76 

Eyelashes, care of 77 

Eyelet-holes, to make 104 

Eyelids, inflamed 155 

Eyelids, red 77 

Eyes, aching 76 

Eyes, acid in the 154 

Eyes, care of 154 

Eyes, children's 120 

Eyes, cinder in the 155 

Eyes, cold in the 155 

Eyes, dry the 76 

Eyes, flabbiness under the 76 

Eyes, granulated 155 

Eyes, inflamed 155 

Eyes, quicklime in the 155 

Eyes, short sight in children 120 

Eyes, sore 155 

Eyes, stye 158 

Eyes, swollen and bloodshot 155 

Eyes weak, a wash for 76 

Eyes, wounds in the 151 

Eye-water, acetate of zjnc 129 

F 

Fabrics, to render inflammable 59 

Face powder, to use 77 

Face shiny, for a 77 

Face, small spots on the 77 

Face, superfluous hair 79 

Facial massage 77 

Fainting 155 

Fainting fits in children 120 

False hair, care of 79 

False hair, wearing 79 

Family marketing 18 

Fancy work 106 

Farinaceous vegetables 16 

Fat 21 

Fat frying, to clear 35 

Fat goose, to render 37 



Page 

Pat, temperature of 35 

Fat, to clarify 35 

Feather stitching 105 

Feathers, for beds, to clean 59 

Feathers, to curl 92 

Feathers, to dye 92 

Feathers, to freshen 92 

Feathers, to re-curl 92 

Feathers to re-curl with salt SO 

Feathers, to wash 93 

Feathers, white to clean 81 

Febrifuges, uses for IJg 

Fecula U 

Feeding, irregular U7 

Feet, children's, care of 120 

Feet, damp 77 

Feet, offensive, ointment for 143 

Feet, tender in hot weather 77 

Feet, tired, for 29 

Feet tired from standing 77 

Felons 155 

Felt hats, black to clean 98 

Fenders, black to polish 60 

Fennel 10 

Fern, root male 134 

Ferns, care of 173 

Fester, to poultice 143 

Fever cured with sulphur 156 

Fever, hay 156 

Fevers, various kinds of 156 

Fibrin of meat 21 

Figs 14 

Figs, dry to freshen 35 

Figure, to develop 183 

Filter, a cheap 60 

Filter, medicinal wines and liquors 140 

Fine herbs 10 

Fingers, bruised 120 

Fingers, fish hook in the 149 

Fingers, fracture of the 160 

Finger marks from paint 65 

Finger nails, care of 81 

Fingers, pinched 14f 

Finger stains 80 

Finger stains, to remove 69 

Finger, to remove tight ring , IBO 

Fire, a clear broiling 60 

Fire extinguisher 30 

Fire, grease spilled on the 30 

Fire in chimneys 60 

Fire preventive, alum 139 

Fire, to escape from 60 

Fire, to extinguish 60 

Fire, to light a 60 

Fire, to quench 146 

Fire, to revive 30 

Fire, what to do in case of 60 

Fish bone antidote 147 

Fish bones, to dislodge 29 

Fish, crimped 35 

Fish, fresh 24 

Fish, fresh seasons for 7 

Fish, fresh time for cooking 24 

Fish, gold to manage. 168 



INDEX. 



231 



Page 

Fish hook ill finger 149 

Fish kettle, its uses 26 

Fish, shell 24 

Fish, shell, seasons for 7 

Fish stock 24 

Fish, to carve 47 

Pish, to decorate 29 

Fish to fillet 35 

Fish, to scale 36 

Fits, fainting 120 

Flannel garments, to wash 100 

Flannels, colored, to wash 100 

Flannels, hard 100 

Flannels, stains on 69 

Flannels, to wash 100 

Flannels, white, to bleach 100 

Flat irons, care of 60 

Flat irons for shirt waists 103 

Flavoring, lemon 29 

Flaxseed jelly 164 

Flaxseed poultice 143 

Pleabane 135 

Fleas on dogs 168 

Flesh, to reduce 30 

Flies, to destroy 60 

Flies, to kill 60 

Floor, dancing to prepare 60 

Floor, grease Bpots on 62 

Floor, kitchen to scrub 63 

Floor stain, dark brown 69 

Floors and woodwork, to scrub 73 

Floors, bedrooms to freshen 60 

Floors, to scrub 60 

Floriculture and gardening 170 

Florist, to become a 174 

Florist, the price 174 

Flour 12 

Flour, chestnut 12 

Flour, to brown 26 

Flour, to choose good 3( 

Flour to extinguish fire (0 

Flour jar, to keep 36 

Flowers and leaves, to embroider 107 

Flowers and their care 170 

Flowers, cut to revive 172 

Flowers for Invalids 172 

Flowers, parts of 170 

Flower seeds, to gather 171 

Flower seeds, to sow 170 

Flower seeds, window garden 170 

Flower slips, to plant 170 

Flowers, soda for 172 

Flowers to bloom in winter 172 

Flowers to revive blossoms 30 

Flower vases gj 

Fontanelle in children UO 

Food 2 

Food, antidote for poisonous 147 

Food burnt, to remedy 3g 

Food, insufficient for babies HT 

Pood, nutritious 29 

Pood seasons for months 7 

Pood, starchy for babes 117 



Page 

84 



Pood, to dislodge from teeth 

Food, to prevent drying 36 

Foods, canned 36 

Foods, winter 155 

Footwear nevers 94 

Forks and spoons, to keep 68 

Formaldehyde, disinfectant 135 

Formulas g4 

Formulas, cosmetics 84 

Formulas, creams 34 

Formulas, essences 37 

Formulas, extracts gg 

Formulas, lotions 85 

Formulas miscellaneous gg 

Formulas ointments gg 

Formulas, perfumes 86 

Formulas, sachet powders 86 

Formulas, smelling salts 87 

Formulas, toilet vinegars 87 

Formulas, toilet waters gg 

Fortune telling cards igg 

Fortune telling in tea-cup 199 

Possati cream 35 

Fowl or chicken, to choose ig 

Fowl or game, to lard 35 

Fowl or poultry, to draw sg 

Fowl, to whiten 35' 

Fowler's solution of arsenic 135 

Fractures and their treatment 150 

Fractures, collar-bone 150 

Fractures, fingers 150 

Fractures, jaw 150 

Fractures, ribs 150 

Fractures, skull 150 

Fractures, different 150 

Frames, gilt to clean ei 

Frames, to clean with albumen 61 

Frames, to clean with onion 61 

Freckle lotion 35 

Freckles, parsley cure 73 

Freckles, summer 73 

Freckles, their cause and cure 73 

Freckles, to remove 73 

Freckles, to remove 35 

French and languages, to study 137 

French knots, to embroider 1O8 

French mustard 45 

French social terms 175 

Fresh herbs 10 

Friar's balsam 135 

Fritters, to fry S6 

Frost bites and sores 155 

Fruit bottled without sugar 44 

Fruit canning 35 

Fruit combinations for jams 43 

Fruit eating sg 

Fruit, how to pack 36 

Fruit, how to pick 37 

Fruit punch 50 

Fruit stains from clothes 95 

Fruit stains on hands 70 

Fruit stains on table linen 102 

Fruit stains, to remove 69 



232 



INDEX. 



Page 

Fruit stewed for children 126 

36 



Fruit slewing 

Fruit storing, apples, etc. 

Fruit, to cooli 

Fruit, their Beasons 

Fruit, their species 

Fruits, acid 

Fruits, acidulated 

Fruits, aromatic 

Fru its, astringent 

Fruits, dry 

Fruits, leculent 

Fruits, oily 

Fruits, sweet 

Fruits, watery. 



Page 
. 209 



Frying materials ^^ 



66 

27 

asi 



Frying pans, care of 

Frying pans, to select 

Funerals ^ 

Funerals, condolences l*^ 

Fungus, to destroy ^^ 

Fur, grebe to clean 

Fur rugs, to clean 

Furs, to clean 

Furs, to mend 

Furs, to store 

Furs white, to clean 61 

Furniture cleaning *1 

Furniture, how to varnish 72 

Furniture leather, to clean 64 

Furniture, varnish for ''2 

Furniture, wicker to clean 73 



Fuchsias 



172 



G 



135 
135 
23 



Galbanum 

Gamboge 

Game, remarks on 

Game, seasons for 7 

Game, tline for cooking 23 

Game, to carve 48 

Game, to prevent tainting 37 

Games and sports 204 

Gardening l''" 

Garden party, to give 177 

Gargle, alum 1^5 

Gargles 141 

Gargles, acidulated 141 

Gargles, alum 141 

Gargles, chlorate of potash 141 

Gargles, sage 141 

Gargles, salivation 141 

Gargles, throat inflamed 141 

Gargles, tonsils enlarged 141 

Garlic 10 

Garlic, chapon 11 

Garnishes for dishes 37 

Gas, blackening celling 61 

Gas stove, management of 71 

Gases, ccal, fires, etc., antidotes 147 

Gathers, to stroke 105 

Gear of a bicycle 208 



Gear, to find the 

Geese, to choose 18 

Geese, to stuff 42 

Gelatine of meat 21 

Gelatine, to correct taste of 29 

General Information 19* 

Gentian 135 

Geranium 1''^ 

Giblets 19 

Gifts, wedding 180 

Gifts, wedding hints for 180 

Gin Hzz, 60 

Gin fizjz, golden 60 

Gin flzzi, silver 50 

Ginger 135 

Ginger beer 61 

Ginger essence 8T 

Ginger, preserved 45 

Girl's clothing 91 

Glass and china, to pack 61 

Glass, dirty to clean 61 

Glass globes, to clean 61 

Glass globes, to wash 61 

Glass goblets, remove stains tt 

Glass ground, antidote for 147 

Glass in frames, to clean 62 

Glass plate, scratches on 66 

Glass stoppers, to loosen 64 

Glass, to draw on 61 

Glass, to powder 62 

Glass, to prevent heat from cracking 62 

Glasses for serving wine 51 

Glauber's salts 135 

Globes, to clean 61 

Globes, to wash 61 

Gloves, care of 92 

Gloves kid, to clean 92 

Gloves, kid black to renovate 92 

Gloves, kid white to clean 92 

Gloves suede, to clean 92 

Gloves, to clean without benzine 92 

Gloves, to mend 92 

Gloves, to put on 93 

Gloves, to scent 93 

Gloves, to stretch 93 

Gloves, to wash chamois leather 93 

Glue to strengthen 62 

Glycerine 135 

Glycerine for burns 135 

Glycerine for wounds, etc 145 

Glycerine, its various uses 135 

Gnat bites 148 

Gnat bites, to reduce irritation 29 

Goblets, to remove stains from 62 

Gold fish, to manage 168 

Golf 204 

Golf balls 204 

Golf clubs 204 

Golf technical terms 204 

Golf, to play 2fl« 

Gooseberries H 

Goose fat, to render 37 

Goose grass 135 



Gear of a chainless 208 Goose grass tea. 



144 



I^TDEX. 



233 



Page 

Goose, stuffing for 42 

Goose, to carve 48 

Gorgonzwla cheese 49 

Grafting plants 170 

Grafting, terms used in 171 

Grafting, tongue or cleft 171 

Grammar 184 

Grammar, correct speaking 184 

Grammar, correct spelling 185 

Granulated eyes 155 

Grapes 14 

Graphology 196 

Grass stains 70 

Grass stains from clothes .,... 95 

Grate-bars, red 62 

Grate, to clean a rusty 62 

Graters, kitchen 27 

Grease, candle to remove 62 

Grease smell on fire 30 

Grease spots from books 62 

Grease spots from cloth 30 

Grease spots from floor 62 

Grease spots from leather 62 

Grease spots from silk or woolen 96 

Grease spots, to remove 62 

Greasy silk or satin 96 

Greater cement 56 

Greengages In brandy 44 

Green peas 17 

Green peas, to bottle 46 

Greens, to cook 33 

Grits 13 

Gruyere cheese 49 

Guest, hints to a 177 

Gum syrup » 51 

Gum water for stiffening 99 

Gums, soft 156 

Gums, tender 78 

Gums, to cure 29 

Gymkhana contest 210 

Gymkhana contest colors 210 

H 

Haemastatics, uses for 128 

Hair, baby's 117 

Hair brittle 78 

Hair brushes, to clean 55 

Hair curling fluid 78 

Hair curling water 78 

Hair, cutting the 78 

Hair, drying the 79 

Hair dyes 79 

Hair dyes, antidotes for 147 

Hair false, care of 79 

Hair, false wearing 79 

Hair, grey premature 79 

Hair hot irons, use of 79 

Hair, salt for falling 30 

Hair shampoo, home gO 

Hair shampooing mixture gO 

Hair, superfluous on face 79 

Hair, to cleanse the 78 



Page 

Hair, to dress 73 

Hair, to keep in curl 78 

Hair, to lighten 79 

Hair, to make grow 79 

Hair, to prevent falling out 29 

Hair tonic 79 

Hair, wash for fair 79 

Hair wash, rosemary 80 

Hair wash, spirits of ammonia 129 

Hair, washing the 80 

Hair, weak and brittle 80 

Hair, why it falls out 80 

Hair and wire sieves, to clean 68 

Hairpin, crochet 112 

Halibut, to carve 47 

Ham, to carve 48 

Ham, to choose 19 

Ham, to cure 37 

Ham, to smoke 38 

Ham, tongue or beef, to boil 37 

Hands, chapped 80 

Hands, chapped, children's 119 

Hands, cleaning 80 

Hands, damp SO 

Hands, housemaids, to clean 62 

Hands, perspiring 80 

Hands, distressingly red hands 81 

Hands smooth, to keep 81 

Hands stained with chemicals 62 

Hands, stains on 29 

Hands sunburnt, to prevent 81 

Hands, to remove onion odor 31 

Hands, to remove stains 70 

Hands, to soften the SI 

Hands, varnish stains on 70 

Handkerchiefs, to purchase 93 

Handkerchiefs, to wash 100 

Handkerchiefs, to wash silk 100 

Hanging, treatment for 145 

Hats, black felt to clean 93 

Hats, care of men's 91 

Hats, care of women's 90 

Hats, straw to clean and bleach 93 

Hay fever H.56 

Head-aches 166 

Head-aches, children's j. 120 

Headaches cured with salt 30 

Headaches, nervous 156 

Headaches, to cure 29 

Heart, allay palpitation 29 

Hearts, card game 213 

Heel blistered 156 

Height of a healthy child 126 

Hellebore, black 131 

Hemlock leaves 135 

Hemorrhoids, ointment for 143 

Hemstitching 105 

Henbane, antidote for 146 

Hens 168 

Hens, eggs and hatching 168 

Hens, houses for 168 

Hens, to feed 168 



234 



INDEX. 



Page 

Herbs, bouquet sweet 11 

Herbs, fine 10 

Herbs, seasons for 10 

Herbs, winter 10 

Herring-boning 105 

Herring-boning, {ancy 106 

Hiccoughs, cures for 156 

Hiccoughs, vinegar cure 120 

Hints to a guest 177 

Hives, cure for 123 

Hoarseness, to relieve 29 

Holes, button In dress material 104 

Holes, button in linen 104 

Holes, eyelet 104 

Homeopathic medicines 169 

Homeopathy, principles of 159 

Honey 16 

Honey as medicine 135 

Honey to clarify for syrups S2 

Hop poultice 143 

Hop yeast 31 

Hops 135 

Horehound 135 

Horseback riding 210 

Horseback hints 201 

Horseback rules of the road 211 

Horseback, to dismount 210 

Horseback, to mount 210 

Horseradish 17 

Hot water bottles 163 

Household 53 

Household ammonia 59 

Household disinfectant 59 

Housemaid's hands, to clean 62 

Houseplants, care of 171 

Houseplants, to water 171 

Houseplants, where to keep 171 

Huckleberries 14 

Hydrogogues, uses for 128 

Hypnotics, uses for 128 

Hypophosltes 135 

Hysteria, remedy for 156 

I 

Ice, to keep In sick room 162 

Ice, to preserve 38 

Ice cream freezing mixtures 38 

Ice cream, how to make 38 

Ice cream Ingredients 38 

Ice cream, strawberry 38 

Ice cream, substitute for a freezer 38 

Ice cream, vanilla 88 

Ices, water 38 

Incombustible, to render linen 64 

Indigestion 1B6 

Indigestion, cure for 15 

Indigestion, to relieve SO 

Infectious diseases 126 

Infectious diseases, symptoms 122 

Inflamed eyes 155 

Inflammable, to render fabrics 69 

Information, general 194 

Information, medical 127 



Page 

Infusion of medicines 140 

Injections (see enemas) 141 

Ink, black «2 

Ink copying, simple 63 

Ink from paper, to remove 63 

Ink Indelible, antidote for 147 

Ink, invisible 63 

Ink marks on furniture 62 

Ink spots, to remove 62 

Ink stains 70 

Ink stains from marble 29 

Ink stains on floors 70 

Ink stains on table linen 102 

Insect bites 148 

Insect stings 151 

Insects, to destroy 63 

Interest rules 195 

Introductions 176 

Introductions, stations in life 176 

Invalid cooking 164 

Invalids, care of 162 

Invalids, room to clean 162 

Invitations, etiquette of 178 

Invitations for garden party 177 

Iodide of potassium 135 

Iodine 135 

Iodine poison, antidote tor 147 

Iodine stains from clothes 95 

Iodoform 136 

Ipecacuanha 186 

Iron as a tonic 136 

Iron baths 141 

Iron clothes, to 99 

Iron mould, to remove 99 

Iron napkins, to 102 

Iron, red rust stains 95 

Iron tablecloths, to 102 

Ironing board for shirt waists 103 

Ironing table 98 

Irons for shirt waists 103 

Irons, smoky and rough 30 

Irons, the care of 60 

Irons to use on hair 79 

Itch cure 167 

Itch, ointment for 142 

Itch sulphur ointment ._ 142 

It7 poisoning, antidote for 147 

J 

Jaborandl 136 

Jalap 136 

Jams 42 

Jams, combinations of fruits 43 

Jams, currant 44 

Jams, hints for making 43 

Jams, table for making 43 

Jams, the pan 42 

Jams, the sugar 43 

Jams, to bottle 48 

Jams, to know when done 43 

Jams, to make the ^3 

Jams, to skim 4t 

Japanned ware, to clean tt 



INDEX. 



235 



Page 

Jasper, to clean 63 

Jaundic9 124 

Jaw, fracture of the 150 

Jellies 43 

Jellies, clarified sjiup for 43 

Jellies, to mould 3S 

Jellies, to strain 39 

Jellies, to unmould 39 

Jelly, apple 44 

Jelly, call's foot 164 

Jelly cloth, to wash 58 

Jelly, flaxseed 164 

Jelly, quince , 45 

Jelly, soap 68 

Jerusalem artichokes 16 

Jewelry (silver), its care 90 

Jewels, their care 90 

Juice, beef for children 126 

Juice, cucumber 85 

Juniper berries 136 



Keeping preserves 44 

Kensington embroidery 106 

Kensington or encroaching stitch 107 



Kerosene, bright light for 

Kerosene for varnished paint 

Kerosene, stains on billiard tables. 



30 

65 

69 

Kettle, fish 26 

Kidneys, acetate of potassa for 129 

Kfllneys, belladonna for 130 

Kidneys, to keep in order 29 

Kindling wood, substitute for 41 

Kino 136 

Kissing children 120 

Kitchen basins 26 

Kitchen floor, to scrub 63 

Kitchen meat safe 27 

Kitchen stores 25 

Kitchen table 27 

Kitchen table, to cleanse 29 

Kitchen, the 25 

Kitchen use, for 26 

Kitchen utensils 26 

Kitchen utensils, list of 26 

Kitchen weights and measures 27 

Kittens, care of 167 

Kittening, time of 167 

Knees, stiff 157 

Kneipp cure 159 

Kneipp cure, effects of the water I59 

Kneipp cure, walking barefooted, etc 159 

Knife blades, to polish 63 

Knitted shavils, to wash lOi 

Knitting J22 



Knitting stitches 

Knives, ivory to whiten. 

Knives, to clean 

Knives, to keep 

Knives, to polish 

Knives, to wash 



Fag* 

Kummel, to make 51 

Kumyss, to make 144 

Lace, Battenberg 108 

Lace black, to renovate 94 

Lace curtains, to wash 99 

Lace dainty, to wash 109 

Lace edging, to wash loi 

Lace real, to iron 109 

Lace real, to pin out 100 

Lace real, to stiffen 101 

Lace real, to wash 109 

Lace, to iron loi 

Lace, to mend ^. 96 

Lactic acid 136 

Lamb, to carve 48 

Lamb, to choose 19 

Lamp burner 63 

Lamp chimney 6S 

Lamp duplex, to clean 63 

Lamp, to burn brightly 63 

Lamp, to clean 63 

Lamp, to clean bicycle 209 

Lamp wick that sticks 64 

Lamp wick, the 63 

Lamps, to keep bright 63 

Lancers, to dance the 218 

Languages, to study 187 

Lanoline cream 85 

Lard meats, to 39 

Lard to 39 

Lard, to purify rancid 39 

Larding needles, their use 2T 

Lardoon, the 39 

Laudanum, antidote for 147 

Laudanum lotion 142 

Laudanum, properties of 13S 

Laudanum, uses of 145 

Laundry work gg 

Laundry home work gg 

Laundering on mirror 103 

Lavender sachet powder 86 

Lavender salts gx 

Lavender smelling salts 88 

Lavender water gs 

Law 192 

Law, bankrupt, U. S 192 

Law, bills of sale 192 

Law, leases igj 

Law, mortgages 193 

Law, mortgages chattel 192 

Law, partnership 192 

Law, wills 193 

Lawn tennis 206 

Lawn tennis balls 206 

Ijawn tennis courts 208 

Lawn tennis game 2O6 

Lawn tennis odds 2O6 

Lawn tennis 3 and 4 handed 207 

Laxative enema 142 

Laxatives, uses of i2g 

Lead, acetate of 129 



236 



INDEX. 



Page 

Lead poisoning, antidote 14T 

Lead, sugar of 139 

Leaks, for sudden 6^ 

Leases, to draw up 192 

Leather belts, white to clean 90 

Leather covered furniture, to clean 6^ 

Leather furniture, to clean 57 

Leather grease spots, to remove 62 

Leather patent, to prevent (jracklng W 

Leather patent, varnish for 64 

Leather portmanteaus, to clean 64 

Leather trunks, to clean 64 

Leaves, old, on plants 172 

Leek, a condiment 11 

Leek, qualities of 17 

Lemon 11 

Lemon, acid fruit 13 

Lemon and its uses 29 

Lemon, essence of 88 

Lemon, stains from clothes 95 

Lemons, to keep 30 

Lemon, to keep fresh 29 

Lemon peel and citron 44 

Lemon peel for flavoring 29 

Lemon peel for fuel 30 

Lemonade for sore throat 165 

Lemonade hot SI 

Lemonade powders 51 

Lemon peel as a flavoring 39 

Letter, love, to write 186 

Letter writing 185 

Letter writing, addresses 186 

Letter writing, addresses, envelopes 186 

Letter writing, body of lettar 186 

Letter writing, closing 186 

Letter writing, heading 186 

Letter writing, postscripts 186 

Letters, to post 194 

Letters, to register ■. 195 

Lettuce 17 

Liaisons for soups 25 

Light, night for sick room 163 

Lightning, treatment for 145 

Limbs, to strengthen baby's 117 

Lime and oil liniment 142 

Lime for piano keys 64 

Lime water 136 

Lime water, Its uses 136 

Limes 72 

Linen, brown, to wash 101 

Linen, lustre on 98 

Linen, scorch mark on 98 

Linen table, to wash 102 

Linen, to render Incombustible 64 

Linen, to starch 98 

Liniments and embrocations 142 

Liniments, camphorated 142 

Liniments, chloroform 142 

Liniments, lime and oil 142 

Liniments, mustard and belladonna 142 

Liniments, turpentine 142 

Linoleum, to clean 64 

Linoleum, to clean with tea 65 



Page 

Linoleum, to soften 64 

Linseed 136 

Linseed oil 136 

Linseed oil for burns 145 

Linseed poultice 143 

Linseed tea 144 

Lips, cracked 81 

Lips, red 81 

Liqueur, orange 61 

Liquid for cleaning silver 6S 

Liquors, medicines to filter 140 

Liver, inactive 29 

Liver, sluggish 157 

Lobster 24 

Lobster, to boil 39 

Lobster, to serve 39 

Local cement 57 

Logwood decoction 143 

Logwood, properties of 136 

Longevity of plants 170 

Loss of meat by boiling 22 

Loss of meat by roasting 22 

Loss of weight of meats by cooking 22 

Lotion, cucumt>er 85 

Lotion, dandruff 86 

Lotion, elder-flower 85 

Lotion for eczema 85 

Lotion for freckles 85 

Lotion for greasy skin 86 

Lotion for moist greasy skin 86 

Lotion for oily skin 86 

Lotion, freckles, to remove 85 

Lotion, milk of roses 85 

Lotion, oatmeal 86 

Lotions and washes (medicinal) 142 

Lotions, arnica 142 

Lotions, creosote 142 

Lotions, laudanum 142 

Lotions, opium 143 

Lotions, salt 142 

Lotions, vinegar 142 

Lubricant stains, to remove 70 

Lunar caustic 157 

Lunar caustic, antidote for 146 

Luncheon parties 177 

Lye, antidote for 145 

M 

Macaroni 13 

Maceration of medicines 140 

Machine oil stains 95 

Machines, sewing, care, etc 189 

Mackintoshes, to clean 64 

Magnesia 137 

Magnesia, calcined 145 

Magnolia blossom perfume 86 

Mahogany furniture polish 64 

Mahogany stains, to remove 64 

Mahogany tables, white marks on 64 

Mahogany, to clean 64 

Maladies and their treatment 152 

Mallow 1S7 

Manhattan cocktail 60 

Manicure acid 29 



INDEX. 



237 



Page 

Manicuring 81 

Manicuring nail powder 82 

Manicuring pink salve 82 

Manicuring the nails 81 

Manicuring the nails 81 

Manto, 157 

Manure for plants 171 

Manuscripts, to prepare 194 

Manuscripts, to renew 194 

Marble, to clean 64 

Marble, ink stains from 29 

Marble mantels, to clean 65 

Marble washstands, to clean 65 

Marinade 26 

Marinade, cold 39 

Marinade, hot 39 

Marketing, family 18 

Marks of punctuation 187 

Marmalade, orange 45 

Marshmallow 137 

Massage, facial 77 

Massaging, articles for 77 

Massaging, to proceed 77 

Mastic varnish , 72 

Matting, care of 65 

Mayonnaise, prevent curdling 39 

Mazagran coffee 50 

Meal, almond ; 87 

Meals for a baby 126 

Meals, regular for children 120 

Meals, to serve a sick person 163 

Measles 124 

Measure of length 161 

Measure of solidity 161 

Measure of surface 161 

Measurements, dress, to take 89 

Measures and weighti, kitchen 27 

Measures and weights, medicine 161 

Meat, albumen of 21 

Meat, children's 126 

Meat, essence of 164 

Meat, fried 39 

Meal, frozen 39 

Meat, Liebeg's 46 

Meat, loss by boiling 22 

Meat, loss by roasting 22 

Meat, loss of weight by cooking 22 

Meat, roasting 40 

Meat safe 27 

Meat seasons, each month 7 

Meat, time for boiling 22 

Meat, time for broiling 22 

Meat, time for roasting 22 

Meat, to boil 20 

Meat, to braise 20 

Meat to broil 20 

Meat, to cook 20 

Meat, to fry 20 

Meat, to keep fresh 40 

Meat, to keep sweet 40 

Meat, to lard 39 

Meat, to roast.... 40 

Meat, to roast 20 

Meat, to saute 21 



Page 

Meat, to skim 21 

Meat, to stew 21 

Meat, to turn while roasting 40 

Meat, tough 40 

Meat, tough to remedy 30 

Meats and their accompaniments 23 

Meats, to lard, larding 39 

Meats to lardoou 39 

Meats, to lard, needle 39 

Meats, weight for a household of three 181 

Medical information 127 

Medical remedies, terms, etc 127 

Medical decoctions 143 

Medicinal drinks 143 

Medicinal teas 143 

Medicinal teas, dandelion 144 

Medicinal teas, goosegrass 144 

Medicinal teas, linseed 144 

Medicinal teas, senna 144 

Medicinal teas, white oak 144 

Medicinal wines, etc., to filter 140 

Medicine, autumn, for children 117 

Medicine chest for emergency cases 145 

Medicine, cough 165 

Medicine, decoction of 143 

Medicine, digestion of 140 

Medicine, giving to children 121 

Medicine, hints on taking 161 

Medicine, infusion of 140 

Medicine, maceration of 140 

Medicine, measures for 161 

Medicine, to prevent nauseous taste 161 

Medicine, weights for 162 

Medicines and their properties 129 

Medicines, how to give 144 

Medicines, homeopathic 159 

Medicines, terms to denote action , 127 

Meerschaum pipe, to clean 66 

Melon 14 

Mending basket 105 

Men's clothes, care of 91 

Men's clothes, cleaning and freshening 91 

Men's clothes, creased 91 

Men's hats 91 

Men's trousers 91 

Menu or bill of fare 178 

Meringue, to brown a 40 

Mice and rats, to exterminate 67 

Mice, drive away 67 

Mice holes, to stop up 67 

Mignonette 172 

Mildew stains from clothes 95 

Mildew, to remove 99 

Milk and bread for children 126 

Milk as a water softener 73 

Milk, boiled over 40 

Milk breasts. Inflamed 142 

Milk, condensed 40 

Milk, jugs to keep 68 

Milk of roses, lotion 85 

Milk, puddings for children 126 

Milk punch 51 

Milk, sterilized 40 

Milk sterilized, to administer 118 



238 



INDEX. 



Page 

Milk, Eugar of 1^9. 

Milk, to keep «> 

Milk, to preserve *<> 

Milk, to prevent browning 40 

Millinery, to pack 96 

Mint 11 

Mirror laundering x- 103 

Mirror, where to hang a 65 

Mixed condiments 12 

Mixed Bplces H 

Modes of cooking 20 

Moles, treatment ^1 

Monk's hood, antidote for 146 

Mortar and pestle 27 

Morphine 1''^ 

Morphine, antidote for W7 

Mortgages 1'2 

Mortgages, chattel 192 

Mosquito bites 1^8 

Moth patches, their cure 81 

Moths, to keep from carpet 20 

Moths, to keep out 65 

Mourning, its usage 93 

Mouth, ulcerated 137 

Mouth wash 157 

Mouth wash, strengthening 81 

Mouth washes, their use 81 

Mucilage, to prevent moulding 65 

Muff, to reline 93 

Mulled wine 51 

Mumps, cure for 124 

Muriatic acid 13' 

Muriatic acid, antidote 146 

Mushrooms and toadstools 40 

Music for garden party 1" 

Musk perfume 86 

Mustard 12 

Mustard liniment 142 

Mustard foot baths 141 

Mustard, French 46 

Mustard, medicinally 137 

Mustard plaster 143 

Mustard plaster, without blistering 29 

Mustard poultice 143 

Mustard, to mix 40 

Mutton, economical joints 22 

Mutton, to carve ; 48 

Mutton, to choose 19 

Mutton, to roast and flavor 81 

Mutton soup 24 

N 

Nails, biting finger 121 

NailB, brittle 82 

Nails, care of baby's 117 

Nails, children's 121 

Nails, powder 82 

Nails, to drive in 65 

Nails, to whiten 82 

Nails, toe, children's 122 

Nails, toe. ingrowing 158 

Nails, weak 82 

Napkins, iron table 102 

Napkins, use of 179 



Pa«9 

Napkins, to wash 102 

Narcotics, uses of 128 

Nasturtium seeds, to pickle 46 

Nasturtiums, care of 72 

Neck, brown mark on 32 

Neck, paste for whitening 82 

Neck, to whiten the 75 

Nectarines 14 

Needle and fancy work 104 

Needle, larding 39 

Needlework, stiffen new 106 

Needlework, suggestions 104 

Needlei 104 

Needle crochet Ill 

Needle knitting 112 

Needle larding 27 

Needle netting 115 

Nervous prostration 167 

Network 114 

Network patterns 115 

Network patterns, diamond 115 

Network, tracing with stitches 114 

Netting 119 

Netting, cushion 115 

Netting, darning on 116 

Netting, loops .^.... 116 

Netting, materials 115 

Netting, mesh 115 

Netting, needle 115 

Netting, stitches 115 

Neufchatel cheese 49 

Neuralgia 157 

Neuralgia, cure for 1B7 

Neuralgia, in children 181 

Neuralgia, spinal weakness liS 

Newspapers, use of 65 

Nickel, articles to polish 71 

Nipples, sore, ointment for 142 

Nitrate of amyl 137 

Nitrate of silver 1S7 

Nitrate of silver, stains 70 

Nitre, sweet spirits of 137 

Nitric acid, antidote for 146 

Nitric ether 134 

Nose bleeding, to stop 157 

Noses, cure of red 82 

Nurse, how to wake the 163 

Nursery, the 117 

Nursery, to ventilate 13* 

Nursing bottles 117 

Nursing mother 120 

Nutmeg 11 

Nutmegs, to test 40 

Nutrients, uses of 128 

Nutritive enema 142 

Nuts 14 

Nuts, to digest '0 

Nux vomica, antidote 148 

Nux vomica, properties of H7 



Oak bark 

Oak bark stain. 



137 



INDEX. 



239 



Oatmeal for the skin 

Oatmeal lotion 

Oatmeal, to remove stains. 
Oats 



Page 
. 83 



70 

12 

Obesity 159 

Obesity, diet 159 

Obesity, exercise 159 

Obesity, to reduce flesh 30 

Obesity, to reduce stoutness 159 

Odor from onions, to remove 40 

Odors in sinks, to remove 30 

Offensive breath, euro for 29 

Oil, almond 75 

Oil, castor 132 

on, cedar 137 

Oil, codliver 133 

Oil, croton 134 

Oil, linseed 136 

Oil, linseed for burns 145 

Oil, stains 70 

Oil, sweet almonds 145 

Oil, turpentine 137 

Oil, vitriol 137 

Oilcloth, to clean 65 

Oilcloths, care of 65 

Oily fruits 14 

Ointment, carrot 142 

Ointment, chalk 142 

Ointment, for burns 142 

Ointment for dandruff 86 

Ointment for hemorrhoids ,... 143 

Ointment for Itch 142 

Ointment for sore nipples 142 

Ointment for piles 143 

Ointment for scrofulous ulcerations 143 

Ointment for sores and offensive feet 143 

Ointment, cerates and salves 142 

Olives, their kind; how to serve 15 

Omelet pan, care of 66 

Onions, disagreeable consequence 31 

Onions, In invalid's room ; 31 

Onions, odor from the breath v- • ■ • 31 

Onions, odor from the hands 31 

Onions, quality of 17 

Onions, remarks on 31 

Onions, remove odor of 40 

Onions, syrup 165 

Onions, to fry 31 

Onions, to peel 31 

Onions with leg of mutton 31 

Opium 137 

Opium, enema 142 

Opium, lotion 142 

Opium poison, antidote 147 

Orange liqueur 51 

Orange marmalade 45 

Orange peels 11 

Orange rinds, uses for 40 

Orange stains, from clothes 95 

OraTiges 13 

Ordor of business of a club I94 

Ornaments, bronze, to clean 65 

Orris root 138 

Osmazone 21 



^ i. Page 

Outing, baby's 117 

Oven door 32 

Oven for cakes 32 

Oven testing, for bread 31 

Oven, the heat of the 40 

Over sleeping 153 

Oxalic acid, antidote for 146 

Oxgall 65 

Oxgall as a cleaner 55 

Oxide of zinc 133 

Oyster plant yj 

Oysters 25 



Pack a trunk, to 

Pack fruits 

Packing, creases in clothes 

Packing dresses 

Paint brushes, to clean 

Paint, fresh, to remove 

Paint marks on clothing 

Paint stains 

Paint stains on glass 

Paint stains on satin 

Paint, to remove finger marks from 

Paint, to remove smell of 

Paint, varnished, cleaned with kerosene. 

Paint, white, varnish for 

Painted rooms, to remove smell 

Painting, art of 

Painting easel 

Painting mahlstick or rest 



.. 96 

.. 96 

.. 201 

.. 65 

.. 65 

.. 70 

.. TO 

.. 70 

,. 65 

.. 66 

.. 65 

,. 72 

,. 65 

,. 200 

.. 200 

. 200 

Painting, necessary colors for landscape 200 

Painting, necessary colors for portrait 200 

Painting palettes 200 

Painting, China 20O 

Painting, brushes and their care 201 

Painting, colors 201 

Painting daubers 201 

Painting implements 200 

Painting on terra cotta 201 

Painting, turpentine or fat oil 201 

Painting, work to sketch 201 

Painting damp walls 55 

Paintings, to clean 65 

Paintings, oil, to clean 55 

Paints, oil color 200 

Paints, water color 20O 

Palettes 2OO 

Palmistry 197 

Palmistry, to take hand impressions 198 

Palms, care of 173 

Palms, manure for 173 

Palms, re-potting 173 

Palms, to keep 173 

Palms, to purchase 173- 

Pan for jams 42 

Pan, omelet, care of 66 

Pans, frying, care of 27 

Pans, preserving 27 

Pantry, the 42 

Paper, brown, uses of ' 66 

Paper, news, for windows 65 

Paper, tracing loe 



240 



INDEX. 



Page 

Paper, wall, to ''3 

Paregoric 13* 

Paregoric, Its uses I'lS 

Paregoric, poison, antidote 147 

Paregoric, uses for 128 

Paris green, antidote 146 

Parmesan cheese 49 

Parrots 1^^ 

Parrots, cleanliness ^*^ 

Parrots, food 1^9 

Parrots, food to be avoided 169 

Parrots, playthings 1^9 

Parrots, sickness 1^9 

Parrots, teaching 169 

Parrots, water ^69 

Parrots, where to keep 169 

Parsley ^^ 

Parsley, cure for freckles 78 

Parsley, juice for coloring 41 

Parsley, to keep good color 41 

Parsley, to powder 41 

Parties, dinner ^"^^ 

Parties, garden l"' 

Parties, luncheon ^^'^ 

Parties, theatre 1'9 

Partnership ^92 

Partridges, to carve ''* 

Paste for jams and jellies 29 

Paste for labels on metal 63 

Paste for paper hanging 66 

Paste for postage stamps 66 

Paste lor whitening the neck •• ■ • • S2 

Paste superior to gum arable 66 

Pastry making 30 

Patterns traced against windows 106 

Patterns with looking glasses 106 

Paume volante or shuttlecock tennis 207 

Peach ^^ 

, 86 

15 

90 



Peach, almond and cherry perfume. 

Peanuts 

Pearls, their care 

Pears 



15 

Pears, to Store 37 

Peau d'Espagne perfume 88 

Peels, candied, citron, lemon 44 

Peels, candied for cakes 32 

Peels of oranges and lemons 11 

Pens, use for old 66 

Penwiper of potato 66 

Pepper 12 

Pepper, cayenne 12 

Pepper, red 12 

Pepper, spiced 26 

Pepper, spiced to make 47 

Pepsin 138 

Perfume, a room to 86 

Perfumes 86 

Perfumes, ambergris 86 

Perfumes, attar of roses 86 

Perfumes, citron and aloe wood 86 

Perfumes, civet 86 

Perfumes, eau-de-cologne 87 

Perfumes, extract of pink 88 

Perfumes, extract of rose 88 



Perfumes, magnolia blossoms 

Perfumes, musk 

Perfumes, peach, almond and cherry. 

Perfumes, peau d' Espagne 

Perfumes, petal powder 

Perfumes, tuberoses and lilies 

Peroxide of hydrogen , 

Perspiration stains 

Perspiration under the arms 

Pestle and mortar 

Petal powder perfume 



Pago 



"S 

138 

70 

82 

27 

86 

Petunias, to grow 173 

Phenacctine 138 

Pheasants, to carve 48 

Phosphoric acid 138 

Phosphorus, antidote for 147 

Photography 201 

Physical culture for women 182 

Piano fortes, care of 187 

Piano fortes, dampness 187 

Piano fortes, remarks 187 

Piano fortes, to polish 187 

Piano fortes, position 187 

Pianofortes, tuning 187 

Piano keys, lime for 64 

Piano keys, to keep 66 

Piano keys, to whiten 66 

Piano practice 187 

Pick fruits, how and when 37 

Pickled cucumbers 46 

Pickled nasturtium seeds 46 

Pickled red cabbage 46 

Pickles 45 

Pickles, parboiled 45 

Pickles, to detect copper in 46 

Pickles, vinegar 46 

Pickles, vinegar, the 4f 

Pickles, vinegar, hot and cold 45 

Pickling, hints on 45 

Picnics, how to give 179 

Picnics, provisions 179 

Picnics, what to wear 179 

Picture frames, to clean 61 

Pies, to make 41 

Pigeons, to choose 18 

Piles, ointment for ^. 143 

Pillows, down, to make 67 

Pills, aperient 130 

Pineapple 13 

Pine tar, disinfectant 138 

Ping-pong, table tennis 205 

Ping-pong rules 205 

Ping-pong, the net 205 

Pink, extract of 88 

Pinochle 214 

P'nochle cautions 214 

Pinochle, melds 214 

Pinochle, two-handed 214 

Pinochle, three-handed 214 

Pinochle, three-handed, melds 214 

Pinochle, four-handed 214 

Pins, to dislodge 147 

Pipe, to clean M 

Pipe, meerschaum, to clean 68 



INDEX. 



241 



Page 

Pipsissewa J3> 

Pitch stains 70 

Plantains or bananas 95 

Planting bulbs 170 

Planting slips 170 

Plants, ammonia for 171 

Plants, ants, to keep from 171 

Plants, budding 170 

Plants, cuttings of 170 

Plants, frozen 171 

Plants, grafting 170 

Plants, house, care of 171 

Plants, house, to water 171 

Plants, longevity of 170 

Plants, manure for 171 

Plants, old leaves on 172 

Plants, room 171 

Plants, rubber, care of 171 

Plants, tea and coffee for 171 

Plants, to trim 171 

Plants, to water 171 

Plants, where to keep 171 

Plaster, cracks, to fill in 68 

Plaster, mustard 143 

Plaster of Paris, disinfectant 5$ 

Plate, to clean 66 

Plate glass, scratches, to remove 66 

Playing cards, to clean -., 55 

Plump, to become 160 

Plums 14 

Plush curtains, grease on 67 

Plush, to raise the pile 97 

Plush upholstery, grease on 67 

Pneumonia, a cure for 157 

Poisons and their antidotes 145 

Poisons, classes of 145 

Poisonings, treatment for 145 

Poisonous food 147 

Poker work or pyrography 203 

Polish for mahogany 64 

Pomegranate 15 

Pont I'Eveque cheese 49 

Pork, to carve 48 

Pork, to choose 19 

Forphry, to clean 63 

Portmanteaus, to clean 64 

Postage, foreign 195 

Postage, letter to register 195 

Postage rates 194 

Postal money orders 195 

Potassa, acetate of 129 

Potato 71 

Potato peel, to dispose 41 

Potato, peelings for chickens 41 

Potato, penwiper 66 

Potato, poultice 143 

Potato, sweet 17 

Potato, yeast 31 

Potting, soil for 170 

Poultice a wound 143 

Poultices 143 

Poultices, bran .i 143 

Poultices, bread and milk 143 

Poultices, bryony 143 



Page 

Poultices for a fester 143 

Poultices, hop 143 

Poultices, linseed or flaxseed 143 

Poultices, mustard 143 

Poultices, potato 143 

Poultices, to apply 143 

Poultry, seasons for 7 

Poultry, to choose 18 

Poultry, to judge tender 41 

Pousse cafe go 

Powder, antimonial 130 

Powder, face to use 77 

Powder, lemonade 51 

Powder, nail (manicure) 82 

Powder, nursery 121 

Powder, sachet, fragrant 86 

Powder, sachet, lavender 86 

Powder, sachet, rose 86 

Powder, sachet, rose leaves dried 86 

Powder, sachet, verbena 86 

Powder, sachet, violet 87 

Powder, sachet, violet, very simple 87 

Powder, toilet 87 

Powder, tooth 84 

Powder, tooth, simple 84 

Powders. Dover 134 

Powders, giving children 121 

Powders, seldlitz isj 

Precautions when visiting sick 163 

Prescriptions, domestic 144 

Preserved ginger 45 

Preserved 'watermelon 45 

Preserves 43 

Preserves, proportions 44 

Preserves, to keep 44 

Preserves, utensils 44 

Preserving pans 27 

Prickly heat 157 

Progressive euchre 213 

Proof, corrections for the press IS7 

Properties of cereals 15 

Properties of medicines 129 

Properties of roots 15 

Properties of vegetable plants 16 

Properties of vegetables 15 

Prophylactics, uses for 128 

Prunes • 14 

Puddings 41 

Puddings, baked 41 

Puddings, batter 41 

Puddings, boiled in a mould 41 

Puddings, cloths 41 

Puddings, milk for children 126 

Puddings, steamed 41 

Puddings, to boil 41 

Puddings, to Steam 41 

Pulley for a sick bed 163 

Pumpkin 17 

Punch, brandy 50 

Punch, claret 50 

Punch, fruit 50 

Punch, milk 61 

Punctuation marks 187 

Purgative, castor oil 132 



242 



INDEX. 



Page 

Purgative, enema 142 

Purgatives, uses of 128 

Putty 67 

Pyrography 203 

Pyrography, the burning machine 203 

Pyrography, the work 203 

Q 

Quadrille, to dance 218 

Quails, to carve 48 

Quassia 138 

Quicklime, antidote for 146 

Quicklime, in the eye 155 

Quince 14 

Quince jelly 45 

Quince qualities 14 

Quinine 138 

R 

Radishes 17 

Raisins 14 

Raisins, to stone 41 

Raspberry 14 

Raspberry cordial 51 

Rates of postage 194 

Rats and mice, to exterminate 67 

Rats, to drive away 67 

Rats, to stop up holes 67 

Rattlesnake bites, cure for 148 

Reception days, etiquette 179 

Reception for garden party 177 

Red pepper 12 

Refreshments for garden party 177 

Refrigerants, uses of 128 

Rehearsals, wedding 180 

Remington typewriter 189 

Renaissance lace 108 

Renaissance, braids to baste 109 

Renaissance, designs to transfer 108 

Renaissance, materials 108 

Renaissance, stitches 109 

Renaissance, to finish 109 

Renaissance embroidery 108 

Renovate black lace 94 

Renovate black silk 94 

Renovate crape 91 

Renovate old dress 94 

Renovate ribbons ,. 94 

Resin stains, to remove 70 

Rheumatic pains, to relieve 30 

Rheumatism, cures for 157 

Rheumatism, galbanum for 135 

Rhubarb, a fruit 13 

Rhubarb, a medicine 138 

Ribbons and sashes, care of 91 

Ribbons and their widths 89 

Ribbons, to renovate 94 

Ribbons, to wash 30 

Ribbons, velvet, linen, widths 90 

Ribbons, velvet, satin, widths 90 

Ribs, fracture of the 150 

Ribs of beef, to carve 47 

Rice, cereal 12 



Page 

Rice, to boil 30 

Rice, water i26 

Richelieu embroidery log 

Rickets, cure for 124 

Riding saddles, to clean 68 

Ring, to remove a tight 150 

Ringworm 124 

Ringworm, cure for 124 

Rising correctly 183 

Roaches, to rid of sg 

Roaches and water bugs 53 

Roasting, loss of meat by 22 

Roasting, time required for 22 

Rochelle salts 13a 

Room, how to dust a 67 

Room, how to sweep a 67 

Room, Invalid's, to clean 162 

Room plants 171 

Roots, properties of 15 

Roquefort cheese 49 

Rose, extract of gg 

Rose leaves, dried, sachet powder 86 

Rose leaves, medicinally 133 

Rose, sachet powder 86 

Rosewater 88 

Rosemary hair wash go 

Rosemary leaves for toilet gg 

Roses, care of 172 

Rough on rats, antidote for 146 

Rubber plant 173 

Rubber plant, care of 173 

Rubefacients, uses for 128 

Rubies, their care .._. 90 

Rug, to test a 67 

Rugs, light fur, to clean 67 

Rugs, to prevent curling 67 

Rugs, white skin, to clean 67 

Rules for finding interest 195 

Run-arounds, felons, etc 155 

Russian tea 50 

Rye, cereal 12 

S 

Sachet powders (see powder) 86 

Saddles, riding, to clean ,. 68 

Safe, meat, for kitchen 27 

Sage U 

Sage for gargle 141 

Sage leaves for the toilet 87 

Salad basket, to keep 27 

Salads, seasons for each month 7 

Sal ammoniac 138 

Salicylic acid 138 

Salivation, gargle for 141 

Sallowness, cause and remedy 158 

Salmon, to carve 47 

Salsify or oyster plant 17 

Salt, a condiment 12 

Salt and its uses 30 

Salt bags 118 

Salt baths 141 

Salt for butter 33 

Salt, lotion • 143. 



INDEX. 



243 



Page 

Salt, poisonous 42 

Salt, to keep fine 41 

Salt, to prevent caking 41 

Salts, Epsom 134 

Salts, Glauber's 135 

Salts, mecurial, antidote for 147 

Salts of lavender 87 

Salts of lead, antidote for 148 

Salts, Rochelle 138 

Salts, smelling, lavender 88 

Salutations, etiquette 176 

Salutations, handshaking 176 

Salutations, the how 176 

Salutations, the kiss 176 

Salve, pink for nails 82 

Salves, ointments, cerates 142 

Sal volatile 130 

Sal volatile, for hysterics 145 

Sarsaparilla 138 

Sarsaparilla decoction 143 

Sashes, care of 91 

Satin, black, greasy to clean 96 

Satin, shoes, white, to clean 94 

Sauce, Chill 46 

Sauce, Chutney 47 

Sauce, Espagnole or brown 24 

Sauce, to cook a 42 

Safucepans, burnt ,-. 36 

Saucepans, burnt, enameled 68 

Saucepans, care of 68 

Saucepans, copper, their care 27 

Saucepans, for cooking tomatoes 42 

Saucepans, iron, to clean 68 

Saucepans, to wash 68 

Savory 11 

Scald, a slight 149 

Scalds and burns 148 

Scale fish 36 

Scales, their use 27 

Scallion or chives 10 

Scallops, to embroider 108 

Scammony 139 

Scarletina 124 

Scent bags for perfuming 87 

Scent gloves, to 93 

Schottische, to dance 218 

Scissors, to choose 104 

Scorch mark on linen 98 

Screen for sick room 163 

Scrofula in children 125 

Scrofulous ulcerations, ointment for 143 

Scrubbing brushes, care of 55 

Scurvy, remedy for 30 

Sea bathing 211 

Sea bathing, bath 211 

Seabathing, swimming 211 

Sealing wax stains 70 

Seasonings 25 

Seasonings, condiments 11 

Seasons for each month's food 7 

Seasons for fresh fish 7 

Seasons for fruits 7 

Seasons for game 7 

Seasons for herbs 10 



Page 

Seasons for meats 7 

Seasons for poultry ^ 

Seasons for salads 7 

Seasons for shell fish 7 

Seasons for vegetables 7 

Sea voyage, hints for 196 

Sedatives, uses for 128 

Seeds, to gather 171 

Seeds, to sow 170 

Seeds, window garden to sow 170 

Seidlita powders 139 

Senna 139 

Senna, tea 144 

Serge, to wash 101 

Serge, to waterproof 97 

Servants, management of 190 

Serving sick person's meals 163 

Sewing (plain) 104 

Sewing, button holes 104 

Sewing, buttons to sew on 104 

Sewing, darning 105 

Sewing, feather stitching 105 

Sewing, gathers to stroke 105 

Sewing, hem stitching 105 

Sewing, herring boning 105 

Sewing, needles 104 

Sewing, ncedl* work suggestions 104 

Sewing, scissors 105 

Sewing, stitches 104 

Sewing, thimbles 104 

Sewing, whalebones to use 105 

Sewing machines 189 

Sewing machines, belt 1»0 

Sewing machines, cautions 190 

Sewing machines, general remarks 190 

Sewing machines, needle breaking 190 

Sewing machnies, oiling 189 

Sewing machines, tension 190 

Sewing machines, thread, lower 190 

Sewing machires, thread, upper 190 

Shallot 11 

Shampoo, a. home SO 

Shampoo, of egg yolk 29 

Sham.pooing mixture 80 

Shaving, cream 85 

Shaving, soap 6S 

Shawls, wool, to wash 101 

Sheets 73 

Shell cement 57 

Shell fish, crawfish 24 

Shell fish, lobsters 24 

Shell fish, oysters 25 

Shell fish, seasons for 7 

Shell fish, snails 25 

Shell fish, terrapin 25 

Shell fish, tortoise, to clean 71 

Shell fish, turtle, how to dress 25 

Sherry cobbler 50 

Sherry flip 50 

Shingles, treatment for 158 

Shirt, to iron 101 

Shirt, to iron the bosom 101 

Shirt, to finish 101 

Shirt, to polish 101 



244 



INDEX. 



Page 

Shirtwaists, ironing boards 103 

Shirt waists, irons 103 

Shirt waists, to iron 103 

Shirt waists, to iron collar and front 103 

Shirt waists, to polish cuffs 103 

Shirt waists, to starch 103 

Shirt waists, to wash 102 

Shirts and collars, to finish 101 

Shoes and boots, care of 94 

Shoes, brown, polish for 94 

Shoes, footwear nevers 94 

Shoes, French kid, care of 94 

Shoes, new, to make comfortable 94 

Shoes, rubber, to clean 95 

Shoes, (see boots) 94 

Shoes, tans, to blacken 95 

Shoes, to keep in order 94 

Shoes, to make last 94 

Shoes, white satin, to clean 94 

Short sight in children 120 

Shutters, green, to wash 68 

Shuttlecock tennis 201 

Shuttlecock, the game 201 

Shuttlecock, the outfit 207 

Sialogogues, uses for 128 

Sick room comforts 162 

Sieves, hair and wire, to clean 68 

Signs of the weather 195 

Silk, black, to renovate 94 

Silk, greasy, to clean 96 

Silk, embroidery, to wash 108 

Silk or woolen goods, grease on 96 

Silk, or woolen goods, stains on 96 

Silk, to clean 97 

Silk, to remove mud stains 96 

Silk, to restore color 96 

Silk, to wash handkerchiefs 100 

Silver, black spots on 68 

Silver, cleaning liquid 68 

Silver, Jewelry, its care 90 

Silver, spoons and forks, care of 68 

Silver, tarnished, to polish 68 

Silver, tea and milk pots, to keep 68 

Silver, to keep bright 68 

Silver, to keep from tarnishing 68 

Singing, art of 

Singing, breathing 

Singing, breath, to nurse 

Singing, expression 

Singing, position 

Singing, practising 

Singing, pronunciation 

Singing, public 

Singing, voice, tiring the 

Sinks, to clean 68 

Sinks, to clean, dirty 68 

Sinks, to keep clean 30 

Sinks, to remove odor from 30 

Sitting correctly 183 

Skating, Inside edge 213 

Skating, outside edge 211 

Skating, remarks 211 

Skating, to learn to 211 

Skewers, the'.r use 27 



Page 

Skim jams 43 

Skim meats 21 

Skimmer, its use 27 

Skin, baby's, to wash 117 

Skin, greasy. Its care 82 

Skin, greasy lotion 86 

Skin, moist, lotion 86 

Skin, oatmeal for the 83 

Skin, oily open pores, lotion 86 

Skin, peeling, for a 83 

Skin, relaxed 83 

Skin, roughened 83 

Skin, tanned 83 

Skin, to soften and smooth 30 

Skirt, care of the 96 

Skirts, to fold for packing 95 

Skull, fracture of the 150 

Sleep, children's 121 

Sleep, refreshing 164 

Sleep, time to 163 

Sleeping, over 163 

Sleeping, position for 164 

Sleeplessness 164 

Slippers, suede, to clean 92 

Slippers, white satin, to clean 94 

Slippery elm 139 

Slips, to plant 170 

Smelling salts, lavender 88 

Smoke for cut fingers 149 

Snails, remarks 25 

Snails, where they frequent 30 

Snake bites 148 

Snake, rattle, bites 148 

Soap bark for cleaning B3 

Soap, jelly 68 

Soap, shaving 68 

Soap, soft 69 

Scap suds for gardens 171 

Soap, use of 83 

Society or club by-laws, etc 194 

Socks, to wash 102 

Soda, carbonate of 132 

Soda, cocktail 60 

Soda, for cleansing 69 

Soda, for flowers 172 

Soda, poison, antidote for 146 

Soft soap 69 

Soil for potting 170 

Soot on carpets, to remove 80 

Soporifics, uses of 128 

Sore eyes 156 

Sore throat, gargle 158 

Sores, offensive, treatment 148 

Sorrel 17 

Soup, brown, to clarify 24 

Soup, drippings for frying 84 

Soup, make 23 

Soup, mutton 24 

Soup, species of » 24 

Soup, thickenings 26 

Spanish files 132 

Spatula for sick room 16S 

Speaking correctly 184 

Spelling correctly 186 



INDEX. 245 



Page 
Spiced pepper 26 

Spiced pepper, to make 41 

Spiced strawberries 45 

Spiced vinegar 47 

Spices 11 

Spices, mixed 11 

Spinach 17 

Spinal neuralgia or weakness 158 

Spine, cui-vature of 125 

Spirit varnish 72 

Spirits of camphor 132 

Spirits of salt, antidote for 146 

Splinters, treatment for 145 

Sponges, dirty, to cleanse 69 

Sponges, greasy to clean 69 

Sponges, to cleanse 30 

Sponges, to whiten 69 

Spoonfuls or spoonsful 42 

Spoons and forks, care of 42 

Sports and games 204 

Spots, to remove with egg 29 

Sprain, egg tor a l-SO 

Sprain, water jf or a 151 

Spray, for catarrh 153 

Spray, to use a 153 

Spring blood purifier 165 

Spring tonic 165 

Squabs, to carve 48 

Squash 17 

Squills 139 

Squinting children 123 

Stain, floor, dark brown 69 

Stain, oak 69 

Stain, walnut 69 

Stain, wood, a fine black 69 

Stained clothes, to bleach 98 

Stains 69 

Stains, from clothes 69 

SJtains, how to remove 95 

Stammering children 121 

Starch, baths , 141 

Starch, food 13 

Starch, linen, to 98 

Starch, to improve SO 

Steak, to broil 30 

Steel and nickel, to polish ..., 71 

Steel. baths 141 

Steel buckles, to clean 71 

Steel, to prevent rust 71 

Steel, to remove rust from 71 

Stenography 189 

Stenography, instructions 189 

Sterilized milk 40 

Sterilized milk, to administer 118 

Stilton cheese 49 

Stimulants, uses of. 128 

Sting of a bee 151 

Sting of a bee, to cure 30 

Sting of a bee, to cure 151 

Sting of insects 151 

Stings and their treatment 151 

Stitches in embroidery 106 

Stitches in needlework 104 

Stock and stockpot 23 



Stock fish ^^11 

Stock white 2< 

Stockings, black, to keep color 91 

Stockings, black, to prevent fading 97 

Stockings, care of gg 

Stockings, marking 97 

Stockings, to choose 97 

Stockings, to wash io2 

Stockings, to wash, black lisle 102 

Stomachics, uses of 128 

Stone raisins 4^^ 

Stone stains, from 70 

Stooping, to avoid 133 

Stoppers, to loosen 54 

Stores, kitchen 25 

Storing apples and pears 37 

Stoutness, to reduce leo 

Stove, gas, to manage 71 

Stove, gas, to black 71 

Stove, gas, to clean 71 

Strainers, their use 27 

Strawberry 14 

Strawberry cosmetic 34 

Strawberry ice cream 33 

Strawberries, spiced 45 

Straw bonnets 93 

Straw bonnets, to bleach 93 

Straw bonnets, to clean 93 

Straw hats, white, to clean 93 

String beans 17 

String beans, to bottle 46 

Strychnine, antidote for 148 

Stuffing for goose or duck 42 

Stye, cures for a 153 

Sublimate corrosive, antidote for 147 

Sudorifics, uses for 128 

Suet, to render 42 

Sugar 12 

Sugar, candy or thread 32 

Sugar, caramel 32 

Sugar, crackling 30 

Sugar, feathered 32 

Sugar, for cakes 32 

Sugar, for jams 42 

Sugar of lead 139 

Sugar of lead, antidote for 148 

Sugar of milk 139 

Sugar, souffle or large thread 32 

Sugar, to clarify for syrup 32 

Suggestions for sick room 162 

Sulphate of copper 131 

Sulphate of iron, deodorizer 133 

Sulphate of soda, 145 

Sulphate of zinc 13? 

Sulphate of zinc for poisons 139 

Sulphur 139 

Sulphur for curing fevers 155 

Sulphur for extinguishing fires 60 

Sulphur ointment 121? 

Sulphuric acid, antidote for 14S 

Sulphuric ether 134 

Sunburn, to prevent 83 

Sunburn or tan treatment 83 

Sunday school teaching 191 



246 



INDEX. 



Page 

Sunday school class, to manage 191 

Sunday school duties 191 

Sunday school lessons, to prepare 191 

Sunday school, order, to keep 191 

Sunlight, how to use 164 

Sunstroke, treatment for 145 

Swansdown, to clean 97 

Sweats, consumptive, to allay 30 

Sweep a room, how to 67 

Sweeping hints 67 

Sweet fruits 14 

Sweet oil stains 70 

Sweet peas, care of 173 

Sweet potatoes 17 

Sweet spirits of nitre 137 

Sweet spirits of nitric ether 134 

Swimming 211 

Swimming, breast 212 

Swimming, side 212 

Swimming, to float 211 

Swimming, to learn 211 

Swiss cheese 49 

Syrup, clarified for jellies 43 

Syrup, gum 51 

Syrup, onion 165 

Syrups, clarified honey for 32 

T 

Table, bed for sick room 162 

Table etiquette 178 

Table for jam making 43 

Table, ironing 98 

Table, kitchen, to cleanse 29 

Table, kitchen, to select 27 

Table, mahogany, white marks 64 

Table, to remove marks 71 

Table, to remove hot dish marks 65 

Tablecloths 74 

Tablecloths, to Iron 102 

Table linen, to wash 102 

Table napkins, their use 179 

Table napkins, to iron 102 

Table napkins, to wash 102 

Tamarind drink 143 

Tammy cloths, to wash B8 

Tannic acid 139 

Tansy 11 

Tapestry or canvas embroidery 107 

Tapestry stitches 107 

Tapestry, to clean 71 

Tar stains 70 

Tar and pitch stains 70 

Tarragon 11 

Tartar emetic 130 

Tartar emetic, antidote for 148 

Tartaric acid 139 

Tarts, sugar in 42 

Tarts, to cook fruit 42 

Taste of medicines, to prevent 161 

Tatting 116 

Tatting shuttles 116 

Tatting stitches 116 

Tea 49 

Tea, beet 164 



Page 

Teacup, fortune telling 199 

Tea, dandelion 144 

Tea, discoloration by 30 

Tea, for plants 171 

Tea, goosegrass 144 

Tea kettle, to clean 71 

Tea kettle, to keep 71 

Tea, linseed 144 

Teapot, to keep clean 71 

Teapot, to keep, silver 68 

Tea, Russian 60 

Tea, senna 144 

Tea stains on clothes 96 

Tea stains on table linen 102 

Tea stains on white dresses 95 

Tea, time, for drawing 50 

Tea, to make 49 

Tea, white oak 144 

Teaching Sunday school 191 

Teal, to carve 48 

Teas, afternoon 179 

Teas, medicinal 143 

Teeth, care of children's 121 

Teeth, children's 121 

Teeth, dental hints 158 

Teeth, false 84 

Teeth, remarks on 83 

Teeth, to dislodge food from 158 

Teething, children 121 

Telegraphy, signs used 189 

Temperature for serving wines 61 

Tennis, Badminton 207 

Tennis, lawn 206 

Tennis, ping-pong 205 

Tennis, shuttlecock 207 

Terms, French social # 175 

Terms, French, denote action of medicines 127 

Terms, French, to describe dances 219 

Terrapin 25 

Test for pure water 160 

Theatre parties, etiquette of 179 

Thermometers 195 

Thickenings for soups 26 

Thimbles, to choose 104 

Thorn apple, antidote for... 146 

Throat, gargle for inflamed 141 

Throat, salt for sore 80 

Throat, sore, children's 122 

Throat, sore, chlorate of potash for 141 

Throat, sore, gargle 168 

Throat, sore, gargle for 141 

Throat, sore, peroxide for 138 

Throat trouble and hoarseness 168 

Throats, children's 128 

Throats, delicate US 

Thrush, cure for US 

Thumb sucking children I2S 

Thyme • 11 

Thyme condiment U 

Ties, colored, to wash 101 

Ties, silk, to wash lOt 

Ties, white silk, to wash 101 

Time for cooking game 2S 

Time required for boiling meats IS 



INDEX. 



247 



Page 

Time required for broiling meats 22 

Time required tor cooking lish S4 

Time required for roasting meats 22 

Tincture of arnica 130 

Tin baths, to clean 53 

Tins for cakes 32 

Tins, to scour 72 

Toadstools, to distinguish 40 

Tobacco, antidote for 148 

Toenails, children's 122 

Toenails, ingrowing 158 

Toilet hints 75 

Toilet powder 87 

Toilet vinegar 87 

Toilet wash 87 

Tolu 139 

Tomato catsup 47 

Tomatoes 17 

Tomatoes, to can 47 

Tomatoes, to cook 42 

Tomatoes, whole, to can 47 

Tongue, a disordered 158 

Tongue, ham, beef, to boil 37 

Tonic, egg for a 29 

Tonic, spring 165 

Tonic, spring 165 

Tonics, uses for 128 

Tonsils, gargle for 141 

Toothache, cure for 84 

Toothache, treatment 158 

Tooth brushes 84 

Tooth powder 84 

Tooth powder, simple 84, 

Tooth, ulcerated 159 

Tortoise shell, to polish 71 

Towels 74 

Trace patterns 106 

Tracing network 114 

Tracing paper 106 

Tragaeanth 139 

Trousers, care of men's 91 

Truffles 17 

Trunk, to pack a 95 

Trunks, leather, to clean 64 

Tuberose and lilies, perfume 86 

Tunisian crochet HI 

Turkey, to carve 48 

Turkey, to choose 18 

Turkey, to draw and prepare 18 

Turning correctly 183 

Turnips 18 

Turnips, to cook 42 

Turpentine, enema 142 

Turpentine for china painting 201 

Turpentine for cuts and wounds 149 

Turpentine liniment 142 

Turpentine, medicinally 139 

Turpentine, oil of 137 

Turquoises, care of 90 

Turtle, to dress 25 

Tweed to waterproof 97 

Two-step, dance 219 

Typewriter, Caligraph 189 

Typewriter, Remington 189 



U 

Ulcerated mouth 157 

Ulcerated tooth 159 

Umbrellas, their care 97 

Underclothing, care of 91 

Unmolded Jellies 39 

Upholstery, grease spots on 67 

Ushers for weddings 180 

Utensils for kitchen use 26 

Utensils for preserves , 44 

V 

Valerian 139 

Vanilla 12 

Vanilla ice cream 38 

Vapor baths 141 

Varicose veins, treatment 145 

Varnish, brushes, care of 55 

Varnish, common 72 

Varnish for furniture 72 

Varnish for patent leather 64 

Varnish for white paint 72 

Varnish, furniture, to 72 

Varnish mastic 72 

Varnish spirits 72 

Varnish, stains 70 

Varnish stains on hands 70 

Varnish stains, to remove 70 

Varnish, white marks on 72 

Vaseline 139 

Vaseline stains from clothes 95 

Veal, to carve 48 

Veal, to choose 20 

Vegetables 16 

Vegetables, cooking 42 

Vegetables, farinaceous 16 

Vegetables, frosted 42 

Vegetables, plants 16 

Vegetables, properties of 15 

Vegetables, seasons for 7 

Vegetables stains, to remove 42 

Vegetables, to boil 42 

Vegetables, winter 16 

Veils, care of 97 

Veils, to put away 91 

Vellum, to clean 72 

Velvet, care of 97 

Velvet ribbons, cotton, widths 90 

Velvet ribbons, satin, widths 90 

Velvet, to clean 97 

Velvet, to raise pile on 97 

Venetian blinds, to clean 64 

Venetian, emtlroidery ,.......,, 108 

Venison, to choose 20 

Ventilation of the nursery 117 

Verbena sachet powder 86 

Verdigris, antidote for 147 

Vesclcants, uses for 128 

Vinegar 12 

Vinegar, aromatic for asphyxia 145 

Vinegar, cold for pickling 45 

Vinegar for pickling 45 

Vinegar, hot for pickling 45 



248 



INDEX. 



Page 
. 42 



Vinegar, its uses for meat, etc 

"Vinegar lotion 

Vinegar picliles 

Vinegar, spiced 

Vinegar, toilet 

Violet leaves for cancer 

Violet sachet powder 

Violet sachet powder, simple — 

Violets, to keep fresh 

Violets, to sow 

Violin to clean 

Violin bows, to clean 

Visiting cards, etiquette on 

Visiting the sick, precautions 163 

Vitriol, blue, antidote for.. 

Vitriol, oil of 

Vitriol, white 

Vocabulary of French terms 

Voice, culture of the 

Vomiting, to allay 

W 

Waists and blouses, to pack 96 

Waists, shirts, to wash 102 

Walk well, to 

Wall, to make damp proof 

Wall paper, to 

Wall or ceiling, to measure 



183 
72 
73 
196 

Wall paper, stained, to clean 72 

Wall paper, stains on 71 

Wall paper, to clean 72 

Wall paper, to remove 73 

Walls, broken, to repair 72 

Walls damp, for painting 65 

Walnut stain 69 

Waits, to dance 218 

Warts, cure for 159 

Warts, simple remedies; 159 

Wash clothes 98 

Wash for dandruff 86 

Wash for fair hair 79 

Wash for mouth 157 

Wash rosemary, hair 80 

Wash, toilet 87 

Washes and lotions 142 

Washes for mouth, use of 81 

Water as a disinfectant 160 

Water barley 126 

Water, barley, honeyed 164 

Water bottles, stained 54 

Water cans, care of 7S 

Water cold, tonic properties 160 

Water color paints 200 

Water cure, Knelpp 159 

Water disinfectant 160 

Water gum, for stiffening 99 

Water, hard 84 

Water, hard to soften 73 

Water, hot as a beverage 160 

Water ice, to use 84 

Water ices 88 

Water, lavender 88 

Water, lime uses of 136 



Page 

Water plants, to 171 

Water purified by aluml 129 

Water, rice 126 

Water, rose 88 

Water softener 84 

Water softener, milk as a 73 

Water test 160 

Water, to boll quicker 30 

Water, to keep pure 161 

Water, to soften 73 

Watercress 18 

Watermelon 14 

Watermelon preserve 45 

Waterproof boots, to 94 

Waterproof cloak, to clean 97 

Waterproof serge and tweed, to 97 

Watery fruits 14 

Weariness, to relieve 84 

Weather, signs of the 195 

Wedding anniversaries 180 

Wedding breakfast 180 

Wedding, church etiquette 180 

Wedding gifts 180 

V/edding gifts, hints for 180 

Wedding rehearsals 180 

Wedding ushers 180 

Weeds, to eradicate 171 

Weight of a healthy child 126 

Weight, loss of in meats 22 

Weights and measures, kitchen 27 

Weights, apothecaries 162 

Weights, avoirdupois 163 

Weights book, for sick room 163 

Weights for medicines 161 

Weights of meats for 3 persons 23 

Whalebone, to straighten 105 

Whalebones, to use 105 

Wheat 12 

Whiskey cocktail BO 

Whisks, their uses 27 

Whist- bridge (see bridge whist) 216 

Whist, card game 215 

White embroidery 108 

White oak tea 144 

White stock 24 

White vitriol 13» 

Whiten a fowl, to S5 

Whiten clothes 98 

Whiten clothes without bleaching N 

Whitewash, a good 73 

Whitewash stains, to remo've 71 

Whitewash, to thicken 81 

Whitlows, felons, etc 155 

Whooping-cough remedy 125 

Wicker furniture, to clean 7S 

Wicker work, to clean 80 

Wicks, lamp to keep 63 

Widgeon, to carve 48 

Wild ducks 18 

Wild ducks, to carve 48 

Will, division of property IM 

Will, simple forms for a 19S* 

Will, to make 1»8 

Wills, rules for drawing a 19S 



INDEX. 



249 



WindoTifs, glass to make shine 73 

'Windows, to clean 73 

Windows, to clean with newspaper 65 

Windows, to prevent frosty 73 

Wine, hlackberry 51 

Wine cellar S2 

Wine, currant 51 

Wine, in cooking 42 

Wine, mulled 51 

Wine stains 71 

Wine stains on table-linen 102 

Wines 50 

Wines, decanted 61 

Wines, glasses for serving 51 

Wines, medicinal to filter 140 

Wines, temperature for serving 51 

Winter foods 165 

Winter herbs 10 

Winter vegetables 16 

Wintergreen 140 

Wire sieves, to clean 68 

Witch hazel 140 

Wolf's bane, antidote for 146 

Women's clothes, care of 90 

Wood, a fine black stain for 69 



Page 

Wood, substitute for kindling 41 

Wood, to make durable 73 

Woodcock, to carve ig 

Wounds, (small) children's 122 

Wounds In the eye 155 

Wounds, poultice for 143 

Wounds, turpentine for fresh 149 

Wrinkles, to prevent g4 

Wrinkles, to take from clothos 98 

Wrinkles under eyes 76 

Y 

Yeast, home made 31 

Yeast, hop 31 

Yeast, potato 31 

Yeast, to keep 31 

Yorke, a dance 219 

Z 

Zinc, acetate of , , 129 

Zinc, chlorate of 133 

Zinc, oxide of i3g 

Zinc, sulphate of 139 

Zinc bath tub, to clean 53 

Zinc bath tub, to remove grease 53 



MEMORANDA. 



MEMORANDA. 



MEMORANDA. 



MEMORANDA. 



MEMORANDA, 



MEMORANDA. 



MEMORANDA. 



MEMORANDA. 



MEMORANDA. 



MEMORANDA. 



MEMORANDA. 



MEMORANDA. 



MEMORANDA. 



MEMORANDA. 



MEMORANDA. 



MEMORANDA. 



MEMORANDA. 



MEMORANDA. 



MEMORANDA. 



MEMORANDA. 



